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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Dec. 13, 1896)
TITIS OMAHA DAILY 11EE : SUNDAY. DECEMIVHR 1 , 1800. 10 IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. ' Ki m S . S mmm I I i i t I I i I' * ' ( i I t I t I As CI.OTIII.S. : jtrlulit ntiit llriiiillfnl SnltN for ( li I. title I'ruitlr. NBW YOIIK. Dec. 10. Tlicro Is no deny ing the fact Hint ts tlio years go by tlio clothIng - Ing of children Is more nnd more consUcrcd. Indeed , tlicro IB scarcely a JiiVcnllo function nou.iilnyo Hint does not cnll for imu dis tinctive costume. especially If the wcaret Is of tlio cofler tea ; but It docs not follow tlml cneh of tlicw costumes ticeds lo be bought ready made , or Hint the matsrlals must lie of the finest when they nro fnsblono.l at home. OlirliitinoH party clothes for bot'.i boyn nnd Klrla nio now declared to bo quite nti Im portant nH the Christmas tree Itself. The KOwnK of the girls must bo light In color nnd elegantly made , nnd the get-up ol' the lioyg muni bo their dreariest ; a velvet court cult nnd Incc frilled shirt front for the smaller boys , nnd n blnck broadcloth tnilt , confuting of an eton jacket , n vest , nnd longer or nhort trousers for the older lndn. Informal dancing now followu every Christ mas tree gathering , v/lmther In the after- i > eon or ovcnlng. nnd the nttlro of the small KiicstH muul bo of the same nature nH that worn by their ciders on their festive occa sions. That the children enjoy the Christ mas portion more when miltnbly dressed goes WHITE MULL OVEIl YELLOW SILK. without paying. Then n gnlo of finery gives eclat to the oT.iyion ; nnd It sooriiH only just that the kind Krh < Krlngle should hnvo this llttlo trlbuto paid hint after all the good bo lias done In the world. OAY FLOUNCES. Let us begin with tho. girls. If they arc very Binall their Christinas frocks may bo niado from an older sister's outgrown gown , or ono of mamma's old evening skirts may form a foundation to be covered entirely with some Inexpensive stuff. Swiss , mull , or dotted muslin nro nil charming over colored silk , and Inserts of yellow Valen ciennes Ince In the llttlo bodlco and skirt will glvo n touch of elegance. Tim white mull and Inco frock Illustrated will provide an excellent model for a girl from -4 to 7. The silk foundation should bo mndc separate from the outside , which Is entirely without lining for washing con venience , nnd t < o the lace Inserts may lie directly over the silk umlcrsllp. This Is cut oxnctly the shape of the outside frock nnd ls best when hlgh-nccked .and the llttlo bodice lined with thin book muslin. A short puff of the silk forms the tinder- Blreves , which nro covered by others of frilled muslin. Low neck nnd short alcoves Is n very pretty f null ion for llttlo maids who do not cntch cold easily. Hut oven when the neck of the gown needs to bo high , the sleeves may be short , and If the llttlo nrms nro round nnd dimpled a narrow gold bracelet will udd much to their beauty. A nnrrow ribbon tied tight nround the wrist , with a bow outside , nlso sets off n dainty hand and nrm nnd gives a quaint old-fashloncd look that Is very fetching. For the neck there arc any number of thin gold chains FOR A OIllL OF TEN. . with heart-shaped or round enameled lock- els that arc worn with both high and low townu. i Thin wool materials , delilne , barege , cashmere - more , etc. , In pile colors make charming and tnoxpunslvo party frocka when trimmed with narrow patln ribbons or black velvet or lace. An odd silk or satin aklrt In the same color will also provide an excellent foundation for Ihceo and add much to their elegance. AN ADMIUADLE DESIGN. 'As to model , a full gathered skirt towed to a short body with low neck and puff llecvcs I a dc Ign much In favor for Klrls from 4 to 10. A ulgh-ncckcd , lang-sleovcU rnuilln or ellk gulmpe will bo worn under the tx > dlco by all ages ; but for the older girls the body may bo varied by alt ports of abort Jacket effects , tiny ctoni that go all the way round ami provide extra warmth , or clto just llltlo bolero fronti to give a jacket look. The mallojt scrap of velvet or vllk will form thow bolero frontu. ai the shorter they are the more cocky they arc considered. Then , If the velvet or ellk used In made-over mate rial , defects may bo bidden with a cover ing ot thick lace or a braiding of gilt or Mack. The last trimming will give a look ot extreme rlchuni , especially If the braiding li done on volvet. Vat Blrll tram 10 tn 1C turtv frnnlr. li.u * either ft high bodlco or else the neck cut out In a little Marguerite * quaro that thows i/carcely more than the shell of the throat. A round neck simply nnlrred , as Is shown In n gown on this pige , may be worn by the older girls , but In no cjso muni bo decollctagc bo very markeJ. Gored aklrtti for girls from 12 years up are often trimmed with ono or more narrow frills cJged with lace narrow velvet or satin ribbon. If the frill Is eleven Inches deep ono Inch may take up the head ing , and to put It