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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Jan. 5, 1896)
THE OMAHA DAILY BEEt JANUATlY 5 , 1800 , WOMAN'S DOMAIN , A TI 1,1.1 : itnm AL. Hoplinnnitfi Textile * nmlneiiM ) ' Sinurl for Hte.iiltiK ( JowttN , NEW YOIUC , Jan. 2. Though Christmas jln past the glad period for gay people Is Rtlll with us , and , young ( oiks' parties being the order ot the day , evening toilets for In their Irons nro now the things | hat have precedence for discussion. Ma- trials for these arc the same as for gowns nuturcr wearers , the rich brocaded silks \nl \ velvets exccptid , and all the dainty glumes show a simplicity of cut and trim- nlng that speaks well for the taste and Slscrctlon of mammas In these days ot ex travagance and magnificence. Diaphanous textiles are much In favor and lot tlicsa tulle takes the lead as affording ' more youthful possibilities than the gauzes r chiffons. Plain tulles are moro used , cither for the icntlro gown or ai a trimming : to a satin or [ > taffeta foundation , and \\licro ttio whole frock IB made of It a bJtvlldcrlng effect Is gained by having the under slip ot a change able taffeta , a violet with stiver rights , per haps , npplo green with gold , or a delicate Mile that Is pink In the shadows. White over any of these changing tones Is very charming , though the tulle Is often In one of Hie shades of the foundation. TUB PAIR YOUNO WOMKX. In either case , however , the trimming for BUch a gown should be as simple as pos sible , a vtlvct or natln bolt , nnd knots or garlands of small artificial flowers on the bddlco. as the chameleon changes of the under slip arc the points to bo kept before the eye. Then , for very slim maids , who are fond of Kllttcr , there are tulles sprinkled scatter- Ingly all over with tiny gilt or sliver L spangles that make up with fairy-like prettl- ness. Others again are sewn with pointed or /-round pearl drops , or nre embroidered or tied WlL. j colored chenille thread In loops and tufts aml though gowns In these last may have AW belt and bodice trimming ot velvet ribbon In the same ehade , or In a color on white , a pearl embroidered tulle Is most elegant when trimmed only with white satin ribbon. When the gown Is entirely of cpunglcd tulle there IB often a narow belt and a bodlco knot or two of tinsel braid In the gilt or silver of the spangle ; ' . With BUch acostume , , white satin shoes are advised as the best taste , tut. If preferred , gilt or silver shoes are declared In keeping. As to the making up of all this airy love liness , It seems generally admitted that a K OREEN TUJj E OVKIt WHITE. baby bodice and full-gathered skirt is the prettiest diaphanous-gown model for young ladles between 1C and 20. Their elders may aluo wear the same to advantage , " as such n model not only dis guises a too-slight figure , but softens one too plump by Its pretended looseness , and nothing could be more charmingly girlish for slim maids In their teens. MODCL GOWNS. A tulle gown on this order Is shown In the illustration. It Is of pale green over white taffsta ulllt , with a green velvet belt , and the bodice decoration ot white musk roses and sprays of email flowers. The foundation skirt la-in five gores , and over this the tulle ono In lump ; full and caught to the underskirt at the hem by a rose quilling. The bodlco haa the round baby neck now allowed very youns ladles , and the buttons of the short puffed sleeves and finished with a twist of velvet to match the belt. For very Ellght figures the waist could bo entirely girdled with the flowers , but In this case the sash arrangement at the belt Is very pretty. A bandeau of the small flowers , with a musk rose at the left , la worn In the hair , Palo rose tulle with garlands of pink m033-roEcbiils ( would also be a charming combination for this model. For a very pale blonde , light blue with scarlet coral flowers Is modish and becoming , and on pink , blue , gren , or white tulle any deli cate pink flower would bo suitable. Another way to make the skirt Is to have n deep , hem and tucks , and allow It to hang loose from the foundation. If there are sev eral tulle Bklrts , ono over the other , as Is Bomotlmcs the case , the edges of all are left raw and are also not caught to the petti coat. For the bodice , with this , great fly away bows , with edges likewise left raw , nre an airy and becoming finish to the Blioulclcrs. Chiffon skirts , If allowed to hang loose from the foundation , are hemmed or trimmed with a narrow frill edged with , lace. For th ? bodlco of these there are very beau- , fiIADBD TAFFETA SIMC AND AZALIA 1'INIC VBL.VET. tlful gauze embroideries , worked In delicate I'erulau colors with tinsel threads , that are put ou In bands or shaped bretelles , or jacket pieces. Tlievs are not always expensive and when uwil with discretion an effect of cx- troma elegance Is created , VALUABLE SUaQKST10N3. If there U an old Bilk or satin party gown in the young lady's wardrobe , or In her mamma's for that matter , It can be put to good uuj au a lining ta a thin white crepon. llircuEh this any pale color \\lll glow prettily , und hurt over much patched the lining It will never show. On tba boilce , a touch of yellow valen- clennca lace , and taffita rlbbonu to match the cobr ot lining , la Bulllclent gatnlture. In the gown with the square Deck and broad collar arrangement. Is given a graceful Idea for a taffeta illk for a young lady who hau already made her bow to the world. The illk In tula CIDO Is white shaded acrosi the grain with uneven rays of deep azalea-pink. The cellar , belt and , ' band at the iklrt bottom are Of velvet ta the KUQO tone , the Mowers * at the , . . . . . . . . . . - - . . - .n ehctildcia being pink and w lie nzalup , alter nating , The Jewels worn flrc