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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (July 20, 1902)
12 THE OMAHA DAILY BEE: SUNDAY, JULY 20,. 1002. dp tho Auditorium. IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. HAtr-MOLIDAT GOWNS. Row t S V t Data Yet Hot Otf. 4 recced. " KEW YORK. Julr 1. 80 extravagant are lb faabloes nowaday (hat bread-earnlag women complain of tha Impossibility of finding effects which eombin Tnsrtiiets with food taata. For tha Saturday after Bona jaunt, not having tlma tor a change f costume, they put en in tha morning gown which are all right la theroeelves lor tha pleasuring la proapect, but which are entirely unedited to tha requirement of builne life. Then, aside from tha an noying attention which tbeae too flxy toilette involve, they are often In tex tile and color which will not atand the wear and tear of half-holiday need. Be Cora tha day la over.' they have taken on- a wilted air, crisp ribbon bow are crumpled, thin lace tor, and when tha clock atrikea 12, ao to apeak, tha Una young woman of tha morning return to her abode like Cin derella of the fairy tale. Having received many requests for de signs In thin especial quarter, one of New York' moat enterprising merchant la Just now offering for sal a vait number of lace will give them a very fetching air. The fullness la required by the fact that the Imitation linen bav but little body, and In tha acant thspea the aklrta allnk unbecomingly. The flouncing should all be cut oa the straight and heavily tucked. Another good material for practical sum mer underskirts la brown or black pongee. Cool a cool these are, washing like hand kerchiefs, and emerging from the tub a good as new. DaahlntT and Staaalaa-. Three balf-hollday frock of uncommon dash are among those shown. The simplest and yet most stunning of the lot might be worn by a young woman who wants to play at Maud Muller, for Incredible as It may seem her finery might even go hay making and not be greatly damaged. gaga green and tan cbambrays form the basis of her splendors botb warranted wash tints In thl material. The model of the gown Is especially charming. It Is also the most novel thing aeea this season, and what la better still It la one of a small family. Only two other frocks were seen In the same design, and they were la different colore. The gown proper ts made of tha tan SEASHORE WOOL GOWNS. simple yet effective costumes. They go under the alluring bead of "half-holiday salts," and though many of tha modela are till a deal too elaborate for the purposes for which they are Intended, a careful aearch will reault In finding the right thing. For aeaahora Jaunting all tha gowna were In wool and In colore which tha aalt air would not be likely to affect. On the other band, country frocks were In wash ma terials, linens, ducks, ginghams, cheviots and piques, with a gratifying absence of white everywhere. ' "White soils too easily," said the oblig ing and sensible saleswomsn. And, as auto crat of the occasion, I will add that a white gown of any sort Is distinctly bad taste In a business office. Black Is always effective, and soft, quiet tints, if properly made up, more stylish than any of the conspicuous ((facta which now enrapture tha unsophisti cated. Ready Mad Preeka, With this amiable eermon let us proceed to the week's suggestion of some of tha most desirable of these ready-made frocks. In trio of tatlor-Bnlshed gowns one Is In eld blue linen one of those dim, soft blues with .the bodice and akirt In Una tucks. Tbeae portions of the suit, to aecommodata the tucking, are In a light weight linea, the coarse, loosely woven sort. Tha band trim ming, which Is stitched with black, and the flouooe section of the Jupe la la a closer and heavier weave. Cut In V-shaped pieces this forms a stylish shoulder and hip yoke, with straight blase capping tha aleeve. Wider polo tad bands outline the skirt flounce end a Shaped belt of black patent leather neatly girdles ths waist The entire costume ts uallaed. Brown butcher's linen, the heaviest used far costumes, realizes the second toilette, jWhlck displays a bodice trimming of black and brewn embroidery. The lower portion of the bodice of this. In up and down box pleats,' with a tucked round, the Jupe flounce and yoke and aleeves of the suit being of tha plain linen. A neck ruffle of black silk muslin la an effective detail with thta cos tame, which ts also without lining Mercerised linen. In a dull, artlstte green, Is the texture of the third dress. The blouse bodies of this is entirely and the upper part of the skirt are bust decoration of diamond shaped pieces, held down by email black bona buttons. The aides and back of the skirt are alao box pleated; the aproa gore 1 plain, and the scant flounce la headed with a aarrew line of black needlework. The btgh collar band la likewise embroidered la black, and taoked at the upper portion the bishop's sleeves puff Into plain wrist bands. Apropos of mercerUed linen, which you knew ts a