Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, August 28, 1898, Part II, Page 14, Image 14

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14 TUB OMAHA DAILY BEE : SUNDAY , AUGUST 28 , 1808.
IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN.
' ' s j W s
.v SIGNS.
Ulocincnt Indication * otvtlte Trend of
' Antiimn Strifes.
NEW YOHK , AUB 26. This Is the time
of the year when every new garment a well
dressed woman Hears Is Blgnlflcont of the
futiiYo , and September signs arc In the air ,
Hy next week alt the buyers will be crowdIng -
Ing hqmo from I'nrls , telling talcs of every
fresh enterprise In woolen clothes , coats
and hat , etc. Even now there Is a revival
ef custom and Interest all along the counters
of the blg.Bliopu , . and In Hip water color
Bkctihes , 'that the1 buyers always" send on
bcforoUhcra from Paris' , most Interesting
fortunes In finery can be told. Looking over
"
a dozen "of these pretty pictures any one
would prd'mptly catch tfie snggestlon that
fringes and fichus will ho amqng the- most
well defined features 'of autumnal splendor.
Evening and , calling gowns and tailor suits
11 display Bonio phase or another ot that
graceful shoulder drapery that folds kcr-
chlcfwlse o\er the bust.
A Protean Famlilon.
This Is n diversion of fashion In which
women stout and thin can allko participate
and with equal advantage , and the recalling
of the fichu to Us old-time honorable estate
Is an excellent means of bringing Into evi
dence fine old laces and cmbroldetcd muslin
that has been worked by hand in a distant
and more artisticday. .
On evening dresses the fichu Is quite
Protean In Its \arlcty of shades. It may bo
a scarf of precious old lace drawn rather
close about n corsage cut low , that Is , after
the court model , on the shoulders and knot
ting ' In , a soft bow on . { he .bust , .or It can
be'a' Stretch of Liberty silk , drawn .up and
fastened on the 'left "shoulder with Jeweled
pins. Women .vlio' possess pretty sloping
shoulders love towear small three-car *
Bcrc4 bt | , .drawn ruths clojo and the ends
knotted , small at the waist line , while one of
gonprouV'proporllons ' prefers the fichu that
floats In front , long and free from the
shoulder line.
"As a matter of fact , by a discreet use of
the fichu n woman can gl\e her figure Just
what lines and proportions she needs. By
drawing 'it taut or letting It fall full , she
can conceal or reveal all she pleases , and
for this reason-the fichu frontla unfailingly
noted on' , nlnor out , otf ten of the autumn
models In4 cloth. The fronts of such suits
ere for a slender .woman made full on the
shoulder , or' under { he arm they , cross. In.
euave llho.and fold over the bust , high up
or low down , In order to reveal beneath the
chin a rounded or pointed , vest of some eoft
contrasting goods. Occasionally one side of
this drapery passes down to the left' hip and
from there lets fall. a. long and a abort
ash end upon the aklrt.
The Crntat Fichu. '
Equally as pleasing Is the tiny cravat
fichu that Is adopted with the "wonojerfu.1 ,
end hitherto unseen striped cloths for winter
and autumn wear. ' Fancy , If you can , a
'
wine red cloth , finely barred In black satin
stripes. "The waist of this buttons up well
over the bust , but springs open on the chcit
In two small rev era. They disclose an Inner
vest. of Ducked silk , a high collar of white
silk tops.'oftthe basquebub 'tec take 'awjty
from any severity of llnei a kerchief of bls-
cult-colpred lace , edging a wisp of similarly
colored slllc lawn , pastes about the heck ,
under the rovers and knots artistically on
tie ) bust , Jesting a couple" of lace ends .pf
uneven lengths fair eten below the waist
line .
'On n certain- percentage of cloth suits
flat-shapc"d nchu ° ple"ces""wlll"f61d down f roin"
the shoulder. These will bo overlaid with
lace on white satin , be made wholly of
embroidered silk , or of. the plain cloth it-
eelf bordered with a alk ( ( fringe. One endi
carried- far down and low , under the. arm
will' faStc'ri there w'lth three largo 'fine but
tons and tha V-shaped space they leava
open under the chin will bq , ornamented In
divers ways. .
