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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Dec. 27, 1896)
B K ! * TTTE ( TMATTA DATLT 111313 ; STXIIAV. TBC13Mni3n ) 27 , ISOH. II * ( ? * /r / * ' /r / / ? < V\r \ ? / ? < / ? * < / ? < / ? / ? /T- / / ? / ? THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. Mtnuivrnu COSTIMI ; < : S. i Coiiu | > tlUli TdKKiT- for HknlltiK ninl ( in HI nu : . NHW YOIIK , Dec. 21.-Now Is fair woman noon to better advantage than when Rkltnmlnc over the Ice. Tor even If she la only a beginner In the tpurt , skating gives the excuse for extra cortucttlfih toggery ; short skills , that allow a blessed freedom ninl show small , well hod feet , close Jackets lhat reveal every line of a lithe , bending body nnd Jaunty headgear that sits n pretty head like the crest of n bird. Then the girl who hates them may drop petticoats with her skating tilolhes , though slm may not skate In knick erbockers , as It Is said to bo unfashionable Jn 1'nrU. Costumes for skating , except In the sim plest shape , are rarely to ho found ready made In Now York. The season for their use Is too short to Inspire much demand for them , so the plain little skill and Hnug Jacket that may he had are of a nature to mnko them suitable for cycling und golf ns well. Then n fur boa , a big mtift and a wln In a cocky velvet toque lures them back l Ice purposes again. It does not follow , however , herauso the ready made suits are rare that others are also. The establishment of a great artificial Ice rink nl the upper part of the city make * It no longer necessary to wait on nature for DOUHL1M''ACK > 0 CJOLK SKIRT. skating ; and there any afternoon and morn Ing may be sen smart rigs , all showing tha happy commingling of fur and color eve associated with tco clothes. SAKE AND STUNNING MODELS. These costumes havu been niado by the private dressmakers , have been Imported o fashioned at home. And not Infrequently I happens when worn by n girl who knowB her own type no. well as the genteel art o dressmaking thst the home-mndo skating dress 1ms often more chic than Its liner Bister. Naturally all authorities on the subjec have their own opinions on skating clothes And just as naturally the opinions are wide npart , though all concede- that the skating dress should bo short and not too heavy and that knickers or wool tights should be worn underneath Instead of petticoats. At the dressmaking places the models an ravlshlngly coquettish. At ono smart lion.se all were Importations brave conceits of Doucet , I'aquln , Kcllx am the rest of them. And , strangn- It may seem. Homo of these costumes were so sim ple that with two Ideas and a sowing linger uny woman could copy them nt less than a ten'h of their price. Kor example , there was ono adorable llt- tlo gown of red serge , banded all over with black broadcloth , worn nt the rink by .Miss ( Jerry. This , cut in bias strips , with the edges left raw , went round the skirt bodice and slfoves In bold stripes , which were splendidly effective on the red background The Bklrt was a three-seamed circular model with all the fullness at the back and the bottom mndo solid with many rows of stitch ing through the lowest band. There was no lining , but u pair of knickers lined with chamois were supplied Instead. 7 IIOUTII . . - > J.i. SKATING DRESS , The bodice was extremely simple. It was n round llttlo affair buttoning at the left , a yellow butlsto Jabot emerging from tha opening ; sleeves very small glgots and a bruadcloth bla forming the belt , THIn charming llttlo toilet Is hero pic tured nnd may bo bought in the original for $ iO. Yet ttvo yards of double width ncrgu fifty-six or sixty Inches and one yard and a half of broadcloth would reproduce It for less than $14. in place of the knickers heavy wool tights at $2 the pair. The head cover- lug , the very hat pictured , a round shape of red or black felt with turncd-up brim , velvet bow and wings , FOR I1EAUTY AND WARMTH , As to furs , black would go beat with this red frock , of course ; Thibet , Persian lamb or broadtail. Hut If you happen to have nn Alaska sable boa and mufr on band they won't hurt It ona bit. . Unlns covoreel by nn outside wrap , all bodice * should Lw worn over a chamois corset body ith high neck and long sleeve's. And even then It Is always wlno for theRe who take- cold easily to have an extra cnpa em hand for resting moments. -HANDSOME , HUT EXPENSIVE. Other dashing costumes Illustrated may also he copied in less expensive materials. A suggestion for n tnll blonde girl may be tnkcn from the cut showing skirt with trimmed panel nnd velvet bolero. The skirt of tills Is of heavy gray cheviot with browr. fur for the bands and black satin ribbon for thi ! bows. The bolero Is In maroon colored velvet having the front froggcd with black silk cord. The neck ends In n high Medici collar completely llnod with the fur , which Is ot monition In nn uncommonly handsome shade of brown ; black satin crnvnt and bows tying nt ( ho outside of the ulem-os. ' Other tuMcrlnls for this toilet could bo n follows : The skirt cheviot or serge In any color liked , brown , green , blue or red ; though In the lost Instance tlir- bolero will need to bo black or green. | Then mclialr lirald In graduated widths will trim the bottom of the jacket and elde I of skirt effectively. For the bolero Liberty i velveteen In n color to contrast with the klrt. as green with brown , blue with green , inntivo with gray or purple : and to Insure warmth , besides a chamois lining , rtie collar could bo fared with black Thibet fur. mink or Alaska enblo. In fact , since to llttlo of It appears , n'most ' any fur could be used for this faring , und It may be patched ani' patched