a beetle pin , set closely , in silver , with small brilliant ? , and a tiny watch with a case In pink enamel and pearls. The fan U on empire shape In whlt > Rauze , with medallions set In acd whit ? enamel clicks. These dainty llttlo fans are very much In evidence at present , nnd even the mort In- expenDlvo of them ar chinning. The more tiny they are the more stylish they are con sidered. DEBUTANTE FASHIONS. Young ladles not yet In society are not given to much Jewelry , though with their low party frocks they sometimes wear small en amelled lockets on thin gold chains , close about the throat. A single raw of tiny setd pearls Is also oc casionally seen. Again a long , too thin throal will bo prettily owathcd by one of the tall white tutln stocks , with a big bow al the ntlMINK LINED RVENINQ WHAI'S. back , cultivated by the nsw duchess of Mnrl- boroueh. For the hair there are charming llttlo bandeaux mart ? of white satin ribbon , with a * mall butterfly bow at onu side , that o n bo bought ready made. A new and dainty fashion for the feet Is a very old one rovfeed. This Is to tie the satin ijllppcru on with narrow ribbons , crossing thm over the Ini'tcp , and winding them about slim ankles In the pretty old-world way uir grandmothers loved. Evening wraps for young ladies show a happy dearth of the tlnssled stuffs now only too frequently seen. The capes arc made short and knuo length , and arc In broadcloth , in white or pale tones , or In tinted orbltn silk. If ot silk , tluro may be a collar and lining ot ermine , but quilted silk linings , being much less expensive , are more- frequently seen. Instead of the high collar so long worn , a newer fancy Is to havs a wide , spreading hood , lined with gathered chiffon , that can on occasions be drawn over the head. head.A pretty evening cape recently worn by a young lady of 17 will servo as a good model when expense ID to be considered. This was In light-brown cloth , faced only with a very fluffy quality of eiderdown flannel In pale blue , and with blue chiffon In the hood. NINA FITCH. MAIDS OV till HAT L.AU1CS. StorlcH of Women Who Serve NIMV York'M Xotnlili'M. "A typically well maided woman. Is Mrs. John D. Rockefeller , who , mo matter how simple her costume may be , " raid an ad miring person and capable critic , "bears the Impress of an artist hand upon her , from the crown of her sleek head to the tips of her Irreproachable carriage shoes. Such a rfiaid Is worth her weight In wages and could get It whenever she chose to leave her present employer. " The nearest rival of Mrs. Rockefeller's mold Is Mrs. Crugcr'f femme do chambre. She's a famous French woman , a particu larly capable hair dresser and her chief recommendation to her lady Is the quality most highly esteemed In the smart maid , of understanding her mistress' moods. These Intelligent servants quickly learn to study their employer's nervco and temper. They know when to soothe with sympathy , when to cheer with a bit of flattery or placate with a little well-timed gossip. But don't for a moment think the ladles maids lives arc spent only In pretty trifling ever the mletrcss' toilet and accepting scold ings or careless confidence. Of tne latter they do receive a good deal , but anyone who has visited In smart houses can see that the more wealthy and fashionable the woman they serve , the harder and more trying their work. For example , Mrs. Frederick Van- derbllt's maid. In town or In Newport dur ing thn season , must nuke cri.l unmaU ? com- plcto toilets for her mistress as ofter as five times a day. No less than sixty gowns are con stantly to bo kept In apple-pic order , five or six hours ot sleep out of the twenty-four Is about all the maid catches and she la held accountable for every valuable In her clmrfc ' Mr Cornelius Vanderbllt , on the con- tiary , gives her maid very little trouble. She practically makes her own toilets and the attendant Is n ver allowed In the room till she Is ready to have' her gown hoojtcd in place. The mother of the duchess of Marlborough - borough , unlike her sisters-in-law , keeps two maids and both of them Irish girls that she had specially trained for h r use. and Mrs. I'hcebo Hearst characteristically has chosen for her maid a Swedish girl who speaks five languages. Hut who Is a heroine to her femme dc chambre ? An nrtonlshlngly large number of mlstr.Eses , If one can Judge by the devotion and fidelity of many of these servants. Mr. Drummers Mortimer was never a staunchcr friend than Is the mold f a famously rich New York woman , who Is known among her feminine friends regularly to overstep her allowance. It's h r maid who keeps the hungry dressmakers and milliners at bay. > < uppllcs , loans out of her own savings and utilizes the pawnshops In her employer's be half. If the maids enjoy confidences not many of them tattle It abroad , though there is occasionally the att ndant who keeps her place only because she holds her tongue , and thcro Is yet repeated the famous case of the mistress and maltl who bargained beforehand that the s'rvjnt for a consideration , would put up with the madamo's well "known temper. For yearo the maid patiently doJgoJ flying missiles when at her labors before the mirror and swallowed scoldings as best she might , for when the will WOB read elie came In for a 1 gacy big enough to heal every wound. Now , Mrs. William Astor , the most con siderate and gracious wonvin In the world , Is a genuine heroine with her servants. Only sudden death or equally Implacable matri mony has < ver robbed her of her maids , No tiring woman ever waited up for her after 11 o'clock , nor suffered rebukes for any parting whim , and they tell a pretty story of a country house , lady's nvild , a poor over worked thing , who was detailed to aid this distinguished guest In'dressing for