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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 27, 1903)
Long Skirt Coats Are Strongly IBI u i i uo nui use inpsp, saiu ihh American woman Impatiently. "I want one of the long skirt coat;'." The French modiste shrugged her fat shoulders dcprecatingly. "We have them not, mndame." It was too true. The American glanced down the long anion and saw drew coats And wraps of every material and color. But Whatever their length, whatever their or namentation, they were all after one model loose and flowing. The Bklrt coat 1m a distinctly American creation. It marks a daring step taken by the American modistes In thus disregarding the dictates of the Parisian arbiter of fashion. The long skirt coats are becoming to so great a variety of figures that the style will have a greater following than ever this winter In this country. It will be followed, however, mostly in the coats of suits. Paris has been too long the teacher to take reudily upon herself the attitude of a pupil. Therefore, the Imported dress coats will be loose. Perhaps with the idea of making them more acceptable to the American market, these loose coats are more beautiful than ver and moro richly trimmed. Color con trasts are more strongly emphasized In the trimmings, and elaborate applique of silk r cloth tell the tale of Infinite handwork. A delicate gray etamlne coat comes half Way between the hip and knee, and Is lined with pale blue watered silk. Around the Beck and down the front runs a three-Inch wide band of white and silver passemen terie. It Is a design of white popples on a liver liackground, and the poppy leaves are delicately tinted with pink. The sleeves are full, with a decided puff below the elbow. Hut the fullness Is drawn Into an oddly shaped cull of the passementerie. The coat Is closed down the front with silver cord With long tassclled ends. The crare for Oriental fabrics and col orings seems to be shifting from the Japanese to the Chinese. At least a mem Unique Ways of Celebrating Wedding Anniversaries LONG with the revival of old fashioned ideas In dress, the twentieth century woman Is tak ing up a custom that has gradu ally fallen into disuse these many A M8. years ago the celebration of wedding an niversaries. She las gone back to the be lief of her grandmother that it Is a gocd thing for the wife to make much of the anniversary daya in order to keep the heart young and to renew the ties which were formed In the daya of courtship. According to the tradition of ages there are fourteen anniversaries to be celebrated. Theee are: First year, eotton; second year, paper; third year, leather: fifth year, wooden; sev enth year, woolen; tenth year, tin; twelfth year, silk and fine linen; fifteenth year, crystal; twentieth year, china; twenty fifth year, silver; thirtieth year, pearl; fortieth year, ruby; fiftieth year, golden; seventy-fifth year, diamond. The first ten wedding anniversaries give cope for the most variety in the way of entertainment, as many Ingenious things ran be planned at a small expense. After the tenth year it is necessary to entertain en a more elaborate scale. With tho revival of this custom comes an Innovation for the first anniversary. Which Is sometimes varied by being called a sugar wedding, and which gives oppor tunity for much merriment in the way of a candy pull and similar gaiety. In any event, the form of invitation is a follows: 1902. 1903. Mr. and Mrs. Oeorge B. Root re quest the pleusure of your company on Thursday. October 15, at 8 o'clock in the evening. 414 Maple avenue, Detroit. It goes without saying that the special anniversary must be indicated by the dates at the top. The Invitation Itself may be written or etched on the material which the anniversary stands for. If the sugar wedding is celebrated In stead of the cotton on the first anniversary, the invitation may be sent on large candy hearts. A novel idea is to have a Noah's Ark for the centerpiece on the table. This should be made of candy. Any ingenious woman can make it herself without the aid of a caterer, if she will buy a mould the shape of a boat, and make her candy of light brown sugar to give the correct tint. For sails she can dismantle an ordinary child's sailboat or use common manila paper pasted on flag sticks. The animals may all be made of sugar, molded Into Shape while the candy Is warm, or made In animal molds. Kaislns, dried currants, cloves and allspice are excellent accessories for eyes, ears and nones. In lieu of better material for tails, wrapping twine and shoe strings will do. The ark may rest on a mirror to represent the sea. Near by should be a strip of land ML Ararat elevated and rocky, with green things growing. Some of the aalmaU should