anilnot show the flaws. Then nuihalr cords on the Jacket Instead of the flllk ono hero used , the same satin cravat , nnd bows on the sleeves nnd skirt. The toque- must be mndo of the snme ma- terlnl ns the bolero nnd trimmed with hand of white satin ribbon In loops and n large- bird In front. OF VELVET AND CLOTH. A skating suit shown by one of our smart est dressmakers was truly rnvlshlng. This was composed of n velvet skirt In n rich tobacco brown , and n closely fitting Jacket In eopper red cloth. The . klrt was the usual ankle length , without trimming and made circular shape ; the one already much described , with a nar row apron nnd sides nnd back In ono meet ing In the old way In a bias seam. The red jackeit had a magnificent trim ming of sable , forming a high collar , band ing the fronts and edging the bofjin of the basques. There were also straight cuffs of the same on the sleeves and over the brenrl of this stunning ilg went the black Ellk frogs that somehow give such a foreign look , and when nowhere else used , nro always ap- proprlato on n skating Jacket. And oven this beauty may be copied In expensively. Fof the skirt Liberty vel veteen , brown , green or blnck ; for the Jacket , serge , flannel or a portion of an old cloth dross In the panic copper red , marine blue , or olive green. Then otter , which Is a moderately Inexpensive skin , may ho used Instead of the Fable , and If the costume Is half In blnrk , the fur on the Jacket may bo simulated with strips of Per sian lamb cloth , which In bands of different widths , may bo had for this purpose very cheaply. A fourth fine dress likewise here Illus trated was perhnps the simplest thing the dressmakers hnd to chow for skating. It was made entirely of n curiously striped wool in brown nnd blnck , with the skirt edged with n. band of mink fur. The bodlco very plain , with small glgot sleeves nnd simply gathered nt the wnlst ; to go with It. a close. ' shoulder cape nnd muff of mink , and n black patent Icntber belt "were ele gant appointments. SKATING HINTS. Hut. though the dressier rig Is much more becoming , of course , It is really nt the shops where sporting goods arc sold that one gets the most useful hints for skating toggery. Few ready mndo suits are kept nt these plncos , but very trim ones nro fashioned to order out of reversible golf cloth. All of these , unless a plain braid trim ming or strapped senms nre wanted , are ninilc perfectly plain , the checked or plaid fnclng of the plain cloth being the point considered. To show It the Jncket hns often n hood buttoned on nt the bnck with the fnclng uppermost , nnd | the skirt Is so faced nt the bottom that only the checked or plaid underside shows In movement. For of course the golf cloths are too heavy to admit of lining in either skirt or jacket. Mndo to order in the wny shown on this page , a golf cloth skating suit may be hnd from X40 up. Denr.-of course , but then nil good things nro dear. For e-ountry use skating suits made of light weight toboggan blankets will bo found both comfortable nnd serviceable , besides costlni : little. And as the simple design of these Is so loose fitting Is not an Important point , nnd nny sporting shop of Importance supplies them rendy made. Hut of course there must always be a warm bodlco tinder ( be skating jacket , nnd n heavy wool sweater Is the easiest nnd snug gest thing for these. A sweater with the upper part In mixed honeycombed wool with a wldo plain baud at the wnlst to make it look small is one sort In t'-.o ' market. Hut there arc legions of others ; sweaters that button down the hack : nnd still others with plain mannish sleeves that fasten on the shoulders , and that you've got to creep Into just as your husband does Into his. Hut any ono of them Is a good Investment. And even under a smart walking coat you will find u warm sweater , without too many furbelows , on cold days the best ex cuse for n bodlco yon over had. SKATES. SHOES. ETC. AM to skating shoes there nro two sorts. Ono of heavy black calfskin , oiled lo keep away molsturo , and the other of brown rus set , made in the loose wny of some of the bicycle boots , to allow easy movement. lloth sorts nro laced nnd only ordinary boot height , with very flat heels and me dium toes. Golf stockings are worn with them. Skates , mercury's wings themselves , have changed little tdnco last season. The long , slender racing affairs are still seen , hut n newer skate Is Hhorter and squnrer , and hns n sliding clamp adjustment for the heel which Is warranted for security. This Is entirely of steel and In best quali ties costs $1 a pair. Such a skatu Is much more becoming to thn foot than those which have a leather heel support and strap fastening. NINA FITCH. _ noAiimxc iioi'.si ; I-TIOIIKTTI- : . Some IluIcN CoveriiliiK ( In.fiooil .Miui- in-rn of IloiinlerN. Hoarding house ctlquetto is not a new thlni : nnd the man or woman who rocs n-boardlng for the first tlmo Is apt to find his or her existence under n landlady's rule pleasant or disagreeable In proportion to discreet observance of polite customs be neath her roof. If you deslro to enlist In the noble army of boarders remember there Is a right und wrong way of achieving this end , and It Is the first stop that counts with the landlady. The first step Is tha manner In which you solicit lodging. In our large cities there are formalities on this point to bo observed. If through friendly recommendation or an idvcrtlsomont you decide to Investigate a lious ; , nuk at the door to see the mistress , say distinctly to the oorvant that you have called to make Inquiries about rooms und send up your visiting card. If you have a card nt hand nnd the serv ant ccms slow nt catching the