IM 14 TUB OMAHA DAILY BEE : SUNDAY , AUGUST 28 , 1808. IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. ' ' s j W s .v SIGNS. Ulocincnt Indication * otvtlte Trend of ' Antiimn Strifes. NEW YOHK , AUB 26. This Is the time of the year when every new garment a well dressed woman Hears Is Blgnlflcont of the futiiYo , and September signs arc In the air , Hy next week alt the buyers will be crowdIng - Ing hqmo from I'nrls , telling talcs of every fresh enterprise In woolen clothes , coats and hat , etc. Even now there Is a revival ef custom and Interest all along the counters of the blg.Bliopu , . and In Hip water color Bkctihes , 'that the1 buyers always" send on bcforoUhcra from Paris' , most Interesting fortunes In finery can be told. Looking over " a dozen "of these pretty pictures any one would prd'mptly catch tfie snggestlon that fringes and fichus will ho amqng the- most well defined features 'of autumnal splendor. Evening and , calling gowns and tailor suits 11 display Bonio phase or another ot that graceful shoulder drapery that folds kcr- chlcfwlse o\er the bust. A Protean Famlilon. This Is n diversion of fashion In which women stout and thin can allko participate and with equal advantage , and the recalling of the fichu to Us old-time honorable estate Is an excellent means of bringing Into evi dence fine old laces and cmbroldetcd muslin that has been worked by hand in a distant and more artisticday. . On evening dresses the fichu Is quite Protean In Its \arlcty of shades. It may bo a scarf of precious old lace drawn rather close about n corsage cut low , that Is , after the court model , on the shoulders and knot ting ' In , a soft bow on . { he .bust , .or It can be'a' Stretch of Liberty silk , drawn .up and fastened on the 'left "shoulder with Jeweled pins. Women .vlio' possess pretty sloping shoulders love towear small three-car * Bcrc4 bt | , .drawn ruths clojo and the ends knotted , small at the waist line , while one of gonprouV'proporllons ' prefers the fichu that floats In front , long and free from the shoulder line. "As a matter of fact , by a discreet use of the fichu n woman can gl\e her figure Just what lines and proportions she needs. By drawing 'it taut or letting It fall full , she can conceal or reveal all she pleases , and for this reason-the fichu frontla unfailingly noted on' , nlnor out , otf ten of the autumn models In4 cloth. The fronts of such suits ere for a slender .woman made full on the shoulder , or' under { he arm they , cross. In. euave llho.and fold over the bust , high up or low down , In order to reveal beneath the chin a rounded or pointed , vest of some eoft contrasting goods. Occasionally one side of this drapery passes down to the left' hip and from there lets fall. a. long and a abort ash end upon the aklrt. The Crntat Fichu. ' Equally as pleasing Is the tiny cravat fichu that Is adopted with the "wonojerfu.1 , end hitherto unseen striped cloths for winter and autumn wear. ' Fancy , If you can , a ' wine red cloth , finely barred In black satin stripes. "The waist of this buttons up well over the bust , but springs open on the chcit In two small rev era. They disclose an Inner vest. of Ducked silk , a high collar of white silk tops.'oftthe basquebub 'tec take 'awjty from any severity of llnei a kerchief of bls- cult-colpred lace , edging a wisp of similarly colored slllc lawn , pastes about the heck , under the rovers and knots artistically on tie ) bust , Jesting a couple" of lace ends .pf uneven lengths fair eten below the waist line . 'On n certain- percentage of cloth suits flat-shapc"d nchu ° ple"ces""wlll"f61d down f roin" the shoulder. These will bo overlaid with lace on white satin , be made wholly of embroidered silk , or of. the plain cloth it- eelf bordered with a alk ( ( fringe. One endi carried- far down and low , under the. arm will' faStc'ri there w'lth three largo 'fine but tons and tha V-shaped space they leava open under the chin will bq , ornamented In divers ways. . * ' > Lace * Are Connpleuou * . 