mixture of linen and cotton, the amartest wash petticoats of tho hour are being made of It. In the delicate color this glistening weave has almost the look of silk, and If the skirts are made suffl lently full, tucking and cheap torchon chambray, with the top of the circular skirt fitted at aides and back with fine tucks. - Th dim soft green forms tho trim ming, which is outlined everywhere wltb black stitching. On ths tucked blouse the contrasting color shapes a stole collar whose stocklese finish IS especially be coming to round young throats. The pretty elbow sleeves have an inner-arm tucking, which bulges the outside In graceful puffs. The. are finished Vtth deep flounces, edged with the same scalloped band of green which borders the skirt. Green bone but tons ornament -the bodice, dotting the scallops of the collar at the chest and buat The epaulette ehaplng of this collar over the shoulders Is a bewitching feature for' alight figures. As to the hat to be worn by. this smart young woman, It should be aa almple as effective. The shape might be of sage green straw, with a black liberty satin scarf drawn through yellow straw rings, forming the trimming. It haa been years since straw garnish tnga have been so much used on hats, and the bull eyes and crescents and balls seen are In many colors. Straw ornaments In black or white, however, are moat in favor and It la not uncommon to see them com bined with tulle and spangled nets. SUty. five cents will buy spiky, prickly half-balls, In deep yellow, which put on a black bat are convincingly stylish. Sometimes a flat brim will show a number of a hallow ones, modeet excrescences much admired. Straw buckles, with Jet trimmings, are French novelties. Other trliskt tatts. Going back to the gowns sapphire blua etamtne ta the baste of a suit for the sea shora girl, to be worn, perhaps, with a sailor hat. A band trimming of string- colored lace the grayish twine shade la the itylksh trimming, that forming ea tha bodice a stole-collar edged with a tucked border of the etamlne. The front and back of the bodice ta ucked and laco band finish the puffed elbow sleeves. The skirt flare Is made by the cut, the band of lace and tucks below the kaeaa only suggesting ths prevailing flounce. . A Russian blouse costume, also of blue, tor a small girl, la shown by th children' outfitters. Navy blue serge and black silk braid are the materials of It. Ons more suggestion for a seashore womaa and on more for a Uttl mis com plete the week's gowna. A band strapping of unusual effectiveness distinguishes ths grown up costume, a very effective toilette ta dark blue wool. The collar and undersleeves are made of a figured silk In black and white and a suit able detail would be a white silk parasol. For the children white le always good and Just now th makers of small fry wear are turning out some very pretty frock In nowy buntings. Some of these little suits Kill DC ETtry mothar feci ft' great dread of the pala and danger attendant upon the most critical period of her life. Becoming mother should be a source of joy to all, but the Buffering and danger incident to the ordeal maktt its anticipation ona of misery Mother' Friend is the only remedy which relieves women of tho great pais and danger of maternity ; this hour which is dreaded as woman! severest trial is rot only made painless, but all the danger is avoided by its use. Those who use this remedy are no longer despondent or gloomy; nervousness, nausea and other distressing conditions are overcome, the system is made ready for the coming event, and the serious accidents so common to the critical hour are obviated by the use of Mother's Friend. "It is worth its weight savs many who have used it. bottle at druir stores. Book containing valuable information of interest to all women, wXI Tin8Awa f be sent to any address free upon application tt I FSa aixsnao nza viator oo.. Atitnt, ?. U U kvLavIl are worn with new shapes In sailor hats. For those who prefer even plainer frocks than are here described, a Jacket suit of black eerge or broadcloth will provide endles peace for the half-holiday Jaunt. The shirt waists which must be worn with these are almost universally becoming and with a change of stock and a gay veil draped about the brim of a sailor hat one may bo transformed from the busy bee Into quite a butterfly. When you go for your stock ask for the "tautlng Groat." This horsey neckpiece, which was first worn by the sporting gentry of the English betting ring. Is the very latest caper In neckwear. Made In many wash materials, this stock folds over Ascot fashion, with short wide ends. A coronation belt of black walrus leather stylishly accompanies the "tautlng Groat." The fire-gilt buckle of this suggests the crown of Geat Britain, hence the title. MARY DEAN. FLOWER Of CIVILIZATION. Deference and Follteneea Between Hnaband and Wife. The man who, after a rude remark to a lady, begged her pardon, saying he had thought It was his wife, was of the kind very apt to be agreeable