OMAHA MKK.
Fads in Feminine Headwear
NEW YORK , Oct. 17. What nearly every
woman aspires to own for her winter wear-
ins ; In a Ulrectolro made wholly ot velvet
with white waved chllToii , and the crowning
glory of It a Hhlncstonc sunburst set inside
at the base of the brim , where It Hares up
from the race.
The sunburst Is really the cornerstone
round which the properly designed Dlrec-
lolrc Is built , and aside from Its virtues as
an ornament It serves the noble purpose of
bracing back the brim so that It forms the
proper sort of arcli above the face. Whether
the crown of her Dlrectolro rakes exagger
atedly forward or not , whether the whole hat
itself Is composed of velvet that Is of the
commonest weave of that variety known a
antique are almost unimportant details to
the woman who has staked all her claims
to beauty on her strings. The Dlrectolro
that is a force In the millinery realms al
ways has strings , but ns you hold dear your
hopea of looking your best in your now
winter hat , don't invest in ribbon strings.
Nothing is more dilllcult to dispose be
comingly about the face than broad , double-
faced satin scarfs , no matter if the satin la
the richest and the softest you can find. The
requisite effect , Indeed , the only effect , is to
ho had by the use of chiffon or liberty crepe
or inclines not , or , if you can afford a good
delicate kind , lace scarfs.
llo\v StrliiuN Sliiiulil Hi ; Worn.
When fashionably disposed , the hat strings
are invariably draped and one Is half a
yard sh rter than the other ; this Is of
course , the loft hand string. When a
nirovtoire Is pinned in place its soft chiffon
i right hand streamer Is cast across the bust
lln a loop to the loft shoulder ; there It meets
Ills mate and they fasten to the shoulder of
Itliu gown \\lih an ornamental brooch ; from
lils point they How down to the waist line
fnd are fastened again , whllo their ends drift
uneven lengths , cno to the knees , the
Ither nearly to the foet.
i On a sumptuous calling gown , of that
grange , soft color called faded leather ,
; 'ings of creamy lace , draped as described ,
invaluable agents for decoration ,
tlmoi the hat streamers are very long
I/ fall In au airy chitfon cascade down
front uf the gown , and an exceedingly
\f \ , light Mile fringe gives them a fashlon-
flnlsh ,
| olrod velvet is one of the- few fabrics
have never seen before , and that Is
ling to the ft out ns a goods for haiid-
simple trained skirts to wear with
y theater waists , and it comes most
play for ornamental collars , belts , rover
Figs , hat folds and ornamental waistcoats.
> do see hero and there whdo gowns of
land ono of the most attractive bridal
I uinea made for an October wedding was
[ of white molro velvet hung with white
fringes of divers lengths ,
Iijurnlng over other Interesting contrlbu-
Ijs of thu manufacturers to the hordes of
V'lcs turned out this autumn , we 11 ml a
wngly appealing novelty under the ap-
[ fiprlalo title of L'arc-en-clel , for it Is a
white cloth HO wonderfully dyed that nn
oscent rainbow fitrlpe , now appearing ,
disappearing , like the colors in a shot
silk , runs through every width. I/arc-en-
ciel has been put forward especially for the
make-up of theater and reception gowns ,
whllo It Is not a little used for thu troupes
of bridesmaids now In diessmakera' hands.
Moat popularly It IB garnished with lines
of clc-nr brown fur , mink , Alaska sable , etc. ,
and heavy cream cluny nnd Renaissance
lace.
1I M1V.VVIIN ! > H.
Hum ing over a row of covetable toilets
at any wideawake dressmaker's , the Inference
Is clear that something Is being used to
break the shoulder line , to relieve the flat
ness of the upper halt of the sleeve where it
enters the drillhole. Many waists show
ridged tucks nt the shoulder point , n broad
rover collar Is allowed to sweep low over
the sleeve , or a couple of caps give width
and grace at the shoulders. Everywhere Is
denoted a reprehensible tendency to break
ROSE-COLORED CASHMBKB NEGLIGEE.
the sleeve line with round decoration on the
upper or the forearm , else at the elbow a
llttlo frill runs round the arm and below it
to the waist rucked chiffon or lace extends
In a long , close cuff.
