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THE OMATTA DAILY BEE : SUNDAY , NOVISMIJEtt 22 , 1890.
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JsW
IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. i-
_
I t i I I ' fc- > f t * i i *
NEW YORK , 'Nov. :0.--Tho first look at
lomo of the splendid evening gowns Now
York Is Just now show Ing for dinner , opera
and other smart use produces the de
pressing feeling that only the rich and
mighty nro to wear evening gowns this win
ter. This , at least , la the way the uniniti
ated feel. Hut to the Initiated , that very
clever woman , who with a moderate Income
yet knows how to follow all of the fashions ,
this splendor Is only an Incentive to fire her
to great deeds and as elegant achievements.
Uvcry woman who dresses to nny decree
must have at least ono dinner frock , and
Inco most of the smartest dinner frocks
are dccolloto nowadays , with o Judicious
choice of materials ono such costume maybe
bo made to serve many dressy occasions.
Where economy Is a vital point , a black
iklrt and colored bodlco Is always a useful
and becoming combination.
Then , Instead of the cxpcnslvo velvets ,
liberty vnlvctccn , which Is the most effective
to bo had , will combine beautifully with
any of the Imitation yellow laces for the
bodice ; for trimmings for other stuffs thcro
are many velvet-edged taffeU ribbons In
pnlo evening colors , tiny blackbirds and
ostrich feathers cheap as dirt , for the necks
of gnuzy waists , and black and brown
chcnlllo bands to Imitate the dearer furs.
Tim QUESTION OF COST.
As to the prices of these , the velvet-edged
ribbons , which In double ruches and frills
are used on skirts of polo wool ma
terials , sell In 4-Inch widths at 19 cents the
A really beautiful quality of this ribbon
Is < 9 cents n yard ; and where only a small
quantity Is to bo used , and that on the
bodlco , this Is preferable to the cheaper
sort.
sort.Tho blackbird * can bo had as low as 15
cents apiece , and the chcnlllo bands from 17
cents a yard up.
Every thing -Is trimmed with fur this teu
ton , and however delicate the color or ma
terials of an evening gown , It In frequently
emphasized by a note of black. The ways
and means of employing this dashing note
Bfo manifold. A low bodlco In pale pink ,
blue , green , or yellow mousscllno may have
tiny jacket fronts of black satin overlaid
with thick white lace.
Or the dash of black may appear only In
a night of slender swallows across one
shoulder of another low frock ; while an
other In while , or some rich flower tint may
have the slender waist girdled up as high
os the law allows , with a crush belt of
black satin or velvet.
The furs are used In narrow edgra on
both bodices and skirts , and may even ap
pear on tulles and tinselled gauzes.
PRACTICAL YET CHAHM1NG.
Out to return to economies and the all-
ZEBELINE CANVAS.
round dinner frock which must serve other
functions and occasions as well.
To bo really practical It must begin \vlth a
black skirt , but It can have as many as
three distinct colored walsta , ono of velvet
If the skirt Is of silk ono of silk , and one
of some guazy material tulle , chiffon or
ellk muslin.
Some of the smartest of tbo new black
eklrts are made of zlbcllno canvas over
colored silk linings , which show prettily
through the meshes. With these a silk or
chiffon bodlco Is In keeping , but of course
cither must match the silk skirt lining In
color.
An excellent quality of zlbcllno canvas ,
fifty-six Inches wide , can be had at { 2 a yard ,
and with ono of the new bell models only
two yards and a half of this will be needed
for a skirt. For ! linings there are charming
taffeta silks In palo colors at CD cents a
yard ; quantity needed for a bell skirt and
medium height figure , eight yards In a
twenty-two .Inch width. If silk Is preferred
for the black skirt faille , pcau de solo and
molro , which Is oven more fashionable than
the other silks , can bo had in very effective
grades from 93 cento to $1.25 a yard.
These are all about twenty-two Inches
wldo and In a bell model , according to figure ,
from eight to ten yards are required for a
imart Jtipo.
The bodlco may have the neck cut rounder
or slightly square. Sleeves must bo small ,
i tiny gathered puff of the same material , or
lace , or still smaller affairs simulated by
bunching the neck trimmings at the shoul
ders.
A NOVEL FASHION.
Long sleeves with a low neck Is ono of
the latest French fads for velvet evening
bodices. The smart Parlslcnncs are famous
for their bad arms , eo the long slcevo fashion
was originated to hldo this defect , while
giving the neck which Is usually handsome
a chance to bo seen.
For the rest the new evening bodlco may
have basques or not , -though those finished
at the waist with a high , folded belt are
most In favor.
With this a ohort jacket effect la the thing
t alone , a bolero look of any sort being de
sirable , and giving a jaunty youthfulnees to
the figure.
For made-over materials It Is also an
especially economical fashion , as several
lorts may bo used.
A zlbelluo canvas skirt and pretty chiffon
bodice , Illustrated on this page , ID the 11 ret
economical suggestion.
FROCKS FOR YOUNG GIRLS.
A pretty and Inexpensive evening drees for
a. young woman may bo copied from the
design with the accordcon plaited skirt.
Hero the material used Is pale green surah
illk and whtto guipure lace , but the same
effect may bo gained with less expensive
materials and oven prove moro ( suitable to a
demoiselle. Any sort of thin Jalno berege ,
wool , crepe or cashmere would reproduce
this little toilet delightfully ; indeed if It
were made lu France It would bo In wool ,
French mothers dressing their daughters
with correct simplicity. Fine clothes for the
French girl come only with marriage vows.