dinner. Awaiting th * lady's arrival In the bed room , sheer exhaustion overcame watchful ness and down among the divan pillows the girl fell asleep. A glance at the pale face way enough for the kindly wom-in , who quietly made herself r.'ady , turned tha gas low , left a consoling tip In the sleeper's hand , went toftly out of the room and It was only by way of the servants' hall that thi Incident ever came to light. I'ATUIOTIO I'LAXS. Iove of Country In the llrnrtx of Amerleiiii Women , The spirit of patriotism Is more popular than ever this season , and especially art the feminine patriotic organizations flour ishing In all their glory. The largest and most powerful of thetv > is the National So ciety of the Daughters of the American Revolution elution , now numbering nearly twelve thousand fair lineal descendants cf the rev olutionary heroes , with chapters In all parts of the union. The New York City chapter , ander the regency of Mrs. Donald McLean , Is the banner chapter. Consequently , Its projects for this aeatpn arc of Interest to ill similar associations and are of ouch a tilgh order that they could be used with iroflt as models In planning a scheme of pro cedure by other patriotic cotcrleu. Tits season's first big affair ot tnU lead- Ing chapter occurs tomorrow , January C , at Sherry's , In the white and gold ball room , when a brilliant assemblage of men and wom ° n will commemorate the anniversary ot Washington's wedding day. The guests ot honor arc to be a score or more of distin guished personages , Including Mrs. Adlal Stevenson , wife of the nation's vice presi dent , , and herself first honorary president ot the National Society of Daughters. The decorations of American flags and trl-colored buntlnc will carry out the spirit of the occasion , and dainty souvenirs In thi form ot the chapter's history printed In little white and silver volumes , tied with the society's emblematic colonial blue and white watered ribbon , will be presented to each visitor. The entertainment continues from 4 until 7 o'clock , the addresses begin ning at t > , when same of the guests ot honor will make a few happy and pertinent remarks , and at their close a collation will be served. The natabls company Is re ceived by the- officers , and the music will bo a pleasant feature. The next thing on the carpet comes a noticeable loan collection of colonial and revolutionary relics , Including family portraits traits , rare miniatures , antique furniture , Jewels , laces , fans , ornaments and valuable historical documents. These are to bo gathered from old homesteads , family ar chives or the rich store ot heirlooms caicfully guarded by the present offspring of famous progenitors , and rumor Is abroad that at the closeof the exhibition , ft goodly number of the precious antiques are to remain to form the nucleus of a permanent New York museum of relics under the auspices of the "Daughters" and other masculine as well as feminine orders. This loan collection Is to occur during Lent , and Will last for about a fortnight. The admission price Is to be 60 cents. The chairman of this exhibit's committee Is Mrs. Gertrude. Van Cortlandt Hamilton , one ot New York's most beauti ful society leaders , and a woman of much Intelligence and executive ability. The third noteworthy undsrtaklng of the New York chapter will be the second course of lectures at Uarnard college , Columbia's feminine annex. Last season the chapter founded a chair of colonial and revolutionary history at Barnard , thus Inaugurating tha greatest educational feat of any patriotic organization of cither sex. This year the lectures on early American history are to be delivered by Charles Dudley Warner , the noted writer of history and fiction. The lectures pay for themselves , as tickets ore sold to the many persons anxious to avail themselves of such a privilege , though the course Is free to chapter members. These doings of the revolutionary society s noticed what a beauty It wm , touched hi hat , nd said , In a dignified * onp < "MiiUme , you've lost forntthlnfc" She looked down , blushed * glanced at he Pt dog , picked up the article si ml said : "Oh , Fldo , you've lost j-our cellar , JTOI naughty dog ! " and oft trotlWi Hldo , resplcn dent In cream elartlc , gold , Jewels and rib ban , and the man was left < Standing It amarement. Silver buckles always have bwn and nro silll more popular than those mn'do of gold and a firm of silversmiths has brought ou tome Interesting designs. The craze for ath letlc sports shows Itself hire 'ns well as clwwhere , and the womaft cyclist raves over a pair of plain , bright silver buckles decorated with a scorcher on h6r wheel In chased work and finished at thi edge- with the bead design. These buckles arc mountci on plain clastic and finished with black fringe Instead of the usual ribbon bow , am they cost I7.SO. For the girl who has not given up her horse tor a wheel there Is a horseshoe buckle with a horse's head In It , and there are ala > yachting , fishing , golf and tennis designs. A garter buckle Is a queer place to wear the picture of some loved one , but there arc women who like to do so , and the manu facturers have catered to their tasteby rraklng a heart-shaped buckle which con- talna a case for a photograph. Some of these open with a secret lock , and the picture Is hidden from sight ; but the picture forms the top ot otlieir. One young woman an nounced as she purchased a pair that sh Intended to put her pet dog's picture I * one and that of her best beau In the other , ant' then looked hurt because everybody within hearing smiled , A wreath of hamUchased roses Is a dainty buckle and shows up well on plain Nile gtcen elastic. Another pretty design comes In solid gold and sliver. The former Is made of red gold , satin finished and Is