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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Nov. 22, 1896)
r THE OMATTA DAILY BEE : SUNDAY , NOVISMIJEtt 22 , 1890. < f JsW IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. i- _ I t i I I ' fc- > f t * i i * NEW YORK , 'Nov. :0.--Tho first look at lomo of the splendid evening gowns Now York Is Just now show Ing for dinner , opera and other smart use produces the de pressing feeling that only the rich and mighty nro to wear evening gowns this win ter. This , at least , la the way the uniniti ated feel. Hut to the Initiated , that very clever woman , who with a moderate Income yet knows how to follow all of the fashions , this splendor Is only an Incentive to fire her to great deeds and as elegant achievements. Uvcry woman who dresses to nny decree must have at least ono dinner frock , and Inco most of the smartest dinner frocks are dccolloto nowadays , with o Judicious choice of materials ono such costume maybe bo made to serve many dressy occasions. Where economy Is a vital point , a black iklrt and colored bodlco Is always a useful and becoming combination. Then , Instead of the cxpcnslvo velvets , liberty vnlvctccn , which Is the most effective to bo had , will combine beautifully with any of the Imitation yellow laces for the bodice ; for trimmings for other stuffs thcro are many velvet-edged taffeU ribbons In pnlo evening colors , tiny blackbirds and ostrich feathers cheap as dirt , for the necks of gnuzy waists , and black and brown chcnlllo bands to Imitate the dearer furs. Tim QUESTION OF COST. As to the prices of these , the velvet-edged ribbons , which In double ruches and frills are used on skirts of polo wool ma terials , sell In 4-Inch widths at 19 cents the A really beautiful quality of this ribbon Is < 9 cents n yard ; and where only a small quantity Is to bo used , and that on the bodlco , this Is preferable to the cheaper sort. sort.Tho blackbird * can bo had as low as 15 cents apiece , and the chcnlllo bands from 17 cents a yard up. Every thing -Is trimmed with fur this teu ton , and however delicate the color or ma terials of an evening gown , It In frequently emphasized by a note of black. The ways and means of employing this dashing note Bfo manifold. A low bodlco In pale pink , blue , green , or yellow mousscllno may have tiny jacket fronts of black satin overlaid with thick white lace. Or the dash of black may appear only In a night of slender swallows across one shoulder of another low frock ; while an other In while , or some rich flower tint may have the slender waist girdled up as high os the law allows , with a crush belt of black satin or velvet. The furs are used In narrow edgra on both bodices and skirts , and may even ap pear on tulles and tinselled gauzes. PRACTICAL YET CHAHM1NG. Out to return to economies and the all- ZEBELINE CANVAS. round dinner frock which must serve other functions and occasions as well. To bo really practical It must begin \vlth a black skirt , but It can have as many as three distinct colored walsta , ono of velvet If the skirt Is of silk ono of silk , and one of some guazy material tulle , chiffon or ellk muslin. Some of the smartest of tbo new black eklrts are made of zlbcllno canvas over colored silk linings , which show prettily through the meshes. With these a silk or chiffon bodlco Is In keeping , but of course cither must match the silk skirt lining In color. An excellent quality of zlbcllno canvas , fifty-six Inches wide , can be had at { 2 a yard , and with ono of the new bell models only two yards and a half of this will be needed for a skirt. For ! linings there are charming taffeta silks In palo colors at CD cents a yard ; quantity needed for a bell skirt and medium height figure , eight yards In a twenty-two .Inch width. If silk Is preferred for the black skirt faille , pcau de solo and molro , which Is oven more fashionable than the other silks , can bo had in very effective grades from 93 cento to $1.25 a yard. These are all about twenty-two Inches wldo and In a bell model , according to figure , from eight to ten yards are required for a imart Jtipo. The bodlco may have the neck cut rounder or slightly square. Sleeves must bo small , i tiny gathered puff of the same material , or lace , or still smaller affairs simulated by bunching the neck trimmings at the shoul ders. A NOVEL FASHION. Long sleeves with a low neck Is ono of the latest French fads for velvet evening bodices. The smart Parlslcnncs are famous for their bad arms , eo the long slcevo fashion was originated to hldo this defect , while giving the neck which Is usually handsome a chance to bo seen. For the rest the new evening bodlco may have basques or not , -though those finished at the waist with a high , folded belt are most In favor. With this a ohort jacket effect la the thing t alone , a bolero look of any sort being de sirable , and giving a jaunty youthfulnees to the figure. For made-over materials It Is also an especially economical fashion , as several lorts may bo used. A zlbelluo canvas skirt and pretty chiffon bodice , Illustrated on this page , ID the 11 ret economical suggestion. FROCKS FOR YOUNG GIRLS. A pretty and Inexpensive evening drees for a. young woman may bo copied from the design with the accordcon plaited skirt. Hero the material used Is pale green surah illk and whtto guipure lace , but the same effect may bo gained with less expensive materials and oven prove moro ( suitable to a demoiselle. Any sort of thin Jalno berege , wool , crepe or cashmere would