* '
> Lace * Are Connpleuou * .
'Once ' launched on autumn topics it Is es
sential togive some- recognition of the laces
that on vests and the fichus of day gowns ,
end in the trimming of evening costumes ,
will bo more than over conspicuous for the
n xt six months. To begin at the be
ginning , biscuit tint is' the choice "for the
approaching season if new lace is worn.
This is a soft , rosy cream tone that har
monizes dellolously with all the latest gas
light colors. There is also old lace color ,
but this so often degenerates Into a tone of
dirty j tea bro'wnHhat the \flrst' \ mentioned"
dye1 Is' preferred. ' ' f
Jit spite of the charms of the ever lovely
point de Venice , a species of pretty cut
out point is guaranteed to achieve a fine
place for Itself and the waved antique
Valenciennes and Valenciennes Incrustation
tangoing to predominate on .tho toilets for
debutantes. There Is also a new applique.
l c called ruby point , ' which in 'reality Is1
a palo ivory ecru Intorio. . t Rubyi pvoldt rs
>
worked In as heavy pattern qs Russian or
Renaissance laco,5 whlto | > an attractive 'but'
rather startling variety of weave , la. a cbarsa
bla k. ecru or biscuit colored ric't. adornea
In'ai Persian pattern , carried out exclusively
Irf [ dull gold and silver thread. Orient
veiling ona hears It nominated , and for a
While It is sure * f o maintain > a right royal
ppijjtlon , for only .a little his bten 1m-
p Vted , and that commands 'a pflco exclusive
to 'all ' of moderate means. Oriental veiling
la easily imitated In cheap net and gilt , and
i.once it will fall , when vulgarized , from
Itjr-hlgh estate.1"
] r > Fall Feather * .
\ThoEe who are reading signs and wonden
on\thc new horizon of fashion will not fall'
ta observe a few first millinery Indications ,
of ' * degree of .importance. For Instance , It
does not take great perspicacity to decide
that feathers will get a big share of fall
paironage. Whether complete stuffed fowls
rd going to bo sacrificed again to feminine
vanity one dares not yet Bay , but fans of
stiff , feathers w ill adorn the big new toquei.
This denotes that it is the spreading tall ,
not the wing * > of tbo bird , 'that is wanted
h < T plumage , bandsomely marked with eyes
an < T spots , Is the most desired.
'As never before In' point of perfect tint
and firm or rigged shape are they , making
autumn leaves for adorning the first bats of
IMPERIAL HAIR
REGENERATOR
\o { matter what th6 color op j
condition of < .your HAIR (
' ' '
treaky , . . 'BEACHED or'
GRAY it can bo made beau- '
titiil , glossy and natural by ono appll
cation of THE IMPERIAL HAIR KE-
OKN.iRAT.OR , It is a'ean ' , odorless
lasting , does not contain an atom of pol
sonous matter. Baths do not affect it
neither does curling nor crimping. ' In
coraparablo ( or the HEARD on aucoun' '
oflts tlomilinoHS'and durability. Sovot
colors cover all shade * , Prlco , * 1.5 (
and $3.00.
Solo Manufacturers and Patentees ,
Imperial Chemical M'f'R Co , S92 Fifth Ave
N. Y. For Rule IV Omaha by Rlchardsoi
Drug Co. , Hhtrninn & McConnell , 161
JLHxJBe Hi. ApplleJ by all hair dresser *
the season , made ot satin straw and chenille.
Nothing could be more promising than the
Indications for the dcml-scason hat , and the
milliners who can gauge their patrons' np-
pcttto for pretty surprises are garnishing
round brown and red and rusty green mixed
hats with ribbon and tufts of golden rod.
A green September hat made for one who
will go coaching In the Berkshire hills was
ot a shade of chenille and straw known as
hay green. Its crown stood an Inch and a
fourth high and the two-Inch wide brim
sloped down from It. All about the crown
ran a.full girdle of Michaelmas daisies with
maploleaVcs _ , half turned from a dull green
Into scarlet.
