Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, November 03, 1895, Editorial Sheet, Page 11, Image 12

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    - - = - = = - - : . - - - 'J'11J 'tAJTA D.A1T..Y' . BEE : Al' nAY , Xvg ) [ nglt ' a , 7 ( Jti/ ! : ' 11
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. ! ) \\1.@J1ill \ ffiWi-L ! cl1/1i1@IFJ / ! Iii !
I { 1 r Jfill WOMAN'S DOMAIN. 1
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_ _ WI 'rgll 1'nOl' ' ' s ! , j
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BII'llut't'1 ; \ ' rl"1"11I nllli ( h'I'II' ' "I-
l'It't ) ' In Colors nllli 11s. t'rhtb
NI\V 'lOftl\ , Oct ! , O.-It : ! II mostly lu matters -
ters or detail ! that ! fashion II JUt now occupying ' ,
I'lng ) herBclr , malll features ( ot early Winl r
costumes / 1IlrtCtll1g ! In no great degree ! : from
\ho.\ \ \ or "utumll clolllr Sleeves continue to
drop , until how the chief ( btdge may he lalll
to ho al the elbow \ ; and \.Irla \ are still very I
w1do al1l1 ns much godetcd liS ever , only nd . i
mltllng sometlmo , In very dressy Inslau'os , I
'p.r--'of an elaborate and fantastic decorutlon.
This decoration may IJo tither wide or narrow ,
n root roll or fur , n bias band : thaI reaches 10
the knee anti IJerhap there richly outlined In
Vandyke , or else In the sllallo or appllancl's
Inn grogeon9 tnr dtscription . 11 may also
' 1llh good ' I- taste i : be I ; --I hr i ' iii - ' entirely : " different ' ,
hue end texture tram thin gown , but con-
nionly matches the revers or the bodice and
long cults of the slc\'e3.
A trll11me,1 , deelgn for n silk skirt ; 18 or ex-
l'eel1ln sll11pllclt , and yet Is most elTectlv
'rho skirt Is olctc'l ' and , Rout , and hack laid
In live wide tuck 01 the huttOlll , sides r-
malnlllg Illalll ; and when fashioned In this
way ono or the new changeable silks Is com
manly el1lplo'ed "
A skirt for ) louse use Is made In sort silks
end lathes , and , Is gathered primly 01 the
wnlsl all around In the good , olol-tushlone,1 ,
t way our granl1mothcr\ liked This gathered
model Is aha seen In an occasional IIIIlortell (
toilet for dressy orcaslon ; but sol11ehow II
lIeems there out or place , the spreullng : splendor .
liar or the golet article having spoiled us
for Its slink 1Iainness , ,
\IA1tm : ANTOl i I'T'm : Till } RAGE.
For evening wear many bodices are hegln-
nlug 10 be polnllll lit the bottom after the
Marie : \ Antoinette node
The evening toilet Illcturell % Illustrates this
within piquant effect and the design will lJe
found becoming 10 any figure not too slender ,
In the original the gown was III one or
thin splendid Louis XIV , silks that now flood
the markel-arul are : . possllJle only to the
rich and I1Ilghty ; while with a pink stripe ,
UI' which clambers little rosebuds , a gllslen.
Ing moire ware covering the whole The
leeve8 arlll V front or the bodice , which laces
up the back , are or white moussellnu do sole.
Plllk and white IItephnnJlIs , interspersed
with knots or yellow antique IaN , trim the
bottoms of Ihese ) , and shape IlIlo a becoming
bertha al the neck
And here n word 10 the uninitiated .
It may be useful 10 know that Marie Antoinette -
tolnetto llls ! Pompallollr silks , so commonly -
monly so mistaken , arc not hy any means the
ome ,
'fho Pompal1our article , the silk specialist
will tell you , must ho always / hovered In
y
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A DINNER GOWN
sprays or bouquets , though It may be either
brocaded In the shadowy fashion of chine'
slll "
silk.Ou
011 the other hand , lo lJe genlllne , II Marie
Antoinette must be primarily striped , slender
lines , In palo tones , on It plnlt blue or white
grounll. The flowering comes In In the shapE !
of garlands twisted Into wreaths all over the
striped weave and tied with love knots , or
else clambering up Iho stripes ma-\lolo \ fash-
lee
Again , there may bo small flowers scatterell
over the striped background , or prim bull
with stiff stein and , leaves , or else tiny light
bouquets at mlnuto roses.
lint nved It all will run that magic ribbon ,
thaI foolish ribbon In lo\'c.kllots or curling
waves , thaI speaks more than anything else
of long dead Marie Antoinette and that , prr-
haps , was ana of the telltales 10 bring her
little neck to the guillotine.