name , rlso courteously when the landlady enters , pro- lounco your name In full , saying for In stance. "I am Mrs. Jnmcs Howlnnd. " Then ollow thlrt stntcment by saying In what lewspaper , or by whom the house waa recommended. When the rooms are being exhibited 'give the servant or landlady prece- lenco up and down stairs and bo most areful to prewerva un agreeable but simply nislnossllke tone. Make thorough , but not mpertlncnt , InqulrUti , and before coming to any bargain take u look at ( he dining room and bath room , ask when.1 meals are served , vhen lights are out In the halls , the vast of ntertalnlng a gueut at table , of meals nerved n one's bed room , If a piano , banjo or violin will bo admitted , what are the terms for children uud personal scrvanU and If gentle men have their shoes cleaned In the House ; In fact sum up In your mind all the proh- nblo Incidentals nnd satisfy yourself that no dlincultlo * can arise In the future over any misunderstanding or Ignorance on these points. WHEN DECLININQ. If you conclude not to take the rooms , because they nre too high priced for your Income , frankly say so nnd the mistress of the house will think none the less ot you for It. If for other reasons you do not wish to make nrarngemcnts. be careful to criti cise nothing nnd bocnuse you ure-too gentle- li ear ted or too truthful to say that the stale FiiH'il.i , the shabby drawing room , the rough ceivnnts , or flashy Inhnbltnnts disgust you , say kindly nt parting thnt you nro obliged for the opportunity of feeing the rooms , that you will take a few hours to consider and will wrlto your decision. . Wrlto as promptly ns you have promised , | use nice note paper and begin your communi cation , "My dear Mrs. Jones. " Hrlclly and frankly , if you chose , write that on looking elsewhere you found yourself more nearly VELVET SKIHT AND CLOTH JACKET. less friendly terms with her ask for a word alone nnd state your case. Never nmko any complaint to the serv ants with a hope that they will repeat it and never discuss either jour own affairs , your landlady's or any of the other resi dents with the servants. If you request of them a special favor tip them for It. Should your landlady call at your room for any reason stand yourself If you do not care to offer her a chair , but It Is In much better form to offer the common hcdpltnlltles. KKLLO\V HOARDERS. In dining and drawing room , In the hall , and his or her own apartments every boarder should speak In a very well modulated voice. If after a week In a IIOUPO a new comer Units the landlady dees not make In- troductloim ono should watch for the bow uud good morning from these who have been longer residents , A now comer must wait for those already established to make the llr t advances , and It IK distinctly churlish for any one to Ignore a creating. You may bo friendly or not with tTO'iHIipp members I of the household ns > ou cluw e , but you arc distinctly in the wrong In overlook such A common civility as a bow > i \Vhcro nt a table threw or < four persons regularly sit and n member of the group tins a friend In to dine or .lunch It Is enl polite to Introduce the ( cloud-to every onu at the tnblc. Where all the boarders arc fcnted at ono long table , a friend need nebo bo Introduced to any ono , not even to the landlady. If to ono persftn nn Intro.luctloi Is made , every one must then ho Introduced Where n young man or young girl come , alone to a boarding htnise they c n expcc the first bows nnd good mornings from the old folks , and If a young nian wishes to nice an amiable girl who Itvcs'ln ' the same house with him ho can ask the landlady to re quest the privilege of an Introduction Through the same medium women can learn to know each other. SO.NC iiiuns. I\IICMNCM : unit 1'rolllM of HnMitK Tin-it for tin * Market. Rasing birds for sale Is u comparatively easy way of adding n llttlo pin money to a limited Income. Not only canaries , but gold finches , sis kins and Java sparrows should bo Includci In the menage. Kor while canaries can ol ways find n ready market on account o their Bongs , the latter birds can readll > bo disposed of If they arc trained or taugh n few tricks , which they easily learn. Without any great Investment of mono or entire enpendlture of time , $10 n week or more should be realized by the amateur bird fancier , who first Invests In ten canaries at } 2 each. Three times as many female IlED HEUGK WITH BLACK BROADCLOTH AND WOOL SKIRT WITH VELVET HOLEDO. suited , or simply state that you do not think the 1-001113 she showed you qulto aull your needs , nnd with thanVs for her solicitude to please * you , sign yourself "very truly. " It Is discourteous to use a postal card for this. If better stationery IG possible. It la not good form to wrlto a note In the third person , and to begin merely dear madam. WHEN ENGAGING. Now , on the other hand , ( should you wish to engage the rooms and yet know nothing of the character of the Inmates of the house , pave the way for settling this question by baying : "Mrs. I'rown , I hope wo shall be able to exchange satisfactory references. " Then give the uanid and addresses of your friends In the city who will vouch for your 2:011 : : ! name and honesty and In return Mrs. Iirown will similarly Identify herself. Once established in one's new rooms a guiding principal for the Inexperienced boarder to safely follow , with a view to gaining her lamllmly'H goad will , is unfail ing punctuality. At meals he or she should rim to ho on time and render cash or a check the same day lhat the weekly bill Is presented. If one Is to drive out It Is only considerate to mention this to the servant or mistress In the morning ; and at Intervals , where guests are entertained nt meals , 'tis the proper nnd polite thing to tip the servant wfto wails on your table. Invariably give your landaldy a pleasant good morning nnd n kindly glance on meet ing In the hallway. In sending her your check or money always enclose it In an envelope , seal and address it and either send it to her room or place It at her plate at the breakfast table. If she Is a busy , re served woman , who does not take her meals with the boarders and you have any re quest cr complaint to make/ , offer It In writing. If , however , you arc on more or I birds at ? 