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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Nov. 8, 1896)
THE OMATTA DAILY HTF : MMMV , VOVEMllEH 8. 1890. 11 l l OF WOMAN. MIOW X fir ml i\tillill of rintlir. ii Well no Smart lliir i < ftri li. NEW YORK. NOY. ! . Klch and beautiful will be the raiment In which fa hlondom Hi-Ill ihortly dl porl lUelf at the horse thow. For ome time winter gowns hare been seen and worn , but It taken the occasion at thU annual function fur smart winter toggery to burst Into Its finest flower , an > ! sd give the common world a chance to see what winter clothe * really are. This year , as u ual. the ibow is advertised to lait only a week , doling about November 17 ; but It will be a wetk of tremendous Impor tance for the tashlon-raakers , anil TO much a feature of It has floe dressing become that it really sems now is If the name of the exhibition should bo clothes show Instead of horse show. At all of the smart drecemaklng estab lishments finishing touches arc being put to splendid gowns created for this especial occasion. The milliners too are ohowlng horse show hats , the furriers horse shn v wraps , and , to Judge fron. the pita : names dropped here A FELIX COMPOSITION and there socletv Is to be as well reprc ented this scaicn ax ever A BELLE MODEL. Some beautiful Importations In gowns and wraps were shown by i well known Fifth avenue house. With the gowns great changes wcro observed In the cut "of skirts , which. In wool and cloth Instances , are now qulto narrow as compared with those of even two months ago. A bell model with only three scams is a favorite one for sklrta in these stuffs whether made plainly or trimmed. The shape of this Is somewhat "on the order of the old circular skirt , except that there Is a narrow front gore to give a llttlo stand off fling at the bottom. Sides and back are In oue the backs meeting in a bias team , but where one of these skirt * will have the back arranged In several In- turning plaits , another will be folded into two big godets , held la place underneath bj tapes. Ono charming little bell skirt in the Im ported collection bad neither plaits nor godets at the back. It was extremely nar row and cut up back and front In such an umbrella fashion that It met without ful ness , fitting the hips skin tight , and hang ing about the feet in an easy slightly stiff ened circle. SUMPTL'OUS TRIMMINGS. In the way of materials , the gowns shown for horse show service revealed the fact that plain cloth Intends to stay in , all the talk against It at the beginning of the season notwithstanding. But all faced clothes are made lighter weight than for merly and with the narrower skirt little stiffening is used so that a cloth gown Is not now the deadly thing It once waa. Velvet and rich tinsel and silk em broideries trim the plain clothes with su perb effect. A gown of pale brown may be trimmed with green , the velvet band on the skirt bottom cut out In arabesques at the top. and appllqued to the cloth with a magnificent embroidery in several colors A tiny bolero entirely of the embroiders on velvet may coter a second one of cloth on the bodice , the bodice proper , and eleeves perhaps , being made of the velvet A Paquln frock realized in these materials colors , and style was capped by a satin girdle In bright gold yellow with a long bias end crossing the front and pinning high at the left bust. Girdle and short , -c DAHLIA COLORED MOIRE. jacket effects mark the majority of French street frocks , But the jackets are simple andjimall and the girdles of medium height , five Inches at utmost , so that non-exaggeration may bo said to be the mark of the French frock and the sign manual of the meat perfect makers of the world. The American copy is somehow always carried a little further , more la the pity , and d pravlty of our tastra. And so much is this national fondness for running every thing In tbe ground recognized In Paris that the French fashion In Its most Ideal hape ta rarely shown the raw American buyer. ELOQUENT EXAMPLES At the Fifth avenue boose mentioned were ceen gown * euch as Frecch women wear. Some uf the best makers were rep- rwenttd , Felix , Doucet. Paquln , RaudnHi and all tbe rest of them , each toilet revealIng - Ing some special creation In cut or color of its celebrated falt ur Out of a number of these fine winter frock * Imported for the horse fthow. fer the smartest women of tbe city , a few were selected as the best examplfe They are Illustrated on this page and may be recognised ac follows1 A toilet en trane of dahlia-colored rnolre Is for a young married woman of blonde coloring. The silk Is In a pale dahlia , with pink reflections : the train detni-length , ap plications of Hcniton point lace form an apron effect at the front gore of the skirt. The bolero bodice , of the lace over deep purple s tln. Is girdled by a wide corslet bolt of the lame. The vest te also of lace , the sleeves of moire finished by a band of sealskin , which also trims the bottom of the skirt and the top of the high color. This pown with Its delicate evenlnsr col oring and dark fur. tva * dellshtful. Many otl ers in i le t.nt . and even the airiest evening affairs showed somber fur trim mings , with such a regal effect , that cne felt Inclined to thank the llltle czar of Rujsl.i for having given us thl * fashion. COSTUMES EN REGAL. A costume In pal ? brown velvet. Just the shade of an. almond's huck. was made xUh : entre-ilcus of heavy white lace