Beyond these criticisms none but flatterIng -
Ing comments are to be made of dress waibts
as they now reveal themselves , and power
ful as has been the effort to coax women to
accept moro decoration on their skirts , the
waists of the majority of gowns continue to
steal all the real glory and color of the
costumes. On gome of them the most intri
cate and coquettish llttlo waistcoat arrange
ments are adopted , nnd as ono of the no-
companylug illustrations reveals , the waist
of a cloth gown will open its velvet faced
rover collar Ilrst to reveal a waistcoat of
soft striped silk , and inside this a second
vest of satin overlaid with lace , upon which
Is draped , through jeweled buckles , a nech-
tlo of liberty satin. What with the bar
rel-shaped buttons and the slltchlngs on the
llttlo cloth garment itself , the waist of this
pearl gray cloth suit reflected seven dilferent
but perfectly accordant colors and live
different fabrics ,
A CoNlimip In Mi-own.
Scores of the prettiest costumes made up
HO far have illustrated a general tendency of
the modistes to harmonize In ono suit varia
tions of a single color. For example , a
thrush brown camel's hair will haveits
waist ornamented with a great kerchief col
lar of quite golden brown silk , upon which Is
laid a veiling of tcatintcd guipure ; the whole
collar will show an edging of mink's fur , a
girdle and bowo of sublo brown velvet and
the apex of this symphony in brown will bo
a tucked or plain high collar and frontlet
of palo gold-colored silk. It requires a care
ful hand and a true eye for color to compile
one of these mismatched dresses , as they are
denominated In the dressmaking vernacular ,
nnd not fall into very erroneous arrange
ments In many greens or selected blues.
There are apparently at this utage In
clothesland only two details in the making
of a dress waist which , if followed , will
render a gown hopelessly unfashionable. One
Is to cut the sleeves full at the top ; the
other IH to allow any length of bodice below
tbo waist lino. Otherwise you are free to
make the body of your now fall dress as
your own sweet will dictates , and , do what
you will , you cannot get behind the limes
Big rovers and llttlo ones , n slightly pouched
front or a flat one , long sloovew to the
knuckle , or those to the wrist , boll-shaped
cuffs or noiii1 at all , are each and every one
modvs of the time moat timely , and boleros
nnd vest effects and short jacket backs ami
yokes and kerchief arrangements cannot
really bo placed any onu brforo the other In
the llstH of popularity.
VrUol Mot'KN.
What tills Uiu soul of the lover of neck
novelties with joy uiicimllnod is the high ,
stiff , dark velvet stork that hooks behind ,
but shows two rows of gllttciltig llttlo
buttons running up the back. This Is fast
ened about the nock of any gown and then
n mitin ribbon of some pale color Is slipped
about the thrnnt at the top of this collar ,
and Inside It , drawn to the front and Hod so
that Its ends , garnished with tabs of the
most delicate \\lilto point lace , fasten In a
bow crisp as a fresh-blown whllo rose right
under the chin. A long throat and a proudly
polled chin are necessary If one would we.ir
this novelty , while something not less pretty
and original , and more eomf rtaltlo , Is a
collar of folded nnnnu with two Illy petal-
shaped pieces , doflly wired , fared with satin
and turned back In long outstanding points
from either side under the earc. So lung
ire some of those collar points that they ex
tend four inches out from the cellar band
and then droop and touch the shoulder seam
and are at once eccentric and humming.
MAHV DEAN.