1 each Is the next'lnvestmcnt. I should not ndvise the purchase of othc birds until after n young family had bcei raised. In about three months' time , if nl prospers , a family of fifty birds at leas should be peeping forth upon this wicket world. "Convert part of them Into mane ; nt $1.50 as soon ns practicable ; selling thirty each brings you $ -15 , which should bo In vested In hnlf a dozen gold finches nt $2 ns many siskins nt $ l.fiO each and twelve Java sparrows at $2 apiece. This will use uo vour $45. Three or four months hence another famll ; of Bnngsters arcon hand , appealing to your care and tender mercies. REARING AND SELLING. Birds , as a rule , mate two or three times a year , nnd It Is certainly safe to count upon two good hatchings of three birds each. The young birds ( malw ) are taken at the ago of six weeks , as they can then crack seed and are placed In largo cages , twcntj birds , perhaps , to n cage , until they arc through moulting : this moulting proctas re quIrrH about six weeks ; their education then begins. They nre carried away from the sound 'of all singing canaries. Into u room having a small opening at the top , and In the room above them -Is kept a skylark nightingale , or some o\her line whistling birds n bird of thU description , by the way Is Included in your first purchase. It is from thla instructor , the young birds get their beautiful notes , the bow-trill , the hell-note the water-note and the flute. At the age of six months they become adepts at singing und arc ready for the market. An extra fine singer should bring not less than $1 or $5. If you do not live near a bird fancier , any birds you wloh to purchase are easily scnl by express , and even during the coldest weather , with perfect safety to health. Nightingales and skylarks arc always kept at the bird stores. If room can be devoted to the young birds just setting up housekeeping , no much the better. Have plenty of light and ventilation , a quantity of smull trcej , feeding boxes , water for bathing and drinking , nnd on the sides of the room n quantity of ncs'o , ami the floor covered1 with line oand three Inches deep. In such a room ns this , eighty hlrdo or moi'j can bo placed. The young will be hatched peacefully and live Ilko ono happy family. THU room should bo kept constantly at un even temperature of 70 degrees. One of the best ways to teach a bird to fly and return , or to go out of doors perched upon the finger or tihoulder. Is first to tczuo it with a soft feather In Its cage , leaving the door open. The bird will at first appear frightened but at length , will peck at the feather which should bo withdrawn. The bird soon thinking that It lica tnautered the feather , thereby gains confidence and will peck at the finger ; eon It will come out of the cage and perch upon the hand. The best singers among .canaries are the St. Andrcasberg , whlclt'canirs from n village of that , name in Gennaiiyr ; their song con tains delightful liell-nofefl. water bubble and long silvery thrills. They are expensive $5 to $ C each ; the best sugcrs ( of this breed are known as Compamnl canaries and are sometimes $15 each. Until ono has ac quired experience , she would hardly dare venture to commence rt-.cutrver with these birds. J n A word about outgo nnd Income. The original outlay ip : . Ten birds nt K l.f.Qf JM.OO Thirty birds ut Jl , 30.00 Ono Hhyltirk Ji * ) J fi.OO Seven breeding cnges at $2 .oo Seeds , etceteras f-- c- ( * Total V..A $75.00 Two hatchings durlrigthe year' of three birds each , can bo counted on , or six times thirty birds , which miikcu 180 birds. Ono hundred nro cold at $ l.GO.cucli , wo will say , or $100 ; of the remaining eighty birds , forty wo keep , the other forty being extra fine singers , and most accomplished ( learned In tricks ) bring Jl ench , or $1CO ; this added to $150 makes $130. It Is not a bad profit for the less than $100 expended. > | | MH Vlvlnii Sin-tori * ii WiiHl Ui-liillllllti- . Conspicuous among the pretty debutantes at the national capital Is .Miss Vivian Sar- torls , the eldctt daughter of .Mrs. Nclllo Grant Sartorls , who was presented at a reception given recently at the homo of her grandmother , Mrs. Grant , widow of General U. S. Grant. Miss i-artorln lies lived a very quiet life of study under prlvcto tutors. Her mother had decided that the daughter should ho educated tinder her own eye. Her wisdom ban been demonstrated In the result , and Miss Vivian Sttrtorlu U ono of the mo.it modest aud welMnfornicd tlrla In her set. | She Is n btunctte. although her hair U n golden brown tint , as wna her inoiher'n nt the same nge. Her eyes * nnd brows arc dark nnd her complexion Is n rlrh olive. She Is of medium height nnd Inclined to plumpncM , nnd retiring In disposition. With all who meet her she Is a favorite. Tha her personality will make nn Impression I the social world -uvuircd. . Horn In London seventeen years ago , Mls Snrlorls will not be eighteen years old uutl spring. Yet t-he Is n woman In mind nm education. She possestcs n voice of grc.i natural sweetness and power. It has no been cultivated , because her relatives have bifn very