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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Oct. 4, 1896)
TTTTC OMAITA DAILY IHiJE : Srtf'AY. ' OOTOUKll .1. isnn. 1 t tesrtllfraaillfi wffcxaillff C3 > N < N s ? (5i ( v < S5)ys < ) \ < 5 > ys\ < ! IN THE OF WOMAN. ri , , < & > I I'M , I , AND \VIVrr.ll Mil , I , rMIlt V. llnln iintl lln > HclKii nf 1'nrn null I'VnlluTK. NEW YORK , Oct. 1. The week just onde < baa marked the "ope-nlngs" of several o Now York's Pinartr-st milliners , who. aa usual. Are display Ins their sidles ncnrlj n month later tlian the bis shorn. This display the milliners themselves declare necessary , an new designs are not scttlc ( upon vi hen the general shops begin tbel displays In this wny the choltest secrets of fashion's hat hot arc kept as long a possible fiom the common public eye , an until nil danger of promiscuous copying is past The Horse show , which occurs In November , Is usually the event chosen bj fashionables for the first wearing of winter b cad ROC r As to the styles of the present autumi nnd winter , they nro lesion. The now head Krar U of nil shapes and sizes for all types nnd In a variety of materlali. Theie nto Krcat roninntlc looking chapenux a bords with ttofl clowns of rich mirror velvet caught ( town by Jrt , stuel or Jeweled onia mcnts. other wide brim mini hats with ullfl jam pot crowns , the shape covered f-moothly with velvet , ttrid trimming , plica of dune Ins fealhirs nnd misty pii.vllso aigrettes llltlc Krcnrh toques anil vast Klifslaii tur- burs , round "bolero' hale for frrsh youiiK fares and oilier small round hats with the brKiu < ufllcd like a How or. A V'lllOT niUM. Th" i tidied l lm. perhaps , Irf the newest tliliu ; with the tiinall hats und Is murl affected bv Vlrot. Out of n viirietj of importei miidcls fiom the atelleis of this well knovvi nrtlst 'hero were two.doslgns that Bpeme < to hntr becoming qualities. but only two no more. Ono sat well bacl : on the heai with the short sides fitting close to the temples totuo | fashion The milled fron i pared upnnrd. but wan waved with a loose petal uiipvenness whli'h brought In stron ? cou'rast a rlrh facing of deep purple velvet with the white felt of the hat shape. Other trimming consisted of n black bin wl'h ' a. wblto bill and n paradise tall nt ono Bide of the crown , and a square jet orna incut at ( lie other. The second rufllcd brlu r.hapo whl.-h was entirely of emerald greet velvet lad the edge waved all round a low puff crown. A light sheathing of white Bill muslin and a panache of block Prince o " \Vfllcs feathers at the left front ornamcntei this model , which la here pictured. The rest of the milled hats looked as If M. Vlrot worn jiibt to Ing his hand to sec what lit , could do. \ J The fashion of wearing the large hats KOIl PROMENADES. ( ow over the forehead , until they sccra ready to tumble off , milliners say is going out , though theio arc some widely-trimmed shaped turned up at the back that will need to bo adjusted in pretty much the old way. Ihit other laigc hats arc iimnlng to n sllghl lifting of the left brim , which gives them a cocky side tilt when posed ; and even when not turned up there Is a tendency to nines the trimming of the back more toward the left than evenly In tbo middle , as formerly. Mast of the small round hats , and espe cially these on the ruflled order , will be wom squarely on the head or else a little back , to show an elaborate arrangement ol the hair In front , lint this arrangement will bo the despair of women with high fore- beads and stialght hair ; a pompadour with idiort , soft curls escaping at tlu > temples la tbo proper caper , and this style , though very charming IH unfortunately becoming only to low foreheads and crisp , wavv locks SO.MI : HAHMCQUIN EFFECTS. No ono period of history Is represented In the now fashions. The best of many years lias been stolen from old books ifhd the re- cult Is u happy melange of many times that lias ail up-to-dateness all Its own. Several of the Louis have donated their titles to both largo and small hats , and from their \ \ WALKING HATS. royal days have copied rich tlnsul em broideries to servo as trimmings , Some times the cmbrolcleiiet will appear in sv- n cral pieces on a liat , or there Ml ) bo a o round rolled brim covered entirely with an IB open dt'ilgn ; or perhaps a itllt Milcock veU vet crown will be bunded higher with a single precious piece , a high tuft of bobbing feathers at the left side forming tbo other trimming. Among thu Lou I a' XIII collection of small hats there are some ruflled Affairs that de pend entirely for effect on strong contrasts In color , puo mail model of velvet was half In ono tint , half In another ; one side green , on ) bluetho ; whole thing dented and r pinched In and out till It looked like a pretty puldlng that had gone wrong In the cooking Plain felt hats abound , hut colored ones of camel's hair felt , cohered with long black hair , nrc among the newer novelties , and there are some largo hats with soft velvet crowns and brims woven of chenille and silk braid tint ate voiy handsome , lllack velvet and ustrlch feathers trim these superbly , six or seven big feathers being fastened at ono side , or elro catching up the brim at the back and nodding toward tbo face. On many of the hats , and especially the Kusslnti turbans , bits of fur , bends and sable tails , and tabs of rich yellow lace arc u .oel as last winter , with the Fame fine ef fect. The big square walking bats worn In the spring me vcrn ngaln In colored and black felts , In dusky purples , blues , grcona , nnd browns. These are trimmed effectively | I FOR IJOTH DAY AND EVENING TOILETS. with curved