Nebraska Newspapers

    r " ' \ / T V O / . .rr
10 THE OMAHA DAILY B&B : SUNDAY , MAY 30 , 1897.
. , , . .
.J
II IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. II
IM.\CIIS.
Jfhb I.nmiKliiK lllniiNf. Gnllrii Suck null
AVIillo MiiNllii Ten Oimn .
SrfNEW YORK. May 27. It Is the weather
ht' the moment that rules our fnshlons and
jpcpniaclc ! ! womankind to prefer muslin ,
linen , madraA , silk and gingham volantcs ,
ilTomlng gowns , bedroom blouses and flow
ing wrappers to the smartest designs In
costumes that ever made famous the name
of Worth or Paquln. Nevertheless , that
which to cool and easy , nnd now so much
in demand , can still bo very pretty and very
becomingly graceful , bo It only a calico
combing jacket , as nit the model * phew ,
white flome of the muslin toilets strictly
for bedroom wear me beautiful to a de
cree.
If the honest truth must ho told concern
ing these "toilette * In times , " as the French
women call them , n wrapper Is almost an
unknown garment In the best-stocked ward
robe. Feminine preference seems about
ii .
BLUE BUTCHERS' LINEN.
ovpilly divided between the tea' gown proper ,
jji'ilch'can ) bo worn at almrot any hour at
llpme , and the long and short blouses for
lounging , napping and generaC wear In one's
Vojry own room. These blouses , th it may bo
'Illp short or ankle long , bear no resemblance
AJj/Uhc / dear , old-fashioned wrapper , and it
' 'cannot ' be disputed that they are easier to
got Into nnd out of , roomier , and rather
more practical altogether than the late
lamented garment. The bedroom blouse Is
a wise adaptation of a French Idea and you
can simply maka one for your own special
use out ot costly or Inexpensive materials ,
as your purse or your pleasure dictates.
From flno'turkey red calico and a little ecru
embroidery , from striped dimity and ina-
chlno-mado Valenciennes lace , or from brown
batiste , with quillings of narrow taffeta
.ribbons , some ot the most becoming little
smocks are fashioned ad the slightest outlay
oCtlmo and money.
vlJ " SPECIAL PETTICOATS.
, , Thcso , sacks aio qut short , that Is , a little
below thu hip line , button only to an Inch
below tbo bust , and above all things must
hot1 lib confined at the waist. Moro elegant
ones are made of the sheerest Swiss imihlln ,
laidIn narrow tucks across the shoulders
back and trent , treated with lace flounces
fitut'lnsertlon , the scams put together with
lipiijdlng , and the fragile neglige worn Is used
5r Hot , aa the owner pleases , over an under
WoiWo ot rose taffeta silk. Pleats and
Btr'eamorH of taffeta ribbon add to the gayety
ot these delicate garments , \\litch are worn
with a smart silk petticoat.
Very luxurious -women have special pettl-
co'attf. to wear with theJr blouses , jupcs of
lyjilti muslin frilled with lace , or crisp cold -
& $ d silk ones , with oversklrts of bcantlly
o qoidlon plaited muslin ; none of the.so petti
coats fall lower than the ankles , In order
tlUt the w aror may not bo depilved ot a
sfsfht of her satin-clad high-heeled feet.
5 > ( im soft llnuutal and rainbow dyed Hong-
JV ( > U' H'"c ' blouses are shown hanging In full
SnVordloa plaits from tbo shoulder , the bag-
riuK sleeves caught In on the Inside of the
elbow with tiny sold link studs , and instrad
of ptuds or buttons down the front the artful
nfnnufacturcrs fasten the blouso.wlth dear
lUUo hooks and eyes of gold.
-\h > VOLANTES.
ijUit It the heart of weak woman goes out
In/llil'j hot weather to tlio cool silk and mua-
lin. short blouses , how much more enrnesly
& > 6lio Inclined to yearn over the long onci
ca i-d volanles , with their well-opened necks ,
Thblr wide elbow sleeves and their long float-
.Tirp skirts , all ot the .sheerest dotted muslin ,
Iliero Is truly no higher note of elegance
flavthu matter of lounging robes to be touched
lu dotted swUa. The dots must b < )
II , however , a great deal of lace must bo
i ] , and those for tbo latest liousseaus liavo
'l > 6.ws and knots and streamers of white taf-
teln ribbon , sot on at every available point.
With tliu dotted muslin long blou.o goes a
flklrt of the t-amu material , decorated with
X\XD lact > flounces at tht > foot and the back
'at. llio blonco , It fibould bo noted , U not
4 W lu a watteau plait. TliU device , though
'graceful enough , ailJi tro much weight for
bill weather , and with none of these flawing
garments U a corset worn. Thus there U
hygiene and comfort , mingled with fash-
.tbnablu iplcndore , for tbo long blouse , like
XJiU short one , fust CM together only over the
t > ( ist , and exceedingly lo > ely ones are made
fnm ) the now brown , ruao and pale green
Fivnch batistes woven with batln stripes In
paler or brlgher thades.
