Trnomirin ftr Or'ofcfr llrlifoa.
KW YORK. Bent. 16. Just no
N fnshlonabln dressmaking estab
I lishinents are. Involved in bridal
finery. October Is tlie month for
autumn weddings, and tlio ap
proach of the period shows no decline of
Interest In the holy knot. And as May be
eapeetod from the other styles which pre
vail, the trousseaux of the coming bride
will Ihj picturesque ami enhancing in every
way.
Never d!d fashion offer so many coquet
ries for an estate which demands that ev
erything shall be coquettish. Hats high
crowned and Daring in brim are trimmed
in a way both audacious nnd feminine
Hicy and the numerous bhert nnd jaunty
mantles--some of which seem almost to
have stepped out of old W'alteau engrav
ings suggest the portraits of Gainsbor
ough and Mme. Vigcc l.e Jirun. Merely the
way ostrich feathers arc put upon modish
bendgtur is to show the Influence of these
distinguished painters. The plumes, which
arc of the most fluffy and magnificent
quality, are all applied In the old daring
Ways, standing up in wild bunches and
Sprawling over wide brims in a manner to
how that their loveliness Is the main
thing considered-.
Of course. In discussing bridal garments,
the newest anil rarest models should come
first, but It does not follow from this that
all the world is being married in Parisian
Confections. Many a charming altar frock
la being turned out in a material far from
expensive, mousselinc de sole and even
India mull shaping a number. Certain mus
lin has even been employed in Paris, but
neeordii'j; to authorities tbl-i Is so cut out
and worked up and transformed with the
addition of other fabrics that the original
texture i. scarcely recognizable.
Upon the nil-mull and niousscllne gowns
la lavished a world of I lie llncst needlework,
along with iu;ilnt ami charming manipula
tions of the dress material. In these, the
old clumsily simple puffs, put on with nar
row withered headings, rank lirst, for they
are much favored and used. Put on In
straight rows and sometimes as tin edge at
the hoi tool of a skirt, these are dubbed
by many drcusmuki rs grandmother puffs,
fichu draperies on the bodice going with
Ahem.
In character, the white altar dress Is the
Same as ever, except that fashion now per
mits sleeves to he elbow length. They nro
met by long gloves, which wrinklo over the
arms, and from the opening of which the
hand Is merely slipped for the ring. The
bridal waist Is severely high in the throat,
for the least degree of decolletnge is con
sidered Indceorous. Put a low cut will
often he simulated in many ways, nnd then
filled In with a high lace gamp or yoke of
cme sort. The length of the train seems
to be a matter of Individual taste. Borne
of the round-gored skirls, made with some
thing of the old fullness, barely fall upon
the lloor. Those with robo fronts are often
extremely long, and upon these are lav
ished the quaint trimmings that go with
these stately nnd antiquated styles.
The veil, most charming feature of tha
enllro bridal toi'ette, is carefully consid
ered. Many brides wear the big lace v lis
covering the entire figure, and giving them
the look of Fhrouded statues. Hut tulle
rlls are equally in vogue, and far less
expensive than lace and, somehow, they
seem more suited to very youthfu". brides.
They are attached to the coiffure in what
ever way Is becoming to the weaior, but
generally fall from knots or a half wreath
Of orange blossoms. CJi.Ing to the ultar the
Veil Is worn over the face, nrd c mlng from
It thrown ha' k.
Two rarely beautiful bridal dre sr-s sh w
new and charmingly simple skirt tiim'
mlngs. Upon a gown of while satin do
I.,yons, which Is still prime ehieo for
bridal wear, a chain of orange b'os
sonis 1 looped with bows Into I.ouls XV
garlands. Tho lowcut bodice Is shlrre.l at
sleeves, bust and Imck and lillel la with
a yoke of duehesse lace. Two fi Ills or the
same lace fall below one of tho sic. -, oh,
which are elaborately puffed and trlni'i.el
down the shirring with orange blossoms.
A wide crush belt of satin with pearl
buckle and slides completes the co'tuinn.
In attendance open this rich gown Is
shown ft bridesmaid's dress of jalu line
silk muslin, fashioned wltn a quaint fjirl
Ishncss and decked with frills nnd barn's
of saffron-tinted Valenciennes. The fiailng
hat Is of pahi b'ue felt with saffron fath
ers nnd a large pink rose.
Artificial roses continue to be of the
enhbagrt variety. A number of the huge
and rather coarsely textured ones are
called calico roses, there showing marvel
ous reds nnd ppleruilily decking f hi -red
Velvet hats. As for the hats themselves'
they ail look like stago tranu'nes, for they
' '-
are very high In crown, flaring In biin and
theatrically garnished.
The second bridal gown Is of wl.l e s!l'
muslin trimmed with pure white vuh n
ciem.es and grandmother ru!Ts. A pi i:i
band of these bordeis, the tnln, which
hangs loosely, with an additional cde of
lace over the petticoat froi.t. i:hrt
Ehapcd puffings k.oid fro n knot of
orange blossoms und Louis XV lace- b w-
superbly deck tho back of the long tr.il.
