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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (April 17, 1910)
4 TIIE CfttAITA' SUNDAY BEE: 'APHID 17, 1910. 1 1 I VERY CniC SPRING COWSS flEateriali for Them Ae Pretty, Color 1 Scheme Daring:. 1SEW VOGUE OF SI tS IN PAEI3 Poetical aide of Drrw lbimiri la te Xames of the fteannn'a Mi. teHals related neatas Especially Beaetlfel. KEW TORK, April W. The names of the new dress materials, like the names of the new colors, are full of suggestion, even of poetry, and it seems rather a pltty that none save the manufacturer and an ocra atonal buyer or dressmaker ever uses them. The ordinary salesman or customer lumps a eland of goods under one general head and makes one name aprrad Its charitable mantle over a wide area, but reading a Hat of names of Imported materials fills one's mind with vague dreams and visions. When a salenman talks of "flowered gauze," one can listen to him without a thrill, even though he bring forth the mnet enchanting of flowered atuffs to Illus trate his theme, but when one read In a rdescrlptlon of a Callot frock that It was made of "gauie rotllc-fleurs" straightway the poet In one awakes. Gauze of a thou sand flowera! That's quite a different thing from Cowered gauze. Then there la "fleur do printrmps im yrlme." The uninitiated might call lhat Selectable material "printed Kauze." As a FOUTjARD and chiffon. matter of fact It Is a gauze printed In small conventional designs, ibut It Is a pe culiar kind of gauze, ,a very lovely kind Of gai'tii "JTleiir fte printemps (flower of springtime), in name none too good for Ian t a moire Elhloplennn a more attrac tive thing than a moire poplin? Doesn't a Ninon Bekln, conjure up a more piquant vision than a blue and hKa altk voile? Yes. it's really a pity, tUat he, new sea son's materials cannot tell their real names. It would lend a zest to Bhopplnyr. gives a lyric touch to the buying tif. frock, rha terlal. Last week we saw a wonderful collection of samples, a collection to promote envy and despair In any feminine ur.uv; for to obtain goods like any one of a uujorliy of the samples was quite out of tho .juration. These pieces) of material, arranged neatly in large books had been made up from the exclusive materials of the greatest Parisian dressmaking houses. A New York im porter, a man who knew lntlmat'.My the : older generation of dress artists and has watched the present star r84 above the horizon, had the books made up for his own delectation ' and Information aa a source of color inspiration, an' authoritative verdict as to things ultra niodiith. a guide to be followed more or less closely, accord ing to the possibilities. I bam of the materials the jnan had im ported along with models for which similar material had been used, but' most of the sarrplea were unknown land and one looked them over with a sigh that was a tribute to ,the designers and manufacturers. Such lovely thlnga of all - weights, all classes! Page after page of gauze and J chiffon and etamlne. Scores of silks all varying in weight and weave, but likely by the undlscrlmlnatlng to be classed as foulards. The various phases of these upple, shimmering, printed silks were Im mensely attractive and some of them were a far cry from the ordinarily accepted foulard. . , There were beautiful printed twills, too, which American salesmen would also In clude among the foulards. Printed silk diagonals, printed crepe, printed crepon and printed cre antique ta crepe with very crimpy surface.) all are fashionable, all are beautiful. That word "implmee', (printed) appeara after a very large percentage ot tne names. Never has there been sucli a season of lovely printed designs in all materials,' but there are plenty of b roe he and ramage de signs, too, plain stuffs galore, embroidered designs and chameleon effects without number. Mention has been made earlier In the sea son of tho possibilities for striped materials and the vogue of the stripe seems to he lowly, but surely growing in Paris, though it has at yet found but a ellKht echo here. An exquisite Paquln frock In gray and white striped gauze with relieving touches of bleu lavande Is one of the lateot and most attractive importations In one well known ' house, and In another shop Is a charming model of wide striped periwinkle blue and white, with creamy lace and notes of black In the trimming. , Color combinations are often unusual JdVOTTN AND WHITE FOULARD. tP m-tmmi i n. m mini in mi ! wn mi minim, i n.n mi Wwmw bii iimiibiilii'iii iiii.iii i. ii i.i L...j nniiM 1 1 xmM .1 m. , I....LJ.