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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (April 23, 1911)
TITIXJ)MAHA SUNDAY BEEg 'ATMIII, 23. 1011. DRESS D fowl (2111 PI H EC D E9 by o: MA BY ELEANOR O'DONNELL. 'mm? lend themselves Straight natural- UiUKBV toe an unwritten law of rood taerta that da dress of the girl graduate should be simple and entirely without affecta tion. Ttie eubtle effects, tha vailln; of Wtastva colors, ' tha glinting silver and fold that ara anion a factor of 4nm this aaon ara not for bar. . graduate's olothea muat be frankJy ma tmmatataJTjr young young In simplicity and modaaty of atyla. Between 16 and 20 there la acaroely my aartorlaJ effect Impossible with gtrltnh freshness TOioruvc. ana tne slim girlish Un to all tha simpler atylea of costume. tha mode of tha present. Thooh tha silhouette atlll keeps slender and tha Torta ara of narrow cut. yet many of the smartest aod "sweat models show a tendency towarda greater toMneea. The Corday start has a slightly fulled over Py and many of the graduating- frocks are made Zlm ? iT nttiD toP to . which a scantily gathered raffle U added at the bottom. mv - THera are no absolutely plain sklrtsr this year. There are omikMi and tunica, folds of the materials or wide straight flounces and occasionally bands of laces There ara many new Ideas shown In the arrangement of plaits ? , .A wide .Inverted plait, at the back of VZ?lL a ? t'ht panel left open from " irequenuy seen. The skirts tms plait araaaatraigitvtaa ever, but with this ofb fullness- the ugly lines are done away with. Stoesa panel sWrta, by ttia way, are not smart this summer unlcawthe panel ts narrow d la of ern wMth, Its entire length. The OM theory of a panel narrowing toward the walat Mm la entirely out of date; the most desired effect of every skirt la to make the wearer lot aa straight and flat as possible. Blg walat -are -quite tha order of the day. To ptneb tha figure in anywhere above the feipa and thus make them promdnent Is to be ffcite impoeasblei aa to figure. Straight as possible must-toe the-whoie costume. . &t&&$i V with i 'nOwTMrn ill ') Mtimese . v unconsetea g ' " s V Rf I . V Wo V ft V '.1 1 a 'X ' ' V -A WW'- 3? 5& "a 3S u Nearly all the really smart frocks shown for .grad uation wear are made In one piece, but at the same time a tunic effect Is given. In many cases by trim mings ,or by a band carried around below the kneea Btomatlmea, however, there Is a separate underskirt and a tunla, but as a rule the frock Is a one piece founda tion draped over or decorated to give a high watsted tunto effect. The long line thus produced la extremely graceful. It la the same In fashions as In all other things, thst tff stand still la to go Lack. Progression la develop ment, but fashion does not always move forward; It darts backward and -forward and keeps things in a mighty atlr. Tunica of transparent cloth are excessively used this season, but they are narrow and short and seem to do without gathers or plaits. Tha satin and silk slips orar which they are mounted are dropped In straight from the waist and do not measure quite two yards around tha hem. They are more apt to be long than ahort. Bodices and blouses are appreciably influenced by lb direotolre styles which call for slenderness. The waist Una has become blissfully Independent. Just at present the only blouse style that la not recognised la the long walated blouse. The perfectly round baby blouse la a great favorite and the waist Una 1 shown ea all these models about two or three Inches above tha norma L Tha empire waist line, too, has eonquered all op position and la revived in full fashion.! There la gen erally a foundation, cut all In one; on 1t a short and rather full corsage ts arranged.' extending aa a rule but a little below the bust and under that the natural Una. of the waist la Indicated. Saahea will be much worn this summer, especially with graduating frocks. They will be made mostly of wide satin ribbon. Never before have ribbons been so beautiful aa thle aeason. Probably the newest of these sashes la tha one ahowlng a large Japanese bow. with two long ends. This Geisha bow figures upon some of the modish, short waisted graduating frocks. Tha bow la sometimes mads so that It covers tha back from walat line to shoulder blade. A. square bow of moderate alxa and without ends la often posed In the middle back to finish tha folded girdle or head tha atralght panel. Then again there are aa many aa a Aoxen loops, one falling over the other, and each a trine longer than tha loop above. Where the aeah snds are fastened to the girdle, which passes around the walat line a little above the normal, there la a flat, round rosette of the ribbon shirred over tha cords, or soma ahort loopa. pointing upward from the knots. Instead of outward In tha manner of the old-fashioned satin saahea. Some of the saah ribbons reach juU ts tha hem. Others fall only to the knees f c.ri rfi! iiuiiflii m , iniiml .V 1! illil ft" rt-X a' f ' ' . ' - banding of Irish Crochet. and the little butterfly sash, made of broad ribbon, has ends only as long as the huge loops which are tied In the back directly In tha center. The collar playa an Important role In graduating frocks or rather the absence of It. Ths bare throat fad which waa launohed with the thitch neck and collar less blouses, has steadily gained ground despite the protest of women who rowed that they would never give up high collars and who were convinced that they would never look well with their throats uncov ered. Nearly all graduating frocks shown are cut down at least to ths pit of the throat Elbow sleeves are also quite usual. It is to be hoped, however, that thla fashion for short sleeves on every garment will not bring upon us the tide of elbow sleeves worn without any regard to hour or place which engulfed us a coupls of seasons ago. However, there Is little use In hoping when every straw points thst way. Tha small sleeve Is decidedly In fashion. The new short sleeve expresses Itself In a wide and Ingenious vsriety of ways. One's brain