AJIIS. SpeolaJ Corrwapondanc. If on
wants to ba thoroughly amart and noted
for a particular and xclualva method of
drasa one tnuat adopt an indlrtdual color
and keep to .that for every coetume.
nether It be one'e tailored aults or ball
drease. This 1 the lateat edict that the
fashionable couterlers have issued, and It
is one that seems likely to find much favor among;
women who make the art of clothea a really fine art.
They have taken up thla color Idea just as In times
past they took up the wearln" of soma certain flower,
the uslnff of some particular perfume and keeping- Its
name a profound and hidden secret, or lue adopting of
ome eocentrlo style of veil. .
Compared with the color sohemea these other fads
were but child's play, for it Is one thin to say, " This la
a pretty flower and I will wear It," or "This perfume la
delicious and I will use It." to carrying out in detail
an entire outfit gown, wrap, hat, shoes, stockings, and
whatever of lingerie may be worn. This la what this
new system means, for unless the details are all prop
erly attended to the effect of the whole Is spoilt V
There is, however, a little latitude allowed one; al
though one color only muat be employed, there may be
half a doaen different ahadee or even grades of shades
permitted In the one costume. This simplifies the mat
ter somewhat, especially this season, when there Is sucb.
great variety of colors and an Infinite number of
hades.
Of course all the well known colors mauve, gray,
rroent shades of red, which alao Include pink, and the
vast array of blues are all more or less easy; but for
these crude colors the ohio woman has no manner of
use. Instead aha searches for Impossible tints, for
colors that are nameless, or for something that shall be
a perfect background for her oemplexlon. hair, ana
eyes. Some even try foa, startling effects, or they use
colors that are in themselves startling, but when com
bined by an artist tbis la lost sight of in the pictur
esque whole.
On charming and popular actress haa taken to the
wearing of yellow, a seemingly impossible color for
everydajr use, but when one takes in all the wonderful
shades, from the deep and serviceable khaki through
ttia tones of sulphur, muvtard, tarnished gold, butter
. color, primrose, and numberless others, it la not difficult
to se the results that may be obtained.
Besides the wearing of odd and out of the way tints
it Is ths correct thing to give to these queer and un
usual names. Thus one woman who has decided upon
green as her especial ahade la wearing nothing but car
nation stalk," a name which really could fit several
hades and n one be the wleer. Hortenala is a blue,
which may be that color or may be a mauve lust as
on fancies, and aero la another ahade that haa been
' pounced upon by eoores of womea. principally became
no one Quite knows under what color to put it, whether
gray, tauv. or dull Indefinite blua
mm
The dressmakers uive been most active In routing
out new names for old oolors or hi finding new tint
that, may be made from a eomblnattoa of several that
are pass; and seme. Ilk Polret and Brandt, both of
Pi
THE
cJn
ll l& we
whom dress many of the stage production, let it be
known that they will have anything tinted that a ous- '
tomer can describe even In the vaguest term. Thus it
may be seen that w are possibly in for a new era in th
matter of color and that any on with a vivid Imag
ination may allow it a free hand in choosing her color
and its accompanying name.
For th everyday folk who Hke conventional clothe
It may be stated that stripes and checks both promts
to have an enormous success during all the coming sea
son. Btrlpes are to be seen in every grade of material
and I have lately Been some ready to wear tailored cos
tumes that were quite beyond what on would expect
to find. They were made of different sired stripes, all,
however, being In black and whit, and th goods were
either Cheviot or cashmere delaine. Both these mate
rials are popular tills spring for light weight suit.
In all th modal seen the skirts are th regulation
narrow edge and most of them are untrimmed. On
model, however, was slightly different, showing a email
panel shaped piece at either aide, five or elx inch wide
at the bottom and tapering off to nothing as It ap
proached th kneea These inaerted pieces were of whit
Cloth, ratine, or corduroy, and th skirt showed a line
of small button on either side, these being of steel 01
gilt.
Th ooat that wi nt with this skirt had a collar, small
but sharply poluted revere, and ouffs of white, and thla
also had a trimming of buttons to match. The striped
goods was cashmere, th stripe being half an Inch wlda,
and th suit was as smart as It could ba Th prlo
need not be mentioned, but It was so small that almost
any one could have afforded it
A ohevlot model was of narrow stripes, th skirt show
ing a piping of bright blue on its seama The coat of
thla had a great deal of style, being made like a double
garment one being a half fitting coat that lust covered
th hips, while th other resembled a bolero without
sleeves. This form of making It allowed of much of
ttie blue piping being used, and this, with the addition
of flat steel buttons, mad It an extremely dressy little
costume Uke Its fellow, this was Inexpensive, and
like it also. It was In exceedingly good tasta
While stripes are being so much used for suits, checks
seem to be more popular for entire gowns which are
made up tailored In out and finish. These little frocks
have never been so much worn as they are this spring
and they promise to hold their own for street use until
well Into the summer.
v Of blouses it may be well to say that it la a positive
OMAHA1 SUNDAY BEE: 'MAY
DRESSED f OMf
MM .
L3
necessity Uiat thess match the suit In color, whatever
that may be, end that th light weight fabrics, such as
marquisette, chiffon, cotton voile, and cotton crepe, are
all preferred to anything in silks, crepe de chines, and
the Ilka All of these materials are transparent so that
the lining may be. if one wishes It of a different color
and one that la decidedly contrasting. These lining,
(oo. must be thin, but not necessarily transparent
'I
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21. 1911V
ii.
