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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (May 21, 1911)
AJIIS. SpeolaJ Corrwapondanc. If on wants to ba thoroughly amart and noted for a particular and xclualva method of drasa one tnuat adopt an indlrtdual color and keep to .that for every coetume. nether It be one'e tailored aults or ball drease. This 1 the lateat edict that the fashionable couterlers have issued, and It is one that seems likely to find much favor among; women who make the art of clothea a really fine art. They have taken up thla color Idea just as In times past they took up the wearln" of soma certain flower, the uslnff of some particular perfume and keeping- Its name a profound and hidden secret, or lue adopting of ome eocentrlo style of veil. . Compared with the color sohemea these other fads were but child's play, for it Is one thin to say, " This la a pretty flower and I will wear It," or "This perfume la delicious and I will use It." to carrying out in detail an entire outfit gown, wrap, hat, shoes, stockings, and whatever of lingerie may be worn. This la what this new system means, for unless the details are all prop erly attended to the effect of the whole Is spoilt V There is, however, a little latitude allowed one; al though one color only muat be employed, there may be half a doaen different ahadee or even grades of shades permitted In the one costume. This simplifies the mat ter somewhat, especially this season, when there Is sucb. great variety of colors and an Infinite number of hades. Of course all the well known colors mauve, gray, rroent shades of red, which alao Include pink, and the vast array of blues are all more or less easy; but for these crude colors the ohio woman has no manner of use. Instead aha searches for Impossible tints, for colors that are nameless, or for something that shall be a perfect background for her oemplexlon. hair, ana eyes. Some even try foa, startling effects, or they use colors that are in themselves startling, but when com bined by an artist tbis la lost sight of in the pictur esque whole. On charming and popular actress haa taken to the wearing of yellow, a seemingly impossible color for everydajr use, but when one takes in all the wonderful shades, from the deep and serviceable khaki through ttia tones of sulphur, muvtard, tarnished gold, butter . color, primrose, and numberless others, it la not difficult to se the results that may be obtained. Besides the wearing of odd and out of the way tints it Is ths correct thing to give to these queer and un usual names. Thus one woman who has decided upon green as her especial ahade la wearing nothing but car nation stalk," a name which really could fit several hades and n one be the wleer. Hortenala is a blue, which may be that color or may be a mauve lust as on fancies, and aero la another ahade that haa been ' pounced upon by eoores of womea. principally became no one Quite knows under what color to put it, whether gray, tauv. or dull Indefinite blua mm The dressmakers uive been most active In routing out new names for old oolors or hi finding new tint that, may be made from a eomblnattoa of several that are pass; and seme. Ilk Polret and Brandt, both of Pi THE cJn ll l& we whom dress many of the stage production, let it be known that they will have anything tinted that a ous- ' tomer can describe even In the vaguest term. Thus it may be seen that w are possibly in for a new era in th matter of color and that any on with a vivid Imag ination may allow it a free hand in choosing her color and its accompanying name. For th everyday folk who Hke conventional clothe It may be stated that stripes and checks both promts to have an enormous success during all the coming sea son. Btrlpes are to be seen in every grade of material and I have lately Been some ready to wear tailored cos tumes that were quite beyond what on would expect to find. They were made of different sired stripes, all, however, being In black and whit, and th goods were either Cheviot or cashmere delaine. Both these mate rials are popular tills spring for light weight suit. In all th modal seen the skirts are th regulation narrow edge and most of them are untrimmed. On model, however, was slightly different, showing a email panel shaped piece at either aide, five or elx inch wide at the bottom and tapering off to nothing as It ap proached th kneea These inaerted pieces were of whit Cloth, ratine, or corduroy, and th skirt showed a line of small button on either side, these being of steel 01 gilt. Th ooat that wi nt with this skirt had a collar, small but sharply poluted revere, and ouffs of white, and thla also had a trimming of buttons to match. The striped goods was cashmere, th stripe being half an Inch wlda, and th suit was as smart as It could ba Th prlo need not be mentioned, but It was so small that almost any one could have afforded it A ohevlot model was of narrow stripes, th skirt show ing a piping of bright blue on its seama The coat of thla had a great deal of style, being made like a double garment one being a half fitting coat that lust covered th hips, while th other resembled a bolero without sleeves. This form of making It allowed of much of ttie blue piping being used, and this, with the addition of flat steel buttons, mad It an extremely dressy little costume Uke Its fellow, this was Inexpensive, and like it also. It was In exceedingly good tasta While stripes are being so much used for suits, checks seem to be more popular for entire gowns which are made up tailored In out and finish. These little frocks have never been so much worn as they are this spring and they promise to hold their own for street use until well Into the summer. v Of blouses it may be well to say that it la a positive OMAHA1 SUNDAY BEE: 'MAY DRESSED f OMf MM . L3 necessity Uiat thess match the suit In color, whatever that may be, end that th light weight fabrics, such as marquisette, chiffon, cotton voile, and cotton crepe, are all preferred to anything in silks, crepe de chines, and the Ilka All of these materials are transparent so that the lining may be. if one wishes It of a different color and one that la decidedly contrasting. These lining, (oo. must be thin, but not necessarily transparent 'I ; - , w;t t - . . :.. i . ; v ; . . n - A 1 w - , -it . : : '. '.I A ; :- - t ' ' 21. 