(122) Ql11ts4f ELI BtOEl f 0t
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Wti Knickers To be tWii 7 - 4 I H i I
: V JlL Bitot JfeoiTe ' : - U P ! Ai'tttf W Tl
sV ITTU In white underwear have changed . C ' ' - ) 1 1 ' ' Tl f - "fT""" ' v ' '( JIU. 1
S little from those shown in the. winter ' , ' . - ' ' $'-"' .$1 f f fat &S4
senaon. Dalntlneaa is their greatest " ' :C J iMdiiili Tasiii """''
charm.. I.acea In the majority of cases ' " u , ' i t ' - L Jvy- m!!--, F
Isw ars of the durable kind, and this is no- f'f.immn -, "'' U I '', vVafKRlVf JfcT
tf 'iS?rS ioble even onthe moat expensive of f7A J t " riJ J.g'.T if . , ; s XcY it. " j4LA'.
1 1 inf Cluny, baby Irish, snd val lacs trim ; ) fiff 8h.OW Ao CTe-CVeSJ-1 f0" CT ' SVii i . ' ' ' v 1 fwf.lAsV. "j'
tha handaotnest of the Imported snd domestic under- , i fflKl tile 3 1 2',cr,ZrJ2'l JTatT n!'! 1 v iSffj-?' JH Kl
wear. These are combined a groat many times with - , fjj T jv, j A Strt5c57v J hi if V .,, , ,t niA. 'i n I
had embroidery deaigna. The sheem, and fine qual- v , . , tl W T2SS. T 9 A, U Jt I JIk. I " " iUt A.' I
Ity Of ths material used for the construction of the -e w JTlpnaSlZea.- ' , SJZA. ;r " A ' l I
used this' season are so soft that the Introduction of a v ' "rT ' ' ' Ti-7' -" " , ?v f 'IB llllfl ' R
little fullness does not make any difference, as tha ' ' I " f I 1 T-i ' " j f ! ' i 111 lull I
garment falls In soft folds under a drees built on ' i t - " - i-JLs,: uiu-lJ i l i i j f f ' ' i ' ? 5 111 1 n 1 1 111 H
traight lines. 1 - ' ; lliWi 1 'Xl V jffl I - 5 1 ' I 1 I I Ml llll' 1
Trimmings on yokes of nightgowns, chemises, and '.., I U) rS I' 1 2- i YJSA ' ' i 1 ' I lU Hill B
chemises, and
empire effect.
and while these ehortwalntsd llnea have been uaed for
extras time. thJa season tney hare met with special
favor. Ribbons In aof t pastel ahades are fashioned In
dainty bow a or mod I ah roaettee aa finishing touches.
Tfoere la also an apparent unlimited use of lace and
embroidery beading in wide patterns.
Everywhere there is an Increased demand for com
Mnattona. Corsat covers and draw era and cornet covers
and skirts mads In, princess, cut with narrow gores
extending In unbroken Una from yoke to bottom of
edge, are well liked, as they eliminate unnecessary
bulkrnese.. ' Buttonhole flnlah Is uaed at the bottom of
the drawers and skirt with the same Idea in mind.
The fashion Idea In regard to underwear is fhat It
must be perfectly smooth fitting. There must be abso
lutely no bulklneas about walat or hips. The smooth
Una of the hips muat bs preserved and whle skirts
are somewhat fuller, there muat bs that pretty clinging
movement about the feet. It Is Impossible to attain
this If tha full petticoats ars worn. Even where women
do wear petticoats they have this season adopted tha
plan of being fitted without them, and moat women con
tinue to wear, as they did last season, the sheathbocker,
an : Illustration of which is given on tula page.
This la simply the culotte with corset cover made In
one. It is always mads of soft silk or handkerchief
Mnen or sheer cotton and simply trimmed about the
neck, so ss not to Interfere with the fit of the corsage.