There Is a promise that later on , when
headgear becomes , a , really serious consider
ation with' every , woman , popular taste will
be invited towhet its appetite for novelty
blue silk violets , set on In n double row ,
A soft knot of these blossoms held the
fichu in pJr.co on the shoulder and the
wearer of the pretty drapery clasped her
'neck ' with a dog collar ot corals and blue
crystal Venetian beads ,
The fichu for a stouter woman and for
wear indoors is ghen in another figure.
This big kerchief falls over the shoulders
of a tea jacket made of white Madeira em
broidery over rose color. Of the simplest
white Brussels net the fichu Itself Is made
and trilled with net. Along the frill run
.three rows of black velvet bebe ribbon and
three rosettes ot this ribbon 'fasten the
fichu on either side to the jacket.
A black figured grenadine , made o\cr
whlto silk linings , Is the material of the
third model , Hero the close drawn kerchief
Is of white Limousine silk edged with black
n a hat material known-as camel's hair
elt. The specimens seen so far show a
retty quality of rather rough surfaced felt ,
n the appropriate dull colors , having a long ,
livery wool nap springing from It. In
aria , having done long ago with the wide
> at and the forward pitch of the brim ,
hey are placing small capotes very far on
he back of the head. Whether we will
ollow this initiative remains to be seen.
Lnte Summer Vagarlea.
Tor full three weeks yet , In spite ol
.utumn preparations , the light sheath ol
ummer garments will not be shed and still
nterestlng are some of the diversities In
white clothes. Duck and serge skirts , far
nstance , are wearing their pockets any
where but on the hips and inside thefront
widths. Two square catch-alls , with flap !
hat button down , arefrankly sewed on the
rent part , of the skirt , within handy reach j I
if the" weaver's right and left hands , and
nt $ th se she puts 'her belongings easily
nd comfortably. The promise of the tailors
s ihat wool walking skirt * for autumn and
winter shall be made with the same regard
'o convenience and that none of these
iklrts shall have a gather , or a pleat tbo
whole waist band around. A novel'pattern
ft easy and graceful shape is promised and
.hereby . a great thanksgiving goes up from
the feminine heart.
Aqother demonstration has been made In
the hand-wrought shirt waist and a novel
pattern has been evolved that we will carry
right on Into the winter wardrobes. This
atest manifestation Is tucked perpendicu
larly from neck band to waist line. Jn
groups ot small tucks , especially when the
' shirt is of silk , and not by a couple of
Inches , do the fronts of the garment meet.
They open to reveal a straight vest piece , of
whatever In a contrasting goods or color
you may elect to make It. A white silk
shirt , or a black one for that matter , will
open prettily upon a vest of pale green * or
turquoise blue silk , or whlto tucked lawn.
Instead of the shirt fronts lying wide open ,
on either edge , at Intervals ot three Inches ,
buttonholes are worked and by new link
studs the front are held firm but open , at
certain points of the vest.
t Thus , has a new species of shirt waist
given > rise to a new type of shirt stud and
the makers of such ornaments are turning
out , more or less widely linked , studs , net
with moonstones In silver , opals , cat's eyes ,
and star sapphires. The cuffs ot these
shirts are not contrarywlso held by link bub-
tons , too , but the sleeves fall in slightly to
wrist bands that are wide , soft and clasp
the wrists closely. By three buttons sewed
on to each band and three tlken loops the
cuffs are made fast. Of course the six but
tons required for this purpose are often
pretty cabochon jewels with gold shanks.
Illustration ! of Facliioni.