Living Fashion Models
The approaching winter makes Intelest
cinter In the forthcoming winter UDVKIIIIK
which the up-to-date woman will want to
Include in her wardrobe. The plciutcs In
The Boo this week show Just what the bis. .
metropolitan ateliers in fashion's circle dl- -
play
Nothing is m. re In vogue this season Hiin ,
silk , chllfon , ( .at n or crepe boill es. having
the surface of the goods closely covered ! )
row after row of gatheied baby ilhhon. In
this m.innur effective contiasls are arrange ! ,
anil it is even successful in fuvbi.shliig up an
old waist to look lil c new. The hi dice pic
tured hero is a costly importation of hl.ick
silk muslin over a silk foundation , the rib
bon satin-edged and very dec , ratlve. It
shows the Inoviti'blo levuros and full jabot
both conspicuous features of tills soasjn'n
styles.
A delightfully pretty and becoming h.it
Is the one Illustrated deMgncd for all times
and seasons. It is qullo handsome enough
for the theater , and yet Is si ) c mploto ami
simple In style as to seivo for shopping an I
street wear as well. As with nine out of
ten successful hats this season , the frame
Is of velvet , a rich marine blue , on which
rests a pait of the crisp roll of Hilk en
circling the crown tf velvet sliirred into a
high koronotv A niaprnllieoiit rliinostoiiio
ornament holds two dashing qulllb in place ,
directly above the face , whllo glowing color
in the silk at the back provides a pleasing
decoration.
Its very simplicity makes this llttlo neglige
thu moro pleasing. It is of rose-eoloicd
cashmere , trimmed with tea-tinted lace , set
on to fall with jabot fullness down the
front , and hang In deep rilllles over the
hands.
Tortoise Shell
Ornaments
At the present lime tortoise shell orna
ments are very much In evidence , and per
haps the newest and smartest of all these
beautiful things is a munll bouquet holder
that pins on the front of the gown. It Is
devised to hold just enough wat < > r to keep
fresh a few sprigs of lemon verbena , helio
trope , or bit of some other s.veet snmlllng
plant. In shnpo the holder Is similar to a
ftinnll tube about three Inches long. At the
lower end It Is tapering and closed. Tim
top Is finished with a narrow hand of gold ,
and at the back there IK a pin also of gold
with n strong clasp. By Its means the holder
Is always held In an upright position.
The same material Is being much uwd for
the handles of parasols , and very beautiful
ones are to bo found In the fashionable
shops. The handsomest one that 1ms yet been
scon was brought by a New York woman
from Switzerland , where she had It caived
to order for her. It represents a turkey's
claw holding a ball. The ball revolves as
though on Its axis , but it could be readily
neon that the whole thing hail been carved
out of one pleco of the most exquisitely
marked shell. The parasol that It upheld
was lined with whlto nnd covered with a
rare bit of black laco. Hares' and diuku
heads arc also made in tortoise Hindi for
parasol handles , or rather for the handles
of the small umbrella parasols that are
called by the French , en tout ens , as they
answer equally well for rain or shine.
The word largo hardly seems to express
the dimensions of Die back combs at present ,
and they are made either of a solid , severe
ploco of curved shell , or they aio most fan
tastically carved. Cupids drawing chariots
and Hwans Hying about appear to bo favorlto
designs. Of course It would only bo correct
to wear them in the evening , and even so ,
It Is far from being every style of face that
finds them becoming. Hews to pin In the
hair , modeled from those made of wired
ribbons that of late have been so popular ,
are also late novelties. For Biich purposes !
the shell Is used very thin and Is quite trans
parent.
To bold up the willful little scolding locks
HAT -MARINE BLUE VELVET.
at the back of the head , ornaments In shell
can now bo bought in almost any fantastic
design , they have become so popular. It IH
nnw not unusual to see a young toitoiso of
high polish and beautiful colors calmly re
posing upon Hie back of some fair head. A
long pin of shell passew through the turtle's
body on the under side and fafilens It se
curely.
Women as Opticians
The optical department In one of the larg
est New York dry goods shops Is under the
personal direction of a woman. Her name
in Miss E. Van Twinkle. She Is the only
woman optician that she knows of who de
cuples a similar position. Mlns Van Twinkle
wa.s horn and i eared In New York City.
She IB I he daughter of a jeweler and has
always had a natural liking for mechanism.
