TITIS OMAHA DAILY 11EE : SUNDAY. DECEMIVHR 1 , 1800. 10
IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN.
' Ki m S . S mmm
I I i i t I I i I' * ' ( i I t I t I
As CI.OTIII.S. :
jtrlulit ntiit llriiiillfnl SnltN for ( li
I. title I'ruitlr.
NBW YOIIK. Dec. 10. Tlicro Is no deny
ing the fact Hint ts tlio years go by tlio clothIng -
Ing of children Is more nnd more consUcrcd.
Indeed , tlicro IB scarcely a JiiVcnllo function
nou.iilnyo Hint does not cnll for imu dis
tinctive costume. especially If the wcaret
Is of tlio cofler tea ; but It docs not follow
tlml cneh of tlicw costumes ticeds lo be
bought ready made , or Hint the matsrlals
must lie of the finest when they nro fnsblono.l
at home.
OlirliitinoH party clothes for bot'.i boyn nnd
Klrla nio now declared to bo quite nti Im
portant nH the Christmas tree Itself. The
KOwnK of the girls must bo light In color
nnd elegantly made , nnd the get-up ol' the
lioyg muni bo their dreariest ; a velvet court
cult nnd Incc frilled shirt front for the
smaller boys , nnd n blnck broadcloth tnilt ,
confuting of an eton jacket , n vest , nnd longer
or nhort trousers for the older lndn.
Informal dancing now followu every Christ
mas tree gathering , v/lmther In the after-
i > eon or ovcnlng. nnd the nttlro of the small
KiicstH muul bo of the same nature nH that
worn by their ciders on their festive occa
sions. That the children enjoy the Christ
mas portion more when miltnbly dressed goes
WHITE MULL OVEIl YELLOW SILK.
without paying. Then n gnlo of finery gives
eclat to the oT.iyion ; nnd It sooriiH only just
that the kind Krh < Krlngle should hnvo this
llttlo trlbuto paid hint after all the good
bo lias done In the world.
OAY FLOUNCES.
Let us begin with tho. girls. If they arc
very Binall their Christinas frocks may bo
niado from an older sister's outgrown gown ,
or ono of mamma's old evening skirts may
form a foundation to be covered entirely
with some Inexpensive stuff. Swiss , mull ,
or dotted muslin nro nil charming over
colored silk , and Inserts of yellow Valen
ciennes Ince In the llttlo bodlco and skirt
will glvo n touch of elegance.
Tim white mull and Inco frock Illustrated
will provide an excellent model for a girl
from -4 to 7. The silk foundation should
bo mndc separate from the outside , which
Is entirely without lining for washing con
venience , nnd t < o the lace Inserts may lie
directly over the silk umlcrsllp. This Is
cut oxnctly the shape of the outside frock
nnd ls best when hlgh-nccked .and the
llttlo bodice lined with thin book muslin.
A short puff of the silk forms the tinder-
Blreves , which nro covered by others of
frilled muslin.
Low neck nnd short alcoves Is n very
pretty f null ion for llttlo maids who do not
cntch cold easily. Hut oven when the neck
of the gown needs to bo high , the sleeves
may be short , and If the llttlo nrms nro
round nnd dimpled a narrow gold bracelet
will udd much to their beauty. A nnrrow
ribbon tied tight nround the wrist , with
a bow outside , nlso sets off n dainty hand
and nrm nnd gives a quaint old-fashloncd
look that Is very fetching. For the neck
there arc any number of thin gold chains
FOR A OIllL OF TEN.
. with heart-shaped or round enameled lock-
els that arc worn with both high and low
townu. i
Thin wool materials , delilne , barege , cashmere -
more , etc. , In pile colors make charming and
tnoxpunslvo party frocka when trimmed with
narrow patln ribbons or black velvet or lace.
An odd silk or satin aklrt In the same color
will also provide an excellent foundation for
Ihceo and add much to their elegance.
AN ADMIUADLE DESIGN.
'As to model , a full gathered skirt towed
to a short body with low neck and puff
llecvcs I a dc Ign much In favor for Klrls
from 4 to 10. A ulgh-ncckcd , lang-sleovcU
rnuilln or ellk gulmpe will bo worn under the
tx > dlco by all ages ; but for the older girls
the body may bo varied by alt ports of abort
Jacket effects , tiny ctoni that go all the way
round ami provide extra warmth , or clto just
llltlo bolero fronti to give a jacket look. The
mallojt scrap of velvet or vllk will form
thow bolero frontu. ai the shorter they are
the more cocky they arc considered. Then ,
If the velvet or ellk used In made-over mate
rial , defects may bo bidden with a cover
ing ot thick lace or a braiding of gilt or
Mack. The last trimming will give a look ot
extreme rlchuni , especially If the braiding
li done on volvet.
Vat Blrll tram 10 tn 1C turtv frnnlr. li.u *
either ft high bodlco or else the neck cut
out In a little Marguerite * quaro that thows
i/carcely more than the shell of the throat.
A round neck simply nnlrred , as Is shown In
n gown on this pige , may be worn by the
older girls , but In no cjso muni bo decollctagc
bo very markeJ. Gored aklrtti for girls from
12 years up are often trimmed with ono or
more narrow frills cJged with lace narrow
velvet or satin ribbon. If the frill Is eleven
Inches deep ono Inch may take up the head
ing , and to put It on with a gathering over
onu or two cords will form a trim ( InUh.
million H.iohes from four to five Inches
wide arc wcrn by girls from 4 years up.