on with a gathering over onu or two cords will form a trim ( InUh. million H.iohes from four to five Inches wide arc wcrn by girls from 4 years up. They cnclrclo the wnlst snugly , ending at the balk with two rosettes , or a bow , nnd ends that touch the skirt bottom. WHITE TOILETS. Sashes of Ivory white satin and sleeve twists of the name , form n beautiful nnd Blmplo trimming for plain velvet gowns , which by the way are considered this seanon Hi smartest get tip for girls from 0 to 12. The little frocks are severely simple , with n gathered skirt , low body nnd short puff sleeves. Hut deep collars or brctellcs of splendid Inco may fall from the round neck of the bodice , which Is worn over n high long-sleeved gulmpe , nnd no other trim ming could he more elegant or effective than the white satin sash and tlccvc twists mentioned. llil.s fine rig IH much affected by lltt'iQ maids In the umarl .set , for opera , matinee : ! , birthday parties nnd other festive use. The gown Is In black , wine-red or sapphire-blue , nnd n narrow white Batln ribbon ties back the simply parted hair , while white kid gloves , blark silk stucklngit and patent leather shnca are considered other elegant accessories. To reproduce the same sinnrt effect nl less expense Liberty velveteen In the same colors could be used. Then any number of handsome brctelles nnd collarettes maybe bo found In the shops very cheap , that 1m- Unte to a nicety the rich Russian nnd real 1'olnt do Vcnlso laces , which are worn by the small fry n : < well as by the growsups. For girls from G to 1C the children's furnlEhlng shops show delightful little party frocks In striped and figured taffeta silks , pliln Ktirahs , and silk gauzes of nil sorts. Thcso are all In good style nnd ad- mlrablo taste and many of the silk frocks Hccm astonishingly cheap. SOME MODEL DRESSES. One for a young lady of M was marked $22. This wns of figured taffeta , blurred greenish moons on a ping background , with nn effective yoke collar of white silk mus lin and other trimmings of yellow Valen ciennes Inco and green ribbon velvet. A design of this Is given on this page , nnd It may be recognized by the Inco bands which run from the yoke half way down the klrt apron. A very stunning little dress for n girl of 12 was of pink mid whlto striped silk , with white chiffon wine-colored vel vet on the bodlco. The model of this was n gored skirt and bnby bodice with looped puff sleeves nnd Mnrgucrlte neck. A tiny ( liillllng of the white chiffon gnve n , girl ish finish to the decolletag. ? . nnd. them were double brctnlles of the same , edged with wine-colored baby velvet that fell over the sleeves. A crush belt of the wine velvet on the bias also finished the waist. This smart llttlo toilet Is likewise here Illus trated. , . Ono thing , however. Is observed In nil the juvenile finery seen everywhere. As long ns missy Is nt the rcnlly little girl stage she may wear plcndld stuffs guloro ; but tlio moment she strikes her teens her gown l > e- comra Instantly simple In make and material , according to the most approved French taste for young girls. FOR LITTLE MASTERS. H Is the same even with boyc. Velvet court suits for boya up to 8 have the short jacket and knco breeches often richly braided , and the lace Jabot on the shirt front which Is eltVer of white , or the finest nainsook , or mull may bo real. Hut by the time Master Jack Is 10 years old times have changed indeed. Then his party eult must luvo a mannish air , be of black broad cloth pcrfcrably. nnd made in the way shown In the Illustration until the proper ago shall lengthen hla trousers. The shirt of nno whlto linen allows narrow tucks at most at the front , but the turnover col lar must be severely plain. Sometimes n black silk braid stripes the trousers of these suits at the outside seam , and In that case there Is n finish of the same on the Jacket. More commonly , how ever , there Is only the strlpo on the trousers ; but If the young gentleman has a hankering to bo fine ho may wear with this plain milt a vest of whlto brocade or elee ono of bright red cloth , English boys above 8 years of ago wear long trousers , with the cton Jackets for their beat get up. From 8 down to the skirt ago the trousers may bo knee length , and for nil festive occasions the stockings are of blank ullk and the shoes patent leather pumps. The hair Is worn without a part , cropped straight acrusa the forehead nnd brushed smoothly down. NINA FITCH. THU OKHMAN FUAUI.KI.V. She Him IliTiiino a ropulur Institution 111 AllllTlCllll IIOIINpllOlllH. There la scarcely a household among the "rich and the great" of America today that does not Include its German frauleln , many mothers preferring her to other foreign governesses on account of certain _ stalwart moral as well OB Intellectual qualities. She is more patient nnd gentle , less quick tempered nnd radiates generally an atmos phere of truth nnd sincerity. Her llttlo charges are taught to not tell lies , to deal honestly with ono another , In fact to prac tice all the more homely , simple virtues. Nor Is the stimulating Influence upon the Imagination of a child to be taken Into Email account. Steeped , as she Invariably Is , In the rich legend and fairy lore of her "deep- thinking , mystical Vatcrland , " she almost unconsciously develops the Imaginative fac ulties , Inducting a child Into the very spirit and CKsenco of German thought , paying the way for the easier comprehension In later years of the underlying symbolism of a Faust nnd the great world mysteries of tho. NleboluiiKcn. Still more Important Is the noble literature to which a knowledge of the German language opens the way. In fact the advantages arising from this system of early training are not to bo enumerated and the man who wants to add n year or two of German university llfo to hla course at Harvard or Yale can never bo grateful enough for thai trick o * speech that renders It the moro accessible. REQUIREMENTS OF THE GOVERNESS. Every year Is bringing to our shores more and more of these educated foreigners who are able In most cases to place themselves advantageously through the Teachers' bu reau. Many others are brought back by American families from their travels abroad , and still others come through the luterposl- tlon of friends already hero. Most of our multl-mllllonalrcs , however , depend en tirely upon some reliable agency for this addition to their household. There arc families who require In the ono person a teacher ot various languages. The Ideal way , however , U to uavo a native for each separate tongue. Suppose , for Instance , one begins with a German frauleln who can perhaps teach elementary French and after German bos been thoroughly mastered , employ a finishing teacher In French. There nro two classes ot governesses , the nursery and the finishing governess. The first Is supposed to take the child at 3 or ) years of ago and continue with It until It la perhaps I'D or 12 yearn old. The requirements ot the nursery governess Is that eho shall have bad a good high school education , that elio shall bo able to teach her own language and perhaps nn- other ono correctly , the common branches In EnglUh , and many require that she shall teach music also. In almost all cases the education of the German frauleln hns been more thorough than that of the French governess , that all bureaus Insist , as far as possible , that all should have passed state examinations. Such a governess , of course , performs no port of a maid's duties , such an dressing the children , putting them to bed , etc. Buo U auppcued to teach during the morning , to take them out usually In the park In the afternoon , during which time she , of course , speaks her own language with them , and then they all have tea together , after which her duties for the I day nre over , except In those rare cases where one Is expected to sew. Such nursery | governesses are usually from the good bour geois families , and arc paid from $20 to $30 a month nnd "found. " THEY EARN A GOOD LIVING. Tlio finishing governess Is often n German or French woman of high degree ; perhaps n 'member o ! same good old family tnt ! : hns lost Its money , and who , rather than lose \ caste nt home , seeks a career In the "gol.len ] country across the sea. " Many of these nro women of highest culture , speaking Eovcrnl langunges fluently , with a brond knowledge of music nnd nrt , nnd who nro up to date on nil points ot etlejiictto nnd decorum. | Finishing governesws receive ns n rule from $30 to jr > 0 a month In addition to nil living > expenses. Some very rich New York nnd . Boston families' , however , pay $100 n mouth. ; | but for this sum they require n woman of i the highest breeding nnd education. In those j families the governess ho-i her own private maid and butler n separate dining room be ing provided for her nnd the children nnd she la looked to to tench perfect table man ners with nil the rcvt. Though Amerlcnns , ns a rule , rightly CIIIUSTMAS 1JO.VTS. IH" < H of 11 Sc Clmrm-liT. Don't Blvo presents after you linvo com plained for weeks to nil your friends about the nuisance of the custom. Christmas can bo celebrated other ways , and giving gifts ungraciously Is ono of the most graceless things In the world. If you will give them nnd still bate to , keep your hate a secret. Don't take the tone that you are "cut up" FIGURED SILK. If eomo ono for whom you have nothing gives you a present. The thing la not anp- po cl to bo a matter of bargaining ; preserve a decent teniulaiice of a Christmas spirit , and repay the obllRatlon , not by n tarUy rcsponJInc gift , but In aomo other way at some other tlmo If you want to , Don't glvo any ono bric-a-brac or pic- turca unless you arc morally euro you know Ills taete , I'rcucntti that must bo displayed nra apt to bo a great strain on the affections ; no matter how the receiver may hate them ho muflt father them and deface tits rooms with tbrm , or Insult the glvur , Now a book , for Instance , even If the receiver don't Ilku It nij don't want It. can bo tucked away among other books and forgotten , but an ugly vase we have always with us nt least till wo can plausibly meet Mlh an accident nnd smash It , Don't write -your name or anybody elso'a on cards Ifyau nend them ; | no ono can keep n lot ot nuch. truck , nnd It Is often highly convenient Jtisl to send It on Its travels to carry Chrl&tmaa greeting to other people , and why nq ( ? ' Don't glvo presents In tup Wrappings they wore ecnt from the shop In ; llike \ \ throw ing a bono to a dog ; less cxponslve presents nnd n llttlo fancy paper and ribbon and n few sprays of holly nnd mistletoe adminis tered with tnsto will be n' deal more satis factory nnd Ohrlstmnsy. Don't negltet to lay In'ft stock of some slmpli things like handkerchiefs nnd eachet bags for ut.oxpected ctnorgericlts. If you like to meet various people with a reasonable ? token. ' Don't put everything off to1 the last , be cause you had better for the Joy of your friends give nothing than wear yourself out nub lie as doss net two tlcka when the blessed day comes. Do.i't oppress children who nro satiated to sadness with toys nlrt-ndy , by giving them moro ; ( hero nro other ways of making them happy , or If there nre not It Is because they nro satiated with every pleasure nnd nre the moat pitiful beings alive ; In thnt cnsc let them try doing something for poor chil dren who nro blessed In powers of enjoy ment nnd see If the capacity won't prove catching. OI.D-TIMK I < : MA < ; KMK.\T.S. Ken < tirt > < if Soi'litt I.lfc In the Kurly linyM of tin * IliMuilillc. Tor Helen Livingston there remained hardly one moro year of happy girlhood , free to come nnd go , dnnce nnd be merry , in the most Innocent girlish fashion , says n writer In the Century , for nt thnt time be trothal wns as sacred ns marrlngo Itself , nnd much more rtatrlctlvo of privileges. Thnt Is , the freedom of girlhood wns lost , nnd that of the matron had not come. If balls , the chafing dishes play an Important part , for out ot all fashion hns fallen the custom of what was rnlle l a "seated sup per. " That mennt the dining table pulled out to Us utmost limits nnd arrangements made for placing every one before n square meat In courses. Along with this awkwnrd method hns nlso disappeared the orthodox bnftet style of serving. When the hour for supper now arrives the dining room Is found converted Into n. species of high nrt restaurant , nnd n capable corps of men nnd maid servants do nway with the mad rush nnd plllngo by too hungry or too gallant young men guests. The discreet caterer , who has nn eye to nrtlstlc effects , ns well ns convenience , eg- tnbllshes In the four corners of the roomer or across one end n grotip of glnnt double bowl clmflng dishes. These glittering fur- nncce nre presided over by chefs In white who respectively prepare oysters , lobsters , currli'd fowl nnd terrnpln by the steaming qunrt or half gnllon. I'lntcs. forks , etc. , nro heaped on a center table , nt the head of which urns of boullllon. coffee nnd chocolate keep hot over alcohol ! nm | > s. nnd the butler or n capable hired head waiter maintains perfect order. TUB NEW TAIII.B. Ilo sees to It that the young men nre provided from n grent store In the back hnll with the new folding tablos. They nre made exactly like camp atools. only longer , broader nnd on high frames , with n patent Blip underpinning that keepn them from col lapsing. The light , canvnH-toppcd tnbles nre set nnywher.- the whim of groups or couples mny decide nnd the young men , assisted nnd directed by the servants , export deli cacies from the dining room. A wise nr- rnngemcnt Is the dishing up of all hot seml- lliiuld preparations , as terrnpln nnd lobster n la Newburgh , In smnll silver bowls , for by iloltig nway with ns much china na pos sible the- food Is kept very much hotter nnd breakage Is nvolded. The hot drinks , too , nro offered In silver cups , nud the most charmingly painted Russian platters answer ns plates for salad , croquettes , etc. IJy this clever _ _ device no china-loving y i + AROUND THE CHRISTMAS TREE. prefer yclioolH for their children there Is a Inrgo demand for these governesseo from a variety of reasons. Sometimes a child is ted backward to keep pace wlthl hlo fellows , and needs constant individual attention , or through Idleness hns fallen behind nnd re quires extra tutoring. In many families' , too , the finishing governess Is retained while the children nro in scftool for the purpose of assisting them In their lessons , keeping them up In langunges nnd music , nnd generally supervising their work. A very false Im pression often gets back to Germany In regard to the fabulous sums paid here for sucli teaching. In the richest families In America , $100 nnd "found" is nil that Is paid , whllo the best price for private lessons rarely runs over $2 an hour. MARION DEPEW. the lover were present , of course these restrictions were not felt , but In his absence the poor girl had llttlo more liberty than a Hindoo widow. She must not accept even the most ordinary nttentlons from any man , must dance with no one except