For trimming , narrow black velvet Is
prettiest for silk , and satin ribbon for wool ,
Several rows may bo placed at the bottom
of the skirt , as Illustrated , and one or moro
outline thi > edge of the Jacket which la
e'amo ad uklrt and tucked narrowly ell over
down to within four Inches of the bottom ,
where It bangs loose , with a frill effect.
"If the gown la of wool a kilted silk blouse ,
the same color , may bo worn underneath , a
black velvet , girdle and crush collar finishIng -
Ing peck and waist.
la thla caio the close sleeves must be
also of silk , with quillings of wool ; but If
the gown Is silk the nlcevea will bo very
effective If made of the aaino luco as Iho
under bodice.
Made at home , n blue , white , plnlc or ri l-
low delaine , or bege frock , made after this
model , and with velvet or ribbon trimmings
and a silk blouuo. need not cost as much
as J15.
Where the costume Is to bo of Bilk , much
trouble may bo caved by buying the skirt
ready-made. At several cf the largo Broadway -
way shops kilted skirts of eurah , In black ,
white , and n fuw of the dcllcalo color : ) , can
bo hail made up , to putting on a hand , for
| 10. Material for the bodlco Is easily
matched , and In adjusting the skirt It Is
wU > o to drape It over a gored petticoat , al-
lachlng Iho tuo to the same belt , thus assur
ing a good hang.
COPYING GOOD MODELS.
A very elaborate dinner gown , Indeed , maybe
bo copied for a young matron from the
design with the striped skirt.
For this liberty velveteen and a good
quality of taffeta llk would be suitable , and
not too extravagant materials. Say the
colors of the eklrt arc to be dahlia and white ,
purple and white , or any other color ; the
velvet cf the bodice must match In tint , but
the feathers of Iho shoulder knot nro hand
somest In black , and black satin under the
gulpuro einplecemcnts will glvo further tone.
As to the prices of materials , a very good
quality of the velveteen may be had In the
purple and dahlia colors for CO cents a yard ,
This has a genuine velvet bloom , which ,
however , It Is sorrowful to relate , disappears
entirely In the cheap , black varieties.
For this reason , ono should only Indulge
In colored velveteens , and choose them care
fully at that , for even at the same price
some tints seem .to produce a better texture
than others.
Among the Louis XVI. designs of the evenIng -
Ing taffetas , which Include many beautiful
effects In stripes , the skirt may bo found.
It may co.it no moro than 98 cents the
yard , though n silk at $1.50 would be a
better Investment , and In cutting the skirt
a bias seam must go down the front gore to
make the handsome V effect of the stripes.
Hero a word about skirts. One of the
most graceful and becoming of the new
ovcnlng models Is slightly trained at the
back and hangs long and soft about the
feet all around , as demonstrated by the
striped silk and zlbcllno designs. A llttlo
moro material Is needed for this than for
the shorter bell affairs , but tbo Improve
ment In the wearer's looks moro than bal
ances the extra expense. Unless exception
ally graceful , nothing Is moro trying than
a short , stiff skirt ; they make comic pen
wipers of llttlo women.
The model of the long skirl. Is very
simple. Commonly there Is a very narrow
apron , two sldo gores and three loose , tin-
stiffened godets at the back. Make one of
the black zlbellne canvas , with a white or
black silk lining , and you will have the best
Investment of your life.
FRENCH DESIGNS.
A magnificent costume Rcjanc and a Bar
tot gown will suggest beautiful effects
whore a llttlo extravagance Is possible.
Thcso two splendid gowns have been de
signed from toilets lately worn by the
French actresses who , by the way , set the
fashions for Paris at performances given
for the czar's entertainment. The gown
worn by Mile , llnrtet , who Is Dcrnhardt's
successor at the Francals , Is of Ivory-white
satin , embroidered In silver ; the sleeves arc
tiny puffs of white lace , held to the arm
with a band of sliver. Whlto gardenias
trim tha bodlco upon the left side , and the
dark cdgo to this and skirt Is of priceless
black fur.
For a moro modest reproduction take the
following materials : For train and bodlco
of brocaded silk In pink and blue ; pcttlqoat
front white tucked silk muslin and puffed
chcmlsctto of the same. For sleeves , Imi
tation point honlton lace and a mink-brown
chcnlllo cdgo to Imltato the fur. All told , the
work of a llttlo drcesmaker Included and
say making , $8 , and thin cotlon linings
a smart evening frock on this order may bo
made for $30.
The Rejanc gown will bo moro costly
loveliness , though even that may bo copied
effectively In moderately Inexpensive ma
terials.
This , In the original , was made of pink
peau do hole , with Imperial Russian sable ,
and garlands of spangled tulle , caught up
with splendid jeweled ornaments , trim
ming the skirt. The llttlo jacket of point
lace over blue satin , the draped alcoves of
the same In an edge ; dog collar and belt
buckle , diamonds and pearls.
IN CHEAPER STUFF.
And now for the fun of putting all tlilj
It. a shape possible for plain mortals !
For the gown , skirt and bodice , twelve
yards of poau de sole , at $1.25 a yard ; for
slcevcfl , Imitation point honlton at 35 cents
the yard , and shaped jacket fronts of the
same.