The three most adaptable types of flchu
to gowns that by a touch can be brought
Into Una with tho.prevailing mode accom
pany tbo text this week. One of these ker-
-hicf draperies is especially designed for
the furbishing up of an evening gown for.a
youug woman. The model from which , the
drawing was made displayed a close fitting ,
low-necked body ot blue
peau-de-sole anc
over the shoulder was flung a handkerchle
of the palest lavender Liberty Ilk , edget
with a deep flounce ot the same. All about
the verge ot tta Bounce ran a thick ruck ol
- . j wa egaM2i * . - - *
lace , and a high black satin collar with
lace ear tips completes the pretty demi- *
season tolje t. M , . . , . _ .
Simple school suits for young people .are
not difficult to find at this 'moment ' 'when
the tailors and dressmakers fon.boys'and <
girls are as , busy as bees. ( See , , for example - .
ample , the .five * young persons whose , wants
are so thoroughly considered tin the group , .
The 15-year-old girl wears a basket cloth
suit of wood brown. The skirt Is'plalo ! the"
waist has a tucked yoke with all. its if rent
fullness caught In by 'a ' broad belt of dark
red silk. Her zouave'Jackot Is edged with
red leather appliques , stitched on , and a
collar similarly trimmed turns over her
red silk throat band.
The second mlas .displays a kilted skirt of
green French . 'cloth worn with a darker
green pleated waist of corduroy. Over the
corduroy pleats extend traceries of tan
colored Bilk needlework and a wide tan
eathcr belt clasps her waist. The sleeves
ore ot cloth and high green cloth legging
mtton over the laced shoes.
Two studies'in small boys' coats and a
cloth school suit , as shown'In the picture ,
can hardly fall to give ideas to the Inqulr-
ng maternal mind. Both of the coats are
ot whip-cord of winter weight and the suit
In a finely striped winter tweed worn with a
stout little grcca flannel Milrt.
MAIIY UKAN ,
WIMIELMINA.
The Ynnthfnl Snrrrcltw eon lo Come
Into Her Inheritance ,
Queen Wllhclmlna of Holland , the simple ,
girlish figure on whom the roseate glow of
budding womanhood has just begun to cnit
Its strengthening rajs , Is about to assume
the responsibilities of the throne. She at
tains her legal majority 17 years on the
31st , and Is to bo enthroned September 8.
The fortnight ot festivities that will attend
the queen's Inauguration will rival the gala
days of the czar's coronation save that effort
will bo made to preclude the fatal results
which attended that flushed and gorgeous
ceremony. There Is a murmur of dissatis
faction from the upper classes of Holland
that so much of the program will bo given
up to the entertainment of the masses , but
the controlling ministerial policy has pointed
that way , and the queen regent and her
daughter have willingly followed.
The Dutch government will exhaust Its
ability In lavishing honor on Its young queen ,
and It has ordered home from Java all the
jewels In the treasury that have been taken
from the rajahs and native rulers ot that
vast Island , In order to make tor her a
crown , a scepter and an orb. Among them
arc some of the most splendid jewels lnthe ,
world.
Though the seclusion of the court has
kept the > oung queen carefully guarded ,
nevcrtheles her youth and unostentatious
ways have kept her very close to the hearts
of ite Dutch people , and there Is scarielr
a nation in Europe whoso loyalty Is mors ,
truly the result qf sincere personal affec-
tlon for the monarchical head. Queen Wll- ,
helmlna has been trained to the duties of a
typical Dutch housewife , ' and this knowrl-
edge was gained In a little house , of her"
own' , where she used to'pla'y and "in which
she did all -of the housework herself. Her
portrait In the national costume of a Dutch
housewife , with a linen colf.ovar her bekd ,
' *
- ' I-J > . ,
SMART FICHUS.
has alwarsb en a favorite among her pic-
tures. ' ,
t t %
( |
"
The < iueen "receives a liberal allowance
" from thfe state treasury , bilt aside from that
"she Is a rich heiress1. King William I , who
. was a great success commercially , amassed
a big private fortune , and this was enlarged
by hls successors. Besides , the bouse ot
' ' '
'Prague''has always known how to invest its
1 money to good advantage.
j. QueeU Wilhclmlna surely''has not'been
neglected by , fortune. She has youth , good
health , high spirits , great wealth and a con
tented , easily governed people. She has
several palaces and .country houses , and ,
although' they are not the most magnificent
! In Europe , they'are ' well endowed with ele
gance and comfort.