In all probability , however , she would never
have thought of following her picseiit pro
fession as a livelihood had It not been for
an accident. As early as 1S"I ! she was a
clerk in A. T. Stewart's store , when ; for
night years she had charge of leather goods.
The hiieces-sors of Stewart , desiring to open
BLACK .SILK BODICE
a department for the B.ile of optical goods ,
selected Miss Van Twinklu to prepare to
take charge of the fitting of lens. To this
end they paid for her course ( if instruction
In a downtown optical manufacturing ostuu-
llshmtmt. Every night , after store hours ,
MlHri Van Twlnklo worked In the optical
factory learning the practical part of thu
calling , which Includes the grinding of lens ,
the adjusting ami repairing of spectacle
springs and frames. Ho Interested did she
become in the work that later she pursued
a six mouths' course In theoretical and ap
plied option at her own expense- , and re
ceived a diploma from thu New York Op
ticians' society , which Is an incorporated
body , entitled to give diplomas. The cost
( if a course Is $2i. !
"It requires constant study , " said Mlfifl
Van Twinkle as she deftly filed and inserted
a rivet in an eyeglass. "There la always
something new to learn. The optician alum
only to con eel errortt of refraction by glv
Ing the proper tests and adjusting the cor
rect lens. When errors of lefraction nilso
from disease of the eye , II passes from Hie
optician In the oculist. Thu optician miiHl
be able to detect disease In an eye , and
recommend treatment under an oculist , but
does not pi escribe. "
Miss Van Twinkle has been ambitious for
years to follow a clinic of opticians , but has
been unable to do so owing to the piofes-
slon'H hostility In wnmon entering the Held.
Nn optician will take a woman apprentice
into his shop , unless great pciKOiml Influ
ence Is brought to bear upon him. All Urn
hospitals of New Yon > , aside from those de
voted to the eye alone , have optical clInlcH
under the direction of a medlcril hoard.
They are opposed to women Hludoiito. Miss
Van Twinkle Is hopeful Hint the day Is not
distant when opposition will bo removed.
"It will come , " she maintains , "when
women waken to Ihe ease , cleanliness and
charm of the work , and Iho ample roiminorn-
llon It brings. Its work IH particularly
adapted to a wnman'H delicate loitch and
perception. Like every tradu and profes
sion , the Ilrst requisite is natural aptitude
mid Indefatigable linluslry.
"I can see in it every day , " said Miss Van
Twinkle , "a great opening for women , and
am surprised that moro have not taken It
up. "
Trees in Her Memory
A novel departuio mciiinrallzlng the late
queen of Hungary's lovti for sylvan solitudes
found most appropriate expression In the
publication and distribution on the aiinl-
vornary of the queen's dentlnlay of a hand
some album-like volume by the minister for
agriculture , entitled "Memorial Trees to
( Jiioon Eli/ahoth. " The album IH a record
of the trees planted In her majesty's mem
ory In all poitlous of Hungary during the
last twelvemonth , the minister in question
having , shortly after the queen's demise ,
namely , on the feast ( if St. Ell/nhcth , No
vember 18 , Issued n circular calling alien-
lion In the fact of her deceased majesty's
love for sylvan retieats and urging the
municipal aulhorltlcs and private Individ
uals , In manifestation of loyalty lo her
memory , to planl groves , avenues or single
trees In deserted spots , which groves , ave
nues or Hlnglo Ireeu should In perpetuity
hear the name of nil/.abcth. On turning
over the volume I Mud that In response to
the minister's appeal memorial avenues ,
groves and slnglo trees have been planted
In every Klnglo district throughout the king
dom In Hie nation's /ealoim devotion. From
the date of isHUlng the circular until July 31
the total number of trees planted are cate-
gorl/.cd as follows :
1'lnnwnod trees lWitKI'J :
Leavedwood troon 1,011,170
Fruit trees iti,95 : ! ! )
Klirubs 120,112
Total y,7b7,1ia
TIio ministry Is of the opinion that up to
the present date upward of 3,000,000 tr CB
have been planted. The albums nr pro-
sonled grutullously lo all who have evinced
their loyalty in this particular respect.