reproduce this little toilet delightfully ; indeed if It were made lu France It would bo In wool , French mothers dressing their daughters with correct simplicity. Fine clothes for the French girl come only with marriage vows. For trimming , narrow black velvet Is prettiest for silk , and satin ribbon for wool , Several rows may bo placed at the bottom of the skirt , as Illustrated , and one or moro outline thi > edge of the Jacket which la e'amo ad uklrt and tucked narrowly ell over down to within four Inches of the bottom , where It bangs loose , with a frill effect. "If the gown la of wool a kilted silk blouse , the same color , may bo worn underneath , a black velvet , girdle and crush collar finishIng - Ing peck and waist. la thla caio the close sleeves must be also of silk , with quillings of wool ; but If the gown Is silk the nlcevea will bo very effective If made of the aaino luco as Iho under bodice. Made at home , n blue , white , plnlc or ri l- low delaine , or bege frock , made after this model , and with velvet or ribbon trimmings and a silk blouuo. need not cost as much as J15. Where the costume Is to bo of Bilk , much trouble may bo caved by buying the skirt ready-made. At several cf the largo Broadway - way shops kilted skirts of eurah , In black , white , and n fuw of the dcllcalo color : ) , can bo hail made up , to putting on a hand , for | 10. Material for the bodlco Is easily matched , and In adjusting the skirt It Is wU > o to drape It over a gored petticoat , al- lachlng Iho tuo to the same belt , thus assur ing a good hang. COPYING GOOD MODELS. A very elaborate dinner gown , Indeed , maybe bo copied for a young matron from the design with the striped skirt. For this liberty velveteen and a good quality of taffeta llk would be suitable , and not too extravagant materials. Say the colors of the eklrt arc to be dahlia and white , purple and white , or any other color ; the velvet cf the bodice must match In tint , but the feathers of Iho shoulder knot nro hand somest In black , and black satin under the gulpuro einplecemcnts will glvo further tone. As to the prices of materials , a very good quality of the velveteen may be had In the purple and dahlia colors for CO cents a yard , This has a genuine velvet bloom , which , however , It Is sorrowful to relate , disappears entirely In the cheap , black varieties. For this reason , ono should only Indulge In colored velveteens , and choose them care fully at that , for even at the same price some tints seem .to produce a better texture than others. Among the Louis XVI. designs of the evenIng - Ing taffetas , which Include many beautiful effects In stripes , the skirt may bo found. It may co.it no moro than 98 cents the yard , though n silk at $1.50 would be a better Investment , and In cutting the skirt a bias seam must go down the front gore to make the handsome V effect of the stripes. Hero a word about skirts. One of the most graceful and becoming of the new ovcnlng models Is slightly trained at the back and hangs long and soft about the feet all around , as demonstrated by the striped silk and zlbcllno designs. A llttlo moro material Is needed for this than for the shorter bell affairs , but tbo Improve ment In the wearer's looks moro than bal ances the extra expense. Unless exception ally graceful , nothing Is moro trying than a short , stiff skirt ; they make comic pen wipers of llttlo women. The model of the long skirl. Is very simple. Commonly there Is a very narrow apron , two sldo gores and three loose , tin- stiffened godets at the back. Make one of the black zlbellne canvas , with a white or black silk lining , and you will have the best Investment of your life. FRENCH DESIGNS. A magnificent costume Rcjanc and a Bar tot gown will suggest beautiful effects whore a llttlo extravagance Is possible. Thcso two splendid gowns have been de signed from toilets lately worn by the French actresses who , by the way , set the fashions for Paris at performances given for the czar's entertainment. The gown worn by Mile , llnrtet , who Is Dcrnhardt's successor at the Francals , Is of Ivory-white satin , embroidered In silver ; the sleeves arc tiny puffs of white lace , held to the arm with a band of sliver. Whlto gardenias trim tha bodlco upon the left side , and the dark cdgo to this and skirt Is of priceless black fur. For a moro modest reproduction take the following materials : For train and bodlco of brocaded silk In pink and blue ; pcttlqoat front white tucked silk muslin and puffed chcmlsctto of the same. For sleeves , Imi tation point honlton lace and a mink-brown chcnlllo cdgo to Imltato the fur. All told , the work of a llttlo drcesmaker Included and say making , $8 , and thin cotlon linings a smart evening frock on this order may bo made for $30. The Rejanc gown will bo moro costly loveliness , though even that may bo copied effectively In moderately Inexpensive ma terials. This , In the original , was made of pink peau do hole , with Imperial Russian sable , and garlands of spangled tulle , caught up with splendid jeweled ornaments , trim ming the skirt. The llttlo jacket of point lace over blue satin , the draped alcoves of the same In an edge ; dog collar and belt buckle , diamonds and pearls. IN CHEAPER STUFF. And now for the fun of putting all tlilj It. a shape possible for plain mortals ! For the gown , skirt and bodice , twelve yards of poau de sole , at $1.25 a yard ; for slcevcfl , Imitation point honlton at 35 cents the yard , and shaped jacket fronts of the same. Spangled tulle Is Inclined to