THE OMAHA DAILY BEEt JANUATlY 5 , 1800 ,
WOMAN'S DOMAIN ,
A TI 1,1.1 : itnm AL.
Hoplinnnitfi Textile * nmlneiiM ) ' Sinurl
for Hte.iiltiK ( JowttN ,
NEW YOIUC , Jan. 2. Though Christmas
jln past the glad period for gay people Is
Rtlll with us , and , young ( oiks' parties being
the order ot the day , evening toilets for
In their Irons nro now the things
| hat have precedence for discussion. Ma-
trials for these arc the same as for gowns
nuturcr wearers , the rich brocaded silks
\nl \ velvets exccptid , and all the dainty
glumes show a simplicity of cut and trim-
nlng that speaks well for the taste and
Slscrctlon of mammas In these days ot ex
travagance and magnificence.
Diaphanous textiles are much In favor and
lot tlicsa tulle takes the lead as affording
' more youthful possibilities than the gauzes
r chiffons.
Plain tulles are moro used , cither for the
icntlro gown or ai a trimming : to a satin or
[ > taffeta foundation , and \\licro ttio whole
frock IB made of It a bJtvlldcrlng effect Is
gained by having the under slip ot a change
able taffeta , a violet with stiver rights , per
haps , npplo green with gold , or a delicate
Mile that Is pink In the shadows.
White over any of these changing tones Is
very charming , though the tulle Is often In
one of Hie shades of the foundation.
TUB PAIR YOUNO WOMKX.
In either case , however , the trimming for
BUch a gown should be as simple as pos
sible , a vtlvct or natln bolt , nnd knots or
garlands of small artificial flowers on the
bddlco. as the chameleon changes of the
under slip arc the points to bo kept before
the eye.
Then , for very slim maids , who are fond of
Kllttcr , there are tulles sprinkled scatter-
Ingly all over with tiny gilt or sliver
L spangles that make up with fairy-like prettl-
ness.
Others again are sewn with pointed or
/-round pearl drops , or nre embroidered or tied
WlL. j colored chenille thread In loops and
tufts aml though gowns In these last may
have AW belt and bodice trimming ot velvet
ribbon In the same ehade , or In a color on
white , a pearl embroidered tulle Is most
elegant when trimmed only with white satin
ribbon. When the gown Is entirely of
cpunglcd tulle there IB often a narow belt
and a bodlco knot or two of tinsel braid
In the gilt or silver of the spangle ; ' . With
BUch acostume , , white satin shoes are advised
as the best taste , tut. If preferred , gilt or
silver shoes are declared In keeping.
As to the making up of all this airy love
liness , It seems generally admitted that a
K OREEN TUJj E OVKIt WHITE.
baby bodice and full-gathered skirt is the
prettiest diaphanous-gown model for young
ladles between 1C and 20.
Their elders may aluo wear the same to
advantage , " as such n model not only dis
guises a too-slight figure , but softens one
too plump by Its pretended looseness , and
nothing could be more charmingly girlish
for slim maids In their teens.
MODCL GOWNS.
A tulle gown on this order Is shown In
the illustration. It Is of pale green over
white taffsta ulllt , with a green velvet belt ,
and the bodice decoration ot white musk
roses and sprays of email flowers.
The foundation skirt la-in five gores , and
over this the tulle ono In lump ; full and
caught to the underskirt at the hem by a
rose quilling. The bodlco haa the round
baby neck now allowed very youns ladles ,
and the buttons of the short puffed sleeves
and finished with a twist of velvet to
match the belt.
For very Ellght figures the waist could
bo entirely girdled with the flowers , but
In this case the sash arrangement at the belt
Is very pretty. A bandeau of the small
flowers , with a musk rose at the left , la
worn In the hair ,
Palo rose tulle with garlands of pink
m033-roEcbiils ( would also be a charming
combination for this model. For a very
pale blonde , light blue with scarlet coral
flowers Is modish and becoming , and on
pink , blue , gren , or white tulle any deli
cate pink flower would bo suitable.
Another way to make the skirt Is to have
n deep , hem and tucks , and allow It to hang
loose from the foundation. If there are sev
eral tulle Bklrts , ono over the other , as Is
Bomotlmcs the case , the edges of all are left
raw and are also not caught to the petti
coat. For the bodice , with this , great fly
away bows , with edges likewise left raw ,
nre an airy and becoming finish to the
Blioulclcrs.
Chiffon skirts , If allowed to hang loose
from the foundation , are hemmed or trimmed
with a narrow frill edged with , lace.
For th ? bodlco of these there are very beau-
, fiIADBD TAFFETA SIMC AND AZALIA
1'INIC VBL.VET.
tlful gauze embroideries , worked In delicate
I'erulau colors with tinsel threads , that are
put ou In bands or shaped bretelles , or jacket
pieces. Tlievs are not always expensive and
when uwil with discretion an effect of cx-
troma elegance Is created ,
VALUABLE SUaQKST10N3.
If there U an old Bilk or satin party gown
in the young lady's wardrobe , or In her
mamma's for that matter , It can be put to
good uuj au a lining ta a thin white crepon.
llircuEh this any pale color \\lll glow prettily ,
und hurt over much patched the lining It will
never show.
On tba boilce , a touch of yellow valen-
clennca lace , and taffita rlbbonu to match the
cobr ot lining , la Bulllclent gatnlture.
In the gown with the square Deck and broad
collar arrangement. Is given a graceful Idea
for a taffeta illk for a young lady who hau
already made her bow to the world. The illk
In tula CIDO Is white shaded acrosi the grain
with uneven rays of deep azalea-pink. The
cellar , belt and , ' band at the iklrt bottom are
Of velvet ta the KUQO tone , the Mowers * at the
, . . . . . . . . . . - - . . - .n
ehctildcia being pink and w lie nzalup , alter
nating , The Jewels worn flrc a beetle pin , set
closely , in silver , with small brilliant ? , and a
tiny watch with a case In pink enamel and
pearls.
