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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Oct. 22, 1899)
OMAHA MKK. Fads in Feminine Headwear NEW YORK , Oct. 17. What nearly every woman aspires to own for her winter wear- ins ; In a Ulrectolro made wholly ot velvet with white waved chllToii , and the crowning glory of It a Hhlncstonc sunburst set inside at the base of the brim , where It Hares up from the race. The sunburst Is really the cornerstone round which the properly designed Dlrec- lolrc Is built , and aside from Its virtues as an ornament It serves the noble purpose of bracing back the brim so that It forms the proper sort of arcli above the face. Whether the crown of her Dlrectolro rakes exagger atedly forward or not , whether the whole hat itself Is composed of velvet that Is of the commonest weave of that variety known a antique are almost unimportant details to the woman who has staked all her claims to beauty on her strings. The Dlrectolro that is a force In the millinery realms al ways has strings , but ns you hold dear your hopea of looking your best in your now winter hat , don't invest in ribbon strings. Nothing is more dilllcult to dispose be comingly about the face than broad , double- faced satin scarfs , no matter if the satin la the richest and the softest you can find. The requisite effect , Indeed , the only effect , is to ho had by the use of chiffon or liberty crepe or inclines not , or , if you can afford a good delicate kind , lace scarfs. llo\v StrliiuN Sliiiulil Hi ; Worn. When fashionably disposed , the hat strings are invariably draped and one Is half a yard sh rter than the other ; this Is of course , the loft hand string. When a nirovtoire Is pinned in place its soft chiffon i right hand streamer Is cast across the bust lln a loop to the loft shoulder ; there It meets Ills mate and they fasten to the shoulder of Itliu gown \\lih an ornamental brooch ; from lils point they How down to the waist line fnd are fastened again , whllo their ends drift uneven lengths , cno to the knees , the Ither nearly to the foet. i On a sumptuous calling gown , of that grange , soft color called faded leather , ; 'ings of creamy lace , draped as described , invaluable agents for decoration , tlmoi the hat streamers are very long I/ fall In au airy chitfon cascade down front uf the gown , and an exceedingly \f \ , light Mile fringe gives them a fashlon- flnlsh , | olrod velvet is one of the- few fabrics have never seen before , and that Is ling to the ft out ns a goods for haiid- simple trained skirts to wear with y theater waists , and it comes most play for ornamental collars , belts , rover Figs , hat folds and ornamental waistcoats. > do see hero and there whdo gowns of land ono of the most attractive bridal I uinea made for an October wedding was [ of white molro velvet hung with white fringes of divers lengths , Iijurnlng over other Interesting contrlbu- Ijs of thu manufacturers to the hordes of V'lcs turned out this autumn , we 11 ml a wngly appealing novelty under the ap- [ fiprlalo title of L'arc-en-clel , for it Is a white cloth HO wonderfully dyed that nn oscent rainbow fitrlpe , now appearing , disappearing , like the colors in a shot silk , runs through every width. I/arc-en- ciel has been put forward especially for the make-up of theater and reception gowns , whllo It Is not a little used for thu troupes of bridesmaids now In diessmakera' hands. Moat popularly It IB garnished with lines of clc-nr brown fur , mink , Alaska sable , etc. , and heavy cream cluny nnd Renaissance lace. 1I M1V.VVIIN ! > H. Hum ing over a row of covetable toilets at any wideawake dressmaker's , the Inference Is clear that something Is being used to break the shoulder line , to relieve the flat ness of the upper halt of the sleeve where it enters the drillhole. Many waists show ridged tucks nt the shoulder point , n broad rover collar Is allowed to sweep low over the sleeve , or a couple of caps give width and grace at the shoulders. Everywhere Is denoted a reprehensible tendency to break ROSE-COLORED CASHMBKB NEGLIGEE. the sleeve line with round decoration on the upper or the forearm , else at the elbow a llttlo frill runs round the arm and below it to the waist rucked chiffon or lace extends In a long , close cuff. Beyond these criticisms none but flatterIng - Ing comments are to be made of dress waibts as they now reveal themselves , and power ful as has been the effort to coax women to accept moro decoration on their skirts , the waists of the majority of gowns continue to steal all the real glory and color of the costumes. On gome of them the most intri cate and coquettish llttlo waistcoat arrange ments are adopted , nnd as ono of the no- companylug illustrations reveals , the waist of a cloth gown will open its velvet faced rover collar Ilrst to reveal a waistcoat of soft striped silk , and inside this a second vest of satin overlaid with lace , upon which Is draped , through jeweled buckles , a nech- tlo of liberty satin. What with the bar rel-shaped buttons and the slltchlngs on the llttlo cloth garment itself , the waist of this pearl gray cloth suit reflected seven dilferent but perfectly accordant colors and live different fabrics , A CoNlimip In Mi-own. Scores of the prettiest costumes made up HO far have illustrated a general tendency of the modistes to harmonize In ono suit varia tions of a single color. For example , a thrush brown camel's hair will haveits waist ornamented with a great kerchief col lar of quite golden brown silk , upon which Is laid