4
TIIE CfttAITA' SUNDAY BEE: 'APHID 17, 1910.
1 1
I VERY CniC SPRING COWSS
flEateriali for Them Ae Pretty, Color
1 Scheme Daring:.
1SEW VOGUE OF SI
tS IN PAEI3
Poetical aide of Drrw lbimiri la
te Xames of the fteannn'a Mi.
teHals related neatas
Especially Beaetlfel.
KEW TORK, April W. The names of the
new dress materials, like the names of the
new colors, are full of suggestion, even of
poetry, and it seems rather a pltty that
none save the manufacturer and an ocra
atonal buyer or dressmaker ever uses them.
The ordinary salesman or customer lumps
a eland of goods under one general head
and makes one name aprrad Its charitable
mantle over a wide area, but reading a Hat
of names of Imported materials fills one's
mind with vague dreams and visions.
When a salenman talks of "flowered
gauze," one can listen to him without a
thrill, even though he bring forth the
mnet enchanting of flowered atuffs to Illus
trate his theme, but when one read In a
rdescrlptlon of a Callot frock that It was
made of "gauie rotllc-fleurs" straightway
the poet In one awakes. Gauze of a thou
sand flowera! That's quite a different thing
from Cowered gauze.
Then there la "fleur do printrmps im
yrlme." The uninitiated might call lhat
Selectable material "printed Kauze." As a
FOUTjARD and chiffon.
matter of fact It Is a gauze printed In
small conventional designs, ibut It Is a pe
culiar kind of gauze, ,a very lovely kind
Of gai'tii "JTleiir fte printemps (flower of
springtime), in name none too good for
Ian t a moire Elhloplennn a more attrac
tive thing than a moire poplin? Doesn't
a Ninon Bekln, conjure up a more piquant
vision than a blue and hKa altk voile?
Yes. it's really a pity, tUat he, new sea
son's materials cannot tell their real names.
It would lend a zest to Bhopplnyr. gives a
lyric touch to the buying tif. frock, rha
terlal. Last week we saw a wonderful collection
of samples, a collection to promote envy
and despair In any feminine ur.uv; for to
obtain goods like any one of a uujorliy of
the samples was quite out of tho .juration.
These pieces) of material, arranged neatly
in large books had been made up from the
exclusive materials of the greatest Parisian
dressmaking houses. A New York im
porter, a man who knew lntlmat'.My the
: older generation of dress artists and has
watched the present star r84 above the
horizon, had the books made up for his
own delectation ' and Information aa a
source of color inspiration, an' authoritative
verdict as to things ultra niodiith. a guide
to be followed more or less closely, accord
ing to the possibilities. I
bam of the materials the jnan had im
ported along with models for which similar
material had been used, but' most of the
sarrplea were unknown land and one looked
them over with a sigh that was a tribute
to ,the designers and manufacturers.
Such lovely thlnga of all - weights, all
classes! Page after page of gauze and J
chiffon and etamlne. Scores of silks all
varying in weight and weave, but likely
by the undlscrlmlnatlng to be classed as
foulards. The various phases of these
upple, shimmering, printed silks were Im
mensely attractive and some of them were
a far cry from the ordinarily accepted
foulard. . ,
There were beautiful printed twills, too,
which American salesmen would also In
clude among the foulards. Printed
silk diagonals, printed crepe, printed
crepon and printed cre antique
ta crepe with very crimpy surface.) all
are fashionable, all are beautiful. That
word "implmee', (printed) appeara after
a very large percentage ot tne names.
Never has there been sucli a season of
lovely printed designs in all materials,' but
there are plenty of b roe he and ramage de
signs, too, plain stuffs galore, embroidered
designs and chameleon effects without
number.
Mention has been made earlier In the sea
son of tho possibilities for striped materials
and the vogue of the stripe seems to he
lowly, but surely growing in Paris, though
it has at yet found but a ellKht echo here.
An exquisite Paquln frock In gray and white
striped gauze with relieving touches of
bleu lavande Is one of the lateot and most
attractive importations In one well known
' house, and In another shop Is a charming
model of wide striped periwinkle blue and
white, with creamy lace and notes of black
In the trimming.