The fan U on empire shape In whlt > Rauze ,
with medallions set In acd whit ? enamel
clicks. These dainty llttlo fans are very much
In evidence at present , nnd even the mort In-
expenDlvo of them ar chinning. The more
tiny they are the more stylish they are con
sidered.
DEBUTANTE FASHIONS.
Young ladles not yet In society are not
given to much Jewelry , though with their low
party frocks they sometimes wear small en
amelled lockets on thin gold chains , close
about the throat.
A single raw of tiny setd pearls Is also oc
casionally seen. Again a long , too thin throal
will bo prettily owathcd by one of the tall
white tutln stocks , with a big bow al the
ntlMINK LINED RVENINQ WHAI'S.
back , cultivated by the nsw duchess of Mnrl-
boroueh. For the hair there are charming
llttlo bandeaux mart ? of white satin ribbon ,
with a * mall butterfly bow at onu side , that
o n bo bought ready made.
A new and dainty fashion for the feet Is a
very old one rovfeed. This Is to tie the satin
ijllppcru on with narrow ribbons , crossing
thm over the Ini'tcp , and winding them
about slim ankles In the pretty old-world way
uir grandmothers loved.
Evening wraps for young ladies show a
happy dearth of the tlnssled stuffs now only
too frequently seen.
The capes arc made short and knuo length ,
and arc In broadcloth , in white or pale tones ,
or In tinted orbltn silk.
If ot silk , tluro may be a collar and lining
ot ermine , but quilted silk linings , being
much less expensive , are more- frequently
seen. Instead of the high collar so long
worn , a newer fancy Is to havs a wide ,
spreading hood , lined with gathered chiffon ,
that can on occasions be drawn over the
head.
head.A pretty evening cape recently worn by
a young lady of 17 will servo as a good model
when expense ID to be considered. This was
In light-brown cloth , faced only with a very
fluffy quality of eiderdown flannel In pale
blue , and with blue chiffon In the hood.
NINA FITCH.
MAIDS OV till HAT L.AU1CS.
StorlcH of Women Who Serve NIMV
York'M Xotnlili'M.
"A typically well maided woman. Is Mrs.
John D. Rockefeller , who , mo matter how
simple her costume may be , " raid an ad
miring person and capable critic , "bears
the Impress of an artist hand upon her ,
from the crown of her sleek head to the
tips of her Irreproachable carriage shoes.
Such a rfiaid Is worth her weight In wages
and could get It whenever she chose to leave
her present employer. "
The nearest rival of Mrs. Rockefeller's
mold Is Mrs. Crugcr'f femme do chambre.
She's a famous French woman , a particu
larly capable hair dresser and her chief
recommendation to her lady Is the quality
most highly esteemed In the smart maid ,
of understanding her mistress' moods. These
Intelligent servants quickly learn to study
their employer's nervco and temper. They
know when to soothe with sympathy , when
to cheer with a bit of flattery or placate
with a little well-timed gossip.
But don't for a moment think the ladles
maids lives arc spent only In pretty trifling
ever the mletrcss' toilet and accepting scold
ings or careless confidence. Of tne latter
they do receive a good deal , but anyone who
has visited In smart houses can see that
the more wealthy and fashionable the woman
they serve , the harder and more trying their
work. For example , Mrs. Frederick Van-
derbllt's maid. In town or In Newport dur
ing thn season , must nuke cri.l unmaU ? com-
plcto toilets for her mistress as ofter as five
times a day. No less than sixty gowns are con
stantly to bo kept In apple-pic order , five or
six hours ot sleep out of the twenty-four
Is about all the maid catches and she la
held accountable for every valuable In her
clmrfc '
Mr Cornelius Vanderbllt , on the con-
tiary , gives her maid very little trouble.
She practically makes her own toilets and
the attendant Is n ver allowed In the room
till she Is ready to have' her gown hoojtcd in
place. The mother of the duchess of Marlborough -
borough , unlike her sisters-in-law , keeps two
maids and both of them Irish girls that she
had specially trained for h r use. and Mrs.
I'hcebo Hearst characteristically has chosen
for her maid a Swedish girl who speaks five
languages.
Hut who Is a heroine to her femme dc
chambre ? An nrtonlshlngly large number of
mlstr.Eses , If one can Judge by the devotion
and fidelity of many of these servants. Mr.
Drummers Mortimer was never a staunchcr
friend than Is the mold f a famously rich
New York woman , who Is known among her
feminine friends regularly to overstep her
allowance. It's h r maid who keeps the
hungry dressmakers and milliners at bay.
> < uppllcs , loans out of her own savings and
utilizes the pawnshops In her employer's be
half. If the maids enjoy confidences not
many of them tattle It abroad , though there
is occasionally the att ndant who keeps her
place only because she holds her tongue , and
thcro Is yet repeated the famous case of the
mistress and maltl who bargained beforehand
that the s'rvjnt for a consideration , would
put up with the madamo's well "known
temper. For yearo the maid patiently doJgoJ
flying missiles when at her labors before the
mirror and swallowed scoldings as best she
might , for when the will WOB read elie came
In for a 1 gacy big enough to heal every
wound.
Now , Mrs. William Astor , the most con
siderate and gracious wonvin In the world , Is
a genuine heroine with her servants. Only
sudden death or equally Implacable matri
mony has < ver robbed her of her maids ,
No tiring woman ever waited up for her
after 11 o'clock , nor suffered rebukes for any
parting whim , and they tell a pretty story
of a country house , lady's nvild , a poor over
worked thing , who was detailed to aid this
distinguished guest In'dressing for dinner.
Awaiting th * lady's arrival In the bed
room , sheer exhaustion overcame watchful
ness and down among the divan pillows the
girl fell asleep. A glance at the pale face
way enough for the kindly wom-in , who
quietly made herself r.'ady , turned tha gas
low , left a consoling tip In the sleeper's
hand , went toftly out of the room and It
was only by way of the servants' hall that
thi Incident ever came to light.
I'ATUIOTIO I'LAXS.