when outdoors and disagreeable when at home, the man who not only has never profited by the old fable of the sun and the north wind, who has failed to perceive that courtesy 1 the flower of civilization and the es sence of Christianity, but who has never learned that in tho long run It Is a good paying Investment. No man can hope to retain bis wife's affection, If she Is much of a woman, who constantly offends her sense of propriety and outrage her feel ing by his rudeness. She looks with envy at the woman whose husband listens with the appearance of pleasant interest when she speaks, sees always that she Is well served, tape oa her bedroom door befcr be ontere, by hla own deference obltgea that of others; and In the absence of courtesy, and Its visible evidence of appreciation, she ends by dethroning the demigod that every woman's husband Is to her In the beginning, holding In his place an Ideal with small resemblance to himself as the thing she would have liked for th guardian of her home, always a little saddened by realization of the Im possibility of Its actual existence, and Inevitably regarding her husband from a plan of personal superiority. A corresponding disregard for her best happiness Is shown by the woman who allows herself to treat ber husband with disrespect, who breaks In upon his re marks, directs upon him ber ridicule, points out his deficiencies, and complains of him to others. That woman's hus band, after a while, must feel a deadening of sensibility so far as she Is concerned; ehe may have a partner, she no longer has a lover. And, meanwhile, she has lowered ber own standard; for, after all. tt Is ber husband; and If It Is not true that a the husband the wife Is, never theless the wife takes her rank from and through him; and If he la so poor a thing, moreover. It ts supposedly ,the most In th way of husbands that she could attain. Manners, said Aristotle, are the leaser morals; and to one who sesrehes there Is a moral and a reason behind every princi ple of their code. The offender against their code I considered a boor because be breaks down that which refine and sweetens life,' and nowhere 1 this code ao vital as in the Intimate relations of the married, where It stands forever In the way of that rough familiarity which breeds contempt. There are Individuals who have the singu lar notion that attention to the minute matters of politeness In general la a con fession of Inferiority, and that, as between husband and wife. It la a silly superfluity. A man Is afraid of being thought uxorious; a wife Is afraid of seeming afraid; each thinks a certain carelessness, a certain roughness and brusquerle, the desirable method In publto, leaving one to Infer how much worse the want of courtesy may be In private. Why It should discredit a man to show, so far as a sufficiently gentle and differential manner doea it, that his wife is of more Importance to him than all the rest of the world Is, or why a woman should think her acquaintances would esteem her less on seeing that she looks up to her husband, regard him aa the laat and greatest work Of creation should be regarded as they, every one of them, either regard their own or wish they did will always be a mystery. For, In point of fact,' the more either as serts the other's dignity, gracefully and naturally and a without an effort, the greater the proportions that dignity as sumes, while, really, each I honored in honoring the other, and each Is happier. For the rest, the home where delicate djfe! A CHAMBRAY "MAUD MULLER" GOWN. '7V ' As manners between husband and wife are neglected Is almost always a scene of strife and vulgar bickering with partisan feeling. This child resents the careless and flippant indifference on one side; that child resents tho bullying on the other, and union and harmony become unknown quantities. But the home where a fine courtesy prevails, where the husband entrates the wife as he would the first lady in the land and com passes her with swent observances and sym pathetic care, where the wife never falls with the gentle 'word, the answering smile, ithe foreseeing thoughtfulness, the compell ing respect, ts a home where. If love did not exist beforehand, he would come and make his nest and abide continually. HARRIET P. SPOFFORD. For and Aboat Women. A bronze medallion of Susan B. Anthony Is to be presented to Rochester university and placed in the woman room, aa a memorial of ttie service done by her in opening1 the university to women. Miss Mary K. Garrett of Baltimore, has given 1100 for the purpose. A tablex similar to the one to be prenentc'd to Rochester has been placed In Bryn Mawr. Miss A. E. Bennett of London has at tained the honor of "equal to the thirteenth wrangler" at Cambridge tnis year. Miss Bennett is a Girt on student. The signifi cance of the success that has been at tained by Miss Bennett in mathematical study will be appreciated if It is borne In mind that there are only about as many hundreds of women .students as there are thousands