(122) Ql11ts4f ELI BtOEl f 0t '.fe'r !t ! Hti P1 ' ; - ? .7 1 ?'(!.! y II Wti Knickers To be tWii 7 - 4 I H i I : V JlL Bitot JfeoiTe ' : - U P ! Ai'tttf W Tl sV ITTU In white underwear have changed . C ' ' - ) 1 1 ' ' Tl f - "fT""" ' v ' '( JIU. 1 S little from those shown in the. winter ' , ' . - ' ' $'-"' .$1 f f fat &S4 senaon. Dalntlneaa is their greatest " ' :C J iMdiiili Tasiii """'' charm.. I.acea In the majority of cases ' " u , ' i t ' - L Jvy- m!!--, F Isw ars of the durable kind, and this is no- f'f.immn -, "'' U I '', vVafKRlVf JfcT tf 'iS?rS ioble even onthe moat expensive of f7A J t " riJ J.g'.T if . , ; s XcY it. " j4LA'. 1 1 inf Cluny, baby Irish, snd val lacs trim ; ) fiff 8h.OW Ao CTe-CVeSJ-1 f0" CT ' SVii i . ' ' ' v 1 fwf.lAsV. "j' tha handaotnest of the Imported snd domestic under- , i fflKl tile 3 1 2',cr,ZrJ2'l JTatT n!'! 1 v iSffj-?' JH Kl wear. These are combined a groat many times with - , fjj T jv, j A Strt5c57v J hi if V .,, , ,t niA. 'i n I had embroidery deaigna. The sheem, and fine qual- v , . , tl W T2SS. T 9 A, U Jt I JIk. I " " iUt A.' I Ity Of ths material used for the construction of the -e w JTlpnaSlZea.- ' , SJZA. ;r " A ' l I used this' season are so soft that the Introduction of a v ' "rT ' ' ' Ti-7' -" " , ?v f 'IB llllfl ' R little fullness does not make any difference, as tha ' ' I " f I 1 T-i ' " j f ! ' i 111 lull I garment falls In soft folds under a drees built on ' i t - " - i-JLs,: uiu-lJ i l i i j f f ' ' i ' ? 5 111 1 n 1 1 111 H traight lines. 1 - ' ; lliWi 1 'Xl V jffl I - 5 1 ' I 1 I I Ml llll' 1 Trimmings on yokes of nightgowns, chemises, and '.., I U) rS I' 1 2- i YJSA ' ' i 1 ' I lU Hill B chemises, and empire effect. and while these ehortwalntsd llnea have been uaed for extras time. thJa season tney hare met with special favor. Ribbons In aof t pastel ahades are fashioned In dainty bow a or mod I ah roaettee aa finishing touches. Tfoere la also an apparent unlimited use of lace and embroidery beading in wide patterns. Everywhere there is an Increased demand for com Mnattona. Corsat covers and draw era and cornet covers and skirts mads In, princess, cut with narrow gores extending In unbroken Una from yoke to bottom of edge, are well liked, as they eliminate unnecessary bulkrnese.. ' Buttonhole flnlah Is uaed at the bottom of the drawers and skirt with the same Idea in mind. The fashion Idea In regard to underwear is fhat It must be perfectly smooth fitting. There must be abso lutely no bulklneas about walat or hips. The smooth Una of the hips muat bs preserved and whle skirts are somewhat fuller, there muat bs that pretty clinging movement about the feet. It Is Impossible to attain this If tha full petticoats ars worn. Even where women do wear petticoats they have this season adopted tha plan of being fitted without them, and moat women con tinue to wear, as they did last season, the sheathbocker, an : Illustration of which is given on tula page. This la simply the culotte with corset cover made In one. It is always mads of soft silk or handkerchief Mnen or sheer cotton and simply trimmed about the neck, so ss not to Interfere with the fit of the corsage. The women who are wearing petticoats Insist on hav ing them made of the aofteat material. For practical purposes thay are nearly all Jersey tops. A deep ac cordion plaited flounce Is applied knee length, the edge of whlcti haa a narrow ruffle flnlah to ksep the skirt from clinging to the feet. The lingerie pettlooats are all of fine whit batlats. of ens of the aoft thin silks, that may have flounce trimmed with entredeux of lace. Ttw culottes or ths sheath knickers will bs much worn with the scant petti coat. They give auchy' freedom and grace of movement; there la absolutely no weight to them, they do away wrth extra fullness about ths waist and adjust them selves to the figure so well that they are altogether admirable for the new fashions, Of con re, elaborate lingerie pettlcoata are shown for Wwdoir wear. The mtjorlly of tha fancy pettlcoata