Iove of Country In the llrnrtx of
Amerleiiii Women ,
The spirit of patriotism Is more popular
than ever this season , and especially art
the feminine patriotic organizations flour
ishing In all their glory. The largest and
most powerful of thetv > is the National So
ciety of the Daughters of the American Revolution
elution , now numbering nearly twelve
thousand fair lineal descendants cf the rev
olutionary heroes , with chapters In all parts
of the union. The New York City chapter ,
ander the regency of Mrs. Donald McLean ,
Is the banner chapter. Consequently , Its
projects for this aeatpn arc of Interest to
ill similar associations and are of ouch a
tilgh order that they could be used with
iroflt as models In planning a scheme of pro
cedure by other patriotic cotcrleu.
Tits season's first big affair ot tnU lead-
Ing chapter occurs tomorrow , January C , at
Sherry's , In the white and gold ball room ,
when a brilliant assemblage of men and
wom ° n will commemorate the anniversary ot
Washington's wedding day. The guests ot
honor arc to be a score or more of distin
guished personages , Including Mrs. Adlal
Stevenson , wife of the nation's vice presi
dent , , and herself first honorary president
ot the National Society of Daughters.
The decorations of American flags and
trl-colored buntlnc will carry out the spirit
of the occasion , and dainty souvenirs In thi
form ot the chapter's history printed In
little white and silver volumes , tied with
the society's emblematic colonial blue and
white watered ribbon , will be presented to
each visitor. The entertainment continues
from 4 until 7 o'clock , the addresses begin
ning at t > , when same of the guests ot
honor will make a few happy and pertinent
remarks , and at their close a collation will
be served. The natabls company Is re
ceived by the- officers , and the music will
bo a pleasant feature.
The next thing on the carpet comes a
noticeable loan collection of colonial and
revolutionary relics , Including family portraits
traits , rare miniatures , antique furniture ,
Jewels , laces , fans , ornaments and valuable
historical documents. These are to bo
gathered from old homesteads , family ar
chives or the rich store ot heirlooms caicfully
guarded by the present offspring of famous
progenitors , and rumor Is abroad that at
the closeof the exhibition , ft goodly number
of the precious antiques are to remain to
form the nucleus of a permanent New York
museum of relics under the auspices of the
"Daughters" and other masculine as well
as feminine orders. This loan collection Is
to occur during Lent , and Will last for about
a fortnight. The admission price Is to be
60 cents. The chairman of this exhibit's
committee Is Mrs. Gertrude. Van Cortlandt
Hamilton , one ot New York's most beauti
ful society leaders , and a woman of much
Intelligence and executive ability.
The third noteworthy undsrtaklng of the
New York chapter will be the second course
of lectures at Uarnard college , Columbia's
feminine annex. Last season the chapter
founded a chair of colonial and revolutionary
history at Barnard , thus Inaugurating tha
greatest educational feat of any patriotic
organization of cither sex. This year the
lectures on early American history are to be
delivered by Charles Dudley Warner , the
noted writer of history and fiction. The
lectures pay for themselves , as tickets ore
sold to the many persons anxious to avail
themselves of such a privilege , though the
course Is free to chapter members.
These doings of the revolutionary society s
noticed what a beauty It wm , touched hi
hat , nd said , In a dignified * onp <
"MiiUme , you've lost forntthlnfc"
She looked down , blushed * glanced at he
Pt dog , picked up the article si ml said :
"Oh , Fldo , you've lost j-our cellar , JTOI
naughty dog ! " and oft trotlWi Hldo , resplcn
dent In cream elartlc , gold , Jewels and rib
ban , and the man was left < Standing It
amarement.
Silver buckles always have bwn and nro
silll more popular than those mn'do of gold
and a firm of silversmiths has brought ou
tome Interesting designs. The craze for ath
letlc sports shows Itself hire 'ns well as
clwwhere , and the womaft cyclist raves
over a pair of plain , bright silver buckles
decorated with a scorcher on h6r wheel In
chased work and finished at thi edge- with
the bead design. These buckles arc mountci
on plain clastic and finished with black
fringe Instead of the usual ribbon bow , am
they cost I7.SO.
For the girl who has not given up her
horse tor a wheel there Is a horseshoe
buckle with a horse's head In It , and there
are ala > yachting , fishing , golf and tennis
designs. A garter buckle Is a queer place to
wear the picture of some loved one , but there
arc women who like to do so , and the manu
facturers have catered to their tasteby
rraklng a heart-shaped buckle which con-
talna a case for a photograph. Some of these
open with a secret lock , and the picture
Is hidden from sight ; but the picture forms
the top ot otlieir. One young woman an
nounced as she purchased a pair that sh
Intended to put her pet dog's picture I * one
and that of her best beau In the other , ant'
then looked hurt because everybody within
hearing smiled ,
A wreath of hamUchased roses Is a dainty
buckle and shows up well on plain Nile
gtcen elastic. Another pretty design comes
In solid gold and sliver. The former Is made
of red gold , satin finished and Is ornamented
with a wreath chased In red and green
flowers and leaves. In the center of the
wreath Is a diamond and the price Is $70 a
pair. The same design Is carried out In
French gray silver and Is very modest
looking. Cupid preside : ! over many ot the
poweut silver buckles , and his llttlo head ,
with the sauciest of expressions on the face ,
peeps out from an elaborately carved scroll
In the French cray silver.
Other scroll der'gns nre studded with gar-
netn or turquotra , and many of the plain
buckles are Inlaid with designs of foliage or
Insects In gilt , and havj a chased edge.
Most women do not like to keep up their
stockings with clastic bands for the very rca-
EOIUI expressed by this girl , and consequently
adopt the hose supporter , which Is brought
cut In many styles by Jewelers and dry goods
men. Those made of silk elastic and flnlshc :
with solid gold or sliver pins , buckles am
clamps are brought out In the fleur-de-lis
heart , clover leaf , and plain round and oblong
I designs , and vary In price from $2 to $18.
They run as high as $75 when set with Jewels.
