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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (May 30, 1897)
r " ' \ / T V O / . .rr 10 THE OMAHA DAILY B&B : SUNDAY , MAY 30 , 1897. . , , . . .J II IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. II IM.\CIIS. Jfhb I.nmiKliiK lllniiNf. Gnllrii Suck null AVIillo MiiNllii Ten Oimn . SrfNEW YORK. May 27. It Is the weather ht' the moment that rules our fnshlons and jpcpniaclc ! ! womankind to prefer muslin , linen , madraA , silk and gingham volantcs , ilTomlng gowns , bedroom blouses and flow ing wrappers to the smartest designs In costumes that ever made famous the name of Worth or Paquln. Nevertheless , that which to cool and easy , nnd now so much in demand , can still bo very pretty and very becomingly graceful , bo It only a calico combing jacket , as nit the model * phew , white flome of the muslin toilets strictly for bedroom wear me beautiful to a de cree. If the honest truth must ho told concern ing these "toilette * In times , " as the French women call them , n wrapper Is almost an unknown garment In the best-stocked ward robe. Feminine preference seems about ii . BLUE BUTCHERS' LINEN. ovpilly divided between the tea' gown proper , jji'ilch'can ) bo worn at almrot any hour at llpme , and the long and short blouses for lounging , napping and generaC wear In one's Vojry own room. These blouses , th it may bo 'Illp short or ankle long , bear no resemblance AJj/Uhc / dear , old-fashioned wrapper , and it ' 'cannot ' be disputed that they are easier to got Into nnd out of , roomier , and rather more practical altogether than the late lamented garment. The bedroom blouse Is a wise adaptation of a French Idea and you can simply maka one for your own special use out ot costly or Inexpensive materials , as your purse or your pleasure dictates. From flno'turkey red calico and a little ecru embroidery , from striped dimity and ina- chlno-mado Valenciennes lace , or from brown batiste , with quillings of narrow taffeta .ribbons , some ot the most becoming little smocks are fashioned ad the slightest outlay oCtlmo and money. vlJ " SPECIAL PETTICOATS. , , Thcso , sacks aio qut short , that Is , a little below thu hip line , button only to an Inch below tbo bust , and above all things must hot1 lib confined at the waist. Moro elegant ones are made of the sheerest Swiss imihlln , laidIn narrow tucks across the shoulders back and trent , treated with lace flounces fitut'lnsertlon , the scams put together with lipiijdlng , and the fragile neglige worn Is used 5r Hot , aa the owner pleases , over an under WoiWo ot rose taffeta silk. Pleats and Btr'eamorH of taffeta ribbon add to the gayety ot these delicate garments , \\litch are worn with a smart silk petticoat. Very luxurious -women have special pettl- co'attf. to wear with theJr blouses , jupcs of lyjilti muslin frilled with lace , or crisp cold - & $ d silk ones , with oversklrts of bcantlly o qoidlon plaited muslin ; none of the.so petti coats fall lower than the ankles , In order tlUt the w aror may not bo depilved ot a sfsfht of her satin-clad high-heeled feet. 5 > ( im soft llnuutal and rainbow dyed Hong- JV ( > U' H'"c ' blouses are shown hanging In full SnVordloa plaits from tbo shoulder , the bag- riuK sleeves caught In on the Inside of the elbow with tiny sold link studs , and instrad of ptuds or buttons down the front the artful nfnnufacturcrs fasten the blouso.wlth dear lUUo hooks and eyes of gold. -\h > VOLANTES. ijUit It the heart of weak woman goes out In/llil'j hot weather to tlio cool silk and mua- lin. short blouses , how much more enrnesly & > 6lio Inclined to yearn over the long onci ca i-d volanles , with their well-opened necks , Thblr wide elbow sleeves and their long float- .Tirp skirts , all ot the .sheerest dotted muslin , Iliero Is truly no higher note of elegance flavthu matter of lounging robes to be touched lu dotted swUa. The dots must b < ) II , however , a great deal of lace must bo i ] , and those for tbo latest liousseaus liavo 'l > 6.ws and knots and streamers of white taf- teln ribbon , sot on at every available point. With tliu dotted muslin long blou.o goes a flklrt of the t-amu material , decorated with X\XD lact > flounces at tht > foot and the back 'at. llio blonco , It fibould bo noted , U not 4 W lu a watteau plait. TliU device , though 'graceful enough , ailJi tro much weight for bill weather , and with none of these flawing garments U a corset worn. Thus there U hygiene and comfort , mingled with fash- .tbnablu iplcndore , for tbo long blouse , like XJiU short one , fust CM together only over the t > ( ist , and exceedingly lo > ely ones are made fnm ) the now brown , ruao and pale green Fivnch batistes woven with batln stripes In paler or brlgher thades. But bedroom case Li yet further added to hy the nuw and useful wraps worn when the process of the manicure and hair grooming must bo undertaken , Then the bloujc Is thrown aside and either a llttlo cape of naoonllon plaited crepe do china Is laid about -tlo | shoulder and falls just below the waist lint1 , cr Iho upper half of the body Is "shrouded In what looks vry like a toga of > 'hUo chirm silk , Thu ( aa lu a great aquaro soft Bilk , edged all about with lace , and , wrapped about the body , la so ar- .1 as to let two corners book on cither cjiquliler. Such a protection , In silk or Jlucn , Is not only need while the hair Is t.i > uilcJ , but when It Is washed , whllo It dries , and therefore It Is something more ( | vpi the extravagant wbu | > of women who ij-Vi afford to cater to every taste. One finds tliulii In the shops ready made , of flno whlto Jf > urt > Uh toweling , for genuine hard service , jtnst as on Investigating negligee wearlug apparel for trailers n score of delightful GuinKii's , to pack In a handbag or steamer triini ? ! are found , SUITED FOR HANDBAGS. First among the gcod things are wool grenadine short jackets. In white , rose and blue , for seasick Individuals to wear In their Lortlir , and for Invalids to put ou at ulcht. when voyaging , aa a protection against drafts that penetrate even to one's bed. These are cut blouse shape , too , but there In no tickling , tearing lace nnd bowknots. about them. The low cut neck and straight fronts na well as long elccvo ends , are bound flat with bright ribbon , and a pocket In one slilo holds the wearer's handkerchief. In ad dition to thrao are outing flannel and wool grenadine bedgowns , that slip over the cot ton or linen nlghtdrcos and still more allur ing heavy mixed silk and wool crcpo bath robes. The last mentioned are cut like those men wear , and are made of this rather ex pensive crepe because It Is the only material that folds Into the very smallest compass for packing , and jet Is nearly as warm as flannel. ' On board ship and on trains they are a Joy to womankind , for on making n way to the bath or dressing * room the long folds , girded at the waist by a ribbon , cover one fully , a hood draws up over towscled. hair , and Into pockets In the skirts can bo stowed BURP case , comb and brush , sponges , etc. , that must be carried down the car aisle otherwise awkwardly In one's bands. 13lit the virtue of this now bathrobe Is not fully demonstrated until 11 Is folded Into a parcel about one-third the slzo of an ordinary flan nel wrapper , and so entitles the owner to double tbo usual space lu her handbag. MUSLIN TEA GOWNS. If the term full-dress negligee Is possible , then the newest and bcautltulcst , of the Ua gowns answer that description. Whether they are all ot swtss muslin and lace , or of silk , glorified with jeweled embroidery , It U not too much to say that they quite outrival any of the summer gowna jet seen In the elaborateness of their design nnd glories ot their decoration. The whlto swiss tea gown has come and conquered every woman who Is at home to anjbody after 3 o'clock of a hot afternoon. She wears It cut out In a small square at the throat , training a llttlo lchlnd ) , and depending for decoration wholly on flounces of muslin and on edgings of lace , real Valenciennes It she can atiord It , very narrow , and whipped on to miles of wide and narrow milling. The smartest of smart muslin tea gowns sent to a modish Inhabitant of Newport was whlto over whlto muslin petticoats , but tbo three deep flounces at the foot , with head ings and the narrow ones on Iho body , that were set on to simulate a milled bolero , wore edged with black Valenciennes just one- fourth of an Inch wide. At every nook and corner were sot bows that looked like small chr > oanthoniums , made of the black , nar rowest French taffeta ribbon , and a tiny cap with black bows went wllh It. Thee o ner of the gown was not In mourning , but she follows the prevailing notion that by touching whlto with bl.xck an alr-of daintier coolness Is secured. Though a most crushable - able ephemeral creation , this cost a matter of $7G , whllo some of those decorated with wider white lace como al a larger figure. The explanation of their makers Is that the use of real lace enhances the price , though just as charming a suit could be had , using Imitation lace , at a fourth of the price mentioned. Some of these tea gowns are worn over slips of white taffeta silk and some of them have really lodg trains and the slceveq to the elbow always , or 'In ' many cases sleeves are lacking entirely , the arm holes being filled In with straight outstaud- tng muslin ruflles , like embryo \vlnfrn. From the costly simplicity of muslin to the frankly displayed elegances of embroidered tea robes , tha women at this moment make easy transition and for anything like an afternoon . function , at home , an nlindst royally beautiful tea gown la , considered , ln perfect order. From watteau draperies the tendency Is markedly .toward Greek grae- fulncss in disposing folds , and for this rea son crepe do chine Is a goods in great favor. A sketch given shows how the draperies are bestowed in , strictly classical fashion , with modern liberties In decointlnn. Hero Is whlto crepe with a trained under rope and a pcplus falling over that. Its edges every where trimmed with a border of gold skele ton embroidery on a foundation of chiffon. Upon the bust falls a Greek pla&tron ot white silk , heavily worked In gold sequins , thread and llttlo turquolbe , while a gold and tur quoise glrdlo gathers In the gowns full ness fi little at the waist lino. Juat as splendid in effect Is a mourning tea gown , made for Mrs , . Havemcyer , of black crepe and trimmed about the edges