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Omma.S
TODAY
Bee Magazine Page
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11 ii to li J
Copyright, 1912, by the Star Company. Great Britain, Rights Reserved.
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The Evening Gown a Cat Lover Might Wear The "Cabbage Rose" Evening Gown The "Japanese Screen" Muff and Gown The Baronial Wallpaper Costume- The Davenport Robe The Conventionalized Grape Costume.
How Wallpapers, Furniture
Coverings, and Even Per
" sian Rugs, Are Inspir
iflf Paris Modistes
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ADY DUfF-GORDON, the famous "Lucile" of London, and
foremost creator of fashions in the world, writes each week the
fashion article for this newspaper,' presenting all that is newest
and best in styles for well-dressed women.
Lady Duff-Gordon's new Paris establishment brings her into close
touch with that, centre of fashion.
Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is at Nos. 37 and
39 West Fifty-seventh street. New York City.
. By Lady Duff-Gordon ("Lucile") , ,
D'
My "Wall Paper" Evening Gow of Purple Chiffons.' . The TigHing Birds Are
Very nearly Lueoize.
. ECORATION rampant Is the
fad of the moment in Paris.
With one bound the mon-
daises have leaped from the plain
one-color fabrics to this startling ,'
decoration craze. I can call it noth
lng less than a craze, a kind of Au
tumn madness We began it early
in Spring with the charming coatees
of cretonnes that speedily caught
the fancy of the ultra chic Parisians,
and we are in a perfect maze of fur-'
nlture covering gowns, . wall paper
gowns, Persian rug gowns !,
The general effect la bewildering.
-I am reminded of Joseph's coat of
many colors when I see costumes
that I have designed recently,
downs, hats, wraps and, yes, even
slippers are made of fabrics that
suggest the furniture shop rather
than the modiste. No matter how
slim a woman may be, she will sure
ly be "well upholeterevV wten wear
ing the new gowns!
Gone are the plain supple velvets.:
Here are plushes, heavy, lustrous,
sumptuous. ' Plushes brocaded , in
the most fantastic designs, as or-,
nate as the furniture sold in the
Bon Marche, the Paris shop that is
nearer to New York department
stores than any other in Europe.
Just such brocade as will be found
. to-day covering the library and
drawing room furniture in many
middle clasB French, American and
English homes.
.The fabrio is familiar to all of us.
. We are using very novel designs,'
however, and very many different
designs. Cabbage roses, gigantic
lilies, birds, beasts of the field,
fowls of the air, are portrayed on
these plushes, chiffons, satins.
Even the furs have not escaped
this decorative craze. I have re
cently ."composed," as one of my
. cleverest designers would say, a
wrap and muff of moleskin that are
brocaded in a conventionalized lily
, design. , ,
I am showing you this week a
most fascinating evening costume
' of brocaded chiffons, a wall paper
gown. The fowls of the air deco
rate it. , The foundation of this cos
tume is a rich orchid purple satin.
The chiffons are in two shades of
purple, verging to lavender. The
birds are oyster white. Bizarre?
Indeed, yes. But very chic
There are birds inmany poses
flying, nesting, even fighting. So
bold a design as this is only possi
ble for chiffons; oa plush it 'would .
be top-heavy, grotesque.
I have just finished an evening
costume of silver and rose brocade
that is the last word in sumptuous '
beauty. I can not send a photo
graph of this, for, alas, it would not '
catch the steamer which carries this
letter. I will make a word picture
of it for you. .
As I developed' it, my thoughts
went back to Marie Antoinette and
her superb apartments at Versailles,
For the original of this wonderful
fabrio was used for her boudoir fur
niture and hangings in that palace.
It is, of ceiirse, a rose design, each
flower perfect, the background of
shimmering, gleaming silver.
Fabulously expensive? Yes. Fifty
dollars a yard, even in Paris. Inci
dentally, this decorative craze is an
expensive one. It always costB
many dollars less to dress in one
color. The cretonne coats and hats
of the Summer were not expensive.
French cretonne, used for hangings
and furniture coverings, can be
bought for less than a dollar a yard.
But this Autumnal and Winter craze
is very different.
In the Summer it was the chic
thing for milady tp have her coats
and hats made of the very fabrics
that were used in her boudoir roses
of all colors, tulips, violets, lilies, on
cretonne, in any color!
, But now milady dresses to match
her stately salon, her big, comfort
able library! Of a necessity, the '
; models have to be plain, severe,
scant in skirt and coat, for elabo
rately , ornate fabrics do not lend
themselves to pleats and gathers.
On wraps of wall paper or furni-
ture covering design, fur is the only
trimming permissible. In the wrap
shown here you will notice how ef
fective this Is. , ,
The large flat muffs must match
in decoration the scheme worked
out in the costume. In one of the
sketches above you will see how
skillfully this can be done. The
hat with the large tropical bird is
the , keynote. The costume and the
muff reproduce it most faithfully. . ;
There are wonderful possibilities
in the fad. The Persian rug even-
lng wraps are superb. Imagine a !
lustrous rose plush, reproducing i
faithfully the wonderful Saraband
design, swathing a tall, sinuous fig.
ure! One might well imagine that ii
the rug from my lady's boudoir h.H S
come -o life! '
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iBEADTraNTS
Superfluous Hajr
Will m tall n if thcra li an KM to P"'
munoatly denror di8ariin irowtfc ot
liuou hiir n my (o and anuaf I u
yttn old and to growth ii r hi T
dtuthtrr, wh, it 22. to iimlrljr troHd. 1
been told UuiC delipriei ire worttiloi
ind that Bothm is tBecun opl lh tlne
Boadl wblch I IwiJli to try, i I m told, it
it piinfal. I botUd b gUd if yov would g"
ua tout tdiici. ,
Tea ir wiM to ivoid Um ictric nnslii. It
li ft dugcroai oparuioa, ind. bnidot bring
ptinful, otixa Imrai iftr Kin. I tutt In
uatly sUted in thfti oaiatsust that it it
lictixr to andtir tlx taitoyiotw tbn to tufftf
tb iin of tho clwirie txfdle. 1 hn i
wanted mquireii tgainat depilatoriei. 4kh an
won tbaa awlwa bcauM tbey cauat tbt hair
to grow out tliK'ktr than befare.