They cnclrclo the wnlst snugly , ending at
the balk with two rosettes , or a bow , nnd
ends that touch the skirt bottom.
WHITE TOILETS.
Sashes of Ivory white satin and sleeve
twists of the name , form n beautiful nnd
Blmplo trimming for plain velvet gowns ,
which by the way are considered this seanon
Hi smartest get tip for girls from 0 to 12.
The little frocks are severely simple , with
n gathered skirt , low body nnd short puff
sleeves. Hut deep collars or brctellcs of
splendid Inco may fall from the round neck
of the bodice , which Is worn over n high
long-sleeved gulmpe , nnd no other trim
ming could he more elegant or effective
than the white satin sash and tlccvc twists
mentioned.
llil.s fine rig IH much affected by lltt'iQ
maids In the umarl .set , for opera , matinee : ! ,
birthday parties nnd other festive use. The
gown Is In black , wine-red or sapphire-blue ,
nnd n narrow white Batln ribbon ties back
the simply parted hair , while white kid
gloves , blark silk stucklngit and patent
leather shnca are considered other elegant
accessories.
To reproduce the same sinnrt effect nl
less expense Liberty velveteen In the same
colors could be used. Then any number
of handsome brctelles nnd collarettes maybe
bo found In the shops very cheap , that 1m-
Unte to a nicety the rich Russian nnd real
1'olnt do Vcnlso laces , which are worn by
the small fry n : < well as by the growsups.
For girls from G to 1C the children's
furnlEhlng shops show delightful little
party frocks In striped and figured taffeta
silks , pliln Ktirahs , and silk gauzes of nil
sorts. Thcso are all In good style nnd ad-
mlrablo taste and many of the silk frocks
Hccm astonishingly cheap.
SOME MODEL DRESSES.
One for a young lady of M was marked
$22. This wns of figured taffeta , blurred
greenish moons on a ping background , with
nn effective yoke collar of white silk mus
lin and other trimmings of yellow Valen
ciennes Inco and green ribbon velvet. A
design of this Is given on this page , nnd It
may be recognized by the Inco bands which
run from the yoke half way down the klrt
apron.
A very stunning little dress for n girl of
12 was of pink mid whlto striped silk ,
with white chiffon wine-colored vel
vet on the bodlco. The model of this was
n gored skirt and bnby bodice with looped
puff sleeves nnd Mnrgucrlte neck. A tiny
( liillllng of the white chiffon gnve n , girl
ish finish to the decolletag. ? . nnd. them were
double brctnlles of the same , edged with
wine-colored baby velvet that fell over the
sleeves. A crush belt of the wine velvet
on the bias also finished the waist. This
smart llttlo toilet Is likewise here Illus
trated. , .
Ono thing , however. Is observed In nil the
juvenile finery seen everywhere. As long
ns missy Is nt the rcnlly little girl stage
she may wear plcndld stuffs guloro ; but tlio
moment she strikes her teens her gown l > e-
comra Instantly simple In make and material ,
according to the most approved French taste
for young girls.
FOR LITTLE MASTERS.
H Is the same even with boyc. Velvet
court suits for boya up to 8 have the
short jacket and knco breeches often richly
braided , and the lace Jabot on the shirt
front which Is eltVer of white , or the finest
nainsook , or mull may bo real. Hut by
the time Master Jack Is 10 years old times
have changed indeed. Then his party eult
must luvo a mannish air , be of black broad
cloth pcrfcrably. nnd made in the way
shown In the Illustration until the proper
ago shall lengthen hla trousers. The shirt
of nno whlto linen allows narrow tucks
at most at the front , but the turnover col
lar must be severely plain.
Sometimes n black silk braid stripes the
trousers of these suits at the outside seam ,
and In that case there Is n finish of the
same on the Jacket. More commonly , how
ever , there Is only the strlpo on the
trousers ; but If the young gentleman has a
hankering to bo fine ho may wear with this
plain milt a vest of whlto brocade or elee
ono of bright red cloth ,
English boys above 8 years of ago wear
long trousers , with the cton Jackets for their
beat get up. From 8 down to the skirt ago
the trousers may bo knee length , and for nil
festive occasions the stockings are of blank
ullk and the shoes patent leather pumps. The
hair Is worn without a part , cropped straight
acrusa the forehead nnd brushed smoothly
down. NINA FITCH.
THU OKHMAN FUAUI.KI.V.
She Him IliTiiino a ropulur Institution
111 AllllTlCllll IIOIINpllOlllH.
There la scarcely a household among the
"rich and the great" of America today that
does not Include its German frauleln , many
mothers preferring her to other foreign
governesses on account of certain _ stalwart
moral as well OB Intellectual qualities. She
is more patient nnd gentle , less quick
tempered nnd radiates generally an atmos
phere of truth nnd sincerity. Her llttlo
charges are taught to not tell lies , to deal
honestly with ono another , In fact to prac
tice all the more homely , simple virtues.
Nor Is the stimulating Influence upon the
Imagination of a child to be taken Into Email
account. Steeped , as she Invariably Is , In
the rich legend and fairy lore of her "deep-
thinking , mystical Vatcrland , " she almost
unconsciously develops the Imaginative fac
ulties , Inducting a child Into the very spirit
and CKsenco of German thought , paying the
way for the easier comprehension In later
years of the underlying symbolism of a
Faust nnd the great world mysteries of tho.