ornamented with a wreath chased In red and green flowers and leaves. In the center of the wreath Is a diamond and the price Is $70 a pair. The same design Is carried out In French gray silver and Is very modest looking. Cupid preside : ! over many ot the poweut silver buckles , and his llttlo head , with the sauciest of expressions on the face , peeps out from an elaborately carved scroll In the French cray silver. Other scroll der'gns nre studded with gar- netn or turquotra , and many of the plain buckles are Inlaid with designs of foliage or Insects In gilt , and havj a chased edge. Most women do not like to keep up their stockings with clastic bands for the very rca- EOIUI expressed by this girl , and consequently adopt the hose supporter , which Is brought cut In many styles by Jewelers and dry goods men. Those made of silk elastic and flnlshc : with solid gold or sliver pins , buckles am clamps are brought out In the fleur-de-lis heart , clover leaf , and plain round and oblong I designs , and vary In price from $2 to $18. They run as high as $75 when set with Jewels. I These are not carried in stock , as men do not 'tTi buy the supporters , but prefer the TAFFETA AND WRAP OF CHANGEABLE GOWN OF WHITE MUSLIN OVCR BROCADE AND VELVET. leading chapter are nil occurrences that can easily be followed by the sister societies. Distinguished guests can always be found to give eclat to a fins social reunion. In every part of the country must be preserved rare and beautiful relics and heirlooms that only need an Impetus on the pirt of their cwn'.rs to bring them to th& light of day for the benefit of the publ c in general. Kvery locality has , too , Its man or woman with historical proclivities , and local school * If not colleges are always watting to be en riched by a gift of a chair In American his tory , or a course ot lectures on the coun try's early periods. _ VEHY COSTLY GAHTHIIS. of fiolil mill Silver Set Tvllli IreeloiiH Stoned. "I should say wo were selling garter bucklea for the holiday trade , " said one of the man agers of a larso Jewelry store to a New York Sun man. "W * eold 100 pairs last week , and we've sold nearly as many this , and the week Isn't half gone yet. Do the women like the gold or sliver best ? Why , bless my toul , slnco I coma to think of It , It Is a rare thing for a woman to buy a handsome pair of gar- lero. Men do most of th ? buying , and the o'.yles In silver and gold this season are far richer than ever before. The- very latest thing out la quite a queer looking affair , but thtt women rave over It and the men buy. The buckles are set In the middle of big bows of ribbon , an * are enamelled wreaths cf but terflies or flowers on a gold wlrj. The ekU'Uu Is covered with a broid band of shirred rosa tutln rlbboa to match the bow , and from it hangs a frill of handsome ? cream lace. Ths prlca Is $15 a pair. "Jeweled garters are quite the rage , though It is hard : to get a woman to o n that she wears them. Bo that aa It may , the women alwaya step and admire them , and one of the favcrlta designs IB a buckle mad' of plain Roman gold with a crown ect In diamonds In the center The edge Is fllnshcd In raUj.l chased work , and the- patters cout $130 a pair , "One of the most toitly buckles that hau bosn brought out ID known as ths chscker bard , It Is completely covered with dia monds. cut square , and black enamel , and one c : ts J225. A very pretty buckle comes from I'arls , but It muut be admitted that It Is a bit dashing. It ID madr cf crystal , A picture of a racing hcrw handled by a sporty looking man Is blown In from the hick. The crystal Is ml In a horiv ) shoe of diamonds. A Roman gold clasp with a question mark In diamonds In the center attracts much attention. The women say , with a llttlo nervous laugh aj they look at It sparkling In Ita dainty velvet case : " 'It's beautiful , but how migs stlve the ( iup tloi : mark looks , ' "Scrolls are being used quite extensively In gold and silver just now , and the hand- Earnest is hand-carved out of one lump ot solid gold , and contains two diamonds eel In platinum , A simple buckle made after the style of the old-time gold bucklea worn by our grandmothers U studded with pearls and makes an appropriate- gift for a bride , Something new In the way of a heart buckle clamps automatically , like a man's euspender buckle , and thlu docs away with the back of the ordinary garter , which U sometimes clumsy. The hearts arc each set with thrie small diamonds In the shape of a clover leaf , and sell at $4d a pair. " The gold garter buckles are BJ magnificent .hat any girl who owes a pair might show the same presence of mind undr slm'lar clr- cutnstanccD that a famous New York beauty did at Newport a few years back. She was * walking on the beach when the- lost one of icr garters. The buckle was magnificently jeweled and wax mounted on th daintiest of cream-lace-cdged webbing and finished with a chlu bow of ribbon and lace. A man who happened to be walking just bihlnd the adKiW the Barter fall , and when ho buckles mounted on the bands. The support- era can be bought In a great variety of styles , made of cotton , lisle or silk webs , at the lead. Ing dry goods shops , and have nickel fasten ing. ? , the prices varying from 25 cents to $2 , according to style and material. . CHANT AM ) Mnry AmlerMOii < le Xuvnrro I'nyw Them Pretty TrlliuU-H. In all her'letters and writings Mary Ander son d3 Navarro's fondness for the friends cf her early days is clearly shown. In January Ladles' Home Journal the recalls some of thosj who have passed away , notably Booth , Manager Macauley , John T. Ford , and thus records her meeting wjth and estimate o ( General Grant : "It was during my delight ful southern tour ( the first ) that Dr. Grtflln presented me to- General then President Grant , whom he had known In old soldiering days , when the general had captured and Im prisoned him. It was pleasant ta see these enemies In war m friendly In times of peace. Klndllncsj and simplicity were marked traits of the president , while a certain ruggedness cf manner and spiech that was suggestive ot his earlier Ufa gave an additional Interest to all ha said and did. In showing us over the whlta house his pleasure In pointing out various trophies was undisguised and bylsh. While lunching with him , the natural way In which ho brought himself down to th * level of my ycuth and small experlcnca of life with out a touch of that visible condescension so annoying to the young , was charming. " Meet ing him Eome yearo after , and falling to rcc- ognlro him , Mrs. d ? Navarr * records that affr lily speaking to her and announcing himself as General Grant , before she recalled him , he raid jokingly In response to her con- fusjd utterance that he had " > changed : " "Yes , I have grown thinner and paljr ; I am no longer president , you see , and am consequently " ' l'j < 1 quently less banqueted. "It was about this tlinb1 that my friendship with General Hheriilan also be gan , " writes Mro. d ? Navarra.'Ho ; ' was one of the few eminent men I * have1 met whoso Interest In every subject ! od'cdtrrcrsatlon ' was so great that his particular'metier ' could not have be n guessed. He kneyv much about the stage , Slmke : < pcare and tile Urania generally , and was a passionate lover cf the arts , think ing them all worthy of eclual1 regard. As a critiche was good , though'pirhaps ; , too en- thuylastc ! over any cxcsllcnce , however email , If genuine enthusiasm can.be called a fault. Ills manner was brlbk and hearty. Ills per sonality gave the trnprc lpn' of a rugged strength , so much so that his entrance Into a room was like a breath cf tr < f \ , Invlgsratlng air , H ? scorned fear and ! dl,9Couragemcnt of every klnj , and refused to allow any one to give way to either. " ' , i IOWA'S MO.YUMSIi WCMIKN. lliiri'iin of Ilpeliiroelty. Which IN to DliriiNtKiioultilKu lit Low Jliitt-M. The latest Invention of the Iowa woman , says the New York Sun , is a Bureau of Reci procity. U is not one of the good old-fash ioned kind by virtue of which Mrs. Smith borrowed butter of Mrs , Jones via the back door , with the understanding that Mrs. Jonej should borrow coffee or something el to of her the next time. This sort of reciprocity still exists In various out-of-the-way parts'of Iowa and In certain circles of society , but , gener ally speaking , borrowing Isn't what It used to be , even In the Hawkey } state. The new-fangleJ Bureau of Reciprocity haa another name. It Is an adjunct of the Iowa Federation of Women's Club ? , and Its head quarters are at Cedir Raplda. The rec prolty element consists In th ? Interchange of "lec tures , talks , readings and manuscripts , " and judging from the circular Issued by the bu reau , the Iowa women arc not destined to re main In Ignorance of any conceivable mibjccl. Thirteen town * In different part * of ( he state src represented In the burt u , although others may benefit by It. Seventy-five women living In then ? thirteen towns have prepared a total cf 100 "lectures , talks , readings and manu scripts , " which they arc prepared to lend to women's clubs thirsting for Information. These various document * range over every branch of thought , embracing such subjects as "Arabian Caravan Routes" , " "Women In Polities , " "The Beginnings of Aryan Clvlllza- tlon , " and "Shall We Teach Our Daughters Specialties : " The seventy-flv # women arc divided Into half a dozen grpupt. Three of them , who have probably bfcn more abundantly blessed with this world's goods than the others , will visit clubs and read their respective papers fr o of any charge , even paying their own expenses. These thrcs will probably have a busy season , Pcrhips before spring Mrs. Ccrollne II. Gardntr , who Is one of the throe , will know more than she decs now about th' subject of her paper , "Tho Prose and Poetry of Poverty , " She will probably spend all her substance In railroad fares this winter. Next to these three fr"e lectures comes i grcup of stay-at-home ! , who will send thcl manuscripts ) out on demand. Several mem btrs of this group arc from Coon Rapids , am they touch on such subjects as "Women li Politics" ( fifteen minutes ) , "The Klndergartei for Mothers"seven . ( minutes ) , and "Tho Idea Home" ( six mlnut s ) . It wlil be noticed tha In Coon Rapids It takes fifteen minutes to di Justice to a woman In politics , while the Idea home Is polished off In exactly elx minutes. The next group Includes a goodly numbe of women who will lend their manuscripts cr , It sufficiently urg d , will go In person am read their productions. Payment of cxpensei Is considered to bo sufficient urging. Tin next group , somewhat smaller , will not lent their manuscripts , but Mill go and ren them , expenses paid. Next comes a final group of one woman , who will read any oni of a dozen papers , anywhere In the state o Iowa , for the sum of $25. Another will reat a paper on "Tho'Man Who Thinks. " Bu this Is considered to have Involved so mucl research and trouble that It Is held to hi cheap at $25 and expenses. Finally , there t' ' the Treble Clef Concert company , consisting of three women who may be engag d for $4 ( * and expnisei . Hero In New York we are very likely t < give ourselves airs and think that we arc not so wild and woolly as some oth r pcopli are , "the which , no names being mentioned no offense wlll bo took. " But these lowc women seem not only to know all about the camel paths across the desert of Sahara , anO all the II Hs of art and science and literature but they have also perfected a very excellenl method of diffusing their