stand in the boat, others may be on land, but each one should hare a ribbon tied about Its neck and be attached to the place card ef the guest to wham U Is la ber of the "400" has started the. tide of fashion In that direction. She Is a collector of some taste, and possesses some beautiful Chlneso dresses and embroideries. At recent function she attracted attention by her wrap. It was in reality the loose, Jacket of a Chinese costume In a rich golden brown with a wealth of hand em broidery In gold, coral pink, emerald green and dull blue. Although blxarre. the rich mingling of colors and the elegance of the brown silk made it a strikingly effective wrap. Indian embroideries a re being used as well as the Chinese on drrss coats and wraps. It is not unusual In a shop which deals In eastern fabrics and curios to tind a woman in the upholstery department seeking for bits of embroidery which may be utilized for coat or dress trimming. "Our foreign buyers are making a regular business of hunting up such scarfs," the clerk explained. Hut among all these brilliant color fan cies, blark and white effects hold their own with undiminished popularity. A black satin-faced broadcloth makes a "stylish reception or evening wrap. It Is cut after one of the new long shoulder effect models, and the yoke extends half way down the arm and forms the cup for the full sleeve. The front and back nre shirred to this yoke, to fall In straight folds. There Is a parrow vest of black velvet, braidexl in black and silver. The front falls open to show a facing of black velvet, on which wide white crepe tks lire drawn through velvet loops. The loose bell-shaped sleeves are shirred Into tho yoke caps. They are trimmd around tho bottom by double rows of black and silver braiding. The same braiding outlines the oddly-shaped yoke and emphasises the line of the shoulder. The coat la collarless and the neck is finished with black chenille fringe mixed with silver. The military cape coat Is another out growth of the whim for long shoulder be given as a souvenir. Candy canes for the men and candy flowers for the women will also make good souvenirs. Candy refreshments in the guise of fish, fruit and vegetables should masquerade for the occasion in dainty candy and bon bun boxes. One of the prettiest cotton weddings re cently given was a colonial affair. The In vitations were etched on white pap r cambric and issued according to the usual form. In the lower left corner were tho words: "Please come in colonial costume." As a result the men came attired in cavalier costume and the women in colonial dress fashioned from the various colored paper cambrics, all becomingly slashed and befrilliMl. Powdered wiga and queues helped to carry out the idea, which was a decided success, particularly the cotillon In "the wee sma' hours" whe.i candlet burned low. For a paper wedding fancy can run riot with artistic results, for one can purchase crepe papers in exquisite shades and with floral designs that rival real flowers them selves. In spring or summer a cherry blossom fete, a la Japanese, could be carried out nicely and would be most upropriate. For such an affair the invitations should br sent out on small Japanese fans which have cherry blossoms painted on them. The guests may be requested to come in crepe paper kimonas and parabola, or thu host, hostess and their waiting maids alone may receive in Japanese costume. If the weather Is pleasant, Jap-inese lanterns may be suspended from the trees about the lawn or the house may be deco rated with lanterns and paper garlands. The mantel and corners should be banded with cherry blossoms made out of crepe paper, and In one comer of the drawing room a bower may be made for the bride and groom. For this the background may be of decorated crepe paper In Japanese For and About Women Mrs. Kdith Maynard has been appointed postmistress at Sheboygan, Wis., a city of 13. UH) inhabitants. The portrait of the dowager empress of China, now being painted by Miss Kate Augusta Carl, an American artist, is to be placed on exhibition at St. Iouis next year by the consent of her majesty, who, it is said, will also send other exhibits. For the first time in the nlstory of Co lumbia university a woman has been di racvtly appointed to a professorship by the bourd of trustees. The new professor is Miss Margaret K. Maltby. Ph. I)., a gradu ate of Barnard, who will be installed at the beginning of the academic year as ad junct professor of physics. Mrs. Minnie F. Folllett of Cleveland is the only woman banker west of New York. She has recently opened an institution where women can speculate in stocks. All the employes in the oflloe are women, and girls instead of boys will mark the boards. Mrs. Folllett was the tirst woman in the real estate business in Cleveland. She also started the Union Investment company and was its manager for about three years. Mrs. Penelope Morris, who lives on an Island off the coast of Beaufort. 