bo dear , so the skirt could be garlanded with plam white chiffon , bunched In rosettes of the same at the tacking , to take the place of tbo jeweled ornaments. The little chemi settes should also bo of the chiffon , and the four bands of the skirt mink or Alaska sable. Such a costume , making and silk i "DARTET" COSTUME. linings included , could bo roado for ? CO. Fashioned at home , less than J35 would cover the cost. To bo able to dress well at llttlo expense , however , means ono of two things. You must know qulto as much , \t \ not more , than your cheap dressmaker , or else understand bow to make your clothes yourself. NINA FITCH. _ HOLIDAY Pretty unit Horrlvcnlilc flft to Ex- chmiKc at TliunUdKlvJnu Time. There Is never a tlmo when novelties for the table nro out of season , though during the month preceding Christmas they seem very particularly In demand. Among the latest designs Is a unlijuo dlih for asparagus. If you can Imiglno a strlpo of china eleven or twelve Inches long and seven or eight inches wide , doubled up In tbo shape of the letter U and fastened to a platter of this same ware , you will bavo a very good Idea of the now asparagus dlih. In tbo bottom of this U-shaped device are numerous per forations through which the vegetable may drain JU uuportiuoun .water. This , .with sol of plates to match , Is a desirable acquisi tion to ono's china closet. V6ry pretly toast racks In Dresden are also In great favor. These arc much moro ornate than the plain old silver contrivances , and the graceful scroll work , decorated with bright llttlo flowers , nukes a charming ornament out of the useful article , Pattlu dishes on silver standards arc also among the latest novelties , The cups them- LIBERTY VELVET AND STRIPED TAFFETA. selves ore of exquisite china , and fit flrmly Into their silver holders. Sets of pattlo dishes are now frequently sent as wedding gifts. Thcro are usually six In one case , with forks matching In design the silver standards. China and cut glasa covered with a tracery of silver are to bo among the most popular of this season's wares. The new orange cup Is bound to meet with a welcome from those who have vainly struggled with the problem of eating an orange gracefully. This cup resembles In shape a claret glass considerably enlarged and la In silver. In the cup Itself are two strong prongs that hold the orange flrmlj In place while ono takes out the Juicy con tents with the long , trough-llko orange spoon qulto at his case. Not qulto so new , perhaps , but cquallj convenient , and certainly qulto as beauti ful ore the solid silver muffoneers whlcl distribute so evenly the powdered sugar over waffle and flapjack. An exquisite little device to take the place of a tray In serving n glass of water li the ve'ry lates-t thing from Dresden. This is beautifully decorated plate , In the center of which Is a depression perhaps an Inch and a half deep. In which the glass exactly The newest finger bowls are In ch.irmlnglv colored glass , and rest In half n silver bswl standing on four legs. Even the plain glass linger bowls stand on short legs. A receptacle In Dresden specially designed for growing ferns makes a most lovely center-piece. This Is a circular dish , nine or ten Inches In diameter , and two and a half or three Inches high , provided with nn Inside pan to hold the earth. I was asiurcd that the vcescl was quite deep enough for the proper growth cf the fern. A most convenient spoon , also recently from Dresden , ought to have Its place In every household. It is solely for the purpose of giving medicines and other liquids to people too 111 to sit up. It holds perhaps more than an ordinary table spoon , 'ias almost no handle , and Is entirely roofed over with china , except for the opening at the handle end and the aperture at the tip through which the liquid passes. Punch cupa In all sorts of odd shapes In Venetian and Hohemlan glass are decide lly to the fore this fall. Perhaps the mcst popular designs arc those resembling luscious peaches , apples , pears , etc. Some of the most delicate look as though they were enveloped In a piece of lace. These are naturally very expensive , as the lace-work Is handwrought. Hohemlan glzss puff , boxrs and odd shape cream boxes , pin trays , and hairpin cases r.ro really exquisite affairs , and among the latest additions to the toilet table. There Is a new article also to add to your Dresden toilet set , viz. : a hair receiver 111 iliui luvviy wuiu. 11113 la uu uvui icLti- taclo with a llttlo hole In the top , through which you can put your cast-off tresses , and which opens like a box In the center for convenience of emptying. \VOMI2V IX S\VIT/KIIIA.\U. An They Aru Seen In ( lie liny KlelilH SupiMirdTH of KninlllfH. We saw women bay carriers In the Val de Bregaglla , says a writer In the Christian Register. The hay Is carried In a huge basket , adjusted to the back by a leather strap over the shoulders. As they walk , painfully etooped under those great bur dens , they look like moving stacks. Some times the bay Is carried In great squares of canvas , tied at the four corners. Young children are bowed and prematurely ag by the bearing of these weights on neck and head , when their strength Is so little commensurate to the task. Meet of the hay harvesting In the Enga- dlnc Is done by Italians , who swarm over the Alps to obtain summer employment. But Swiss women , also , arc sadly aged and stiffened and rendered prematurely ugly by field labor. Go where you may In tbo mountains , moat of the hard work seema to be