NleboluiiKcn. Still more Important Is the
noble literature to which a knowledge of the
German language opens the way. In fact
the advantages arising from this system of
early training are not to bo enumerated and
the man who wants to add n year or two of
German university llfo to hla course at
Harvard or Yale can never bo grateful
enough for thai trick o * speech that renders
It the moro accessible.
REQUIREMENTS OF THE GOVERNESS.
Every year Is bringing to our shores more
and more of these educated foreigners who
are able In most cases to place themselves
advantageously through the Teachers' bu
reau. Many others are brought back by
American families from their travels abroad ,
and still others come through the luterposl-
tlon of friends already hero. Most of our
multl-mllllonalrcs , however , depend en
tirely upon some reliable agency for this
addition to their household. There arc
families who require In the ono person a
teacher ot various languages. The Ideal
way , however , U to uavo a native for each
separate tongue. Suppose , for Instance , one
begins with a German frauleln who can
perhaps teach elementary French and
after German bos been thoroughly mastered ,
employ a finishing teacher In French.
There nro two classes ot governesses , the
nursery and the finishing governess. The
first Is supposed to take the child at 3 or )
years of ago and continue with It until It la
perhaps I'D or 12 yearn old.
The requirements ot the nursery governess
Is that eho shall have bad a good high
school education , that elio shall bo able to
teach her own language and perhaps nn-
other ono correctly , the common branches
In EnglUh , and many require that she shall
teach music also. In almost all cases the
education of the German frauleln hns been
more thorough than that of the French
governess , that all bureaus Insist , as far as
possible , that all should have passed state
examinations. Such a governess , of course ,
performs no port of a maid's duties , such
an dressing the children , putting them to
bed , etc. Buo U auppcued to teach
during the morning , to take them out
usually In the park In the afternoon , during
which time she , of course , speaks her own
language with them , and then they all have
tea together , after which her duties for the I
day nre over , except In those rare cases
where one Is expected to sew. Such nursery |
governesses are usually from the good bour
geois families , and arc paid from $20 to $30
a month nnd "found. "
THEY EARN A GOOD LIVING.
Tlio finishing governess Is often n German
or French woman of high degree ; perhaps
n 'member o ! same good old family tnt ! : hns
lost Its money , and who , rather than lose \
caste nt home , seeks a career In the "gol.len ]
country across the sea. " Many of these nro
women of highest culture , speaking Eovcrnl
langunges fluently , with a brond knowledge
of music nnd nrt , nnd who nro up to date
on nil points ot etlejiictto nnd decorum. |
Finishing governesws receive ns n rule from
$30 to jr > 0 a month In addition to nil living >
expenses. Some very rich New York nnd .
Boston families' , however , pay $100 n mouth. ; |
but for this sum they require n woman of i
the highest breeding nnd education. In those j
families the governess ho-i her own private
maid and butler n separate dining room be
ing provided for her nnd the children nnd
she la looked to to tench perfect table man
ners with nil the rcvt.
Though Amerlcnns , ns a rule , rightly
CIIIUSTMAS 1JO.VTS.
IH" < H of 11 Sc
Clmrm-liT.
Don't Blvo presents after you linvo com
plained for weeks to nil your friends about
the nuisance of the custom. Christmas can
bo celebrated other ways , and giving gifts
ungraciously Is ono of the most graceless
things In the world. If you will give them
nnd still bate to , keep your hate a secret.
Don't take the tone that you are "cut up"
FIGURED SILK.
If eomo ono for whom you have nothing
gives you a present. The thing la not anp-
po cl to bo a matter of bargaining ; preserve
a decent teniulaiice of a Christmas spirit ,
and repay the obllRatlon , not by n tarUy
rcsponJInc gift , but In aomo other way at
some other tlmo If you want to ,
Don't glvo any ono bric-a-brac or pic-
turca unless you arc morally euro you know
Ills taete , I'rcucntti that must bo displayed
nra apt to bo a great strain on the affections ;
no matter how the receiver may hate them
ho muflt father them and deface tits rooms
with tbrm , or Insult the glvur , Now a book ,
for Instance , even If the receiver don't Ilku
It nij don't want It. can bo tucked away
among other books and forgotten , but an
ugly vase we have always with us nt least
till wo can plausibly meet Mlh an accident
nnd smash It , Don't write -your name or
anybody elso'a on cards Ifyau nend them ; |
no ono can keep n lot ot nuch. truck , nnd It
Is often highly convenient Jtisl to send It on
Its travels to carry Chrl&tmaa greeting to
other people , and why nq ( ? '
Don't glvo presents In tup Wrappings they
wore ecnt from the shop In ; llike \ \ throw
ing a bono to a dog ; less cxponslve presents
nnd n llttlo fancy paper and ribbon and n
few sprays of holly nnd mistletoe adminis
tered with tnsto will be n' deal more satis
factory nnd Ohrlstmnsy.
Don't negltet to lay In'ft stock of some
slmpli things like handkerchiefs nnd eachet
bags for ut.oxpected ctnorgericlts. If you like
to meet various people with a reasonable ?
token. '
Don't put everything off to1 the last , be
cause you had better for the Joy of your
friends give nothing than wear yourself out
nub lie as doss net two tlcka when the
blessed day comes.