'Once ' launched on autumn topics it Is es sential togive some- recognition of the laces that on vests and the fichus of day gowns , end in the trimming of evening costumes , will bo more than over conspicuous for the n xt six months. To begin at the be ginning , biscuit tint is' the choice "for the approaching season if new lace is worn. This is a soft , rosy cream tone that har monizes dellolously with all the latest gas light colors. There is also old lace color , but this so often degenerates Into a tone of dirty j tea bro'wnHhat the \flrst' \ mentioned" dye1 Is' preferred. ' ' f Jit spite of the charms of the ever lovely point de Venice , a species of pretty cut out point is guaranteed to achieve a fine place for Itself and the waved antique Valenciennes and Valenciennes Incrustation tangoing to predominate on .tho toilets for debutantes. There Is also a new applique. l c called ruby point , ' which in 'reality Is1 a palo ivory ecru Intorio. . t Rubyi pvoldt rs > worked In as heavy pattern qs Russian or Renaissance laco,5 whlto | > an attractive 'but' rather startling variety of weave , la. a cbarsa bla k. ecru or biscuit colored ric't. adornea In'ai Persian pattern , carried out exclusively Irf [ dull gold and silver thread. Orient veiling ona hears It nominated , and for a While It is sure * f o maintain > a right royal ppijjtlon , for only .a little his bten 1m- p Vted , and that commands 'a pflco exclusive to 'all ' of moderate means. Oriental veiling la easily imitated In cheap net and gilt , and i.once it will fall , when vulgarized , from Itjr-hlgh estate.1" ] r > Fall Feather * . \ThoEe who are reading signs and wonden on\thc new horizon of fashion will not fall' ta observe a few first millinery Indications , of ' * degree of .importance. For Instance , It does not take great perspicacity to decide that feathers will get a big share of fall paironage. Whether complete stuffed fowls rd going to bo sacrificed again to feminine vanity one dares not yet Bay , but fans of stiff , feathers w ill adorn the big new toquei. This denotes that it is the spreading tall , not the wing * > of tbo bird , 'that is wanted h < T plumage , bandsomely marked with eyes an < T spots , Is the most desired. 'As never before In' point of perfect tint and firm or rigged shape are they , making autumn leaves for adorning the first bats of IMPERIAL HAIR REGENERATOR \o { matter what th6 color op j condition of < .your HAIR ( ' ' ' treaky , . . 'BEACHED or' GRAY it can bo made beau- ' titiil , glossy and natural by ono appll cation of THE IMPERIAL HAIR KE- OKN.iRAT.OR , It is a'ean ' , odorless lasting , does not contain an atom of pol sonous matter. Baths do not affect it neither does curling nor crimping. ' In coraparablo ( or the HEARD on aucoun' ' oflts tlomilinoHS'and durability. Sovot colors cover all shade * , Prlco , * 1.5 ( and $3.00. Solo Manufacturers and Patentees , Imperial Chemical M'f'R Co , S92 Fifth Ave N. Y. For Rule IV Omaha by Rlchardsoi Drug Co. , Hhtrninn & McConnell , 161 JLHxJBe Hi. ApplleJ by all hair dresser * the season , made ot satin straw and chenille. Nothing could be more promising than the Indications for the dcml-scason hat , and the milliners who can gauge their patrons' np- pcttto for pretty surprises are garnishing round brown and red and rusty green mixed hats with ribbon and tufts of golden rod. A green September hat made for one who will go coaching In the Berkshire hills was ot a shade of chenille and straw known as hay green. Its crown stood an Inch and a fourth high and the two-Inch wide brim sloped down from It. All about the crown ran a.full girdle of Michaelmas daisies with maploleaVcs _ , half turned from a dull green Into scarlet. There Is a promise that later on , when headgear becomes , a , really serious consider ation with' every , woman , popular taste will be invited towhet its appetite for novelty blue silk violets , set on In n double row , A soft knot of these blossoms held the fichu in pJr.co on the shoulder and the wearer of the pretty drapery clasped her 'neck ' with a dog collar ot corals and blue crystal Venetian beads , The fichu for a stouter woman and for wear indoors is ghen in another figure. This big kerchief falls over the shoulders of a tea jacket made of white Madeira em broidery over rose color. Of the simplest white Brussels net the fichu Itself Is made and trilled with net. Along the frill run .three rows of black velvet bebe ribbon and three rosettes ot this ribbon 'fasten the fichu on either side to the jacket. A black figured grenadine , made o\cr whlto silk linings , Is the material of the third model , Hero the close drawn kerchief Is of white Limousine silk edged with black n a hat material known-as camel's hair elt. The specimens seen so far show a retty quality of rather rough surfaced felt , n the appropriate dull colors , having a long , livery wool nap springing from It. In aria , having done long ago with the wide > at and the forward pitch of the brim , hey are placing small capotes very far on he back of the head. Whether we will ollow this initiative remains to be seen. Lnte Summer Vagarlea. Tor full three weeks yet , In spite ol .utumn preparations , the light sheath ol ummer