a veiling of tcatintcd guipure ; the whole collar will show an edging of mink's fur , a girdle and bowo of sublo brown velvet and the apex of this symphony in brown will bo a tucked or plain high collar and frontlet of palo gold-colored silk. It requires a care ful hand and a true eye for color to compile one of these mismatched dresses , as they are denominated In the dressmaking vernacular , nnd not fall into very erroneous arrange ments In many greens or selected blues. There are apparently at this utage In clothesland only two details in the making of a dress waist which , if followed , will render a gown hopelessly unfashionable. One Is to cut the sleeves full at the top ; the other IH to allow any length of bodice below tbo waist lino. Otherwise you are free to make the body of your now fall dress as your own sweet will dictates , and , do what you will , you cannot get behind the limes Big rovers and llttlo ones , n slightly pouched front or a flat one , long sloovew to the knuckle , or those to the wrist , boll-shaped cuffs or noiii1 at all , are each and every one modvs of the time moat timely , and boleros nnd vest effects and short jacket backs ami yokes and kerchief arrangements cannot really bo placed any onu brforo the other In the llstH of popularity. VrUol Mot'KN. What tills Uiu soul of the lover of neck novelties with joy uiicimllnod is the high , stiff , dark velvet stork that hooks behind , but shows two rows of gllttciltig llttlo buttons running up the back. This Is fast ened about the nock of any gown and then n mitin ribbon of some pale color Is slipped about the thrnnt at the top of this collar , and Inside It , drawn to the front and Hod so that Its ends , garnished with tabs of the most delicate \\lilto point lace , fasten In a bow crisp as a fresh-blown whllo rose right under the chin. A long throat and a proudly polled chin are necessary If one would we.ir this novelty , while something not less pretty and original , and more eomf rtaltlo , Is a collar of folded nnnnu with two Illy petal- shaped pieces , doflly wired , fared with satin and turned back In long outstanding points from either side under the earc. So lung ire some of those collar points that they ex tend four inches out from the cellar band and then droop and touch the shoulder seam and are at once eccentric and humming. MAHV DEAN. Living Fashion Models The approaching winter makes Intelest cinter In the forthcoming winter UDVKIIIIK which the up-to-date woman will want to Include in her wardrobe. The plciutcs In The Boo this week show Just what the bis. . metropolitan ateliers in fashion's circle dl- - play Nothing is m. re In vogue this season Hiin , silk , chllfon , ( .at n or crepe boill es. having the surface of the goods closely covered ! ) row after row of gatheied baby ilhhon. In this m.innur effective contiasls are arrange ! , anil it is even successful in fuvbi.shliig up an old waist to look lil c new. The hi dice pic tured hero is a costly importation of hl.ick silk muslin over a silk foundation , the rib bon satin-edged and very dec , ratlve. It shows the Inoviti'blo levuros and full jabot both conspicuous features of tills soasjn'n styles. A delightfully pretty and becoming h.it Is the one Illustrated deMgncd for all times and seasons. It is qullo handsome enough for the theater , and yet Is si ) c mploto ami simple In style as to seivo for shopping an I street wear as well. As with nine out of ten successful hats this season , the frame Is of velvet , a rich marine blue , on which rests a pait of the crisp roll of Hilk en circling the crown tf velvet sliirred into a high koronotv A niaprnllieoiit rliinostoiiio ornament holds two dashing qulllb in place , directly above the face , whllo glowing color in the silk at the back provides a pleasing decoration. Its very simplicity makes this llttlo neglige thu moro pleasing. It is of rose-eoloicd cashmere , trimmed with tea-tinted lace , set on to fall with jabot fullness down the front , and hang In deep rilllles over the hands. Tortoise Shell Ornaments At the present lime tortoise shell orna ments are very much In evidence , and per haps the newest and smartest of all these beautiful things is a munll bouquet holder that pins on the front of the gown. It Is devised to hold just enough wat < > r to keep fresh a few sprigs of lemon verbena , helio trope , or bit of some other s.veet snmlllng plant. In shnpo the holder Is similar to a ftinnll tube about three Inches long. At the lower end It Is tapering and closed. Tim top Is finished with a narrow hand of gold , and at the back there IK a pin also of gold with n strong clasp. By Its means the holder Is always held In an upright position. The same material Is being much uwd for the handles of parasols , and very beautiful ones are to bo found In the fashionable shops. The handsomest one that 1ms yet been scon was brought by a New York woman from Switzerland , where she had It caived to order for her. It represents a turkey's claw holding a ball. The ball revolves as though on Its axis , but it could be readily neon that the whole thing hail been carved out of one pleco of the most exquisitely marked shell. The parasol that It upheld was lined with whlto nnd covered with a rare bit of black laco. Hares' and diuku heads arc also made in tortoise Hindi for parasol handles , or rather for the handles of the small umbrella parasols that are called by the French , en tout ens , as they answer equally well for rain or shine. The word largo hardly seems to express the dimensions of Die back combs