1911V ii. As dark blu, gray, taupe, and black are th usual colors seen for tailored costumes, soma charming blouses are made of these same colorings, veiling such tints as oorlse, mandarlno, apple green, or any other hade that one likes, the bright ones, however, being the prettiest There Is usually a touch of embroidery on th outside material, but only Just enough to give character, and this Is generally self-toned, picked out with black, white, or threads of gold. With the present fashionable black and white striped costume th problem of th blous Is rather complicat ed, for It requires a good deal of skill to combine other black and white materials with any so striking as a tripe. Borne women adhere rigidly to the lingerie blouse, but thess generally use It only as a back ground for jabots and cravats and never under any clroumstsnoes remove their ooat. Others go In for blouses also made of striped goods but of something thin, but somehow these do not give th ldss of smart ness no matter bow perfectly they match nor how well they are worn, The best that have so far been seen are those In which th two oolors sre combined, tout in a totally different manner. On good model seen recently was of whit liberty satin, mads with th usual khnono sleeve and rather baggy bodice part There was a short yoks and a rather high collar of Irish lao. th former extending over th shoulder and off onto th top of th sleave. Directly down the oerrter of the front and back as well, wa a six inch band of black satin finished on nhr side with a row of tiny black satin buttona These band ended an loch or two below the line of the bust, where they -were met by a wider band which extended around th blouse, this also being of black satin. When on this rave th affeot of a high belt and was pretty and becoming to the figure. Another model, whloh was intended to be worn with a striped costume, had for its foundation a brilll nt shade of green chiffon. Th upper part of thla MntAg and the upper part of the sleeves were veiled In whin marquisette, while the lower half of both bodlo and sleeve were made of black saarquleetta both colors showing well over th green lining. Where th two material were joined there was some em broidery, but not of the regulation sort Thl in stead wa a sort of Irregular work don tn black and white silks, which had a shaded appearance and con veyed no Idea of a pattern or design, but It was wide and gave just the right connecting link between th blaok and white stuffs. A similar touch of embroidery finished th round neck and the edge of the sleeve. This fashion, by the way of a bright lining with black and white blouses Is chl4 and when they are worn the hat is supposed to match the lining. This is easily accomplished, either by th trimming or by th straw or material of which it may be mada For wearing with colored tailored aults or with those of silk serge wool crepe blouses are fashionable, or those made of brocaded crepe de chine. In th former one attractive model wa mad In a soft taupe shad tint. Just a shad lighter than the costume for whloh It was Intended. The front and back were covered from the throat nearly to th bust with light embroidery done In black, mandarin, and white, this last color being entirely of much raised French dots. Th neck of the little garment was round and In plac of open ing down either back or front the shoulders and upper part of the sleeves were left open and th fastening was made by Irish crochet buttons and small loops. It gave the blouss an elaborate appearance juid In real ity it was quit simple. A crfp de chine model shown at ons of ths best places vii stunning, although this was UtU trimmed and at first glance presented no unusual features. It was of a deep mustard color and th pattern of the bro cade was largs and striking. About ths neck, which was round, were rows of bead trimming, one white, on black, and each half an inch wlda On th front of th blouss were two goodslzed plaoques, on oblong, th lower on square, and these were made of black and whit beads, the black predominating. From the lower motlv hung a abort bead fringe, and fringe also fin ished the sleeves, which were well below th elbow. The gown for which this blouse was Intended wa of mustard colored silk serge,, with collar, cuffs, and facings of black satin. Many of the brocaded crp de ohlne blouse show th pattern picked out In dull silver thread or In fin black silk, and a portion of them are embroidered, sometimes atartllngly bright shade being used. On seen recently was of nattier blue, tarnished silver thread being uaed on this. This outlined every bit of th pattern, which was rather a spreading one and not too fin. In addition th pattern was of embroidery in wool In soft, dull shades of greens, rose, and yellows, this embroidery going in a band about the center and on th upper part of the sleevea It was made over a gutmp and chemisette of sliver lao and had under sleeves of the sameand was altogether chsrmlng. Printed and atanipsd chiffon, voiles, and crepes are having a tremendous vogue for Inexpensive blouses. They are to be found in every known color and In such a variety of patterns that one la fairly bewildered. Th best show oriental designs, soma In strong tints, othsrs la faded effects, many of these really resembling old materials. Egyptian deslgna Moorish and Turkish pst terna, copies of old altar oloths, or bits of floral tapes trie are all considered good and one cannot go amis In selecting one of these for ordinary usa They ar all mad la th sam way, and if on wishes to buy the squares the making of them Is arfeany mat ter. Most hav small gulmpss end oollars of thin tull and a band of om deep colored ahiffon to finish th lower part of th sleeves. They ar un lined, but most of them should be worn over a llk foundation, boned and fitted, or mad Ilk an ordinary ooreet cover, as aa preser.