Spangled tulle Is Inclined to bo dear , so
the skirt could be garlanded with plam
white chiffon , bunched In rosettes of the
same at the tacking , to take the place of
tbo jeweled ornaments. The little chemi
settes should also bo of the chiffon , and
the four bands of the skirt mink or Alaska
sable. Such a costume , making and silk
i "DARTET" COSTUME.
linings included , could bo roado for ? CO.
Fashioned at home , less than J35 would
cover the cost.
To bo able to dress well at llttlo expense ,
however , means ono of two things. You
must know qulto as much , \t \ not more , than
your cheap dressmaker , or else understand
bow to make your clothes yourself.
NINA FITCH.
_
HOLIDAY
Pretty unit Horrlvcnlilc flft to Ex-
chmiKc at TliunUdKlvJnu Time.
There Is never a tlmo when novelties for
the table nro out of season , though during
the month preceding Christmas they seem
very particularly In demand. Among the
latest designs Is a unlijuo dlih for asparagus.
If you can Imiglno a strlpo of china eleven
or twelve Inches long and seven or eight
inches wide , doubled up In tbo shape of the
letter U and fastened to a platter of this
same ware , you will bavo a very good Idea
of the now asparagus dlih. In tbo bottom
of this U-shaped device are numerous per
forations through which the vegetable may
drain JU uuportiuoun .water. This , .with
sol of plates to match , Is a desirable acquisi
tion to ono's china closet.
V6ry pretly toast racks In Dresden are
also In great favor. These arc much moro
ornate than the plain old silver contrivances ,
and the graceful scroll work , decorated with
bright llttlo flowers , nukes a charming
ornament out of the useful article ,
Pattlu dishes on silver standards arc also
among the latest novelties , The cups them-
LIBERTY VELVET AND STRIPED
TAFFETA.
selves ore of exquisite china , and fit flrmly
Into their silver holders. Sets of pattlo
dishes are now frequently sent as wedding
gifts. Thcro are usually six In one case ,
with forks matching In design the silver
standards. China and cut glasa covered with
a tracery of silver are to bo among the most
popular of this season's wares.
The new orange cup Is bound to meet
with a welcome from those who have vainly
struggled with the problem of eating an
orange gracefully. This cup resembles In
shape a claret glass considerably enlarged
and la In silver. In the cup Itself are two
strong prongs that hold the orange flrmlj
In place while ono takes out the Juicy con
tents with the long , trough-llko orange
spoon qulto at his case.
Not qulto so new , perhaps , but cquallj
convenient , and certainly qulto as beauti
ful ore the solid silver muffoneers whlcl
distribute so evenly the powdered sugar over
waffle and flapjack.
An exquisite little device to take the place
of a tray In serving n glass of water li the
ve'ry lates-t thing from Dresden. This is
beautifully decorated plate , In the center
of which Is a depression perhaps an Inch
and a half deep. In which the glass exactly
The newest finger bowls are In ch.irmlnglv
colored glass , and rest In half n silver bswl
standing on four legs. Even the plain glass
linger bowls stand on short legs.
A receptacle In Dresden specially designed
for growing ferns makes a most lovely
center-piece. This Is a circular dish , nine
or ten Inches In diameter , and two and a
half or three Inches high , provided with nn
Inside pan to hold the earth. I was asiurcd
that the vcescl was quite deep enough for
the proper growth cf the fern.
A most convenient spoon , also recently
from Dresden , ought to have Its place In
every household. It is solely for the purpose
of giving medicines and other liquids to
people too 111 to sit up. It holds perhaps
more than an ordinary table spoon , 'ias
almost no handle , and Is entirely roofed
over with china , except for the opening at
the handle end and the aperture at the tip
through which the liquid passes.
Punch cupa In all sorts of odd shapes In
Venetian and Hohemlan glass are decide lly
to the fore this fall. Perhaps the mcst
popular designs arc those resembling
luscious peaches , apples , pears , etc. Some of
the most delicate look as though they were
enveloped In a piece of lace. These are
naturally very expensive , as the lace-work
Is handwrought.
Hohemlan glzss puff , boxrs and odd shape
cream boxes , pin trays , and hairpin cases r.ro
really exquisite affairs , and among the latest
additions to the toilet table.
There Is a new article also to add to your
Dresden toilet set , viz. : a hair receiver
111 iliui luvviy wuiu. 11113 la uu uvui icLti-
taclo with a llttlo hole In the top , through
which you can put your cast-off tresses , and
which opens like a box In the center for
convenience of emptying.
\VOMI2V IX S\VIT/KIIIA.\U.
An They Aru Seen In ( lie liny KlelilH
SupiMirdTH of KninlllfH.
We saw women bay carriers In the Val de
Bregaglla , says a writer In the Christian
Register. The hay Is carried In a huge
basket , adjusted to the back by a leather
strap over the shoulders. As they walk ,
painfully etooped under those great bur
dens , they look like moving stacks. Some
times the bay Is carried In great squares of
canvas , tied at the four corners. Young
children are bowed and prematurely ag
by the bearing of these weights on neck
and head , when their strength Is so little
commensurate to the task.
Meet of the hay harvesting In the Enga-
dlnc Is done by Italians , who swarm over
the Alps to obtain summer employment.
