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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (May 12, 1907)
THE OMATTA SUNDAY BEE: MAY 12. 1907. Historic Fashion Plates That Illustrate Aanners as Well as Dress The grent portrait painter, who were these quaint fashion plate were railed lit- the rsHiof'fire aivea rjca the on CTif "Vrnv ir 11 i r - IN I",' wlU you usually .rent fashion artt,l nutate this t,e or babies, o. or mop- the . Napoleon." w. ovVVndt .Tn"m " TsZ" tZ "J""::: u,,,)nmur,, prrwuy. i ney reooroea me smoji- pots instead or dolls until the middle of the laid Mrs. Bury Palllser, "English women, was In 1733. f tv ..h . . T than one If you have an Intimate est detail of the costume of their day and eighteenth century. deprived of French aid for a whole renera n.l l f..M , . , . k , t ,fr,om French plate8, whlrn were acquaintance with fashion Diat. of its company manners. Henri IV of Fr. write, to m.h. a 7i Z L T... L J?I .Ll . .!""'" "hlon p,a,e came lnto beln ""-htful little work, of art, beautifully rsrt ami ' .m. 1 " " ." .wll I1"":" " .. ' '"" woman s magazine. As was natu- drawn and colored. . , iu cllJr pur,,,. pHjmers were uuini ... uw. . ui..mu ic.n inn iu answer ior. ral these fashion plates came earlier and Bo said an authority, ana to point the to disregard the body. Anatomy was you desire patterns of our fashlcns In Mrs. Earle finds many allusions In old were better In France than In England warning she showed some recent reproduo- anathema, and they drew attenuated, pnnr drees. I send you, therefore, some model letters to fashion dolls and gives a chap- In the latter country, though there had ' Ul prims or eany weir York. creatures witn woe-Degone races, while su oi me opeciaior. xor janu- ter to them In her book on American cos- been an effort made as early us 1KX, pnm iaoeieo. sucn and such xneir skiii was expenaea on tne most y aevoiea a a aescripuon or a tume, ror. or course, they were of the woman's magazine was not launched .imti buoui k, sne saia. "The 'about' minute representations or tne costume or juiea wooaen Daoy wnicn - came regularly nrsi importance to ladles on this side of the a successful career until 1770. Is the only saving grace In this dating, the perold. Every little fancy In head- over once a month habited after the man- water. The poor souls seem to have got These quaint periodicals contained some which la about forty years out of the way, dress or embroidery, every iold of drapery, wr of the most eminent toasts In Paris." them second hand by way of London and general news, tales which, according to a any student of fashion plates would was painstakingly recorded, and the women This mademoiselle waa complete In every then to have sent copies of them to still the fashion of the day, were impartially know. The people walking on the street, were all posed in what must have been particular of her costume even to the way more benighted belnga in remote Inland composed of sentiment and vulgarity, the men In full bottomed trousers, the the fashionable attitude of the time, a sort th garters were tied and also as to the districts. soma tedious essays, much mawkish poetry! woman and the little girl in leg-o'-mutton of reversed Grecian bend so peculiar that coiffure, the complexion and the very new- It Is to fancied that the little dolls some acrostics and cookery recipes. Tho sleeves and other unmistakable signs, mark its like has never been seen. "t pluce to put a patch. The coming of were somewhat rare also, for Mrs. Hannah tnhelMhmnt mr.iti f . ' tne period as somewhere near 1S30. It would have been Impossible for Hoi- tma aer moppet had been somewhat de- Teatt, a mantua maker at the head of Bum- woodcuts and copperplate engravings, with frivolities of French dress more acceptable Hah a willowy, billowy thing; the American "The mistake In dating another print bien or one of his school ti be other than ""I"4 at thu "me owing to the war with mer street, Boston, advertise "a baby patterns for needlework. to the modest good sense of Englishwomen, shades of the departed Oodey, what stylel 1800 should be plain to anyone, as it Is absolutely truthful, but the homely dignity Fnce, though no matter how tightly drest after the newest fashion latlly ar- It was some years even then before there It was the same with our own Godey of Here Is to be found a slight degree of ex pretty well known that women at that and nower of the faces In Holblen's nlrturea closed English ports might be during war rived from Ix-ondon. Any ladles that desire were adderi in h .itrXxr.. blessed memnrv. After nnvnrino- at lm. mr.tlnn nrnhahiv K. .ni,t.i time had waists so short as to come Just decidedly