bordered narrowly with Russian sable. The skirt of this Is a tor > narrow bell with the l.ice Insertions disposed In points to form a tablltr effwt. B4.use > bodice and gizot sleeves In one piece , ornamented in the same way. The lining Is ol maize slik. which ghes a gold reflection to the lace and enhances the richness of the fur ede This toilet was a Felix composition. lc- slgtied for a young lady of brunette com plexion. A magnificent costume In velours brocade bore Paquln's stamp Thouch joung in effect , thla had a stately look befitting Its splendid material ? The white silk back ground of tljp gown stuff Is lined with i-- regular stripe : la rafted black velvet. The trimming Is white broadcloth , embroidered with Jet and forming a shirt jacket with jHitllloni at the back , and a wKle band at the bottcm o' the klrt. The clo e sleeves of tbe brocade arc widened at tbe shoulders by big bows of black velvet and the girdle Is of the same. BODICE ARRANGEMENT. The two remaining frocks give a pair of simple and becoming ways of arranging a bodke sc It can b worn without a wrap Fcr of ocure , except in ettremest weather these much-befurred bodice * are not to be o\ered up A fur cravatte with the sev- ral 'ails now exacted will muffle the thpiat. ant on bitter days a chamois underbuy orab" added underneath , hut ulth terse xcfptlons the fur-trimmed body must take all the responsibility of the cold weather < -n it ! , own sbxulders. If. howeter , the ffect of the other trimming accords , a allet or narrow shoulder cape with a high stand-up collar of tbe fame skin , may be added With a costume of dragoon-blue cloth iho fur on the bodlco takes tbe form of a sleet eless bolero of deeply marked mink. The corsage is of the cloth with a larse plait shaped at tbe frout , tbe folded belt VELOCRS BROCADE AND JETTED BROADCLOTH. Is of the same. Introducing other folds of satin In tbe brown of the fur. High fur collar , medlcl shape , and cloth sieves in one piece , with fullness held down at the top by two mink skins folded In bands and finished with beads. Tbe skirt has a bell front with three godets at the back. It is finished with thtee narrow folds of the cloth with stitching of brown. HORSE SHOW WRAPS. The wraps shown with the horse show- frocks were exclusively frivolous affairs. Mere collets , the most of them little frills of velvet or fur. and so bedecked with lace , ribbon and flowers that It could be plainly seen they were for beautifying purposes alor.e. But enormous capes of monkey skin , sable and other furs will be worn with street gowns later on. Though wider , and com ing below the waist line , these have some thing of tbe look of the old coachman af fairs worn several years ago. One of these big monkey skin capes , and a vast muff to match , will be found a hand some and useful winter purchase. With u plain cloth gown in any rich color they are extremely effective. NINA FITCH. t'TIMZIXG OI.I ) JUWnLIIV. llotr Otmolete Trcnxure Mny lie Matle Ilraiitlfii ! . There are perhaps few of us who have not on band quite a collection of old jewelry , which we occasionally take a look at , and sigh over , because there seems no avallablo way of utilizing It. for the antique gold brooches , dangling earrings and wonderful bracelets of thirty or more years ago stand little fbow of being again made fashionable by our modern workers in gold and jewels. There are/ however , several wajs in whick these obsolete treasure * may bo made to lerve a purpose both useful and beautiful. The huge oval brooch , for Instance , worn by your mother , -will make a beautiful frame for a miniature or other small picture , if the collection of human hair or other curious center is taken out. Then there are those terrible silver man acles which we wore quite cheerfully our selves not eo very long ago. A dainty use for theje. and one which'will commend It- svlf to all who like something unique for their toilet tables , Is merely to transform them tntd pincushions. First clean tbe bracelet thoroughly and then elue tbe lower edge very firmly onto an oval shaped piece of cardboard. When the bracelet has etuck well , cut the board to the extreme edge and proceed to make your cushion. Thfc must be oral of course , and can be filled with bran. Then slip the remaining bangles over the cushion at equal distances apart. The cushion need not be glued to the card board Inside , for It Is better left free to come in and out. when the silver rims can be easily cleaned. Every woman who can afford thsm and a creat many who cannot are buying gold and Jeweled hatpirj Why not make an unbearable pair of earrings Into beautiful and original hatpins * Only recently I saw two such , one made of the "tops" fas tened together back to back , and tte other of one of the "drops. " The earrings In question were very old fashion ? d , repre senting serpents in gold with ruby eyes ; but in an altered form they are as much admired now as In the days when they served as decorations to a grandmother's pretty ears. One of the most original ways of turnIng - Ing unwearable jewelry into a thing of beauty was confided to me by a clever friend the other day. I noticed she was wearing one of the new chatelaines , with only a set of tablets and a tiny chain purse suspended from 1t , the whole being cf gold. When the proud possessor told me It had cost her something under { S. I refused to be convinced until she made the following revelation- The large clasp at the waist was merely a solid gold