I The largest of these palaces Is the mas-
elve Town Hall In Amsterdam , which was
built In the sixteenth century , and presented
In 1SOS to King Louis Bonaparte aa a royal
> residence. Externally Its. appearance Is not
palatial , but it Is sumptuously furnished and
beautifully decorated. The great reception
room is truly magnificent , with a roof 100
1 feet from the floor , walls of white marble
and a generous array of splendid sculpture.
The mural decorations of the two dining
rooms and the tea rooms are elaborate. The
paintings throughout the pAlncn arc by
Dutch master * , and all thn decorations nro
rich In color. In the royal npnrtments aud
wnltlni ; rooms there ro heavy silk hang
ings , sumptuous furniture ot thn Klrnt Km *
plrc , delicate Italian nionnlc cabinet * , rich
scr\lco of Sevres and beautiful statuary. The
palace on the Hague Is small and unpreten
tious , having been designed ai the residence
of ouo of tha early Stadtholdcrs. It has com
fortable , well furnished apartments for the
loyal household and the walls nro lined with
family portraits , but there are no spacious
rooms for court ceremonies.
The court , while not locking In dignity
and distinction , Is conspicuous for simplicity.
Because of this it was not difficult for the
radical ministers to convince the qnccn re
gent and the queen , that the ceremony of
Inauguration , to take place on September G ,
would bo more advisable and practicable
than that of a coronation In what Islrtu -
ally a Dutch republic. There Is no ecclesi
astical dignitary In Holland who is consid
ered eligible to the office of bestowing the
crown and anointing the queen. The queen
could not receive the crown from the queen
regent nor the prime minister. She could
only crown herself , following the example
of one or two European sovereigns who had
no ecclesiastical dignitaries to fall back
upon , and this would not bo a procedure
either In harmony with Dutch precedents
or the temper of the people. The coronation
is consequently out of the question , and the
republican ceremony of taking the oath of
office has been substituted. The oath Is as
follows : "I swear to thu Dutch people that
I will observe and always maintain the con
stitution. I swear that 1 will defend and
guard with all my power the independence
and the territory ot the empire , that I will
protect public and private liberty and the
rights of all my subjects , and that I will
use every means confided In me by the law
to foster and uphold the-national and indi
vidual well being as a good queen should do.
And may Oed help me. "
tJOLK
Fetching : Resign * ( or ( he Nencat
Kind of Fancy Work.
Now that the girls have assiduously
pricked their fingers at making kltbags for
the departed soldier boys , they are turning
their attention to the needs of those at
home , and almost every man fortunate
enough to * be In the good graces of some
fair lady is having made for him a golf
belt. These are , Indeed , the very latest
ibfngs that jdcllght the eye on the golf field.
The golf belt has followed In the wake of
the golf waistcoat that was worn a season
ago and upon which it is an Improvement.
It Is not so clumsy and still has all the
Stjlo and cites the same touch of color to
the costume that the waistcoats were de
sirable for dolnc. To make them is very
simple and done quickly , being the broadest
kind of worsted work.
The measurement of the waist for whom
the belt is intended must first be taken.
Then a zone is cut of the dimensions out
of canvas , such as is generally used for
filling in slippers In cross stitch' . Usually
the zone Is fashioned w.th ) a point nt the
top and bottom of the front only , although
there is also a fancy for making two points
at the top to one at the bottom of the belt.