overshadow the costume. These t'me" thre wa" 8jwa'" loophole left for to see It may either come or send, she will tlons of London and Paris modes, accom- mense pains and expense, as he was careful by the national self-confidence' and nervoug Indeed, there are few modern fashion plates whloh can approach In excellence the French plates of the first quarter of the nineteenth century. But would the Anglo-Saxon adopt anything from Paris without a fling? Not If he could help It, and here In a woman's magaxtne of this period we have plates side by side, one showing the Paris fashion, the other the fashion In London. The London design Is fondly supposed to be a modlllcatlon, a toning down, of the plates, he had them redrawn and carefully modified or Americanised, as he put It, which means that the waists were enlarged, the low bodices made higher and the gen eral air made more demure. There Is still a curious display of na tional sentiment to be noted In fashion plates. Though the latest modes from France may be followed In England, Ger many and the United States, there Is aa much difference In the general air of their respective fashion women as there Is In the racial characteristics of their women. The French fashion dame Is always suave and graceful, though much corsetted, the German rather square and stiff, the Eng- the fashion dolls to creep in. Deiow tne armpits, while the woman walk- great women and men with gravely folded ing by a famous old New York buldlng In hands appear as though they had sat to the picture haa the long, slim, trimly belted the painter In their everyday clothes, waist, which waa not In vogue until at The portraits of the next hundred years, least twenty-five years later. The dating during which the queen of three thousand of the third print Is a curious attempt to dresses ran her race, seem to be nothing turn time backward In Its flight. more than highly wrought fashion plates, "The picture purports to show how a so deeply burled was the Individual In the well known business street looked In 1862 monstrosities and excessive ornamentation when It was the center of the shopping of costume. Van Dike, whose sitters al- dlMtrlrt. At ttlla llnta wnman mTrA ..... htm In -1 n n-o ,bh th. pendous hoops, but the women In the print happy recorder of costumes at once stately bM run through shuts oft the supply. are gowned like those of the other two. In and picturesque. 8 the demure fashions of 18S0 or a little He tells us that thera were restrictions A Dreary Ltfe. earlier, while the men wear the very long In the use of jewels In his time for the j cannot describe the dreariness of com- wallowtall coat of that period. long taper fingers with which he dejlghted mon eV0ryday life In these Saharan oases. U1 course, tnis is or no real moment to endow nis sitters are guiltless 01 rings. About the only green thing one sees In be ready to wait on 'em. If they com to panted by colored plates. Paris was of to assure us, some beautiful French fashion energy of pose and action. Life and Nature of Sahara the saint and tbe mosque containing it Is were making plows and farther on saddles, raid to be the oldest Mohammedan build- In the street of the tailors I saw several Ing In Africa. The town is tho religious men using American sewing machines, but Inside a garden there may be patches of except as an exposure of some one's Igno- From this time on It waa often the fashion the treets lB the paIm leaves overhead rancB, dui ii you were collecting Historical to oispens wun lormai cosiume. prints you would And that the study of The Lely school painted the languid beau fashion plates and a general knowledge of ties of tha restoration In a more or leaa costume was well worth having to make Indiscreet undress but bow fashionable waa sure that your treasures were dated cor- Its Indiscretion! Only to be matched by the rectly. Then, too, there Is a bit of ma- extreme modlahness of the wearer lan liclous fund to be gnt from your acquaint- gulshlng mien and elaborately careless colf ance with fashion plates. fure. "Family albums still exist and you have The eighteenth century wa the golden only to study the bygone photographs of age of portrait painting. It was at the the person who hates like poison to have same time the age of masquerade and, her age known In order to arrive at the above all, the age of sentiment, fatal number within two or three years." Ladles were painted In formal costume. These are generally unsuspected uses for the height of the mode, and still were pro of the desert It is a date forest Inter spersed with all sorts of tropical and temperate fruit trees and shrubs. There (Continued from Para Three nioin v.. a . . iu