her father or brother , and she must always wear , con spicuously displayed hanging from her neck , face outward , the miniature of her future husband. These miniatures were often skillfull ) painted on Ivory , and were usually oval In shape and about 3 > 'j Inches long by 2'/j In size , without counting the gold frames , which wore sometimes quite heavy. The broad remarks which It was considered In order for even chance accimlntances | to ad dress to the fiancee upon sight of this badge of appropriation were intolerable to He.len Livingston , nnd rather than subject herself to them she resolutely refrained from ac cepting nn Invitation oven to her' loved "Cousin Chancellor's" during the few months of her engagement , which oniled In a happy marriage In the spring of 1809. On one occasion , when a large and most Interesting company of American and for eign guests wan expected nt dormant , Helen vainly sought her mother's permission to attend without wearing the telltale per trait. Finding that this would not bo nl- lowcd , nnd realizing that her sister's dis appointment would bo great , "Sister Patty , " only 15 , but already tall and stately , heroic ally volunteered to wear the obnoxious picture , personating Its rightful owner. lint the Innocent fraud was not permitted , nnd as Helen would not go If obliged to wear the miniature , she was compelled to relinquish the coveted plccaurc. Of course , the boy lover ho was barely 21 was In no way responsible for this custom , which ho sub sequently often , and Justly , characterized as odious ; and I think that ho never liked to see the miniature , which had been the means of depriving of ever so small a pleasure the woman whom lie Idolized through a long life. _ snitvi.vc ; srri in.s. \ow ntiil Coiuforlnlilc MoilcH of Iliiuil- There nro several brand new ways of serving suppers at home , after small dances , card or theater parties , and these novelties are all the outcome of practical application of chafing dish eclcnce. 'When ' the hour for refreshments arrives1 and the dining room doors are thrown open , In place of the doubtfully Inviting cold collation , on the long sideboard , or at one end of the stately dining table , the steam' and glow , from a couple or trio of big chafing dishes , greets the hungry guests. Over tlio great silver heaters , with their double-power alcohol lamps , In very smart IIOU'HCS , the family chef , or a caterer's man , had , In for the occasion , presides. From top to toe ho Is arrayed , like a lily , and ho probably speaks very broken English , Where the company to bo fed Is large and likely to bo ravenous , a couple of skilled cooks nro engaged , and their Immacu late presence , their silver furnaces and the delicious hot viands they feerve , lend to the entire entertainment a delightfully pictur esque variety. If a couple of double chafing dishes , which supply In all four cooking banlns , are used , two men can rapidly feed almost any num ber of persons and a delightful Informality reigns. All about the cooks are bowls heaped with raw materials for conversion Into dainty messes. Every utensil used In preparing the supper Is silver and every guest , selecting what plates , knives , spoons , etc. , he or she desires , from piles on a side- table , goea personally for helpings from the chafing dishes. The menu varies from three to as high as eight different sorts of hot delicacies , and the guests scat themselves where they please to dispose of their per tions. IN THE SUPPER ROOM. This season , ou'n at the most elaborate I hostess Is obliged to subject her own treas ured porcelain to peril. The caterer supplies ' all these new dishes and no aftermath , as a ' bill for breakage chills hospitable pleasure I over a successful entertainment. Another pretty and sensible plan at large balls , wedding receptions and muslcalcs , where supper Is a feature , Ls the heaping of sand wiches In graceful high-handled flower baskets. On the brown or white wicker plates the bread Is plied and topped by a I silver wire fork , which holds a card. On the card , In legible gilt letters. Is written , "ham , chicken , salad or Jelly sandwiches , " as the case may be , nnd ns the maid passes by , those who are hungry may read and make their selection. As long as supper Is in progress these baskets of bread nro kept circulating' through the rooms , and the Ices are dished up In the prettiest little paste board boxes. Inside , the boxes are lined with waxed paper , and It is a fact to be re marked that napkins seem rarely or never used now at such suppers. IN THE .DRAWING ROOM. After dinner or luncheon the very pretty habit has been revived of the hostess mak ing coffee In the drawing room and having the liqueur offered from the coffee tray. The coffee table Is arranged In one corner , or near the open fire , nnd on It Is set a silver pot , which revolves over nn alcohol lamp , and at once not only holla the bever age , but strains It of the grounds , all In the shortest space , with not even the amount of manipulation ten making