I These are not carried in stock , as men do not
'tTi buy the supporters , but prefer the
TAFFETA AND WRAP OF
CHANGEABLE
GOWN OF WHITE MUSLIN OVCR
BROCADE AND VELVET.
leading chapter are nil occurrences that can
easily be followed by the sister societies.
Distinguished guests can always be found
to give eclat to a fins social reunion. In
every part of the country must be preserved
rare and beautiful relics and heirlooms that
only need an Impetus on the pirt of their
cwn'.rs to bring them to th& light of day
for the benefit of the publ c in general.
Kvery locality has , too , Its man or woman
with historical proclivities , and local school *
If not colleges are always watting to be en
riched by a gift of a chair In American his
tory , or a course ot lectures on the coun
try's early periods. _
VEHY COSTLY GAHTHIIS.
of fiolil mill Silver Set Tvllli
IreeloiiH Stoned.
"I should say wo were selling garter bucklea
for the holiday trade , " said one of the man
agers of a larso Jewelry store to a New York
Sun man. "W * eold 100 pairs last week , and
we've sold nearly as many this , and the week
Isn't half gone yet. Do the women like the
gold or sliver best ? Why , bless my toul ,
slnco I coma to think of It , It Is a rare thing
for a woman to buy a handsome pair of gar-
lero. Men do most of th ? buying , and the
o'.yles In silver and gold this season are far
richer than ever before. The- very latest
thing out la quite a queer looking affair , but
thtt women rave over It and the men buy.
The buckles are set In the middle of big bows
of ribbon , an * are enamelled wreaths cf but
terflies or flowers on a gold wlrj. The ekU'Uu
Is covered with a broid band of shirred rosa
tutln rlbboa to match the bow , and from it
hangs a frill of handsome ? cream lace. Ths
prlca Is $15 a pair.
"Jeweled garters are quite the rage , though
It is hard : to get a woman to o n that she
wears them. Bo that aa It may , the women
alwaya step and admire them , and one of the
favcrlta designs IB a buckle mad' of plain
Roman gold with a crown ect In diamonds In
the center The edge Is fllnshcd In raUj.l
chased work , and the- patters cout $130 a pair ,
"One of the most toitly buckles that hau
bosn brought out ID known as ths chscker
bard , It Is completely covered with dia
monds. cut square , and black enamel , and one
c : ts J225. A very pretty buckle comes from
I'arls , but It muut be admitted that It Is a bit
dashing. It ID madr cf crystal , A picture of
a racing hcrw handled by a sporty looking
man Is blown In from the hick. The crystal
Is ml In a horiv ) shoe of diamonds. A Roman
gold clasp with a question mark In diamonds
In the center attracts much attention. The
women say , with a llttlo nervous laugh aj
they look at It sparkling In Ita dainty velvet
case :
" 'It's beautiful , but how migs stlve the
( iup tloi : mark looks , '
"Scrolls are being used quite extensively
In gold and silver just now , and the hand-
Earnest is hand-carved out of one lump ot
solid gold , and contains two diamonds eel
In platinum , A simple buckle made after
the style of the old-time gold bucklea worn
by our grandmothers U studded with pearls
and makes an appropriate- gift for a bride ,
Something new In the way of a heart
buckle clamps automatically , like a man's
euspender buckle , and thlu docs away with
the back of the ordinary garter , which U
sometimes clumsy. The hearts arc each set
with thrie small diamonds In the shape of
a clover leaf , and sell at $4d a pair. "
The gold garter buckles are BJ magnificent
.hat any girl who owes a pair might show the
same presence of mind undr slm'lar clr-
cutnstanccD that a famous New York beauty
did at Newport a few years back. She was *
walking on the beach when the- lost one of
icr garters. The buckle was magnificently
jeweled and wax mounted on th daintiest
of cream-lace-cdged webbing and finished
with a chlu bow of ribbon and lace. A man
who happened to be walking just bihlnd the
adKiW the Barter fall , and when ho
buckles mounted on the bands. The support-
era can be bought In a great variety of styles ,
made of cotton , lisle or silk webs , at the lead.
Ing dry goods shops , and have nickel fasten
ing. ? , the prices varying from 25 cents to $2 ,
according to style and material. .
CHANT AM )
Mnry AmlerMOii < le Xuvnrro I'nyw
Them Pretty TrlliuU-H.
In all her'letters and writings Mary Ander
son d3 Navarro's fondness for the friends cf
her early days is clearly shown. In January
Ladles' Home Journal the recalls some of
thosj who have passed away , notably Booth ,
Manager Macauley , John T. Ford , and thus
records her meeting wjth and estimate o (
General Grant : "It was during my delight
ful southern tour ( the first ) that Dr. Grtflln
presented me to- General then President
Grant , whom he had known In old soldiering
days , when the general had captured and Im
prisoned him. It was pleasant ta see these
enemies In war m friendly In times of peace.
Klndllncsj and simplicity were marked traits
of the president , while a certain ruggedness
cf manner and spiech that was suggestive ot
his earlier Ufa gave an additional Interest to
all ha said and did. In showing us over the
whlta house his pleasure In pointing out
various trophies was undisguised and bylsh.
While lunching with him , the natural way In
which ho brought himself down to th * level
of my ycuth and small experlcnca of life with
out a touch of that visible condescension so
annoying to the young , was charming. " Meet
ing him Eome yearo after , and falling to rcc-
ognlro him , Mrs. d ? Navarr * records that
affr lily speaking to her and announcing
himself as General Grant , before she recalled
him , he raid jokingly In response to her con-
fusjd utterance that he had " > changed : "
"Yes , I have grown thinner and paljr ; I am
no longer president , you see , and am consequently
" ' l'j < 1
quently less banqueted.