of the Greek overdress' , on the bust and at the waist line , with dull jet nnd Imitation ash and white pearls , for these last como undnr the hpad of mourning gems. From Paris have come along with these Greek gowns an odd combination of the Greek and empire fashions. That Is , over an under- dress cut bhort-walsted or exactly after the model of gowns worn by the Empress Josephine a pcplus Is laid. The edges of tba peplua and the front of the empire robe are richly embroidered In sequins , false stones and bullion thread , and the arms aio bare , while the neck IB opened square and t rather low in front only. Then , to top off this combination , a Mme. de Stael turban Is assumed , all ot whlto tulle , with a ( coquet tish knot of roses or tinted ostrich tips to ono side. NINA FITCH. UUATUICI3 IIAUIIAIIK.V AT IIOMIJ. HIT Mctlinila of AVurk , Her IilcnlN mill Her AoeoiniillNliiiioiilN. Partly by choice , and partly on account of health , Miss Beatrice Harraden Is a bird of passage , and I was fortunate to find her lit her parental homo at Hampatead In the brief Interval between her return from Bournemouth , where- she had been wintering MISS HARRADAN'S UVTEST PHOTO GRAPH. amongit the pines , and her departure for Lucerne , where she na hoping to complete the recovery of her health , which , alas ! has frustrated ta many of her literary plans during the last few years. Not a word of repining does one hear from Mi i Harraden on this account ; she accepts It In a beautiful spirit of resignation , and some-times saj ; "It is folly to roplno at God for what U , after all , principally my own fault. If I had not so tliouRhtlcctily overworked my brain In my college days , I should not be Buffering now. " A little longer spell of complete rest , and Mlsrt Harraden will doubtless bo at her desk again , fresh as ever. As this is the first interview which has appeared with the author of "Ships That 1'ass In the Night , " I must , In the Interest of readers , transgress a llttlo against Mlaa Harrndcu'a dislike of publicity on matters purely personal. She Is slight and dark , with a dreamy , thoughtful expreu.lon , and Indicates , by every word , look and gesture , that gho abUon conventionalities , eoclety manners and loves perfect freedom to bo herself. Her home la on tbo breezy heights nccr Hampstead heath , and there Is a delight fully quaint , old-faebloned style about the house and garden , and Indication every where that the rooms are meant for use and comfort , not aa receptacles for' orna ments. Musical Instruments abound In the drawing room , for tbo tvcolo family are musical. Miss Kthel Harraden U well known as a musical composer , and MUa Harradeu U herself an accomplished player upon the violoncello. A younger ulster , Miss Gertrude , has a hobby for making pottery , and has devoted much t'mo to the study of old brasses. Several brothers make up a family which Is distinctly original and clever , and which owes much ot UK accom plishments to the lenient and wise parental couttol , which has given to each member freedom to follow out his different tastes and Inclinations. When I asked Miss Harraden whether she had early literary aspirations , she replied that she alwnjs knew-from her childhood that she wanted to write , but the demands of class study gave llttlo opportunity for her to practice original composition. AtUr taking her degree , however , she set tosoik upon stories , \\hlch slio sent to Hlackwood's magazine. Mr. niackwood evidently was quick to recognize that the making ot a novelist was In her , for although he re turned her first efforts , ho did so with a kind letter ot encouragement , In which he advised Miss Harraden to continue writing until she did something which bo could accept. At last the day of triumph came , when her first published story , "Tho Um brella Mender , " appeared In Hlackwood's boueo In ono oi cfije eastern clttea , thereby Informing the public'that ' the occupant of th house U ready. , for a smill 'oo , to secure Just the house flealred. Anyone who hn . , , iinJorfiono the poslttvo misery ot hous iEhunllnB' will hall -with joy the advent x > f ttxii now occupation. Hsr charge Iff' ftrrom the applicant , who describes the louatttm and kind ot house de sired , amount at r > nt to bo paid , and all the detail. Whun'nhe ' has secured a house that corresponds wfth the description given , a notice Is sentlto Ho applicant , locating the bouse. oil t She also recclVt a fee or commlfslon from the owner or fffibftU When Interviewed on the subject of hcrlistrango occupation Flo enld : "Whllo following a weary quest for a habitation for mjficlf I would see just what 1 wanted , ljut none would bo on my list , nud tbo thought came , 'what a relief It would be to have some ono do my house hunting. ' One morning I awcko to nnd mysiSlf pcunl- Icrn , with a family to support , and , when racking my brain for a way to earn a living , the thought relumed. I visited the rual t-s- tate arjents , asking what they would give mete to find tenants for their houses. Satisfactory arrangements were soon made. I then began to study houses , streets , and , In fact , the entire city , aud , being n keen observer of human nature , I was soco able to fit houses to people , and often to flt people