But Swiss women , also , arc sadly aged and
stiffened and rendered prematurely ugly
by field labor. Go where you may In tbo
mountains , moat of the hard work seema to
be performed by the weaker half of crea
tion. No animal In lovely Switzerland Is
moro hardly treated , with the exception of
the dog. To be sure , a woman Is often har
nessed with a dog to a heavy cart , while
another woman pushes from behind ; but I
have never seen the woman lie down in the
dust and pant from exhaustion , with the
tongue hanging from the mouth , as I have
often scon the dog do. Manifestly , tbo dog
Is still undermost In the competition of
woman with the lower animals.
It Is a pretty sight to see maidens tossing
hay In the bright green valleys , under snow
peaks , where waterfalls stream from the
rocks and glad torrents rush over their
pebbly beds ; but the hideous fact of woman's
enslavement to labor too hard for her
strength Is blflden under the smiling tab
leau. Some who shudder at the thought of
a woman dropping a ballot into a voting
urn can look calmly on at her sad position
In the European labor market , can see
without trouble of soul , as 1 have. In pros
perous Canton Ilerne , a woman harnessed
with a cow , and dragging : a load of ma
nure. The Swiss women , judging from ap
pearances , acem to bo the supporters in
stead of the supported. They are active
and Indefatigable In labor. They even carry
bricks and mortar for the builders up nar
row planks and steep ladders. Tbo unfit-
test doubtlcm die young , which Is a happy
provision of nature ; while the intent grow
rigid and stiff , fougbencd Ilko seasoned
hickory , with bowed backs , muscles of
whipcord , and faces euch an one- sees cu
riously carved on walnuts. Tbo men are
doubtless laborious , but their labor seems
less In evidence than the labor of the women *
Nature U Inexorable in these mountains ,
but her stinging lash falls most heavily
on tha shoulders ot the wman. ,
The national costumes h < W faded out ot
tbo Kngadlno , U they ever existed there.
Tbo people at least ttut 'Protestant ' portion
tion ( moro than half tltd' * populace ) arc
a plain , sturdy , sober fol , tlrrlfty , too , In
their way , but Joyless gfnupoct. In other
parts of Switzerland , whore a few years
ago the costumes of the1 WftVrent cantons
wcro preserved by the Wotrfofi wallers al
hotels , you sec now only T > lalA black gowns
nnd white aprons. ThoroiArWprctty silver
ornaments in the shop windows , and occa
sionally on n Sunday they tappoar In the
streets on the person of 'eorAo Swiss dame.
But they are fast fading out of existence ,
nnd moro's Ihe plly , as' they are very
pretty and becoming. "
Some of the village housed bavo quaint
sun dials upon the front ! , ' and , where they
are very fine , there Is not ; "Infrequently an
Inscription telling when the 'House was built
and when restored , and , pcihnps , a pious
sentcnco In old German text , The roads
through this valley constantly excited our
admiration. They seem built for all tlmo
and are as well kept as a lady's parlor floor.
Thcso beautiful highways over the wildest
passes show how effectually a paternal power
watches over the safety and comfort of
travelers. Some of the prettiest villas upon
thcso hillsides are the summer houses of
wealthy Swiss cooks , restaurant keepers ,
confectioners nnd hotel proprietors to bo
found In nil the large towns of Europe , nnd
who return to their natlvo valleys for rest
nnd recreation. Though they may not bo
socially distinguished In the places where
they have acquired their wealth , they hive
as good n nosltlon as need bo desired In
their early homes. The castle of the old
family has often crumbled on the hill ; but
the new families In the vulley survive and
flourish hero as elsewhere.
HHII C1IAMIIKK GYMNASTICS.
A SiitlHfnctnry SiiliNtltutu for Outdoor
It Is probable that In no year since the old
Greeks trained their daughters In the gym
nasium has there been such a universal
tendency on the part of women as during
the past year to avail themselves of every
opportunity for outdoor exercise. They have
played golf , cricket and lawn tennis as never
before and certainly such an army of wheel-
women as hea scoured the country highways
and byways this summer was never before
dreamed of. The result la that Hypatla.
fresh from her books , nnd the lady of
fashion , from her golf links , has an expanded
chest girth , n normal breathing capacity
and evenly developed muscles.
To take the place of outdoor exercises dur
ing the winter months on admirable system
of Rthlctlm has been evolved for women
along the Hues In general use In fashionable
city gymnasiums and women's colleges ,
based for the most part on the Swedish
system of gymnastics and adapted In each
case by carefully prepared Instructors to In
dividual requirements.
In a recent president's report at Wcllcflley ,
where there Is a magnificently equipped gym
nasium for the girls , and the course made
obligatory , It was shown by means of sta
tistical diagrams and figures that In six
months the mean girth of cheat of members
of the crows had Increased one and one-half
Inches , while the mean lung capacity had
Increased twenty lnchw. Students who ro-
abdomlnat mu clen , tends to remove visceral
congestion and to restore the vital organs
to their natural situation In the abdominal
cavity ; And thcro Is scarcely ono man or
woman In a hundred whoso organs bavo n
normal position , thnnk to the careless
hftbltct of silting nnd stnnJIng , and a consequent
quent weakened vitality nnd protuberant
abdomen. Obesity and Imllgcstlon nr
equally Impossible after a few months ot
this and similar exercises , properly taken.
The legs are slowly raised and lowered by
means of the muscles of. the limbs and
abdomen , and without ncalstnncc from the
trunk or arms. Modifications are rotary
movements of each leg separately , and ris
ing to sitting posture , while yet the arms
remain folded above the bead , or better
WALL MOVEMENTS.
still , over the chest. Nutrition to the sys
tem at largo results as a matter of course
by the Increased flow Induced of Ihc general
circulation.