performed by the weaker half of crea tion. No animal In lovely Switzerland Is moro hardly treated , with the exception of the dog. To be sure , a woman Is often har nessed with a dog to a heavy cart , while another woman pushes from behind ; but I have never seen the woman lie down in the dust and pant from exhaustion , with the tongue hanging from the mouth , as I have often scon the dog do. Manifestly , tbo dog Is still undermost In the competition of woman with the lower animals. It Is a pretty sight to see maidens tossing hay In the bright green valleys , under snow peaks , where waterfalls stream from the rocks and glad torrents rush over their pebbly beds ; but the hideous fact of woman's enslavement to labor too hard for her strength Is blflden under the smiling tab leau. Some who shudder at the thought of a woman dropping a ballot into a voting urn can look calmly on at her sad position In the European labor market , can see without trouble of soul , as 1 have. In pros perous Canton Ilerne , a woman harnessed with a cow , and dragging : a load of ma nure. The Swiss women , judging from ap pearances , acem to bo the supporters in stead of the supported. They are active and Indefatigable In labor. They even carry bricks and mortar for the builders up nar row planks and steep ladders. Tbo unfit- test doubtlcm die young , which Is a happy provision of nature ; while the intent grow rigid and stiff , fougbencd Ilko seasoned hickory , with bowed backs , muscles of whipcord , and faces euch an one- sees cu riously carved on walnuts. Tbo men are doubtless laborious , but their labor seems less In evidence than the labor of the women * Nature U Inexorable in these mountains , but her stinging lash falls most heavily on tha shoulders ot the wman. , The national costumes h < W faded out ot tbo Kngadlno , U they ever existed there. Tbo people at least ttut 'Protestant ' portion tion ( moro than half tltd' * populace ) arc a plain , sturdy , sober fol , tlrrlfty , too , In their way , but Joyless gfnupoct. In other parts of Switzerland , whore a few years ago the costumes of the1 WftVrent cantons wcro preserved by the Wotrfofi wallers al hotels , you sec now only T > lalA black gowns nnd white aprons. ThoroiArWprctty silver ornaments in the shop windows , and occa sionally on n Sunday they tappoar In the streets on the person of 'eorAo Swiss dame. But they are fast fading out of existence , nnd moro's Ihe plly , as' they are very pretty and becoming. " Some of the village housed bavo quaint sun dials upon the front ! , ' and , where they are very fine , there Is not ; "Infrequently an Inscription telling when the 'House was built and when restored , and , pcihnps , a pious sentcnco In old German text , The roads through this valley constantly excited our admiration. They seem built for all tlmo and are as well kept as a lady's parlor floor. Thcso beautiful highways over the wildest passes show how effectually a paternal power watches over the safety and comfort of travelers. Some of the prettiest villas upon thcso hillsides are the summer houses of wealthy Swiss cooks , restaurant keepers , confectioners nnd hotel proprietors to bo found In nil the large towns of Europe , nnd who return to their natlvo valleys for rest nnd recreation. Though they may not bo socially distinguished In the places where they have acquired their wealth , they hive as good n nosltlon as need bo desired In their early homes. The castle of the old family has often crumbled on the hill ; but the new families In the vulley survive and flourish hero as elsewhere. HHII C1IAMIIKK GYMNASTICS. A SiitlHfnctnry SiiliNtltutu for Outdoor It Is probable that In no year since the old Greeks trained their daughters In the gym nasium has there been such a universal tendency on the part of women as during the past year to avail themselves of every opportunity for outdoor exercise. They have played golf , cricket and lawn tennis as never before and certainly such an army of wheel- women as hea scoured the country highways and byways this summer was never before dreamed of. The result la that Hypatla. fresh from her books , nnd the lady of fashion , from her golf links , has an expanded chest girth , n normal breathing capacity and evenly developed muscles. To take the place of outdoor exercises dur ing the winter months on admirable system of Rthlctlm has been evolved for women along the Hues In general use In fashionable city gymnasiums and women's colleges , based for the most part on the Swedish system of gymnastics and adapted In each case by carefully prepared Instructors to In dividual requirements. In a recent president's report at Wcllcflley , where there Is a magnificently equipped gym nasium for the girls , and the course made obligatory , It was shown by means of sta tistical diagrams and figures that In six months the mean girth of cheat of members of the crows had Increased one and one-half Inches , while the mean lung capacity had Increased twenty lnchw. Students who ro- abdomlnat mu clen , tends to remove visceral congestion and to restore the vital organs to their natural situation In the abdominal cavity ; And thcro Is scarcely ono man or woman In a hundred whoso organs bavo n normal position , thnnk to the careless hftbltct of silting nnd stnnJIng , and a consequent quent weakened vitality nnd protuberant abdomen. Obesity and Imllgcstlon nr equally Impossible after a few months ot this and similar exercises , properly taken. The legs are slowly raised and lowered by means of the muscles of. the limbs and