The slightly b'.ousing brwilec Is made with
a yoke and Is elaborately trimmed with
Valenciennes.
The matron of honor costume Is of pa'o
mauve eta mine encrusted with ir-.aute lace.
The hat with It Is of man felt ami
ostrich feathrrs.
Other materials used In the new bridal
yellow tulle toque worn with this gown
bore a cluster of while aigrettes held by a
diamond bow "
IjUo trousseaux exhibited by leading
makers display many reception and dinner
gowns of velvet. In these marvelous siiades
of brown figure nnd rich reds, some of
which border tn terra cotta, for In all of
the new reds brown shows, and in the
browns red.
A shop window dressed In either of these
colors literally meets the eye wilh a flash.
In point of color it is like a corner In sumo
rich palace, and the mind instantly con
nects the tones with splendid furs.
A reception gown aired by one fine trous
seau !s of velvet in the deepest of these
reds, the stiff "stomacher" bodice ar
ranged with a fichu yoke in old yellow net.
Imm mm
WJvii.li 'i. Nik
URIDAI, GOWN OP WHITE SATIN WITH LOUIS XV OAMLANDS.
go ns are chiffon cloth, crepe de PtU,
crepo de cliine and many pattirns of fancy
silk, all of which effect n mori I'aii y-l ke
air than do satin and tho pliiu he ivy
si ks. But bridal t radii Ion still h lds sitin
and point lace as choicest bridil in itc
rials, and somehow they s?em always the
most fitting, and nre only to le, s-t aside
when the cost makes them Impossible.
Tho toilette of the bride's mother is a
disputed point. According to some author
ities she should wear only gray for bl ok
is unlucky but straight from Paris come
word to refute the prejudice. At a fash
ionable wedding the costume of the bride's
mother was described as "a notice i He c n
fectiiia of straw-colored rrtpe arranged tn
long folds. The front cf the skirt. In npvou
form, was covered with n iTeep fringe n add
of pa e yellow crystal beads. Tho cor igo
hud breltllca of Alcncon luce, and the ulry
The net sleeves, wliich are elbow length,
urc liulshed with a velvet bow and oval gar
net buckle. A wide velvet puffing with a
yellow lace edge borders the tkirt, and
the red velvet hat is trimmed with a tulle
crown band and ostrich feathers in a deep
cream.
Rich velvet mantles are shown by a num
ber of the new trousseaux. The skirts of
some of the long evening coats are shirred
to yokes to match the elaborate shirred
hats. Other velvet wraps are In quaint man
tle shapes, and beyond a marvelous manip
ulation of tho material itself, and falls of
rich lace at the front or perhaps under the
cdffe, they nrp for tho most part un
trlmmed, if tho Jeweled buckles and but
ti n which appear on many may ' bo ex
cepted. In cloth nnd velvet arc considered rich
bride materials, which, after all, however.
only mean something new and as bandsoma
as possible.
Some of the great dressmakers are put
ting forth trousseau textures nnd cuts in
dividual to their house and stamp. Fur In
stance, Instead of the usual fancy traveling
wrap, one place displays a redingote of
coarse Scotch wool, whose only commenda
tion Is some large ball buttons of shining
gilt. But the cut of this rendingote is
dashing, the skirts being put on at tho hips
in the way of those of many of the mascu
line overcoats.
Smart traveling gowns are also shown in
these wools. They are made with long
half-fitting coats und skirts pleated each
side of the apron. The turn-over collars
nnd cuffs arc of plain velvet, but a brilliant
novelty with one such gown was a waist
coat of embroidered kid in a-vivid scarlet.
To go with evening gowns are some cir
cular capes of white or coral pink cloth
made very plainly, depending, In fact, al
most entirely upon the cut. Other evening
wraps are in sacque form, some lung, some
short, nnd the majority display decorations
which may be described rather as dainty
than elaborate.
In fact, a scrupulous nicety prevails in all
departments of dress, the doing away of
sleeve falls for street wear having come
from their tendency to untidiness. The
merest ornament, too, becomes by the man
ner in which it is disposed something that
st ems precious, livening slipper bows are
feats of prcttiness, und those for bridal
wear display elaborate pearl and crystal
bondings. . L'pon gauzy dinner and dance
toilettes Jeweled buttons arc a feature,
those holding down rosettes which festoon
into garlands other trimmings upon the
skirt.
With bridal lingerie, these charming and
sentimental forms are carried out In ex
quisite hand embroidery. The finest linen
or French lawn compose the choicest of the
bridal sets, which show, besides the gar
land embroideries, monograms in old
French lettering.
Dress has Indeed reached a stntely point;
and it looks as if it were creeping toward
further ceremony. MARY DEAN.
A Vital Question
"I understand," said Colonel Kalntuek,
"that Jedge Parker cultivates a good hit
of rye."
"Yes," said the man who was soliciting
the colonel's interest, "he does."
"Also some corn."
"Yes."
"That's all very well," responded the blue
grass leader, "but tell me this. Does the
jedge raise any mint?" Philadelphia Inquirer.
A SKIN OP BE A! TV IS A JOY FOREVER. ,
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yit Wio hariule.-.
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BEAUTY
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