careful that she should not bo forced while young. It Is the Intention o her mother to have her take vocal lessons during the winter. Mlsj Sartorls speaks Trench almost like n native1 , but she lays no claim to being n llngtilrt. A well known at (1st ( , who made her portrait , has said th.it she has the "mojt boautlful neck and shoulders ever seen. " The marriage of her mother , Miss Nclllo Grant , In the White house , during General Grant's second presidential term , was nil event of national Importance , although the lucky man , Algernon Sartorls , was an En glishman , nnd the distinction of marrying In the White house fell to a Hrltlyher. In the presentation and development of her grandchildren. Mrs. U. S. Grant Is forget ting the domestic shadows that the unfortu nate career of Mr. Sartorls brought upon her beloved daughter nnd the entire family Kor sevetnl years the cscapadep of the hus band were n source of great mortification , but as he has dropped out of sight of late the family has been enjoying unwonte < peace. A I * It I.MA HOXX VS 1103112. ] > | IIIMVlnrt Mine. Mflln Hprml * Her Vacation. Mclba Is ut home only about seven weeks In the year , but she keeps her elegant apart ments In Paris the year round , nnd finds no headquarters on earth to equal No. 9 Rue do 1'rony. There It Is her delight to rest , to look over her beautiful new dresses ( and those with association laden , but nose so fresh ) , to visit her boy her big. bounc ing boy of 12. who comes from I ndon will his tutor and to study up her peitts of tri umph for the coming season. It Is Interesting to try to conjecture n woman's appearance from the dominating colors of her room. No on would ever ex pect a brunette mistress to entertain among the blue laden gllntlngs of Sybil Sander son's boudoir. Mrs. Langtry loves Nile green ; 1'attl , 'rose ; Calve , red ; Sarah llern- hardt. old gold. Mary Anderson Is ona ol the most liberated of her sex In regard to color , being bound rnthnr by the form ol her surroundings and loving a pillar bet ter than either mauve or violet. Old rose and olive bathe ths suite apart ments where the brunette Australian prlma donna "rests. " These two tints predominate. in carpet , curtain , drapery , cushions , frame and tassel. Where the gracious gleams are not , they 'seem to bo from association , so tastefully arranged are the pieces , for house. hold decoration Is one of Melba'a fads. The style of her apartments Is wholly Maria Antoinette and Josephine. Gil frames , dlrectolro upholstery , bandy-leggci tables. Inlaid cabinets , buffets , beds , divans mantel ornaments nil are modeled after thn taste of the times of the folly queen. ' - mislaid her destiny , and of the Man of Eu rope , who created his. A taste that Is for eign to Kranro Is shown In the pres ence of complete carpets all over the house , and the absenceof the customarj waxed polish that makes most French floors like skating rinks. > Her sleeping room Is ns charming a bowci as her salons. Thn bed Is n genuine Mnrle Antoinette , on which the queen bad nctunlly slept. It stands on n little raised dais The cover Is heavily embroidered. The dressing table Is like that of any dainty lady. Pictures , flowers and portraits of friends are scattered about. Her boy's room across the hall. Is nil white nnd yellow , will books nnd pictures to suit his taste. Mclba has been singing but eight years Her maiden name was Mitchell , her father being a Scotchman , her mother of Spanlsl descent. Krom the latter she Inherited her musical gift ; and ns a girl she was ono o the best pianists In Melbourne , her native city. At 17 she married sorrow and the name of Armstrong. To drown grief she followed the Instinct that led her to n pub lic career. Her people , as Is usually the cnse , were strongly opposed to the step nlthough now accepting It with the success It has brought. She hns three brothers and three sisters nil clever. Ono of the boys Is going to bo a remarkable singer. When her father was appointed n commissioner to ono of the Lon don exhibitions , ho brought the family with him to Europe , and Melba Immediately com menced serious1 study with Marches ! , whom she never left for any other teacher , am by whom she swears ' _ So milint ( Arc of ( iint Illxtorlo lll- tiTCNl , \ < il Merely I'layllilnuN. It may fcurprlso the hoys and girls who consider the making of a button-string as a suitable amusement for the babies of the family only to Hear that many "grown-ups" find pleasure In the same thing. Of course , n "grown-up's" button-Firing is apt to be slightly different from that of the young sters. Usunlly It is spoken of ns a collec tion of rare or curious buttons. The most Interesting button-strings are those composed of historic buttons , buttons that have fastened the garments of historic personages. A New York lady has a very valuable1 button-string. One of the buttons once adorned the coat of the "Little Corporal" after he become the great Emperor Nape leon. It has his profile clear-cut on Its tur- facc. A modest Ilttlo gray cloth button loses Its Insignificance when Us owner tells you that It was ono of n row thnt fastened a walking gown of Queen Victoria's. An ar tistic button In pears and priceless lace once adorned a ball dress worn by the unfortu nate Empress Eugenie. More Interesting than any of these repre sentations of royalty Is n pathetic , shabby button , which , could It talk , would tell talcs of hunger , nnd cold. lon < v. weary marches , feet that bled at Valley Forge , voices that 6heered and eyes that wept , all for liberty. It Is a button cut from an old nrmy coat of George Washington's. As a companion to this American button there Is n little rusty , black cloth disk that