brooch of elaborate design and workmanship which had been put away for some twenty years , and the two narrow chains which hung from it had originally been tbe pair of bracelets to match. From one of these depended a flat gold locket of Incredible size , which had been unbinred. slightly cut at the edges and furnished with It cry for n.aklng notes on , and a tlnv gold pencil. From the other hung a real old chain purse ( re- gilt of course ) the whole forming a most iitilque chatelaine. THI : HUM \-\TIC crm. . It linn HfMirneil nntl l Pnlllnsr ( Her Fair MionliltT * . The curl Is a decided feature of this sen- son's coiffure Not tbe curl In the mid dle of the forehead or on the nape of Use neck , either waved tress or frlzette Is meant by this , but a rcund glossy , cylindrical < url unbroken In outline and capable of bobbing" in captivating fashion with each mo"n of the wearer. "Wearer" is ihe correct term , for many of these curls are pu : on and do not grow on the heads they ornament. There are coiffures for the street with dalntv short curia cropping out in all di rections from among the soft colls. The ends of the figure "debt" are left t3 curl tn carefully unstudied order , a trim Psyche knot finishing the "eight" at the top ; again the back hair Is braided and turned up. the ends being brought down again and passed through the bottom of the braid to fall in two or three ringlets. All this is for the street , or a simple homo toilet , h-it no evening coiffure to be worn with full dress will be complete without a curl or two falling on the neck. Then. too. it must be noted that extremely high hair dress ing is altogether "out ; " In no ce e < t--v s the coiffure tower above the forehead as formerly. The crown of the hi-id rat it r far back Is where the center of the coils and puffs must be pitched , and ever ? wonftn who Is her own hair dresser kncwa the Importance of getting this base of opera tions established In just the right spot. If either too high or too low the result is disastrous The three or four inch long curl Is a dis tinctive addition to an evening coiffure. It enhances the fairness of a pretty neck and captivates the fancy. Twenty or thirty years ago every young or fashionable woman wore a solitary curl straying coquettishly over her left shoulder or brought over to the front to wander among the jewels and laces on her corsage. The curls In those days provided Inspiration for susceptible poets , and although the curl of this season has attained no great length , yet it Indexes what Is to come , and It is safe to predict that the verse-makers will again have a chance. There Is no denying that there Is a charac ter expression in a curl , one curl win be airy and frivolous looking , another lachry mose and drooping ; yet another audacious. Yes. there are curls and curls , and w.e are to have all sorts. A THIIIFTV UMPHKSS. The Iiinirtlc * Oiitle * of flip ICnl orln if ( : TIIIIIH > . A book explaining "How to Be Happy. Though a Queen. " would undoubtedly find large sales in all European courts except that of tbe empress of Germany She Is oue of tbe few feminine crowned heads who might truthfully be described as finding as much solid homely contentment in her hus band's palaces as any honest workman's wife In her vine-clad cottage. This Is a good deal more than can be said for her sister majesties who , probably with the exception of Queen Vletr-rla and tbe jolly little girl who will some day rule Holland , are a weary and unsatisfied class of women , at least their faces bear all tbe marks of rather peevish discontent and un satisfied longings. Not so , however , does Empress Augusta Victoria , who was never an heiress In her girlhood , who at IS wan told to marry a young man deeply In love with another woman and who between a clever , critical mother-in-law and her hua- i ' u 5 . , 1 , h y o fill i ' at * h' (31 , rta. , .i.k.ur > ai > 'h.rR but a Sod of msrt , . All her early years PrInceeXfVbgueta spent with her mother and filters It.the modest. I not to say fraeal. court of Itonig. for her j father , the grand duke of ScUfeVk-Holiteln. I was poor In all but pride and Ins wife and daughter * practiced the most rife Id economy j I The prince * * wa * taught to cflAK and eew. to ' 1 carry the ke > . give out tht. cftan linen , to' ' I play the piano , a bit on th violin , to speak English and French ant ] &jr Lutheran catechfem. Ten to one be never thought about lovers or marriage until the moat flattering offer arrived for her hand , from Jbe court of Ber lin. ' , . , A ROYAL ROM.VNCE. Undoubtedly the match was. from a worldly point of view , excellent , but there were bit ter words and almost a tragedy behind the fiatterlag offer When the present emperor of Germany was at the most susceptible point In his career he fell In love , and It was char acteristic of the young man that he fell wildly and desperately , choosing for the object of his adoration tbe beautiful elder sister of the ctarloa. who Is now the grand duchtfjs Serge of Russia. Of course this was all very fine and ro mantic , but state policy came before hearts and as there would be nothing to * aln by marrying the heir of the German throne tea a prince's of Hesse Darmstadt. Bismarck told Emp ror William It wouldn't do at all The old emperor , of course broke the news A GROl'P OF HORSE SHOW TOILETS. to his grandson , who stormed and sulked , finally promised obedience and when asked to look about and select some other nice young princess