are of some soft allk or satin, and these are ahown In all the fashionable colors and shades. Meaaallne, lib arty, tuaaor, china allk. and even crepe are uaed to make thara. The colored onea are mostly eelf-trjrnmed. Black and white striped silk trimmed with rows upon rows of black velvet ribbon is a style that is a persnnlal favorite. Thsn there are quantities of pale colored silks and white, these trimmed with leoee. For negligee wear ars ahown axpenalva tea gowns, tunics of transparent materials, hung from a short wait line and finished with bandings of rich embroidery edged with allk ball fringe. Othsr styles have elaborate patterns worked out in hand embroidery or the drapery Is composed entirely of blaok or white chantllly lace. The tunics ef chiffon or marquleette hung from the boulders are not attached, but are made In loose three quarter coat effect and are worn over the finished tea gown wihen more dreeay effects are required. Peasant lines are Incorporated In the yokes and aleevea and banded or tunic effects are acquired in the skirt section by tha arrangomsnt of the trimmings. The simple styles of negligees are cut mostly on kimono llnea. wtth laoa or embroidery trimmings flatly applied. The more dressy empire models have wide box plaits hung from a short sued waist lias and ending in a slight train. In oorsets ths Increasing vogue of tha flexible a IT sets la everywhere aeeo. Nor Is this Idea confined to the high grade) models. It Is absolutely Impossible to have the present style of dress look well unless a correct, well fitting coreet Is selected. , The lines of tha new corset are those of health and comfort. The present fashion of tha nearly btplesa, straight back, fiat figure Its. according to artists, tha nearest ws hava svar corns to that of ths perfect woman figure. THE i . - r . U -., L-i 1 1 r 1 : i :V-v :ir--..'11 1 - - i ii s t . 1 . s- ' ' W nil . ' ' -:r- . v " i it -V ' S Hi J r. - 'i V" ' t ' ' - I & Jht't:' ' 1111 I ;-";-v--o I','."'! , -.v.--A ; ' . , is (-'-. P FTl :,- ' .' " jJL" "A-I5- . . ' - . , 1 i ';... 1 ...if iij A Yew JVkiSt &r -the 2e?ararffir Je.3t(pr-i.ccl -toTalce ttie Place 0 the CoTsctr- In planning an outfit a corset alwaya ought to bs the first garment fitted. Far too many women have new gowns fitted over half worn corsets, only to find that long before the gown is ready to be laid aside the coreet will have to be replaced by a new one of a dif ferent shape. For the old styls of corsets are con- ' stantly being thrown out U make room for the new. In this case the gown will hava to be refitted. The work of transforming the hour glaaa figure Into one of classic or atralghter outline began several years ago, and It must be continued this season. The first thing necessary to remedy the defects of the hour glasa figure is to choose the rLght model for a corset. This summer s woman muat look alender. It la much eaaler than it sounds, for the, modern corsets are cut so cleverly that they can accomplish mlraclee. They do not really reduce the figure, but they reduce Its actual measurement. For instance, they will cut the front gora rather wide and the gore next to It decidedly narrow, so that the tlaaues are drawn towards the sides and tha figure is fiattensd. They will put an elastio gure in the aklrt of the coraet so that tha skirt can spread g trifle when one sits down and draw in again when one stands up. For a alender woman tha corset must be cut on straight lines, with as little difference as possible be tween the else of the hips, waist, and bust. stout woman, of oourse. could not wear a corset of that type, even in her correct slxe. It would not have aufflcient room across ths lilps and bust. For her a corset is uiads gored ao that it is laxgrer above and below the walat line than at It. These ate Important polnta which women must remember whan 4urchasuig corsets. OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: MARCH y. . or niQhtooHhi .in &-tzxvoed dimity wj'i Insets of I4f.cc c3rtt TSnxhrwidiCTy: 1 