traveled the world over with Benjamin Franklin. Almost every great soldier of modern times has added a button to the collection. Florence Nightingale , of Cri mean fame , to whom the world owes Its trained nurses , Is represented by n pink cam bric covered button. Thackeray oneo wore n suit of gray broadcloth , evidently , for a mold covered with that material Is ono of ( ho prizes of the collection. A similar button covered with brown broadcloth was once worn by Dickens. A button ctrlng that would Illustrate the nany stages In the evolution of the button would be very Interesting. Everything under the Mm almost has been uoed In the man ufacture of buttons. There have- been but- nn.s of gold and silver , buttons of Iran and jone , and recently a process has been dls- : ovcred bv which potatoes mav bo solidified nlo very handsome buttons. There are pearl mttons. wooden buttons and buttons of vegetable Ivory , horn buttons belong almost to a past ace. The few that nro now placed on the market come from Franco. Yet It Is scniccly half a century since M. Basset of ' Introduced buttons made from Iiotifa. They become very popular and made n French saying which runs , "Set n button at right angles with n woman's eye and ahe'll make on a millionaire. " Horn buttoni made many millionaires before they went out of fashion. Otiecn Elizabeth must have been very fond of buttons , as ahc was of nil sorts of dccor.i- lotifi. It was during her reign that men's and women'fi clothes first blossomed out In he merit gorgeous dlaplay of buttons of nil sizes and HJmpcs. Curiously enough , but- ons seem to have boon ornamental before hov were useful. It was In Elizabeth's tlmo hat buttonmaklng developed Into n regular rade. Afterward Birmingham became ) n ; reat buttonmaklng center. A greet many unions are made In the United Staten. Vnl- anlte buttons are exclusively an American irodtict. \VOMI\ WHO iir.vr. \ll KlnilH of ( in mi- Kill I Ileforc Them .Spi-Hiil \ \ ' < -IIIIIIIN for Tin-ill , A newspaper eald the either day that as rlllu shooting required a uleady ncrvo airi a good eye few women were capable of using he most dsllcato of firearms. As o matter f fact , rays the New York Sun , when a vomani has had an equal ehauco with men t rlflo practice the lias more than demon- RlraJcd hrr ability to equal man with the woiiiion. Every year women go to Mnlno. < n CSH- ndn to the llockle ? . lo Africa , to Indi.i. and shoot deer from runways , moose from boM nnd tigers from the harks of c'cphiim * . They rlso take their alpcn-stork and strap crampons on their feet , te > seek ( he rii.imoli of the bleak Alps , and It Is pleartiiR to note that the dlillcultlcs of the- precipice nnd the , jhjnras of much-hunted game are not tool much for the huntress , with cheeks nuule | I rosy by the' thin cold nlr of high altitudes , { i since &h < < fetches her game- down man-fnsh- ; Ion. So far as Is known no woman has | I ever killed an elephant , but lions , tigers ? , i I grizzly , Russian and black boars , panthers. , I leopards , tiger ? , lions , deer of most If not . nil kinds , nnd the uplands , long shore , nnd [ sen birds hnvo fallen when women have l pressed the- triggers of their weapons. So Important hns woman become In the hunting field that the manufncluicra have had to pay special attention to weapons for , her use. The guns must not be so heavy as those for men. The coming of smokeless powders nnd long , slender bullets Hied from six or seven pound rifles has put women on a footing beside men , for the new rifles will kill anything. Kiinhloii .Voli'o , Corsets of brocaded * atln with jeweled class | are one of the season's novelties. Silk moreen Is a new material for petti coats. It U fully n yard wide nnd comes In n variety of colors. A novel muff and cnpc long enough to reach to the elbows nre made of coquc feathers , with the breast feathcis for the yoke. Long cloaks of brocaded silk , cloth and un cut velvet , made with bishop sleeve's and trimmed with fur , arc worn with evening dress. Conceceton to the prevailing daze lor elaboration Is apparent only in the stylish ve-sts which accompany bnusome tailor gDwns. The fashionable fan Is n veritable toy , It Is so small. The empire Is the approved style In the tiniest size , nnd It Is more beau tifully ornamented than ( jvcr. The dress skirt bids Mir to more than rival the bodice In exe-eva of elaboration , and the elegant simplicity which not long ngo was conspicuous hi woman's attire has now al most entrely vanished. One of the special feature's of the season's modes Is the use of velvet fr entire1 gowns , wraps , waists , bolero jackets , bodlco trim mings , and e'ountlcss modes of combination which make U so popular. The sleeve which wns worn In the early part of the century Is the latest model shown just nt present. U Is closo-flttlng from the wrist , where It flares over the hand to the elbow , and nbove this Is n puff which gathers full Into the armhole. Silks , moires nnd brocades are In highest vogue and most active ) demand , and furs of every elegant grade and quality have developed capabilities of elegance and style In shape , cut and adjustment which have never prevailed before. The late-st Idea In bodices shows n tendency to mnke the sides of the front nnd bnck different. A fan-shaped plaiting of satin like the skirt covers one-half of the front of an evening dress , and tulle nnd colored vel vet nro artistically combined In the other. Empire muffs of velvet , lined with fur , nre made up this season , and the latest style of fur mulT has a lining of the same fur. Other novelties in fur are the bolero Jackets , trimmed arnu.id with cream lace or othcr- wlso decorated with nppllquo designs In beads. Chest