Do.i't oppress children who nro satiated
to sadness with toys nlrt-ndy , by giving them
moro ; ( hero nro other ways of making them
happy , or If there nre not It Is because they
nro satiated with every pleasure nnd nre
the moat pitiful beings alive ; In thnt cnsc
let them try doing something for poor chil
dren who nro blessed In powers of enjoy
ment nnd see If the capacity won't prove
catching.
OI.D-TIMK I < : MA < ; KMK.\T.S.
Ken < tirt > < if Soi'litt I.lfc In the Kurly
linyM of tin * IliMuilillc.
Tor Helen Livingston there remained
hardly one moro year of happy girlhood ,
free to come nnd go , dnnce nnd be merry ,
in the most Innocent girlish fashion , says n
writer In the Century , for nt thnt time be
trothal wns as sacred ns marrlngo Itself ,
nnd much more rtatrlctlvo of privileges.
Thnt Is , the freedom of girlhood wns lost ,
nnd that of the matron had not come. If
balls , the chafing dishes play an Important
part , for out ot all fashion hns fallen the
custom of what was rnlle l a "seated sup
per. " That mennt the dining table pulled
out to Us utmost limits nnd arrangements
made for placing every one before n square
meat In courses. Along with this awkwnrd
method hns nlso disappeared the orthodox
bnftet style of serving.
When the hour for supper now arrives
the dining room Is found converted Into n.
species of high nrt restaurant , nnd n capable
corps of men nnd maid servants do nway
with the mad rush nnd plllngo by too
hungry or too gallant young men guests.
The discreet caterer , who has nn eye to
nrtlstlc effects , ns well ns convenience , eg-
tnbllshes In the four corners of the roomer
or across one end n grotip of glnnt double
bowl clmflng dishes. These glittering fur-
nncce nre presided over by chefs In white
who respectively prepare oysters , lobsters ,
currli'd fowl nnd terrnpln by the steaming
qunrt or half gnllon. I'lntcs. forks , etc. , nro
heaped on a center table , nt the head of
which urns of boullllon. coffee nnd chocolate
keep hot over alcohol ! nm | > s. nnd the butler
or n capable hired head waiter maintains
perfect order.
TUB NEW TAIII.B.
Ilo sees to It that the young men nre
provided from n grent store In the back
hnll with the new folding tablos. They nre
made exactly like camp atools. only longer ,
broader nnd on high frames , with n patent
Blip underpinning that keepn them from col
lapsing. The light , canvnH-toppcd tnbles nre
set nnywher.- the whim of groups or couples
mny decide nnd the young men , assisted
nnd directed by the servants , export deli
cacies from the dining room. A wise nr-
rnngemcnt Is the dishing up of all hot seml-
lliiuld preparations , as terrnpln nnd lobster
n la Newburgh , In smnll silver bowls , for
by iloltig nway with ns much china na pos
sible the- food Is kept very much hotter nnd
breakage Is nvolded. The hot drinks , too ,
nro offered In silver cups , nud the most
charmingly painted Russian platters answer
ns plates for salad , croquettes , etc.
IJy this clever _ _ device no china-loving
y
i +
AROUND THE CHRISTMAS TREE.
prefer yclioolH for their children there Is a
Inrgo demand for these governesseo from a
variety of reasons. Sometimes a child is
ted backward to keep pace wlthl hlo fellows ,
and needs constant individual attention , or
through Idleness hns fallen behind nnd re
quires extra tutoring. In many families' , too ,
the finishing governess Is retained while the
children nro in scftool for the purpose of
assisting them In their lessons , keeping them
up In langunges nnd music , nnd generally
supervising their work. A very false Im
pression often gets back to Germany In
regard to the fabulous sums paid here for
sucli teaching. In the richest families In
America , $100 nnd "found" is nil that Is
paid , whllo the best price for private lessons
rarely runs over $2 an hour.
MARION DEPEW.
the lover were present , of course these
restrictions were not felt , but In his absence
the poor girl had llttlo more liberty than a
Hindoo widow. She must not accept even
the most ordinary nttentlons from any man ,
must dance with no one except her father
or brother , and she must always wear , con
spicuously displayed hanging from her neck ,
face outward , the miniature of her future
husband.
These miniatures were often skillfull )
painted on Ivory , and were usually oval In
shape and about 3 > 'j Inches long by 2'/j In
size , without counting the gold frames ,
which wore sometimes quite heavy. The
broad remarks which It was considered In
order for even chance accimlntances | to ad
dress to the fiancee upon sight of this badge
of appropriation were intolerable to He.len
Livingston , nnd rather than subject herself
to them she resolutely refrained from ac
cepting nn Invitation oven to her' loved
"Cousin Chancellor's" during the few months
of her engagement , which oniled In a happy
marriage In the spring of 1809.
On one occasion , when a large and most
Interesting company of American and for
eign guests wan expected nt dormant , Helen
vainly sought her mother's permission to
attend without wearing the telltale per
trait. Finding that this would not bo nl-
lowcd , nnd realizing that her sister's dis
appointment would bo great , "Sister Patty , "
only 15 , but already tall and stately , heroic
ally volunteered to wear the obnoxious
picture , personating Its rightful owner. lint
the Innocent fraud was not permitted , nnd as
Helen would not go If obliged to wear the
miniature , she was compelled to relinquish
the coveted plccaurc. Of course , the boy
lover ho was barely 21 was In no way
responsible for this custom , which ho sub
sequently often , and Justly , characterized as
odious ; and I think that ho never liked to
see the miniature , which had been the means
of depriving of ever so small a pleasure the
woman whom lie Idolized through a long
life.