requires. When the coffee Is made , It la handed to the guest on a tray with liqueur bottles nnd glasses , and for this season at least no liqueur Is served with crushed Ice. Per haps this coffco making In the drawing room Is a subtle feminine choice for at tracting the men away from the dining room , their wine and cigars and now , as a finishing touch to the dinner , luncheon , or breakfast , every guest , on leaving his or her hostess , finds a servant waiting In the hall with n glars of some sparkling water , by way of a refreshment utter hot roomo and a rich feast. KlIHlllllllOtlN. . Largo dots are seen on the most expensive veils. llorderlnps of fur are universal as a gar- nlturo on day gowns , evening toilets and wraps. Sapphire velvet la quite , the rage. It makes a handsome cloak , with a square yoke collar of sable paws and outlined scams of narrow jet. Chiffon waists which Imvo been worn nil summer can bo made warm and dressy by a black velvet flgaro with draped rovers and sleeves all lined with whlto satin. Sleeves are growing smaller as winter comes on , and fashionable Parisians are now wearing them quite tight-fitting with only a suspicion of a puff on the shoulders. Felt hat , with an admirably posed green ribbon bow , Is ono of the most marked features In the millinery fashions of today. U Is trimmed with a ruche of feathers. Pink In all Its tones Is more becoming to moro women than either yellow , blue or mauve , oven when tlicaa last mentioned col ors are enriched with velvet or veiled with lace. > lace.Winter Winter coats , capes and cloaks , If not wholly of fur , are extensively trimmed with It , and point to preparation for the predicted old-fashloucd sort of winter ot exceptional eoverlty. Eton Jackets and small boleros ot fur are very much worn , und they add an air of do- ganco to a very simple dress , and at the same time. UHO up odd bits ot fur which would hardly nnswer for any other purpose. CollarcttcH of liable or black marten are decidedly chla for wear with the tailor- matlo gown , but In order to bo quite up-to- date they tcuBt bo plentifully garnlahcJ with tails- Indeed , some of the newest have tails on the back , OR well AS front. A very costly and elegant continue ot dark Russian green cloth haa n bolero of sealskin with a wide collar ot the fur nt the back. A large "grannie" muff , nnd n cloth and fur toque nre en suite. The newest sealskin Jackets are short , moderately full around the bottom , close- fitting In the back nnd loose nnd double- breasted In front , with deep rovers , nnd high rolling collar. Some of the shoes and itandals for evening wear nro exceedingly pointed , nnd many nro richly emVoldercd ; others , following the craze for Jewel effects , are decorated with tiny Imitation gems. Of nil furs , dead-white ermine In least becoming to Its wenrer unless she hns n rose-leaf complexion , nnd next In unbecom- liiRiit-ss to ermine rnnks chinchilla. The lat ter , If real. Is a very beautiful fur , but It Is greatly Imitated nnd so vulgarized. Evening gowns with square-cut necks nro much worn this season. The square neck la moro becoming to sloping shoulders than the round nook , and lace nnd chiffon ruf fles can bo used to give the edges a soft nnd dainty IlnUh. A pi'tunH velvet Jacket over a white satin waist covered with rream Ineo Is nlso very pretty with n black satin skirt or ono of cloth to match the velvet , and n dainty fin ish Is a two-Inch belt of white velvet with n gold buckle nnd a cream lace and satin collar band. Without doubt , dark furs nre less tryltiR to moat people than light furs nre , but tltu hard , shining surface characteristic of so ninny dark , short-hnlrcd furs Is to be avoided. A derp-brown fur like mink , sable , seal or otter , Is moat becoming In n grayer or brown dreso , and , Indeed , combines ad mirably with most colors nnd color-mix tures. A pretty evening walet of chiffon In pale blue , rope , lemon , errnm , lilac or Nile gret'ii , has the neck cut tvjimre and edged with fur. It seems an Incongruous combination the dainty , tnlstllkc material trimmed with win ters richest fur- but the effect Is very charming. Chinchilla , sable , ermine nnd senl nro the best furs for trimming chiffon , being the softest nnd richest looking. The smooth , beautifully dyed faced cloths In which tailors dclltfit are the very bett background for the Intricate nnd very effect ive braiding nnd arabesque decoration en nppllque so fiu'lilonnble UiU > winter. Ilrald- Ing lu likewise applied to ratliiB. silks , vel vet ? , and the hnndramely dyed dlk-llnlshed velveteens mndc by Liberty In Ixindon. The rnge for lare nnd embroidered chiffon will bo n ; < great this winter as If both thcpe exquisite textiles were In the first reason of their popularity. In marked favor they nre rivaled only by superb Jewel nnd bead garnitures , uliaded From.1. ) embroideries en applique , and very narrow fur edgings nil of which nro lit for the adornltiK of a queen. Rich expensive pelts tnko the lend among the wealthy , but this season there