protectors of brocaded silk In bright , dainty colors , arei made for women to wear with evening dress. They are shaped some what on the plan of a bolero Jacket without armholes , meet at the neck In front , where they tic across with ribbon , and are finished with a little standing collar. A blouse bodice of black velvet , covered back and front with n lattice trimming of gold cord , and turquoise beads tot In nt In tervals , BO that there Is a head nt each crossing , Is very effective with n wide corslet belt , of blnck sntln , n blnck satin collar , and plain sleeves of velvet with a small pulT at the top. Distinction in dress Is a difficult matter with the vnrlcty of colored embroideries , laces , and diversity of materials In use * this season , but n successful wny to nttnln It Is to have a plain costume of some soft color like gray or brown , and put the note of color In the hat and muff , with an umbrella to match. Dancing slippers are made to match the gown , and rhlneatono nnd pearl embroidery Is the finish , but when this style' of shoe la not nractlcablc. bronze and black kid embroidered with brown and jet beads nro quite ns gooJ style. Slippers to match the gloves are frequently worn , and the half-low shoe of finest kid Is always correct. A smart little Paris gown of sage-gray cloth has a seven-gored skirt and a charming coat-bodice , cut with bolero fronts , nnd ar ranged with pleated and cascaded Jabot of Danish red , and green checked silk. This Jabot parts , revealing n narrow white rcpped silk vest covered with Irldcrcent bead gimp. The bodice Is finished with a pointed glrdlo made entirely of the glittering trim ming. The tailors happily nro returning to that severity of cut characteristic of their ear liest achievements ar wnmnn'n tailors. The coat nnd skirt are now ns they used to be , plain nnd simple , the sleeves reduced al most to the dimensions of the close-fitting coat shapes of long ago. There Is no re dundancy of basque. It fits close. It Is neither very long nor absurdly short ; Its frllllnct.3 has quite disappeared ; the rovers are nunlly shaped. The skirts nro moderate In width , with the fullness kept well to the back. A "picture hat , " nlthough most' becom ing , nnd grown moro and more fashion able , has Its responsibilities. The woman who wears It with a box coat , a reefer jacket or nn English cutaway , finished with a manly necktie and scarfpln , Is guilty of a heinous offense. The graceful lines of the plcttiro lint , with Its soft , sweeping plumes and dainty velvet flowers , cannot properly bo worn with anything masculine or even severe in Its effect. To thus treat this hvautlful head covering would bo n crime ngalnst the laws of art , good taste and consistency. Among deml-dress toilets coat-bodices with lackot fronts and pleated belto.il Russian > acks , are worn with vests of eoinc rich bro cade or of n diaphanous textile , accordlon- ileatcd and draped over plain satin of some > ecomlng tint. Long , slender tabs lined with contrasting color nre cut at the bnck of many of the cloth bodices , whllo others are jattlemcnted both bnck and front. Flat bre- elles are tabbed and deeply pointed , staini ng out well on the shoulders and often con Inuing on In a tapering form to the waist Inc. As n rule , the high flaring collar Is abbod and lined to correspond. It Is not nescssnry for the woman of mod- st means , who loves , for Instance , dainty nces , to select a poor Imitation of a real mnd-mado design. The stores everywhere irovldo her with beautiful "fancy" laces that mltalo nothing , hut appear upon their own charming , attractive ) merits , laces produced iy almost miraculous Intricate machine pro cesses dcllcatn of pattern , dnlnty as n rob- veb. nnd beautiful enough In effect to satisfy nny but a critic lavish of means nnd so prod- gal of money and the. rarities It can pro- Ido. that nothing In the world Is quite righter or quite good enough for satiated tastes. I'VlllinllH- I en. Mary Cowdcn Clatko spent sixteen ycara on the "Concordance to Shakespeare. " Mrs. W. II. Vanderbllt has bequeathed ; 250,000 to enlarge the work of the St. Bar holomow Mlsalon of New York City. Gladstone's little granddaughter , Dorothy ) rew , never wears Hhoeii nnd stocklng . either In the house or out of doors , except vlien she Is In town. The wife of William Black , the novelist , .s taller than her husband , and In one of hlu looks he makes laughing reference to the act , calling her Queen Tllanln. .MlKH Ruth Cleveland , the precildcnt'H lit le daughter , ban named u pair of her favor te ponied "Arabella" and "Aramlnta , " nti > r a couple of little girls In a story book she ms been reading. MUs Laura Wyllo , I'll. I ) . , has been madi Hsotlate professor of English at Vassnr col ego. Other tcnchem added to the faculty t this time are Mlis Rogers , Mte Huhhell , Hun Stark and MUi Carter. The notorious Louise Michel , who Is really most kind hearted and generous as well s a clover woman , has written and arranged ar the publication in 1'arls of a history of bo Insurrection of 1871 , She In now In Lon- don. nnd , nfler n short stuv , will start on 1 n lecturing tour In the I'nitci ! Stales. Nine women hnvo their names enrolled amonj , the 612 celebrlllcs who find a plnco upon the memorial tablets of the new llos- ton public library. The names nro as fol lows : Maria Mitchell , Mine , do Sinel. Oeorgo i Eliot. Chnrlolto BronteMarl.i IMgworth , , ( Jcorgc ul. Margaret Fuller , Jnno Austin nnd Mary Pomervlllc. Mlln. Nlklin , who roads , writes nnd ape.iks1 Seven langu igrs. In addition to being an nrllst of note , has. on account of her vocal success , been presented with the title ot court singer of the court of Snxo ( . 