have aeen women buy corsets because Uiey lUeJ niaurlal they were made of. the lace at tha top, or some other thoroughly feminine and abaolutely incon aequentlal Idea. They cau t do that thia season. In the new corsets -t,hs sklrte are all long, ao that the hgure is carefully hid in below the hlpe and there la no break at the lower edge. There must be at least three hoae eupportere; atout women will require more. The corsets are longer in the front and sides than they wera last year and shorter in the back. Of course, one's height must regulate tha leogtb of tha corsets. If you are short you Daturally cannot wear a corset that la long; you can wear one that is long for you It should reach a little more than half way to the knees at ths front, but in actual inches it will be as much shorter than a corset fur a tall woman aa you are shorter than ahe is. After settling the matter of length you muat be quite aa particular about ths slxs of your corset. Corsets should rn assure three Inches smaller than the waist measure. Of oourse, you can wear them smaller by 10. 1011. Yoke TZcL&e of 2fbirs o-f 3Tn xrMm Z&ftxcoatrc g longer laces, but they won t fit you and you will si.ffer for K. Then there are the laclnga to conaider, too. Lacings must be long and aoft and flexible. A corset can never be properly adjusted by a stiff, coarse lacing; neither Is width desirable. A soft, flat silk or mercerised lac ing, half an inch wide, is the correct thing. Tha eyelets In a corset should never bs mora than half an Inch' apart, and even closer together at the waist line. A common error la the belief that a high buet coraet gives the appearance of a lengthened walat. It la true that ths line from tha buat to the walat line Is length ened, but the line from the 'shoulder to the bust is shortened so that tha effect of length is destroyed and the true proportions are distorted. When the buat ia low the waist line In front can ba pushed down to a proaar proportion. . In fitting a corset tha first thing ia to hava tha coreet open to ths full extant of its lacee. Use laces from sight to ten yards In length, ao cording to tha length of the const. When tha corset Is fully spread place It around tha figure without lifting the flesh of tha ab domen and clasp. Now fasten the . hose supporters aiVd ses that tha corset is well down on the figure. The next step Is to pall the laclnga at the waist line ao that the corset can neither slip up nor down. The position at tha waist Una must bs secure. Consequently it is necessary to draw tha laoea tight, then bagtu to lace la the hip Una 'I Ills ia done by pulling the laces at the extreme lower edge of the corset, drawing them upward toward tha waiat lina Keep the same distance In the separation of the coraet stays in the back. Never draw them too cloaely at any one point or they will surely bulge When the comet Is fitted to the walet line and hips, be gin to Itiee the bust. Laoa from the top to the waist line. Be sure to preserve the same distance In the open apace. The ataya muat be on a direct line from top tn bottom, otherwise the ateel will twlat and there will be a bulging line. In addition to adjusting the corset arouml the figure there are other points to consider. Bit down and ar If the coraet ateel la too long in front, the slays in the back too long, or ths boning over tha hlpa obtrunlve Note the coraet from the walat line up. Don It sup port without lifting tha buat? Thia ia correct. Is it sufficiently high at the back to support ths fles.j at thia point and yet not so high as to form a ridge. If tha ateel In front Is too long the corset will round, giving a line which Is most objectionable. If the ateela In the baok are too long they strike the chair when alttlng. If the corset Is too full ovsr the hips or at the bust a seam iioat be taken, or If too small a gors Inserted. When removing the coreet the strings should be un tied and corset fully unlaced before it I uii'laipel This saves a strain on the corset and H retains Its shape longer.