of men at the university. Baron Oppenhetm, a German who haa been traveling and observing s) this coun try for several months, was asked what he thought of American women. That is a delicate subject, especially as I am not leaving the country and might get into trouble by discussing tt. I can only regret that your American girls refuse to emi grate to my country. The American woman is truly a product of your climate, all vigor and freshness and a gentle aggres siveness that makes her a delightful con trast to the monotonous sameness and less vivacious sister across the sea." There Is an ancient and more or less sub stantially founded tradition that no woman can write a letter without adding a post script of more importance than all the rest of the missive. A witty Frenchman con tributes the latest story on this fruitful topic. One morning he received a long and charmingly written letter from a woman whose handwriting he failed to recognize. She was evidently acquainted with him, for she wrote of persons and things in which he was interested. At the end of some dosen pages of feminine prattle came this postscript: "You will see by my new signature that I am married." The wife of the next British ambassador, who was Miss Wilson of New York City, la not the only American woman now so conspicuously placed in diplomatic life at Washington. The Baroness Hengelmuller is an American by blrih, as one of the guests learned somewhat to her surprise. She had been listening to the, conversation of the baroness, which Is said to be un usually vivacious and Interesting. "But what remarkably good English you speak," the woman said, leaning forward. "How remarkable for a foreigner." "But tt is not remarkable for me," Mme. Hengel muller answered, "In view of the fact that I am a Milwaukee girl." The wife of the Spanish ambassador is also an American. A woman who signs herself "Fat, Forty ancr Fortunate" writes to the New York Times In praise of her dog ss a companion. "When I think," she says, "of the many sad women who worry and wait all hours of the night to see their Inebriated sons or husbands stagger !:, getting curses and all sorts of abuse hurled at them for simply devoting themselves to those poor crea tures, making the rest of their night a comfortable as possible for them, I pat my self, and it is then single blessedness comes to the fore. I thank Ood for what he has given me money enough and the blessed privilege of being my own boss. Nothing more trying than my little yellow dog; no worry about a clean dress for her; no muslo lessons; no school days to worry through; no little tantrums, no piercing shrieks or screams when things go wrong and, beirt of all, no back talk. The people who have never had the companionship of a dog, be it mongrel or blooded, have lost half of their lives." Nevertheless. It must not be forgotten that there is a difference In dogs and that husbands are not all alike, whatever may have been ssld to the contrary. Frills oil Fashion. Novelty ' dress fabrics Include shot eta mines and grenadines. The handsomest of the new combs of tor toise shell and amber are embellished with small pearls and diamonds. Linen gowns In the pretty new shade of green, blue, pink and gray are made with lbson waists stitched with white. For trimming linen lawn dresses Parisian modistes and tailors are effectively employ ing linen passementerie tn soft ecru shades. In some of the watch fobs there Is a disk of leather at the lower end and the Initials are mounted upon It instead of being sep arate, i One of the newest of the flower trimmed pelerines is of brown tulle, with green moss edgings finished with green satin bow and long ends. Belts for men and for women come In plgnkln, seal and In other leathers, with the plain harness buckle, or the swivel bit, for a clasp. Silks in black and whrte and blue and white checked effects are expected to be very fashionable In the fall for gowns and separate waists. i Emerald-green hat trimmings, veils, bod ice, belt and collar accessories and para sols are everywhere seen and silk petti coats and gloves of the same color have recently appeared. Mercerized summer cheviots are among the popular fabrics for general wear on the beach or in the mountains. They are to be found In pure white and a number of delicate colors. On some of the latest picture and garden party hats are seen garlands of tea roses, pink geraniums or carnations combined with pure white quills, wings, or with an entire blackbird of good else nestled on the very top of the flat crown among soft loops and draperies of white mallnes, net or chiffon. The hats are otherwise severe In effect, the edges bound In black velvet, a simple band of twisted lawn being laid under the roses. A stylish gown worn at a fashionable summer resort is made of dotted silk-warp voile with Irish lace medallions Introduced vertically on the very deep graduated skirt flounce. The high yoke la of the lace laid over pink chiffon, with matching under sleeves. A full blouse