plumes of greenish-black cock's fenthors , with velvet , vvIngs , birds and the novelty paradise nlgretles that curl up In soft rings nt the ends. Gentle creatures of all the fcnthcrcd tribes have died for the sake of the winter uoinan. from the tiniest humming bird tea a rcil-hciidcd duck the Innocents abound on the new bcndgcar , lavishing the c > o with magnlflcont gleams of color , or tearing the heart v. 1th some graceful arrangement of slender wings thai looks as If flight were Etlll possible. Flowers aie alone used under the brim of Inigo hats and chiefly at the back , so that the hat Bcems to fit down over the hair. The Russian turbans , which are very large , imuul nnd come almost down to the cars , have sometimes ciush roses of silk or vcl- I vet with the sable tails and lace at the out- i side. I RUSSIAN VIOLKTS. In thcao large shapes there aie some tur bans entirely of fur , sometimes with a. flap at ono side caught up with a vast bunch of violets and tabs of lace Violets , bv the way , nre ns much In vogue as ever though the Russian brand , not the Parma ones this I time and 11 may bo useful to know that , they combine more charmingly than any other blossom with lace and fur. Alaska and Russian sables arc the skins used for the all fur hats. Apropos of all this Russian mention In our new modra , thu coronation of the czar j las bi ought It about. Fashion , It seems , I docs not move in cycles , but Is a poor vacillating thing that depends for sugscs- lon on some public race event ; whether t be the crowning ot some far oft king , the visit of a fnreisn dignitary to Paris or only the opening of a novel American ' circus. . I The visit of Iluffalo Hill's Wild West i show to Paris hail a strong Influence on ( lat fashions. I The winter following many of the largo j chapcaux took to wide rolling brims and i a rollicking side tilt on the head , and wire ; dubbed "Buffalo" or "Annie Oakley. " A , visit to the bhali of Pcisla the tame > ear suggested embroideries and soft eastern colors to the dressmakers ; and If the storus about the threatened peacock feathers and deep yellows are to be believed the ia\t thing wo know his excellency , LI Hung Clian , will have had a Chinese finger in our fashion pie. KURS AND SILKS. Experience , of coun > o , can scarcely be the least part of these new Russian hiig tlons. Kurs will be more worn than ever , nnd laces and embroideries are already pat terning after those used on the vestments of the Greek church , and which would be impossible In cheap , designs. Then the new silks ere of an almost royal tcxtuie , heavy with gold tin cads In some Instances , splendid velvets home of thu new o * i are ? 10 to the jaid nrp to bo turned c to the mercy of the dressmakers and made Into entire gowns , Altogether , if ono may dare to f > pcak the truth , a dark winter Is looming up for small purhcs. EVENING BONNETS. To return to headgear , bonnets are rare. A few arc Been , however , and one- smart little model with a coronet brim Is said to have been copied from the shape of the Jeweled headdress worn by women. These nro tilmmed simply and tic straight under the chin with narrow black velvet strings or othcis of moire ribbon , which Is again In fashionable favor. Wide strings of white molro edged with black velvet , or perhaps made of white or black silk muslin aie some times scon on large plctumqiia velvet hats , tylug under the chin or nt the left ear. A few other new Ideas In the millinery Ino are aa follows : Dluck la more often employed for trim ming than color , black velvet and feathers in tinted felts ; though In him of one-color elt may have- soft velvet crowns relieving Bth < rs of black velvet. lllack nud white. | j clso an elegant rom- ilimtlon mucb In f.-uor , white gaurcs edged with black appearing on felt hats and while noire slll.s relieving otherj of black , velvet. In the trimming velvets , dahlia purple , it'ctroot red ( which tinges on magenta ) , Japancsti pink are some of the new colors. Jade la also used for the heads of eomo of the hat pins. _ _ NINA PITCH. IX .MY ! . \V > K T'l M1II1CH. llfilMlfiidN n f llniNM nml I'mifr- Kvcry well-regulated bedroom which has nero than ono occupant has two single icds nowadays. They are fitted up In what s called the Italian style. Thu brass back , \hlch Is draped , la In ono piece , and has tbo regulation movable arms , on which the curtains are hung. Thu high foot-piece of each bedstead Is separate , save for a still ilgher arch made of ornamented brass , \hlrh connects the two draperies and Is ather more , elaborate , The full back Is till used , but over It are arranged deep estoons and long drooping ends , bordered vltli narrow fringe. The sentimental damsel may now sleep vlth her head upon "his" letters , for the attst health fad Is the paper pillow. The iaper la torn Into very small pieces and hen put Into a pillow t.ack of drilling or Ight ticking. The pillows are very cooling hot weather , and urn said to be superior feather ones , Newspapers are not used , they have a disagreeable odor of printers' nk , but brown or white paper and old i ettcra and envelopes arc the best. The : finer the paper Is lut or torn the lighter It nakes thu pillow. If a piece of camphor gum Is placed In he drawer where are kept dresa waists hat are trimmed with steel It will prevent ho bteel from tarnishing , If you live In a mosquito Infested spot cm may be Interested to know that a drop I two of pennyrovul In the bedtime bath'fi will keep tbo plague * off. A saucer of oil 1 \v I ' of pennyroyal left standing In the bed room will help to banish them. Powdered borax sprinkled around the spots where roaches or water bugs abound j or a dose