"It was about this tlinb1 that my
friendship with General Hheriilan also be
gan , " writes Mro. d ? Navarra.'Ho ; ' was one
of the few eminent men I * have1 met whoso
Interest In every subject ! od'cdtrrcrsatlon ' was
so great that his particular'metier ' could not
have be n guessed. He kneyv much about the
stage , Slmke : < pcare and tile Urania generally ,
and was a passionate lover cf the arts , think
ing them all worthy of eclual1 regard. As a
critiche was good , though'pirhaps ; , too en-
thuylastc ! over any cxcsllcnce , however email ,
If genuine enthusiasm can.be called a fault.
Ills manner was brlbk and hearty. Ills per
sonality gave the trnprc lpn' of a rugged
strength , so much so that his entrance Into a
room was like a breath cf tr < f \ , Invlgsratlng
air , H ? scorned fear and ! dl,9Couragemcnt of
every klnj , and refused to allow any one to
give way to either. " ' , i
IOWA'S MO.YUMSIi WCMIKN.
lliiri'iin of Ilpeliiroelty. Which IN to
DliriiNtKiioultilKu lit Low Jliitt-M.
The latest Invention of the Iowa woman ,
says the New York Sun , is a Bureau of Reci
procity. U is not one of the good old-fash
ioned kind by virtue of which Mrs. Smith
borrowed butter of Mrs , Jones via the back
door , with the understanding that Mrs. Jonej
should borrow coffee or something el to of her
the next time. This sort of reciprocity still
exists In various out-of-the-way parts'of Iowa
and In certain circles of society , but , gener
ally speaking , borrowing Isn't what It used
to be , even In the Hawkey } state.
The new-fangleJ Bureau of Reciprocity haa
another name. It Is an adjunct of the Iowa
Federation of Women's Club ? , and Its head
quarters are at Cedir Raplda. The rec prolty
element consists In th ? Interchange of "lec
tures , talks , readings and manuscripts , " and
judging from the circular Issued by the bu
reau , the Iowa women arc not destined to re
main In Ignorance of any conceivable mibjccl.
Thirteen town * In different part * of ( he state
src represented In the burt u , although others
may benefit by It. Seventy-five women living
In then ? thirteen towns have prepared a total
cf 100 "lectures , talks , readings and manu
scripts , " which they arc prepared to lend to
women's clubs thirsting for Information.
These various document * range over every
branch of thought , embracing such subjects
as "Arabian Caravan Routes" , " "Women In
Polities , " "The Beginnings of Aryan Clvlllza-
tlon , " and "Shall We Teach Our Daughters
Specialties : "
The seventy-flv # women arc divided Into
half a dozen grpupt. Three of them , who
have probably bfcn more abundantly blessed
with this world's goods than the others , will
visit clubs and read their respective papers
fr o of any charge , even paying their own
expenses. These thrcs will probably have a
busy season , Pcrhips before spring Mrs.
Ccrollne II. Gardntr , who Is one of the throe ,
will know more than she decs now about th'
subject of her paper , "Tho Prose and Poetry
of Poverty , " She will probably spend all her
substance In railroad fares this winter.
Next to these three fr"e lectures comes i
grcup of stay-at-home ! , who will send thcl
manuscripts ) out on demand. Several mem
btrs of this group arc from Coon Rapids , am
they touch on such subjects as "Women li
Politics" ( fifteen minutes ) , "The Klndergartei
for Mothers"seven . ( minutes ) , and "Tho Idea
Home" ( six mlnut s ) . It wlil be noticed tha
In Coon Rapids It takes fifteen minutes to di
Justice to a woman In politics , while the Idea
home Is polished off In exactly elx minutes.
The next group Includes a goodly numbe
of women who will lend their manuscripts
cr , It sufficiently urg d , will go In person am
read their productions. Payment of cxpensei
Is considered to bo sufficient urging. Tin
next group , somewhat smaller , will not lent
their manuscripts , but Mill go and ren
them , expenses paid. Next comes a final
group of one woman , who will read any oni
of a dozen papers , anywhere In the state o
Iowa , for the sum of $25. Another will reat
a paper on "Tho'Man Who Thinks. " Bu
this Is considered to have Involved so mucl
research and trouble that It Is held to hi
cheap at $25 and expenses. Finally , there t' '
the Treble Clef Concert company , consisting
of three women who may be engag d for $4 (
*
and expnisei .
Hero In New York we are very likely t <
give ourselves airs and think that we arc
not so wild and woolly as some oth r pcopli
are , "the which , no names being mentioned
no offense wlll bo took. " But these lowc
women seem not only to know all about the
camel paths across the desert of Sahara , anO
all the II Hs of art and science and literature
but they have also perfected a very excellenl
method of diffusing their knowledgJ. Iowa
used to be the second uiate In the union li :
point of education , Massuchus Its will him
to look to her laurels or establish a Bureai
of Reciprocity.
FILM 111 oil Noted.
Beaded velvet and printed velvet aie Ir
high favor.
Small flat pearl buttons arc used as trlnv
mlngs en the corsages of cloth gowns.
The Louis XV. coat effect Is now employed
even when the neck cf the corsage is cul
decollate.
Military looking cuffs , a la Trilby , are otter
ceen upon walking jackets , with big buttons
and frogs.
Silver pins for fastening boas are among
the novel trinkets of the season. A des'.r-
able shapa Is the wishbone.
Oriental Jewelry is a fad , and rare , qualnl
necklaces and clasps arc made to do effective
and artistic service on handsome frocks.
Full soft ruches cf colored gauze are
modish and bscomlng. They nre cut In leaf
tashlon on the. edges , and the effect Is ex
tremely pretty.
Sciew earrings seem once again to be
coming Into populailty. The favorite combl-
latlon shows turqualsa csnters encircled by
diamonds.
A touch of brilliant cherry red In vlvet or
satin is an accessory that Is very prominent
n winter < mllllnery and on fancy waists for
jcth day and evening toilets.
A prettier decoration for the neck of a
frock has a band of fur surmounted by a soft
luff cf laoa , the edg ? standing out around the
neck like a frame.
A new device In a brooch Is a heart from
which spring Cupld'a wings. The heart U
encrusted with diamonds , and the. , wings arc
studded with turquoise.