None of these exercises require gym
nasium apparatus , nnd hundreds ot others
are provided admirable In design nnd effect.
KATHURINE STALEY.
SHAAVI.S OF .SIir.TIAMS.
A IIIwli IU'Krc' of Art Kmiiloycil In
AVt-n\liiK Them.
Putting asldo other branches ot Shetland
hosiery , the Shetland shawl may be roughly
divided Into Iwo classes "shawls" and
"clouds. " It Is unnecessary to explain the
nature of the shawl , says the Pall Mall
Gazette , but there may be a few persons who
know not that a "cloud" In northern
language Is but the small , elongated form
of shawl , and Is a wrap In grcal request for
evening wear by the women of London , and
the world. Of these shawls and clouds there
are , technically speaking , three distinct
kinds :
First , the most elaborate and expensive
Is that which Is known as "crape" work , In
which the knitting Is HO delicate as to resemble
semble- appearance the most finely Inter
woven gatizo wire. Next In quality nnd value
to this Is the "laco" work , the name of
which explains Its nature. The third sort Is
that of the far coarser shawls and clouds
known ns "hap. " The last are much heavier
In weight and rougher In texture. Yet In
some cf them tbo different shades of color
FLOOR EXERCISES.
colved no training ( this Is also statistical )
enter collcgo without normal lun capacity
and actually lose an appreciable degree ot
what they have In six months.
Happily , for a moderate sum , every city
now affords facilities for private lessons and
clasd work In the most , approved sj tcmn ot
health-producing gymncntlcs. The coumo
everywhere begins without the use of ap
paratus. Breathing exercises are taught ,
flexing and stretching for the body and
limbs and all sorts of Umbering gymnastics
are used for a few weeks to get unused
muscles Into pllablo working order.
Figures 1 and 2 Illustrate dimple but scien
tific movcmcn'.n that develop muscles of
the llmta , hips and waists that are usually
so flexible from disuse that even these move
ments at fir at Induce positive pain.
In figure 2 the leg slowly rises In the
perpendicular plane of the body as far na
possible , where It la held for a few mo
mentR , and then slowly falls back by weigh
of the muscles of the leg and hip cnly , to Hi
first position. Each action of this act at
exercises may be repeated six or eight times
on each side. These two exercises Induce
extreme strength and flexibility of the
nalat and limbs , which means a rounding
out and a compactcr fibre of muscle ; hence
there Is no pcaslblllty of Increasing waist
and ankle measurements unduly.
In figure 3 the anterior portion of the
hands and arms , the chest , abdomen and
the legs nro affected. The body takes the
f HIP AND LEG EXERCISES.
position ebown for a few moments , then
straightens Itself BO that it forms a line
diagonal lo that of tbo arms. It then gently
falls back into a curved position , Tbo top
ot a bedstead or a mantel will answer per
fectly as a means for obtaining tbo position.
Flfiuro i Illustrates an extremely useful
and vluoroun movement that affuci * tlia
form a most beautiful effect.
Such Is the art employed In their weaving
that the graduations of tone merge them
selves about Imperceptibly one In the other.
And this Is moro remarkable from the
fact that the Shetlander Is not fond of
"dyes , " nnd only uses them to render salable
a piece of holsery that has , so to speak ,
gcno wrong , The colors are tbo natural
ones of the sheep the blacks , browns ,
grays and all whites of their wool. Only In
Fair Isle , midway between Shetland and
Orkney , Is this rule departed from. There ,
It is said , some vessels of the Spanish
Armada were stranded '
during the fleet's un
willing progress round the north of Scot
land , and nearly 200 men sought the hospi
tality of the islanders. A portion of these
the latter , surreptitiously cr otherwise ,
threw over the clilf. The rest they kept ,
and wcro taught by them to extract from
herbs certain dyes , such as color-loving
Southrons reveled In , and to apply them lo
their hosiery. The result la that today the
Fair Isle shawls and stockings contain
checks and lines so gaudy as positively to
sully the general sombcrncss of the great
Island industry.
SIIK IIOSSKS TUB HAXCII.
A California Woman Who Unlxon IVuI-
milM mill I.'liul iiiiii > iiH KniNH.
Mrs. Harriet W. R. Strong Is a ranch
woman of California , where the species
flourishes. She is not , however , a horny-
handed daughter of toll. On the contrary ,
she Is described as dainty , fragile , shrewd ,
daring , cordial , gentle-faced. Her step is
quick , her volco low and musical. She Is
an accomplished linguist , a musician , a
painter , the president of a fashionable- club ,
and her pampas plumes are tbo finest In tbo
country.
Nobody would think of calling Mrs. Strong
a narrow or one-sided person. Versatility
and walnuts are her strongest points. The
former has expanded without hindrance.
The walnuts haven't done qulto so well as
they might If Mrs. Strong hadn't set out
the pampas grass among the trees , but she
means to 'mako that all right very soon.
The pampas plants will have to move , but
they will bo merely transplanted. It Is a
fact , without any low attempt at punning ,
that Mrs. Strong plutnts herself on her suc
cess In this branch of her ranching.
Mrs. Strong's husband died In 1888 , and
his widow very quickly found that her agents
were Improving their exceptional opportuni
ties for running the business Inlo the
ground. This Is a very easy thing to do
with a ranch. She decided , therefore , to
run It herself , and , as Is generally the case
when a woman takes hold of a business , she
got herself well laughed at for her notions.