ilnn nunu im mm, u wre. i-apuaj or mis pari or me woriu, so noiy nownere aid l see any American goods, (Continued from Fags Three.) pl"'0n. no had ear-rir " lg " fully trimmed as those In the botanical that the people make pilgrimages to it as On the sides of the streets were mud man stands at the hole whore It flows out att" dinner "ffe cup waueer. and aa she gardens of Algiers, or In that of Bulten- they do to Kalrouan. In Tunisia, and to ledges built out from the mud walls. These with an hour glass, and when the sand ,urne1 "round I noticed that she wore lorg, Java. About twenty Arab gardeners Mecca and Medina, In Arabia. ledges were filled with white-gowned m a are always ouy Keeping the plantation In I rode across the desert this afternoon chatting or sleeping. Some were reell cup is high. Indeed, they looked like tin order and the leaves are not allowed to He and vlBlted It, The way Is over a country cotton and some sowing. At night t cup without bottoms or handles. Even on tha paths or walks. Here and there covered with a scanty vegetation of thorny ledges are filled with sleepers. u" cuimren were loaaea wun jeweiry. tnrough the garden are houses of Arab scrub, through sandy and stony wastes, Some of them were not averse $o being architecture, the home of the owner, and and by the case of Ftllach and Chetma. photographed, although both women and in one place there is a great circle cut Bid! Okba, Itself has 88.000 palm trees and children held out their hands for money out under the tree where dance may be the town ha several thousand people. Tha as soon as their pictures were taken. '. As I walked through the town I passed held in the open. vegetable and grass with tree bearing stveral Moorish coffee houses In which various kinds of fruit; but In the villages were Arabs sitting on the floor, smoking themselves everything is as bare as the and chatting, drinking coffee or playing sldt Okba nail His Oasis. Have you ever heard of Sidl OkbaT He was a famous Arab general who middle of the road, and that In a land dominoes. The coffee houses look not un- "Conquered the whole of north Africa from which might be a tropical paradise. The like an American stable. Their only light the N"6 t0 tha At,antic about LSOO-odd houses have no gardens in or about them, comes In through the door and the peo- "' wnom ne conquera ne con- .... - liif inlllnn . . . n Jl. 1 M They are joined close together, and are pie sit on the mud floor. more like a catacombs than a place where people live, move and have their being. Chateau Lnndon. There are few sign of life during much In "The Garden of Allah,'" the novel to of the day. There are no windows facing which I referred at the beginning of this the streets, and the only means of ventlla- letter, some vivid descriptions are made of the fashion elate. It has still ohr mrit. ditoiilv fsahlonabl when thav chose to tlon on that side of the house are little tne Chateau Lanaon. a wonaenui aaie In Its own peculiar province which are not be painted In classical draperlea, In peasant holes about the slxe of a paving brick up plantation belonging to a wealthy French usually appreciated In an ungrateful world, dreas or In jcharming print monilnai gowns It has other functions besides Its obvious and in the act of feeding the chicken. But one of teaching the newest fashion In dress. It must be remembered that portrait paint Permeating this Is the more subtle, but ers were merely faithful copyist of fash not less Important, lesson on the latent Ion that were already current and had fashion In airs and graces. first been spread broadcast by some other The good fashion plate Invariably gives agency, just the correct air, neither more nor less. Just what form the first fashion plate The poise of the figure, the turn of the head, the manner of sitting or walking, of holding up the gown, of disposing the hands are so important In creating a fashionable appearance that one Is tempted to think that style radiate from the mien rather than tho costume. took Is not recorded, but we do know that as early as the fourteenth century France sent puppets dressed In the newest mode) to other countries and it Is likely that this effective mean of disseminating the fash ion wa of very ancient origin, perhaps a old a dolls themselves. In England near the roof. nobleman. If one would know Just how In village like these the people look much water means In the desert he' may squalid and dirty, but the dirtiest of them learn by visiting this place. It contains are loaded with Jewelry. I photographed about fifteen acres and is a wonderful one middle aged dame of a swarthy com- botanical garden right here on the edge New Mexico's