Beratitlr, Humrn, 1 b' recehad ton en
that.tntie and reUabla reporu about a
mctbod (urigiciUng in Jt(wa) nhuA hat bean
morfuliy uMd is tto oouotry. I do sot
know it name, but friend of mine. bo re
reied a ouewieta ture by itt use. told nit thai
ahe nan Id gladly rurolMi imi pruin, wiw
vat thaw, to awooo bo would writ be.
If yon via write to Mrv Olood. (tiling
wbetier Mr or Hit. Apartment MSB.. 118
Eaat 2Mb fc.. ev York City. S. t.. enckming
a two-sent tUmi for reply and atenUooing my
; advice, abs will end you, i'ie tret ot ail coei,
rori'eU fnntrorUoos which will vmAmMtdlt
mMo rou to bt permaneBtly rid of aJ! trace
New "Furniture Covering" Wrap of Brocaded Plush and Fox Fur Collar and Cuffs
"MY SECRETS
No. 194-Have You a
OF BEAUTY" By
Fallen Face ?
By Mme. LINA CAVALIERI
HAS your face fallen! Or is it fall
' ing? '
. No, this is no joke. There is no
attempt to be funny in what I have writ
ten. The ageing of the face, or any other
part of the body, is no cause for levity.
Study the faces about you and you will
see that some of them art) firm muscled,
full and even contour.. In others you see
that the muscles are sagging, slipping from
place. The face Is growing heavier about
the chin and there is a drawn, strained
look of the muscles about the eyes and
temples. These are the fallen faces. "
If you see that the muscles of your face ;
: are beginning to slip downward lose no time
in countenancing this tendencyto make the
visage look older and heavier. Had I my
choice between wrinkles and the regret
table fallen face I should choose the wrin
kles as less ageing In appearance and more '
n likely to be remediedT
First, reform your habits of sleeping.
The posture in which we sleep determines
into what lines the face and body fail for
eight or nine hour, of each twenty-four a
third or more of our time. If correct hab
its are formed for that time there is an ad
mirable start on the road to better looks. .
Notice how your head rests as you fall,
asleep. Perhaps it is bent far forward. In
that case the facial muscles are relaxed
and their tendency is to slip downward
reiax wnne we are asleep. That is the rea-
on wny, on rising in the morning, the
face looks heavy and "pudgy." The mus
cles do not recover their tone until the
; habits of the day reassert themselves. .
? With this knowledge you should be will-
; ing to make special effort and endure some
Inconvenience to prevent this slipping of
the facial muscles at night Toss away
your pillow, or, If you are exceedingly un
comfortable without one, if the blood rush
es to the head and causes you to be sleep
less, use a small, flat pillow, or better still,
slip auch apillow beneath the head of the
mattress so that your body will rest at a
slight Incline, and the hair and scalp will
be spared the heating of the pillow. Lie
upon your back. . In this posture your chin
will be thrust upward and the muscles will
be at tension. If you sleep thus the facial
me. Una Cavalieri,
tuoaing their weight, especially that of the' ; - muscles , will not sag during the , night
large chin and cheek muscles, drawing them v, hours, .. ;, . , ,
dovn throughout the night All muscles Study your habits during the day and
correct such habits as cause a falling of
the facial muscles. Perhaps you bend your
head unnecesarily low over your work. If
so avoid this. At any rate, give the chin
muscles the opposite exercise by bending
the head backward upon, the shoulders
many times a day.' ' ' j
: Perhaps you have formed the habit pic
turesquely described as "walking into your
chest." This is an unbecoming manner
ism of many women. v Shyness or self
consciousness or listlessness may be the
. cause in some Instances. In others it is
sheer bodily laziness. Don't let your chin
, sink upon your chest when you talk, nor at
any other time, tt makes a very unpleas
ant impression upon the hearer. It gives
- him the Idea that you are secretive or de-
ceitful. : Lift your head when you
talk, and look Into the face of the person,
you are addressing. He or she will ad
mire you more. Besides It Is 'another
- means of preventing the slipping of the
The Most Famous
Living Beauty
facial muscles, of keeping your face from
falling. , . y ,
We go back to nature for inspiration for
beauty. Some of the most graceful of the
modern dancers are sel-taught and nature
taught, taking for models of grace the
swaying of the tree boughs and the lilt of
flowers in a wind. So we can go back to
nature for models in the poise of the head.
Take for an example, not some tired dray
horse who lets his discouraged muscles
sink beneath his forelegs, but the inquisi
tive bird, with head uplifted and upturned
eyes seeking to solve the mystery ot the
trees.
Coax the muscles of the chin and neck
into obedience. Begining at he point
where the muscles of the neck meet those
of the shoulders, press firmly with the fin
gers of both hands, moving the hands up
ward to the muscles of the !ower Jaw anf -continuing
the pressure on the muscles be
hind the ears.
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