When she spent $700 on pampas plants tbo
men of the neighborhood wcro 50 amused that
they set in the sun for hours together nnd
had a beautiful tlmo telling each other what
a fool a woman was when It came to busi
ness.
They don't do that now. Mrs , Strong har
vests 300.000 plumes from her twenty-eight
acres and sells them for 11C to | 20 a thou
sand. This Is in addition to tbo walnuts ,
which are In the same land , but bavo been
somewhat stunted by the pampas , The
plumes are gathered In September , and Iho
work has to bo done promptly. Sixty-five
laborers harvest the twenty-eight acres
The plumes grows up In a long sheath as
an ear of corn does , and It must bo cut before -
fore tbo shcalh opens , lest the sun spoils
the fronds. The plumes are first stripped
and taken to Iho drying place. If they are
put out in the evening they are whlto and
ready to bo takea up by aiorulnu. Tbco
they gn to the curing house , where they nro
kept six weeks.
In addition to Iho pampas grass , which IR
n excellent food for cattle , Mrs , Strong
raises walnuts , oranges , olives and figs.
She Is president of the American Walnut
Grower * AsooctAlton. Bho Is Interested In
Irrigation and mining ncheturs , nnd 1ms re
cently pAtented a reservoir system for Im
pounding the debris of hydraulic mining.
She thinks It will octtlo matters Mllsfnc-
torlly both to miners And farmers. She has
patented a process for damming up And
storing walcr for Irrigation by using the
reversed arch. Furthermore , she hns a
hobby. She dreams of founding nn Institu
tion where woir.cn may loam the principles
of the science of business. She Is now Iho
president of a business league , which she
hopes to sco row unlll II fulfills her hopes ,
Altogether , Mrs. Strong appears to bo ns
marvelous . product of the Pacific slope as
It has turned out for a long tlmo.
11RAT1SD SIIOI3S KOU WIXTKlt.
A Hot AVitlcr riiiMHU'o ConecnliMl I"
tin : llool.
P.\ul Wonnebcrgcr , a resident of Dresden ,
the capital of Sarony , hn devised a beatable
shoe , which will cause his name to bo blrsscd
wherever mortals suffer from cold feet dur
ing the winter season. The apparatus con-
slstc of a tiny holler nnd furnace in the heel
and solo of the shoe , which causes n con
tinuous circulation of warm water around
the extremities. Within the heel of the
huiUablo sbcc , which Is hollowed out for the
purpose , the Inventor has placed a glowing
substance similar In Its natuto to that used
In the familiar Japanese hand warmers. The
soles of the shoes are hollowed out for the
reception of a rubber bag covered with
asbctos , and containing the water that
keeps the feet warm.
This water communicates with the recep
tacle In the heel of the shoe , nnd derives
Its heat from the heated substance located
there. When the owner of n pair of heatnblo
shoes wishes to go out Into the cold and
sloppy street ho opens the receptacle In the
heel of the shoe , lights the punk Ilko sub
stance , closes the perforated baud that holds
It In place nnd then sallies forth to bid
defiance to hla old enemy , the chills.
Walking keeps the water circulating , and
at every step the grateful warmth Is felt , the
upper ns well as the lower surface of the feet
feeling Its effects. There Is no danger of the
feet being uncomfortably wnrmi'd , for the
water cannot be heated by the tiny furnace
In the heel to n beat more than 70 degrees
Fahrenheit. The Inventor has provided
against the bursting of the little holler by
the Insertion In the soles of a small safety
valve.
The shoes are n trifle heavier than the
ordinary onfs. The sole Is but very little
thicker than that ot the wet weather shoe
sold by the Chicago dealers. The Inventor
Is at work on n new shoe that will be uo
heavier than the ordinary one.
Kan III oil No ten.
Gold-linked chains nro worn around the
waist over sable and Persian lamb jackets.
Rcppcd fabrics In both small and heavy
cords grow constantly in fashionable favor.
Iridescent mohairs of heavy weight arc
much used for traveling costumes Ibis sea
son.
Shaggy-haired vicuna cloths which resem
ble the Angora shawls of long ago arc made
up Into gowns for midwinter wear.
Molro effects In silk , wool and velvets arc
decidedly the thing for this season , nnd all
the new flowered silks have a molro ground.
Hyacinth blue and a certain palo rosy
shade of mauve Is a very fashionable French
color mixture , , and as n rule Is a becoming
one.
one.Tho now shades In gloves are pearl , cham
pagne , gray , mushroom and tan , and very
light tints of thcso colors are worn In the
evening.
The newest and most popular colors for
evening toilets nro pale and golden yellow ,
silver gray , mauve , whlto and rose In many
lovely tints.
A new invention In the way of Imitation
chinchilla 1s said to bo a great success , es
pecially In narrow bands for trimming and In
the matter of price.
Old-fashioned China ribbon In the narrow
width baa como back again nnd Is used for
embroidering sprays with gold and silver
thread arnd Roman pearls.
All sorta of collars , pelerines , and small
shoulder capes of fur are worn this season ,
and they are made of seal , mink , sable , grebe
and chinchilla , alone , or In a combination
of any two kinds.
Patterns In black , with silk underweavco
In contrasting color showing faintly between -
tween the cords , are particularly pretty-
black and cerise , black and gold , mauve ,
apple green , and like contrasts.
