Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, September 18, 1904, Image 30
Trnomirin ftr Or'ofcfr llrlifoa. KW YORK. Bent. 16. Just no N fnshlonabln dressmaking estab I lishinents are. Involved in bridal finery. October Is tlie month for autumn weddings, and tlio ap proach of the period shows no decline of Interest In the holy knot. And as May be eapeetod from the other styles which pre vail, the trousseaux of the coming bride will Ihj picturesque ami enhancing in every way. Never d!d fashion offer so many coquet ries for an estate which demands that ev erything shall be coquettish. Hats high crowned and Daring in brim are trimmed in a way both audacious nnd feminine Hicy and the numerous bhert nnd jaunty mantles--some of which seem almost to have stepped out of old W'alteau engrav ings suggest the portraits of Gainsbor ough and Mme. Vigcc l.e Jirun. Merely the way ostrich feathers arc put upon modish bendgtur is to show the Influence of these distinguished painters. The plumes, which arc of the most fluffy and magnificent quality, are all applied In the old daring Ways, standing up in wild bunches and Sprawling over wide brims in a manner to how that their loveliness Is the main thing considered-. Of course. In discussing bridal garments, the newest anil rarest models should come first, but It does not follow from this that all the world is being married in Parisian Confections. Many a charming altar frock la being turned out in a material far from expensive, mousselinc de sole and even India mull shaping a number. Certain mus lin has even been employed in Paris, but neeordii'j; to authorities tbl-i Is so cut out and worked up and transformed with the addition of other fabrics that the original texture i. scarcely recognizable. Upon the nil-mull and niousscllne gowns la lavished a world of I lie llncst needlework, along with iu;ilnt ami charming manipula tions of the dress material. In these, the old clumsily simple puffs, put on with nar row withered headings, rank lirst, for they are much favored and used. Put on In straight rows and sometimes as tin edge at the hoi tool of a skirt, these are dubbed by many drcusmuki rs grandmother puffs, fichu draperies on the bodice going with Ahem. In character, the white altar dress Is the Same as ever, except that fashion now per mits sleeves to he elbow length. They nro met by long gloves, which wrinklo over the arms, and from the opening of which the hand Is merely slipped for the ring. The bridal waist Is severely high in the throat, for the least degree of decolletnge is con sidered Indceorous. Put a low cut will often he simulated in many ways, nnd then filled In with a high lace gamp or yoke of cme sort. The length of the train seems to be a matter of Individual taste. Borne of the round-gored skirls, made with some thing of the old fullness, barely fall upon the lloor. Those with robo fronts are often extremely long, and upon these are lav ished the quaint trimmings that go with these stately nnd antiquated styles. The veil, most charming feature of tha enllro bridal toi'ette, is carefully consid ered. Many brides wear the big lace v lis covering the entire figure, and giving them the look of Fhrouded statues. Hut tulle rlls are equally in vogue, and far less expensive than lace and, somehow, they seem more suited to very youthfu". brides. They are attached to the coiffure in what ever way Is becoming to the weaior, but generally fall from knots or a half wreath Of orange blossoms. CJi.Ing to the ultar the Veil Is worn over the face, nrd c mlng from It thrown ha' k. Two rarely beautiful bridal dre sr-s sh w new and charmingly simple skirt tiim' mlngs. Upon a gown of while satin do I.,yons, which Is still prime ehieo for bridal wear, a chain of orange b'os sonis 1 looped with bows Into I.ouls XV garlands. Tho lowcut bodice Is shlrre.l at sleeves, bust and Imck and lillel la with a yoke of duehesse lace. Two fi Ills or the same lace fall below one of tho sic. -, oh, which are elaborately puffed and trlni'i.el down the shirring with orange blossoms. A wide crush belt of satin with pearl buckle and slides completes the co'tuinn. In attendance open this rich gown Is shown ft bridesmaid's dress of jalu line silk muslin, fashioned wltn a quaint fjirl Ishncss and decked with frills nnd barn's of saffron-tinted Valenciennes. The fiailng hat Is of pahi b'ue felt with saffron fath ers nnd a large pink rose. Artificial roses continue to be of the enhbagrt variety. A number of the huge and rather coarsely textured ones are called calico roses, there showing marvel ous reds nnd ppleruilily decking f hi -red Velvet hats. As for the hats themselves' they ail look like stago tranu'nes, for they ' '- are very high In crown, flaring In biin and theatrically garnished. The second bridal gown Is of wl.l e s!l' muslin trimmed with pure white vuh n ciem.es and grandmother ru!Ts. A pi i:i band of these bordeis, the tnln, which hangs loosely, with an additional cde of lace over the petticoat froi.t. i:hrt Ehapcd puffings k.oid fro n knot of orange blossoms und Louis XV lace- b w- superbly deck tho back of the long tr.il. The slightly b'.ousing