- .ju ' 'i - ium"""" ! I ' i.mi. .ml v' -'-Vi'-; -.vi, . ,.- , . .; 4 . .;, v...:v :: , . , . t .:'. ."....:'..". . A GOWN OF FIX3WERED CHIFFON ti&M A WHITE CHIFFON PETTICOAT. EMBROIDERED BLUE CHIFFON. and daring, but some of the more audacious colorings when successfully handled turn out extraordinarily well and have a refine ment despite their unusualnesa or their striking tone. There are, for Instance, models In the vivid Toscape shades, the glowing orange hues which border on what were once called tangerine colorings. Theae colorings are not for every one, and the same Is true of the ripe yellow pinks or pink yellows which are ranked under the head of eglantine; but both these colors are In themselves very beautiful and there are exquisite models of these shadings which while brilliant are not loud nor violent. One Callot model sketched for the large cut was of chiffon In a wonderful ripe tone which probably came on the eglantine list. The chiffon was embroidered In self-color and softened by being made up over creamy white chiffon being held In loosely toward the bottom by a wide band of fine cream lat e. The eglantine tunic was draped quite high at the aides, leaving much of trie white underskirt In evidence. A collarletis gulmpe was of the cream lace and through the plain chiffon drapery of the bodice showed a wide band of em broidery worked In eglantine upon the cream foundation. This same model was brought over by another. Importer in a delicate nattier blue and we have setn it too in a light tune of cyclamen. These cyclamen shades with their bluish pinks, sometimes dashed with gray, are very much liked and the artists combine them successfully with certain bluee, but an unerring color sense la needed In order to Insure perfect harmony inauch a union. The second model of the large group was one of the genuine surceases in this line, a flowered cyclamen gauze over a soft laven der blue, the whole suggesting oertaln harmonious hydrangea coloringa Silver lare and little stiff rosette) of the blue were the only trimming. OVER A SILVER LACK PETTICOAT AND Going back once more to the matter of the beautiful vivid colorings mention should be made of the chiffon model In color and made over black satin, which figures in one of the small cuts. A refer ence was made to this model last week, but no sketch was given then and one can understand better from a sketch than from any deK;i IptW the absolute sim plicity of ll'ie in wliicb was nevertheless a notable gov11 because of Its chic coloring and lovely rofeterlal. This same model has been brought, over !n a Tuscane yellow and in a Prlntcraps screen, but with these colorings a one-tone scheme Is main tained, the black being eliminated and the chiffon being made up over self-color or over white entirely veiled. Women have not put aside black with the coming of spring days and springtime colorings and a rather surprising number of black street costumes are to be noted wherever fashionable folk congregate! Many of these costumes are in soft satiny black silk and chiffon, silk and etamlne, silk and cashmere or serge, or all - silk, and they usually take the form of trot ting frock and coat, the coat being entirely of the silk, while the frock Is largely of the other material trimmed with the silk. Often the frock skirt is of silk up to the point where it meets the coat. Some exceedingly good-looking tailored models are in a black raw silk, which probably bears the name of some kind of pongee, and oddly enough several of the smartest models of this type seen recently have been trimmed In a black silk of high luster or satin. Une model from Francis which was particularly trig and knowing, looking was of the black raw silk, with pipings of black satin and had a curious little Eton or bolero jacket arrangement With a collar of Japanese blue embroidery. Of the vogue of black and white we have BLACK PONGE14 BODICE, AND A FROCK OF EMBROIDERED . PINK CHIFFON OVER x BROWN CREPE AND LACE. spoken before and there are chic Utile trotting frocks of black and white printed foulard, chiffon, etc., trimmed In black silk and with coats of the black silk. Foul ard frocks, whose skirts are entirely of the silk, at Is the lower part of the bodice, may : have the upper