_
snitvi.vc ; srri in.s.
\ow ntiil Coiuforlnlilc MoilcH of Iliiuil-
There nro several brand new ways of
serving suppers at home , after small dances ,
card or theater parties , and these novelties
are all the outcome of practical application
of chafing dish eclcnce. 'When ' the hour
for refreshments arrives1 and the dining
room doors are thrown open , In place of the
doubtfully Inviting cold collation , on the
long sideboard , or at one end of the stately
dining table , the steam' and glow , from a
couple or trio of big chafing dishes , greets
the hungry guests. Over tlio great silver
heaters , with their double-power alcohol
lamps , In very smart IIOU'HCS , the family chef ,
or a caterer's man , had , In for the occasion ,
presides. From top to toe ho Is arrayed ,
like a lily , and ho probably speaks very
broken English ,
Where the company to bo fed Is large
and likely to bo ravenous , a couple of
skilled cooks nro engaged , and their Immacu
late presence , their silver furnaces and the
delicious hot viands they feerve , lend to the
entire entertainment a delightfully pictur
esque variety.
If a couple of double chafing dishes , which
supply In all four cooking banlns , are used ,
two men can rapidly feed almost any num
ber of persons and a delightful Informality
reigns. All about the cooks are bowls
heaped with raw materials for conversion
Into dainty messes. Every utensil used In
preparing the supper Is silver and every
guest , selecting what plates , knives , spoons ,
etc. , he or she desires , from piles on a side-
table , goea personally for helpings from the
chafing dishes. The menu varies from three
to as high as eight different sorts of hot
delicacies , and the guests scat themselves
where they please to dispose of their per
tions.
IN THE SUPPER ROOM.
This season , ou'n at the most elaborate
I hostess Is obliged to subject her own treas
ured porcelain to peril. The caterer supplies
' all these new dishes and no aftermath , as a
' bill for breakage chills hospitable pleasure
I over a successful entertainment. Another
pretty and sensible plan at large balls ,
wedding receptions and muslcalcs , where
supper Is a feature , Ls the heaping of sand
wiches In graceful high-handled flower
baskets. On the brown or white wicker
plates the bread Is plied and topped by a
I silver wire fork , which holds a card. On
the card , In legible gilt letters. Is written ,
"ham , chicken , salad or Jelly sandwiches , "
as the case may be , nnd ns the maid passes
by , those who are hungry may read and
make their selection. As long as supper Is
in progress these baskets of bread nro kept
circulating' through the rooms , and the Ices
are dished up In the prettiest little paste
board boxes. Inside , the boxes are lined
with waxed paper , and It is a fact to be re
marked that napkins seem rarely or never
used now at such suppers.
IN THE .DRAWING ROOM.
After dinner or luncheon the very pretty
habit has been revived of the hostess mak
ing coffee In the drawing room and having
the liqueur offered from the coffee tray.
The coffee table Is arranged In one corner ,
or near the open fire , nnd on It Is set a
silver pot , which revolves over nn alcohol
lamp , and at once not only holla the bever
age , but strains It of the grounds , all In
the shortest space , with not even the amount
of manipulation ten making requires.
When the coffee Is made , It la handed to
the guest on a tray with liqueur bottles
nnd glasses , and for this season at least no
liqueur Is served with crushed Ice. Per
haps this coffco making In the drawing
room Is a subtle feminine choice for at
tracting the men away from the dining
room , their wine and cigars and now , as a
finishing touch to the dinner , luncheon , or
breakfast , every guest , on leaving his or
her hostess , finds a servant waiting In the
hall with n glars of some sparkling water ,
by way of a refreshment utter hot roomo
and a rich feast.
KlIHlllllllOtlN. .
Largo dots are seen on the most expensive
veils.
llorderlnps of fur are universal as a gar-
nlturo on day gowns , evening toilets and
wraps.
Sapphire velvet la quite , the rage. It
makes a handsome cloak , with a square
yoke collar of sable paws and outlined
scams of narrow jet.
Chiffon waists which Imvo been worn nil
summer can bo made warm and dressy by
a black velvet flgaro with draped rovers
and sleeves all lined with whlto satin.
Sleeves are growing smaller as winter
comes on , and fashionable Parisians are
now wearing them quite tight-fitting with
only a suspicion of a puff on the shoulders.
Felt hat , with an admirably posed green
ribbon bow , Is ono of the most marked
features In the millinery fashions of today.
U Is trimmed with a ruche of feathers.
Pink In all Its tones Is more becoming to
moro women than either yellow , blue or
mauve , oven when tlicaa last mentioned col
ors are enriched with velvet or veiled with
lace. >
lace.Winter
Winter coats , capes and cloaks , If not
wholly of fur , are extensively trimmed with
It , and point to preparation for the predicted
old-fashloucd sort of winter ot exceptional
eoverlty.
Eton Jackets and small boleros ot fur are
very much worn , und they add an air of do-
ganco to a very simple dress , and at the
same time. UHO up odd bits ot fur which
would hardly nnswer for any other purpose.