abdomen , and without ncalstnncc from the trunk or arms. Modifications are rotary movements of each leg separately , and ris ing to sitting posture , while yet the arms remain folded above the bead , or better WALL MOVEMENTS. still , over the chest. Nutrition to the sys tem at largo results as a matter of course by the Increased flow Induced of Ihc general circulation. None of these exercises require gym nasium apparatus , nnd hundreds ot others are provided admirable In design nnd effect. KATHURINE STALEY. SHAAVI.S OF .SIir.TIAMS. A IIIwli IU'Krc' of Art Kmiiloycil In AVt-n\liiK Them. Putting asldo other branches ot Shetland hosiery , the Shetland shawl may be roughly divided Into Iwo classes "shawls" and "clouds. " It Is unnecessary to explain the nature of the shawl , says the Pall Mall Gazette , but there may be a few persons who know not that a "cloud" In northern language Is but the small , elongated form of shawl , and Is a wrap In grcal request for evening wear by the women of London , and the world. Of these shawls and clouds there are , technically speaking , three distinct kinds : First , the most elaborate and expensive Is that which Is known as "crape" work , In which the knitting Is HO delicate as to resemble semble- appearance the most finely Inter woven gatizo wire. Next In quality nnd value to this Is the "laco" work , the name of which explains Its nature. The third sort Is that of the far coarser shawls and clouds known ns "hap. " The last are much heavier In weight and rougher In texture. Yet In some cf them tbo different shades of color FLOOR EXERCISES. colved no training ( this Is also statistical ) enter collcgo without normal lun capacity and actually lose an appreciable degree ot what they have In six months. Happily , for a moderate sum , every city now affords facilities for private lessons and clasd work In the most , approved sj tcmn ot health-producing gymncntlcs. The coumo everywhere begins without the use of ap paratus. Breathing exercises are taught , flexing and stretching for the body and limbs and all sorts of Umbering gymnastics are used for a few weeks to get unused muscles Into pllablo working order. Figures 1 and 2 Illustrate dimple but scien tific movcmcn'.n that develop muscles of the llmta , hips and waists that are usually so flexible from disuse that even these move ments at fir at Induce positive pain. In figure 2 the leg slowly rises In the perpendicular plane of the body as far na possible , where It la held for a few mo mentR , and then slowly falls back by weigh of the muscles of the leg and hip cnly , to Hi first position. Each action of this act at exercises may be repeated six or eight times on each side. These two exercises Induce extreme strength and flexibility of the nalat and limbs , which means a rounding out and a compactcr fibre of muscle ; hence there Is no pcaslblllty of Increasing waist and ankle measurements unduly. In figure 3 the anterior portion of the hands and arms , the chest , abdomen and the legs nro affected. The body takes the f HIP AND LEG EXERCISES. position ebown for a few moments , then straightens Itself BO that it forms a line diagonal lo that of tbo arms. It then gently falls back into a curved position , Tbo top ot a bedstead or a mantel will answer per fectly as a means for obtaining tbo position. Flfiuro i Illustrates an extremely useful and vluoroun movement that affuci * tlia form a most beautiful effect. Such Is the art employed In their weaving that the graduations of tone merge them selves about Imperceptibly one In the other. And this Is moro remarkable from the fact that the Shetlander Is not fond of "dyes , " nnd only uses them to render salable a piece of holsery that has , so to speak , gcno wrong , The colors are tbo natural ones of the sheep the blacks , browns , grays and all whites of their wool. Only In Fair Isle , midway between Shetland and Orkney , Is this rule departed from. There , It is said , some vessels of the Spanish Armada were stranded ' during the fleet's un willing progress round the north of Scot land , and nearly 200 men sought the hospi tality of the islanders. A portion of these the latter , surreptitiously cr otherwise , threw over the clilf. The rest they kept , and wcro taught by them to extract from herbs certain dyes , such as color-loving Southrons reveled In , and to apply them lo their hosiery. The result la that today the Fair Isle shawls and stockings contain checks and lines so gaudy as positively to sully the general sombcrncss of the great Island industry. SIIK IIOSSKS TUB HAXCII. A California Woman Who Unlxon IVuI- milM mill I.'liul iiiiii > iiH KniNH. Mrs. Harriet W. R. Strong Is a ranch woman of California , where the species flourishes. She is not , however , a horny- handed daughter of toll. On the contrary , she Is described as dainty , fragile , shrewd , daring , cordial , gentle-faced. Her step is quick , her volco low and musical. She Is an accomplished linguist , a musician , a painter , the president of a fashionable- club , and her pampas plumes are tbo finest In tbo country. Nobody would think of calling Mrs. Strong a narrow or one-sided person. Versatility and walnuts are her strongest points. The former has expanded without hindrance. The walnuts haven't done qulto so well as they might If Mrs. Strong hadn't set out the pampas grass among the trees , but she means to 'mako that all right very soon. The pampas plants will have to move , but they will bo merely transplanted. It Is a fact , without any low attempt at punning , that Mrs. Strong