part of the bodice and the sleeves of a different material, more sheer than the foulard. One good looking lltfle morning frock In brown and white foulard had the upper part of the bodice in a brown broche eta mlne over the white chiffon, and a clever Tavei Tiler model In foulard has an under bodice of chiffon and an over bodice of the silk which runs up In scarf fashion over the shoulders and Is tied like a Scarf in front of each shoulder. This new version of the jumper is shown in one of the small pictures. The Russian blouse of chiffon over a skirt or under robe of silk finds expression in many grades and In many materials, ranging from very cheap and common place models to others which, though on approximately the same lines, have pro nounced distinction. It all depends upon whether or not the Idea has filtered through an artist's brain. We were impressed by this fart the other day, when after seeing a host of cheap and unattractive Russian hlouxe frocks, during a tour of the shops, we wandered Into a work room and came upon a model just out of Its packing case. and being enthusiastically admired by a corps of appreciative work women. It too was a Russian model, upon simple lines, but a Russian model wtth a differ ence. The skirt was of king's blue satin in a rather deep shade. Over this was a long full-belted coat of chiffon matching the satin, but finely soutached all over in a shade of blue just a trifle lighter. Guhnpe. collar and long sleeves were of plain blue chiffon In the lighter shade. There was a narrow band of dull .gold galon on the collar and on each sleeve and the belt was of dull gold. The very slight contrast of the two tones, the beauty of the soutache embroidery and the perfection of line made thla a moat Individual and ad mirable model, though In point of general line it had much In common with a hust of undesirables. One sees lesn soutache embroidery . than last season, yet it appears effectively on many of the most successful models. Tavernler has a frock which has been copied frequently and with various modi fications. In ono version it la of white crepe, a simple bodice and skirt, the latter trimmed in a deep flounce of Valenciennes lace Inset with Venetian motifs. This flounce is weighted down by a wide border of "antique" printed cotton one might de scribe i It as a cretonne of quaint design and gay coloring which almost loses Its Identity by having Us design outlined by fine white soutache. The soutache not only outlines the de sign, but is massed In scroll design here and there over the surface. At first glance It Is almost Impossible to tell just how the effect Is produced. Ono Inclines to ward believing that gay Bulgarian Is min gled with soutache embroidery, but a closer scrutiny reveala the composition. Revers of the soutached cotton are on the bodice, which is largely of tho lace, and bands of the trimming finish tho short, wide peasant sleeves of crepe. Rank anions the first Parisian makers was predicted for Tavernler when she first loomed upon the fashionable horizon and her models were practically unknown here. he has unquestionably arrived, but till one sees comparatively few of her clever and original creations among the -JTOUt-aKD. Imported models. The importer of the crepe s-nd cretonne model was asked to explain thl state of affairs. He shrug-sod his shoulders. 'Hlie does not want us," he aald. Hrr ambition la a tremendously elite private trade and alio has won It. She told me frankly this spring that she would make me a frock or two for frlendnlilp's sak, but that alia did not care for shop fade." The Ilulgnrlaiv embroidery, of uhlcli the soutache embroidered cretonne offered a aiiKgeatlnii, la used effectively on frorlis of the soft, heavy home spun or hand woven linens which ere so extremely smsrt, a expensive and so hard to obtain. Theae linens come In severnl efforts, copy ing the weaves of the Kngllsh woolen stripe, chevron, basket and mixed weaves and aome of the French dressmaking houses have exclusive weaves in tliea lin ens, so that one can obtain material to duplicate their linen models only through them. Several attractive imported men's models of this class seen In one Shop had trim ming of very heavy open mesh linen lace, and about the neck, on the cuffs and In a mere touch on the belt wae heavy Pul irarlan embroidery In deep" design and bright colors. For instance, a soft, dull, rather light