garments will not be shed and still nterestlng are some of the diversities In white clothes. Duck and serge skirts , far nstance , are wearing their pockets any where but on the hips and inside thefront widths. Two square catch-alls , with flap ! hat button down , arefrankly sewed on the rent part , of the skirt , within handy reach j I if the" weaver's right and left hands , and nt $ th se she puts 'her belongings easily nd comfortably. The promise of the tailors s ihat wool walking skirt * for autumn and winter shall be made with the same regard 'o convenience and that none of these iklrts shall have a gather , or a pleat tbo whole waist band around. A novel'pattern ft easy and graceful shape is promised and .hereby . a great thanksgiving goes up from the feminine heart. Aqother demonstration has been made In the hand-wrought shirt waist and a novel pattern has been evolved that we will carry right on Into the winter wardrobes. This atest manifestation Is tucked perpendicu larly from neck band to waist line. Jn groups ot small tucks , especially when the ' shirt is of silk , and not by a couple of Inches , do the fronts of the garment meet. They open to reveal a straight vest piece , of whatever In a contrasting goods or color you may elect to make It. A white silk shirt , or a black one for that matter , will open prettily upon a vest of pale green * or turquoise blue silk , or whlto tucked lawn. Instead of the shirt fronts lying wide open , on either edge , at Intervals ot three Inches , buttonholes are worked and by new link studs the front are held firm but open , at certain points of the vest. t Thus , has a new species of shirt waist given > rise to a new type of shirt stud and the makers of such ornaments are turning out , more or less widely linked , studs , net with moonstones In silver , opals , cat's eyes , and star sapphires. The cuffs ot these shirts are not contrarywlso held by link bub- tons , too , but the sleeves fall in slightly to wrist bands that are wide , soft and clasp the wrists closely. By three buttons sewed on to each band and three tlken loops the cuffs are made fast. Of course the six but tons required for this purpose are often pretty cabochon jewels with gold shanks. Illustration ! of Facliioni. The three most adaptable types of flchu to gowns that by a touch can be brought Into Una with tho.prevailing mode accom pany tbo text this week. One of these ker- -hicf draperies is especially designed for the furbishing up of an evening gown for.a youug woman. The model from which , the drawing was made displayed a close fitting , low-necked body ot blue peau-de-sole anc over the shoulder was flung a handkerchle of the palest lavender Liberty Ilk , edget with a deep flounce ot the same. All about the verge ot tta Bounce ran a thick ruck ol - . j wa egaM2i * . - - * lace , and a high black satin collar with lace ear tips completes the pretty demi- * season tolje t. M , . . , . _ . Simple school suits for young people .are not difficult to find at this 'moment ' 'when the tailors and dressmakers fon.boys'and < girls are as , busy as bees. ( See , , for example - . ample , the .five * young persons whose , wants are so thoroughly considered tin the group , . The 15-year-old girl wears a basket cloth suit of wood brown. The skirt Is'plalo ! the" waist has a tucked yoke with all. its if rent fullness caught In by 'a ' broad belt of dark red silk. Her zouave'Jackot Is edged with red leather appliques , stitched on , and a collar similarly trimmed turns over her red silk throat band. The second mlas .displays a kilted skirt of green French . 'cloth worn with a darker green pleated waist of corduroy. Over the corduroy pleats extend traceries of tan colored Bilk needlework and a wide tan eathcr belt clasps her waist. The sleeves ore ot cloth and high green cloth legging mtton over the laced shoes. Two studies'in small boys' coats and a cloth school suit , as shown'In the picture , can hardly fall to give ideas to the Inqulr- ng maternal mind. Both of the coats are ot whip-cord of winter weight and the suit In a finely striped winter tweed worn with a stout little grcca flannel Milrt. MAIIY UKAN , WIMIELMINA. The Ynnthfnl Snrrrcltw eon lo Come Into Her Inheritance , Queen Wllhclmlna of Holland , the simple , girlish figure on whom the roseate glow of budding womanhood has just begun to cnit Its strengthening rajs , Is about to assume the responsibilities of the throne. She at tains her legal majority 17 years on the 31st , and Is to bo enthroned September 8. The fortnight ot festivities that will attend the queen's Inauguration will rival the gala