, Color combinations are often unusual
JdVOTTN AND WHITE FOULARD.
tP m-tmmi i n. m mini in mi ! wn mi minim, i n.n mi Wwmw bii iimiibiilii'iii iiii.iii i. ii i.i L...j nniiM 1 1 xmM .1 m. , I....LJ.- .ju ' 'i - ium"""" ! I ' i.mi. .ml
v' -'-Vi'-; -.vi, . ,.- , . .; 4
. .;, v...:v :: , . , . t .:'. ."....:'..". .
A GOWN OF FIX3WERED CHIFFON
ti&M A WHITE CHIFFON PETTICOAT.
EMBROIDERED BLUE CHIFFON.
and daring, but some of the more audacious
colorings when successfully handled turn
out extraordinarily well and have a refine
ment despite their unusualnesa or their
striking tone. There are, for Instance,
models In the vivid Toscape shades, the
glowing orange hues which border on what
were once called tangerine colorings. Theae
colorings are not for every one, and the
same Is true of the ripe yellow pinks or
pink yellows which are ranked under the
head of eglantine; but both these colors
are In themselves very beautiful and there
are exquisite models of these shadings
which while brilliant are not loud nor
violent.
One Callot model sketched for the large
cut was of chiffon In a wonderful ripe tone
which probably came on the eglantine list.
The chiffon was embroidered In self-color
and softened by being made up over creamy
white chiffon being held In loosely toward
the bottom by a wide band of fine cream
lat e. The eglantine tunic was draped quite
high at the aides, leaving much of trie white
underskirt In evidence.
A collarletis gulmpe was of the cream lace
and through the plain chiffon drapery of
the bodice showed a wide band of em
broidery worked In eglantine upon the
cream foundation. This same model was
brought over by another. Importer in a
delicate nattier blue and we have setn it
too in a light tune of cyclamen.
These cyclamen shades with their bluish
pinks, sometimes dashed with gray, are
very much liked and the artists combine
them successfully with certain bluee, but
an unerring color sense la needed In order
to Insure perfect harmony inauch a union.
The second model of the large group was
one of the genuine surceases in this line, a
flowered cyclamen gauze over a soft laven
der blue, the whole suggesting oertaln
harmonious hydrangea coloringa Silver
lare and little stiff rosette) of the blue
were the only trimming.
OVER A SILVER LACK PETTICOAT AND
Going back once more to the matter of
the beautiful vivid colorings mention
should be made of the chiffon model In
color and made over black satin, which
figures in one of the small cuts. A refer
ence was made to this model last week,
but no sketch was given then and one
can understand better from a sketch than
from any deK;i IptW the absolute sim
plicity of ll'ie in wliicb was nevertheless
a notable gov11 because of Its chic coloring
and lovely rofeterlal. This same model has
been brought, over !n a Tuscane yellow
and in a Prlntcraps screen, but with these
colorings a one-tone scheme Is main
tained, the black being eliminated and the
chiffon being made up over self-color or
over white entirely veiled.
Women have not put aside black with
the coming of spring days and springtime
colorings and a rather surprising number
of black street costumes are to be noted
wherever fashionable folk congregate!
Many of these costumes are in soft satiny
black silk and chiffon, silk and etamlne,
silk and cashmere or serge, or all - silk,
and they usually take the form of trot
ting frock and coat, the coat being entirely
of the silk, while the frock Is largely of
the other material trimmed with the silk.
Often the frock skirt is of silk up to the
point where it meets the coat.
Some exceedingly good-looking tailored
models are in a black raw silk, which
probably bears the name of some kind of
pongee, and oddly enough several of the
smartest models of this type seen recently
have been trimmed In a black silk of high
luster or satin. Une model from Francis
which was particularly trig and knowing,
looking was of the black raw silk, with
pipings of black satin and had a curious
little Eton or bolero jacket arrangement
With a collar of Japanese blue embroidery.
Of the vogue of black and white we have
BLACK PONGE14
BODICE, AND A FROCK OF EMBROIDERED . PINK CHIFFON OVER
x
BROWN CREPE AND LACE.
spoken before and there are chic Utile
trotting frocks of black and white printed
foulard, chiffon, etc., trimmed In black
silk and with coats of the black silk. Foul
ard frocks, whose skirts are entirely of the
silk, at Is the lower part of the bodice, may :
have the upper part of the bodice and the
sleeves of a different material, more sheer
than the foulard.