It Is cut to lag a little and fastens at the
side. Afer the belt is properly shaped end
cut it Is stamped crosswise with parallel
lines , not quite half an Inch apart. A
heavy Roman silk Is then taken and long
stitches ore made from one of the'lines to
the one opposite , working at right angles.
to the stamping and BO that the canvas Is'
*
well covered ,
When < the.filling { n with silk is done ,
strips of , stiff paper bre cut to coven the
Bilk , and are held In place while they are
worked over with long stitches of double
zephyr worsted in exactly the Bamermanner
as the silk has been done. The working of
the belt is then complete , exce'ptlng for
what Is.called the cutting and fluffing. Wlti )
a sharp pair of scissors the lines of wo. i
are cut through the middle from the
to the bottom of the belt. The use of liic
paper then becomes apparent , as It prc\cnts
the scissors from going through Into the
under layer of silk. The two halves of the
worsted lines that 'are thrown , up together
by the cutting are ruffed up by the points
'of the scissors upttl they form a compact ,
high ridge , while the silk appears on each
sfde as a ground work. The finer the mesh
of the canvas that Is 'used ' , In consistence
with getting the worsted through , the mere
body the ridge of worsted will have , and In
consequence.will be the prettier.
Two colors are always used for these
belts , that of the silk 'being much lighter
than the worsted. 'Red and .white make a
beautiful belt , or maize yellow and brown.
The belts have three whale bones stitched
on the wrong' side ot the front to secure
the points from rolling up , and they are
lined throughout with silk to match ono of
the shades that has been used. A cairngorm
germ or nament fastens the belt at tho'slde ,
and adds the finishing touch In 'making it
extremely odd and pretty. All true golfers
are glad to boast the possession of micb a
belt
WELL POSTED ON POLITICS.
Senator Platt'a Wife a Great Help to
Her Adroit Husband.
More than one prominent politician In
New York state Is of the opinion that with
out the help of his wife Senator Platt would
never have reached bis present position as
supreme dictator ot the republican politics |
In New York state. Tall , of regal carriage ,
and with a patrician air , Mra. Platt looks
the grande dame to perfection. Her luxu
riant hair Is almost white , but no one would
I for a moment say that Mrs. Platt is an old .
woman. Her bright , clear eyes and pinky
FREE ONB FREE
TRIAL BOTTLE
THIS OFFER ALMOST SURPASSES BELIEF ,
An External Tonic Applied to the Skin
Beautifies It As by Magic.
The Discovery OF the Age
.
A WOMAN WAS THE INVENTOR.
Thousands have tried from time immem
orial to discover some .efficacious remedy
for wrinkles and other Imperfections of
the complexion , but none had ytt suc
ceeded until tbo Misses Dell , the now fam-
oiia Complexion Specialists , of 78 Fifth
tvenuo , Now York City , offered the pub
lic their wonderful Complexion Tonic.
The reason BO many failed to make this
discovery before is plain , because they have
not followed' > the right 'principle. Balms ,
Creams , ' Lotions , etc. , never have a tonlo
effect upon the skin , hence the failures.
The MiSEcs Bell's Complexion Tonic has
a most exhilarating effect upon the cuticle ,
absorbing and carrying off all impurities
which the blood by * Its natural action is
constantly forcing to the suifaco of the
kin. It is to the skin what a vitalizing
ionic is to- the blood and nerves , a kind of
new life that Immediately exhilarates and
strengthens1 where\er applied. Its tonic
effect Is felt almost Immediately , and It
Bpeedlly banishes forever from the skin ,
trickles , pimples , blackheads , moth patches ,
wrinkles , ll\cr spots , roughness , olllness ,
eruptions and dlscoloratlons of any kind.
In order that all may be benefited by
their Great Discovery , the Missus Bell will ,
during the present mouth , gl\u to all call-
THE MISSJSS B5LL , 78 Fifth Avc. , New York City.
1 The > 9IUsc 'U ll' Complexion Tonlo , Complexion Sonp , Skin Food and De I
, pllo are for mmtc by all
complexion soon , set such an Idea at rest.
Mrs. Plait has' Just "reached the autumn
stage of life , where her Influence and ac
tivity are most felt. She has been a help
mate to her distinguished husband for many
years , and. In victory and defeat she has
nevec faltcrpd or failed' to encourage him.