of boiling hot water for them to swim In , or , better still , a dinner of mo- Iasse s and hellebore , will furnish occasion for crape on the door of many overbur dened kitchens. ci.iri' mvii.iiits : A utsv iT.oi'i.i : . The l'iitili Women \re * Mtrriillj HIII- prcKii-H of Tlii-lr II < mit , "Tho cliff | > cople are a busy folk , " writes llamlln Gcrland In the October Ladles' Horns Journal , In an article describing the homes , homo-life and customs of the Cliff dwellers of the southwest "The Most Mysterious People In America " as be designates them. "The women grind meal , and weave blankets and baskets , and make very Interesting and often beautiful pottery. The old men make moccasins very deftly , while the younger _ men go down from the cliff to the fields to ' tend tbo growing crop , to watch the strug gling corn as It battles against drifting hot ! sand and iignlnat sudden floods such are the extremities of their climate. Each morning while 1 was In Hauo I heard the men at early dawn go singing down the steep trail down Into , the purple plain. Their quavering songs I floated up to mo with a strange beauty. I Each morning , while It was still dark , the women woke me by entering the room wheiu I lay , to grind corn , and each night I went to sleep to the regular rh > thm of the meallng- stonu timed to the mjstlcal icllglous chant of the tolling women. "Let It Lo said that there Is no woman slavery among these people any more than nmcng the Navajcs. The women are chief property i holders. The house Is generally the woman's , nnd descent h through her and not through the father. The men aie seldom bcvv-rw in manner , and in Accma and \Valpl , as i well cs In Lasuna and Zunl , I saw the men i taking caic of the babies , and doing it with great tenderness and smiling patience. ' I saw no evidence of any severity except In case < of the old women. They seemed to be the I drudges of the household In Walpi and In Acoma , carrvlng wood end bottles of water up i the steep Hull , bent , withered , morose ] and t complaining. Tl.ey alone of all these ! people ] stcmccl saturnine "Tho Pueblo-Indian women are often very [ pretty I as girls and some of them make i ' stately > oung mothers. They work generally - orally in groups of three or four , cooking , whitewashing ' , weaving or painting pottery. They seem to have a good deal to chatter about , and their smiling faces cro very agreeable. They have most excellent white teeth. t Their ceremonial dress Is very pic turesque ' , especially the costume of the Acoma and Islota , girls. All burdens are carried ' by the women of Acoma , Islcta and Laguna ' upon the bead , and they liavj ; , In Argument , for It Is one of the mndt striking monuments In existence , to trie Vduck per severance , skill and llfty capabilities of the American woman. * The world , as It goes , ha 'never ' heard very much of Riverside hosjfltnl. There have been no Incredible tflittrrfih of plastic surgery there to make newspaper stories. The women , who wield the Knife there have contributed no magazine articles to the startling literature of Roentgen rays. The most singular thing about Riverside 'hospital Is that It exists at all , and , next , that It was founded. Is owned Uni ) conducted by a woman. Its corps of doctors , except ing the three counseling physicians * , arc women , and to swiftly and BO substantially have they wrought upon the very meaner foundations , that , In the four jC.irs which have elapsed since the hospital wns started , It has twice been found necessary to remove to larger quarters and Increase the accom modations. This very worthy hospital owes Its exist- ftica to the fact that Its founders clever women , doctors both could not obtain otherwise In the great city of Buffalo the hospital training they wanted. It was a woman's rights proposition. And besides wanting a place where they tould get prac tice In advanced surgery , both these women were convinced that Buffalo needed a woman's hospital anyway. They felt sure that the agonies of modesty endured by many sensitive women , whose r.llmcnts force them to seek hospital treatment , woub ! bo ollavcd , done away with If they could TOR PULL DRESS WEAR. coiibequcnce , a magnificent carriage * , even late In life. The old women of Walpl , on the contiary , arc bent and donn-looklng. They carry their burdens on their backs slung In a blanket The girls of Isleta wear a light cloth over their holds Spanish fashion , end manage It with fine grace and co mi-try. The overjday drc > > s of tbo Hop ! women consists of a sort of kilt , which Is wrapped mound the hips and fastened with a belt ( a modification of thu blanket or wolf-skin ) ; above this a sort of sleeveless chemise partly covcis the bosom. Their hair Is gracefully tended , hut Is worn in an un graceful inodo by some of the women. The women of llano cut the hair In fiont Bquaro across about to the line of the lips , while the back hair IB gathered Into a sort of billet. The front hair hangs down over llio faces , often concealing ono eye. The unmarried women of U'alpl wear their hair In a strungo way They eoll It Into two big disks Just above their cars 'The Intent - te-nt being to symboll/o their youth and promlso by Imitating the squash ( lower. The matrons correspondingly drees their hair to symbolize the ripened squash. " Some erf the mulilens were wonderfully Japanese In arrearauce. Slit * MiiiuiKi'M ii HiiNinl | | | u m | I'crrnrniH MllllClllt OlHTIltlflllH. A woman wielding a surgeon's knife Is not cheerful thing tq contemplate. It Is dim- ult not to think that she might better bo lolnil " ' " "tatt'ng. Hut there arc women surgeons , and good ants , and there will