Sliver pen extractors arc a new accessory
'or the writing desk this season , and , al
though small , are strong enough to extract
the most stubborn pen from Its holder and
111 a long-felt want.
The Ideal of the skirt of the shcrt Jacket
s that It should stand straight out four or
IH-o Inches from ths flgur ? , and In this It Is
materially aided In extreme instances by
padded hips.
The long shoulder seam Is working another
onslaught on the citadel of fashion and may
yet win an unquestioned victory. It goes
with the queer bunchy sleeves In the middle
of the upper arm.
The latest card cassa and pocketbsoks are
itade from a Irather that Is called elephant's
ilie. It has rather a rough surface , and Is
of a light tan color. They are mounted at
.he corners In dull gold , or have a plain gold
land around them , headed by a narrow bead-
ng.
ng.Frlra canlche Is the name given to one of
the new fabrics with a rough surface of
curled wool. The name canlche Is the name
; lven to French poolles In their native land ,
and the soft , rough surface Is not unlike the
black skins of these creatures.
The Nethersolei coiffure , a Parisian fancy ,
is at the moment very popular among fash
ionable young women the fancy of wearing
the hair parted down the center and waved
over the ears , hiding them wholly from view ,
and caught up In a soft knot Just above the
nape of tha neck.
New menu cards come In the form of
fruits and vegetables , such as apples , pears ,
potatoes , cucumbers and lemons. They are
colored like the natural fruits , and the menu
Is written on the under side. The cards
are fastened to a piece of satin ribbon , on
which Is painted th ? name of the guest.
Some of the newest blouses to wear with
handsome black cklrts are mid with ap
plique laca designs on black chiffon , or black
net delicately cllk embroidered In white
more or less elaborately. These new tissues
for very elegant waists will probably dc
much to dethrone other soft falling textiles
which have so long prevailed.
The fancy of adorning the neck and shoul
ders with all sorts and conditions of fralse * ,
ruches , collarettes , yokes and historically
named contrivances cf lace , mousselalne dc
sole , fur , velvet , and gimp , has developed
possibilities never dreamed ot when the mod-
ttt little folded neck-band first mada Its ap
pearance , and which has now evolved Into a
: ontplcuous dainty of the toilet , a complete
Inscription of whltfh would prove a failure.
Twc-button cutaway coats of rough cheviot
nado with a deeply notched collar and me
dium-sized melon sleeves , are neat , Inex
pensive wraps for evcry-day wear. The
IrontB slope away below the buttons , dlsclox-
ng the vest or full blouse beneath. The
jack Is seamless , but the sides are closely
Uted with two side forms. The sleeves ar ;
sufllclently large to be slipped on and off
above' the dress sleeve with can. The
> ocl ( ts have crescent-shaped flits neatly
tltclietl , and the buttons are large and
stoowy.
Perhaps the most graceful and elegant of
all the winter models In fur wraps Is the
style called the Rejane pelerine , a cap.
pointed slightly In the back , shorter on the
ihouldert1. fringed with sable or mink tails
at tlis edge , and completed In front by stole
ends that reach nearly to the skirt-hem , and
also fringed to match the * cape. U Is lined
with brocade and has a 'high vase-shaped
collar. This wrap Is also made ot Nljnl
ur , salskln , Corslcan fox , castor beaver ,
and skunk , called also Alaska sable.
Feminine \otfH ,
Ex-Governor Flower and his niece , Mr * .
2mma G'rtrude Keep Halsey , have endowed
five additional be4s In the Flower hospital at
5,000 each.
ithcda Broughton , the English novelist , la
a lover of rosei , and her llttlo old house In a
Ittla old street In Oxford hau a walled gar
den overrun with ros ? bushes and latticed
Ines.
It Is said that Sarah Grand has taken to
( cycling , A caustic critic observes that If
he had adopted that or any other healthy
orm of exerclsj earlier tha public might
ave be.n spared "The Heavenly Twins. "
Cafes toe womep are obtaining a decided
ogue In New Yerlc. Men uro admitted , but
nly when accompanied by women. Tea U
ho favorite b.verage , but any desired drink
lay be had even to the manly cocktail.
Isabel Hapgood , the translator of
Tolstoi' * works , mastered the Intricacies of
the Russian language- with the nuisance of
a testament and a dictionary. Tolotol con-
pld'rs her the most efficient of those who
have translated hi ? book *
Miss Margaret Pollock Sherwood , Instructor
In rhetoric nnd English literature at Wells-
ley college , \a \ now- known to be the author
ot the original little book , "An Experiment
In Altruism , " which has Just reached Its
third edition.
The new attorney general's wife , Mrs.
Harmon , has a reputation not only ns a
bright woman and a clever conversationalist ,
but as a remarkable housekeeper. Stu as
cribes all her success In this line to the fact
that she tries to make her servants' quarters
cheerful and their lives agrceible.
Some one with n taste for figures has no
ticed the fact that Mlsj Braddon , the novel
ist , hay , In the thirty-three yearn since ho
began to write , produced Just sixty romances.
Each of them Is In three volumes , making
ISO In all. She has , therefore , nmde copy
enough for six printed pages on each day In
all these years.
Lady Augusta Gregory has been tolling i
number cf stories about Klnglakc , and torn
ot them are amusing. The author o
"Eothcn" was afflicted with gout , and he hai
a fancy to try a lady doctor , and wrote ti
ono to ask If gout was beyond her scpc
She replied : "D.'ar Sir : Gout ls not boyom
my scope , 'but men are. " '
The methods employes ! by the average
novelist to obtain material for a story ol
the lower quarters must fill the denizens ol
those quarters with Ironical mirth , Mrs ,
Humphrey Ward , who Is hard at work upon
her new novel , which will deal once more
with the "social problem , " has "been paying
a visit to Stepney and Mile End , " with n
view of obtaining local color.
Ada Rehan Is not the only member of her
family who Is cngjgc'l In theatrical work
Not long ago there was a reunion of the
Crchans as Miss Relmn's real name Is In
Philadelphia , There were Mrs. Kate Byron
nnd Mrs. Hattlo Ruswll , Miss Rchan's sisters -
ters , and her nephew , Arthur Russell , as well
as the distinguished lady herself. All four
were acting In different companies.
