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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 27, 1903)
What is Going On in Woman's World of Fashion I.- 1 ' Villtr U....I 'tfL f l. I...I1..A N and beaux of ancient days are The luce stock and abort cravat of the eighteenth century gallant In with us, also the ribbon flounces, dolman wrap nnd underaleevea of the 'Jos. Never la fair woman sweeter than when dressed In the pre! tine which ugget Iht randmummi. She la wrapped a well In the i-loak of romance, for her folderols hint of many tlilnga-duel. heartbreaks and even political controversies. When the undersleeve, as we have come t know It, flrt made It bow to American luauly tic clvlj war wh waging. The wmen lielow Muxon and Disnn'a Una caught the fever, arid In time of stress turned every avallahle white rag to tm d' rslecvc. Old linen sheet w-rc brought Into account, the gNd parta shaping th full puff exactly ua It I aeen today. Mos quito netting strung with colored wool win used for the wide undersleeve made with a number of tiny frill and falling Hway from t b hare arm. For a third ptyle a sort of headed flounce, which ruiiUI be applied at a moment notice to any sleeve while lawn waa preferred. In time, however, undersleeve in thla shape were seen even in the coarsest long-cloth, and they were admired at that. Ttirso three model, with variation and much of the charm of their long dead erliMl, are with us today, and n In the long iikii, each display a the correct under gleove flnlh. Which I to ny, that all are mad separate from the costume, o that they may lie freshened or chunKed aa of yore. With one bodice three aeta of Undendeeven ara sometime supplied. In a many different cut and materials; but for the flowing sleeve of abort cut only some thing thut cornea distinctly from under tieath can be used. Thla aleeve. to be the thing. mut fanten directly tiion the arm, ribbon drawstrings or elastic hand lielng uaed for the pur poae. If II i a puff, a cloae cuff band, sometime very deep and pointing over tha bund, bold It at the wrist. The edges of the frilled uii(l I hleeve in One lawna or nulls are trimmed with lace or narrow flowered rlbhon, and if trie model I In tha ahape of a deep, un-plated ruffle It may ahow only a hem. Huch pleated style are called pagoda Undersleeve, but aa their extreme width and tha dead white lawn in which they are made give them rather an eccentric appearance, much of their charm la lost. Tlie true aristocrat in underaleevea must half reveal and half conceal the purpoae for which it wua created -one of coquetry alone. Kven t'upid would be harmleaa with a label, and the name thing holds god with underaleevea and everything else In dress. Three araart tolleta by a good maker dis play effect suited to the gentle fascina tion of undersleeves. One In pale brown cloth la perhapa the lielle of the group, as tha quaint cut of the K.I on ooat lend Itself admirably to the requirement of the quainter arm draperies. With the collar cut In tha form of a 4 op cape with stole fronts. It hangs low over the sleeve, which, short, open and slashed nt the inner arm, are themselves like capes. The underaleevea are of white silk muslin, in thrw frills, whoso edges are trimmed with butter colored lace, rndersleevea in the same form and material ore pretty with edges of narrow rlhlmn matching the gown tint yellow with a yellow gown, violet with violet, etc. With such bordering the white aleevea thamsclvea ahow up delightfully. 1'iuler puffs of white handkerchief linen distinguish the aleevea of another street costume, whose mottled tweed show the familiar green and blue mixture. Thla striking color combination la again much In favor, and the newest blues shown sep arately are In the rich Indigo shade here employed. Masarln blue, thla tint wag one railed, and It aeemed then an eminently styllHh name. Hut today we must say In digo." though tike old words, "frock" and "iHniy," which are gema from the same period, we are showed to retain. Kcturtitng to the tweed gown and the remaining model, both vf them likewise show fashion's fondness for long shouldered effect. lUith are made with collars which extend beyond the shoulder sesms, and the spread of sleeves t-low, of course, ta creaHt a the drooping look. Mottled wool In gray and black composea the third touVl. which plain gray cloth trim effectively. The bodice of this gown la also la odd eton form, and plala Freueh lawn composea the "under" flounces, which In this case are applied to the outside of tha sleeves. lveaplta th fact thst fashion's shears ara sweeping toward kmg-tailed coat cuts, short jackets still hold their own. The new etons. Indeed, are mere charming thaa ever, run ning to all sorts of pie ted and slashed de vice, which hang front yokes covered la turn by the popular deep collar. Whatever trimming hi employed upon tha Jacket stay appear upon the shirt, but assay quite flay nit I coat atsy he acootnpnabod by ttklrta entirely plain. A new skirt aaodal of exceeding becoming nesa Is shown by tha blue a ltd greea gowa already described. A double wverefclrt hssh ta made at the front and stdo. but the back hang In a single shaped box pleat I Mv mil i x. - STREET 8UIT8 WHOSE WRAPS SUGGEST ANCIENT PRETTINESS. Contrasting trimmings of all aorta are used upon street suits, the most stunning of which are in Iron gray with touches of some rich color. A simple device with quite a stately result Is to trim the apron of the skirt alone, the decoration likewise decreas ing the width of the already narrow breadth. Apropea of this narrow front gore, a clever dree maker gives a list of the four qualities neonaaary for a perfect costume: Jtrat Ixng shoulders. 