The women who are wearing petticoats Insist on hav
ing them made of the aofteat material. For practical
purposes thay are nearly all Jersey tops. A deep ac
cordion plaited flounce Is applied knee length, the edge
of whlcti haa a narrow ruffle flnlah to ksep the skirt
from clinging to the feet.
The lingerie pettlooats are all of fine whit batlats.
of ens of the aoft thin silks, that may have flounce
trimmed with entredeux of lace. Ttw culottes or ths
sheath knickers will bs much worn with the scant petti
coat. They give auchy' freedom and grace of movement;
there la absolutely no weight to them, they do away
wrth extra fullness about ths waist and adjust them
selves to the figure so well that they are altogether
admirable for the new fashions,
Of con re, elaborate lingerie pettlcoata are shown for
Wwdoir wear. The mtjorlly of tha fancy pettlcoata are
of some soft allk or satin, and these are ahown In
all the fashionable colors and shades. Meaaallne, lib
arty, tuaaor, china allk. and even crepe are uaed to
make thara. The colored onea are mostly eelf-trjrnmed.
Black and white striped silk trimmed with rows upon
rows of black velvet ribbon is a style that is a persnnlal
favorite. Thsn there are quantities of pale colored silks
and white, these trimmed with leoee.
For negligee wear ars ahown axpenalva tea gowns,
tunics of transparent materials, hung from a short
wait line and finished with bandings of rich embroidery
edged with allk ball fringe. Othsr styles have elaborate
patterns worked out in hand embroidery or the drapery
Is composed entirely of blaok or white chantllly lace.
The tunics ef chiffon or marquleette hung from the
boulders are not attached, but are made In loose three
quarter coat effect and are worn over the finished tea
gown wihen more dreeay effects are required. Peasant
lines are Incorporated In the yokes and aleevea and
banded or tunic effects are acquired in the skirt section
by tha arrangomsnt of the trimmings.
The simple styles of negligees are cut mostly on
kimono llnea. wtth laoa or embroidery trimmings flatly
applied. The more dressy empire models have wide box
plaits hung from a short sued waist lias and ending in
a slight train.
In oorsets ths Increasing vogue of tha flexible a IT sets
la everywhere aeeo. Nor Is this Idea confined to the
high grade) models.
It Is absolutely Impossible to have the present style
of dress look well unless a correct, well fitting coreet
Is selected. , The lines of tha new corset are those of
health and comfort. The present fashion of tha nearly
btplesa, straight back, fiat figure Its. according to
artists, tha nearest ws hava svar corns to that of ths
perfect woman figure.
THE
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A Yew JVkiSt &r -the 2e?ararffir
Je.3t(pr-i.ccl -toTalce ttie Place 0
the CoTsctr-
In planning an outfit a corset alwaya ought to bs the
first garment fitted. Far too many women have new
gowns fitted over half worn corsets, only to find that
long before the gown is ready to be laid aside the
coreet will have to be replaced by a new one of a dif
ferent shape. For the old styls of corsets are con- '
stantly being thrown out U make room for the new.
In this case the gown will hava to be refitted.
The work of transforming the hour glaaa figure Into
one of classic or atralghter outline began several years
ago, and It must be continued this season.
The first thing necessary to remedy the defects of
the hour glasa figure is to choose the rLght model for a
corset.
This summer s woman muat look alender. It la much
eaaler than it sounds, for the, modern corsets are cut
so cleverly that they can accomplish mlraclee. They
do not really reduce the figure, but they reduce Its
actual measurement. For instance, they will cut the
front gora rather wide and the gore next to It decidedly
narrow, so that the tlaaues are drawn towards the sides
and tha figure is fiattensd. They will put an elastio
gure in the aklrt of the coraet so that tha skirt can
spread g trifle when one sits down and draw in again
when one stands up.
For a alender woman tha corset must be cut on
straight lines, with as little difference as possible be
tween the else of the hips, waist, and bust. stout
woman, of oourse. could not wear a corset of that type,
even in her correct slxe. It would not have aufflcient
room across ths lilps and bust. For her a corset is
uiads gored ao that it is laxgrer above and below the
walat line than at It. These ate Important polnta which
women must remember whan 4urchasuig corsets.
OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: MARCH
y. .
or niQhtooHhi
.in &-tzxvoed dimity wj'i
Insets of I4f.cc c3rtt TSnxhrwidiCTy:
1
have aeen women buy corsets because Uiey lUeJ
niaurlal they were made of. the lace at tha top, or
some other thoroughly feminine and abaolutely incon
aequentlal Idea. They cau t do that thia season.
In the new corsets -t,hs sklrte are all long, ao that
the hgure is carefully hid in below the hlpe and there
la no break at the lower edge. There must be at least
three hoae eupportere; atout women will require more.
The corsets are longer in the front and sides than they
wera last year and shorter in the back.
Of course, one's height must regulate tha leogtb of
tha corsets. If you are short you Daturally cannot
wear a corset that la long; you can wear one that is
long for you It should reach a little more than half
way to the knees at ths front, but in actual inches it
will be as much shorter than a corset fur a tall woman
aa you are shorter than ahe is.
After settling the matter of length you muat be quite
aa particular about ths slxs of your corset. Corsets
should rn assure three Inches smaller than the waist
measure. Of oourse, you can wear them smaller by
10. 1011.
Yoke TZcL&e of 2fbirs o-f 3Tn xrMm Z&ftxcoatrc
g longer laces, but they won t fit you and you will
si.ffer for K.
Then there are the laclnga to conaider, too. Lacings
must be long and aoft and flexible. A corset can never
be properly adjusted by a stiff, coarse lacing; neither
Is width desirable. A soft, flat silk or mercerised lac
ing, half an inch wide, is the correct thing. Tha eyelets
In a corset should never bs mora than half an Inch'
apart, and even closer together at the waist line.
A common error la the belief that a high buet coraet
gives the appearance of a lengthened walat. It la true
that ths line from tha buat to the walat line Is length
ened, but the line from the 'shoulder to the bust is
shortened so that tha effect of length is destroyed and
the true proportions are distorted. When the buat ia
low the waist line In front can ba pushed down to a
proaar proportion. .
In fitting a corset tha first thing ia to hava tha coreet
open to ths full extant of its lacee. Use laces from
sight to ten yards In length, ao cording to tha length of
the const. When tha corset Is fully spread place It
around tha figure without lifting the flesh of tha ab
domen and clasp.
Now fasten the . hose supporters aiVd ses that tha
corset is well down on the figure. The next step Is to
pall the laclnga at the waist line ao that the corset can
neither slip up nor down. The position at tha waist
Una must bs secure. Consequently it is necessary to
draw tha laoea tight, then bagtu to lace la the hip Una
'I Ills ia done by pulling the laces at the extreme lower
edge of the corset, drawing them upward toward tha
waiat lina Keep the same distance In the separation of
the coraet stays in the back. Never draw them too
cloaely at any one point or they will surely bulge
When the comet Is fitted to the walet line and hips, be
gin to Itiee the bust. Laoa from the top to the waist
line. Be sure to preserve the same distance In the open
apace. The ataya muat be on a direct line from top tn
bottom, otherwise the ateel will twlat and there will
be a bulging line.
In addition to adjusting the corset arouml the figure
there are other points to consider. Bit down and ar
If the coraet ateel la too long in front, the slays in the
back too long, or ths boning over tha hlpa obtrunlve
Note the coraet from the walat line up. Don It sup
port without lifting tha buat? Thia ia correct.
Is it sufficiently high at the back to support ths fles.j
at thia point and yet not so high as to form a ridge.
If tha ateel In front Is too long the corset will round,
giving a line which Is most objectionable.
If the ateela In the baok are too long they strike the
chair when alttlng. If the corset Is too full ovsr the
hips or at the bust a seam iioat be taken, or If too
small a gors Inserted.
When removing the coreet the strings should be un
tied and corset fully unlaced before it I uii'laipel
This saves a strain on the corset and H retains Its
shape longer.