broke out -nrith : "Choose whom you like ; It is absolutely the same to me , 89 long as H'Js not one of the English lot. " Of course this -was just what the Iron chancellor wanted , and to heal the long standing breach betweeen the Holstelners and the Prussians he proposed for tbe Princess Augusta's hand and Prince Wil liam went a-woolng Naturally he did not find In his prospective bride any such rare beauty and accomplishments as his Hessian cousin possessed , but at any rate he did meet an amazingly robust , sen sible young woman with the freshest pink and white skin , nice blue e > es , fair hair and a charmingly amiable temper. THE PRINCESS' PATIENCE. Moreover she endured his cool courtship with a great deal of dignity and was quietly married to htm in 1SS1 at the Schlois chapel of Berlin on a cold February day. After that her trials began In earnest for In trigue was rife at the German court. Bis marck and the Crown Princess Frederick were svrorn enemies and Prince William took a prominent part In all these doings , but his wife triumphed In the end. She re mained the same cheerful , busy , amiable young woman of her girlhood days , healed WjRVJy KS = . iM y F s * * * t < r 4 ! tjf .3 > 3 . . ? THE EMPRESS OF GERMANY. quarrels by a mild word at the right time and presented her husband In turn with five rosy sturdy boys. In whatever palace she may be stopping her days are as carefully laid out as those of her husband , and from her own waiting maids to the scullions ne keeps an eye on every sertant. Unless confined to her bed b > Illness the empress ii iditarlably up by C every morning and S o'clock1 finds her pourIng - Ing the emperor coffee This meal their majesties take quite alone , serving each other and gossiping together like any middle class couple and at 9 sharp her royal high ness may be expected In jthe nurseries. The needs of seven young iolk"require a keen eje of superintendence and the empress Is passionately fond of ( pending time and money on her children' , * clothes. It is the kalserln's oqe extravagance that she is constantly replenishing their wardrobes , looking over chlllren's fashions sent her from Paris , London and New York , but ordering every garnient , made by Ger man needle women B , very-stitch of the elaborate layettes provjdedu for her seven babies nhe and her sisters have laid in and embroidered , and by 10 o'clock the royal housekeepers are received. Lists of dishes for the luncheon tnd dinner of the day are handed her and at her discretion , always with an eye to her husband's preferences , the menus are chosen. After the menus are selected she considers household bills and then writes her own letters. DAILY DUTIES. All this while that ebe is presiding in the nursery the kalserln wears a soft white morning gown , a good deal on the wrapper pat'ern. and a vast white apron , and the children looked after , she investigates her beloted linen closet. No one but herself Is allowed to give out even the most modest duster , and on shelves , reaching to the cell ing , are stored vast hoards of white bolts , heapa of snowy table and bed clothes suf ficient ' to supply many families. By 11 o'clock the empress dresses for a drive -with her * husband , or a walk with her children , and at 1 'the ' entire royal family meet at luncheon. ThU U strictly a fatally feast , and after I- h the youSRs'irs ha , * ai hjur or tn r w 'h thir ( .an ns : or a' * .taj ( < i. .1 3 > I k TJirn In a quiet reieptlm toilet the im1 preR 1 < at home In her drawing room * to callers. No great formality reigns. Women come to pay their respects , open phllan- thralc schemes , and every one who teemi throplc scheme * , and every one who seetni Is permitted to eater. At dinner I * announced , and this I * th grand meal of the day. The empree * then appears In full state toilet and many jewels. The company Is always large and brilliant , a page In splendid cottume stands behind every second chair , and bwtde each plate is aid. not only the menu printed In German. > ut a program of the music discoursed hrouehout the feast The foot ! U sure to M > good , and a great deal of Wagner's , SutI Iran's. Weber's and Dellbe s harmonies rtoc from the Icvtalble orchestra , composed of no leas than twenty-four pieces. A VFITMAN IIKUMIT. Mir I.lvril on n lonrl > I lnn < t for Sev enteen } cnr . During the prr ent summer the writer ( a correspondent of the New Y < vk Sun ) made the attempt to land on the Island of San Nicolas , an almost barren taa s of sand lying sixty miles off the coast of Southern California , the extreme outlying point of the coast. We passed the little Island of Santa Barbara late In the afternoon , and at o'clock were five miles from the outer island. This was about seven miles long , and In portions SCO feet hlch. Around the summit of Its low hills a bank of cloud had gathered , and piece by piece waa being torn away by a gale that had gathered so rapidly that after lying to for five hours in an at tempt to weather it out. we were forced to bear away and run before It under a close- rcefeJ foresail for a Ice sixty mllt-s away. This Island lies in an area of constant gales , and Is almost unapproachable except luring the calm periods ol the winter , and en then , owing to the storms that sud- ! enly rise. It is a dangerous place for . achts. Notwithstanding this. San Nicolas ass bad within two centuries a vigorous native population , and with Its barren shores la associated a true story that bears all the essentials