to houses. Of course , It requires tact. In , less th.m a year my Income was stifllclcnt for all our wantt\ and at the present tlmo am entirely Independent , and have quite a bank account. My health Is better than It has over been , owing to the outdoor exercise. " This Is the testimony of the woman herself. Why not try It , you poor , sickly creatures , who are housed up all day , sewing or wait ing on cMlomers , or working In the close BIUSLIN PRESSING SACK ; AND FIGURE D SILK COMBING GOWN. magazine. Other short stories followed , and after a while Miss Harraden's first book. I "Things that Take a Time , " was published by Messrs. UlacUwood , A period of Ill- health followed , and upon recovery the author produced that strangely sad yet withal deeply fascinating book upon which her fame at present rests , "Ships That Pass In the Night. " Strangely enough. Miss Harraden's kind friend and counselor , Mr. Dlackwood , rejected the manuscript ot this book , not , however , because he did not recognize the power of the story , but bc- cauho he thought It too sad to please the public taste. Finally Miss Harradeu dis posed of the copyright of her famous story to Messrs. Laurence & Dullen for a mere trllle glad. Indeed , to got It published at any price. The success was Instantaneous , and the author was overwhelmed by letters of appreciation from all sorts and conditions of people. They came from lonely Indian stations , the backwoods of America , as v. ell us from the cities of the continent , and although the dollars arising from the large ualcs did not come to Miss Har- radcn , she saya that she feels compensated by the many Interesting friendships which the book has brought her In her own and other lam's , one of the most Interesting be ing 'with a Dutch professor In Amsterdam. The book has been translated Into French , German , Hungarian , Danish , Italian and Finnish. Ml&s Harraden Is a very slow and careful writer , and rarely alters cvea a word In her manuscripts after they are once written. Morning Is her favorite time for work , but bhu will often sit with the paper before her for a couple of hours and not write more than a line ; at other times Ideas coma more rapidly , She Is over-anxious and eager to produce the best of which she Is capable , and fastidious over every word. It Is prob ably the high state of mental tension SI which she works which Is perpetually over taxing her bodily strength and leading to breakdowns lu health. I was much Inter ested In seeing' the original manuscript of "Ships That Pass In the Night , " which Miss Harradcm has bad bound together. Thewrit - ting Is small , but legible , the alternations very slight , and there la not a single blot or "fimudga" throughout the clcsely written pages a matter upon which the author prides herself , , Apart from writing , which has ever been her gicat delight. Miss Harraden Is devoted to the study of moral philosophy and to the reading of Introspective , poetry , which appeals peculiarly to her own deep nature , over dwelling on the problems of life and of character. Then there la her beloved 'cello to while uwuy the hours not devoted to study. "Miss Harraacn Is essentially piogrcsulve In her Ideab. A distinguished student herself , she Is naturally a strong advocate ) for ( he higher education of women and for equality of the sexes In the matter of university degrees , as in all the profes sional and Industrial walks of life. She sees no barrier In hex for a woman who de sires to carve her nay In life but what energy and perseverance will surmount , and she Is a pronounced suffragist , looking capcrly forward to the day when women will bo us free tu exercise the rights of citizenship an men. The writings of Shelley and of Ibsen , with their note of freedom for woman and due recognition ot her true place In the economy of nature , appeal strongly to Miss Harraden , the keynote of . whose nature Is , as wo have .before said , ' a love of freedom and u hatred of tbo uu- ' meaning and useless conventlonalltlej of so ciety , She loves the Bohemian life , with Its greater opportunity for development of original , character. During the last year or two Mlia Ifar- radeu haa found In southern California a | health resort exactly nulled to her tastes ; but It Is a mlitako to suppose , aa has been ofteu done , that her permanent homo Is there. SARAH TOOLEY. A. I'llOPESHION POU WOMEN. New , Novel nnd Uueful u Well an I'rolKuUlv. "Mrs. M. L. Johnson , House Hunter , " Is the uniqueelgn seen on aa unsesuinlug offices and earning only a mere pittance ? Remember , ther'e Is life In the pure air. i COI.OMAL , WtiDOIN'GS. Quaint Fcn iiruH of MnrrliiRc Ccrc- iiionlc.H In the Knrly DIIJH. Until this century the grotesque belief ob tained both In England and In the colonies that If a widow were married to a second husband while she was clothed only In a shift her now mate would never have to pay any debta of her contracting nor of her first husband. Such marriages were certainly common In Now England and Pennsylvania , and probably In tbo southern colonies , says the Chicago Record , and by their frequency and their being formally recorded by the magistrates evidently were regarded legally binding as to tbo previous deb la of the widow-bride. Many