'ohurg- Golha. She hnd previously iccelU'd several gold nnd silver medals from Institutions In normally. France nnd Russia. Mrs. Margaret Sulllv.in o * Chlc.igo , a mem * her of the edltorlil staff of n prominent paper , who was compelled to retire from ac tive service by reason of a stroke of p.irnl- ysls , has been connected with well known newspaper * In Chicago for thirty years po t. She hati written editorials which have at tracted widespread attention. MI.--S Elizabeth Ney of Aut-tin. Tex. , wlioao work ns n Hculptor has recently come Into prominence , has executed a bust of the queen of Hanover. Mley Ney Is n gr.itul- niece ot Nnpolonn'H famous nUuwlul othnt iinino. nndear . ago wan uoll niqunlntcil with lllsmnivk , Llcblg. Garibaldi and other etntrsmcn nnd vcholnrs. Many pcrsmu think she resembles Rosa llonheur. Mine. Marehcsl. the well known vocal teacher of Paris , has recently celebrated the fortieth anniversary of her commencing to train pupils for the lrk atagc. She Is ono of the Ilnest lady linguists In the world , speaking eight limguages fluently. She con- slders Mine. Melba. her favorite pupil , the givateiH singer In the world. Mine. Man-hcBl wns n pupil of Gnrela , who ( might Jenny Llnd nnd Mallbrnn. Mile. Mnrle Vnn Xnndt linn taken I'aiU by storm. The Opera Combine ( n crowded every night to Hear her nweot voice In the opera "Lakmo. " This gifted singer wns nlwn > s a fiivorlto In Paris , anil , all hough It Is soveml years since she appeared here , critics say on all sides that she Is moro won derful than ever. Oil the opening night the applause wns simply n storm , nnd Mile. Van Zandt ediowcd con.il'ler.ihte ' emotion In ac knowledging the tribute. i Slgnorn Cousluo of South America , who Is undoubtedly the i Idlest woman In the world , hns Just purchased n new mine anil two moro ranches. Her silver nnd copper mines nre now yielding $100,000 per month , her coal mines yield $85.000 per month. Her stock farms , for thoroughbred Horses and c : ttlo , at present bring nn Income which exceeds that of all the mines put together. In nddltltm she hns largo landed Interests and n Heel of steamships. Owing to some recent legal business she hns shown her self to ho n most capable business woman. The Archduchess Mnrlo Anunclntn of Austria hns been mndo the head of n most Interesting Institution for women , cnllcil the Prague Hrndsohem Stlft. which Is a most exclusive organization. It Is not a convent , hut Is a homo for the unmarried daughters of the nrtlslocraoy. Each lady has her own suite * of rooniH. furnished lux- i.rlonsly. also her own servants and an nl- lownnco of money. Carriages nro at their disposal , also a box at the theater. A mem ber of the Stlft hns the title of frail , In stead of frnuleln. She can go In society without n chaperon or may act ns chaperon If she desires , j Mine. Yale's Great Remedies. WHY EVERY WOMAN SHOULD USE THEM No ono \vlll attempt to dispute ( lie fuel that It Is to n woman's nilvnntacc to lie KnoJ looking ; tlie-refore It Is an tu ini nnip lty that eve-ry woman makes It a | ir.ictlc > i > to take i-nre of hr- Ki'lf ami HFC every menus known In i-iilimirr her liliyMcal iioifd-tlon , ami tlicirliy ii-tnln her eclf- rcsprct and linpplnt'HH. Tin1 advnm-ed mcthoilx "f Lvnutlf ) IMR bii sue- cetsfiilly rniployeil by Mine. Yahenalilc t-very woman In tlw Inml to ri > KUlap her own beauty am ! InrrriiFf * her KOOI ! looUs fveiy < lay. When Mine. Yale llrft made her illcmcrlri die did nut nfk any one lo use- them until Mil * herself liad done HO. She iliil not malco u elalm Tor them until flic licitvlf hail bernme heaiitiriil fumi their UK : ami now. at the UK ? of t' > . ami after uslntf her own lemeilU'S for twenty-two > enrH , hho la eelelinite.l n the most lieautlful unman living , l.s it grain ! ilemonstratlun of w.iat her lemetllea will il ; therefnrc thin IH why e\ery woman in the land Hlioulil use Mine. Vale's lemedleH , and use- plenty of them and , crow beautiful and be come happy. YALE BEAUTY PRICE LIST. Yule's Skin I'ood ( for wrinkles ) 2 clzoH H.50 nnd J.CO a Jar Yulc'H Compleklnn Cream l.fO a Jar Ynlo'H Cumpleklon lllvach 2.00 a hottlo Yale's l xcejtlor Hair Tonic 'l.iltl a bottln Yale's Ilalr C'leanser I.IH ) a boltln Yale's I .a Krrrlcla ( for freckles ) IM a botlln Yalc'H Special IjitloiXfor blaukheadx ) 1.0) a. buttla Ynlc'a .Special Ointment , ( for plmpleH nnd Rkln dlseapep ) . . . . 1.00 a Jnr Yale1 Hand Whltcne'r l.lfl a buttla Yale's 1'ac-e 1'owder. . Yale'H Complexion Konp Ynle'H Mllxlr of lleanty ( tkln tonle ) . l.flO a Imttln YnlCH'B Kcitlllzer ( cures coiutlpotlcin ) l.r.O a bultln Yale's Illood and I.lvcr Tonic l.ln ) a buttlu Yale'H Kitiltcurii , ( for female weakness ) . l.'Xl a bottla Sulil Ii- All MniKKlNlN n nil Dl'lllCTH. Mine. Yale's "Guide to Beauty. ' Will be mailed free upon application. Addree.s me. M. Yale. Temple of I-nil ly. Chicago Kor rale by HUSTON STOIli : Dllt't ! UKIT. , Omalia , N'cb. Wo inl Hi" 1'roncli Ilfinedy C/VLTHOU tiff. " ' i ) ! > uJ lesal ijiiarjtiU'ixl' ' < 11.TIKIS will KTOI * lllx.-lil.ri'k I ir.il. : lgu , Cl'lir. ' * pt.rrnittorrhcti. Vurlcurelo anil ItlChTOKI. l.o > t vle r. UiC it and ( ay ifiatisfieJ. VON r.TOIlt , CO. , 332 B , Amrrlran irfrftU , CiarlnnitlOhio. JEWESS ft HEAD NOISES CURED , ' , BJis ; 'flWv ' v.TrAlWKisi , slej3 fitnd t1 % II l.nn F . . * ! l r.'mf.X. V . for HookI'r r.rlltt ; m on MORPHINE HABIT Co" PAINLESSLY & PIRMAHtNTlt CURlO es. is. c PAINLESS < ® P3yiftl ANTIDOTE ORIGINAL AND ONLY GENUINE REMEDY. Discovered In IOCS. "TIIERIAKI" Book Frco. Office 312 , 78 Monroe Street , nnrAflft P.O. Drawer 063. UlItAUU , A Handsome Complexion Is one of the ftrcatcut charms a woman can pOBBCSH. 1'OZZOIIl'tt COUI'UUCION I'OWUUU BlVt'lit.