aches to think of all the time and trouble It baa taken to Invent clever and differing elbow sleeves. Ths peasant sleeve has been the foundation of all these The sleeve that reaches half way to ths elbow Is tha sleeve to choose for tha graduating frock. Aa It Is made of transparent ma terial and quite flat It Is moat becoming. Wben it was In fashion before It was apt to be made with a lining and was slightly buffed, neither of which features was graceful. Those who have etrelght kimono sleeves in their blouses need not wear gulmpea nnder them any mora. Instead they can sew in a band of four Inch lace Inserting which has a finished edga Among the sheer fabrics alvown for graduatea' frocks are the new mouasellnes, which look Ilka tapestry re duced to cobweba. These come In white In damask weave and In weaves with email garlands of flowers, caught with bow and ends. Cotton voiles, marquisettes, and the chiffon cloths are also popular and practical' materials. In regard to coiffures for the girl graduate: In spite of women's recent emancipation from hard and fa.it coiffure rules, there Is one In present hair dressing that la widely followed. You may look and look, but you will not aee the allghtest Indication of ears. Cover up your ears Is the mandate that fashion has Issued. And covered they are, with the hair simply fluffed down . over them, or loose curia quite covering them. Everywhere the rarted coiffure rules, the pompadour la aeen no mare. The most popular coiffure Is the simple parted hair dress, the hair arranged full ami soft about the face, while the hair Itself is colled low on the neck and twisted Into what Is called the wash erwoman's knot. The effect Is most simple and girlish. Occasionally a wide braid la worn across the back of the head or spread to ths crown. It Is universally becoming. There la alao a revival of the Psychs knot. But remember that It requires a perfect profile to adopt extreme coiffures. Take a hand mlrrsrrand view your hair at the back and the aides before deciding definitely which of the new coiffures you will adopt. Remember, too, that there muat be no more puffs, no more curls, and no more of the long worn pompadour. The woman or girl who would appear her best must learn the effectiveness of dress. She muat know that incongruity mars a costume which would be pleasing Id' Its propsr place and time. Simplicity marks the aress or ine wise ana pretty girl graduate, but It is the simplicity that Is carefully followed out with auit aWllty aa Its keynota In simple Arcadia, of course, all men would have brains and all women beauty, and as there would be enough of each to go around, all would ring as mer rlly as a marrlsge bell. Only we dwell not In'Aroadla, or anywhere near It, but only In a tired old world. The fancy tailored suit shows ths little bolero or Eton Jacket. Otherwise the costs are short and empha sise high waist Una at ths back. The skirts of some of tho newest ttllored frocks are narrow and notloeably longer; so long that they almost touoh the ground In walking. One of the new white aerge gowns has emerald green marquisette chemisette and cuffs, green sash, and closes In cross over affect to below the knees, with buttons. 4 ; ay. 1 f w ..v a -' . " ) i Jtyvncess jfpocJcn allovez9 Jftnbpoidepiand 'Lace over JZosepink , Jterl&n and Scarf cfJZose piniG ctiitfon. jj l-acs gowns, lace coats, lace tunics, lace everwatata, lace acarfa and mantlea lace abundant la gain to make a prominent part of the summer's wardrobe. Tulle frills, plaited, edge the short sleeves of thin summer frocks, and plaited tulle frills finish also tha bottoms of ths sklrta Borne of the new skirts are cut with what is appar ently a shaped flounce, which, however, does not flare perceptibly st the bottom. Bordure silks are extremely fashionable. Borders are AZinpepie Govmin while . aliovep mbroideri, wide Gjraie of Hghi 2ueS22: of every width and design and suggest endless possU billtles of applying them to bodice and aklrt The new dull finish foulards in bright oolora ara stunning trimmed with plain satin, mouaaeltne, and heavy lace. Extremely large collars of heavy lace are being worn on many suits and dresses. Borne ara called tha " Char- , lotte Corday " collars, and all are charming. 6ome collars are of linen, worked up in eyelet, drawn work, and solid embroidery. Colored thread Is used, sometimes on the scalloped borders and, In working the eyelets, the latter giving a new and attractive effect. Sailor collars, with or without jabots, ara being shown by all tha lea.Ung blouse shops. Materiala aura varied and trimming Is applied In many wsys. Fichus of tulle, edged with narrow tnlle plaiting, ara worn with simple, abort walated frocks of figured crepes and muslins. The cobweb or shadow veilings are atlll popular, but let the veilings with a blotch In the form of a butterfly or spider be consigned to the back part of the ahalf. Chiffon In checked and striped patterns Is In vogue for the drape veils over large hate, and neta ara In plain and fancy weavea. Cerlss silk stockings will bs worn with white eerga suits and gowns when white slippers ere added; thef will also be worn with black patent leather pumpa when cerise la added to the hat. or to the ault aa a blouse. Parasols of white silk edged with a narrow border ol white ostrich feathers, with stick and handle of Paris. Ian Ivory, are chsrmlng and will, without doubt, fln great favor. Many of the new parasols are embroidered In beads, others are trimmed with motifs of lace, braid. gM embroidery. There la a great fancy at the moment to employ a? ends, one or two, and of any desired length. HanYiaom1 onea are of velvet and satin, with handsome Uk frlng on tha edga These aash ends are worn directly front or back or again at the aide. Plain black hats for all occasion a have bands of oei-ise aatln around the brim or a panache of plumes In this color at the back. In all the ootffurea there la the same tendency to cover the ears'. Bom. times Just a deep wave In the hair fllla-thls mission; again a little curl or puff la employed. ' V 4 1