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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Oct. 2, 1910)
n THE OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: OCTOBER 2, 1010, 3 mK6Sr$n alPf mmmm ITST ey AND ""IMr . & . F.ach season brings out two distinct hat types ; the general utility or street hat in tailored style, arriving first ; and later on the large picture hat which is reserved for theater, bridge ani other Special wear. The first hat may or may not b; small in shape, but its style is always rather severe, and smartness rather than prettiness is the ideal. This is quite natural at a season when the eye is tired of the fluffy, and now rather flimsy effects of summertime; and Fall trim mings of folded silks and velvets smart wings, quills and the like, seem to have an especially brisk and ready-for-Au-tumn suggestion that is very pie-sing. Drooping plumes are rarely seen on these first street hats; and flowers though by January one is glad to see the charming things again in early Fall are certainly unJcr the ban of Fashion's temporary displeasure. This Fall there is a touch of Orientalism in the new millinery, which was to be expected af ter the furore for all effects of this kind during the late Spring and Sum mer in Paris. The touch of red is ev erywhere, and Persian silks and velvets, gorgeous deep-toned scarves of crepe de chine in Oriental colors subdued by French taste, and ribbons in marvelous new color effects are shown both on the hats and in the trimming depart ments. Ribbon-trimmed Hats Galore. Riblions! It is a word to conjure with now. Never were, such ribbons woven before, and surely never were ribbons so much used in hat trimmings. In Paris they are using ribbons like feathers; that is, the loops are soft and droop with the grace of plumage, rather than standing stiffly out over invisible wires. Sometimes one huge, soft bow of ribbon forms the entire hat trimming, and this bow, it seems, may be placed where fancy dictates; either directly across the back, a little to one side of the front, or on one side or other of the hat, whichever best suits the flow of the lines. The Line's the Thing. .This question of lines is most impor tant the milliners will tell you, and 'is what makes the French creation of sim ple felt with a bit of ribbon cost over a hundred dollars, a price that often grieves and astonishes the woman who knows she could contrive for twenty dollars at home a hat combining ostrich feathers, flowers and lace. The exquis ite proportion of lines is what makes the French hat beautiful and this per fect proportion of lines is by no means easy to accomplish. The simpler the hat, the more difficult it is to make smart and becoming from every angle of vision and by this test every hat must be judged, if it is to be a success. Long, sharp quills and wings that are so slender as to be almost quills, are also seen on the first hats, and even these feather trimmings come in the multi-colored Oriental effects. Ostrich plumes in shades of Persian colorings are wonderfully beautiful and these gor geous feathers will be used on the large picture hats of the Winter, in wreath effect; that is, used continuously all around the hat, with one graceful plume standing at the side, near the back. But to return to the smart utility hats for first wear, which, of course, are foremost in consideration just now ; in addition to the sharp Mephistophelian quills that point backward saucily over the shoulder, there are big rosettes made of bias folds of velvet and of ribbon, gathered closely and turned round and round in cabochon effect. Two of these big rosettes are placed back to back, and the effect is that of a big pompon. The Pompon Again. Did one say pompons? They are in deed a feature of Fall hat trimmings. Soft, velvety looking pompons of silk that look like nothing at all when you buy them, wrapped in little rolls of paper, but which shake out to splendid big, fluffy balls of roundness, and are, withal, as light as thistledown. Two pompons are absolutely necessary and sometimes three and even four are crushed together. A clever little black felt turban in the new bowl shape, with a wide brim rolled back close to the crown all around, have a broad band of black satin ribbon arou.id the crown and at the left side, nearer the back than the front, two black, and one white pompons. Another TjowI hat, with a top of Persian silk and a straight band of deep claret red velvet around the brim, has three pompoons in shades of red according with the colors in the Per sian patterns. F. M. SCHADELL & COMPANY 1522 DOUGLAS STREET We are showing exclu sive styles in Street and Dress Hats from $5.00 to $25.00. F. M. Schadell & Co. Draped Effects Good. The draped top hats; with brims of felt and crowns entirely covered with swathed folds of satin or Oriental silk, are made very smart by the sharply painted quills in plain color when the drapery over the crown is of figured silk, and in multi-color when the crown is of plain silk. When a patterned silk or ribbon trimming is used, some note of strong, dark color is needed to give significance and emphasis or the result will be over-gaudy and tiresome. Hats in plain colors may be brightened and smartened . by a touch of the Persian stuffs, either in rosette, drape J crown, or the handsome pigeon quills. Drooping Brims Fit Small Hats Closely Over the Hair. Of the small hats, the round high bowl shape vies in popular favor with what is called the "nicked mushroom.'' This shape has a high crown and a very slanting brim, fitting the hair close ly all around; but at one side of the front the brim bends sharply down and out again, forming a curious indentation at the edge of the hat The bowl shape, also fits snugly over the hair, and very little of the back of the neck or the ears is visible under these new "turban" shapes, as they are called. The effect of these hats is saucy, audacious, piquant, and very chic when the veil is smartly adjusted and other dross accesories are correct But the woman who loves a picture effect will choose ne of the low crowned sailor shapes with a conven tional brim that droops for three inches and then rolls up to form a little rim around the edge of the hat. These low crowned, wide-brimmed hats are all the rage in Paris, and the trimmings for gen eral street wear, are most simple; usually big soft ribbon bowa at one side of