CollarcttcH of liable or black marten are
decidedly chla for wear with the tailor-
matlo gown , but In order to bo quite up-to-
date they tcuBt bo plentifully garnlahcJ with
tails- Indeed , some of the newest have tails
on the back , OR well AS front.
A very costly and elegant continue ot dark
Russian green cloth haa n bolero of sealskin
with a wide collar ot the fur nt the back.
A large "grannie" muff , nnd n cloth and fur
toque nre en suite.
The newest sealskin Jackets are short ,
moderately full around the bottom , close-
fitting In the back nnd loose nnd double-
breasted In front , with deep rovers , nnd high
rolling collar.
Some of the shoes and itandals for evening
wear nro exceedingly pointed , nnd many nro
richly emVoldercd ; others , following the
craze for Jewel effects , are decorated with
tiny Imitation gems.
Of nil furs , dead-white ermine In least
becoming to Its wenrer unless she hns n
rose-leaf complexion , nnd next In unbecom-
liiRiit-ss to ermine rnnks chinchilla. The lat
ter , If real. Is a very beautiful fur , but It
Is greatly Imitated nnd so vulgarized.
Evening gowns with square-cut necks nro
much worn this season. The square neck
la moro becoming to sloping shoulders than
the round nook , and lace nnd chiffon ruf
fles can bo used to give the edges a soft nnd
dainty IlnUh.
A pi'tunH velvet Jacket over a white satin
waist covered with rream Ineo Is nlso very
pretty with n black satin skirt or ono of
cloth to match the velvet , and n dainty fin
ish Is a two-Inch belt of white velvet with
n gold buckle nnd a cream lace and satin
collar band.
Without doubt , dark furs nre less tryltiR
to moat people than light furs nre , but tltu
hard , shining surface characteristic of so
ninny dark , short-hnlrcd furs Is to be
avoided. A derp-brown fur like mink , sable ,
seal or otter , Is moat becoming In n grayer
or brown dreso , and , Indeed , combines ad
mirably with most colors nnd color-mix
tures.
A pretty evening walet of chiffon In pale
blue , rope , lemon , errnm , lilac or Nile gret'ii ,
has the neck cut tvjimre and edged with fur.
It seems an Incongruous combination the
dainty , tnlstllkc material trimmed with win
ters richest fur- but the effect Is very
charming. Chinchilla , sable , ermine nnd
senl nro the best furs for trimming chiffon ,
being the softest nnd richest looking.
The smooth , beautifully dyed faced cloths
In which tailors dclltfit are the very bett
background for the Intricate nnd very effect
ive braiding nnd arabesque decoration en
nppllque so fiu'lilonnble UiU > winter. Ilrald-
Ing lu likewise applied to ratliiB. silks , vel
vet ? , and the hnndramely dyed dlk-llnlshed
velveteens mndc by Liberty In Ixindon.
The rnge for lare nnd embroidered chiffon
will bo n ; < great this winter as If both thcpe
exquisite textiles were In the first reason
of their popularity. In marked favor they
nre rivaled only by superb Jewel nnd bead
garnitures , uliaded From.1. ) embroideries en
applique , and very narrow fur edgings nil
of which nro lit for the adornltiK of a queen.
Rich expensive pelts tnko the lend among
the wealthy , but this season there Is nn
Immense variety of Imitations that for the
first time In their history are considered
by refined people ns good enough for skirt
borderlngs , edgings , etc. , for Instance , elec
tric seai nnd n very fair reproduction of
moulllon , the latter n soft-looking , close ,
full fur that In Its gray-blue tone looks
very well In connection with any material
of the snmo shade , or lighter or darker , ns
may be.
Among other expenrlvo and tlli'tlnp.Hlnhed-
looklng winter garmentn are long elegant
carriage rcdlngotrs made of finest ladles'
cloth , the single , double or trlph * capo
collars edged with otter , sealskin , mink or
chinchilla. These as a rule nre dark In
color ; some nro black throughout. Again
they nro made of very Klaigy canvl's Inlr.
Gorman broadcloth figured In Persian pat
terns , or of striped velours In black und gold
brown and ecru , chamois color and l > .inls'h
red , green and gold , or In three dl tlnt't
shades of one color.
I'VmliilniNottM. .
The duchess of Mnrlborotigh's recent fes
tivities nt Blenheim oastle cost $100,000.
Although the dnughtcr of George W. Cnblo
ins recently mnrrled. she still keeps up her
work of Illustrating her father's writings.
Lady Ileatrlcc IJutler , one of the famous
beauties of England , has taken to bicycling ,
nnd bids fair to become a proficient whccl-
womr.n.
Frau Wctto of Cologne , the distinguished
librettist of "Hansel nnd Grctcl , " has com
pleted n new fairy opera , writing the words
in addition to composing the music.
Ethel Nordhoff , daughter of Charles Nord-
hoff , hns chosen bookbinding ns n calling ,
and hat ) fitted herself for it by n course nt
a famous London bindery.
The Into Mrs. Scott-Slddons wns considered
by some people the most beautiful profes
sional woman seen on the stage or rostrum
for a quarter of a century.
Annie Corbln , daughter of the late Austin
Corbln. the New York millionaire , manaced
a small hotel last summer nt Shlnnecock
Hills , L. I. , nnd showed much ability in
the matter.