blue lhwn was embroidered In bright yellow, black, white and darker blue. An oyster white linen had embroid ery of bright red. bright blue, black and green. Apropos of things homespun It may be noted tha. there are some Imported tailor suits of wonlerful Scotch homespuns woven on hand looms, soft, loose stuff which will wear unendingly and Is of de lightful texture and coloring. The material cells as high as S and M a yard. Black and white woollens, particularly of the always populur check designs, bid fair to rival dark bluj serge aa a summer uniform. They are at their best when made up on severe tailored lines. Smarter from a Parisian viuwpoint are the suits of striped black and white, and these often have a touch of color In tho collar, say a collar of heavy red or dull blue linen embroidered In while and bor dered by a black satin fold. Blue and white stripes are being made up after the rOWNEN 1 Kid Fitting. SILK GloveS 1 , Fit like Fownes kid gloves because S AcctirAtelv made fev exoerts from the finest silk obtainable. All lengths, sizes and shades the new fashionable colors Paris Authorities: Azalie, Capucine, Cythere, v Kaki. Ambre. Lesbos. Fownes Silk Cloves are a revelation to those'who have thought it necessary to accept the ordinary kind. -A re velation in exquisne nt, texture ana uurauuuy rw.vi. no substitute. Look for the name in the wrist. , 50c, 75c, $1.00, $1.50. Double ttpsV cf course and Fownes Guarantee in every pair. It'a m Fownes tbat'a all yon About Style) No. 90S, If designed for the average figure. Has long skirt and moderately high bark Sloping to low bust line. Is made ol batiste with neat lace and embroidery trim. Has 12tt-inch Iront rlisp: 2 pairs et suspender wb garters. Sixes 18 to 30. Price, $2JM Health and Beauty Queries BY MRS. C. F. D. : 1'ou say you do not like to follow the new styles In hairdreualnu; because youf hair la streaked with dif ferent shades of color. These streaks are undoubtedly dua to sliampoooliiK with soap and water. I recommend cantiirox in preference to any othr aliunipoo. It makes a rich and plentiful lather that thoroughly cleanses the m'ulp, removes dandruff, relieves Itching and Irritation and leaves he hair soft, brig-lit and fluffy. This Inexpensive and quick-drying home atisinpoo Is prepared by dis solving; a traspoonful of canthrox In a teacupful of hot water. Pour on the head a little at a time, using It as you would any other shampoo. Olivette: If you are offllcted with pimples, are thin and sallow, and auffer continuously from a "tired out" feeling, you need a good system tonlo that will cleanse your blood, make jour liver more active and build you tip and strengthen you. Try this: Dissolve half a teacup ful of sugar and one ounce of kardene In half pint of alcohol and add enough boil ing water to make a full quart of tonic. Take a tablespoonf nl before each meal and at bed time. Von ran get the kitr dene and alcohol at any drug store. This old-fashioned home remedy restores lost appetite and aids dlgeatlon. Take it and you soon will be stronger and free from pimples and blotches. Alice: If the joking of your sweet heart embarrasses you, stop using fare powder. The next time you go to the drug store get four ounces of spurniax, dissolve It in half pint of hot water and add two leaepoonfuls of glycerine. This miluiii a fine complexion beautlfier that will rid you of that "shiny," greasy look and give your skla a clear, fresh and vouthrul appearance. It will not show or rub off like powder and lasts much longer. Appy it also to your neck and forearms, rubbing gently until dry. It is fine to use when wearing the short sleeves and low necks that again will be the fashion this summer. Rachel: "When your hair comes out so freely while combing it, you should take immediate steps to restore your acalp and hair to healthy condition. I'andruff and falling hair are caused by terms which can be destroyed by the use of a same fashion by the French tailors, anil the stylish striped grays In two or three tones nre lo well liked. "J Collars of black satin are. used upo-,4 majority of tho xeverrly tailored sti.A, with black moire s -mottmes taklnc the place of the satin, and other trlmniinrf of block satin Is often added, tins Rood tail ored rostii.ne of ilurk blue ecrae has black satin on collar, o.ff nd waistcoat, and the stialgiit, tlose skirt opens all the way up one side to show a plain underskirt of