of a romance of the Cm- eoe order. Within the present century the laat of the natives were taken ai ore by crd r of the priests at the Santa Barbara mission , under Instructions frtm the Mtxl- . fan government. The Indians had been I living there from time Immemorial sub i sisting on fi h ( and she-lltoh ) . with whlh j the waters abound. A veseel was sent to theUland and all the Indians fere taken aboard with the exception of cne woman , whose child or chlldrta had been forgotten It la believed that a cale was coming on. and that the skipper found hte little craft In Ainger. and so put off. Others say that the woman was purposely deserted. In any event , the boat sailed away leaving her standing alone on the beach , and being "only an Indian woman. " It probably mat tered llttlo to the other hunters , who were clad to get away from the rough * . When the Indians were landed at cants Barbara It was said to be the Intention of the captain to return and rescue the woman But not long after the ship was wrecked , and sa the montbs and years slipped away , and the story of the lost woman became- almoat a legend her appearance often be ing pictured by the story tellers of the day and her one quaint cry of "Manetjauna" being repeated to credulous listeners. Sev enteen > eers went by. and the woman was almost forgotten , until finally Padre Gon- zales. excited by curiosity to learn her fate hired a resident of Santa Barbara to make a careful search fcr her. and a a result three unsuccessful trips were made to the fe land On the last Captain Ntderer took several Indians , and after several attempts succeeded In landing. They soon found evi dence that some one lived on the Island discovering a basket containing feathers. This they dUturbed. and on visiting it the following day found the feathers replaced It was eildent that the woman was avoid ing them , so they formed a line as well as they could across the Island and marched In regular order 200 yards apart. Even then they could not find her. and It was only when they had nearly given up the hunt that one of the party anally stumbled upon three huts and the woman , who was sitting on the ground , with a wild dog beside her. which growled fiercely at the strangers. The man signaled to the others , and the entire party was soon gathered about the woman , -who bad lived a life as remarkable as that of Crusoe. She could not under stand a word that was said The Indians of the party thinking that she was a sacred pcrsoj. fell on their knees before her She was a comely woman. 40 or 50 years of age. dressed In skins of sea birds or shags , which were fastened to sealskin. About her were baskets cleverly made , and to the windward of her but. which was made of the ribs of a whale , she had built a wind- rake of brush and grass She had dishes of stone , in which she ground roots of various kinds , and her clothes were sewed with thread made from sealskin and with needles from the bci.es of birds She consented to go aboard the vessel and was carried to Santa Barbara v 1th all her belongings , which were considered great curiosltlts. her dress of skins being sent to Rome to the pope. At Santa Barbara she lived In the family of one of her rescuers , and though Indians | from all over the state visited her no one could be found who could understand her. She was a perfect child , playing for hours at a time , and making eigns which could not be Interpreted. She was baptized and given a Spanish name and at her death was burled in the old mission graveyard having survived the change from savage to civilized life less than two months. \vonic ron K.vnt Here An * Some Illnto for Mnlilner IIol- lilit ) Gift * . "If you want to look right sew your but tons on tight" Is the motto painted in water colors on a novel button bag that is being finished for the holidays. The main part of this bag Is one-half yard of two-Inch ribbon , and its construction is quite simple. Fold the ribbon In half , and In the fold place a spool of patent shoe thread ; above It on the silk lightly mark a line in order that when a row of machine stitching Is run across the spool will be held in place , but not so lightly that the thread cannot be unwound Above the thread pocket make a similar pocket for the paper of needles , then one for the scissors , and above this join the sides of the ribbon to form a small bag. Turn down the rough edges of the ribbon and make a narrow casing In which a small cord Is to be run This not only draws up the little button bag , but serves to hang up the entire article. To the back of the bag attach six buttonholed leaves of white flannel for the needle-book The motto can first be outlined en the ribbon with a soft pencil and then embroidered in with silk. Bright red and olive green make a dainty , pretty bag Papers that accumulate In odd corners are often a sourca of despair to the thrifty housewife , and I am sure that such a newspaper case as I saw the other day would be of the greatest use. as It Is large enough to hold a quantity of papers. It Is quite decorative , and one might be put in every bedroom , as well as in the library or sit ting room. To make such a case a yard of fancy matting In rich , deep colors Is re quired. The selvedged edges form the sides ; the rough edges are somewhat dlfScult to manage , and the best way Is to turn them down and fasten them along at regular In tervals with patent brass fasteners , clenchIng - Ing them on the wrong side. Trim off the ends of the