As dark blu, gray, taupe, and black are th usual
colors seen for tailored costumes, soma charming
blouses are made of these same colorings, veiling such
tints as oorlse, mandarlno, apple green, or any other
hade that one likes, the bright ones, however, being
the prettiest There Is usually a touch of embroidery
on th outside material, but only Just enough to give
character, and this Is generally self-toned, picked out
with black, white, or threads of gold.
With the present fashionable black and white striped
costume th problem of th blous Is rather complicat
ed, for It requires a good deal of skill to combine other
black and white materials with any so striking as a
tripe. Borne women adhere rigidly to the lingerie
blouse, but thess generally use It only as a back
ground for jabots and cravats and never under any
clroumstsnoes remove their ooat. Others go In for
blouses also made of striped goods but of something
thin, but somehow these do not give th ldss of smart
ness no matter bow perfectly they match nor how well
they are worn,
The best that have so far been seen are those In
which th two oolors sre combined, tout in a totally
different manner. On good model seen recently was
of whit liberty satin, mads with th usual khnono
sleeve and rather baggy bodice part There was a
short yoks and a rather high collar of Irish lao. th
former extending over th shoulder and off onto th
top of th sleave. Directly down the oerrter of the
front and back as well, wa a six inch band of black
satin finished on nhr side with a row of tiny black
satin buttona These band ended an loch or two below
the line of the bust, where they -were met by a wider
band which extended around th blouse, this also being
of black satin. When on this rave th affeot of a high
belt and was pretty and becoming to the figure.
Another model, whloh was intended to be worn with
a striped costume, had for its foundation a brilll nt
shade of green chiffon. Th upper part of thla MntAg
and the upper part of the sleeves were veiled In whin
marquisette, while the lower half of both bodlo and
sleeve were made of black saarquleetta both colors
showing well over th green lining. Where th
two material were joined there was some em
broidery, but not of the regulation sort Thl in
stead wa a sort of Irregular work don tn black and
white silks, which had a shaded appearance and con
veyed no Idea of a pattern or design, but It was wide
and gave just the right connecting link between th
blaok and white stuffs.
A similar touch of embroidery finished th round neck
and the edge of the sleeve. This fashion, by the way
of a bright lining with black and white blouses Is chl4
and when they are worn the hat is supposed to match
the lining. This is easily accomplished, either by th
trimming or by th straw or material of which it may
be mada
For wearing with colored tailored aults or with those
of silk serge wool crepe blouses are fashionable, or
those made of brocaded crepe de chine. In th former
one attractive model wa mad In a soft taupe shad
tint. Just a shad lighter than the costume for whloh It
was Intended. The front and back were covered from
the throat nearly to th bust with light embroidery
done In black, mandarin, and white, this last color
being entirely of much raised French dots. Th neck
of the little garment was round and In plac of open
ing down either back or front the shoulders and upper
part of the sleeves were left open and th fastening
was made by Irish crochet buttons and small loops.
It gave the blouss an elaborate appearance juid In real
ity it was quit simple.
A crfp de chine model shown at ons of ths best
places vii stunning, although this was UtU trimmed
and at first glance presented no unusual features. It
was of a deep mustard color and th pattern of the bro
cade was largs and striking. About ths neck, which
was round, were rows of bead trimming, one white, on
black, and each half an inch wlda On th front of th
blouss were two goodslzed plaoques, on oblong, th
lower on square, and these were made of black and
whit beads, the black predominating. From the lower
motlv hung a abort bead fringe, and fringe also fin
ished the sleeves, which were well below th elbow.
The gown for which this blouse was Intended wa
of mustard colored silk serge,, with collar, cuffs, and
facings of black satin.
Many of the brocaded crp de ohlne blouse show
th pattern picked out In dull silver thread or In fin
black silk, and a portion of them are embroidered,
sometimes atartllngly bright shade being used. On
seen recently was of nattier blue, tarnished silver
thread being uaed on this. This outlined every bit of
th pattern, which was rather a spreading one and not
too fin. In addition th pattern was of embroidery in
wool In soft, dull shades of greens, rose, and yellows,
this embroidery going in a band about the center and
on th upper part of the sleevea It was made over a
gutmp and chemisette of sliver lao and had under
sleeves of the sameand was altogether chsrmlng.
Printed and atanipsd chiffon, voiles, and crepes are
having a tremendous vogue for Inexpensive blouses.
They are to be found in every known color and In such
a variety of patterns that one la fairly bewildered. Th
best show oriental designs, soma In strong tints, othsrs
la faded effects, many of these really resembling old
materials. Egyptian deslgna Moorish and Turkish pst
terna, copies of old altar oloths, or bits of floral tapes
trie are all considered good and one cannot go amis
In selecting one of these for ordinary usa
They ar all mad la th sam way, and if on wishes
to buy the squares the making of them Is arfeany mat
ter. Most hav small gulmpss end oollars of thin tull
and a band of om deep colored ahiffon to finish th
lower part of th sleeves. They ar un lined, but most
of them should be worn over a llk foundation, boned
and fitted, or mad Ilk an ordinary ooreet cover, as
aa preser.