It is said that she knows the politics of the
state and nation thoroughly and has certain j
unerring Instincts. Intuitions , or , better still ,
thttglt.of , BwlfU deductive reasoning , which '
leaps "ahe'ad.of : thp'lndhctlons ' of her hus
'
band. : 'OnGvthing'ii& ' s re , the , senator has
bever'bceh h'andicapped by his handsome
spouse ' , but , on the contraryho _ has always
fo'urid her equal Jn mental grasp and gener
ous sympathy to any emergency. Her days
are devoted to her husband and her grand
children , and.while , she moves In society she
wastes little time in fin de slecle frivolities.
Like her husband , sheila fond of the drama
and tho\-opera and is .often seen at the
theater.
ROYAL , WOML\ ; WHO SMOKE.
A Rn lnn Eillct' ( nrtlei the Grand
Uanicn of Europe.
As unexpectedly as a "bolt from the blue"
came the sad tidings , promulgated a few
days ago In court circles at St. Petersburg ,
that the gentle and gracious tzarltza would
'beigre.atly obliged to the ladles ot her
household If , for the future , they would
forbear from smoking cigarettes in her
pi esence.
This unlooKed-for Intimation , reaching
the Russian "dames ct demoiselles d'hon-
nenr" from BO exalted a quarter , was un
avoidably accepted by them as a command ,
and they ha\o summoned up courage to
address a humble petition to her majesty ,
entreating her to re\oko a request 'that
pracUcally Is a decree. In 'this ' prayerful
document , " says the London Telegraph , they
have ventured to remind Alexandra Feodor-
ovna that ladles are permitted to smoke
clpaictlos ut all the contlnintal courts ; that ,
among Jbe august female votaries of the
narcotic ) icrb , born In the purple , arc the
dowager tzarltza and her sister * tho'I'rln-
cess Thyra , duchess of Cumberland , as well
as "the Princess Henry of Prussia , born
Princess Irene of Hesse and the Rhine , own
Bister to the reining empress of all the
Russlas. The petition also deferentially
points out that the Austrian kalserln and
queen of Hungary , Maria Christina , queen
regent of Spain , "Carmen Sylva , " queen of
Roumanla , and the queen ot Portugal , as
well MB many grand duchesses , archduch-
AUTUMN SCHOOL CLOTHES.
ers nt their parlors one trial bottle of thett
Complexion Tonlo absolutely free ; and 1 *
order that those who cannot call or wha
live an ay from New York may bo beno
filed , they will send one bottle to any ml s
dress , all charges prepaid , on the receipt ot
25 cents ( stamps or silver ) to cover cost ot
packing and delivering. The price' ot thli
wonderful tonic Is (1.00 per bottle , and
this liberal offer should bo embraced by alt.
' The Misses Bell have Just published
their new b&ok , "Secrets of Beauty. "
This valuable work is free to all desiring
It. The book treats exhaustively ot tbo
Importance of a good complexion ; tells
how a woman may acquire beauty and
keep It. Special chapters on tbo cnro of
the hair : how to have luxuriant giowth ;
harmless methods of making the hair pr
servo Its natural beauty and color , e\en to
advanced age. Also Instructions how to
banish superfluous hair from the face ,
neck and arms without Injury to the sKtn.
This book will be mailed to any address on
request.
FREE Trial Bottles ot Wonderful Com
plexion Tonic free at parlors , or 5 cents
( coct of packing and mailing ) to those at a
distance.
Corraspondence cordially solicited. Ad
dress
esses and princesses of the blood , are inveterate -
veterato smokers.
In this category , moreover , belonged
though the Russian court ladles may not
be aw arc of the fact flic lovely and In
trepid former queen of Naples , Marie von
Wlttclsbach , who took an active part In
the defense of Oacta , wearing tbo undress
uniform of one of her husband's crack In
fantry regiments , and especially when
under fire was rarely seen without a
lighted cigar between her lips. Her younger
sister , the countess of Tranl , was a no less
habitual cigar smoker than she , and so was
the countess ot Glrgentl , by birth an in
fanta of Spain. As for the "society lead
ers" and "grandes dames do par le mondo"
In Russia , Germany , Austria-Hungary ,
Italy , Spain , and even In the realm of
Britannia Grundy , their name la legion. In
the Turkish harem smoking Is even more
"de rlgeur" than in the eelamllk , for the
wives and daughters of the well-to-do
faithful have few recreations besides - inhaling
haling the fumes of yellow "Jenldjie , " or
"klrltschlllar , " and nibbling what , In tha
states. Is gcncrlcally termed "swect-
trUck , " a designation Impartially applied
to "candy , " "pralines , " "foudus" and
"rahat lalioum. "
Mrs. Florence Cra\en , who Is , next to Miss
Nightingale , the oldest trained nurse in
England , cherishes among her decorations
the Iron Cross , the order of merit presented
by William I of Germany.
