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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 29, 1912)
.17 Omma.S TODAY Bee Magazine Page t - K 11 ii to li J Copyright, 1912, by the Star Company. Great Britain, Rights Reserved. ,' ! I f jt it . mm i i -mse- t 4 -w w m w b a hl ,n a, aa . r ' The Evening Gown a Cat Lover Might Wear The "Cabbage Rose" Evening Gown The "Japanese Screen" Muff and Gown The Baronial Wallpaper Costume- The Davenport Robe The Conventionalized Grape Costume. How Wallpapers, Furniture Coverings, and Even Per " sian Rugs, Are Inspir iflf Paris Modistes v: '-Wti t 1 If $k1 ..... -. w .7 1 -i ; h 1... t' A f f 1 .1 fj ."I i V , ivy i x ADY DUfF-GORDON, the famous "Lucile" of London, and foremost creator of fashions in the world, writes each week the fashion article for this newspaper,' presenting all that is newest and best in styles for well-dressed women. Lady Duff-Gordon's new Paris establishment brings her into close touch with that, centre of fashion. Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is at Nos. 37 and 39 West Fifty-seventh street. New York City. . By Lady Duff-Gordon ("Lucile") , , D' My "Wall Paper" Evening Gow of Purple Chiffons.' . The TigHing Birds Are Very nearly Lueoize. . ECORATION rampant Is the fad of the moment in Paris. With one bound the mon- daises have leaped from the plain one-color fabrics to this startling ,' decoration craze. I can call it noth lng less than a craze, a kind of Au tumn madness We began it early in Spring with the charming coatees of cretonnes that speedily caught the fancy of the ultra chic Parisians, and we are in a perfect maze of fur-' nlture covering gowns, . wall paper gowns, Persian rug gowns !, The general effect la bewildering. -I am reminded of Joseph's coat of many colors when I see costumes that I have designed recently, downs, hats, wraps and, yes, even slippers are made of fabrics that suggest the furniture shop rather than the modiste. No matter how slim a woman may be, she will sure ly be "well upholeterevV wten wear ing the new gowns! Gone are the plain supple velvets.: Here are plushes, heavy, lustrous, sumptuous. ' Plushes brocaded , in the most fantastic designs, as or-, nate as the furniture sold in the Bon Marche, the Paris shop that is nearer to New York department stores than any other in Europe. Just such brocade as will be found . to-day covering the library and drawing room furniture in many middle clasB French, American and English homes. .The fabrio is familiar to all of us. . We are using very novel designs,' however, and very many different designs. Cabbage roses, gigantic lilies, birds, beasts of the field, fowls of the air, are portrayed on these plushes, chiffons, satins. Even the furs have not escaped this decorative craze. I have re cently ."composed," as one of my . cleverest designers would say, a wrap and muff of moleskin that are brocaded in a conventionalized lily , design. , , I am showing you this week a most fascinating evening costume ' of brocaded chiffons, a wall paper gown. The fowls of the air deco rate it. , The foundation of this cos tume is a rich orchid purple satin. The chiffons are in two shades of purple, verging to lavender. The birds are oyster white. Bizarre? Indeed, yes. But very chic There are birds inmany poses flying, nesting, even fighting. So bold a design as this is only possi ble for chiffons; oa plush it 'would . be top-heavy, grotesque. I have just finished an evening costume of silver and rose brocade that is the last word in sumptuous ' beauty. I can not send a photo graph of this, for, alas, it would not ' catch the steamer which carries this letter. I will make a word picture of it for you. . As I developed' it, my thoughts went back to Marie Antoinette and her superb apartments at Versailles, For the original of this wonderful fabrio was used for her boudoir fur niture and hangings in that palace. It is, of ceiirse, a rose design, each flower perfect, the background of shimmering, gleaming silver. Fabulously expensive? Yes. Fifty dollars a yard, even in Paris. Inci dentally, this decorative craze is an expensive one. It always costB many dollars less to dress in one color. The cretonne coats and hats of the Summer were not expensive. French cretonne, used for hangings and furniture coverings, can be bought for less than a dollar a yard. But this Autumnal and Winter craze is very different. In the Summer it was the chic thing for milady tp have her coats and hats made of the very fabrics that were used in her boudoir roses of all colors, tulips, violets, lilies, on cretonne, in any color! , But now milady dresses to match her stately salon, her big, comfort able library! Of a necessity, the ' ; models have to be plain, severe, scant in skirt and coat, for elabo rately , ornate fabrics do not lend themselves to pleats and gathers. On wraps of wall paper or furni- ture covering design, fur is the only trimming permissible. In the wrap shown here you will notice how ef fective this Is. , , The large flat muffs must match in decoration the scheme worked out in the costume. In one of the sketches above you will see how skillfully this can be done. The hat with the large tropical bird is the , keynote. The costume and the muff reproduce it most faithfully. . ; There are wonderful possibilities in the fad. The Persian rug even- lng wraps are superb. Imagine a ! lustrous rose plush, reproducing i faithfully the wonderful Saraband design, swathing a tall, sinuous fig. ure! One might well imagine that ii the rug from my lady's boudoir h.H S come -o life! ' ' w A " ilk-tZi&iwM-: ; 'rMwk si! V ; Wmmvvmm, ' Jm " '' ' ' ' iBEADTraNTS Superfluous Hajr Will m tall n if thcra li an KM to P"' munoatly denror di8ariin irowtfc ot liuou hiir n my (o and anuaf I u yttn old and to growth ii r hi T dtuthtrr, wh, it 22. to iimlrljr troHd. 