black satin. Very wide black silk htald Is used upon some of the good-looking dark blue seine trotting suits turned out by the fashionable IniUirs. A heavy, sort, corded silk of the Otto man variety la made up with a corbrau blue, both In one now and successful model, the silk forming a plain deep band on the button of the skirt, this b.vnd ascending above the knees. The short coat, crossing to fasten with a mnglo big botton bar at one aide and at the waist line, Is entirely of the Ottoman and la untiimmed, but has an enormounly wide collar whose points fall below tho waistline. The bodice Is chiefly of chiffon, with enough cloth to mark In aa belonging to tho costume, and all the materials are In ono tone, chiffon, silk and cloth. In black silk of satin finish and black tulle dotted In black In another chic stieet suit. The silk forms the botton ot the skirt and runs up to tho girdle on the skies. The re-st of the skirt and the bodice are of the tulle. The coat of taffeta crosses In surplice fashion and cuts away again below a girdle. The wide open V front shows the full bodice front of tulle and the gulmps of gold and white. Popalar Klctlon. "I'm So Glad to See You:" "O. What a Beautiful New Gown Tout Have!" "My Friends. It Gives Me Great Pleasure to Address This Magnificent Audience." "I Assure You It Will Not Be the Slight est Inconvenience." "Although You Have Defeated Me I Rin ceroly Congratulate You on Your Klection." "Why. You IHin't Ixok a Day Older Than You Did Twenty Years AgoV. "I Shall Be Delighted to Have You Call." "I Do So Enjoy Hearing You Sing!" "My Attention Has Been OaJled.'V-CM-cago Tribune. JTV including Ik decreed by f. wm s,A need to knew glore. IF you'll notice the various illustrations of Kabo Corset styles, you'll realize why Kabo Corsets are rec ognized as the leaders in bringing out the 'latest things. ' Correct in form, they are also the most com fortable .and durable corsets made. We give you the broadest sort of guarantee of satis faction and protect your dealer in carrying it out. Ask to see our Kabo Maternity Supporter; and ff you are stout you'll be interested in the Kabo Form Reducing Corset ; it reduces the figure to graceful lines without uncomfortable binding, j Kabo Corset Co. , Chicago u MAE MAKTYN good quinine hair tonlo mads as follows: Get from your druggist one ounce of qulnzoln, dissolve it in half pint of alco hol, and add half pint of cold water. Rub thla tonic into the acalp gently every night for the first week. Then use It twice a week, bruxhing the hair thor oughly each time. If anything will give you a new growth of hair, qulnioln will. The treatment ie invigorating and re freshing and it keeps the hair soft and glossy, so that it is easily managed and can be put up in any style you wish. Miss Nobody: Yes, you weigh about ten pounds more than a person of your height should. Try this to reduce your weight: Get from your druggist four ounces of parnotls and dissolve it In a pint of hot water. Take a teaspoonful of this harmless flash reducer before each meal. You will feel better when you are rid of that superfluous flesh. M.: You can help your "dead" and dull eyes, stop Inflammation and do away with redness If you use an eye tonic made by dissolving one ounce of crystos In a pint of water. Irop one or two drops in ach eye whenever they are tired or feel weak. It will not smart or burn. Its regular use will make your eyes bright and sparkling. Crystos is also recuiii iiitMidrd for granulated eyelids. It can be purchased at any first-class drug store. Anxious: My dear girl, you exagger ate the unslghtllnea of the blai klieads you may you are afflicted with. They will disappear if you ue faithfully a cream Jelly made as follows: (let from your dniKglat one ounce of slmoxoln. put It In half pint of cold water and add two tea spoonful of glycerine. After atlrrlng brtskly. allow to stand one or two hours. Massage your face with this almosoln creiam ana It will thoroughly cleanse the pores. Iust and grime that soap and water never touch will roll out ana orr the skin. This treatment tends to make large porea small and prevents the re turn of blackheads. It clears the skin and keeps it smooth, soft and pliable. You can use almosoln as a face and mas cage cream just as freely as you wish, for it contains no oils r fats that will cause a growth of sup'V'uous bir. Read Mrs. Marlyu's f Hook, "beamy,"' 15.00. Adv.