The duchess of Aosta , daughter of the into
Prince Jerome Napoleon , Is making dally
balloon ascents at Arco , In the ( Austrian
Tyrol , and Is such an enthusiast In'the sport
that Bho pronounces it "the most suitable
for high society. "
Mrs. Flora Annie Steel , the English writer
ot several serious and highly praised novels ,
has opened a new field for discussion by de
claring , just as our soldier boys are return-
Itag for a season of hero worship , that tha
girl who marries for lo\o is by no means
necessarily better than the girl who marries
for money or position ,
.Mrs. Albert Bowker , for twenty-two years
presldent'of ' the Woman's Board ot Missions ,
who died at her home In Massachusetts re
cently , had two foreign buildings named
after her Bowker hall In Bombay ; an
American mission nchool with more than 100
pupils , and Bowker hall , one of the two
large buildings of the American College for
Girls in Constantinople. . '
Mine. Melba is a good oars woman and she
loves no place in which to reveal her skill
more than the upper reaches of the Thames.
She Is well known by the rUcralde , both ,
aboyo and below Marlowe , and may almost
any day bo seen skimming tbo water in her
trim-built wherry. Sometimes , however , sha
prefers a punt to a boat. Her headquarters
are a pleasant houseboat moored just oft
Marlowe.
" " French novelist whose :
"Gyp , tbo spicy ,
real name Is the Comtesso do Mart-en , Is a
familiar figure In tbo Bols de Boulogne ,
wbero she Is often Been seated on her auto
mobile. She seems to ride rather for plcss-
uro than to see how fast she can go , and
nobody can accuse her of making any at
tempt ot costume , for she Is still known
as the most eccentric dreiscr In Paris ,
clinging to alapaca and poke bonnets , ,
There are no slow coaches among the
women of Las Cruces , N , M. They run the
town. Tour years ago the Woman's Improve ,
ment society of Las Cruces was organized ,
with Mrs. Mary S. McFlo as president. Al
though the town numbered 3,000 Inhabitants ,
there wasn't a bearso in the place. Tha
first thing that the women did was to buy
ono and let It for funerals at a moderate
prlco. They didn't take any undue advan
tage of their patrons , butall , the same tha
bearso proved a paying Investment. They
have bought ground for a public park ,
fenced It and planted trees and shrubbery
and are now accumulating money to erect a
town ball and public library building.
When Queen Taltou , the wife ot the Negus
Menelek , conqueror of the Italian troops In
Abyssinia , arrives with her husband and
dusky but brilliant escort in' Paris next
month even the gay Parisian will no doubt
marvel. "Queen Taltou Is no less Interest
ing that her husband. When she appears
In public she Is accompanied by many
women , mounted on richly caparisoned f-
mules , with bunncrs , umbrella bearers and '
other attendants , " says the Philadelphia
Post. "Taltou's umbrella Is a bright red.
She Is > ory stout , but withal her presence
Is dignified. She Is remarkably well In
formed-on current topics and is a charming
conversationalist. Her letters are well writ
ten and have a bright , natural style , sha
docs not dress any more rJchly than her
ladles'in waiting , but sno is. the very es
sence of cleanliness. The empress believes )
thoroughly In court etiquette and no ona
may gaze on her unless be has been formally
presented to her , "
Wichita , Kan. , has the distinction of bar
ing as a citizen a dresumaker who VB a j