plutnts herself on her suc cess In this branch of her ranching. Mrs. Strong's husband died In 1888 , and his widow very quickly found that her agents were Improving their exceptional opportuni ties for running the business Inlo the ground. This Is a very easy thing to do with a ranch. She decided , therefore , to run It herself , and , as Is generally the case when a woman takes hold of a business , she got herself well laughed at for her notions. When she spent $700 on pampas plants tbo men of the neighborhood wcro 50 amused that they set in the sun for hours together nnd had a beautiful tlmo telling each other what a fool a woman was when It came to busi ness. They don't do that now. Mrs , Strong har vests 300.000 plumes from her twenty-eight acres and sells them for 11C to | 20 a thou sand. This Is in addition to tbo walnuts , which are In the same land , but bavo been somewhat stunted by the pampas , The plumes are gathered In September , and Iho work has to bo done promptly. Sixty-five laborers harvest the twenty-eight acres The plumes grows up In a long sheath as an ear of corn does , and It must bo cut before - fore tbo shcalh opens , lest the sun spoils the fronds. The plumes are first stripped and taken to Iho drying place. If they are put out in the evening they are whlto and ready to bo takea up by aiorulnu. Tbco they gn to the curing house , where they nro kept six weeks. In addition to Iho pampas grass , which IR n excellent food for cattle , Mrs , Strong raises walnuts , oranges , olives and figs. She Is president of the American Walnut Grower * AsooctAlton. Bho Is Interested In Irrigation and mining ncheturs , nnd 1ms re cently pAtented a reservoir system for Im pounding the debris of hydraulic mining. She thinks It will octtlo matters Mllsfnc- torlly both to miners And farmers. She has patented a process for damming up And storing walcr for Irrigation by using the reversed arch. Furthermore , she hns a hobby. She dreams of founding nn Institu tion where woir.cn may loam the principles of the science of business. She Is now Iho president of a business league , which she hopes to sco row unlll II fulfills her hopes , Altogether , Mrs. Strong appears to bo ns marvelous . product of the Pacific slope as It has turned out for a long tlmo. 11RAT1SD SIIOI3S KOU WIXTKlt. A Hot AVitlcr riiiMHU'o ConecnliMl I" tin : llool. P.\ul Wonnebcrgcr , a resident of Dresden , the capital of Sarony , hn devised a beatable shoe , which will cause his name to bo blrsscd wherever mortals suffer from cold feet dur ing the winter season. The apparatus con- slstc of a tiny holler nnd furnace in the heel and solo of the shoe , which causes n con tinuous circulation of warm water around the extremities. Within the heel of the huiUablo sbcc , which Is hollowed out for the purpose , the Inventor has placed a glowing substance similar In Its natuto to that used In the familiar Japanese hand warmers. The soles of the shoes are hollowed out for the reception of a rubber bag covered with asbctos , and containing the water that keeps the feet warm. This water communicates with the recep tacle In the heel of the shoe , nnd derives Its heat from the heated substance located there. When the owner of n pair of heatnblo shoes wishes to go out Into the cold and sloppy street ho opens the receptacle In the heel of the shoe , lights the punk Ilko sub stance , closes the perforated baud that holds It In place nnd then sallies forth to bid defiance to hla old enemy , the chills. Walking keeps the water circulating , and at every step the grateful warmth Is felt , the upper ns well as the lower surface of the feet feeling Its effects. There Is no danger of the feet being uncomfortably wnrmi'd , for the water cannot be heated by the tiny furnace In the heel to n beat more than 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The Inventor has provided against the bursting of the little holler by the Insertion In the soles of a small safety valve. The shoes are n trifle heavier than the ordinary onfs. The sole Is but very little thicker than that ot the wet weather shoe sold by the Chicago dealers. The Inventor Is at work on n new shoe that will be uo heavier than the ordinary one. Kan III oil No ten. Gold-linked chains nro worn around the waist over sable and Persian lamb jackets. Rcppcd fabrics In both small and heavy cords grow constantly in fashionable favor. Iridescent mohairs of heavy weight arc much used for traveling costumes Ibis sea son. Shaggy-haired vicuna cloths which resem ble the Angora shawls of long ago arc made up Into gowns for midwinter wear. Molro effects In silk , wool and velvets arc decidedly the thing for this season , nnd all the new flowered silks have a molro ground. Hyacinth blue and a certain palo rosy shade of mauve Is a very fashionable French color mixture , , and as n rule Is a becoming one. one.Tho now shades In gloves are pearl , cham pagne , gray , mushroom and tan , and very light tints of thcso colors are worn In the evening. The newest and most popular colors for evening toilets nro pale and golden yellow , silver gray , mauve , whlto and rose In many lovely tints. A new invention In the way of Imitation chinchilla 1s said to bo a great success , es pecially In narrow bands for trimming and In the matter of price. Old-fashioned China ribbon In the narrow width baa como back again nnd Is used for embroidering sprays with gold and silver thread arnd Roman pearls. All sorta of collars , pelerines , and small shoulder capes of fur are worn this season , and they are made