knowledgJ. Iowa used to be the second uiate In the union li : point of education , Massuchus Its will him to look to her laurels or establish a Bureai of Reciprocity. FILM 111 oil Noted. Beaded velvet and printed velvet aie Ir high favor. Small flat pearl buttons arc used as trlnv mlngs en the corsages of cloth gowns. The Louis XV. coat effect Is now employed even when the neck cf the corsage is cul decollate. Military looking cuffs , a la Trilby , are otter ceen upon walking jackets , with big buttons and frogs. Silver pins for fastening boas are among the novel trinkets of the season. A des'.r- able shapa Is the wishbone. Oriental Jewelry is a fad , and rare , qualnl necklaces and clasps arc made to do effective and artistic service on handsome frocks. Full soft ruches cf colored gauze are modish and bscomlng. They nre cut In leaf tashlon on the. edges , and the effect Is ex tremely pretty. Sciew earrings seem once again to be coming Into populailty. The favorite combl- latlon shows turqualsa csnters encircled by diamonds. A touch of brilliant cherry red In vlvet or satin is an accessory that Is very prominent n winter < mllllnery and on fancy waists for jcth day and evening toilets. A prettier decoration for the neck of a frock has a band of fur surmounted by a soft luff cf laoa , the edg ? standing out around the neck like a frame. A new device In a brooch Is a heart from which spring Cupld'a wings. The heart U encrusted with diamonds , and the. , wings arc studded with turquoise. Sliver pen extractors arc a new accessory 'or the writing desk this season , and , al though small , are strong enough to extract the most stubborn pen from Its holder and 111 a long-felt want. The Ideal of the skirt of the shcrt Jacket s that It should stand straight out four or IH-o Inches from ths flgur ? , and In this It Is materially aided In extreme instances by padded hips. The long shoulder seam Is working another onslaught on the citadel of fashion and may yet win an unquestioned victory. It goes with the queer bunchy sleeves In the middle of the upper arm. The latest card cassa and pocketbsoks are itade from a Irather that Is called elephant's ilie. It has rather a rough surface , and Is of a light tan color. They are mounted at .he corners In dull gold , or have a plain gold land around them , headed by a narrow bead- ng. ng.Frlra canlche Is the name given to one of the new fabrics with a rough surface of curled wool. The name canlche Is the name ; lven to French poolles In their native land , and the soft , rough surface Is not unlike the black skins of these creatures. The Nethersolei coiffure , a Parisian fancy , is at the moment very popular among fash ionable young women the fancy of wearing the hair parted down the center and waved over the ears , hiding them wholly from view , and caught up In a soft knot Just above the nape of tha neck. New menu cards come In the form of fruits and vegetables , such as apples , pears , potatoes , cucumbers and lemons. They are colored like the natural fruits , and the menu Is written on the under side. The cards are fastened to a piece of satin ribbon , on which Is painted th ? name of the guest. Some of the newest blouses to wear with handsome black cklrts are mid with ap plique laca designs on black chiffon , or black net delicately cllk embroidered In white more or less elaborately. These new tissues for very elegant waists will probably dc much to dethrone other soft falling textiles which have so long prevailed. The fancy of adorning the neck and shoul ders with all sorts and conditions of fralse * , ruches , collarettes , yokes and historically named contrivances cf lace , mousselalne dc sole , fur , velvet , and gimp , has developed possibilities never dreamed ot when the mod- ttt little folded neck-band first mada Its ap pearance , and which has now evolved Into a : ontplcuous dainty of the toilet , a complete Inscription of whltfh would prove a failure. Twc-button cutaway coats of rough cheviot nado with a deeply notched collar and me dium-sized melon sleeves , are neat , Inex pensive wraps for evcry-day wear. The IrontB slope away below the buttons , dlsclox- ng the vest or full blouse beneath. The jack Is seamless , but the sides are closely Uted with two side forms. The sleeves ar ; sufllclently large to be slipped on and off above' the dress sleeve with can. The > ocl ( ts have crescent-shaped flits neatly tltclietl , and the buttons are large and stoowy. Perhaps the most graceful and elegant of all the winter models In fur wraps Is the style called the Rejane pelerine , a cap. pointed slightly In the back , shorter on the ihouldert1. fringed with sable or mink tails at tlis edge , and completed In front by stole ends that reach nearly to the skirt-hem , and also fringed to match the * cape. U Is lined with brocade and has a 'high vase-shaped collar. This wrap Is also made ot Nljnl ur , salskln , Corslcan fox , castor beaver , and skunk , called also Alaska sable. Feminine \otfH , Ex-Governor Flower and his niece , Mr * . 