One good looking lltfle morning frock In
brown and white foulard had the upper
part of the bodice in a brown broche eta
mlne over the white chiffon, and a clever
Tavei Tiler model In foulard has an under
bodice of chiffon and an over bodice of the
silk which runs up In scarf fashion over
the shoulders and Is tied like a Scarf in
front of each shoulder. This new version
of the jumper is shown in one of the small
pictures.
The Russian blouse of chiffon over a
skirt or under robe of silk finds expression
in many grades and In many materials,
ranging from very cheap and common
place models to others which, though on
approximately the same lines, have pro
nounced distinction. It all depends upon
whether or not the Idea has filtered through
an artist's brain. We were impressed by this
fart the other day, when after seeing a
host of cheap and unattractive Russian
hlouxe frocks, during a tour of the shops,
we wandered Into a work room and came
upon a model just out of Its packing case.
and being enthusiastically admired by a
corps of appreciative work women.
It too was a Russian model, upon simple
lines, but a Russian model wtth a differ
ence. The skirt was of king's blue satin in
a rather deep shade. Over this was a long
full-belted coat of chiffon matching the
satin, but finely soutached all over in a
shade of blue just a trifle lighter.
Guhnpe. collar and long sleeves were of
plain blue chiffon In the lighter shade.
There was a narrow band of dull .gold
galon on the collar and on each sleeve and
the belt was of dull gold. The very slight
contrast of the two tones, the beauty of
the soutache embroidery and the perfection
of line made thla a moat Individual and ad
mirable model, though In point of general
line it had much In common with a hust
of undesirables.
One sees lesn soutache embroidery . than
last season, yet it appears effectively on
many of the most successful models.
Tavernler has a frock which has been
copied frequently and with various modi
fications. In ono version it la of white
crepe, a simple bodice and skirt, the latter
trimmed in a deep flounce of Valenciennes
lace Inset with Venetian motifs. This
flounce is weighted down by a wide border
of "antique" printed cotton one might de
scribe i It as a cretonne of quaint design
and gay coloring which almost loses Its
Identity by having Us design outlined by
fine white soutache.
The soutache not only outlines the de
sign, but is massed In scroll design here
and there over the surface. At first glance
It Is almost Impossible to tell just how
the effect Is produced. Ono Inclines to
ward believing that gay Bulgarian Is min
gled with soutache embroidery, but a
closer scrutiny reveala the composition.
Revers of the soutached cotton are on the
bodice, which is largely of tho lace, and
bands of the trimming finish tho short,
wide peasant sleeves of crepe.
Rank anions the first Parisian makers
was predicted for Tavernler when she
first loomed upon the fashionable horizon
and her models were practically unknown
here. he has unquestionably arrived, but
till one sees comparatively few of her
clever and original creations among the
-JTOUt-aKD.
Imported models. The importer of the
crepe s-nd cretonne model was asked to
explain thl state of affairs. He shrug-sod
his shoulders.
'Hlie does not want us," he aald. Hrr
ambition la a tremendously elite private
trade and alio has won It. She told me
frankly this spring that she would make
me a frock or two for frlendnlilp's sak,
but that alia did not care for shop fade."
The Ilulgnrlaiv embroidery, of uhlcli the
soutache embroidered cretonne offered a
aiiKgeatlnii, la used effectively on frorlis
of the soft, heavy home spun or hand
woven linens which ere so extremely
smsrt, a expensive and so hard to obtain.
Theae linens come In severnl efforts, copy
ing the weaves of the Kngllsh woolen
stripe, chevron, basket and mixed weaves
and aome of the French dressmaking
houses have exclusive weaves in tliea lin
ens, so that one can obtain material to
duplicate their linen models only through
them.
Several attractive imported men's models
of this class seen In one Shop had trim
ming of very heavy open mesh linen lace,
and about the neck, on the cuffs and In a
mere touch on the belt wae heavy Pul
irarlan embroidery In deep" design and
bright colors. For instance, a soft, dull,
rather light blue lhwn was embroidered
In bright yellow, black, white and darker
blue. An oyster white linen had embroid
ery of bright red. bright blue, black and
green.
Apropos of things homespun It may be
noted tha. there are some Imported tailor
suits of wonlerful Scotch homespuns
woven on hand looms, soft, loose stuff
which will wear unendingly and Is of de
lightful texture and coloring. The material
cells as high as S and M a yard.