bo more. In all the world , probably , there la not mother such Institution aa the Riverside jospltal at Buffalo. It U an establishment which ought to furnish the advocates of woman suffrage with material for a jcar of unrelenting bo biiro of going where they need not hi cared for or operated upon by men. Dr. Lillian Craig Randall and Dr. Mary T. Green , both practicing physicians In Buffalo , rcatoneil that by founding a wo man's hospital , no matter how small , the } would confer a boon on modest woman hood and at the same time obtain for themselves unlimited experience In gyne cological surgery. Dr. Randall Is not a new woman. She did not attempt to convince people with a rush that women could do hospital work as well as men. She waited for the public to find that out. Soon after the removal to Niagara street Dr. Green w Ithdrew' from the hospital and left the city. Up to that time- only two women had been treated at the hospital. The other patients had been men. , , The next useful addition to tie ) hospital's equipment was a tralrlng uchool for nurses , nnd now four pupils arc studjjng In the cosv wards thetc. Their practical cxner'- ' cnc.e at the hospital Is supplemented by at tendance at the clinics of the Buffalo Gen eral hospital. The operating room Is a dainty place , con- sldeinbly unlike the rooms usually found In a hospital. Or. Randall , will ) womanly aversion to all that 1s rough , has the great est care taken In this room , Possibly her presence at the operation makes the men moro gentle , and for that icason Ihc opera- tlbns aie moro successful. ' 1 ( Dr. Randall believes that surroundings are paramount.- She dtclaies that well nl h as many hospital surgery cases have resulted fatally fiom environment and lack of attention and delicacy as from the knife , anaesthetics and disease combined. She makes it a point that all the grow some de tails of surgical work shall be kept out of the patient's view. The operating room does not suggest a shambles or even a clinic. It Is Jiut a big , wholesome , sunlit room where Dr. Randall and her assistants work , deitl.v. noiselessly , cheerfully. But when It comes time to cut cut to the bone , with quick , strong , ualllnchlng strokes to wield the cruel-looking aaw/s-n-no / matter what step In the stern vvurlc jotosurgery It be. Dr. Lillian Craig RanJall does It with the iiteady nerve and the Jmpor urbablllty of a grizzled old army bur tjf > p.)4 No man surgeon ever held a1 sralpel In n steadier or more skillful hand , i She hurts to heal. She Is doing something for her race , something for li j sex * something for the sclcnco In the service oCrwhle.li she has enlisted , and which ahe.dignifies and beautifies In the practice ofIt. . , i She's very much "tho kind of i. woman to have , " and her hospital Is ttbo1 hospital of the future. M KiiNiuilii I'liliKlluu . \Kiilii' S/urtli-H / tlio " ' ' ' ' .Sfll-lltUlH. Pretty nearly the wholu of tjlfg scientific world has beard of Eusaplo. Pqladino by this time. To these interested in the phe nomena of psychology the fat , dumpy Ital ian peasant woman has been a veritable gold mine of surprises. Unbelievers In the supernatural , relates tbo Washington Post , would almost be willing to ichango their minds could they ECO her perform the mar vellous doings which within the past year have convulsed cold , clear-headed men of I science in all the great centers of Europe , She has been studied and analysed over and over , but not one of tticso men of bruins has been able to logically account for her mjsterlous powers , If she had lived 100 years ago ube would probably have been condemned to the Btake aa a witch. As It Is Bho Is the greatest living puzzle before the eyes of the world today. Her strange powers aru easily described , but no explanation of their source can bo offered. She possesses some peculiar foreo in her body whk.i Is potent enough to nioyo weighty objects , standing at BOUIO distance from her , It is described as a specks of electrical current , emanating from her body nnd tdklng hold of the dc- 61 red object , and moving the latter about as t > bc wills. Her force Is not confined to i a single object at the same time. hc can move a dozen thlncs from different parts i of a large room , causing them to fly through the air at the game Instant. This has Just I I been demonstrated , and It adds a new chap- 1 ter to the already long list which the sci entists are trying to puzzle out. I Some time rgo Eusapla was taken to England and she gave a number of exhibi tions In the presence of a number of KIIK- llsh , French nnd German scientists , who adopted a variety of precaution to detect her In any fraud No fraud was discov ered , but her doings were so remarkable and liiHiatiir.il that some of the scientists , after vainly attempting to trace the eauscs of the phenomena , decided that there must have been fraud , and so stami cd her as A vulgar trickster. But these accusations were so groundless of fact that llttlo At tention was paid to them , and the fame of the Italian woman today Is greater thane oer. . In Paris she has Just given an evamplc of her powers , which Is legarded as more remarkable tlmi any of the others , be cause It shown the surprising energy of the force she c.