Is nn Immense variety of Imitations that for the first time In their history are considered by refined people ns good enough for skirt borderlngs , edgings , etc. , for Instance , elec tric seai nnd n very fair reproduction of moulllon , the latter n soft-looking , close , full fur that In Its gray-blue tone looks very well In connection with any material of the snmo shade , or lighter or darker , ns may be. Among other expenrlvo and tlli'tlnp.Hlnhed- looklng winter garmentn are long elegant carriage rcdlngotrs made of finest ladles' cloth , the single , double or trlph * capo collars edged with otter , sealskin , mink or chinchilla. These as a rule nre dark In color ; some nro black throughout. Again they nro made of very Klaigy canvl's Inlr. Gorman broadcloth figured In Persian pat terns , or of striped velours In black und gold brown and ecru , chamois color and l > .inls'h red , green and gold , or In three dl tlnt't shades of one color. I'VmliilniNottM. . The duchess of Mnrlborotigh's recent fes tivities nt Blenheim oastle cost $100,000. Although the dnughtcr of George W. Cnblo ins recently mnrrled. she still keeps up her work of Illustrating her father's writings. Lady Ileatrlcc IJutler , one of the famous beauties of England , has taken to bicycling , nnd bids fair to become a proficient whccl- womr.n. Frau Wctto of Cologne , the distinguished librettist of "Hansel nnd Grctcl , " has com pleted n new fairy opera , writing the words in addition to composing the music. Ethel Nordhoff , daughter of Charles Nord- hoff , hns chosen bookbinding ns n calling , and hat ) fitted herself for it by n course nt a famous London bindery. The Into Mrs. Scott-Slddons wns considered by some people the most beautiful profes sional woman seen on the stage or rostrum for a quarter of a century. Annie Corbln , daughter of the late Austin Corbln. the New York millionaire , manaced a small hotel last summer nt Shlnnecock Hills , L. I. , nnd showed much ability in the matter. The much-traveled duchess of Cleveland , mother of Lord Rosebery , Is antlrlpatlng n voyage to South Africa In December. No other duchess living has explored the world so thoroughly. The now lady mayore.'H of London Is a Jewess , with a great mass of snowy whlto hair , and when lighted up with diamonds nnd crowned with a glittering tiara , Is an Impressive figure. Miss Dora Splllar distinguished herself In Essex , England , by riding to hounds on a bicycle. She was thrown nevcral limes , surmounted six stiles , wns in nt the death nnd was presented with the brush. Mrs. John Russell Young of Philadelphia addressed the 300 members of the New York Chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution concerning the visit which LI Hung Chang paid to her and her husband. Miss Leila J. Robinson , one of the best known of American women lawyers , Is the clover author of "Tho Law Made Easy. " It will be remembered she was the first woman to practice at the bar of the supreme- court of Massachusetts. The princess royal of Italy Is a sculptor as well as a musician. She has just mod eled In clay a monument to her ancestor , Vladllla Danllo , which Is being finished off by M. Tronchct , and will bo placed In the Paris exhibition ot 1900. Lady Lowls of Aberdare , England , will In a lew days bo presented with a magnifi cent silver desert service. Also two pend ants In emeralds , rubles and diamonds , In commemoration of the baronetcy conferred upon her husband , Sir W , T , ' 1/cwls. The czarina's favorite color Is white , so much ( io that In St. Petersburg she has como to be known as the whlto czarina. A particularly pretty summer costume of hera was of whlto silk , and lace , with an An toinette fichu , nnd ono of the picturesque empire bonnets , which , so far , none but French women have dared to wear. Mrs. Herman Davis of Now York hns rid den her wheel over the great St. Bernard pass. She Is 1110 first woman who has ac complished this difficult and picturesque bit of riding and not many men can duplicate It. Accompanied by her husband , she has traveled 2,000 miles on her wheel during her summer vacation In Europe , making between sixty and sixty-five miles a day. A Paris dispatch says that the Duchess do Ca Ccz , whoso death was recently an nounced , died from syncope. The duchess do Ca Cez was the daughter ot Isaac II. Singer , the Inventor of the sowing ma chine. Emperor Francis Joseph , the pope and Duo d'Orlcans Imvo telegraphed their condolences to the duke do Ca Ccz , Rep resentatives of the royalist party will at tend the funeral. Princess Pauline of WurtemberR , who late to marry Prince Christian , the eldest eon of the crown prince of Denmark , ID ono of the richest heiresses In Europe. U Is nnld that rich aa Prlnco Christian's mother , the crown princess , Is , the Wurtcmbcrg money will not bo unwclcomed to the Dan ish royal family , as the crown princess' fortune must bo divided among her BOVOII children , The crown princess Is a notable and thrifty housewife. I happened to bo on the quay nt South ampton , eays n