2mma G'rtrude Keep Halsey , have endowed five additional be4s In the Flower hospital at 5,000 each. ithcda Broughton , the English novelist , la a lover of rosei , and her llttlo old house In a Ittla old street In Oxford hau a walled gar den overrun with ros ? bushes and latticed Ines. It Is said that Sarah Grand has taken to ( cycling , A caustic critic observes that If he had adopted that or any other healthy orm of exerclsj earlier tha public might ave be.n spared "The Heavenly Twins. " Cafes toe womep are obtaining a decided ogue In New Yerlc. Men uro admitted , but nly when accompanied by women. Tea U ho favorite b.verage , but any desired drink lay be had even to the manly cocktail. Isabel Hapgood , the translator of Tolstoi' * works , mastered the Intricacies of the Russian language- with the nuisance of a testament and a dictionary. Tolotol con- pld'rs her the most efficient of those who have translated hi ? book * Miss Margaret Pollock Sherwood , Instructor In rhetoric nnd English literature at Wells- ley college , \a \ now- known to be the author ot the original little book , "An Experiment In Altruism , " which has Just reached Its third edition. The new attorney general's wife , Mrs. Harmon , has a reputation not only ns a bright woman and a clever conversationalist , but as a remarkable housekeeper. Stu as cribes all her success In this line to the fact that she tries to make her servants' quarters cheerful and their lives agrceible. Some one with n taste for figures has no ticed the fact that Mlsj Braddon , the novel ist , hay , In the thirty-three yearn since ho began to write , produced Just sixty romances. Each of them Is In three volumes , making ISO In all. She has , therefore , nmde copy enough for six printed pages on each day In all these years. Lady Augusta Gregory has been tolling i number cf stories about Klnglakc , and torn ot them are amusing. The author o "Eothcn" was afflicted with gout , and he hai a fancy to try a lady doctor , and wrote ti ono to ask If gout was beyond her scpc She replied : "D.'ar Sir : Gout ls not boyom my scope , 'but men are. " ' The methods employes ! by the average novelist to obtain material for a story ol the lower quarters must fill the denizens ol those quarters with Ironical mirth , Mrs , Humphrey Ward , who Is hard at work upon her new novel , which will deal once more with the "social problem , " has "been paying a visit to Stepney and Mile End , " with n view of obtaining local color. Ada Rehan Is not the only member of her family who Is cngjgc'l In theatrical work Not long ago there was a reunion of the Crchans as Miss Relmn's real name Is In Philadelphia , There were Mrs. Kate Byron nnd Mrs. Hattlo Ruswll , Miss Rchan's sisters - ters , and her nephew , Arthur Russell , as well as the distinguished lady herself. All four were acting In different companies. 1'rlncess Christian , the professional royal philanthropist of England , has been Inter rupted In her work of opening bazaars nnd encouraging charitable enterprises by the ordering of her eon , Prince Christian Victor , to Ashantco. The young prince's regiment Is the Fourth King's Royal Rifles. Ills mother's pleadings were In vain , however , and the young man goes with his regiment. Comparatively few women have done much work In the line of mural decoration. Ono who has attained distinction In this line Is Mrs. Anna L-ea Merrill , an English woman , who Is In much demand as n church decora tor. She has been making experiments In n new method of mural painting with the aid of metallic oxides and soluble silicates , and has successfully decorated In this way a church at Chllworth , England. Miss Julia Stevenson , the daughter of the vice president , who wllj make her debut this winter with her sister Lctttla , Is described as a distinct brunette , with wavy dark hair and hazel eyes , possessing a charming piquancy of manner. Miss Lctltla , the younger , Is the oppos'te of her sister both In appearance and characteristics. Her com plexion Is fair , and her hair Is a golden brown that waves gracefully over the brow and Is caught in a soft cell at the back of the neck. Mrs. Frances Hodgson Burnett said some clever things In reply to a toast nt a din ner given to her by the new Vagabond club of London. "I feel , " said she In the course of h r remarks , "that there Is a possibility a grave possibility of your saying that this method of stating the case Is feminine and Illogical. It Is ; that Is why I said It. I have not the slightest objection to being cither Illogical or feminine. To be either is amusing and Interesting in moment.3 cf idle leisure. " An English paper says : "The many ad mirers of the American Sappho , Mrs. Louise Chandler Moulton , will learn with rcgr t tl.at she Is returning to Boston. Few wcmcn of any nationality have had so many famous and lasting friendships with distin guished writers of both sexes as this be guiling poetess. Her calibrated 'golden voice' and genial manners have attracted her literary confreres of both hemispheres and her warm-hc < irtd sympathy and loyal friendship have kept them constant and urwaverlng In their devotion. " Newark has a cooking school conducted by two young women of high social posi tion. They are the daughters of the late St phsn Preston , who at the time of his rioath was acting as the representative of Haytl to the United States , but In previous years he represented that country In Paris. U'hen Mr. Preston dl.d It was found that he left no property. The young women now , on the advice of Mrs. John Sherwood , have taken this step to support themselves and their mother. Thsy have sent out a circular which bears the names of a score of New York and Washington matrons who patronize the plan. Miss Mary II. Kingsley , the niece of Canon Kingsley , who has won such renown by her African travels , descrlb s her ex periences as a "lion" very amusingly : "I v.os limping about London In 1S94 quite quietly , " she says , "and I was never more astonished than on reaching Liverpool this time to be assailed by a rampant reporter ! Oh , you can't think what Its been ! There were the ladles in Liverpool inviting mete to dine with l\\m when I hadn't a dress fit to be seen and the letters ! All sorts of people take this opportunity to ask all sorts of questions , and old sailors who may have captured n coaster In their youth , and are now completely 'ntlred , ' want to know full particulars of the condition of the west of Africa. And then the journalists ! Some have conducted the Interview with the serv ant at th : . door. "What does the wear ? " I heardone of these- gentlemen asking. 