\crtn. Heretofore she has only attempted to move small things , like cMisIng a letter weighing machine to move up and down , and thumilng the Kejs of a piano placed at some distance from her. Ill this last exhibition there wore a num ber of scientific men present , and the- } adopted many precautions against thu ex ercise of fratid or the Introduction of any outside agency. The wife of one of the scientists had dressed the peasant woman In a tight-fitting gymnasium suit to guard against the possibility of her using any concealed mechanism In performing her wonders. In the drawing room where the tests \\cie made Eustpla was seated In a light bamboo chair , entirely devoid of tinjthlni ; which would conceal the smallest thing. Tbo peasant woman always falls Into a trance when giving her exhibitions , nnd when she had reached this stage ono of the scientists got down on his knees em the floor and held her legs linn I y In his hands Another ) caught hold of her hands and held them In a tight grip , while another stood Immediately at the back of the chair to wntch for any suspicious movement A fourth stood right In front of her for the same purpose , nnd others wcro grouped around , eager to catch her In any decep tion. tion.Then Then the excitement began. The trancelike - like sleep deepened. The flrst thing to feel the force of the woman WHS a. heavy aim chair , placed In a recess of the window. It began to move about In spasmodic Jumps , anil then n toy plann , standing near , be gan to play. The heavy window cut tain swelled out Into the middle of the room am ! twined Itself nbout the head of one of the watchers. The leg of n distant table pounded three times on the floor , and the heavy armchair moved up and down. One of the watchers felt pomethlnK like n sharr blow In tbo small of his back , nnd another a bald-headed man , crltd out thnt some thing had hit him on the top of the heart llko theflv < > fingers of a hand. Another wns pinched on the right arm. All thh time the toy piano was clattetlng away , the table lep wns pounding on the floor , nnd the arm chair wns moving up and down. The sleep of the woman seemed to grow deeper , and the noise greater. Then came the strangest part of the test The window curtains broke loose from the pole- and came qn n table near Eusapla. Then the toy piano sailed through the- air , strik ing cne of the watchers on the bend and landing near the curtains. While the piano was still In the nlr Kusapla got up from the chair , nnd It started on a flight through the air , first backward and upward , and eventu ally landing In the lap of a man who had bc-en sitting rlpht In front of her. This Is regarded as the most remarkable of the many examples which the woman has given of her powers. Her history , aside from the strange force she possesses , Is simply told. She was bom in Naples fort- iino jcars ago , of poor parents. When & years olif her father was killed by brigands and this tragedy had n strange ellect upon her nerves , V.htch , in a measure , may ac count for her powers. She became hjst'ci leal and wns often the victim of lullueina tlons , seeing strange , faces staring at her from the walls nnd ceilings. Then she be gan to fall Into trances and spiritualists who heard of her Induced her to t.ike part In seances when she was but 13 years of age. Pbe tired of this after awhile , but when 22 years old she again came under the Influence of a spiritualist. Now she has little or nothing to do with spliltuallsm. Her strange poweis ( list at tracted attention about seven jears ago and since then she has been In every largo cltj of Europe at the Invitation of scicntlstp , who have found In her a most Interesting study. IiIkiMifNKCN oil Ivors , I'orci-liitn or Ciiiivnri lu Di'llciiff Colorx. Photography Is one of the professions neither bicycles nor the hard times has seriously Interfered with The icabon is difllcult enough to explain bccujso the photographer who flourishes is the one most exacting , first In the field with expensive novelties and most ex.ilteil In his prices. 'Ihc little man on thu sldo htreet who will flx you up In cabinet cards for some thing moderate a dozen can't earn his salt any longer , whllo the "portrait artist" on the avenue , who is charging $50 apiece foi hl3 tableaux photoginphs , Is growing gray finni overwork. When completed , his tone pcrtralts are sold all the way from $5 to $ GD apleco and few enough of them now go out of the studios uncolorcd. Per ? 2"i ! ho will exact more sittings while a skillful water- colorlst turns the phctograph by a few strokes of his brush Into an aquarelle charming to see. Ho first sketches In a background for the figure and then merely suggests color In the dress , hair and skin. Now it la alwajs at thu pleasure of the sitter whether sbo will bo photographed on Ivory , porcelain or parchment. All these surfaces , after the photograph Is rendered on them , are susceptible of exquisite brush treatment. On ivory and parchment the cost Is $ ( ! 0 for the first and ? 20 for the second to have them photographed ver > small and then tinted for miniature frames To such a paint of cxcnllcneo bus the tlntlnga been brought that ] a colored parch ment photograph , properly mounted In a circular gold rim , under glass , will easily para , In a crowd of experts , for a miniature on Ivory of the very be-st workmanship However , your ambitious can no longer soar boom ! the attalnneuts of our modern photographer , far If neither parchment miniature , Ivory i.qimro. Ilor aquarelle can satisfy you he will piovldo a bust , or full length , pastel portrait an short order. His method Is to photograph your face and figure on canvas by a process known c.i solar printing , and then , after one bitting , his cclorlst sketches In the proper tinting , works up the background and produces In the end a portrait as faithful In likeness and as lovely In coloring ou any woman could wish , "It is natural enough on the whole that women should prefer their plcturca tinted , " remnrktd the photographer , ns ho ( HsplajeJ some of hla wares. "It enhanced beauty doubly and by careful touches