1 been told UuiC delipriei ire worttiloi ind that Bothm is tBecun opl lh tlne Boadl wblch I IwiJli to try, i I m told, it it piinfal. I botUd b gUd if yov would g" ua tout tdiici. , Tea ir wiM to ivoid Um ictric nnslii. It li ft dugcroai oparuioa, ind. bnidot bring ptinful, otixa Imrai iftr Kin. I tutt In uatly sUted in thfti oaiatsust that it it lictixr to andtir tlx taitoyiotw tbn to tufftf tb iin of tho clwirie txfdle. 1 hn i wanted mquireii tgainat depilatoriei. 4kh an won tbaa awlwa bcauM tbey cauat tbt hair to grow out tliK'ktr than befare. Beratitlr, Humrn, 1 b' recehad ton en that.tntie and reUabla reporu about a mctbod (urigiciUng in Jt(wa) nhuA hat bean morfuliy uMd is tto oouotry. I do sot know it name, but friend of mine. bo re reied a ouewieta ture by itt use. told nit thai ahe nan Id gladly rurolMi imi pruin, wiw vat thaw, to awooo bo would writ be. If yon via write to Mrv Olood. (tiling wbetier Mr or Hit. Apartment MSB.. 118 Eaat 2Mb fc.. ev York City. S. t.. enckming a two-sent tUmi for reply and atenUooing my ; advice, abs will end you, i'ie tret ot ail coei, rori'eU fnntrorUoos which will vmAmMtdlt mMo rou to bt permaneBtly rid of aJ! trace New "Furniture Covering" Wrap of Brocaded Plush and Fox Fur Collar and Cuffs "MY SECRETS No. 194-Have You a OF BEAUTY" By Fallen Face ? By Mme. LINA CAVALIERI HAS your face fallen! Or is it fall ' ing? ' . No, this is no joke. There is no attempt to be funny in what I have writ ten. The ageing of the face, or any other part of the body, is no cause for levity. Study the faces about you and you will see that some of them art) firm muscled, full and even contour.. In others you see that the muscles are sagging, slipping from place. The face Is growing heavier about the chin and there is a drawn, strained look of the muscles about the eyes and temples. These are the fallen faces. " If you see that the muscles of your face ; : are beginning to slip downward lose no time in countenancing this tendencyto make the visage look older and heavier. Had I my choice between wrinkles and the regret table fallen face I should choose the wrin kles as less ageing In appearance and more ' n likely to be remediedT First, reform your habits of sleeping. The posture in which we sleep determines into what lines the face and body fail for eight or nine hour, of each twenty-four a third or more of our time. If correct hab its are formed for that time there is an ad mirable start on the road to better looks. . Notice how your head rests as you fall, asleep. Perhaps it is bent far forward. In that case the facial muscles are relaxed and their tendency is to slip downward reiax wnne we are asleep. That is the rea- on wny, on rising in the morning, the face looks heavy and "pudgy." The mus cles do not recover their tone until the ; habits of the day reassert themselves. . ? With this knowledge you should be will- ; ing to make special effort and endure some Inconvenience to prevent this slipping of the facial muscles at night Toss away your pillow, or, If you are exceedingly un comfortable without one, if the blood rush es to the head and causes you to be sleep less, use a small, flat pillow, or better still, slip auch apillow beneath the head of the mattress so that your body will rest at a slight Incline, and the hair and scalp will be spared the heating of the pillow. Lie upon your back. . In this posture your chin will be thrust upward and the muscles will be at tension. If you sleep thus the facial me. Una Cavalieri, tuoaing their weight, especially that of the' ; - muscles , will not sag during the , night large chin and cheek muscles, drawing them v, hours, .. ;, . , , dovn throughout the night All muscles Study your habits during the day and correct such habits as cause a falling of the facial muscles. Perhaps you bend your head unnecesarily low over your work. If so avoid this. At any rate, give the chin muscles the opposite exercise by bending the head backward upon, the shoulders many times a day.' ' ' j : Perhaps you have formed the habit pic turesquely described as "walking into your chest." This is an unbecoming manner ism of many women. v Shyness or self consciousness or listlessness may be the . cause in some Instances. In others it is sheer bodily laziness. Don't let your chin , sink upon your chest when you talk, nor at any other time, tt makes a very unpleas ant impression upon the hearer. It gives - him the Idea that you are secretive or de- ceitful. : Lift your head when you talk, and look Into the face of the person, you are addressing. He or she will ad mire you more. Besides It Is 'another - means of preventing the slipping of the The Most Famous Living Beauty facial muscles, of keeping your face from falling. , . y , We go back to nature for inspiration for beauty. Some of the most graceful of the modern dancers are sel-taught and nature taught, taking for models of grace the swaying of the tree boughs and the lilt of flowers in a wind. So we can go back to nature for models in the poise of the head. Take for an example, not some tired dray horse who lets his discouraged muscles sink beneath his forelegs, but the inquisi tive bird, with head uplifted and upturned eyes seeking to solve the mystery ot the trees. Coax the muscles of the chin and neck into obedience. Begining at he point where the muscles of the neck meet those of the shoulders, press firmly with the fin gers of both hands, moving the hands up ward to the muscles of the !ower Jaw anf -continuing the pressure on the muscles be hind the ears. i V aV 'asm 6 n- i