8econd Bleeves big at tha bottom. Third-Skirt cljee at hips and wide at hem. Fourth Narrow apron gore. Oh, for tha chance to stir the receipt In magic bowl and bring forth the creation of our dreama! In default of thla we will turn to the shop gown and how perfect. The French Importation ta more perfect, of course, and now it appears with number less new charms, among which la Swedish embroidery, don la reds and blues on underwear. Wraps In the charmingly becoming form, but which run the risk of exaggeration, are the short stole capes patterned after the dolman wraps of other days. The are for tha moment at a moat graceful stage, the stole dropping to the knees and the lac and silk quillings which hang be low tha cap proper reaching Just the cor rect stage of voluminousneaa. Costumes for the lat autumn will be frequently made with these capes, whose trimmings In such oases will, of course, match those of tha skirl Again, not a few of such shoulder core rings are part of the bodice Itself, and this may ahow skirts or talis of many aorta. A charming vtettiag gown saada wtth a dolmaa cap la of btaqu cloth with bias banda of black velvet. On of these heeds the deep gathered Souac of th skirt and another decorate th collar portioa of th caps, Belww thla collar th cloth, which la la a very silky quality, hangs ta aa u trtmaeed pleated Sou oca. Large whit pearl buttons fasten th stole, and each oT thee la awaked by a tab of th velvet, creating th effect f aa arwanwntal but tonhole. number of short Jackets ara aeen which suggest capes in rut. and If the cape Idea Is not demonstrated elsewhere It will appear in the collar. Iarge buttons with drop pendants In gimps of many sorts are used upon capes and roats, and so much is the purely ornamental admired that such deooraUone are imitated In jet and fell braid upon hats. Just here a word about hats, which are once more taking to feathered cruelties. Never, aurely, since the aTs of the last century, when, it seems, millions of dead warbler decked th head of woman, have auch vast number of birds been used upon female headgear. For instance, a panne hat In a deep b!ue baa a wreath of tiny blue birds seeming to roost at one side upon a twig. Doves thst will never coo again lie flatly aide by side upon crowns, their dead bills meeting over the upturned brim edge. Owl heads stare stiffly from the front or sides of turbans, ostrich feath ers rurl above and below brirae, and quills are aa thick as th arrows In some war rior'! quiver. A neat and becoming little sailor for walking use is swathed with a scarf of silk, velvet or panne, and crossed at the crown with two quills. These tte flatly, us they should do. for If crows are rising, trimmings have not yet dared the bristling lines of ancient daya. la aa old-time fash Ion plate recently unearthed all the hat flowers stood up Uhe the cowslips in con trary Mary's gardea. while the bird:, which likewise had dropped upoa th mil linery patch, seemed only to be there for the purpoae of song. Today perhaps far humanitariaa rea sons the bird and bloom which crown women's pate ara anade t look definitely dead. Th defunct aongsteia appear as if Irened out. and soma of the most distinc tive of th French roses ara aa flat as acaBoped fiaanel penwipers. One, r per haps two. of these, la faiat pink, yellow or white, la frequently vaed aa aa nader brim dacaratioa tor a hat ta a contrasting ceior. Whea la delicate pink these roses ara beaaUrtil with a pais bbj hat. They ara mer employed wtth foNage, and many are bigger than any roae that ever dropped from the Up of nature. MARY DEAN. Frills of Fashion Seal rings are said to be the most popular with the girls just now, but a diamond solitaire adjusted to the right finger still has its attractions. A Denver woman has invented a new kind of pin. but the whole problem will never be solved until a pin I invented that wilt clone up at night when it falls on the floor. Stitching la used In profusion on all tha new costumes and stitched straps either of the same material or of silk or velvet in self or contrasting tint or frequently em ployed for trimming. Low-crowned felt hats for everyday wear show pinked ruches of ribbon in navy bl-e. emerald green and red encircling the ciown, the same tints being repeated In tha chou that rests under the brim. itrown is one of the color leaders of tha season, and it is particularly effective if combined with two other simile, ivory be ing ono of them; mushroom, ivory and let tuce green ia a charming combination, and chocolate. Ivory and azalea yellow is an other artistic blending. A charming hat of the toque order Is undo of ermine and chinchilla. The flat lop of the crown is of the ermine, and around the rim is a scalloped band of chin chilla scallops describe it better than any thing elae the scallops down. unU in tne interstices between each there is more ir mine, a black tip in each place. Among the prettiest of the new waists ar the velveteen. These come in the told colors, teds and dark preens and biues, tut also and these are realty the best in mixed grays, exceedingly pretty th:ngs In soft effects. The buttonx, when buttons are used, are of dark steel, or there may- t black, with a deeign of flowers in Kteel. Something new in the way of fur-trimmed house shoe Is the Juliette shoe, with its firrlly little high heels and tops with seams n the center, cutting down at the fide that it may be slipped on. and without but tons or lacings. The new styUs axe of patent leather with a narrow band of fur around the edges. In colore there are most brilliant effects, and tha deep point8 in which trimmings ara formed add to the theatrical effect. There are deep reda. greens, blues, silvers, steel and gold effect. In these frequently tha lania are good sum. Wug and dangling, adding to the brilliancy of the effect. Th y are In deep points for the skirts of gowns sod in shorter ones fer the bodices. Some of the new chatcuune bags have on the outside a card case, which cpen with a clasp and shows a convenient memoran dum slip and pencil. Hanging from th hook on aome of the bags Is a iUtla metal change bail, and there are other caUhe from which msy be hung anything desired, t'hateiame begs without the outside rant case have Utile powder boxes "tt" fxaia