such marriages rook place in Ver mont. Widow Lovejoy of Westminster , Vt. , wedded Asa Averlll. Sbo was married In her shift , hidden b'chlnd a curtain in a chim ney recess. In Newfano , Vt. , In 17S9 , Major Moses Joy married. Widow Hannah Ward. The bride , with no clothing on , was bidden In a closet. She thrust her band out through * V &fJhWl' ' V TriWKjfiS : WHITECRKPE DB CHINE. a lozenge-shaped hole cut In tbo door and the marriage ceremony < waa thus performed , whllo her response Issued from tbo closet. The gallant bridegroom had previously de- pcslted In the closet a coatumo of bridal finery , and after the ceremony the bride donned this new attire and appeared to re- celvu the. congratulations of everyone , ex cept , possibly , tbo flrst husband's creditors. Another brldo , married lu her shift from a high window , noon drcssud In now wedding garments and descended a ladder to her waiting bridegroom. From the record of the return of marriages to the court of sessions of Lincoln county , Maine , I take this affidavit : "This la to certify that John Gatcbell and Sarah Cloutman , both Inhabiting on Kenne- bcc river , a llttlo below Fort Halifax , and out of the bounds' of-any town , but within the county of Lincoln , were first published as the law directs , at the said court aud there married ; said Cloutman , being In debt , was desirous of being married with no more clothes on tbku her shift , which was granted , and they married each other on the 21 t day ot November. A. D. , 17S7. "Attest ; I WILLIAM LITHGOW , "Justice of Pcaco. " WHAT THH RECORDS SHOW. In some localities It was specified that the brldo must be married "In her smock , with 'Vo headgear on , " and In others the exceedingly difficult condition was added that the ceremony should take place on the public highway. Really , It would seem that any very desirable mate would rather have paid the widow-bride's debta than let her go through that mortifying ordeal. But all men are not generous , or were not In colonial days , nor were they oversensitive , so Instances of such marrhiRes are far from rare. Wo can pity poor Widow llrodley and wonder what kind of a second husband she could bo taking when wo find that on a bitter night In February , 1774 , In the bleak winds of a town on the Maine coast , clad only In a shift , she met her bride groom at a point In the road half-way be tween her homo nnd his. The pitying min ister throw his coat over her shivering form , and possibly thus saved her life. In the oldest book of registration ol births , deaths and marriages , now In the cleik'a oinco at South Kingston , R. I. , Is this lecord : "Tromas Culvcrwcll was Joyned In mnr- rlago to Abgall his wife tbo 22 Feb. 1719-20. Ho took her In marrlago after she bad gone four times across the highway In only her shift and hnlr-laco and no other clothing. Joyned together In marriage by me. "GEORGE HAZARD , Justice. " In Hopklnton , In 1780 , David Lewis mar ried Mrs. Jemima Hill at midnight , where four roads meet , she dressed only In her shift , to avoid the payment ot the deceased Hill's debts , In Richmond , R. I. , In 1790 , Thomas Kenyan'married In the evening twi light on the public highway Widow Sarah Collins , dressed In n long shift covering her feet. feet.In In the neighboring town of Westerly the same custom and belief obtained. Hero is an entry in the town records : "To All People Whom It May Concern This certifies that Nathanell Bundy of West erly took ye widow Mary Parmentor of said town on yo highway with no other clothing but shifting or smock on yo evening of yo 20th day of April , 1724 , nnd was joynod to gether in the honorable state of matrimony in ye presence of "John Corey , and wasjoyncd together "George , as above mentioned per "Mercy Hill , mo. "Peter Crandall , JOHN SANDERS. "Mary Crandall. Justice. " I have a record of a "shift marrlago" as late as the year 1836 , In the town of Easton , Mass , QUAINT CUSTOMS. It wan a tradition in England that a felon sentenced o death could be rescued from his fata If any woman would offer herself as a wlfo to him and marry him from the gallows. It Is eald . .hat such marriages took place , and It can bo seen that in those dajvi of death sentences for political strife- there was much opportunity for romance and exhibi tion of Bcntlment. A curious variation of this custom Is told by a famous negro , Gus- tavus Vasja , In his memoirs. Me states that ho saw In New York , In the year 1784 , a malefactor who was condemned to death and standing on the gallows about to undergo his sentence. Ho was reprieved and liberated through his marriage on the gallows to a woman who was clad only In her shift. I hove not , In reading the memoirs of Vasoa , been Impressed with their truthfulness , and I think his titory of the gallows mairiage will bear Investigation and corroboratlon. The sport of stealing "Mlaticss Brldo , " a custom derived from the old savage brigade of many peoples , occurlng flret In actual fact , then In symbolic customs , obtained In Con necticut until a .century ago. If the bride were left for a moment unguarded a party of , young men seized her , carried her to a baddlcd and plllloned horse and bore her off to the nearest tavern , when she was redeemed by the groom furnishing