days of the czar's coronation save that effort will bo made to preclude the fatal results which attended that flushed and gorgeous ceremony. There Is a murmur of dissatis faction from the upper classes of Holland that so much of the program will bo given up to the entertainment of the masses , but the controlling ministerial policy has pointed that way , and the queen regent and her daughter have willingly followed. The Dutch government will exhaust Its ability In lavishing honor on Its young queen , and It has ordered home from Java all the jewels In the treasury that have been taken from the rajahs and native rulers ot that vast Island , In order to make tor her a crown , a scepter and an orb. Among them arc some of the most splendid jewels lnthe , world. Though the seclusion of the court has kept the > oung queen carefully guarded , nevcrtheles her youth and unostentatious ways have kept her very close to the hearts of ite Dutch people , and there Is scarielr a nation in Europe whoso loyalty Is mors , truly the result qf sincere personal affec- tlon for the monarchical head. Queen Wll- , helmlna has been trained to the duties of a typical Dutch housewife , ' and this knowrl- edge was gained In a little house , of her" own' , where she used to'pla'y and "in which she did all -of the housework herself. Her portrait In the national costume of a Dutch housewife , with a linen colf.ovar her bekd , ' * - ' I-J > . , SMART FICHUS. has alwarsb en a favorite among her pic- tures. ' , t t % ( | " The < iueen "receives a liberal allowance " from thfe state treasury , bilt aside from that "she Is a rich heiress1. King William I , who . was a great success commercially , amassed a big private fortune , and this was enlarged by hls successors. Besides , the bouse ot ' ' ' 'Prague''has always known how to invest its 1 money to good advantage. j. QueeU Wilhclmlna surely''has not'been neglected by , fortune. She has youth , good health , high spirits , great wealth and a con tented , easily governed people. She has several palaces and .country houses , and , although' they are not the most magnificent ! In Europe , they'are ' well endowed with ele gance and comfort. I The largest of these palaces Is the mas- elve Town Hall In Amsterdam , which was built In the sixteenth century , and presented In 1SOS to King Louis Bonaparte aa a royal > residence. Externally Its. appearance Is not palatial , but it Is sumptuously furnished and beautifully decorated. The great reception room is truly magnificent , with a roof 100 1 feet from the floor , walls of white marble and a generous array of splendid sculpture. The mural decorations of the two dining rooms and the tea rooms are elaborate. The paintings throughout the pAlncn arc by Dutch master * , and all thn decorations nro rich In color. In the royal npnrtments aud wnltlni ; rooms there ro heavy silk hang ings , sumptuous furniture ot thn Klrnt Km * plrc , delicate Italian nionnlc cabinet * , rich scr\lco of Sevres and beautiful statuary. The palace on the Hague Is small and unpreten tious , having been designed ai the residence of ouo of tha early Stadtholdcrs. It has com fortable , well furnished apartments for the loyal household and the walls nro lined with family portraits , but there are no spacious rooms for court ceremonies. The court , while not locking In dignity and distinction , Is conspicuous for simplicity. Because of this it was not difficult for the radical ministers to convince the qnccn re gent and the queen , that the ceremony of Inauguration , to take place on September G , would bo more advisable and practicable than that of a coronation In what Islrtu - ally a Dutch republic. There Is no ecclesi astical dignitary In Holland who is consid ered eligible to the office of bestowing the crown and anointing the queen. The queen could not receive the crown from the queen regent nor the prime minister. She could only crown herself , following the example of one or two European sovereigns who had no ecclesiastical dignitaries to fall back upon , and this would not bo a procedure either In harmony with Dutch precedents or the temper of the people. The coronation is consequently out of the question , and the republican ceremony of taking the oath of office has been substituted. The oath Is as follows : "I swear to thu Dutch people that I will observe and always maintain the con stitution. I swear that 1 will defend and guard with all my power the independence and the territory ot the empire , that I will protect public and private liberty and the rights of all my subjects , and that I will use every means confided In