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THE OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: OCTOBER 2, 1010,
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F.ach season brings out two distinct
hat types ; the general utility or street
hat in tailored style, arriving first ; and
later on the large picture hat which is
reserved for theater, bridge ani other
Special wear.
The first hat may or may not b;
small in shape, but its style is always
rather severe, and smartness rather than
prettiness is the ideal. This is quite
natural at a season when the eye is tired
of the fluffy, and now rather flimsy
effects of summertime; and Fall trim
mings of folded silks and velvets smart
wings, quills and the like, seem to have
an especially brisk and ready-for-Au-tumn
suggestion that is very pie-sing.
Drooping plumes are rarely seen on
these first street hats; and flowers
though by January one is glad to see
the charming things again in early Fall
are certainly unJcr the ban of Fashion's
temporary displeasure. This Fall there
is a touch of Orientalism in the new
millinery, which was to be expected af
ter the furore for all effects of this
kind during the late Spring and Sum
mer in Paris. The touch of red is ev
erywhere, and Persian silks and velvets,
gorgeous deep-toned scarves of crepe
de chine in Oriental colors subdued by
French taste, and ribbons in marvelous
new color effects are shown both on
the hats and in the trimming depart
ments. Ribbon-trimmed Hats Galore.
Riblions! It is a word to conjure
with now. Never were, such ribbons
woven before, and surely never were
ribbons so much used in hat trimmings.
In Paris they are using ribbons like
feathers; that is, the loops are soft and
droop with the grace of plumage, rather
than standing stiffly out over invisible
wires. Sometimes one huge, soft bow
of ribbon forms the entire hat trimming,
and this bow, it seems, may be placed
where fancy dictates; either directly
across the back, a little to one side of
the front, or on one side or other of
the hat, whichever best suits the flow
of the lines.
The Line's the Thing.
.This question of lines is most impor
tant the milliners will tell you, and 'is
what makes the French creation of sim
ple felt with a bit of ribbon cost over
a hundred dollars, a price that often
grieves and astonishes the woman who
knows she could contrive for twenty
dollars at home a hat combining ostrich
feathers, flowers and lace. The exquis
ite proportion of lines is what makes
the French hat beautiful and this per
fect proportion of lines is by no means
easy to accomplish. The simpler the
hat, the more difficult it is to make
smart and becoming from every angle
of vision and by this test every hat
must be judged, if it is to be a success.
Long, sharp quills and wings that are
so slender as to be almost quills, are
also seen on the first hats, and even
these feather trimmings come in the
multi-colored Oriental effects. Ostrich
plumes in shades of Persian colorings
are wonderfully beautiful and these gor
geous feathers will be used on the large
picture hats of the Winter, in wreath
effect; that is, used continuously all
around the hat, with one graceful
plume standing at the side, near the back.
But to return to the smart utility hats
for first wear, which, of course, are
foremost in consideration just now ; in
addition to the sharp Mephistophelian
quills that point backward saucily over
the shoulder, there are big rosettes made
of bias folds of velvet and of ribbon,
gathered closely and turned round and
round in cabochon effect. Two of these
big rosettes are placed back to back, and
the effect is that of a big pompon.
The Pompon Again.
Did one say pompons? They are in
deed a feature of Fall hat trimmings.
Soft, velvety looking pompons of silk
that look like nothing at all when you
buy them, wrapped in little rolls of
paper, but which shake out to splendid
big, fluffy balls of roundness, and are,
withal, as light as thistledown. Two
pompons are absolutely necessary and
sometimes three and even four are
crushed together. A clever little black
felt turban in the new bowl shape, with
a wide brim rolled back close to the
crown all around, have a broad band
of black satin ribbon arou.id the crown
and at the left side, nearer the back
than the front, two black, and one white
pompons. Another TjowI hat, with a top
of Persian silk and a straight band of
deep claret red velvet around the brim,
has three pompoons in shades of red
according with the colors in the Per
sian patterns.
F. M. SCHADELL
& COMPANY
1522 DOUGLAS STREET
We are showing exclu
sive styles in Street and
Dress Hats from $5.00
to $25.00.