a gay supper to the revelers , Madam Knights tells that some times the groom deserted the wedding party , was pursued and brought back to the bride a moat ungallant proceeding , If the marriage were ono which would to day bo termed "in society , " and therfore of note In the community , a sermon applicable to the evjnt was often preached. The bride was usually permitted to chose the text. The wife of Asa Greene chose from II Chronicles , 14 : "And Asa did that which was good and right In the eyes of the Lord. " Another bride selected from Proverbs : "Her husband Is known In the gates when be altteth among the elders of the land. " A Now England minister. In honor of hla own woddlng and hla own brunette bride , preached ftom the text , "I am black but comely , " etc. OLD TIME MARRIAGES. Many a shadowy outline of the picture of an old-tlmo marrlago bag come down to us through the Journals and Interleaved al- manoea which some of tlio old New England parsons kept so religiously. We read 1n the diary of Rev , Thomas Smith of Folmouth , Mu. , under a date just prevloua to tha revo lution , of ono happy couple coming to the parsonage acrces the wintry fields for many miles on mow shoes ; others came by boat , the sturdy husband-elect rowing with his brldo many miles along tbo shore or paddling in a canoe. The favorite means of approach was on horseback , on caddie and pillion. These journals give ua alio amusing rccorda of tbo wedding fees received by the clergy men , not only In the country , but In towu. All kinds of household etorea , bags ot corn , bcana aud peas , sides of beef and bam , strings of sausages , a "ctore pli" these borne nlio ou horseback to the wedding. One Vermont couple , poor but loving and deter mined , came to town In midwinter la a high- backed pung. or JlelEb.with half a dozea band-made birch , broomi , & box of elder brandy , K bushel of beechnut ! , a box of aau- sngcs anl aomo mink akin * The mlnlito could thocflo from these hli fee. Ho took the broom * . The happy groom throw Into the bargain a pock of beechnuts. The newly wedded pair then drove tor the country stor and changed or paid out all the other com modltlcs for a thin c . bmero near ! for tha bride , whoso scanty clothing had already excited the sympathy of the minister's wife There Is a very touching traditional tate ot ono colonial brldo. As POOII as the mar rlago ceremony was over the young pair started on horseback to rldo to the now libtno , H log hut In an outlying township. A gay party roda with them for some miles to bid them happy godspeed , but at last they journeyed alone. As they dismounted at tha door of Iho new homo a band of savage Irt dlmis tell upcn them , bore oft the husband securely bound In thongs , and knocked the wlfo ou tbo head as too hampering and use less n captive. But she was not dead , a her husband believed , and after Incrcdlblo sufferings was rescued and carried to he old homo. Years of grief finally wore away and she died. As n sad llttlo group o friends bore her to the grave there rode Into the village a bronzed man , halt In Indlai dress. U was the captive husband , returnci afler years ot wandering In tlmo to take oiu last look at the beloved face ho had plcturci still In death for many years. A I.MUAX rvmv AVOJIAN. How She WIIH Drt-NMOil ltr HiiMlifliii In Worth $ Ur > OOon. The newest ot new women , and yet ono ol the oldest , It the aborigines may bo clamct as "old , " was recently sjen on the streets ot St. Louis , saya the St. Louis Globe-Demo crat. She was a splendid specimen ol womanhood , strikingly haudsomo and su perbly proportioned , nnd was dressed In bloomcm , although they differed In style and cut from any \\orn by the St , Louts blcyclo girls. She was an Indian woman , the full- blooded daughter ot n chief of the Sioux tribe , ono of the fiercest and most blood thirsty bands which ever troubled the set tlers of the west , and her dress was one of the most peculiar ever eecn on tbo etrcets of a great city. A dark hat of modern style halt hid a qimntly ot raven-black hair on her splendid head and a long ulster of the most recent fashion enveloped her , outlining her flno figure to advantage. But below thta there flapped out ns shn 'walked ' the most remarkable part of her dress , and that which attracted the most attention her liloomers. They were cut long and straight , Ilko men's trousers , and were small at the bottom , eo that they were rather close about the ankles. These bloomcra were of black silk , and the Inner and outer seams were decorated with four or flvo lows of bcada of vailouscolors and worked In fanciful dralgng. Flowers , snakes aud animals run up and dowiu the side and made the bloom ers , or trousers , a thing to attract atten tion anywhere , and especially on flo hand some a woman. Her complexion was olive , Ilko that of a Spanish girl , and clear ; her cheeks were rosy and her voice low , but her eyes wore dark nnd piercing and ecemed to look through one. But with all her fan ciful dress and her name ot Talacouqua she Is the wlfo ot one of the richest mer chants of the great southwest and 1 on bcr way to Europe , where she 'Will ' doubtless be received by royalty. In direct contrast to this woman was ono of her companions. Taller than she , with