me by the law to foster and uphold the-national and indi vidual well being as a good queen should do. And may Oed help me. " tJOLK Fetching : Resign * ( or ( he Nencat Kind of Fancy Work. Now that the girls have assiduously pricked their fingers at making kltbags for the departed soldier boys , they are turning their attention to the needs of those at home , and almost every man fortunate enough to * be In the good graces of some fair lady is having made for him a golf belt. These are , Indeed , the very latest ibfngs that jdcllght the eye on the golf field. The golf belt has followed In the wake of the golf waistcoat that was worn a season ago and upon which it is an Improvement. It Is not so clumsy and still has all the Stjlo and cites the same touch of color to the costume that the waistcoats were de sirable for dolnc. To make them is very simple and done quickly , being the broadest kind of worsted work. The measurement of the waist for whom the belt is intended must first be taken. Then a zone is cut of the dimensions out of canvas , such as is generally used for filling in slippers In cross stitch' . Usually the zone Is fashioned w.th ) a point nt the top and bottom of the front only , although there is also a fancy for making two points at the top to one at the bottom of the belt. It Is cut to lag a little and fastens at the side. Afer the belt is properly shaped end cut it Is stamped crosswise with parallel lines , not quite half an Inch apart. A heavy Roman silk Is then taken and long stitches ore made from one of the'lines to the one opposite , working at right angles. to the stamping and BO that the canvas Is' * well covered , When < the.filling { n with silk is done , strips of , stiff paper bre cut to coven the Bilk , and are held In place while they are worked over with long stitches of double zephyr worsted in exactly the Bamermanner as the silk has been done. The working of the belt is then complete , exce'ptlng for what Is.called the cutting and fluffing. Wlti ) a sharp pair of scissors the lines of wo. i are cut through the middle from the to the bottom of the belt. The use of liic paper then becomes apparent , as It prc\cnts the scissors from going through Into the under layer of silk. The two halves of the worsted lines that 'are thrown , up together by the cutting are ruffed up by the points 'of the scissors upttl they form a compact , high ridge , while the silk appears on each sfde as a ground work. The finer the mesh of the canvas that Is 'used ' , In consistence with getting the worsted through , the mere body the ridge of worsted will have , and In consequence.will be the prettier. Two colors are always used for these belts , that of the silk 'being much lighter than the worsted. 'Red and .white make a beautiful belt , or maize yellow and brown. The belts have three whale bones stitched on the wrong' side ot the front to secure the points from rolling up , and they are lined throughout with silk to match ono of the shades that has been used. A cairngorm germ or nament fastens the belt at tho'slde , and adds the finishing touch In 'making it extremely odd and pretty. All true golfers are glad to boast the possession of micb a belt WELL POSTED ON POLITICS. Senator Platt'a Wife a Great Help to Her Adroit Husband. More than one prominent politician In New York state Is of the opinion that with out the help of his wife Senator Platt would never have reached bis present position as supreme dictator ot the republican politics | In New York state. Tall , of regal carriage , and with a patrician air , Mra. Platt looks the grande dame to perfection. Her luxu riant hair Is almost white , but no one would I for a moment say that Mrs. Platt is an old . woman. Her bright , clear eyes and pinky FREE ONB FREE TRIAL BOTTLE THIS OFFER ALMOST SURPASSES BELIEF , An External Tonic Applied to the Skin Beautifies It As by Magic. The Discovery OF the Age . A WOMAN WAS THE INVENTOR. Thousands have tried from time immem orial to discover some .efficacious remedy for wrinkles and other Imperfections of the complexion , but none had ytt suc ceeded until tbo Misses Dell , the now fam- oiia Complexion Specialists , of 78 Fifth tvenuo , Now York City , offered the pub lic their wonderful Complexion Tonic. The reason BO many failed to make this discovery before is plain , because they have not followed' > the right 'principle. Balms , Creams , ' Lotions , etc. , never have a tonlo effect upon the skin , hence the failures. The MiSEcs Bell's Complexion Tonic has a most exhilarating effect upon the cuticle , absorbing and carrying off all impurities which the blood