F. M. Schadell & Co.
Draped Effects Good.
The draped top hats; with brims of
felt and crowns entirely covered with
swathed folds of satin or Oriental silk,
are made very smart by the sharply
painted quills in plain color when the
drapery over the crown is of figured
silk, and in multi-color when the crown
is of plain silk. When a patterned silk
or ribbon trimming is used, some note
of strong, dark color is needed to give
significance and emphasis or the result
will be over-gaudy and tiresome. Hats
in plain colors may be brightened and
smartened . by a touch of the Persian
stuffs, either in rosette, drape J crown, or
the handsome pigeon quills.
Drooping Brims Fit Small Hats
Closely Over the Hair.
Of the small hats, the round high
bowl shape vies in popular favor with
what is called the "nicked mushroom.''
This shape has a high crown and a
very slanting brim, fitting the hair close
ly all around; but at one side of the
front the brim bends sharply down and
out again, forming a curious indentation
at the edge of the hat The bowl shape,
also fits snugly over the hair, and very
little of the back of the neck or the ears
is visible under these new "turban"
shapes, as they are called. The effect
of these hats is saucy, audacious, piquant,
and very chic when the veil is smartly
adjusted and other dross accesories are
correct But the woman who loves a
picture effect will choose ne of the low
crowned sailor shapes with a conven
tional brim that droops for three inches
and then rolls up to form a little rim
around the edge of the hat. These low
crowned, wide-brimmed hats are all the
rage in Paris, and the trimmings for gen
eral street wear, are most simple; usually
big soft ribbon bowa at one side of the
front, or directly at the back, and placed
high on the crown.
The large hat trimmed at the back is
feminine and dignified, while the pert
little turban with trimming falling off
at tb back is somehow or other always
a we bit wicked In suggestion, but at the
back many of the hat trimmings are, and
there they seem likely to stay for the
winter.
For Strictly Dress Ocasions.
Though midwinter styles are tar from
bealng established at this early date,
some very beautiful models have been
arriving from 1'aris, ready for theater
and bridge wear, and for the October
weddings. These large hats are rather
conventional In shape, with brims slightly
drooping, and often showing the little
upward curve around the edge which Is
particularly becoming and youthful in
style. Covered models are smarter than
felt for dress wear and sometimes the
crowns and brims are covered differently,
though usually the under side of the
brim Is faced with dark velvet. Chan
tllly lace laid over plain colored satin
will be much used for dressy evening
hats and there are graceful models made
of malines Bhlrred on cards over gay
Oriental silks.
The hat colors for fall are wonder
ful. No crude, elementary colors, but
marvelous color blendings; every shade
of brown from pain tllleul a delicate
mustard yellow, to rkhest bronse; green
ish blue with which dark leaf green is
combined, and soft grayish violets with
which blue seems to blend perfectly.
The draping of black lace over bright
colors produces the veiled effects which
aie called in Farts "trlste" and are sub
tle and mysterious; and the ostrich and
willow plumes In shades -of these colors
aro wundrously beautiful, sometimes five
or six colorings being shown In a single
feather. Split ostrich quills, there are,
also, with half the quill a regulation
short clipped quill, and the other half a
drooping willow feather. These are placed
along one side of the hat, the feather
portion drooping over the brim.
Lace rosettes will take the place of the
big velvet and ribbon rosettes on evening
hats. These rosettes are made by sewing
yards and yards of two-inch val edging
around a disc of net; and when two of
the rosettes; are placed hack to back, the
fluffy luce ball thus formed is very
pretty.
The shepherdess hat promises to he a
fad of the winter. Tills hat hus a broad,
low crown and a wide brim which droops
at back and front. Of course," the bona
fldo shepherdess stylo Is trimmed only
with a band of velvet and two long rib
bon ends, and perhaps a big rose tucked
under the brim; but the 1910 shepherdess)
hat will hove a feather wreath, or a
shirred crown of lnre over silk and a big
rosvtta or fabric rose at one side.
branch nemo Factory
STUTTGART, GERMANY
FOR THE EUROPEAN CONTINENT
Branch Nemo Factory
BRISTOL, ENGLAND
For the British Empire
VoL 1
NEW YORK, OCTOBER 2, 1910
No. 3
"SLENDER NEMOS
Stout Women No Longer Monopolize
the Nemo Hygienic Service
Many women still think that all
Nemoa are for stout figures. No
doubt some dealers encourage this
erroneous belief, because they like
to sell goods that sell easiest and
Nemo Self-Reducing Corsets practi
cally sell themselves, the world over.