8. C. is an exception to the great majority of her sex to preferring to live the life ef a hermit. effects. In Its simplest form It Is a mod erately loose reefer with shallow shoulder capes. It has a standing collar uiul neat cliffs on tho coat sleeve. Both collar and cuffs are usually trimmed with many rows of braid. If the braid Is gold or sliver the effect Is pretty. The buttons are nearly always gilt. Indeed, the fancy for gilt buttons Is growing, so that they arc being used on many coats that can by nu means lay claim to the title military. A pleasing little coat with triple shoulder capes partakes of the nature of a yachting Jacket. It Is in the true shade of yachting blue and has a double row of anchor but tons down tho front. It Is collarless and the r.eck is rounded out into a V. Around the neck and down the front runs a two Inch band of the blue cloth, closely braided In alternate gilt and turkey nil. Tho same, alternate rows of braiding finish the seams and shoulder capes. The sleeves Hare at the hand to show a red silk lining, and a cuff effect Is given by many alternate row of he braiding. But many of the military capes ore not so pretentious. On many of the capes they furnish the dominant note. One of these more extreme models Is of fawn broad cloth. Tho cape falls from the shoulders and its sharply pointed back hangs to tho bottom hem of the coat. It is lined with black surah. The lining is displayed where a gilt button turns it baik over the shoul der. The coat has a semi-fitted back and loose fronts, decorated with gilt buttons. It has a high standing collar of the broad cloth, completely covered by a turnover col lar of velvet, braided In gold. The sleeves are bell-shaped and trimmed with three deep folds of the broadcloth. The uuder slccvo is a plain coat sleeve except that it puffs slightly above tho round cuff. The cuff Is also of the velvet, braided in gold. For shopping purposes tho semi-fitted coats of covert cloth are fashionable. They are the next step to the cornet coat and are less trying to many figures. design. A large clothes tree should be transformed Into a trellis and covered with the cherry blossoms nnd their leaves. Suspended from the celling In this corner should be an immense bonbon bag of pink crepe paper shaped like a balloon. The foundation bag may be of atout manila paper, the outside decorated with cherry petals pasted closely together. This bag should be filled with snapping bonbons. At a signal from the hostess each guest Is blindfolded and given a small wand, wound with cherry blossoms. He or the Is led In the direction of the hag, and is told to whirl around rapidly, then to strike the bag. As can be Imagined, there are many misdirected blows, but In due time the bag Is broken, arid the candy distributed, whilo their mottoes are read amid much merriment. The centerpiece on the table may be of branches of cherry blossoms arranged to represent a trre under which stands "Miss Cherry blossom," a medium siaed Japatieve doll attired in a dainty kimona. Small bis(ue Japanese dolls, which may be purchased at any 10-cent store, should have the legs broken off and their bodies fastened on bonbon boxes. These should be dressed In crepe paper kimonas, and Btood by each plate for souvenirs. For the leather wedding tho Invitations should be etched or burned on oblong cards of leather. A burnt design or the monograms of the host and hostess at the top would be most appropriate. The hostess who does pyrogrsphy herself has many resources at hand to make a success of her leather wedding. As to the refresh ments, they may be served In all the leather tones from chamois to chocolate brown. A unique entertainment for the wooden wedding is to make it a Dutch affair. The hostess should receive in a Dutch costume made of crepe paper In a Delft design wind-mills and all. A Dutch cap rhould be Born on the island, which her father owned, she has spent all her life there. Though 6t years of age, she has both the stature nit strength of a man. She is a capital sailor and her boat was built entirely by herself. Her nearest neighbors, who live some ten miles away, declare that she Is a match for any of the men in the vk-inlly at sailing, rlHhiiig. oystering. shooting or tending cat tle. When stormy weather stops outdoor work she knits socks for the fishermen round about her Inland home. Mrs. Iaura Tilden Bay, who was not long ago admitted to practice law before the Supreme court of Colorado, Is a daughter of Judge Tilden of Sacramento, Cat. She began her course of