But bedroom case Li yet further added to
hy the nuw and useful wraps worn when the
process of the manicure and hair grooming
must bo undertaken , Then the bloujc Is
thrown aside and either a llttlo cape of
naoonllon plaited crepe do china Is laid about
-tlo | shoulder and falls just below the waist
lint1 , cr Iho upper half of the body Is
"shrouded In what looks vry like a toga of
> 'hUo chirm silk , Thu ( aa lu a great aquaro
soft Bilk , edged all about with lace , and ,
wrapped about the body , la so ar-
.1 as to let two corners book on cither
cjiquliler. Such a protection , In silk or
Jlucn , Is not only need while the hair Is
t.i > uilcJ , but when It Is washed , whllo It
dries , and therefore It Is something more
( | vpi the extravagant wbu | > of women who
ij-Vi afford to cater to every taste. One finds
tliulii In the shops ready made , of flno whlto
Jf > urt > Uh toweling , for genuine hard service ,
jtnst as on Investigating negligee wearlug
apparel for trailers n score of delightful
GuinKii's , to pack In a handbag or steamer
triini ? ! are found ,
SUITED FOR HANDBAGS.
First among the gcod things are wool
grenadine short jackets. In white , rose and
blue , for seasick Individuals to wear In their
Lortlir , and for Invalids to put ou at ulcht.
when voyaging , aa a protection against
drafts that penetrate even to one's bed.
These are cut blouse shape , too , but there In
no tickling , tearing lace nnd bowknots. about
them. The low cut neck and straight fronts
na well as long elccvo ends , are bound flat
with bright ribbon , and a pocket In one slilo
holds the wearer's handkerchief. In ad
dition to thrao are outing flannel and wool
grenadine bedgowns , that slip over the cot
ton or linen nlghtdrcos and still more allur
ing heavy mixed silk and wool crcpo bath
robes. The last mentioned are cut like those
men wear , and are made of this rather ex
pensive crepe because It Is the only material
that folds Into the very smallest compass
for packing , and jet Is nearly as warm as
flannel. '
On board ship and on trains they are a
Joy to womankind , for on making n way to
the bath or dressing * room the long folds ,
girded at the waist by a ribbon , cover one
fully , a hood draws up over towscled. hair ,
and Into pockets In the skirts can bo stowed
BURP case , comb and brush , sponges , etc. ,
that must be carried down the car aisle
otherwise awkwardly In one's bands. 13lit
the virtue of this now bathrobe Is not fully
demonstrated until 11 Is folded Into a parcel
about one-third the slzo of an ordinary flan
nel wrapper , and so entitles the owner to
double tbo usual space lu her handbag.
MUSLIN TEA GOWNS.
If the term full-dress negligee Is possible ,
then the newest and bcautltulcst , of the Ua
gowns answer that description. Whether
they are all ot swtss muslin and lace , or of
silk , glorified with jeweled embroidery , It U
not too much to say that they quite outrival
any of the summer gowna jet seen In the
elaborateness of their design nnd glories ot
their decoration. The whlto swiss tea gown
has come and conquered every woman who
Is at home to anjbody after 3 o'clock of a
hot afternoon. She wears It cut out In a
small square at the throat , training a llttlo
lchlnd ) , and depending for decoration wholly
on flounces of muslin and on edgings of lace ,
real Valenciennes It she can atiord It , very
narrow , and whipped on to miles of wide and
narrow milling.
The smartest of smart muslin tea gowns
sent to a modish Inhabitant of Newport was
whlto over whlto muslin petticoats , but tbo
three deep flounces at the foot , with head
ings and the narrow ones on Iho body , that
were set on to simulate a milled bolero , wore
edged with black Valenciennes just one-
fourth of an Inch wide. At every nook and
corner were sot bows that looked like small
chr > oanthoniums , made of the black , nar
rowest French taffeta ribbon , and a tiny
cap with black bows went wllh It. Thee
o ner of the gown was not In mourning , but
she follows the prevailing notion that by
touching whlto with bl.xck an alr-of daintier
coolness Is secured. Though a most crushable -
able ephemeral creation , this cost a matter
of $7G , whllo some of those decorated with
wider white lace como al a larger figure.
The explanation of their makers Is that
the use of real lace enhances the price ,
though just as charming a suit could be had ,
using Imitation lace , at a fourth of the price
mentioned. Some of these tea gowns are
worn over slips of white taffeta silk and some
of them have really lodg trains and the
slceveq to the elbow always , or 'In ' many
cases sleeves are lacking entirely , the arm
holes being filled In with straight outstaud-
tng muslin ruflles , like embryo \vlnfrn.
From the costly simplicity of muslin to the
frankly displayed elegances of embroidered
tea robes , tha women at this moment make
easy transition and for anything like an
afternoon . function , at home , an nlindst
royally beautiful tea gown la , considered , ln
perfect order. From watteau draperies the
tendency Is markedly .toward Greek grae-
fulncss in disposing folds , and for this rea
son crepe do chine Is a goods in great favor.
A sketch given shows how the draperies are
bestowed in , strictly classical fashion , with
modern liberties In decointlnn. Hero Is
whlto crepe with a trained under rope and a
pcplus falling over that. Its edges every
where trimmed with a border of gold skele
ton embroidery on a foundation of chiffon.