'Oh , nothing In particular ! ' cald the maid. " Whereupon Miss Kingsley decided to bo interview d personally. 0JI social occpkSions. You cannot go Uo 1he opcro > [ without i zs Whiff of PUJWEAZ1LEA THE FASHIONABLE PERFUME. Flowery , refreshing , delicate And i&srinjf. o For s&le by druggist's only. IMPERIAL CRC'WN PERFUMERY CO , SAiriT LOUIb. MEYER BROTHERS DRUG CO..AGEHT5 * " * BELU5\Two \ /WEDDIMG / new onOn" \PEACHBUOW.j \ odors. Be Sure It's Pure You don't want to eat adulterated buckwheat or buckwheat that isn't buckwheat at all. Wright's ' BuckWheat - Wheat is an honest product. Nothing but plain buckwheat of the very best kind. At Your Dealers. Kvery Mpmtali will quickly from tlio skin and the complexion will b'H-onu' nbsolutoly lu-rfect ami clear im crystal by the use of Mttie. M. Yale's World-Famous Complexion Remedies At 4 * j\in or use Mmc. M. Ynlo Is cnllcsl the motl lifnulirul unman llvinp , Bli ilor * not lO'ik mole thnn 18. nml mrmMcii nn tiniiel more tli.in n lleunnan. . Her licnuty lina rntlnly IH-PII rullUnteil nml hfr youth f > rtreil by the uio of tlif c remedies. .Mini * . VAIiK'N Aliiiiniil lllo Noii Cri-uni Ki'dneH ccmrse porcn , kfrpi the skin smooth niul iii-rfect. $1.00 | ior Jar. Mini * . VAI.K'S SI ; I ii Komi HiMOVlS WlUN'Kl.nS nnd nil trnce of nco. HcMore * unit | > rrvr\ youth. Jl.to nml 13.00 Jiu l\\o sizes. Mm ? . YAl.K'.S Slt > Hiil I.otlnil i n stutu cum : ron I'IMI-LUS. n.oo tier liottle. MintVAMVS Hitrolnl Ointment A duro cure for Illnckhcnils. $1.00 per Jar. MIIIP. YAI.H'S Mole .t Wurt Kvtruetur. Itenunes Warts ntul Moles In n tew npi'Uca- tlonn $3.00 per bottle. Mini * . YAl.K'.S llllMl Kooil Di'volops n perfect Kvck nml Dual ! It ore- nlrs plumpness nml llrmncnti. Jl.OO nml H.OO per Jar tv\o sizes. . Mini.YAl.K'.S Complexion Illi-noh OtmranteeJ lo remove snllrwness , moth patches Hlul nil Fkln blemishes. It KlveH n. rmturnl complexion of m.irvtloui purity nnd bounty. $2.00 per bottle. Mine. YAM'VS llhlr Tonlo The Mist unU only dlscu\ciy In the hletory of chemistry known to turn irrny hair bnclt In lit natural color \\lthcnit il > o. It stops hair falllnn In 24 hours un.l creates a lux uriant growth. It Is n perfect hair dressing for Keneral line nnd n irunmnteed cuie for nil manner of scalp dlsc.i e pure nnd wonderful. $1.00 per bottle ; C for J5.00. Mine. YAI.C'S KIKIr tit lloiuity Cultluitcu natuinl tovy cheeks. A wonderful kkln tonic. $1.00 per bottle. " Mini- . YAl.r.'H Illooil Tonle rurlfles the' blood nnd cures liver nnd kidney complaints. tl.UO per bottle ; C for $3.00. Mine. YAI.K'S L3j vlirtnr mill Kyelnnh t ! c < > or Jl.OO per Jar. .time. YAI.K'S Ilnnil AVlilteiicr * $1.00 per bottle. Mine. YAI.H'S Celeliriied Lit Froclcltl The only Freckle Cure. $1.00 per bottle. Mine. YAl.K'.S FitmoiiM Cirent Scott The only permanent cure of superfluous hair. Takes but live minutes to remove hairs , roots nnd nil ; doen not hurt. $5.00. MiniYAI.K'S FniK Cum A dl-tlnct remedy nnd nexer fnlllnn cure for fem.ilocaknc5s In nny foim. The best tonic e\er compounded for toning up n wcnk sjstem. $1.00 per bottle ; 6 for $3.00. Write for Mine. YALH'S "Guide to llenuty. " Send 10 cents to pay posture. All driiRKlftB nnd dealers sell these remedies. Itcttaro of counterfeits. X. H. I will pay $3.000.00 for the arrest nn < l conviction cf nny one counterfeiting my rem- cd'fs. ' ( Sinned ) Mme. M. YALE. CUKES QUICKER ANY OTHER REMEDY. Tarrant's Hxtract of Cu- bebn nml Capnllia Is a safe , certain nnd quick cure for Ronorrlica nnd ne t nnd Is nn old- tried remedy for all diseases nf the urinary or gans. Combining In a highly concent ui Ifil form the me- illrlnnllrtuos of cubrlia and capnlbn. Iti portnbla fdiniie. freedom from tuata nnd rpeody notion ( curing In lets time than nny other preparation ) make It Tim MOST VAMJAHLi : KNOWN IU5MEDY. To prevent fraud. see that \fry packn e- tins ii red BtiJp ncruHtt the face of label , with thn KlKtiuturo of Tarrant & Co. . N. Y. , upon It. I'niCC , 11.09. Bold by all Patronize Home Industries Ily ptireliuHlnjr urooiln ninilc at the /ol. lowlni ? NobrimUu fncturli-H. If you en ii not Hint AT hat you want communi cate Tvlth tnc lu'uiiufiictururn an to nluit iloalvm Immllu tliclr HAGS. IIUIthAl' AND TWINE. Manufacturers of ull kinds of cotton and bur lap Lai ; . cotton Hour cnckg und twlno a tpec- lally. C14-CIC-618 S. lllh B u OMAHA HUE WIN lASS' l Car load shipments made In our own rcfrlg- finfpr rnis. nine Hlbbon. Elite Kxnort , Vienna Export , and Family Uxport , delivered to all parti bf city , CAHHIAGISS AND WAOONH. DKUMA10ND CARRIAGE CO. put lubber tires and ball. tearing axles on their nun mnko vehicle ) , and fell a top buk'zy fur HO 00 licMdiu. Wilte them. Uth and Ilnrney. COFF1SI2 , SPICKS , IIAICING I'OWDER. " CONSOLIDATED COI'TEE CO Coffee UoaeterB , Kplco Grinders. Manufacturer ! Herman linking I'otvder nnd Herman Dry lion Ventt , 1114 nnd 1418 Homey HI. , Omaha , Neb. S. F. OILMAN. Manufacturer of Gold Medal Flour. C. E. Ulack. Manaicer. Omaha , IHON WOIIKS. INDUSTKIALll IRON WOKS Manufuclurlnif and lU-palilng of all kind ! or machinery , engines , jmrnpi. elevators , printing pifBte * . hangers , .haftlns and couplings 1 < 96 and HOS Howard Ht. . Omnha. 1 > AXTON& VIEKLIN'n IRON W'KKS Manufacturers of Architectural Iron Work , General Foundry , Machine and Hluckimllh Work. Unglneers and Contractor * for I'lru 1'roof Ilulldln . Oinre und works : U , I' , Ily. and Bo. nth street Omn'in. _ Ni i' nun , rHICTTELE. UKAi'U. rhe only pet feet protection to property , Examlnt It , licit tlilnr on earth , lleduccs Insurance rates. 1304 Douglas Bt. KATX.NEVINS CO. Manufacturers cf Urn's and Floys' Clothlnr. I'unls , Shirts nndO\erulli. _ 2j2-21t H. Uth 81. SHIHT FACTOUICS. J. H.EVANS-NEIWASKA SHlltT COMPANY. Uuliulve custom chlrt tallcXs. iiu