I can so lighten up the plainest face that without flattering or falsifying the effect will be a admirable1. Parchment miniatures and water color tinting arc the two best and most popular processes and < thougb six women out of ten will have their photo- grapka colored , the other four arc sureto ask for sittings In tableaux or character. "That U purely it New York fancy Pu-'ly girl friends eomo to me to bo pictured to gether , not In Iho costume , but in tbo exact attitude of "fho I adlea Waldergrave , ' young girls , with their fiancee artdoiio In tbo pose Of Mlllals , while the prettiest family groupea I have made are modeled on Tadema's 'Reading Homer. ' Thla is the very mcxst costly photograph > et used , for though the Hitters do not attempt costume , am obliged to supply most expensive back grounds , furniture , hugo plates and make numberless exposures to achieve a perfect result. Besides } keep on hand hero a hugo bock of photogiaphs of famous paint ings and you can make your choice , trust the picturing to mo and pay (70 for every mounted proof In photogravure finish. " to I'llNllloil AOH | , Among stylish garments In various Im of porting lioui.es are box coats of very llght- eolored cloth , llne.il wltb white or old-roue Btttlll , New EnglUU eergo and wide diagonal of costumes bate tucked alcove-puffs and tucked I bodices. > ouo of the tucks ed cd i with very fine cold bralJ The prettiest lists show a cemblnntlnn of black ] and white. White felts are landed , with \ black cock feathers , or nro lined with block i and trimmed with unite gardenias nnd blnck quills. Many of the natty Jackets tn black or daik colors nre < lined with plalded taffeta silk cither In gay clou pallet ns or In paler shades of cream and violet , fawn and old rose , gr.-n nnd blown , etc. The reps of the new winter velours are much softer nnd richer surfaced than form I erly ; , but their chief distinguished feature ' Is found In the voi > beautiful combination of colors effected In the weaving. r ney belt slides and Jeweled hair , neck nnd bodice-pins me In high vogue , and a rich nnd nrtlstlc , but wonderful medley of garnitures nnd ornaments are also noticed on hati , ten gowns nnd French reception dresses. Shades of > cllow seen In the Jonquil and nnsturtlum are much used In vests , lint plastrons nnd collars of black gowns for the season. Often a small square joke of } el low vehet Is ovcilnld with Jetted net , eii stuped with lines of ecru Insertion. ( .liangc-able effects silll appear among silks , velvets satins silk and wool mix tures , etc , notwithstanding their long limit of favoritism. Couled mirfaces nlso appear among very many of the fall novelties these cfiioc.ts extoiidlviK even to rlbbiij velvets. Per the moment Paris nnd London mil liners are snaking round hats of lustrous corded silk or talTota slilrred In rows about an Inch apart on the brim , with conical velvet crowns suiiounded with flowers , full plumes and autumn lloucis in shaded velvet. Embroidered leather bands , str.ip' , gir dles , decorated kid trimmings and cloth appliques In novel designs , brilliant and colored beads nnd spangles , altvery popu lar decorations this season for the fawn green and brown corduroy , and all wool lopped costumes hi ought out for autumn w ear. There Is every Indication that fine quali ties of French nnd German broadcloth and Venetian and ladle * . ' ciolh will bo In great nso during the fall and winter for cnllie costume1 ! , princess dresses , redltiRotrs , capes .nut Jackets. The finish of those textiles this > evr Is thu finest that has over been pioiluccil. The shoit Jacket effects still continue to appear , with the much-llUcd variation of making them double-Incastcd nil or n portion tion of the way down. Many of these Jackets are p.tit of the waist , being nt tachcd to It pcimanentl ) , nnd nro most often of wool over sill ; with sometimes a plastron placed at tla throat coveted with velvet Rococo Jewelry , Gieek Intaglios. Bulgarian silver ormments. Norwegian silver buckles. Louis XIV and .XV miniatures , fiamcd In gold set with diamonds or pearls , Roman shoulder clasps , and exquisitely wrought PranceRcan girdles and chati lalnop are In congruously worn with elegant evening toilets of any and every dt scrliHion Very beautiful wedding toilets In Louis XIV style arf made of heavy white moire brocaded with white sntin flowers nnd foli age. The irownd ate trimmed with Honlton or point de Vcnlho lace and bands of verj elegant pearl paiscme-nterle , with special pieces of the same tiluimlng shaped to form n girdle , epaulettes , and to cover the flaring Volols collar. The skirt model cut with seven goics gains rather than loses In favor In the fashionable world. Just now it is A leading favoil'o Its populaiity is largely due to the fact that It Is a modoiate Btylc. neither too full of weighty ripples nor too scant of breadths , amj also that In Its gcncial contour and effect foct It piovcs nllko beromliiK to utout as to slender figures , to women tall or short , and Is an excellent model for either light or heavy materials. The popular finish given to mutton leg and other sleeves close tn the arm fiom the elbow down is very pictty , and has the ad vantage also of malting the hand look smaller. The sleeve Is so cut that at the edie of the wilstt \ expands like the calyx of a flower. 