Upon the bust falls a Greek pla&tron ot white
silk , heavily worked In gold sequins , thread
and llttlo turquolbe , while a gold and tur
quoise glrdlo gathers In the gowns full
ness fi little at the waist lino.
Juat as splendid in effect Is a mourning
tea gown , made for Mrs , . Havemcyer , of
black crepe and trimmed about the edges
of the Greek overdress' , on the bust and at
the waist line , with dull jet nnd Imitation
ash and white pearls , for these last como
undnr the hpad of mourning gems. From
Paris have come along with these Greek
gowns an odd combination of the Greek and
empire fashions. That Is , over an under-
dress cut bhort-walsted or exactly after the
model of gowns worn by the Empress
Josephine a pcplus Is laid. The edges of
tba peplua and the front of the empire robe
are richly embroidered In sequins , false
stones and bullion thread , and the arms aio
bare , while the neck IB opened square and t
rather low in front only. Then , to top off
this combination , a Mme. de Stael turban Is
assumed , all ot whlto tulle , with a ( coquet
tish knot of roses or tinted ostrich tips to
ono side. NINA FITCH.
UUATUICI3 IIAUIIAIIK.V AT IIOMIJ.
HIT Mctlinila of AVurk , Her IilcnlN mill
Her AoeoiniillNliiiioiilN.
Partly by choice , and partly on account
of health , Miss Beatrice Harraden Is a bird
of passage , and I was fortunate to find her
lit her parental homo at Hampatead In the
brief Interval between her return from
Bournemouth , where- she had been wintering
MISS HARRADAN'S UVTEST PHOTO
GRAPH.
amongit the pines , and her departure for
Lucerne , where she na hoping to complete
the recovery of her health , which , alas ! has
frustrated ta many of her literary plans
during the last few years. Not a word of
repining does one hear from Mi i Harraden
on this account ; she accepts It In a beautiful
spirit of resignation , and some-times saj ;
"It is folly to roplno at God for what U ,
after all , principally my own fault. If I had
not so tliouRhtlcctily overworked my brain
In my college days , I should not be Buffering
now. " A little longer spell of complete rest ,
and Mlsrt Harraden will doubtless bo at her
desk again , fresh as ever.
As this is the first interview which has
appeared with the author of "Ships That
1'ass In the Night , " I must , In the Interest
of readers , transgress a llttlo against Mlaa
Harrndcu'a dislike of publicity on matters
purely personal. She Is slight and dark ,
with a dreamy , thoughtful expreu.lon , and
Indicates , by every word , look and gesture ,
that gho abUon conventionalities , eoclety
manners and loves perfect freedom to bo
herself.
Her home la on tbo breezy heights nccr
Hampstead heath , and there Is a delight
fully quaint , old-faebloned style about the
house and garden , and Indication every
where that the rooms are meant for use
and comfort , not aa receptacles for' orna
ments. Musical Instruments abound In the
drawing room , for tbo tvcolo family are
musical. Miss Kthel Harraden U well
known as a musical composer , and MUa
Harradeu U herself an accomplished player
upon the violoncello. A younger ulster ,
Miss Gertrude , has a hobby for making
pottery , and has devoted much t'mo to the
study of old brasses. Several brothers make
up a family which Is distinctly original and
clever , and which owes much ot UK accom
plishments to the lenient and wise parental
couttol , which has given to each member
freedom to follow out his different tastes
and Inclinations.
When I asked Miss Harraden whether she
had early literary aspirations , she replied
that she alwnjs knew-from her childhood
that she wanted to write , but the demands
of class study gave llttlo opportunity for
her to practice original composition. AtUr
taking her degree , however , she set tosoik
upon stories , \\hlch slio sent to Hlackwood's
magazine. Mr. niackwood evidently was
quick to recognize that the making ot a
novelist was In her , for although he re
turned her first efforts , ho did so with a
kind letter ot encouragement , In which he
advised Miss Harraden to continue writing
until she did something which bo could
accept. At last the day of triumph came ,
when her first published story , "Tho Um
brella Mender , " appeared In Hlackwood's
boueo In ono oi cfije eastern clttea , thereby
Informing the public'that ' the occupant of th
house U ready. , for a smill 'oo , to secure
Just the house flealred.
Anyone who hn . , , iinJorfiono the poslttvo
misery ot hous iEhunllnB' will hall -with joy
the advent x > f ttxii now occupation.
Hsr charge Iff' ftrrom the applicant , who
describes the louatttm and kind ot house de
sired , amount at r > nt to bo paid , and all
the detail. Whun'nhe ' has secured a house
that corresponds wfth the description given ,
a notice Is sentlto Ho applicant , locating the
bouse. oil t
She also recclVt a fee or commlfslon from
the owner or fffibftU When Interviewed on
the subject of hcrlistrango occupation Flo
enld : "Whllo following a weary quest for a
habitation for mjficlf I would see just what
1 wanted , ljut none would bo on my list , nud
tbo thought came , 'what a relief It would
be to have some ono do my house hunting. '
One morning I awcko to nnd mysiSlf pcunl-
Icrn , with a family to support , and , when
racking my brain for a way to earn a living ,
the thought relumed. I visited the rual t-s-
tate arjents , asking what they would give mete
to find tenants for their houses. Satisfactory
arrangements were soon made. I then began
to study houses , streets , and , In fact , the
entire city , aud , being n keen observer of
human nature , I was soco able to fit houses
to people , and often to flt people to houses.