Black and white woollens, particularly
of the always populur check designs, bid
fair to rival dark bluj serge aa a summer
uniform. They are at their best when
made up on severe tailored lines.
Smarter from a Parisian viuwpoint are
the suits of striped black and white, and
these often have a touch of color In tho
collar, say a collar of heavy red or dull
blue linen embroidered In while and bor
dered by a black satin fold. Blue and
white stripes are being made up after the
rOWNEN
1 Kid Fitting.
SILK
GloveS
1 , Fit like Fownes kid gloves because S
AcctirAtelv made fev exoerts from
the finest silk obtainable.
All lengths, sizes and shades
the new fashionable colors
Paris Authorities:
Azalie, Capucine, Cythere,
v Kaki. Ambre. Lesbos.
Fownes Silk Cloves are a revelation to those'who have
thought it necessary to accept the ordinary kind. -A re
velation in exquisne nt, texture ana uurauuuy rw.vi.
no substitute. Look for the name in the wrist. ,
50c, 75c, $1.00, $1.50.
Double ttpsV cf course and Fownes
Guarantee in every pair.
It'a m Fownes
tbat'a all yon
About
Style) No. 90S, If designed for the average
figure. Has long skirt and moderately high bark
Sloping to low bust line. Is made ol batiste with
neat lace and embroidery trim. Has 12tt-inch
Iront rlisp: 2 pairs et suspender wb garters.
Sixes 18 to 30. Price, $2JM
Health and Beauty Queries
BY MRS.
C. F. D. : 1'ou say you do not like to
follow the new styles In hairdreualnu;
because youf hair la streaked with dif
ferent shades of color. These streaks are
undoubtedly dua to sliampoooliiK with
soap and water. I recommend cantiirox
in preference to any othr aliunipoo. It
makes a rich and plentiful lather that
thoroughly cleanses the m'ulp, removes
dandruff, relieves Itching and Irritation
and leaves he hair soft, brig-lit and
fluffy. This Inexpensive and quick-drying
home atisinpoo Is prepared by dis
solving; a traspoonful of canthrox In a
teacupful of hot water. Pour on the head
a little at a time, using It as you would
any other shampoo.
Olivette: If you are offllcted with
pimples, are thin and sallow, and auffer
continuously from a "tired out" feeling,
you need a good system tonlo that will
cleanse your blood, make jour liver more
active and build you tip and strengthen
you. Try this: Dissolve half a teacup
ful of sugar and one ounce of kardene In
half pint of alcohol and add enough boil
ing water to make a full quart of tonic.
Take a tablespoonf nl before each meal
and at bed time. Von ran get the kitr
dene and alcohol at any drug store. This
old-fashioned home remedy restores lost
appetite and aids dlgeatlon. Take it and
you soon will be stronger and free from
pimples and blotches.
Alice: If the joking of your sweet
heart embarrasses you, stop using fare
powder. The next time you go to the
drug store get four ounces of spurniax,
dissolve It in half pint of hot water and
add two leaepoonfuls of glycerine. This
miluiii a fine complexion beautlfier that
will rid you of that "shiny," greasy look
and give your skla a clear, fresh and
vouthrul appearance. It will not show or
rub off like powder and lasts much
longer. Appy it also to your neck and
forearms, rubbing gently until dry. It is
fine to use when wearing the short
sleeves and low necks that again will be
the fashion this summer.
Rachel: "When your hair comes out so
freely while combing it, you should take
immediate steps to restore your acalp
and hair to healthy condition. I'andruff
and falling hair are caused by terms
which can be destroyed by the use of a
same fashion by the French tailors, anil
the stylish striped grays In two or three
tones nre lo well liked. "J
Collars of black satin are. used upo-,4
majority of tho xeverrly tailored sti.A,
with black moire s -mottmes taklnc the
place of the satin, and other trlmniinrf of
block satin Is often added, tins Rood tail
ored rostii.ne of ilurk blue ecrae has black
satin on collar, o.ff nd waistcoat, and
the stialgiit, tlose skirt opens all the way
up one side to show a plain underskirt of
black satin. Very wide black silk htald
Is used upon some of the good-looking
dark blue seine trotting suits turned out
by the fashionable IniUirs.