by * Its natural action is constantly forcing to the suifaco of the kin. It is to the skin what a vitalizing ionic is to- the blood and nerves , a kind of new life that Immediately exhilarates and strengthens1 where\er applied. Its tonic effect Is felt almost Immediately , and It Bpeedlly banishes forever from the skin , trickles , pimples , blackheads , moth patches , wrinkles , ll\cr spots , roughness , olllness , eruptions and dlscoloratlons of any kind. In order that all may be benefited by their Great Discovery , the Missus Bell will , during the present mouth , gl\u to all call- THE MISSJSS B5LL , 78 Fifth Avc. , New York City. 1 The > 9IUsc 'U ll' Complexion Tonlo , Complexion Sonp , Skin Food and De I , pllo are for mmtc by all complexion soon , set such an Idea at rest. Mrs. Plait has' Just "reached the autumn stage of life , where her Influence and ac tivity are most felt. She has been a help mate to her distinguished husband for many years , and. In victory and defeat she has nevec faltcrpd or failed' to encourage him. It is said that she knows the politics of the state and nation thoroughly and has certain j unerring Instincts. Intuitions , or , better still , thttglt.of , BwlfU deductive reasoning , which ' leaps "ahe'ad.of : thp'lndhctlons ' of her hus ' band. : 'OnGvthing'ii& ' s re , the , senator has bever'bceh h'andicapped by his handsome spouse ' , but , on the contraryho _ has always fo'urid her equal Jn mental grasp and gener ous sympathy to any emergency. Her days are devoted to her husband and her grand children , and.while , she moves In society she wastes little time in fin de slecle frivolities. Like her husband , sheila fond of the drama and tho\-opera and is .often seen at the theater. ROYAL , WOML\ ; WHO SMOKE. A Rn lnn Eillct' ( nrtlei the Grand Uanicn of Europe. As unexpectedly as a "bolt from the blue" came the sad tidings , promulgated a few days ago In court circles at St. Petersburg , that the gentle and gracious tzarltza would 'beigre.atly obliged to the ladles ot her household If , for the future , they would forbear from smoking cigarettes in her pi esence. This unlooKed-for Intimation , reaching the Russian "dames ct demoiselles d'hon- nenr" from BO exalted a quarter , was un avoidably accepted by them as a command , and they ha\o summoned up courage to address a humble petition to her majesty , entreating her to re\oko a request 'that pracUcally Is a decree. In 'this ' prayerful document , " says the London Telegraph , they have ventured to remind Alexandra Feodor- ovna that ladles are permitted to smoke clpaictlos ut all the contlnintal courts ; that , among Jbe august female votaries of the narcotic ) icrb , born In the purple , arc the dowager tzarltza and her sister * tho'I'rln- cess Thyra , duchess of Cumberland , as well as "the Princess Henry of Prussia , born Princess Irene of Hesse and the Rhine , own Bister to the reining empress of all the Russlas. The petition also deferentially points out that the Austrian kalserln and queen of Hungary , Maria Christina , queen regent of Spain , "Carmen Sylva , " queen of Roumanla , and the queen ot Portugal , as well MB many grand duchesses , archduch- AUTUMN SCHOOL CLOTHES. ers nt their parlors one trial bottle of thett Complexion Tonlo absolutely free ; and 1 * order that those who cannot call or wha live an ay from New York may bo beno filed , they will send one bottle to any ml s dress , all charges prepaid , on the receipt ot 25 cents ( stamps or silver ) to cover cost ot packing and delivering. The price' ot thli wonderful tonic Is (1.00 per bottle , and this liberal offer should bo embraced by alt. ' The Misses Bell have Just published their new b&ok , "Secrets of Beauty. " This valuable work is free to all desiring It. The book treats exhaustively ot tbo Importance of a good complexion ; tells how a woman may acquire beauty and keep It. Special chapters on tbo cnro of the hair : how to have luxuriant giowth ; harmless methods of making the hair pr servo Its natural beauty and color , e\en to advanced age. Also Instructions how to banish superfluous hair from the face , neck and arms without Injury to the sKtn. This book will be mailed to any address on request. FREE Trial Bottles ot Wonderful Com plexion Tonic free at parlors , or 5 cents ( coct of packing and mailing ) to those at a distance. Corraspondence cordially solicited. Ad dress esses and princesses of the blood , are inveterate - veterato smokers. In this category , moreover , belonged though the Russian court ladles may not be aw arc of the fact flic lovely and In trepid former queen of Naples , Marie von