1'rlncess Christian , the professional royal
philanthropist of England , has been Inter
rupted In her work of opening bazaars nnd
encouraging charitable enterprises by the
ordering of her eon , Prince Christian Victor ,
to Ashantco. The young prince's regiment
Is the Fourth King's Royal Rifles. Ills
mother's pleadings were In vain , however ,
and the young man goes with his regiment.
Comparatively few women have done
much work In the line of mural decoration.
Ono who has attained distinction In this line
Is Mrs. Anna L-ea Merrill , an English woman ,
who Is In much demand as n church decora
tor. She has been making experiments In n
new method of mural painting with the aid
of metallic oxides and soluble silicates , and
has successfully decorated In this way a
church at Chllworth , England.
Miss Julia Stevenson , the daughter of the
vice president , who wllj make her debut this
winter with her sister Lctttla , Is described
as a distinct brunette , with wavy dark hair
and hazel eyes , possessing a charming
piquancy of manner. Miss Lctltla , the
younger , Is the oppos'te of her sister both In
appearance and characteristics. Her com
plexion Is fair , and her hair Is a golden
brown that waves gracefully over the brow
and Is caught in a soft cell at the back of
the neck.
Mrs. Frances Hodgson Burnett said some
clever things In reply to a toast nt a din
ner given to her by the new Vagabond club
of London. "I feel , " said she In the course
of h r remarks , "that there Is a possibility
a grave possibility of your saying that this
method of stating the case Is feminine and
Illogical. It Is ; that Is why I said It. I have
not the slightest objection to being cither
Illogical or feminine. To be either is amusing
and Interesting in moment.3 cf idle leisure. "
An English paper says : "The many ad
mirers of the American Sappho , Mrs. Louise
Chandler Moulton , will learn with rcgr t
tl.at she Is returning to Boston. Few
wcmcn of any nationality have had so many
famous and lasting friendships with distin
guished writers of both sexes as this be
guiling poetess. Her calibrated 'golden
voice' and genial manners have attracted
her literary confreres of both hemispheres
and her warm-hc < irtd sympathy and loyal
friendship have kept them constant and
urwaverlng In their devotion. "
Newark has a cooking school conducted
by two young women of high social posi
tion. They are the daughters of the late
St phsn Preston , who at the time of his
rioath was acting as the representative of
Haytl to the United States , but In previous
years he represented that country In Paris.
U'hen Mr. Preston dl.d It was found that
he left no property. The young women
now , on the advice of Mrs. John Sherwood ,
have taken this step to support themselves
and their mother. Thsy have sent out a
circular which bears the names of a score
of New York and Washington matrons who
patronize the plan.
Miss Mary II. Kingsley , the niece of
Canon Kingsley , who has won such renown
by her African travels , descrlb s her ex
periences as a "lion" very amusingly : "I
v.os limping about London In 1S94 quite
quietly , " she says , "and I was never more
astonished than on reaching Liverpool this
time to be assailed by a rampant reporter !
Oh , you can't think what Its been ! There
were the ladles in Liverpool inviting mete
to dine with l\\m when I hadn't a dress
fit to be seen and the letters ! All sorts
of people take this opportunity to ask all
sorts of questions , and old sailors who may
have captured n coaster In their youth , and
are now completely 'ntlred , ' want to know
full particulars of the condition of the west
of Africa. And then the journalists ! Some
have conducted the Interview with the serv
ant at th : . door. "What does the wear ? "
I heardone of these- gentlemen asking.
'Oh , nothing In particular ! ' cald the maid. "
Whereupon Miss Kingsley decided to bo
interview d personally.
0JI social
occpkSions.
You cannot go
Uo 1he opcro >
[ without i
zs Whiff of
PUJWEAZ1LEA
THE FASHIONABLE PERFUME.
Flowery , refreshing , delicate
And i&srinjf. o
For s&le by druggist's only.
IMPERIAL CRC'WN PERFUMERY CO ,
SAiriT LOUIb.
MEYER BROTHERS DRUG CO..AGEHT5
* " * BELU5\Two \
/WEDDIMG / new
onOn" \PEACHBUOW.j \ odors.
Be Sure
It's Pure
You don't want to eat adulterated
buckwheat or buckwheat that isn't
buckwheat at all.
Wright's '
BuckWheat -
Wheat
is an honest product. Nothing but
plain buckwheat of the very best kind.
At Your Dealers.
Kvery Mpmtali will quickly
from tlio skin and the complexion will
b'H-onu' nbsolutoly lu-rfect ami clear im
crystal by the use of
Mttie. M. Yale's
World-Famous
Complexion
Remedies
At 4 * j\in or use Mmc. M. Ynlo Is cnllcsl the
motl lifnulirul unman llvinp , Bli ilor * not
lO'ik mole thnn 18. nml mrmMcii nn tiniiel more
tli.in n lleunnan. . Her licnuty lina rntlnly
IH-PII rullUnteil nml hfr youth f > rtreil by the
uio of tlif c remedies.
.Mini * . VAIiK'N Aliiiiniil lllo Noii Cri-uni
Ki'dneH ccmrse porcn , kfrpi the skin smooth
niul iii-rfect. $1.00 | ior Jar.
Mini * . VAI.K'S SI ; I ii Komi
HiMOVlS WlUN'Kl.nS nnd nil trnce of nco.
HcMore * unit | > rrvr\ youth. Jl.to nml 13.00
Jiu l\\o sizes.
Mm ? . YAl.K'.S Slt > Hiil I.otlnil
i n stutu cum : ron I'IMI-LUS. n.oo
tier liottle.
MintVAMVS Hitrolnl Ointment
A duro cure for Illnckhcnils. $1.00 per Jar.
MIIIP. YAI.H'S Mole .t Wurt Kvtruetur.
Itenunes Warts ntul Moles In n tew npi'Uca-
tlonn $3.00 per bottle.