hair as light as hers was dark and light blue eyes , his ruddy , sunbuint face was partially shaded by the broad-brimmed oom- brcro , which was tipped to ono sldo on lib head. As ho walked there was a swing to his gait that told of the easy gallop of the mustang and everything In his manner bespoke - spoke the cowboy. His chlrt , which was ot expensive material , was made neglige fash ion and cut low at the nock , showing a pow erful neck , tanned by the exposure of many suns on the plain. His clothes , too , were of expensive material , but tbo cut was a trifle odd. Still , they gave ono the 'Impression that they were paid for and that the man who wore thorn had his own opinion as to how clothes should bo nvado for him , as he was the man to wear them. He walked along , frequently squirtlugr stream cf'ito- bacco juice- through his whlto teeth and stroking his long blond mustache. The man , Samuel 'Bronnau ' , Is worth $250,000 and is ono ot the most successful merchants In Tcxaa. Between this strangely assorted pair walked a youngster , auojt G years old and bis dress was as stylish as that of bis com panions was unconventional. A leather Tarn O'Shanter was placed jauntily on one side ot his crown of golden curia and ho wore a velvet coat of Fauutlcroy pattern. Ills llt tlo feet were Incased In swell patent leather boots , and above them , extending nearly to the hip , were leather leggings. Those were decorated somewhat after the manner of the bloomers which the woman beside him wore , but were not so noticeable because of the decoration , as thcro were only two rows of beads and they were dark In color. The llt tlo fellow carried a cane , which he swung to and fro like a Fifth avenue dude , and yet the Indian woman la his mother and ho is the heir to $250,000 and is going abroad to enjoy the advantages of forelg.i travel. KaMliloii iNolrn. Pretty parasols are made of silk patterned with peacock feathers. Gauze made of vegetable silk Is ono of the season's specialties employed largely la mll- /inory. Whlto gowns In any port of material will bo a.ulte as much worn as over , despite the craze for red , violet and blue. iA novel drcsj trimming seen on some of tbo light-colored cloth gowns Is the applica tion of black Chantilly /aco / flowers. Irish lace Is very popular for yokes and epaulette effects on foulard gowns , and Is used la edging and Insertion as well. Serpent skin la a new trimming for tailor- made gowns , and it Is employed for entire rovers ahd tiny bands on the cloth rovers. Fancy little bolero jackets are made of ecru linen , with a sailor collar across the back , and elaborately embroidered with gold tin cad. An astonishing sight Is the wearing of the DOTTED MUSLIN NEGLIGES * . silver-mounted rabbit's fuot , attached to the pure chain. It Is a fcaturo of the shirt waist period. Ruffs of chiffon lace and ribbon are very fashionable In Parts , and they are made high at tbo back , with long emla In front and a deep flounce of chiffon around the shoulders. Berthas and Marie Antoinette fichus of silk muslin with pi pa led frills of the same , ono falling partly over the other , are always useful in Imparting fresh , dainty effect tea a gown at small expense. Tbo craze for Vlctorlin souvenirs extends to the glovru and purses -In London. Glovca tiave buttons with the queen' * portrait on their surface , and pockolbooks are orna mented , with the rose , shamrock and thlstla. Green In endless shades li used on tum- uior toilets both for linings under tranupar- onU and for entlro toilets , foundations under short capes of chiffon , gllk mualln , grenadine , etc. , and In millinery the color is used to excess. Very many ol th new ihlrt waists lu NEVER DECEIVE THE SICK. This is the Motto of Professor M uny on. "Never deceive ( ho sick. A man who would commit such a moral crime would dcsorvo the severest punishment. " So \ says Prof. Munyon , the highest medical authority In the world. Munyon's Im- pioved System of Medicine Is founded upon scientific knowledge nnd common sense. Munyon hm n. separate specific ) for each disease. Mostly sold for " 3 con teat at druggists. Mrs. Nancy Johnson , Wichita. Kan. , saya : " Ono trial bottle of Munyon'a Rheumatism Cure gnvo me the greatest relief , after I had been Buffering1 wltli that disease for years. " If In doubt write to Prof. Munyon at Philadelphia , Pa. , and get medical advlco true. lawn , batiste , linen , clmmbray , etc. , are still nado with starched collars and cuffs , very pretty styles being formal of repped cottotm patterned with Oriental designs In beautiful colorings. The checkered , brocaded , striped and jarred sllk-and-wool materials Imported till * cason ore suitable for any ordinary occasion , and If tailor-made and stylishly trimmed , they form elegant church , visiting and car- rlaeo costumes. Very bewltchlm ; above young and piquant aces look the Victorian poke bonnets tied under the chin with strings of airy not or ; auze , the bonnets trimmed with ribbons , argu paste buckles and compact clusters ot flowers and foliage. Checked taflcta scorns to bo a favorlto 'abrlc In Paris , and many pretty dresses are made of these checks In various colors. Quo In palo gray and pink Is quito plain , with a plaited bolero front opening