The truth is that the "slender"
Nemos do just as much for women
of slight build as the more famous
Self-Reducing Corsets do for their
stout sisters same hygienic excel
lence, same comfort with perfect
style, same unequaled durability.
Your dealer will show you the
"slender" Nemos, if you insist.
Nemos the World's Standard
(Xew Tork Pre$$, Mar. 13, IV JO.)
This American product the Nemo
Corset is worn in every part of the
world where women wear corsets.
Lastikops Corset No. 33Q
Most Stylish and Comfortable Corset
Ever Made for Slender Figures
Nemo No. 330 is not merely an
improvement it's an actual revolu
tion in corset making.
Such a corset could never have
been made before we invented our
new "Lastikops Webbing" andean
never be made without it
It is a beau
tiful model,
with long, lines
that give a
slight form the
acme of slender
grace.
And it's
healthful and
comfortable ,
for those two
bands of semi
elastic Lasti
kops Webbing
perfectly sup
port the inter
n a 1 org an s,
completely pre
vent that
cramped, bearing-down
feel
ing, and insure absolute hygienic
safety, no matter how tightly you lace.
No slender woman who has oncv
been fitted in a Nemo No. 330 will
ever willingly wear any other corset.
Fine white coutil, sizes 18 to 26;
Lastikops hose supporters $3.00.
;.oo
cAs& N'330
Lastikops
Nemo "Relief Bands"
COMFORT FOR STOUT WOMEN
In Self-Reducing Corsets I C An ft
Nes. 403 and 405 tuu
. Some stout women do not need the
extreme support of the Lastikops
Bandlet; therefore, thousands are
perfectly satisfied with Nemos made
with Nemo Relief Bands, which is
the next best reducing device.
Lfl.( tin ,VNe Vi
NMQ5
5elf-Reducind
RELIEF BANDS
No. 405, for tall stout figures, has
high bust and a long 6kirt that ccmes
well around to the front and reduces
hips and upper limbs. The Relief
Bands follow the curve of the lower
abdomen, giving firm support from
underneath. Fine white ccutil, sizes
20 to 36 $4.00.
No. 403 is a similar model, but
with lower bust and under arm, for
short-waisted stout women $4.00.
No Substitute for Nemos
The wonderful comfort of Nemo
Corsets is due to the Nemo patented
inventions which, of course, cannot
be used in any other comets.
LAST1K0PSBANDLET
Greatest of all Inventions for Figure
Reduction end Control
The illustration below shows the
construction of the semi-elastic
Lastikops Bandlet; also its position
in the corset, and that comfortable
supporting curve, which cannot be
produced by any other fabric, and
which insures the highest degree of
fashionable slendernesa.
The Bandlet trives bsltcr suvnort
'than the best separate abdominal
band you can buy at any price; self
adjusting, can't slipeout of place;
overcomes all dangers of tight lacing.
Used only in Nemo Self-Reducing
Corsets Nos. 522 and 623, at-$5.00.
Lastikops Hose Supporters
Every Nemo Corset (except the
few $2.00 models) is finished with
Lastikops Hose Supporters, guaran
teed to outwear any corset.
Self-Reducing No. 320
Best reduc
ing corset made
at the price.
For tall or me
dium 8 tout fig
ures. Long
skirt gr e at
reduction, and
perfect ease.
Worn also by
many slender
vomen who
need support.
Sizes 10 to 36
$3.00.
.oo ,
" Is a similar
Ml Mb, model, but
hnon-waistwl women $3.00.
Sold In Good Storaa Evorywhar
KOPS BROS., M.uuf.ctur.,.. Now Yorfi
a
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