writer In an English paper , when Mr. llecrbohm Tree called for Amer ica the other day. Hla charming wife ( who , by the way , will rcclto at a ballad concert before the end ot the season ) was tlicro to sco him off. There came , too , Ills golden-haired daughter , Viola , who , iil- thouKh only 12 years old , has grown very nearly na tall na her mother. When "King John" Is produced nt her majesty's. It IH prohablo tyat thu clover child will plity the part ot Prluco Arthur , Mine. Yale's Great Remedies. WHY EVERY WOMAN SHOULD USE THEM , No onp will iittc'lupt lo illrputc the fuel Hint It In ( n u vvonmn'H mlvntitnKi' lo IKK * t looklliKi tlicivforo II In an uiKi-nt m > rr lty Hint o\i > ry woman mnkrK II n imit'tlri1 to take euro atrr \ \ - pv\t \ anil UPI rvrry moan * Known to cnlumoo her liliYKlfiil | H' | foot Inn , mul thrirtiy rvlulii h < T nolf- rcpprct and happlnc ? ? . The ailvanrt'il mrtlioil * of l-oniltlfylni ; no * ur- ccMfnlly rniioycil | | iiy Mine. YnU > run trip p\rry wiiiuan In I.IP liinil l < i n-Kiilatp her own lirniity mill InrrcuH * her KOOI ! looks every day. Wlirit Mine. Yale llri-t nia'le ' her illeo\pries flie dlil not IIFU any one to use them until the lirrrrif Imil iloiu < so. She illil not niako a claim for them until flulirrrrir Imd KTOIIIP lirnutlrul fioin llielr lire , mul now. at the ORP of 4S , mnl after urine her own temeilles for twenty-two > onn , she la releliratetl as the most lieautlful woman llvlne , Is a Riainl demonstration of what her remeillpa will ilo ; therefore till * IH why e\ery woman In the lulu ) Flumlil use Mine. Ynlc'H remedies , ami UTO lilenty of them , and tro\v ; teautlful and be. cotnn hnmiv. YALE BEAUTY PRICE LIST. Yale's Pkln ( for wrinkle * ) 2 Klies nnd $3.00 a Jar Yiilo 'n Coniltlrxlon rrcnm 1.00 n jar Yale ' 's Complexion lllcaeh 2.H ( ) a Imlll * Yale ' ' Mkeelslor Hair Tonic 1.00 a Imltin Yale 's Hair fleanser l.CO a liottlo Yale ' 's l.a Krrekla ( for freekles ) l.W n Inittlo Yale 's SH | > rliil l < ntl nCor lilaeKheadn ) l.CO n lioltlo Yale's Sperlal Ointment , ( for pimples and i-UIn diseases ) . . . . 1.00 a Jar Yale' Hand Whltener 1.00 n bottle Yale'saee ] Powder ffl Yale's Comple\lon Soap ; .1 Yale's KlUlr < if lleaiity ( skin tonle ) . 1.0(1 ( a iMitllo Yales's l-Yrtlllzer ( cures ronrtlpatlon ) l.M a li.ittlo Yale's Illood ami I.lvi-r Tonic l.W a liotllo Yale's l' ° riillenra , ( for female uedkness ) 1.00 a liottln .Stilil Iiy All DruuulxtH anil IK-nlrr * . Mme. Yale's "Guide to Beauty. ' Will lie mailed free upon application. Address Mine. M. Yule. Temple of Ilntity. Chlcnso Kor snlc by 11OSTON KTOIli : DIU'O DIM'T. , Omaha , Neb. WOOD'S Wcaro ICE KINGExelusiro WM T.Wood&Co.'sCc'cDrated Ice Tools. Jas. Morton & Son Co. , Wrllo for C'atnlosiio. O.V.AHA. NRIl CURED. Mll'AIS itkHptntin H.r.1.V .fr llk ft l-ro.f. LTH RtNEWSVobTHFUL tearorwJ's \Vo semi tlio 1'rcucli Home . CALTII08 IVec. ( " 1 > .O. li'D nJ . [ li'KiilKiiaraitC'OtliatCAi.TII)3 ) will I Hl'OI * Illnchurfffti unil rmlMlont , t i'lTltl' -rmntvrriri. . Vurlcorrlof nn.l . UKslOHi : l.o.t Vigor. t < ic it and fay if sclisfifJ , VON MOHL CO. , 332 D , Hole Jmrrlrin lft U , ClntUioU. Ohio , fen f on MORPHINE HABIT PAINLESSLY & PERMANENTLY CURED r > rc. n. PAINLESS © TOftl ANTIDOTE ORIGINAL AND ONLY GENUINE REMEDY. Discovered in IBGO. "THERIAKI" Book Free. Office 312. 70 Monroe Street , C\\IC \ \ ( Ci\ \ P. 0. Drawer 053. UHtAUU , FREE 209 PAGE BOOK on Kriursur Ynutli. Ixwl Vigor ami illR'ajun of Imtli witw. llnwUilMTiniHi well and Mroim. J > o iiciiN | ! . UrVil.W. 1,01111Ui:0 H.I.TIM M.I'tiUu.,1'1. . HOME INOUSTRIES Y purchasing oods made at the following Nebras ka factories. If you can not find what you want , communicate with the manufacturers as to w h a t dealers handle their goods.- BAOS. DUULAP AND TWINE. III3MIS OMAHA 1IACJ CU. Manufacturer * of all klnli of cotton and bur lap baB . cotton Hour carki and twlno a > peo- lafty. 6K-UG-C18 H. lltli Kl. BUEWEIUKS. OMAHA immvi.vu ASSOCIATION Car load ihlptnent * made In our own fern * , erator cart , lime Jllbbon. Ullto lOsoort. VleiiM Kxport and Family Kiporl delivered to all ponu of the city. IRON WOIUC8. DAVIH A COWOIM , IUU.V WOUKB. Iron mul Urn * * I < 'uiiiulurn. Manufacturers nnd Jobber ) ot Machinery. O n. < r l repairing a ipeclaliy. Ml , 1MJ and UOf Jickion street , Omaha , Nett. INUUSTUIAIj IIIO.V WOIUCS. Manufacturing and repairing of all klnfli ot machinery , eniclnu , pump * , ulovutom , iirfnllnir preMPn , liunpeiB , ittiufunic una coupling * , 11(4 ( ma UOJ Howard St. . Omaha. IMX'l'ON * VIBUMNO IIIO.V WOItlC ! } . Manufacturer * of Architectural Iron Work. General Kuundry. Machine and lilackmnltrl work. UnglneerH and Contractor * for Kliu Troof Ilulld- lnt ; . Olllce and works : U. I * . Ity. end B9. 17th * tr t , Oinntii. NIQIIT WATCH , FIHB HEIWCB. AMKUICAN DlbTHICT Tn The. only perfect protection to property. Cum- fno 'I. Hen thing on eartli. Reduce ! Iniuranw rate * . l ! l Douglc. * itiett. HHIHT FACTORIES. J , II. TTvANH MJIIHAHICA HIIIH'H COMPANY. Exduilr * euttoni * hlrt Ullori.