front Is shirred to this yoke and corresponding with tt is a narrow hip yoke of lace to which the skirt Is deftly shirred. This yoke extends up on the waist Just enough to form a small girdle pointed at the lop. The Way to Do It is to Take Stock in It. The way to pet stock without paying anything for it is to bring DO Diamond "C" Soap Wrappers to the Diamond "C" premium store, 301 South lGth St., and ex change them for a certificate which entitles you to a share of stock in the Auditorium Company. It also gives you a chance to win a prize in the Voting Contest, capital prize in which is $3,000 in gold. Certificates are IN ADDITION to the premiums regularly given with UuMMmd C YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. This famous National Park offers to the tourist and sightseer more novelties and curiosities than perhaps any other spot on earth. Th stage ride from Monlda la through scenery hardly Inferior to th Park Itself, and this ride Is one of th many enjoyments of th trip. ' The New Route to th Yellowstone Is via the Union Pacific and Oregan Short Una Railroads to Monlda. Montana, thenc dally by palatial Concord Coaches of th Monlda 4b Yellowstone Stage Company to all points In th Yellowstone National Park. Full' information cheerfully furnished on application to City Ticket Office. 1321 Farnam Street. 'Phone 318. BCHOOLS. r CMCAGO MUSICAL COLLEGE I Established 1807. Or. F. Zlsrfld, Pre. Cotligt Bui.dfnff. 202 M!oh!gan Blvd., Chleijo, CI. i i The larfrest and most complete Collage of Musle and Dramatic Art In America. The Chicago Musical College BulldlugU tbe finest structure in existence devoted exclo slvely to an Institution of Its kind. The system of Instruction and arrangement Of oourses represent the result of thirty-six years' experience. The faculty I the strongest ever assembled In any college of musical learning and numpors uifcj-UTe uieiuuera. School of Acting, ELOCUTION, Dr. r. Zletfeld .William Castle) Rudolph Canz Felix Borowakl mm School of Cpir, Modern Unguiiu. JUL BOARD OP MUSIOAL OiaSOTOBOl Dr. Louis Talk Hans Von Schiller Bernhard Llstemann 3. C Jacobsortn Herman Devries 'Edmond Vergnet Hart Conway, Director School of Acting, e Edmond Vsroxkt the world-famous tenor, who ertated the leading tenor roles In Paint Mains' Hurason and Delilah and Massenet's Herodlada, for tbe past five years Instructor et voice In tbe National Conservatory of Paris by appointment of tue French Government, baa been added to the college faculty. I at 37th SEASON BEE1XS SEPTEMBER 8. Naw Illustrated Catalogue Mallsd Fro. snssaBBassajBcs mamemm tmmnmmm m mmaaBmmm m ts-HOia-appluano lorfcattraod WparuatSnholarahlBSwtUaaraestvstf anot aU. BROWNELL HALL Rnmiii of five of tha beat known eollearca of America Included tn eorns ot Instructors. Music. Art and Modern Languages taught by women of extended rest in F.tirooein caDltals. under the instruction of the beat roasters. Gives good general education and prepares for any collet open to women. Principal's certifi cate admits to collesje. Out-door sports, splendid gymnasium under direction of pre visional Instructor. . aioo juavaaoi rinuiyi, wnnni. Iowa College, Grinned, Iowa DAN F. BRADLEY, President 66th Year ppens September 17th, 19 '2. FACULTY of thirty-five; welt appointed LABORATORIES : MUSEUM; LIBRARY of thirty thousand volumes; Men's and women uymimabiuiub; Aini.1111; irrirr.n tfiw rr)IJ.EOB RCHOOT. OF MUSIC; special course in Organ and Church MUSIC. 1U W A. LUUjMiH A AlJtt t prepares for any college. r Or 111 LUI 111 null auuacwv, J. H. T. MAIN. Dean of ths Faculty. Kleakell Mali. UvMUJWaeass Are., talus. WLeasta.Scaael American; Conservatory irHartattM! nnaiiui Artmtn wat. rinrvsmiueH asArawttorsi. TaaM3hr U-alnlnaT dsn. Maaf r VMt. Special rate io tinil paptla off ra hint tod SMm. Fill Urm riagiM Hiutembwl, li Ovt.ojii aMUWlW glVUXaf. UAlTfcTAEDT, lnto. .ijui-QR FINISHED GOWNS IN ART LINES. srm op BEAtmr fs a joy fokevei L T. FELIX GOUIAl'D'S ORIENTAL CIcAAL 01 AtAUllAL BEAU lints. Ramevea. Taa, rioptas (Tresklaa. Mota Patohaa, Haan aaa ssjiwam mm. aad everf Mamtsli oa beauty, and 4t to. It fcaa SMM ta lea ol years, ao le as LarmlMe we taste tt to ba sura 'i la properly mada. accopt as oountar- M annua Dw. L. A. aayro said to a la 4 of tho aaut-taa I. . I MBit 1 "As you ladies will use thorn. I reoom- Eiend 'QOURAUD'B CREAM' as the least armful of ail tho Skin preparation. For lo k all Drucalats ana aney uswu - In ik. TT M a n 4 KuroD. 4 A 33h r in lot u. a. nu i. n ml---rlRD. T. HOPKINS, V si ureal jobos aw, i- Buy The Sunday Bee 1902 "Chittendep Hall," Kearney, Neb.-!0J Dr. Chittenden will open his new board- ' Ing school (or girls, to be known as "MAN SION 8CHOOL," Sept. 23. Boys received under 14. For further Information address Chittenden Hall, Kearney, Neb. Solid Comfort Speed Safety Scenery tan Lillltli IMIM i mmi CHICAGO TO NEW YORK Three Trains Daiiy Esaalrs f jmu aearest RJlrai Ticket Ajsat r writ GEO. A. CULLEN Cles'l Weatora Paos'r Agesrt j 103 Adams Street, Chlcr