Mini * . YAl.K'.S llllMl Kooil
Di'volops n perfect Kvck nml Dual ! It ore-
nlrs plumpness nml llrmncnti. Jl.OO nml H.OO
per Jar tv\o sizes.
. Mini.YAl.K'.S Complexion Illi-noh
OtmranteeJ lo remove snllrwness , moth
patches Hlul nil Fkln blemishes. It KlveH n.
rmturnl complexion of m.irvtloui purity nnd
bounty. $2.00 per bottle.
Mine. YAM'VS llhlr Tonlo
The Mist unU only dlscu\ciy In the hletory
of chemistry known to turn irrny hair bnclt
In lit natural color \\lthcnit il > o. It stops
hair falllnn In 24 hours un.l creates a lux
uriant growth. It Is n perfect hair dressing
for Keneral line nnd n irunmnteed cuie for nil
manner of scalp dlsc.i e pure nnd wonderful.
$1.00 per bottle ; C for J5.00.
Mine. YAI.C'S KIKIr tit lloiuity
Cultluitcu natuinl tovy cheeks. A wonderful
kkln tonic. $1.00 per bottle. "
Mini- . YAl.r.'H Illooil Tonle
rurlfles the' blood nnd cures liver nnd kidney
complaints. tl.UO per bottle ; C for $3.00.
Mine. YAI.K'S L3j vlirtnr mill Kyelnnh
t ! c < > or
Jl.OO per Jar.
.time. YAI.K'S Ilnnil AVlilteiicr
*
$1.00 per bottle.
Mine. YAI.H'S Celeliriied Lit Froclcltl
The only Freckle Cure. $1.00 per bottle.
Mine. YAl.K'.S FitmoiiM Cirent Scott
The only permanent cure of superfluous hair.
Takes but live minutes to remove hairs ,
roots nnd nil ; doen not hurt. $5.00.
MiniYAI.K'S FniK Cum
A dl-tlnct remedy nnd nexer fnlllnn cure for
fem.ilocaknc5s In nny foim. The best
tonic e\er compounded for toning up n wcnk
sjstem. $1.00 per bottle ; 6 for $3.00.
Write for Mine. YALH'S "Guide to
llenuty. "
Send 10 cents to pay posture.
All driiRKlftB nnd dealers sell these remedies.
Itcttaro of counterfeits.
X. H. I will pay $3.000.00 for the arrest nn < l
conviction cf nny one counterfeiting my rem-
cd'fs. ' ( Sinned ) Mme. M. YALE.
CUKES QUICKER
ANY OTHER REMEDY.
Tarrant's Hxtract of Cu-
bebn nml Capnllia Is a safe ,
certain nnd quick cure for
Ronorrlica nnd ne t nnd Is
nn old- tried remedy for all
diseases nf the urinary or
gans. Combining In a highly
concent ui Ifil form the me-
illrlnnllrtuos of cubrlia
and capnlbn. Iti portnbla
fdiniie. freedom from tuata
nnd rpeody notion ( curing In
lets time than nny other
preparation ) make It Tim
MOST VAMJAHLi : KNOWN
IU5MEDY. To prevent fraud.
see that \fry packn e- tins ii red BtiJp ncruHtt the
face of label , with thn KlKtiuturo of Tarrant &
Co. . N. Y. , upon It. I'niCC , 11.09. Bold by all
Patronize
Home Industries
Ily ptireliuHlnjr urooiln ninilc at the /ol.
lowlni ? NobrimUu fncturli-H. If you
en ii not Hint AT hat you want communi
cate Tvlth tnc lu'uiiufiictururn an to
nluit iloalvm Immllu tliclr
HAGS. IIUIthAl' AND TWINE.
Manufacturers of ull kinds of cotton and bur
lap Lai ; . cotton Hour cnckg und twlno a tpec-
lally. C14-CIC-618 S. lllh B u
OMAHA HUE WIN lASS' l
Car load shipments made In our own rcfrlg-
finfpr rnis. nine Hlbbon. Elite Kxnort , Vienna
Export , and Family Uxport , delivered to all parti
bf city ,
CAHHIAGISS AND WAOONH.
DKUMA10ND CARRIAGE CO.
put lubber tires and ball. tearing axles on their
nun mnko vehicle ) , and fell a top buk'zy fur
HO 00 licMdiu. Wilte them. Uth and Ilnrney.
COFF1SI2 , SPICKS , IIAICING I'OWDER.
"
CONSOLIDATED COI'TEE CO
Coffee UoaeterB , Kplco Grinders. Manufacturer !
Herman linking I'otvder nnd Herman Dry lion
Ventt , 1114 nnd 1418 Homey HI. , Omaha , Neb.
S. F. OILMAN.
Manufacturer of Gold Medal Flour.
C. E. Ulack. Manaicer. Omaha ,
IHON WOIIKS.
INDUSTKIALll IRON WOKS
Manufuclurlnif and lU-palilng of all kind ! or
machinery , engines , jmrnpi. elevators , printing
pifBte * . hangers , .haftlns and couplings 1 < 96 and
HOS Howard Ht. . Omnha.
1 > AXTON& VIEKLIN'n IRON W'KKS
Manufacturers of Architectural Iron Work ,
General Foundry , Machine and Hluckimllh Work.
Unglneers and Contractor * for I'lru 1'roof
Ilulldln . Oinre und works : U , I' , Ily. and
Bo. nth street Omn'in. _
Ni i' nun
, rHICTTELE.
UKAi'U.
rhe only pet feet protection to property , Examlnt
It , licit tlilnr on earth , lleduccs Insurance
rates. 1304 Douglas Bt.
KATX.NEVINS CO.
Manufacturers cf Urn's and Floys' Clothlnr.
I'unls , Shirts nndO\erulli. _ 2j2-21t H. Uth 81.
SHIHT FACTOUICS.
J. H.EVANS-NEIWASKA SHlltT
COMPANY.
Uuliulve custom chlrt tallcXs. iiu