of seal , mink , sable , grebe and chinchilla , alone , or In a combination of any two kinds. Patterns In black , with silk underweavco In contrasting color showing faintly between - tween the cords , are particularly pretty- black and cerise , black and gold , mauve , apple green , and like contrasts. The fancy for fabrics with black and colors of various klmls Interwoven has brought out many twilled goods of different weights. These make neat and pretty gowrs for matronly women. Repped fabrics In a mixture of silk and wool are among the latest Importations of dress goods , and a new material , called poll do chevre , which Is very smooth and glossy , Is being made up Into dressy gowns. Ovcrsklrts come slowly but surely to the fore , and the long rounded shapes are about equally popular with the Vandyke or pointed models. There is no particular enthusiasm , however , over the fashion in any of Ita guises. Ribbons or very narrow galleons , spangled very slightly or merely at the edge , make an effective Inexpensive garniture which can bo arranged for nockbanda , belts , borders to simulate box-pleats , bretcllcs , boleros , and the like. Many of the utility dress skirts for winter , when made up of single-width goods , are ot half-clrclo shape , with the slnrle scam up the back , while- others , of narrow width silk and other materials , have gored breadths and are full at the back. An Imported collet Is made of black vel ours do nerd bordered with elegant Van dyke patterned jet work , and finished with a high Vandyked collar , also Jet edged. Three narrow bands of black Persian lamb surround this full collar. The loose empire coils grow In popularity among youthful wearers and slender ma Irons. Some 'of the more recent models have stitched bands simulating boxplcats , and a few have their straight fronts open over fur vests. They have loose bishop sleeves with fur cuffs and a very extravagant looking Mc- dlcl collar edged with a fur band. Fancy velvets nnd fine velveteens with small crushed patterns are used for blouse waists , sleeves and bodlco trimmings gen erally , and a novelty In fancy velvet has a chlno silk ground covered with a scant vel vet pllo or scattered over the surface In pretty scroll patterns , which produce a lovely sheen and wonderful blending of colors. Beaded and embroidered trimmings In shades of light blue , pink , mauve , gold and green are In greater variety than ever and .Appear in various degrees of elegance and extravagance in evening , afternoon and morning gowns. Ono of the recent revivals Is the bugle bead , which comes In every color , 'and is a very effective element of the now trimmings. Among fashionable cloaklngs are silk seal plushes In six different grades , each grade about forty-eight Inches wide ; velours dj nerd in five different grades , this thirty-two Inches wldo ; plain and plaldcd beaver cloths , an endless variety of fancy bouclcs , richly dyed kerseys , soft fleecy wool diagonals , French casslmcrcs , a tempting invoice ot ladles' cloths , checked cheviots of English manufacture and fancy canvas and basket cloths in various handsome color mixtures. Ermlno and grcbo bavo como to the fore In the mixture of Iwo and three different furs on ono garment , and these also com mand a high price. Grcbo and sealskin wraps of very elegant description are of fered for sale at almost prohibitive prices. A great point in the purchase of now seal garments is Iho dcptb of color and tbo deep velvety closeness of the fur. Although novel wraps show sealskin combined with grebe , chinchilla , ermine or other costly fur , the choicest sealskins are combined wllh no other sort. F in I I tic Nott'N. Lady Colin Campbell li an enthusiast on tbo subject ot fencing , and is very skilful In tbo science. Mrs. Beck Meyer , who represented Scan * dlnavla during the International congress of women at the World's fair. Is now lecturing at Stanford university , California , Rev , Holer.'Van Anderson has become pas tor of tbo new Church of Higher LifeIn Boston , She was born In Iowa , Is about 35 years old , and Is fair and fashionable , Mlta Georgia Richards , who occupies the position of county cleric in Arapahoq county , Colorado , receives n sslnry of J5.000 n the Inrgcnt paid to nt.y woman official Iq the west , Christine Nllsson , Iho Counted * do CHS * Miranda , bought \Vnttenu' "Dlnno * U llAln , " recently sold nt auction In Paris , to * 107,000 francs. The picture had been pro * vlously offered to the Louvre museum toi 100.000 francs. . The Baroness Adolph do Rothschild nt hci Brltuny villa In ono of the walls of hel boudoir hns a sliding p.inel ot plnteRlnsi/ through which at pleasure she can RCO Into her cow palnct ) , where the animals feed fronj marble mangers , and are milked Into sllvel palls. Mrs. Phoebe Itnnnfonl 1s An original Intcf- prcter of scripture. The thirteenth vcrsai of 11 Kings , xxlll , says : "And I will wlp up Jerusalem ns a man wlpcth a dUh , wip ing It nnd turning It upsldo down , " Mrs. Hanaford sajs this plainly means that In those das men wcro engaged In menial work. Mrs. Werner , a Now York Quaker , Is threatened with expulsion from her church because she has- been made receiver of the estate of a liquor dealer. She has Intl-- mated her Intentions In the matter by say ing that If the Friends expel her It will be easier to find another church than an other receivership. Three young Indian gills bavo recently completed the course for trained mimes In Iho Philadelphia hospital. Miss Phocbo Hood , ono of the young women , Is the