straw neatly Turn up the lower end and tack It to the back with twine and a carpet needle , and finish the sides with large bows of satin ribbon , attach ing two big brass rings at the top , by which to hang up the case Decorate the front with a bunch of dried grasses or work "Papers" across It with heavy worsted. A piece of satin fifteen inches wide and ten inches deep forms a charming sewing bag. This Is to be folded in half and sewed up the side and bottom. The portion form ing the top Is cut to fashion four tabs two and a half Inches la depth. The bag Is lined throughout with silk or satin , forming a sort of binding at the top of the tabs , and Is drawn up by ribbon run through a casing. The sides are trimmed by bows of ribbon and frills of lace , and on the front Is embroidered the initial of the person for whom the bag Is Intended , surrounded by an Empire wreath. This bag develops prettily In black ami blue satin , with lace. A handsome case for a writing pad is of white linen , mounted on a pasteboard foun dation , twelve by eight Inches. The front Ir daintily decorated with pink clover dentIn water colors , and & pink tnolre ribbon holds i 'be [ al la lu- > nr wl. * I1 as a ' 3.v at Irte toj to i nt--01 1 \tfi ht " t i ' \ , 1 prr aud un Icr side * are loop * of leather for bol Hr.a pn * nd pencil * n < l for binding the eorers together. A pretty banging letter bolder b awful for the desk and I * elly m le Th * beck Is cut from cardboard fancifully rhapeU and roverrit with plain cllk. elaborately em broidered with bower * In embroidery UV To this section Is attached a pocket of bright flsrurcrl llk , gathered nf r the top ta form I a frill , and ftnlaetl al the bottom with ? ilk ) i U se : . The holder to ornmnfntrd at top and side ? by boms of wide satin or ltk rlb- bon. I 1 At the matinee the other dar I noticed a I dainty trifle that contributed to the com ' fort of It ! pretty owner , who kept In It her op ra pUfses. vlnalcrette. handkrn-blrf. coin I purse and bonbonnlere I looked closely at { the Mr and will tell you how It was maJe The bottom wa < a circle of pule creen bra- cade , about five Inches In diameter The sides ofelvrt , measured about thirteen Inches In depth and about twenty-one Inches ! ' In width. These nere plaited on the circle * | the two ends joined up. and the top was turned oxer three Inches to form a frill He- 1 low this n s a raaln * . through which was . run velvet ribbon one Inch In width , to draw- ( i up the tag. Dernrntlnc ; the sides and con cealing the openinca where the drawstring * i [ came out were two bows of wider ribbon ! I and over the velvet point d'esprlt lace was | arranged. In double box-plaits , the upper j odce tacked to the velvet frill to keep It In an upright position. The bag win lined with I ' pale preen China silk , and the Front-by dec- t oration put on as a finishing touch wji a spray of pink silk chrj anthvmuras. Pa hi n n Note * . The new moires are something to wonder over. Dress skirts are cut narrower on the fronts and silos and certainly many of the winter bklrtx are to be trimmed. Tln > dots are on new repped goods that are woven of double cord width In russet , gray-blue , olive-gray or black. Many of th ? silks and satin brocades aru over | > atterr.ed and color-mixed to the extent of vulgarity , cost what they may. CbeUots and vigognes have two colors , one of which iscry often brown , as a blue diagonal alternating with che&tnut. or else green with tan or russet brown. Fur barn's , slllr p ! t'mentiric < , en ap- pllque velvet bands , pipings. polt.U. and blocks , rows of gtinp. braid ana velvet rib bon < x > tistltule tome of the new skirt decora- tloas. ' Corded silks and silk sud wonllen rpp are once more In fashionable favor. Fur durability and handsome appcaraace few ma terials can compare with the silk-warp repped wools. Pale sitlr.s with broad blocks of black satin are sprigged with ( eaves , shamrocks , apple bljsbotus End chrysanthemums In short , the season's motto hecms to be " " "Excess Striking bonnets In deep empire green , cerise , or Spanish yellow , are laid in fine folds from side to side , alternating with fine jet or bronze bead braid , giving a pretty effect of stripes. For theater wear are pretty velvet capos with very flaring Medici collars , trimmed with ostrich feathers and llucJ with color like the cape , and a. smart little bonnet matches thlc lining in hue. Many of the fancy wools are woven In f-.vj colors , threads of heavy silk outlining the wool figure Green wools have markings and uudtrweaves of Danish red. while brown Is similarly woven with blue or dahlia red Fur and vrhet are In crest vogue , but these two elegant materials should always be used la volume and never cut up into snippets and "gingerbread work" that add little In the way of warcth. and reallv b * mean these textiles. A city bridesmaid recently wore with it rose-pink satin eo n a plcure 1 at of cream- white velvet the brim near the head showing a lining of shell-pink satin , the bat rolled somewhat at the left side , and come soft brautlful white ostrich plumes dropped over Its tdge. Plain Venetian and "faced" cloth of ex quisite fineness Is reckoned among the fabrics suitable for very stylish and elegant visiting and dinner gowns , and Its light weight allows of more d < * llcate colors being used for day ccetumcs than It would be possible In a less heavy textile. Ingenious minds have come to the rescue , to aid In producing new guises for once