Of course , It requires tact. In , less th.m a
year my Income was stifllclcnt for all our
wantt\ and at the present tlmo am entirely
Independent , and have quite a bank account.
My health Is better than It has over been ,
owing to the outdoor exercise. "
This Is the testimony of the woman herself.
Why not try It , you poor , sickly creatures ,
who are housed up all day , sewing or wait
ing on cMlomers , or working In the close
BIUSLIN PRESSING SACK ; AND FIGURE D SILK COMBING GOWN.
magazine. Other short stories followed , and
after a while Miss Harraden's first book. I
"Things that Take a Time , " was published
by Messrs. UlacUwood , A period of Ill-
health followed , and upon recovery the
author produced that strangely sad yet
withal deeply fascinating book upon which
her fame at present rests , "Ships That Pass
In the Night. " Strangely enough. Miss
Harraden's kind friend and counselor , Mr.
Dlackwood , rejected the manuscript ot this
book , not , however , because he did not
recognize the power of the story , but bc-
cauho he thought It too sad to please the
public taste. Finally Miss Harradeu dis
posed of the copyright of her famous story
to Messrs. Laurence & Dullen for a mere
trllle glad. Indeed , to got It published at
any price. The success was Instantaneous ,
and the author was overwhelmed by letters
of appreciation from all sorts and conditions
of people. They came from lonely Indian
stations , the backwoods of America , as
v. ell us from the cities of the continent ,
and although the dollars arising from
the large ualcs did not come to Miss Har-
radcn , she saya that she feels compensated
by the many Interesting friendships which
the book has brought her In her own and
other lam's , one of the most Interesting be
ing 'with a Dutch professor In Amsterdam.
The book has been translated Into French ,
German , Hungarian , Danish , Italian and
Finnish.
Ml&s Harraden Is a very slow and careful
writer , and rarely alters cvea a word In her
manuscripts after they are once written.
Morning Is her favorite time for work , but
bhu will often sit with the paper before her
for a couple of hours and not write more
than a line ; at other times Ideas coma more
rapidly , She Is over-anxious and eager to
produce the best of which she Is capable ,
and fastidious over every word. It Is prob
ably the high state of mental tension SI
which she works which Is perpetually over
taxing her bodily strength and leading to
breakdowns lu health. I was much Inter
ested In seeing' the original manuscript of
"Ships That Pass In the Night , " which Miss
Harradcm has bad bound together. Thewrit -
ting Is small , but legible , the alternations
very slight , and there la not a single blot or
"fimudga" throughout the clcsely written
pages a matter upon which the author prides
herself , ,
Apart from writing , which has ever been
her gicat delight. Miss Harraden Is devoted
to the study of moral philosophy and to
the reading of Introspective , poetry , which
appeals peculiarly to her own deep nature ,
over dwelling on the problems of life and
of character. Then there la her beloved
'cello to while uwuy the hours not devoted
to study. "Miss Harraacn Is essentially
piogrcsulve In her Ideab. A distinguished
student herself , she Is naturally a strong
advocate ) for ( he higher education of women
and for equality of the sexes In the matter
of university degrees , as in all the profes
sional and Industrial walks of life. She
sees no barrier In hex for a woman who de
sires to carve her nay In life but what
energy and perseverance will surmount , and
she Is a pronounced suffragist , looking
capcrly forward to the day when women
will bo us free tu exercise the rights of
citizenship an men. The writings of Shelley
and of Ibsen , with their note of freedom
for woman and due recognition ot her true
place In the economy of nature , appeal
strongly to Miss Harraden , the keynote of .
whose nature Is , as wo have .before said , '
a love of freedom and u hatred of tbo uu- '
meaning and useless conventlonalltlej of so
ciety , She loves the Bohemian life , with
Its greater opportunity for development of
original , character.
During the last year or two Mlia Ifar-
radeu haa found In southern California a |
health resort exactly nulled to her tastes ;
but It Is a mlitako to suppose , aa has been
ofteu done , that her permanent homo Is
there. SARAH TOOLEY.
A. I'llOPESHION POU WOMEN.
New , Novel nnd Uueful u Well an
I'rolKuUlv.
"Mrs. M. L. Johnson , House Hunter , " Is
the uniqueelgn seen on aa unsesuinlug
offices and earning only a mere pittance ?
Remember , ther'e Is life In the pure air.
i
COI.OMAL , WtiDOIN'GS.
Quaint Fcn iiruH of MnrrliiRc Ccrc-
iiionlc.H In the Knrly DIIJH.
Until this century the grotesque belief ob
tained both In England and In the colonies
that If a widow were married to a second
husband while she was clothed only In a
shift her now mate would never have to pay
any debta of her contracting nor of her first
husband. Such marriages were certainly
common In Now England and Pennsylvania ,
and probably In tbo southern colonies , says
the Chicago Record , and by their frequency
and their being formally recorded by the
magistrates evidently were regarded legally
binding as to tbo previous deb la of the
widow-bride.