at present , and they are made either of a solid , severe ploco of curved shell , or they aio most fan tastically carved. Cupids drawing chariots and Hwans Hying about appear to bo favorlto designs. Of course It would only bo correct to wear them in the evening , and even so , It Is far from being every style of face that finds them becoming. Hews to pin In the hair , modeled from those made of wired ribbons that of late have been so popular , are also late novelties. For Biich purposes ! the shell Is used very thin and Is quite trans parent. To bold up the willful little scolding locks HAT -MARINE BLUE VELVET. at the back of the head , ornaments In shell can now bo bought in almost any fantastic design , they have become so popular. It IH nnw not unusual to see a young toitoiso of high polish and beautiful colors calmly re posing upon Hie back of some fair head. A long pin of shell passew through the turtle's body on the under side and fafilens It se curely. Women as Opticians The optical department In one of the larg est New York dry goods shops Is under the personal direction of a woman. Her name in Miss E. Van Twinkle. She Is the only woman optician that she knows of who de cuples a similar position. Mlns Van Twinkle wa.s horn and i eared In New York City. She IB I he daughter of a jeweler and has always had a natural liking for mechanism. In all probability , however , she would never have thought of following her picseiit pro fession as a livelihood had It not been for an accident. As early as 1S"I ! she was a clerk in A. T. Stewart's store , when ; for night years she had charge of leather goods. The hiieces-sors of Stewart , desiring to open BLACK .SILK BODICE a department for the B.ile of optical goods , selected Miss Van Twinklu to prepare to take charge of the fitting of lens. To this end they paid for her course ( if instruction In a downtown optical manufacturing ostuu- llshmtmt. Every night , after store hours , MlHri Van Twlnklo worked In the optical factory learning the practical part of thu calling , which Includes the grinding of lens , the adjusting ami repairing of spectacle springs and frames. Ho Interested did she become in the work that later she pursued a six mouths' course In theoretical and ap plied option at her own expense- , and re ceived a diploma from thu New York Op ticians' society , which Is an incorporated body , entitled to give diplomas. The cost ( if a course Is $2i. ! "It requires constant study , " said Mlfifl Van Twinkle as she deftly filed and inserted a rivet in an eyeglass. "There la always something new to learn. The optician alum only to con eel errortt of refraction by glv Ing the proper tests and adjusting the cor rect lens. When errors of lefraction nilso from disease of the eye , II passes from Hie optician In the oculist. Thu optician miiHl be able to detect disease In an eye , and recommend treatment under an oculist , but does not pi escribe. " Miss Van Twinkle has been ambitious for years to follow a clinic of opticians , but has been unable to do so owing to the piofes- slon'H hostility In wnmon entering the Held. Nn optician will take a woman apprentice into his shop , unless great pciKOiml Influ ence Is brought to bear upon him. All Urn hospitals of New Yon > , aside from those de voted to the eye alone , have optical clInlcH under the direction of a medlcril hoard. They are opposed to women Hludoiito. Miss Van Twinkle Is hopeful Hint the day Is not distant when opposition will bo removed. "It will come , " she maintains , "when women waken to Ihe ease , cleanliness and charm of the work , and Iho ample roiminorn- llon It brings. Its work IH particularly adapted to a wnman'H delicate loitch and perception. Like every tradu and profes sion , the Ilrst requisite is natural aptitude mid Indefatigable linluslry. "I can see in it every day , " said Miss Van Twinkle , "a great opening for women , and am surprised that moro have not taken It up. " Trees in Her Memory A novel departuio mciiinrallzlng the late queen of Hungary's lovti for sylvan solitudes found most appropriate expression In the publication and distribution on the aiinl- vornary of the queen's dentlnlay of a hand some album-like volume by the minister for agriculture , entitled "Memorial Trees to ( Jiioon Eli/ahoth. " The album IH a record of the trees planted In her majesty's mem ory In all poitlous of Hungary during the last twelvemonth , the minister in question having , shortly after the queen's demise , namely , on the feast ( if St. Ell/nhcth , No vember 18 , Issued n circular calling alien- lion In the fact of her deceased majesty's love for sylvan retieats and urging the municipal aulhorltlcs and private Individ uals , In manifestation of loyalty lo her memory , to planl groves , avenues or single trees In deserted spots , which groves , ave nues or Hlnglo Ireeu should In perpetuity hear the name of nil/.abcth. On turning over the volume I Mud that In response to the minister's appeal memorial avenues , groves and slnglo trees have been planted In every Klnglo district throughout the king dom In Hie nation's /ealoim devotion. From the date of isHUlng the circular until July 31 the total number of trees planted are cate- gorl/.cd as follows : 1'lnnwnod trees lWitKI'J : Leavedwood troon 1,011,170 Fruit trees iti,95 : ! ! ) Klirubs 120,112 Total y,7b7,1ia TIio ministry Is of the opinion that up to the present date upward of 3,000,000 tr CB have been planted. The albums nr pro- sonled grutullously lo all who have evinced their loyalty in this particular respect.