brwilec Is made with a yoke and Is elaborately trimmed with Valenciennes. The matron of honor costume Is of pa'o mauve eta mine encrusted with ir-.aute lace. The hat with It Is of man felt ami ostrich feathrrs. Other materials used In the new bridal yellow tulle toque worn with this gown bore a cluster of while aigrettes held by a diamond bow " IjUo trousseaux exhibited by leading makers display many reception and dinner gowns of velvet. In these marvelous siiades of brown figure nnd rich reds, some of which border tn terra cotta, for In all of the new reds brown shows, and in the browns red. A shop window dressed In either of these colors literally meets the eye wilh a flash. In point of color it is like a corner In sumo rich palace, and the mind instantly con nects the tones with splendid furs. A reception gown aired by one fine trous seau !s of velvet in the deepest of these reds, the stiff "stomacher" bodice ar ranged with a fichu yoke in old yellow net. Imm mm WJvii.li 'i. Nik URIDAI, GOWN OP WHITE SATIN WITH LOUIS XV OAMLANDS. go ns are chiffon cloth, crepe de PtU, crepo de cliine and many pattirns of fancy silk, all of which effect n mori I'aii y-l ke air than do satin and tho pliiu he ivy si ks. But bridal t radii Ion still h lds sitin and point lace as choicest bridil in itc rials, and somehow they s?em always the most fitting, and nre only to le, s-t aside when the cost makes them Impossible. Tho toilette of the bride's mother is a disputed point. According to some author ities she should wear only gray for bl ok is unlucky but straight from Paris come word to refute the prejudice. At a fash ionable wedding the costume of the bride's mother was described as "a notice i He c n fectiiia of straw-colored rrtpe arranged tn long folds. The front cf the skirt. In npvou form, was covered with n iTeep fringe n add of pa e yellow crystal beads. Tho cor igo hud breltllca of Alcncon luce, and the ulry The net sleeves, wliich are elbow length, urc liulshed with a velvet bow and oval gar net buckle. A wide velvet puffing with a yellow lace edge borders the tkirt, and the red velvet hat is trimmed with a tulle crown band and ostrich feathers in a deep cream. Rich velvet mantles are shown by a num ber of the new trousseaux. The skirts of some of the long evening coats are shirred to yokes to match the elaborate shirred hats. Other velvet wraps are In quaint man tle shapes, and beyond a marvelous manip ulation of tho material itself, and falls of rich lace at the front or perhaps under the cdffe, they nrp for tho most part un trlmmed, if tho Jeweled buckles and but ti n which appear on many may ' bo ex cepted. In cloth nnd velvet arc considered rich bride materials, which, after all, however. only mean something new and as bandsoma as possible. Some of the great dressmakers are put ting forth trousseau textures nnd cuts in dividual to their house and stamp. Fur In stance, Instead of the usual fancy traveling wrap, one place displays a redingote of coarse Scotch wool, whose only commenda tion Is some large ball buttons of shining gilt. But the cut of this rendingote is dashing, the skirts being put on at tho hips in the way of those of many of the mascu line overcoats. Smart traveling gowns are also shown in these wools. They are made with long half-fitting coats und skirts pleated each side of the apron. The turn-over collars nnd cuffs arc of plain velvet, but a brilliant novelty with one such gown was a waist coat of embroidered kid in a-vivid scarlet. To go with evening gowns are some cir cular capes of white or coral pink cloth made very plainly, depending, In fact, al most entirely upon the cut. Other evening wraps are in sacque form, some lung, some short, nnd the majority display decorations which may be described rather as dainty than elaborate. In fact, a scrupulous nicety prevails in all departments of dress, the doing away of sleeve falls for street wear having come from their tendency to untidiness. The merest ornament, too, becomes by the man ner in which it is disposed something that st ems precious, livening slipper bows are feats of prcttiness, und those for bridal wear display elaborate pearl and crystal bondings. . L'pon gauzy dinner and dance toilettes Jeweled buttons arc a feature, those holding down rosettes which festoon into garlands other trimmings upon the skirt. With bridal lingerie, these charming and sentimental forms are carried out In ex quisite hand embroidery. The finest linen or French lawn compose the choicest of the bridal sets, which show, besides the gar land embroideries, monograms in old French lettering. Dress has Indeed reached a stntely point; and it looks as if it were creeping toward further ceremony. MARY DEAN. A Vital Question "I understand," said Colonel Kalntuek, "that Jedge Parker cultivates a good hit of rye." "Yes," said the man who was soliciting the colonel's interest, "he does." "Also some corn." "Yes." "That's all very well," responded the blue grass leader, "but tell me this. Does the jedge raise any mint?" Philadelphia Inquirer. A SKIN OP BE A! TV IS A JOY FOREVER. , TIi. T. 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