Many such marriages rook place in Ver
mont. Widow Lovejoy of Westminster , Vt. ,
wedded Asa Averlll. Sbo was married In
her shift , hidden b'chlnd a curtain in a chim
ney recess. In Newfano , Vt. , In 17S9 , Major
Moses Joy married. Widow Hannah Ward.
The bride , with no clothing on , was bidden
In a closet. She thrust her band out through
* V &fJhWl' ' V TriWKjfiS :
WHITECRKPE DB CHINE.
a lozenge-shaped hole cut In tbo door and
the marriage ceremony < waa thus performed ,
whllo her response Issued from tbo closet.
The gallant bridegroom had previously de-
pcslted In the closet a coatumo of bridal
finery , and after the ceremony the bride
donned this new attire and appeared to re-
celvu the. congratulations of everyone , ex
cept , possibly , tbo flrst husband's creditors.
Another brldo , married lu her shift from a
high window , noon drcssud In now wedding
garments and descended a ladder to her
waiting bridegroom.
From the record of the return of marriages
to the court of sessions of Lincoln county ,
Maine , I take this affidavit :
"This la to certify that John Gatcbell and
Sarah Cloutman , both Inhabiting on Kenne-
bcc river , a llttlo below Fort Halifax , and
out of the bounds' of-any town , but within
the county of Lincoln , were first published
as the law directs , at the said court aud
there married ; said Cloutman , being In debt ,
was desirous of being married with no more
clothes on tbku her shift , which was
granted , and they married each other on
the 21 t day ot November. A. D. , 17S7.
"Attest ; I WILLIAM LITHGOW ,
"Justice of Pcaco. "
WHAT THH RECORDS SHOW.
In some localities It was specified that
the brldo must be married "In her smock ,
with 'Vo headgear on , " and In others the
exceedingly difficult condition was added
that the ceremony should take place on the
public highway. Really , It would seem that
any very desirable mate would rather have
paid the widow-bride's debta than let her
go through that mortifying ordeal. But all
men are not generous , or were not In
colonial days , nor were they oversensitive ,
so Instances of such marrhiRes are far from
rare. Wo can pity poor Widow llrodley
and wonder what kind of a second husband
she could bo taking when wo find that on
a bitter night In February , 1774 , In the
bleak winds of a town on the Maine coast ,
clad only In a shift , she met her bride
groom at a point In the road half-way be
tween her homo nnd his. The pitying min
ister throw his coat over her shivering
form , and possibly thus saved her life.
In the oldest book of registration ol
births , deaths and marriages , now In the
cleik'a oinco at South Kingston , R. I. , Is
this lecord :
"Tromas Culvcrwcll was Joyned In mnr-
rlago to Abgall his wife tbo 22 Feb. 1719-20.
Ho took her In marrlago after she bad gone
four times across the highway In only her
shift and hnlr-laco and no other clothing.
Joyned together In marriage by me.
"GEORGE HAZARD , Justice. "
In Hopklnton , In 1780 , David Lewis mar
ried Mrs. Jemima Hill at midnight , where
four roads meet , she dressed only In her
shift , to avoid the payment ot the deceased
Hill's debts , In Richmond , R. I. , In 1790 ,
Thomas Kenyan'married In the evening twi
light on the public highway Widow Sarah
Collins , dressed In n long shift covering her
feet.
feet.In
In the neighboring town of Westerly the
same custom and belief obtained. Hero is
an entry in the town records :
"To All People Whom It May Concern
This certifies that Nathanell Bundy of West
erly took ye widow Mary Parmentor of said
town on yo highway with no other clothing
but shifting or smock on yo evening of yo
20th day of April , 1724 , nnd was joynod to
gether in the honorable state of matrimony
in ye presence of
"John Corey , and wasjoyncd together
"George , as above mentioned per
"Mercy Hill , mo.
"Peter Crandall , JOHN SANDERS.
"Mary Crandall. Justice. "
I have a record of a "shift marrlago" as
late as the year 1836 , In the town of Easton ,
Mass ,
QUAINT CUSTOMS.
It wan a tradition in England that a felon
sentenced o death could be rescued from his
fata If any woman would offer herself as a
wlfo to him and marry him from the gallows.
It Is eald . .hat such marriages took place ,
and It can bo seen that in those dajvi of
death sentences for political strife- there was
much opportunity for romance and exhibi
tion of Bcntlment. A curious variation of
this custom Is told by a famous negro , Gus-
tavus Vasja , In his memoirs. Me states that
ho saw In New York , In the year 1784 , a
malefactor who was condemned to death and
standing on the gallows about to undergo
his sentence. Ho was reprieved and liberated
through his marriage on the gallows to a
woman who was clad only In her shift. I
hove not , In reading the memoirs of Vasoa ,
been Impressed with their truthfulness , and
I think his titory of the gallows mairiage
will bear Investigation and corroboratlon.
The sport of stealing "Mlaticss Brldo , " a
custom derived from the old savage brigade
of many peoples , occurlng flret In actual fact ,
then In symbolic customs , obtained In Con
necticut until a .century ago. If the bride
were left for a moment unguarded a party of
, young men seized her , carried her to a
baddlcd and plllloned horse and bore her off
to the nearest tavern , when she was redeemed
by the groom furnishing a gay supper to the
revelers , Madam Knights tells that some
times the groom deserted the wedding party ,
was pursued and brought back to the bride
a moat ungallant proceeding ,
If the marriage were ono which would to
day bo termed "in society , " and therfore of
note In the community , a sermon applicable
to the evjnt was often preached. The bride
was usually permitted to chose the text.