New Governor verted by telling them that they must die if they did not espouse the Mohammedan re ligion; and It Is said that when he reached the western ocean he rode Into It exclaim ing that If it were not for this barrier he would make every people of the lands be yond worship Allah or die. This man was one of the great Moham medan heroes. The people look upon him as a saint and they have named towns, oases and other places after him. One of the most Important of these Is Sidl Okba, which lies twelve miles from here In the heart of the desert. In H Is the shrine of plantation are surrounded by mud walls like those of Biskra, but the house are better and tome of the streets are so wide that one can drive through them. On our way there we passed some caravans of camels and donkeys. We saw many tent villages and great flocks of black goats watched by shepherds. Business of an Oasis. Entering the gate we rode between the mud walls to the public square, which is surrounded by petty stores or bazars. Every store Is a box-like room no wider than the door which leads into it and so low that the merchants tan hardly stand upright within It The stores are lighted from the front and the customers stand In the street as they bargain. There was considerable industry going on. Here men were weaving, here they Many of these poorer Arab have n home. They eat at the cafes and sleep la the streets. This Is especially so In . tha cities. The men alwaya sleep with their. heads covered and. In fact, with every bit of bare skin hidden. One reason for this Is on account of the flies. They fairly swarm In all the bases, making one pray for the Caliph Adnlmellc, the father of flies, to breathe upon them and drive them away. This old caliph had a breath so ; fatal to flies that every one dropped dead i that flew over his mouth. During my stay I visited the famous mosque. It is an ordinary building with perhaps half a dozen rooms. Including ths place of worship. It was filled with Mo hammedans when I entered It this after noon and I heard the Mohammedan youths singing out verses from the Koran In the school rooms on each side. I spent a while watching the men at their prayers and although I was known to be a Christian I wa not molested. FRANK Q. CARPENTER. The Your Singer in T Sewing tmvtr W fit 'f---.' (j iTiw,mnM.nfci.iiiuM,iiTiiMi" Room un 'a- . ..jr. (null 1 1 1 in M 'i i;lH''r..lM'l-','!i'. l TJk-W makes that corner of your home a place to take price in. And comfort, too. Not only is the Singer the lightest-running, most noiseless and efficient of sewing machines, but you know its always going to stay so. No disablement because of missing f arts, this year or twenty years rom now there's a Singer store within your easy reach, and you know quite well there always will be I Wheeler & Wilon Sewing Machines, for over fifty years the standard of the rotary-shuttle movement for making the lock stitch, are now sold exclusively at Singer stores. When you buy a sewing machine keep in mind this one thing it's for lift. 1 hat is why you want to select your machine at a Singer store. HAT'S a characteristic Roosevelt it took them over six streams and through trick." remarked a veteran of the many gorges from B0 to 600 feet hlgn. me Philippine Insurrection when he volunteers got ahead; every evening the heard of the appointment of Cup- head of the column halted for supper, after tain George Curry, governor of a little brush with the Filipinos, and before Bamar province, to be governor of the the inarch wa taken up again tne tinaie territory of New Mexico. The announce- of the bell mare of Curry pack train ment of Curry' elevation to the governor- wa heard in the distance and he was right ship of a territory came without any warn- with us ready for the start the next day. Ing, and It was said at the White Housa "The race wa kept ,up with the volun- that probably no one would be more sur- teens In tho lead until In crossing the last prised than Captain Curry, to whom new gorge one of the mule of Curry' pack Of hi appointment wa cabled last week "There' an adjective In Greek," contin ued this Philippine veteran, describe Curry; It ha slipped my mind for the moment but freely translated It mean 'walk up to anything.' That' the train si limed and broke Its neck. Instead of abandoning that puck Captain Curry un- v. .1 packed the mule and men handled the pack men aptly . . ,K. k., h nouid UUfc IV mo v . " " d " n i not overtake the regiment for night had come. He ordered his mules unpacked and i. . .... rf thm nacks Outslda '.I'.Vl ih.! "eW .r:!"10' ' Nr themule. and Curry and hi. men. armed only with lx-hooter there wa not a carbine In the bunch sat there tne nignt Mexloo la; he will walk up to anything; he doe not know the meaning of the word Y THtSt ftlQN YOU MAY KNOW AND WIU. TWO aisram stores kvuy WHCKC. I its A Sold only ty Singer Sewing Machine Co. 1MI Pooslss St. and S2.1 S. 13th St., Omaha, 44ft N. 81 Lb. St., Ho. Omaha. 