'Ihls expanded part Is finished In many wnjs. It Is usually of velvet and is lined with a pictty contrasting color In silk filled In with Ince , cut In tabs or points , braided , or piped with silk or satin Miss Leollne Hartly who enjoyed the dls Unction of being the only ladj who read n paper at the recent convention of the Na tional Federation of Shorthand Writers , chose for he'i Mibject ' "Hie Place of Women In the Shorthand Ranks , " Her success has been phenomenal. It Is scarcely five years since she commenced the study herself , and she has been so successful that sbo has taught over 1,000 pupils. Princess Maud and Princess Victoria are having bloomers made of crcpon and silk Thej have a lining foundation in four sec tions and a deep round joke of silk , which Is re-draped with finely tucked chiffon. The blouses are made on a > oKt > , being drawn In nt the wnlst , whcie the lining Is secured , forming a puff below the' waist. The upright collar Is draped with \\hlto chiffon Miss Bclva Lockwocd and Miss PiancLs Clinham Trench were appointed to icprcsont the ' United States at the International Con- gros of Charities and the Congress for the Protection of Children , both of which con vened during the past week at Gene\- . Thc&o two women will also attend thu In tel notional Peace Congress to bo held at Budapest nnd the International Women's Congress In bo hold at Berlin. Miss Edith Rammage , who a few days ago nt Richmond was married with great , pomp and ceremonv to Mr Pranclsco do Paula Oisorlo , was the original of Sir John Millalsa fcnious portialt , entitled "Cherry Ripe. " She was then a joung girl In fancy ball costume , mid hundreds of tourists from different parts of the world who have at various times admired " " "Cherry Ripe" arc wishing the lady future joy , prosperity ana happiness. Anna Gould , Countess do Castcllane. has won the name of being the best dressed woman In Paris. But not to her good com mon sense does she owe her victory The count , her hiinband , hza put his taste to work , and us n result , the countess has outdone the clevci Trench Castellano su perintends her toilet down to the mlnuto details of the manicure's art , and has the satisfaction of possessing as his wlfo a woman of American "go , " as well aa "madam's" unapproachable Htyle. IVmlnlnt- VII > N. Fancy velvets are In great use with high- class modistes nml ladles' tailors , The conical crown continues to appear on Iho newest round luts of the reason. Nld d'Abellle , or beehive , effects nro shown i.iione now French goods , In all wool , In lilac ) , and colors. Miss Helen Comport/ has made the ascent of Mount Brewer , and found In H bottle the only authentic record of the ascent of Piof , In ewer , made In Ib64 , Princess Charlotte , the hereditary princess of Scxc-.Melnlngen , IIUB received the ap polntmcut from the Gorman impeior of hon- oraiy chief of the Eleventh Sllcblan grena JIUs Miry I'roctor delivered a scries of astionomlcal lectures during her recent trip to Norway , which wcro very Instructive to the young ladle's from various American colleges , who accompanied Ihu parly. Mmo. Nordlca has been recruiting at I. cerne , Switzerland. She will soon slug at the Worcester festival In Massachusetts , and few days ago accepted an Invitation to slim at Iho Handel festival at the Crystal palace next Juno The duchess of Rnthland has started a movement in England by which numerous ladles aio forming circulating libraries , the Idea being to distribute books among the poor and to transform weary winter evon- ing.1 Into happy and profitable hours. The queen of Greece Is president of an association of women whoso object Is to reform prisoners. 'Iho ladles regularly visit and seek to uplift all women , inmates of Athenian prisons , Auxiliary societies are being organUcd throughout Greece. Rboda Broughlon , who never writes a novel without dogs In It , U the very de voted mistress of a battalion of pugs. Her own dogs she has written Into books again and again , and perhaps no author enjoys her profession so entirely as this clover Eng \ lish woman Queen Wllhclmlna of Holland has a mln- Uturo farm , the produce of wnlch shu gives the poor anl to the hospitals , Her Swiss ihalet is stocked with the accumulated toys twelve ) years or moro , and hero she has learned to "keep bouse" In the most ap proved Dutch style. 1'rlnce-ss Beatrice , as goveinor of the Iclo Wight , is to bo abked to unveil the monument to Tcnnjsoa , which In to bo nit up on a liiti } ledRO of the youthrrn const of the Isle ofVlfiht , and will rve not only us memorial of the poet , hut as n land mark for sailors. Ml&s Ida .Miller 1ms JitJt bren appointed Udv director of the Rnnllsh school of Journalism. The object of the v-luml Is to tiMln women Joutnallsts In nil reiiUlrcmrntt of the profession , n It Is stated that not one In n hundred of those who ajplro jo Journalism Is acquainted with Its elementary rudiments. The ov-qucen of Scrvln recent ! } lost n. mamiltlcent diamond while Mtolllng In her park. It adorned a btncelrt upon her arm. She Immediately mnden vow that If she wns fortunate enough to find It she would Kl\e It * xnluo to the Little Sisters of thn Poor In BHrrltr. . The diamond has just been found on the ci omuls The duchess of Tlfo Is one of the best nuglcrs of any royal lady In Europe. Slnco she has been sojourning for some dajn pust nl Miir Lodge on the UPC. * he hns landcri twentv-four salmon , all of which \\cro taken with the ily. In two hours , the other nfter- nnon she caught tueho line salmon , i-cnllng fniin six to thirteen pounds rcMpcctlve-ly. Since thu llttlo king of Spain completed his tenth > ear he has boon i-et up with a separate rMnblislunent of his own. Ills ma jesty has nlw.i > ! i hnd bis own groom of the > chamliciR , master of the horse , blnck toil nnd rfold stick ; but now every officer of his household will l > e distinctly his own , nnd though he will still reside under the SHIUH roof with his mother nnd sisters , bin establishment will he ordered on