The wife of Asa Greene chose from II
Chronicles , 14 : "And Asa did that which was
good and right In the eyes of the Lord. "
Another bride selected from Proverbs : "Her
husband Is known In the gates when be
altteth among the elders of the land. " A
Now England minister. In honor of hla own
woddlng and hla own brunette bride ,
preached ftom the text , "I am black but
comely , " etc.
OLD TIME MARRIAGES.
Many a shadowy outline of the picture of
an old-tlmo marrlago bag come down to us
through the Journals and Interleaved al-
manoea which some of tlio old New England
parsons kept so religiously. We read 1n the
diary of Rev , Thomas Smith of Folmouth ,
Mu. , under a date just prevloua to tha revo
lution , of ono happy couple coming to the
parsonage acrces the wintry fields for many
miles on mow shoes ; others came by boat ,
the sturdy husband-elect rowing with his
brldo many miles along tbo shore or paddling
in a canoe. The favorite means of approach
was on horseback , on caddie and pillion.
These journals give ua alio amusing rccorda
of tbo wedding fees received by the clergy
men , not only In the country , but In towu.
All kinds of household etorea , bags ot corn ,
bcana aud peas , sides of beef and bam ,
strings of sausages , a "ctore pli" these
borne nlio ou horseback to the wedding. One
Vermont couple , poor but loving and deter
mined , came to town In midwinter la a high-
backed pung. or JlelEb.with half a dozea
band-made birch , broomi , & box of elder
brandy , K bushel of beechnut ! , a box of aau-
sngcs anl aomo mink akin * The mlnlito
could thocflo from these hli fee. Ho took
the broom * . The happy groom throw Into the
bargain a pock of beechnuts. The newly
wedded pair then drove tor the country stor
and changed or paid out all the other com
modltlcs for a thin c . bmero near ! for tha
bride , whoso scanty clothing had already
excited the sympathy of the minister's wife
There Is a very touching traditional tate
ot ono colonial brldo. As POOII as the mar
rlago ceremony was over the young pair
started on horseback to rldo to the now
libtno , H log hut In an outlying township. A
gay party roda with them for some miles to
bid them happy godspeed , but at last they
journeyed alone. As they dismounted at tha
door of Iho new homo a band of savage Irt
dlmis tell upcn them , bore oft the husband
securely bound In thongs , and knocked the
wlfo ou tbo head as too hampering and use
less n captive. But she was not dead , a
her husband believed , and after Incrcdlblo
sufferings was rescued and carried to he
old homo. Years of grief finally wore away
and she died. As n sad llttlo group o
friends bore her to the grave there rode Into
the village a bronzed man , halt In Indlai
dress. U was the captive husband , returnci
afler years ot wandering In tlmo to take oiu
last look at the beloved face ho had plcturci
still In death for many years.
A I.MUAX rvmv AVOJIAN.
How She WIIH Drt-NMOil ltr HiiMlifliii
In Worth $ Ur > OOon.
The newest ot new women , and yet ono ol
the oldest , It the aborigines may bo clamct
as "old , " was recently sjen on the streets
ot St. Louis , saya the St. Louis Globe-Demo
crat. She was a splendid specimen ol
womanhood , strikingly haudsomo and su
perbly proportioned , nnd was dressed In
bloomcm , although they differed In style and
cut from any \\orn by the St , Louts blcyclo
girls. She was an Indian woman , the full-
blooded daughter ot n chief of the Sioux
tribe , ono of the fiercest and most blood
thirsty bands which ever troubled the set
tlers of the west , and her dress was one of
the most peculiar ever eecn on tbo etrcets of
a great city. A dark hat of modern style
halt hid a qimntly ot raven-black hair on
her splendid head and a long ulster of the
most recent fashion enveloped her , outlining
her flno figure to advantage. But below
thta there flapped out ns shn 'walked ' the
most remarkable part of her dress , and that
which attracted the most attention her
liloomers. They were cut long and straight ,
Ilko men's trousers , and were small at the
bottom , eo that they were rather close about
the ankles. These bloomcra were of black
silk , and the Inner and outer seams were
decorated with four or flvo lows of bcada
of vailouscolors and worked In fanciful
dralgng. Flowers , snakes aud animals run
up and dowiu the side and made the bloom
ers , or trousers , a thing to attract atten
tion anywhere , and especially on flo hand
some a woman. Her complexion was olive ,
Ilko that of a Spanish girl , and clear ; her
cheeks were rosy and her voice low , but her
eyes wore dark nnd piercing and ecemed
to look through one. But with all her fan
ciful dress and her name ot Talacouqua
she Is the wlfo ot one of the richest mer
chants of the great southwest and 1 on bcr
way to Europe , where she 'Will ' doubtless be
received by royalty.