legal training with her father while yet in her teens. After suc cessfully passing her examinations she went into practice with her father In ltOt Miss Tilden organised the Woman's Suf frage club at Sacramento and was its presi dent for several years. Though living very quietly, she takes an active interest In everything. She has time to be a member of the Business Woman's club and also to do some writing. In 1U98 Ojvemor Mark bam made Miss Tilden a notary public After her marriage her practice was for a time suspended. Deciding that Colorado was mors beneAcial for her health, she re moved to Denver a few years ago. in Vogue A pretty surtout is of the covert cloth. It is in the threc-nii. ii ter length which h.ta proved ho serviceable for traveling. The buck is tight titling and the fronts thrce quutter fitting. The scams are strapp. I in corset design. The nsrrow turnover collar Is of golden brown velvet, and the fr uits fasten under a fly. The plain coat sleeves hive the culTs fastened by pearl buttons. For outing civit models the Ameri-m cuatmaker is often constrained to follow tho Knglish tsilors. This is not strange, considering that Knglund is the one nation whose women are avowedly devote I to sport. One of the Knglish importations is a long oat of brown broadcloth, which would be admirable fur automohlling or steamer wear. It is devldodly long, extending to within four tncl es if the dress hem. It has a semi-lilted back and loose fronts. Yet the goods la so heavy it falls In straight folds and takes away any effect of fullness. The coat Is double breasted and the front is ornamented and fastened by double rows of big gilt buttons, which are over r.n Inch In diameter. The oat has no standing collar, but a deep capo collar. This is in reality formed of triple collars of tan anil white broad cloth, lilting smoothly one over the other to give the effect of only one collar. Tho sleeves flare ami are trimmed around the 4bottom by triple handings of the tan i. ml white broadcloth, giving nn effect similar to that obtained in the collar. Another traveling "auto" coat Is of Scotch tweed, and Is made something after a Nor folk design. It Is also long. It has a yoke back and front, and deep pleats extend to tho bottom hem. A belt passes through these, thus gathering in the fullness at tho waist. Curved pearl buttons are used for fastening and decoration. The silk lined hood is especially attractive for steamer wear. IIAKKIKT HAWI.KT. made of the same material. An apron of plain white crope paper will tone down the blue. She should also wear wooden shoes. On entering, the women guests should bo given crepe paper Dutch caps and the men Dutch nccklits. If natural woodbine Is not to bo had, artificial vinea ran be used, and these ci un billed with shaving will be effective for decoration. lambrequins and portieres thould be made of shavings, and all tho rus tic chairs and seats that ran be produced should be brought Into requisition. At one end of the room a dais may bo covered with shavings, and two high backed Dutch chairs for the host and hos tess on the dais may have a canopy ot shavings, woodbine and crepe paper chrys anthemums. Wooden mugs should bo used for serving the punch and other liquid rwf rcshruants, while the punch itself should be s rvinl from a wooden pall, chopping bowl or "moss-covered bucket." Wooden knives and forks or chops tcks may be ut-ed; and ices should lie served, in small wooden pulls lined with paraillne paper to prevent any sssibln flavor of wood. Wooden tubs, shots and pigging may be utilised for jellies, rclbhes, ullve.t, salted ulmonds, etc. Shu who is so for tunate as to bo ablo to procure birch bark can make pretty thing of this for fun venlrs. A tl in of btitiuty is a joy forever. . T. FELIX GOURALD'S ORIENTAL CREAM. OR AAulCAL BEAUTIflEI Raatavas Tan, Ftsiplaa, fracktaa. Moth fatcbaa. aV aaas aaa Bkta uia fill aaaa, ana at mrf y F Mamlah m baautr, V aua 4aaa datactloa. it Baa atos4 tha tail ot Sfl-a ynrs, ana la a harmlaaa a iaata It to La aara II la prop'! Aceapt 04 couularfall of alml- lar naoia. Ir. X )A. Sayra aai4 to a ladjr of tha haiit- 'laa patient): as tan laalaa ill uaa tham. 1 rate amend "OOI.'UAI'D'S CKEAU" aa tha trait Sarmrul of all tha ahla preparations." Kor aala by a truulata au4 (a at? (oovla oral era la tha l)tilu4 awtaa an4 Karupa. FKHD. T. HOPKINS. Prap'r. 17 mat Jooaa St.. N. T. Usarts Psrt.Soft.UbJu Skta aed a Bcaatlfal fsssolnlan. eerca Knioma sad Ttjthaj . Ab aoluiaiy aua Par felackk klaa. 1-iBDtaa. Kadoaaa. Bnw it apals see Tae. UeaS vltla 1 Darauvkoraia Hoap a fat Sot by ataqratle Caa, M 4efssif. On Bottte TO EH to A&tmtBm w m- a a a i w t r - if ' ssqbsttsjsrsa sMct. at fc.tila. aiinanH rA. fcy bbjhU. yfm i sM s as Tprtiiaeiafi mm