Wlttclsbach , who took an active part In the defense of Oacta , wearing tbo undress uniform of one of her husband's crack In fantry regiments , and especially when under fire was rarely seen without a lighted cigar between her lips. Her younger sister , the countess of Tranl , was a no less habitual cigar smoker than she , and so was the countess ot Glrgentl , by birth an in fanta of Spain. As for the "society lead ers" and "grandes dames do par le mondo" In Russia , Germany , Austria-Hungary , Italy , Spain , and even In the realm of Britannia Grundy , their name la legion. In the Turkish harem smoking Is even more "de rlgeur" than in the eelamllk , for the wives and daughters of the well-to-do faithful have few recreations besides - inhaling haling the fumes of yellow "Jenldjie , " or "klrltschlllar , " and nibbling what , In tha states. Is gcncrlcally termed "swect- trUck , " a designation Impartially applied to "candy , " "pralines , " "foudus" and "rahat lalioum. " Mrs. Florence Cra\en , who Is , next to Miss Nightingale , the oldest trained nurse in England , cherishes among her decorations the Iron Cross , the order of merit presented by William I of Germany. The duchess of Aosta , daughter of the into Prince Jerome Napoleon , Is making dally balloon ascents at Arco , In the ( Austrian Tyrol , and Is such an enthusiast In'the sport that Bho pronounces it "the most suitable for high society. " Mrs. Flora Annie Steel , the English writer ot several serious and highly praised novels , has opened a new field for discussion by de claring , just as our soldier boys are return- Itag for a season of hero worship , that tha girl who marries for lo\o is by no means necessarily better than the girl who marries for money or position , .Mrs. Albert Bowker , for twenty-two years presldent'of ' the Woman's Board ot Missions , who died at her home In Massachusetts re cently , had two foreign buildings named after her Bowker hall In Bombay ; an American mission nchool with more than 100 pupils , and Bowker hall , one of the two large buildings of the American College for Girls in Constantinople. . ' Mine. Melba is a good oars woman and she loves no place in which to reveal her skill more than the upper reaches of the Thames. She Is well known by the rUcralde , both , aboyo and below Marlowe , and may almost any day bo seen skimming tbo water in her trim-built wherry. Sometimes , however , sha prefers a punt to a boat. Her headquarters are a pleasant houseboat moored just oft Marlowe. " " French novelist whose : "Gyp , tbo spicy , real name Is the Comtesso do Mart-en , Is a familiar figure In tbo Bols de Boulogne , wbero she Is often Been seated on her auto mobile. She seems to ride rather for plcss- uro than to see how fast she can go , and nobody can accuse her of making any at tempt ot costume , for she Is still known as the most eccentric dreiscr In Paris , clinging to alapaca and poke bonnets , , There are no slow coaches among the women of Las Cruces , N , M. They run the town. Tour years ago the Woman's Improve , ment society of Las Cruces was organized , with Mrs. Mary S. McFlo as president. Al though the town numbered 3,000 Inhabitants , there wasn't a bearso in the place. Tha first thing that the women did was to buy ono and let It for funerals at a moderate prlco. They didn't take any undue advan tage of their patrons , butall , the same tha bearso proved a paying Investment. They have bought ground for a public park , fenced It and planted trees and shrubbery and are now accumulating money to erect a town ball and public library building. When Queen Taltou , the wife ot the Negus Menelek , conqueror of the Italian troops In Abyssinia , arrives with her husband and dusky but brilliant escort in' Paris next month even the gay Parisian will no doubt marvel. "Queen Taltou Is no less Interest ing that her husband. When she appears In public she Is accompanied by many women , mounted on richly caparisoned f- mules , with bunncrs , umbrella bearers and ' other attendants , " says the Philadelphia Post. "Taltou's umbrella Is a bright red. She Is > ory stout , but withal her presence Is dignified. She Is remarkably well In formed-on current topics and is a charming conversationalist. Her letters are well writ ten and have a bright , natural style , sha docs not dress any more rJchly than her ladles'in waiting , but sno is. the very es sence of cleanliness. The empress believes ) thoroughly In court etiquette and no ona may gaze on her unless be has been formally presented to her , " Wichita , Kan. , has the distinction of bar ing as a citizen a dresumaker who VB a j