In direct contrast to this woman was ono
of her companions. Taller than she , with
hair as light as hers was dark and light
blue eyes , his ruddy , sunbuint face was
partially shaded by the broad-brimmed oom-
brcro , which was tipped to ono sldo on lib
head. As ho walked there was a swing to
his gait that told of the easy gallop of the
mustang and everything In his manner bespoke -
spoke the cowboy. His chlrt , which was ot
expensive material , was made neglige fash
ion and cut low at the nock , showing a pow
erful neck , tanned by the exposure of many
suns on the plain. His clothes , too , were of
expensive material , but tbo cut was a trifle
odd. Still , they gave ono the 'Impression
that they were paid for and that the man
who wore thorn had his own opinion as to
how clothes should bo nvado for him , as he
was the man to wear them. He walked
along , frequently squirtlugr stream cf'ito-
bacco juice- through his whlto teeth and
stroking his long blond mustache. The man ,
Samuel 'Bronnau ' , Is worth $250,000 and is
ono ot the most successful merchants In
Tcxaa.
Between this strangely assorted pair
walked a youngster , auojt G years old and
bis dress was as stylish as that of bis com
panions was unconventional. A leather Tarn
O'Shanter was placed jauntily on one side
ot his crown of golden curia and ho wore a
velvet coat of Fauutlcroy pattern. Ills llt
tlo feet were Incased In swell patent leather
boots , and above them , extending nearly to
the hip , were leather leggings. Those were
decorated somewhat after the manner of the
bloomers which the woman beside him wore ,
but were not so noticeable because of the
decoration , as thcro were only two rows of
beads and they were dark In color. The llt
tlo fellow carried a cane , which he swung
to and fro like a Fifth avenue dude , and
yet the Indian woman la his mother and ho
is the heir to $250,000 and is going abroad
to enjoy the advantages of forelg.i travel.
KaMliloii iNolrn.
Pretty parasols are made of silk patterned
with peacock feathers.
Gauze made of vegetable silk Is ono of the
season's specialties employed largely la mll-
/inory.
Whlto gowns In any port of material will
bo a.ulte as much worn as over , despite the
craze for red , violet and blue.
iA novel drcsj trimming seen on some of
tbo light-colored cloth gowns Is the applica
tion of black Chantilly /aco / flowers.
Irish lace Is very popular for yokes and
epaulette effects on foulard gowns , and Is
used la edging and Insertion as well.
Serpent skin la a new trimming for tailor-
made gowns , and it Is employed for entire
rovers ahd tiny bands on the cloth rovers.
Fancy little bolero jackets are made of
ecru linen , with a sailor collar across the
back , and elaborately embroidered with gold
tin cad.
An astonishing sight Is the wearing of the
DOTTED MUSLIN NEGLIGES * .
silver-mounted rabbit's fuot , attached to the
pure chain. It Is a fcaturo of the shirt
waist period.
Ruffs of chiffon lace and ribbon are very
fashionable In Parts , and they are made high
at tbo back , with long emla In front and a
deep flounce of chiffon around the shoulders.
Berthas and Marie Antoinette fichus of
silk muslin with pi pa led frills of the same ,
ono falling partly over the other , are always
useful in Imparting fresh , dainty effect tea
a gown at small expense.
Tbo craze for Vlctorlin souvenirs extends
to the glovru and purses -In London. Glovca
tiave buttons with the queen' * portrait on
their surface , and pockolbooks are orna
mented , with the rose , shamrock and thlstla.
Green In endless shades li used on tum-
uior toilets both for linings under tranupar-
onU and for entlro toilets , foundations under
short capes of chiffon , gllk mualln , grenadine ,
etc. , and In millinery the color is used to
excess.
Very many ol th new ihlrt waists lu
NEVER
DECEIVE
THE SICK.
This is the Motto of Professor
M uny on.
"Never deceive ( ho sick. A man who
would commit such a moral crime would
dcsorvo the severest punishment. " So
\
says Prof. Munyon , the highest medical
authority In the world. Munyon's Im-
pioved System of Medicine Is founded
upon scientific knowledge nnd common
sense. Munyon hm n. separate specific )
for each disease. Mostly sold for " 3 con teat
at druggists.
Mrs. Nancy Johnson , Wichita. Kan. ,
saya : " Ono trial bottle of Munyon'a
Rheumatism Cure gnvo me the greatest
relief , after I had been Buffering1 wltli
that disease for years. "
If In doubt write to Prof. Munyon at
Philadelphia , Pa. , and get medical advlco
true.
lawn , batiste , linen , clmmbray , etc. , are still
nado with starched collars and cuffs , very
pretty styles being formal of repped cottotm
patterned with Oriental designs In beautiful
colorings.
The checkered , brocaded , striped and
jarred sllk-and-wool materials Imported till *
cason ore suitable for any ordinary occasion ,
and If tailor-made and stylishly trimmed ,
they form elegant church , visiting and car-
rlaeo costumes.
Very bewltchlm ; above young and piquant
aces look the Victorian poke bonnets tied
under the chin with strings of airy not or
; auze , the bonnets trimmed with ribbons ,
argu paste buckles and compact clusters ot
flowers and foliage.
Checked taflcta scorns to bo a favorlto
'abrlc In Paris , and many pretty dresses are
made of these checks In various colors. Quo
In palo gray and pink Is quito plain , with a
plaited bolero front opening over a vest of
pink gauze trimmed with yellow lace.