The fancy for fabrics with black and
colors of various klmls Interwoven has
brought out many twilled goods of different
weights. These make neat and pretty
gowrs for matronly women.
Repped fabrics In a mixture of silk and
wool are among the latest Importations of
dress goods , and a new material , called
poll do chevre , which Is very smooth and
glossy , Is being made up Into dressy gowns.
Ovcrsklrts come slowly but surely to the
fore , and the long rounded shapes are about
equally popular with the Vandyke or pointed
models. There is no particular enthusiasm ,
however , over the fashion in any of Ita
guises.
Ribbons or very narrow galleons , spangled
very slightly or merely at the edge , make
an effective Inexpensive garniture which
can bo arranged for nockbanda , belts ,
borders to simulate box-pleats , bretcllcs ,
boleros , and the like.
Many of the utility dress skirts for winter ,
when made up of single-width goods , are ot
half-clrclo shape , with the slnrle scam up
the back , while- others , of narrow width silk
and other materials , have gored breadths
and are full at the back.
An Imported collet Is made of black vel
ours do nerd bordered with elegant Van
dyke patterned jet work , and finished with
a high Vandyked collar , also Jet edged.
Three narrow bands of black Persian lamb
surround this full collar.
The loose empire coils grow In popularity
among youthful wearers and slender ma
Irons. Some 'of the more recent models have
stitched bands simulating boxplcats , and a
few have their straight fronts open over fur
vests. They have loose bishop sleeves with
fur cuffs and a very extravagant looking Mc-
dlcl collar edged with a fur band.
Fancy velvets nnd fine velveteens with
small crushed patterns are used for blouse
waists , sleeves and bodlco trimmings gen
erally , and a novelty In fancy velvet has a
chlno silk ground covered with a scant vel
vet pllo or scattered over the surface In
pretty scroll patterns , which produce a lovely
sheen and wonderful blending of colors.
Beaded and embroidered trimmings In
shades of light blue , pink , mauve , gold and
green are In greater variety than ever and
.Appear in various degrees of elegance and
extravagance in evening , afternoon and
morning gowns. Ono of the recent revivals
Is the bugle bead , which comes In every
color , 'and is a very effective element of
the now trimmings.
Among fashionable cloaklngs are silk seal
plushes In six different grades , each grade
about forty-eight Inches wide ; velours dj
nerd in five different grades , this thirty-two
Inches wldo ; plain and plaldcd beaver cloths ,
an endless variety of fancy bouclcs , richly
dyed kerseys , soft fleecy wool diagonals ,
French casslmcrcs , a tempting invoice ot
ladles' cloths , checked cheviots of English
manufacture and fancy canvas and basket
cloths in various handsome color mixtures.
Ermlno and grcbo bavo como to the fore
In the mixture of Iwo and three different
furs on ono garment , and these also com
mand a high price. Grcbo and sealskin
wraps of very elegant description are of
fered for sale at almost prohibitive prices.
A great point in the purchase of now seal
garments is Iho dcptb of color and tbo deep
velvety closeness of the fur. Although novel
wraps show sealskin combined with grebe ,
chinchilla , ermine or other costly fur , the
choicest sealskins are combined wllh no
other sort.
F in I I tic Nott'N.
Lady Colin Campbell li an enthusiast on
tbo subject ot fencing , and is very skilful
In tbo science.
Mrs. Beck Meyer , who represented Scan *
dlnavla during the International congress of
women at the World's fair. Is now lecturing
at Stanford university , California ,
Rev , Holer.'Van Anderson has become pas
tor of tbo new Church of Higher LifeIn
Boston , She was born In Iowa , Is about
35 years old , and Is fair and fashionable ,
Mlta Georgia Richards , who occupies the
position of county cleric in Arapahoq county ,
Colorado , receives n sslnry of J5.000 n
the Inrgcnt paid to nt.y woman official Iq
the west ,
Christine Nllsson , Iho Counted * do CHS *
Miranda , bought \Vnttenu' "Dlnno * U
llAln , " recently sold nt auction In Paris , to *
107,000 francs. The picture had been pro *
vlously offered to the Louvre museum toi
100.000 francs. .
The Baroness Adolph do Rothschild nt hci
Brltuny villa In ono of the walls of hel
boudoir hns a sliding p.inel ot plnteRlnsi/
through which at pleasure she can RCO Into
her cow palnct ) , where the animals feed fronj
marble mangers , and are milked Into sllvel
palls.
Mrs. Phoebe Itnnnfonl 1s An original Intcf-
prcter of scripture. The thirteenth vcrsai
of 11 Kings , xxlll , says : "And I will wlp
up Jerusalem ns a man wlpcth a dUh , wip
ing It nnd turning It upsldo down , " Mrs.
Hanaford sajs this plainly means that In
those das men wcro engaged In menial
work.
Mrs. Werner , a Now York Quaker , Is
threatened with expulsion from her church
because she has- been made receiver of the
estate of a liquor dealer. She has Intl--
mated her Intentions In the matter by say
ing that If the Friends expel her It will
be easier to find another church than an
other receivership.
Three young Indian gills bavo recently
completed the course for trained mimes
In Iho Philadelphia hospital. Miss Phocbo
Hood , ono of the young women , Is the
daughter of a Pawnee chief , Miss Kato
Greened Is of the Wynndotto tribe , and
Miss Lily Wind ot Canada belongs to the
tribe of the Ottnwas.