daughter of a Pawnee chief , Miss Kato Greened Is of the Wynndotto tribe , and Miss Lily Wind ot Canada belongs to the tribe of the Ottnwas. Mrs. Clayton W. Carson of Chicago , a leader In her set , young , handsome , talenlcd , nnd fascinating , has become a new star In the firmament ot rifle shots. Mrs. Carson has made a great record not only In the grounds of several gun clubs , but on the North Dakota prairies , where she has bagged Hying fowl with astonishing success. At Andovcr , Me. , there lives n real daugh ter of the revolution , Mrs. Catherine Mont gomery Poor. She Is SO years old. Her father , John Alexander Montgomery , was a volunteer and afterward an olllccr under Washington , nnd nt the close of the war ho received a ring from Washington ns a tokenof recognition for meritorious con duct. At Hyde Park , Mass. , there Is an other "real daughter , " Mrs. Adeline Gould- Ing. Her father. General William Hlldreth , died at Concord In 1S13 , when she was 3 years old. Mrs. Labouchcro some fifteen years ago was known ns the beautiful Henrietta Hod- son , nn actress skilled In the best traditions of the old English stage. She \\oti her fame chiefly nt the Royalty and nt the ' old-fashioned house In Queen's theater , nn - Long Acre. Miss Hudson was llttlo mora than n child when her rendering of tha part ot Ariel In "The Tempest" gave her a leading postlon among the younger ac tresses of the dny. Her great part was that of Lady Gay Spanker In "London As surance. " Louise Truax Hlbbard Is n most remark able llttlo ladof 13 years who bids fair to rival the noted Anna Shaw as a whistler. Her talent ) was discovered by ac- cldcnl about three years ago , and slnco then she hns delighted many audiences lu Chicago , Detroit , Washington , ( Baltimore and Phila delphia. She has , naturally , been much In demand for social gatherings , and In this work has won golden opinions , not only by her blrdllko notes , but by her modcsl and unaffected manner. The lttlo | womnn be longs to ono of the oldest families In De troit , but has recently gone to New York with her mother In search of fresh laurels , Mrs. Inez Sprague , the second wlfo of Gov ernor Sprague of Rhode Island , Is achieving : such success with her vocal music that she will , no doubt , become moro famous thnn her predecessor , Kate Chase. The present Mrs. Sprague Is a very beautiful Virginian , be longing to ono of the F. F. V.'B. As a young girl she was qulto accomplished , singing well to her own accompaniment. Some two years ago she had her volco tried , and , by the advice of a master , went to > Purls to have her voice cultivated. She ap plied herself assiduously with the best of re sults. Her volco has a marvelously long ; range , with u full middle register , and great dramatic power. Mrs. A. L. Hnskcll , mayor of the town of Gaylord , Kan. , the only town on' earth ruled by women , has so well managed Iho place that she and her assistant officers govern' that It is out ot debt which Is moro than can bo said of many places ruled by men. At the last election Mrs. llaskcll received two votes for every ono that was cast for the main opponent who ran against her. Her husband Is a banker and stockowner , and she has the most freedom a woman could ask , Sbo Is a democrat and make ? her talks very prac tical and to the point. She Is the embodi ment ot good health and Is a very attrac tive woman. She dresses well and knows the advantage of a' good gown to catch the people. Hair Medicine When the hair begins to fall out and lose lit lustre and beauty by turning gray or faded , what more evidence Is needed to prove that Us hcallli li affected ? am ! that it needs medicine ? Na more , I assure you , for there Is a cause for every symptom thattlte hair gives of turning gray or losing Its beauty In any form. I'or as the Imlr la a part of the human body , it Is subject to ailment ns well ns any other part , and therefore bhouUI be treated intelligently. Hut contrary to thU commou'bcnsc logic , no greater insult or worsd abuse could lie heaped ii | > ou this defenseless member of our person than the use of hair dye. To color the poor Kick hair with hair dye , anil thereby drown Its feeble cry for nourishment , is In Itself a blnand a crime against nature. Shaina on Ignorant humanity that will not yield to tha laws of nature and study the needs of their own body. body.Mme. . M. Yale's , Hair Tonic Is a medicine for curing sick hair. It la the only remedy on record known to restore the natural color to grey hair. It nourialic * the roots anil gives circulation to the oil ducts , permeating It with nature's own coloring matter that ( Iowa through the channels of the hair wheu It Is lu an healthful state as faithfully as the warm blood does through our veins. Mine , Yale's Hair Tonic Is the result of a care ful analysis of the human hair by Mine. Yalr , that wonderful uoman chemist and scientist , who guarantee * Yale's HalrToulc tocontain pre cisely the natural constituents of the hair's own matter prepared in a chemical form. It stops the hair falling In from twenty-four hour * to one week. Cures Dandruff ; Rodem dry , harsh hair : makes the hair soft , glossy and Huffy ; keeps it In curl , and cures all manner of scalp diseases ni.d hair ailments , producing a growth of luxurf- nnt hair of Its own rich , natural color , no matter what that may be black , bloude or brown. I'or children and adults mules or females. f i.oo per bottle ; six for fj.oo , mii.M.YAU : < , Ifeitut/and Compl.ilon Tumplu of Utuutr , 119 oUt * Btr c OCMJCM SELL If