The Marie Antoinette flchu Is meet favored ,
but all styles need careful adjustment , and
the manner of arrangement d I ft era according
to the form of the wearer , or should do BO.
When the waist la short the flchu ends
should come down well below the waist lino.
It La said that Paris has a society for the
aid of dressmakers , and M. Gaston Worth
Is the secretary. The object la to assist
dressmakers to tldo over the dull season ,
when so often they liavo no work at all.
"Money Is lent them without Interest la case
of Illness.
Among the vanity ot vanities worn at the
bud's belt this season Is a small square
plato glass mirror , , set in a delicate frnmo of
gold or ; stlvoj , often thick with jewels , at
tached to the chatelaine among trophies of
of all ports. Of course , It's for use as wall
as ornament.
Belts of plaid silk fastened with a metal
buckle are popular with English women , and
belts ot every sort are a particular feature
of dress. Leather of various tints forms'a
background for all sorta of metal work and
fancy , jeweled designs. A green ono dotted
over with turquoise Is especially good stylo.
Etons and zouaves are worn over shirt
waists of every description , from lace and
silk to plain and fancy gingham. Very often
the eton is black and the stock collar and
neck bow match the jacket In color , giving
a ton ing effect to the waist and modifying
considerably Its severe outlines.
I'Vinliitne NutuN.
Miss H. H. Williams , a woman commis
sioner , -who ta representing Jersey City at the
Tcnneosco Centennial , Is an up-to-date lit
erary woman.
Mine. Altmul Is slnglngv.roost acceptably
In London. She has completed arrangements
to sing at the Handel festival at Crystal palace -
ace Juno 11-18.
Slgnora Amparo Orbe , who was a short
tlmo ago the reigning belle of Havana , has
been following her husband In dlsgulso dur
ing the fortunes of war and bas been fiercely
fighting the Insurgents.
The countess von Linden has boon se
lected by the University of Hallo as substi
tute for Mr. J3 rand la , professor of zoology ,
during his leave of absence. The counters
lias already aited as assistant to the pro
fessor.
Mrs. Crake , ono of the flvo surviving resi
dents who were residing at Ratchet at the
tlmo of the queen's accession , lias volun
teered to erect a handsome cross In her vil
lage aa a memorial of her majesty's reign.
An Irish woman residing In Qreeco has
given the queen of Italy a costly piece of
lace , with the queen's crown embroidered
; n the center. The design was redrawn from
: ho queen of Italy's orown by the countess of
Qectlve.
At a mooting In Philadelphia recently Mini
Cummlngs of South Africa spoke of the
schools founded by Andrew Murray for Iho
Doers and for tbo descendants of the Huguenots
nets , In which thorn are SOO pupils , On *
'HI ' nil rod have gone- out as missionaries.
Uleanoro Duso has decided for the present
to play almost exclusively In English. Sbo
will play but once In French during her approaching
preaching season In Paris. ' That will be
when she will assist In securing funds to
erect tbo monument to Alexander Dumas.
It Is not generally known that the Baron
ess Illracb gave $187,000 to tbo 'Ilazaar ' do
Clmrito , to which BO many of the French
nobility sacrificed their lives. In addition
to her many noble worics of philanthropy
Kho now bns a j-eprebeiilatlvo In Now York
City paying out largo unm of money to as
sist poor Jews when they first arrlvo from
the old country.
Mrn. Angelina P. Hall of Saratoga. N. Y. ,
las Inaugurated a method ot bestowing
charity which will bo followed by hundred !
ot persons. She has given { 20,000 to tbo
Judson Memorial church of New York , with
ho proviso that the trustees pay her the In-
ercst on that amount during her lifetime.
rhuii Mrs. Hall has a regular Income and
he church Is endowed to materialize at her
de < tth.
The baroneES Gabrlelle von Ehrenthal ,
vho recently received her degree of doctor
ot medicine In Vienna , has held a medical
crtldcatu for gome tlmo from the Unlver-
Ity of Zurich. The lector of the Vienna
university , In his address to the graduates ,
noted that this was tbo first tlmo In the nu.
lain of the university that ( inch an Ifouor
md been won by a woman. Ho further
tatod that widening views regarding the
air ecx would eventually benefit tbo whole
f mankind ,
Airs. Emma Wakefleld enjoy * today thor
r distinction of being the 11 rat and only
olorod woman In the United States , If not
n the world , to bo a regularly graduated
nd oUlcIally recognized doctor of medicine ,
Sbo Is a daughter of an ox-senator of the
old Louisiana regime and a graduata of
bo medical department of the New Orleans
Afro-American university. She pasted her
xamlnatloni with high honors , and recently
ecolved her diploma from the Louisiana
State Hoard of Medical Examiners. She l
nether Illustration ot the possibilities ot
he colored people In our country , and da-
ervea the congratulations of tbo whlto aa
veil as tba African race ,
Before any olckneta comes a feeling ot
general debility and loss ot vitality , lilood
vitality , When , you feel weak ward oft
Iseaee by strengthening your blood. Till
Anevinlc Pink la composed largely of con-
collated beef 'blood , and la the er at blood
builder. *