dis tinctly different lines. Young as he Is , Al- phonso Xllt fully appreciates the chnilge , for he hns always had n deep sense of hl-j own Importance , nnd It wo ild be hard to count the number of times that be hns claimed the must cherished dollies of hU sisters In these words : "Give them to mo. for I am king. " Tin : OII-TIMIK . Mary Maiks. coloicd. who resides In Brrn- bim ' ' , TCV. wns born In tin * West Indies In 17"ti , nnd Is therefore 1"0 > eais old. Joseph D , Jones , who Is 93 years of age. Is said to bo the oldest voter In Boston. Ho has already registered , and he announces that ho Is going to vote for McKlnloy and llobart * Miss Pciclvnl , the lust survivor of the twelve children of Right Hon. Sponccr IVnivnl , has just attained her ! Ust year , with her faculties unimpaired She wns be tween 0 nnd 7 years uld when her father , then prime minister , was xhnt b ) DelllnK- liain whllo cntcilng the House of Commons , and she * has a clear iccullectlon of the tragic circumstances. Peter Nceb of ShelbyvJIle , I ml. , who cele brated his 100th blitlulay reccntlj , has boon a moderate drinker of whluky all his life , lie Is In perfect health. Is In possession of all his faculties , has never to his IcnowlcdgA been slrk In bed n day , nnd has never had the rheumatism. On hla birthday he related reinltilsccivcis of General Lnfujctto , Daniel Webster , Henry Clay , John C. Calhoun nnd other notables whom he had met. Miss Juliet Belts , who died last Friday at the old Belts homestead In Norwalk , Conn. , In her 94th > enr , wns the daughter of Captain He ? < klah Btvtts of the revolution ary army , who led the forlorn hope In the attack on the British army , which opened the battle of Yorktown. The house In which she was born and died was originally built about liiCO by her ancestor , Thomas Belts , ono of the first settleis of Norwalk , and was partly destrojcd when the British , burned the town , but It was rebuilt , nnd Is now In n good state of preservation. James Knotts. 100 years old. and the old est person In Peoila county , Illinois , dlvl at his home In Hnllock township near Chllll- cotlie. All thioiiKh his life ho dlaplajed the greatest vltalltj and worked actively on his farm until three months ngo , when he began to sink. Three weeks ago he was taken to his bed and fulled rapidly. He- was born at Long Button , Llncoln.shlie , England , April 8 , 1730 , nnd came to Anierlc.t. , Ir 1S41. spending the flist nine months In Canada. In 1S51 bo lomovcd to Illinois and settled at Wyoming , coming to Peoila. county In 1802 where he has lived over since. Nlkolaos Ethcrmlua Theodorlanltls of Berkeley , Cal. , who Is now 7fi years of age , Is still able to make a creditable record as a sprinter. The other day he walked eight , and a quarter miles In sixty-four minutes. Six yeais ngo , when he was 70 years of nge > ho won the championship of Greece In tho- first Olympiad of modem times , on the newly rebuilt stadium at Athens. The inco wns won by ono leanomo , but the 70-yonr- old sprinter challenged the winner , ran a mile with him again and beat him , for which astonishing feat ho was presented with a ciown of laurel. Theodorlanltls first. came to the Tnlted States as a visitor to tho- Woild's fair In 1S93. In his own country he had won much fame OH n model for artists , hh singularly classical features _ rendering him of great vnluo to them. At' the World's fair ho posed for many artists , and delivered an address lu Greek that was afterward translated Into English , and won much applause for him , When the hair begins to full out nnd lose its lustre and beauty by turnmi ; gray or faded , what more evidence 11 needed to provelli.it ilH health Is nfiecled ? and that it needs medicine ? No more , I assure jou , for there is n cause for every cyriptum that Hie hair c'vts ' of liimlm ; gray or lojliirr its be mty in any form. I'nr ns tlic linir is n part of the liiimnn body , it is subject tu ailment rtjvtll i4 < inyu'ier part , and tlicielore should be treated intelligently. Hut contrary tu till * comriuii-sniiiU logic , ne greater Inmilt or worse nbuw eunld be licaped upon this delenttless member of our person tlmn the- use of hnlr ilyc. To IH | ' r the poor Mil : hair uith Jiulr ( lye , and thrriby diov.'ii its feeble cry for iiouriubmciit , I * . In KM If act.i nnd a crime ngniiibt nature. Klmine 0:1 : ignorant humanity ( hat will not yield tu the lav. 3 of nature and study the needs of their ow u body. body.Mme. . M. Yale's Is n tnedkinc fur curlnfr elck hair. It is the only remedy on record known tu restore Ibcj natural iulorturty | hair. It iioiiniht-8 tin roots nnd gives limitation to the oil ducta , pcrmialluK It with nature's ouil coloring matter tliHt < lo\ts Ilirougli the channels uf the hnir when it lu In an healthful elate ns faithfully as the warm bloud does through our vims. .Mine. Vale's Hair Tonic Is Ihc result of a care ful analysis of the human liair by Mine. Yale , that wonderful woman clie-iuiFt and KclintUt , ulioguaraMteij Ynli'b HairTuuic tocontniii prc- cii.ly thcnirtiir.il coiiilituuiltci ( tinhair's own matter preinrnt in n cbiinlial form. It Mops ll'v hair fallinc in from tm ntyfour hours toonc \vcU. Curcb Dandruff ; toftetudry , liarsh hair ; make. * the hair cofl , ( 'lossy nnd llulTj ; l.ecpj it lu curl , and cures nil manner of fccalp dibiasts. 01. d hair ailiiieiitb , prodming n growth of | uxun mil hair of iti > own rich , natiirui color , no matter what that may be black , blonde or brown , I'or cliildrc u and adults - inatik or females. Ji.co per bottle ; eix for { 500. ( t IIMI' . M. VALi : , Uenulr an.l Cnmplcilon Ki.eeUltK. 1 imple of Jleuutr , W otutu Ktritt , CJiiiUtfu !