The much-traveled duchess of Cleveland ,
mother of Lord Rosebery , Is antlrlpatlng
n voyage to South Africa In December. No
other duchess living has explored the world
so thoroughly.
The now lady mayore.'H of London Is a
Jewess , with a great mass of snowy whlto
hair , and when lighted up with diamonds
nnd crowned with a glittering tiara , Is an
Impressive figure.
Miss Dora Splllar distinguished herself
In Essex , England , by riding to hounds on
a bicycle. She was thrown nevcral limes ,
surmounted six stiles , wns in nt the death
nnd was presented with the brush.
Mrs. John Russell Young of Philadelphia
addressed the 300 members of the New York
Chapter of the Daughters of the American
Revolution concerning the visit which LI
Hung Chang paid to her and her husband.
Miss Leila J. Robinson , one of the best
known of American women lawyers , Is the
clover author of "Tho Law Made Easy. "
It will be remembered she was the first
woman to practice at the bar of the supreme-
court of Massachusetts.
The princess royal of Italy Is a sculptor
as well as a musician. She has just mod
eled In clay a monument to her ancestor ,
Vladllla Danllo , which Is being finished off
by M. Tronchct , and will bo placed In the
Paris exhibition ot 1900.
Lady Lowls of Aberdare , England , will
In a lew days bo presented with a magnifi
cent silver desert service. Also two pend
ants In emeralds , rubles and diamonds , In
commemoration of the baronetcy conferred
upon her husband , Sir W , T , ' 1/cwls.
The czarina's favorite color Is white , so
much ( io that In St. Petersburg she has
como to be known as the whlto czarina. A
particularly pretty summer costume of hera
was of whlto silk , and lace , with an An
toinette fichu , nnd ono of the picturesque
empire bonnets , which , so far , none but
French women have dared to wear.
Mrs. Herman Davis of Now York hns rid
den her wheel over the great St. Bernard
pass. She Is 1110 first woman who has ac
complished this difficult and picturesque bit
of riding and not many men can duplicate
It. Accompanied by her husband , she has
traveled 2,000 miles on her wheel during
her summer vacation In Europe , making
between sixty and sixty-five miles a day.
A Paris dispatch says that the Duchess
do Ca Ccz , whoso death was recently an
nounced , died from syncope. The duchess
do Ca Cez was the daughter ot Isaac II.
Singer , the Inventor of the sowing ma
chine. Emperor Francis Joseph , the pope
and Duo d'Orlcans Imvo telegraphed their
condolences to the duke do Ca Ccz , Rep
resentatives of the royalist party will at
tend the funeral.
Princess Pauline of WurtemberR , who late
to marry Prince Christian , the eldest eon
of the crown prince of Denmark , ID ono of
the richest heiresses In Europe. U Is nnld
that rich aa Prlnco Christian's mother ,
the crown princess , Is , the Wurtcmbcrg
money will not bo unwclcomed to the Dan
ish royal family , as the crown princess'
fortune must bo divided among her BOVOII
children , The crown princess Is a notable
and thrifty housewife.
I happened to bo on the quay nt South
ampton , eays n writer In an English paper ,
when Mr. llecrbohm Tree called for Amer
ica the other day. Hla charming wife
( who , by the way , will rcclto at a ballad
concert before the end ot the season ) was
tlicro to sco him off. There came , too , Ills
golden-haired daughter , Viola , who , iil-
thouKh only 12 years old , has grown very
nearly na tall na her mother. When "King
John" Is produced nt her majesty's. It IH
prohablo tyat thu clover child will plity the
part ot Prluco Arthur ,
Mine. Yale's
Great Remedies.
WHY EVERY WOMAN SHOULD USE THEM ,
No onp will iittc'lupt lo illrputc the fuel Hint It
In ( n u vvonmn'H mlvntitnKi' lo IKK * t looklliKi
tlicivforo II In an uiKi-nt m > rr lty Hint o\i > ry
woman mnkrK II n imit'tlri1 to take euro atrr \ \ -
pv\t \ anil UPI rvrry moan * Known to cnlumoo her
liliYKlfiil | H' | foot Inn , mul thrirtiy rvlulii h < T nolf-
rcpprct and happlnc ? ? .
The ailvanrt'il mrtlioil * of l-oniltlfylni ; no * ur-
ccMfnlly rniioycil | | iiy Mine. YnU > run trip p\rry
wiiiuan In I.IP liinil l < i n-Kiilatp her own lirniity
mill InrrcuH * her KOOI ! looks every day. Wlirit
Mine. Yale llri-t nia'le ' her illeo\pries flie dlil not
IIFU any one to use them until the lirrrrif Imil
iloiu < so. She illil not niako a claim for them
until flulirrrrir Imd KTOIIIP lirnutlrul fioin llielr
lire , mul now. at the ORP of 4S , mnl after urine
her own temeilles for twenty-two > onn , she la
releliratetl as the most lieautlful woman llvlne ,
Is a Riainl demonstration of what her remeillpa
will ilo ; therefore till * IH why e\ery woman In
the lulu ) Flumlil use Mine. Ynlc'H remedies , ami
UTO lilenty of them , and tro\v ; teautlful and be.
cotnn hnmiv.
YALE BEAUTY PRICE LIST.