the front, or directly at the back, and placed high on the crown. The large hat trimmed at the back is feminine and dignified, while the pert little turban with trimming falling off at tb back is somehow or other always a we bit wicked In suggestion, but at the back many of the hat trimmings are, and there they seem likely to stay for the winter. For Strictly Dress Ocasions. Though midwinter styles are tar from bealng established at this early date, some very beautiful models have been arriving from 1'aris, ready for theater and bridge wear, and for the October weddings. These large hats are rather conventional In shape, with brims slightly drooping, and often showing the little upward curve around the edge which Is particularly becoming and youthful in style. Covered models are smarter than felt for dress wear and sometimes the crowns and brims are covered differently, though usually the under side of the brim Is faced with dark velvet. Chan tllly lace laid over plain colored satin will be much used for dressy evening hats and there are graceful models made of malines Bhlrred on cards over gay Oriental silks. The hat colors for fall are wonder ful. No crude, elementary colors, but marvelous color blendings; every shade of brown from pain tllleul a delicate mustard yellow, to rkhest bronse; green ish blue with which dark leaf green is combined, and soft grayish violets with which blue seems to blend perfectly. The draping of black lace over bright colors produces the veiled effects which aie called in Farts "trlste" and are sub tle and mysterious; and the ostrich and willow plumes In shades -of these colors aro wundrously beautiful, sometimes five or six colorings being shown In a single feather. Split ostrich quills, there are, also, with half the quill a regulation short clipped quill, and the other half a drooping willow feather. These are placed along one side of the hat, the feather portion drooping over the brim. Lace rosettes will take the place of the big velvet and ribbon rosettes on evening hats. These rosettes are made by sewing yards and yards of two-inch val edging around a disc of net; and when two of the rosettes; are placed hack to back, the fluffy luce ball thus formed is very pretty. The shepherdess hat promises to he a fad of the winter. Tills hat hus a broad, low crown and a wide brim which droops at back and front. Of course," the bona fldo shepherdess stylo Is trimmed only with a band of velvet and two long rib bon ends, and perhaps a big rose tucked under the brim; but the 1910 shepherdess) hat will hove a feather wreath, or a shirred crown of lnre over silk and a big rosvtta or fabric rose at one side. branch nemo Factory STUTTGART, GERMANY FOR THE EUROPEAN CONTINENT Branch Nemo Factory BRISTOL, ENGLAND For the British Empire VoL 1 NEW YORK, OCTOBER 2, 1910 No. 3 "SLENDER NEMOS Stout Women No Longer Monopolize the Nemo Hygienic Service Many women still think that all Nemoa are for stout figures. No doubt some dealers encourage this erroneous belief, because they like to sell goods that sell easiest and Nemo Self-Reducing Corsets practi cally sell themselves, the world over. The truth is that the "slender" Nemos do just as much for women of slight build as the more famous Self-Reducing Corsets do for their stout sisters same hygienic excel lence, same comfort with perfect style, same unequaled durability. Your dealer will show you the "slender" Nemos, if you insist. Nemos the World's Standard (Xew Tork Pre$$, Mar. 13, IV JO.) This American product the Nemo Corset is worn in every part of the world where women wear corsets. Lastikops Corset No. 33Q Most Stylish and Comfortable Corset Ever Made for Slender Figures Nemo No. 330 is not merely an improvement it's an actual revolu tion in corset making. Such a corset could never have been made before we invented our new "Lastikops Webbing" andean never be made without it It is a beau tiful model, with long, lines that give a slight form the acme of slender grace. And it's healthful and comfortable , for those two bands of semi elastic Lasti kops Webbing perfectly sup port the inter n a 1 org an s, completely pre vent that cramped, bearing-down feel ing, and insure absolute hygienic safety, no matter how tightly you lace. No slender woman who has oncv been fitted in a Nemo No. 330 will ever willingly wear any other corset. Fine white coutil, sizes 18 to 26; Lastikops hose supporters $3.00. ;.oo cAs& N'330 Lastikops Nemo "Relief Bands" COMFORT FOR STOUT WOMEN In Self-Reducing Corsets I C An ft Nes. 403 and 405 tuu . Some stout women do not need the extreme support of the Lastikops Bandlet; therefore, thousands are perfectly satisfied with Nemos made with Nemo Relief Bands, which is the next best reducing device. Lfl.( tin ,VNe Vi NMQ5 5elf-Reducind RELIEF BANDS No. 405, for tall stout figures, has high bust and a long 6kirt that ccmes well around to the front and reduces hips and upper limbs. The Relief Bands follow the curve of the lower abdomen, giving firm support from underneath. Fine white ccutil, sizes 20 to 36 $4.00. No. 403 is a similar model, but with lower bust and under arm, for short-waisted stout women $4.00. No Substitute for Nemos The wonderful comfort of Nemo Corsets is due to the Nemo patented inventions which, of course, cannot be used in any other comets. LAST1K0PSBANDLET Greatest of all Inventions for Figure Reduction end Control The illustration below shows the construction of the semi-elastic Lastikops Bandlet; also its position in the corset, and that comfortable supporting curve, which cannot be produced by any other fabric, and which insures the highest degree of fashionable slendernesa. The Bandlet trives bsltcr suvnort 'than the best separate abdominal band you can buy at any price; self adjusting, can't slipeout of place; overcomes all dangers of tight lacing. Used only in Nemo Self-Reducing Corsets Nos. 522 and 623, at-$5.00. Lastikops Hose Supporters Every Nemo Corset (except the few $2.00 models) is finished with Lastikops Hose Supporters, guaran teed to outwear any corset. Self-Reducing No. 320 Best reduc ing corset made at the price. For tall or me dium 8 tout fig ures. Long skirt gr e at reduction, and perfect ease. Worn also by many slender vomen who need support. Sizes 10 to 36 $3.00. .oo , " Is a similar Ml Mb, model, but hnon-waistwl women $3.00. Sold In Good Storaa Evorywhar KOPS BROS., M.uuf.ctur.,.. Now Yorfi a J