Mrs. Clayton W. Carson of Chicago , a
leader In her set , young , handsome , talenlcd ,
nnd fascinating , has become a new star In
the firmament ot rifle shots. Mrs. Carson
has made a great record not only In the
grounds of several gun clubs , but on the
North Dakota prairies , where she has bagged
Hying fowl with astonishing success.
At Andovcr , Me. , there lives n real daugh
ter of the revolution , Mrs. Catherine Mont
gomery Poor. She Is SO years old. Her
father , John Alexander Montgomery , was a
volunteer and afterward an olllccr under
Washington , nnd nt the close of the war
ho received a ring from Washington ns a
tokenof recognition for meritorious con
duct. At Hyde Park , Mass. , there Is an
other "real daughter , " Mrs. Adeline Gould-
Ing. Her father. General William Hlldreth ,
died at Concord In 1S13 , when she was 3
years old.
Mrs. Labouchcro some fifteen years ago
was known ns the beautiful Henrietta Hod-
son , nn actress skilled In the best traditions
of the old English stage. She \\oti her
fame chiefly nt the Royalty and nt the
' old-fashioned house In
Queen's theater , nn -
Long Acre. Miss Hudson was llttlo mora
than n child when her rendering of tha
part ot Ariel In "The Tempest" gave her a
leading postlon among the younger ac
tresses of the dny. Her great part was
that of Lady Gay Spanker In "London As
surance. "
Louise Truax Hlbbard Is n most remark
able llttlo ladof 13 years who bids fair
to rival the noted Anna Shaw as a
whistler. Her talent ) was discovered by ac-
cldcnl about three years ago , and slnco then
she hns delighted many audiences lu Chicago ,
Detroit , Washington , ( Baltimore and Phila
delphia. She has , naturally , been much In
demand for social gatherings , and In this
work has won golden opinions , not only by
her blrdllko notes , but by her modcsl and
unaffected manner. The lttlo | womnn be
longs to ono of the oldest families In De
troit , but has recently gone to New York
with her mother In search of fresh laurels ,
Mrs. Inez Sprague , the second wlfo of Gov
ernor Sprague of Rhode Island , Is achieving :
such success with her vocal music that she
will , no doubt , become moro famous thnn her
predecessor , Kate Chase. The present Mrs.
Sprague Is a very beautiful Virginian , be
longing to ono of the F. F. V.'B. As
a young girl she was qulto accomplished ,
singing well to her own accompaniment.
Some two years ago she had her volco tried ,
and , by the advice of a master , went to >
Purls to have her voice cultivated. She ap
plied herself assiduously with the best of re
sults. Her volco has a marvelously long ;
range , with u full middle register , and great
dramatic power.
Mrs. A. L. Hnskcll , mayor of the town
of Gaylord , Kan. , the only town on' earth
ruled by women , has so well managed Iho
place that she and her assistant officers
govern' that It is out ot debt which Is
moro than can bo said of many places
ruled by men. At the last election Mrs.
llaskcll received two votes for every ono
that was cast for the main opponent who
ran against her. Her husband Is a banker
and stockowner , and she has the most
freedom a woman could ask , Sbo Is a
democrat and make ? her talks very prac
tical and to the point. She Is the embodi
ment ot good health and Is a very attrac
tive woman. She dresses well and knows
the advantage of a' good gown to catch
the people.
Hair Medicine
When the hair begins to fall out and lose lit
lustre and beauty by turning gray or faded , what
more evidence Is needed to prove that Us hcallli
li affected ? am ! that it needs medicine ? Na
more , I assure you , for there Is a cause for every
symptom thattlte hair gives of turning gray or
losing Its beauty In any form. I'or as the Imlr la
a part of the human body , it Is subject to ailment
ns well ns any other part , and therefore bhouUI
be treated intelligently. Hut contrary to thU
commou'bcnsc logic , no greater insult or worsd
abuse could lie heaped ii | > ou this defenseless
member of our person than the use of hair dye.
To color the poor Kick hair with hair dye , anil
thereby drown Its feeble cry for nourishment , is
In Itself a blnand a crime against nature. Shaina
on Ignorant humanity that will not yield to tha
laws of nature and study the needs of their own
body.
body.Mme. . M. Yale's
, Hair Tonic
Is a medicine for curing sick hair. It la the only
remedy on record known to restore the natural
color to grey hair. It nourialic * the roots anil
gives circulation to the oil ducts , permeating It
with nature's own coloring matter that ( Iowa
through the channels of the hair wheu It Is lu an
healthful state as faithfully as the warm blood
does through our veins.
Mine , Yale's Hair Tonic Is the result of a care
ful analysis of the human hair by Mine. Yalr ,
that wonderful uoman chemist and scientist ,
who guarantee * Yale's HalrToulc tocontain pre
cisely the natural constituents of the hair's own
matter prepared in a chemical form. It stops
the hair falling In from twenty-four hour * to one
week. Cures Dandruff ; Rodem dry , harsh hair :
makes the hair soft , glossy and Huffy ; keeps it
In curl , and cures all manner of scalp diseases
ni.d hair ailments , producing a growth of luxurf-
nnt hair of Its own rich , natural color , no matter
what that may be black , bloude or brown.
I'or children and adults mules or females.
f i.oo per bottle ; six for fj.oo ,
mii.M.YAU : < , Ifeitut/and Compl.ilon
Tumplu of Utuutr , 119 oUt * Btr c
OCMJCM
SELL If