A heavy, sort, corded silk of the Otto
man variety la made up with a corbrau
blue, both In one now and successful model,
the silk forming a plain deep band on the
button of the skirt, this b.vnd ascending
above the knees. The short coat, crossing to
fasten with a mnglo big botton bar at one
aide and at the waist line, Is entirely of the
Ottoman and la untiimmed, but has an
enormounly wide collar whose points fall
below tho waistline. The bodice Is chiefly
of chiffon, with enough cloth to mark
In aa belonging to tho costume, and all
the materials are In ono tone, chiffon,
silk and cloth.
In black silk of satin finish and black
tulle dotted In black In another chic stieet
suit. The silk forms the botton ot the
skirt and runs up to tho girdle on the skies.
The re-st of the skirt and the bodice are
of the tulle. The coat of taffeta crosses In
surplice fashion and cuts away again below
a girdle. The wide open V front shows
the full bodice front of tulle and the gulmps
of gold and white.
Popalar Klctlon.
"I'm So Glad to See You:"
"O. What a Beautiful New Gown Tout
Have!"
"My Friends. It Gives Me Great Pleasure
to Address This Magnificent Audience."
"I Assure You It Will Not Be the Slight
est Inconvenience."
"Although You Have Defeated Me I Rin
ceroly Congratulate You on Your Klection."
"Why. You IHin't Ixok a Day Older Than
You Did Twenty Years AgoV.
"I Shall Be Delighted to Have You Call."
"I Do So Enjoy Hearing You Sing!"
"My Attention Has Been OaJled.'V-CM-cago
Tribune.
JTV
including
Ik
decreed by f. wm
s,A
need to knew
glore.
IF you'll notice the
various illustrations
of Kabo Corset
styles, you'll realize why
Kabo Corsets are rec
ognized as the leaders
in bringing out the
'latest things. '
Correct in form, they
are also the most com
fortable .and durable
corsets made.
We give you the broadest
sort of guarantee of satis
faction and protect your
dealer in carrying it out.
Ask to see our Kabo
Maternity Supporter; and
ff you are stout you'll be
interested in the Kabo
Form Reducing Corset ;
it reduces the figure to
graceful lines without
uncomfortable binding, j
Kabo Corset Co. ,
Chicago u
MAE MAKTYN
good quinine hair tonlo mads as follows:
Get from your druggist one ounce of
qulnzoln, dissolve it in half pint of alco
hol, and add half pint of cold water. Rub
thla tonic into the acalp gently every
night for the first week. Then use It
twice a week, bruxhing the hair thor
oughly each time. If anything will give
you a new growth of hair, qulnioln will.
The treatment ie invigorating and re
freshing and it keeps the hair soft and
glossy, so that it is easily managed and
can be put up in any style you wish.
Miss Nobody: Yes, you weigh about
ten pounds more than a person of your
height should. Try this to reduce your
weight: Get from your druggist four
ounces of parnotls and dissolve it In a
pint of hot water. Take a teaspoonful
of this harmless flash reducer before
each meal. You will feel better when
you are rid of that superfluous flesh.
M.: You can help your "dead" and
dull eyes, stop Inflammation and do away
with redness If you use an eye tonic made
by dissolving one ounce of crystos In a
pint of water. Irop one or two drops in
ach eye whenever they are tired or feel
weak. It will not smart or burn. Its
regular use will make your eyes bright
and sparkling. Crystos is also recuiii
iiitMidrd for granulated eyelids. It can be
purchased at any first-class drug store.
Anxious: My dear girl, you exagger
ate the unslghtllnea of the blai klieads
you may you are afflicted with. They will
disappear if you ue faithfully a cream
Jelly made as follows: (let from your
dniKglat one ounce of slmoxoln. put It In
half pint of cold water and add two tea
spoonful of glycerine. After atlrrlng
brtskly. allow to stand one or two hours.
Massage your face with this almosoln
creiam ana It will thoroughly cleanse the
pores. Iust and grime that soap and
water never touch will roll out ana orr
the skin. This treatment tends to make
large porea small and prevents the re
turn of blackheads. It clears the skin
and keeps it smooth, soft and pliable.
You can use almosoln as a face and mas
cage cream just as freely as you wish,
for it contains no oils r fats that will
cause a growth of sup'V'uous bir.
Read Mrs. Marlyu's f Hook, "beamy,"'
15.00. Adv.