Yale's Pkln ( for wrinkle * )
2 Klies nnd $3.00 a Jar
Yiilo 'n Coniltlrxlon rrcnm 1.00 n jar
Yale ' 's Complexion lllcaeh 2.H ( ) a Imlll *
Yale ' ' Mkeelslor Hair Tonic 1.00 a Imltin
Yale 's Hair fleanser l.CO a liottlo
Yale ' 's l.a Krrekla ( for freekles ) l.W n Inittlo
Yale 's SH | > rliil l < ntl nCor lilaeKheadn ) l.CO n lioltlo
Yale's Sperlal Ointment ,
( for pimples and i-UIn diseases ) . . . . 1.00 a Jar
Yale' Hand Whltener 1.00 n bottle
Yale'saee ] Powder ffl
Yale's Comple\lon Soap ; .1
Yale's KlUlr < if lleaiity ( skin tonle ) . 1.0(1 ( a iMitllo
Yales's l-Yrtlllzer ( cures ronrtlpatlon ) l.M a li.ittlo
Yale's Illood ami I.lvi-r Tonic l.W a liotllo
Yale's l' ° riillenra ,
( for female uedkness ) 1.00 a liottln
.Stilil Iiy All DruuulxtH anil IK-nlrr * .
Mme. Yale's "Guide to Beauty. '
Will lie mailed free upon application. Address
Mine. M. Yule. Temple of Ilntity. Chlcnso
Kor snlc by 11OSTON KTOIli : DIU'O DIM'T. ,
Omaha , Neb.
WOOD'S Wcaro
ICE KINGExelusiro
WM T.Wood&Co.'sCc'cDrated
Ice Tools.
Jas. Morton & Son Co. ,
Wrllo for C'atnlosiio. O.V.AHA. NRIl
CURED.
Mll'AIS itkHptntin
H.r.1.V .fr llk ft l-ro.f.
LTH RtNEWSVobTHFUL
tearorwJ's
\Vo semi tlio 1'rcucli Home
.
CALTII08 IVec. ( " 1 > .O. li'D nJ . [
li'KiilKiiaraitC'OtliatCAi.TII)3 ) will I
Hl'OI * Illnchurfffti unil rmlMlont , t
i'lTltl' -rmntvrriri. . Vurlcorrlof
nn.l . UKslOHi : l.o.t Vigor.
t < ic it and fay if sclisfifJ ,
VON MOHL CO. , 332 D ,
Hole Jmrrlrin lft U , ClntUioU. Ohio , fen f
on MORPHINE HABIT
PAINLESSLY & PERMANENTLY CURED
r > rc. n.
PAINLESS © TOftl ANTIDOTE
ORIGINAL AND ONLY GENUINE REMEDY.
Discovered in IBGO. "THERIAKI" Book Free.
Office 312. 70 Monroe Street , C\\IC \ \ ( Ci\ \
P. 0. Drawer 053. UHtAUU ,
FREE 209 PAGE BOOK
on Kriursur Ynutli. Ixwl Vigor ami illR'ajun of Imtli
witw. llnwUilMTiniHi well and Mroim. J > o iiciiN | ! .
UrVil.W. 1,01111Ui:0 H.I.TIM M.I'tiUu.,1'1. .
HOME INOUSTRIES
Y purchasing oods made
at the following Nebras
ka factories. If you can
not find what you want ,
communicate with the
manufacturers as to
w h a t dealers handle
their goods.-
BAOS. DUULAP AND TWINE.
III3MIS OMAHA 1IACJ CU.
Manufacturer * of all klnli of cotton and bur
lap baB . cotton Hour carki and twlno a > peo-
lafty. 6K-UG-C18 H. lltli Kl.
BUEWEIUKS.
OMAHA immvi.vu ASSOCIATION
Car load ihlptnent * made In our own fern * ,
erator cart , lime Jllbbon. Ullto lOsoort. VleiiM
Kxport and Family Kiporl delivered to all ponu
of the city.
IRON WOIUC8.
DAVIH A COWOIM , IUU.V WOUKB.
Iron mul Urn * * I < 'uiiiulurn.
Manufacturers nnd Jobber ) ot Machinery. O n.
< r l repairing a ipeclaliy. Ml , 1MJ and UOf
Jickion street , Omaha , Nett.
INUUSTUIAIj IIIO.V WOIUCS.
Manufacturing and repairing of all klnfli ot
machinery , eniclnu , pump * , ulovutom , iirfnllnir
preMPn , liunpeiB , ittiufunic una coupling * , 11(4 ( ma
UOJ Howard St. . Omaha.
IMX'l'ON * VIBUMNO IIIO.V WOItlC ! } .
Manufacturer * of Architectural Iron Work.
General Kuundry. Machine and lilackmnltrl work.
UnglneerH and Contractor * for Kliu Troof Ilulld-
lnt ; . Olllce and works : U. I * . Ity. end B9.
17th * tr t , Oinntii.
NIQIIT WATCH , FIHB HEIWCB.
AMKUICAN DlbTHICT Tn
The. only perfect protection to property. Cum-
fno 'I. Hen thing on eartli. Reduce ! Iniuranw
rate * . l ! l Douglc. * itiett.
HHIHT FACTORIES.
J , II. TTvANH MJIIHAHICA HIIIH'H
COMPANY.
Exduilr * euttoni * hlrt Ullori.