over a vest of pink gauze trimmed with yellow lace. The Marie Antoinette flchu Is meet favored , but all styles need careful adjustment , and the manner of arrangement d I ft era according to the form of the wearer , or should do BO. When the waist la short the flchu ends should come down well below the waist lino. It La said that Paris has a society for the aid of dressmakers , and M. Gaston Worth Is the secretary. The object la to assist dressmakers to tldo over the dull season , when so often they liavo no work at all. "Money Is lent them without Interest la case of Illness. Among the vanity ot vanities worn at the bud's belt this season Is a small square plato glass mirror , , set in a delicate frnmo of gold or ; stlvoj , often thick with jewels , at tached to the chatelaine among trophies of of all ports. Of course , It's for use as wall as ornament. Belts of plaid silk fastened with a metal buckle are popular with English women , and belts ot every sort are a particular feature of dress. Leather of various tints forms'a background for all sorta of metal work and fancy , jeweled designs. A green ono dotted over with turquoise Is especially good stylo. Etons and zouaves are worn over shirt waists of every description , from lace and silk to plain and fancy gingham. Very often the eton is black and the stock collar and neck bow match the jacket In color , giving a ton ing effect to the waist and modifying considerably Its severe outlines. I'Vinliitne NutuN. Miss H. H. Williams , a woman commis sioner , -who ta representing Jersey City at the Tcnneosco Centennial , Is an up-to-date lit erary woman. Mine. Altmul Is slnglngv.roost acceptably In London. She has completed arrangements to sing at the Handel festival at Crystal palace - ace Juno 11-18. Slgnora Amparo Orbe , who was a short tlmo ago the reigning belle of Havana , has been following her husband In dlsgulso dur ing the fortunes of war and bas been fiercely fighting the Insurgents. The countess von Linden has boon se lected by the University of Hallo as substi tute for Mr. J3 rand la , professor of zoology , during his leave of absence. The counters lias already aited as assistant to the pro fessor. Mrs. Crake , ono of the flvo surviving resi dents who were residing at Ratchet at the tlmo of the queen's accession , lias volun teered to erect a handsome cross In her vil lage aa a memorial of her majesty's reign. An Irish woman residing In Qreeco has given the queen of Italy a costly piece of lace , with the queen's crown embroidered ; n the center. The design was redrawn from : ho queen of Italy's orown by the countess of Qectlve. At a mooting In Philadelphia recently Mini Cummlngs of South Africa spoke of the schools founded by Andrew Murray for Iho Doers and for tbo descendants of the Huguenots nets , In which thorn are SOO pupils , On * 'HI ' nil rod have gone- out as missionaries. Uleanoro Duso has decided for the present to play almost exclusively In English. Sbo will play but once In French during her approaching preaching season In Paris. ' That will be when she will assist In securing funds to erect tbo monument to Alexander Dumas. It Is not generally known that the Baron ess Illracb gave $187,000 to tbo 'Ilazaar ' do Clmrito , to which BO many of the French nobility sacrificed their lives. In addition to her many noble worics of philanthropy Kho now bns a j-eprebeiilatlvo In Now York City paying out largo unm of money to as sist poor Jews when they first arrlvo from the old country. Mrn. Angelina P. Hall of Saratoga. N. Y. , las Inaugurated a method ot bestowing charity which will bo followed by hundred ! ot persons. She has given { 20,000 to tbo Judson Memorial church of New York , with ho proviso that the trustees pay her the In- ercst on that amount during her lifetime. rhuii Mrs. Hall has a regular Income and he church Is endowed to materialize at her de < tth. The baroneES Gabrlelle von Ehrenthal , vho recently received her degree of doctor ot medicine In Vienna , has held a medical crtldcatu for gome tlmo from the Unlver- Ity of Zurich. The lector of the Vienna university , In his address to the graduates , noted that this was tbo first tlmo In the nu. lain of the university that ( inch an Ifouor md been won by a woman. Ho further tatod that widening views regarding the air ecx would eventually benefit tbo whole f mankind , Airs. Emma Wakefleld enjoy * today thor r distinction of being the 11 rat and only olorod woman In the United States , If not n the world , to bo a regularly graduated nd oUlcIally recognized doctor of medicine , Sbo Is a daughter of an ox-senator of the old Louisiana regime and a graduata of bo medical department of the New Orleans Afro-American university. She pasted her xamlnatloni with high honors , and recently ecolved her diploma from the Louisiana State Hoard of Medical Examiners. She l nether Illustration ot the possibilities ot he colored people In our country , and da- ervea the congratulations of tbo whlto aa veil as tba African race , Before any olckneta comes a feeling ot general debility and loss ot vitality , lilood vitality , When , you feel weak ward oft Iseaee by strengthening your blood. Till Anevinlc Pink la composed largely of con- collated beef 'blood , and la the er at blood builder. *