despised fur , and now the skunk fur , wholl ) deodorized , passes for "Alaska sable , " and the humble rabbit , deeply dyed , comes tc the fore under several crptlvatlng titles Some of the metamorphosed fur might de- reive even an expert. It looks so exactly what It is not ' . Regardless of the time of year , violets June roses yellow daffodil * jonquils aurt shaded apple blossoms In velvet appear upon bats and bcnuets for late autumn and winter wear. Rce clusters without Jollace and dangling single blossoms and buds In termixed with feather tips and plumes droop over the hst brims and are closely massed ou a crown-bandeau on black and dark sreen or ruby velvet models. The Ktyllsh and rich-looking silk and wool mixtures will be larcely employed In the making of church , visiting and promenade costumes for thf winter In Its weaving the silk threads are thrown almost wholly on the surface of the goods and a rich lustrous effect produced. Some of the fabrics are in handsome shaded effects , others show a mixture of Danish red. mosp- green. and black , amber brown violet and reseda , gray , golden olive , and dahlia red etc Again the ribbon weavers have great caunr for elation. The looms are flying , for ribbons bens are to bo used all winter , and par ticularly during the holiday season , when leagues and tons of ribbons are utilized Wide rtbtxnfi will again flow from the nape of the neck nearly to the skirt hem a la Watteau. on evening toilets Rosettea ruches , choux , coqullle pleatlnga frills or ribbon , aud sashes , narrow , medium and wide , tied In front , a 1'Emplre , at the side en chatelaine , or at the back , will be the rage. A beautiful black moire has a handsome design which gleams with a lovely phos phorescent green. Another In some won derful way has caught a reflection of pink lights. The delicate evening tints are all represented. While moires radiate golden lights , and are brocaded with shaded gold blossoms , pale sky blue patterns and Illumi nated with shimmering silver , and puftest pink and rosy mauve melt Into opalescent tints as the moire catches different glearoi of light. There are also designs with wreaths of flowers and colored medallions in heliotrope and green and other fashion able combinations. IV III IIII lie > olen. Lady Aberdeen Is taking a pleasure trip through British Columbia , accompanied ly Ler husband It is said that Mrs. Hodpron Burnett Is devoted to the weed , and after dinner en joys her clparette from her dainty Jeweled smokette case. Miss Bromley of Utah hts Indented a political cap. for which she has been granted a patent. The crown is a cle\cr 'imitation of the IG-petal daisy , which Is one of the emblems of tie silver party. Queen Elizabeth of Roumanla. better known as "Carmen Sylvia. " has received from the emperor of Austria the decoration of Arts and Sciences. This La the first time this honor has been conferred upon a woman. The princess of Wales will soon receive an Orkney straw-backed chair made from oak couples used In the extension of St. Magnus cath-dral. by Bishop Held , about 1510 , and removed when the roofs were re paired In 1SW. Progressive women cf Holland are sub scribing .for a magnificent present for the queen regent , which will be presented In 1S97 as a testimonial of thtlr appreciation of the manner In which she has carried on the affairs of mate during the minority of the que n Lady Elspeth Campbell , a granddaughter of the duke of Argyle. Is an accomplished performer on the bagpipes , and has a richly toned and specially ornamented set for use In the drawing room. It Is predicted that bagpipes will become a fashionable fad. The Princes * Loulte , marchioness of Lome , upon the occasion of the celebration of her silver wedding a few days ago. received from the First battalion of her regiment , the Argyll and Southern Highlanders , a solid silver model of an Argyll and Southern Highlander. Mme. Martha Besson of the Belle Vue Champion Symphony contest , at Manchester , England , was presented with a testimonial la acknowledgment of the services she haa ' j s al , r ' v Kr t jri'roua i Miiim ajl 'ui. ' rjtc-ucnts In I inamimcnbi Miss Rllitbeth Rank < ) u jutt arrived tn New York from lnlon She l < one of the bet known women journalist * of Great Britain. ? he mil aln do special work for certain rerie a and maimtlnm before her return In January. Mrs. Matilda n. Carte of Chicago Is se en rt me ubcrlptlon for freeing the Woman's temple of Chicago from debt. She has been very successful In RvaMton. the h-ime of MlM France * Wlllard. who wrote the first article supporting tbe temple. Mr * C rt has just secured a pledge o { 125 000 for this purpose from Marshall Field. Dr Alice Pennett Is one of the first women to make a special study of Ineanlty. and wa * the tery first to occupy a practical cbalrman hlp of a great Institution Tor sixteen jears she wa * superintendent of the women's department of the Pennsyltanla State Insane hospital , a jHMltion she has Just resigned In order to devote herself to private practice. Miss Pauline Woodward lit one of the few women who have made a great * uc- of floriculture No : many > ears ago she borrowed sufficient mtney to equip h r- self for this purpose. She owns a p"t ! of land near Pouphkevrnle. where she raises violet * t"celrnlte > ly for a New York ftc-.sL ' Her Income from the tale of these tlowera was $5000 last jear. Mis. D. II Marsh of Oroton. N Y. has been elected president of the First National bank of that