343 West Uroadway, Co. Bluff. J-' fear and thing that would frighten even Wore blg. biasing Are. .homing a brav man out of hi. boots merely make and yellln, themselves hoarse, hourly ex- Curry' little blue eye twinkle the faster. pectmg. to be rushed by the natives any Boms people wear their years well; some moment, but endeavoring to frighten them badly. Curry doe not wsar hi at all. away by making enough noise for a regl- Tou never think how old he Is; you often ment. The pack train overtook the regl- wonder ho,w young he may be. I have ment in the town the next day. Hayea got known him a long time, but I never in with hi men about o'clock, but the thought of hi age until you asked; he 1 pack train In charge of the regular did probably S year young, not old. Curry not arrive for two day, wa at one tuna sheriff of a county In "it waa a remarkable performance, ths Arlaona. He 1 western born and brought promptness with which Curry got that pack up. and there la no better type of that train through. The story of It 1 told In sectlop of country. H waa a captain In the Island, today to all newcomers, the Rough Riders, but he had the hard luck Characterlstlo of the man wa. hi. coin- to belong to that battalion which wa left ment to hi commanding officer when he Demna ana aid not get to the front. He arrived: "I would be obliged, sir. If you did not get to Cuba, and It was about the WOuld Issue some carbines to me and my hardest lick Curry ever had. When In the men the next time wa start on a hike; we Rough Rider ha had tha promise of his might hav a little trouble In handling colonel's assistance and was thereby en- the situation If we were attacked and bad abled to get a second lieutenancy In the only six-shooters." Eleventh cavalry. He wanted a captaincy. since then Curry ha been In the thick but that wa not to be had. o Curry took cf many a fight, and when peace time, the Job at hand. He went to the Philip- cm be waa In the custom, service In pine, with that regiment, expecting to see Manila for a time and later wa. appointed some fun. He received another disappoint- governor of Bamar. He wa. lost for ment when he wa. placed In charge of the while last year when he went out with regimental pack train, but It wa alwaya some school teachers to conduct negotla- Curry' way to do the day' work, whether tlon with the native and the party waa the work wa to his liking or not. Ths attacked by tnsurrectos. When the party Eleventh cavalry wa attached to Oeneral returned Governor Curry wa missing. He Bates' division, which waa at that time turned up some time later. Wben tne at engaged In ths occupation of Cavlte and tack came he bad Jumped Into the rlvsr fiiunni nrovtncea. 'Jack' Haves waa and ducked out of sight on the other side lieutenant colonel of the Fourth cavalry. nd set about reconnolterlng for himself ti niitintMri and tha r.truiira .t nut to find out who the trouble makers were. from two Dointa about flvs miles anart to tatr turned up and want down with v,ib. it .on... h i.i ani and atntxh a Hn, the troops to restore order. Into which Oeneral Wheaton was to drive The president has never forgotten Curry ths enemy. Currv waa In charge of one nd ha. kept In touch with him through park train and the other wa made up of men who hav served lu the Philippine t-v.. iin. f ,. ,,-h talon h, th. and havsen the kind of work he ha volunteer wa aa rough a bit of hiking a teen doing out there. At last hi reward ever fU to a soldier lot in th Islands; & oome.-oion iTanscrii.w r Fifty Per Cent Than in any other 10 cent package. Every package of E. C. Corn Flakes contains 50 more toasted corn flakes than any other 10c. package on the market. E. C. Com Flakes so far sur passes other brands in quality that there can be no comparison. It is made in the Egg-O-See way. More Egg-O'See is eaten each day ,than all other flaked foods combined. And E. C, Corn is repeating Egg-O-See's success and taking the country by stormbecause it has the real Egg-O-See quality and absolute purity. The Egg'O See process devel ops the delicious natural flavor of the grain no artificial flavor of. any kind is used. Largest package best food 10c. Get a package at once and judge f r yourself. Your grocer should h;ve it. If not, insist on his getting it for you, or send us his ttaaGS and 10 cents, and wo will send you a package prepaid. EGG-O-SEE CEREAL COMPANY, Chicago, U. S. A. 1$ ' FLAECES 1 ) -,..y I