city She tias long been ono of the stockholders and directors , and en- th-J confidence and esteem of the busi ness world of Oroton. She Is the fourth , woman who has been recorded as having rvcelved the compliment of an election to the presidency of a bank. Queen Victoria. ba < offered the use of St. James palace to the Ntedlework Guild of Great Britain , for Ita annual exhibition of work The duches * of Albany Is the leading patronais. It t act generally known th.it her majesty , the queen , has o * n receiving ; treatment from l > rof. Pa- Jeostecker of Wiesbaden , and she can now do needlework and read and write with : ease by the aid of some marvelously con structed spectacles. I'OVM'llllITIi:5. . When A girl tells a jouuic wan that she dreamed about him the night before. It Is past time for him to begin to be very care ful. ful.A A clergyman In a Connecticut church publicly rebuked a number of women be- they crowded about a newly married , ? ouplc to hive a glance at the bride. HJa reported from Paris that Jean Char- cot , son of tbe famous physician. Is engaged to be married to Jeanne Hugo , granddaugh ter of Victor Hugo and divorced wife of Leon DaudeL The Roman press announces that the dowry of Princess Helene of Montenegro consists of ao annual Income of 10.000 lire < 124. < X ) . which Is a present from her father , Prlnrn Nicholas. It ts rumored that the Princess Inqeborg. : he second daughter of the crown prince of Denmark Is about to be fcct-othed to the hereditary prince of Wled , a lieutenant In the Third Uhlan Guards , at Potsdam , and a nephew of the queen of Roumanla. The 3 was born on August 2. 1S7S. and the prince on June 27. 1S72. on and Mrs Isaac Selleck celebrated their golden wedding on the ctenlnc of October 11 at their home in Darlen. Conn. The couple recelted the hearty congratula tions of a large number of friends , mostly Immediate relatives with nmny presents. This Is the fifth golden wedding on Mrs. "elleck's fide. Including that of her parents. Both Mr. and Mrs. Selleck are grandchll Iren of Deacon Joseph Mather , an active officer In the war of the revolution The duke of Orleans whose marriage to Archduchess Marie Dorothea Amcllc tooic place In Vienna on , Thursday , conceited an oriclnal Idea in wedding souvenirs He or dered 300 medals to be struck off som in gold and pink enamel and others In silver , which were- presented to his friends at the wedding The medals , besides containing profl-'ts In bas-relief of the bride and bride groom , were ornamented with the blazons of France and of Hapsburg-Austrla-Lorralne. The court of appeals for the northern de partment of Kansas has decided that a. divorce does not bccomo operative until six months after it is granted. The object of this rullLg is presumably to break up tbo practice which has been frequent in that state among divorced persons of stepping out of the court granting tbe separation Into th probate court and contracting new con jugal bonds. Mthough quite young , being little more than 19. Miss Blanche Wilson , daughter of Chaplain David Wilson. U. S. A . retired , has every claim to her title , "an army belle. " The announcement of her approaching mar riage to Mr. Joseph J. Hampton of New- York hsi caused tears to fall that have tarnished many brass buttons , and Innumer able disappointed hearts hive beaten hard beneath the uniform of the service for hen iwect sake. Slair Medicine When the hair begins to fall out and lose Its lustre and beauty by turning gray or faded , what more ciidenic it needed to prci < ; that Its hialtb is affected' and that it needs raeditme' No more. I assure jou , for there is a cause for every syaptora tUat the hair gnes of turuiuc griy or losing its beauty in auy form. For as tlic hiir is a part of tlic human body , u is subject to ailment us nc.ll as any other part , aud therefore should be treated Intelligently. But contrary to this ccrar.ioii-wnfe logic , no greater intuit or worse nbuse ctuld be heaj > cd upon this defenceless mrabcrofour person than the me of hair dye. To color the jxsor sick hair with hair dye and therebv drown its feeble cry for nourishment , Is. In itrlf a sin and a crime ajalnut nature. Shame oa i nrrant humaiity that will not yield to the lar-s of nature and study the nce < l of their owa body. body.Mme. . M Yale's Hair Ionic Is a medicine for curing tick hair It Is the only remedy on record Lnowu to restore tht natural color to grty be r. It u urtslic * the root * and give * circulation to the oil ducts , pcraicntiCK it witli nature * own coloring matter thst Hews through the channel * of the hair when itiiin an healthful state us faithfully as the warm blood doe * through our veins. Mme. Yale's Hair Tonic is the result of a careful - ful analysis of the human hair by Mme Vale , that wonderful trornan cheiniit and tcienliit , tkhoguarautceJ Vale's Hair Tonic to contain pre- cmly the natural coiutitui-it of the hair t own matu-r prepared in a chemical form. U Hops Ihr hair faulng in from twenty-four hours to one week. Cures Uar.ilrulJ" . toitent dry , harsh hair : raalc the hair toll , glo y and fluflt , keep * it in curl , and cures all manner of scalp durmc * f.ud hair allmenlt. producing a Krou Hi ol luxurt * tut hair of it * own rich , natural color , no matte * what thtt may be dlack.bloudeor brown. I'or children and adulu- males or females. Ji jut j > er bottle ; six for Js-oo. JtME. U. VAI.E. Dual7 tad CorapUiion BrwcUllfC T ai io ol U. ut7 , lit aUU bit Ml , CiiUncu.