Who knows ? H1bbons have always , been
considered the symbol ot extravagance and
light henrll'llness-nml poor Marie even tied
then In the handles ot her milk palls or
around the necks of ( her sheep \ when shl' chose
to play fennlere
11111 10 cOllllllue
'filE NI\V I CO.\TS.
In the coat , with the big fur collar ,
pictured , 19 demonstrated the present all
embracing fancy for short tails and loose
'lffects Pale brown Kercy ! cloth , uIIII natural
raccoon fur , are the materials employed : and ,
na with all \ the jackets on this order , the
lower portion Is pleated , shirt method , to a
yoko.
Almost no Slllig coats arc worn now , these
abort blouse.llko affairs havingg taken their
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A Noym.TY IN uns.
Place enUrel ) ' , They are not always made or
cloth , but have sometimes the sleeves and
yoke In one material and the skirt portion In
another ,
Ono splelllll visiting affair , so arrange ,
was a llandnltz confection , which ! hal the
yoke and sleeves In emerald 1 green velvet ,
Perforated In large squares over white satin ,
sad a skirt or broadtail
This though hanging at the back In four
turning pleats gave 110 lmpreesion of
clumsiness ; indeed , It was found 10 lJe lJe.
coming 10 both a alight and well rounded
figure ,
The peruratlons of the velvet were edged 'I '
and threaded < < over with jet until this portion
of the garment bristled like IIrmor The
effect of the whole was superb ,
A SMART STIIImT GOWN ,
The natty street gown shown with the
110ublc-breasted front and ! easy IInel pictures
the revived interest In black lIereules braid
that has suddenly IIILzetl upon the modish
world ,
In this instance the gown Ihlrr I. Zibellne
cloth , which seems conventional enough
to support the stout braid , but It has been
found on velvet 01 well , and not uncommonly -
monly will \ be seen a stylish \ English \ hat
I L 111:11 : olHI rOl lt,1 with It , ( 'ompand wltb
other ! trimmings IIrrculcs : braid l' quite in-
cxpeneiv'e I , mll , , where a stout wool walking
fr0'k ! : 18 In ClJntcmplatlon , It Is well 10 keep
II In mind , Black 18 always need on color
and n bull ot elehoraleness can be made by
CCllnbllllnG : different , wbllhe . , ,
It 11 n tale ! ' f tunny colon list ( tells the
back . tUrned bOlllc with the square hal and
long veil III design II seems simple and
Camillar enouh-eXcelll ! ; that the backs or
bodlces were never as much trimmed ns
now , but II 19 realized In stuffs never known
to camhi before , and whIch now come ib-
gethp.r with unchllllcned ! license.
This bodice proper Is In black serge , as
rough ! ; and heavy aA a young hlanket The
yoke , collar anti double \ epaulettes are : " or
white velvet ; the long cuff buttons of the
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FOIl STREET WEAR ,
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sleeves sapphire blue silk over which Is
gathered black silk mu@lI.n Then with this
there are bands of rich yellow lael'-one al
the front shaped Into II pleat and fasteued
down wHh diamond and sapphire buttons
and II belt and collar ot black lI10usellne de
sole
sale.Was
Was ever a garment mallller !
A PERSISTENT AltTIST
Moreover , II IR strongly suggestive or an
Idea on the dressmallCr's part to use UII old
scraps at stuff , so II calls 10 mind a good
story tolll of the laIc M. Worth on the same
subject
The lady In hand was an American , more
limetl for her dollars limn good looks , antI
Worth was going through the agony or mak-
Ing her beaulllul Suddenly ho grabbed up a
scrap or silk rrolll the floor , an unrolled bow ,
and , twisting II ! into knot ] , slapped , II 01 the
lad.1 JlI1ee ( ,
, "There , " he said , "Ihal bow Is magnificent
'tI1 the Im'I" I will make It the tashlon "
"I won'l lave H ; ' slid the lady , whereupon
'orth turned flue silk Into a different shaped
knot and pinned H to her bust with the same
speech , "I will makl' il the tashlon "
Again this waR UnlJleaslng to the dame , so
after one how after another hall danced oil
over her body with tin l'.tmcresull the great
general ot clothes put the pIece or sIlk In his
pocket and heat a vanquished relreat
Rut here beheld the strategy accompllshel1
when the ) bill came home. Along with the
fine gown came a bandeau and knot for the
hair , marked 30 francs , and Inscribed II'lth
these words : "I shallo mak these bandeaux
the fashion : '
It was the f'3me bow NINA FITCH ,
I.IUXS CUHSr-HI':1I : 11nUH.S ,
ruU'urllh'j : tlnldeus \110 \I't' Not
-'Irllle IIf the blotrlttnhl tlonnralut.
Miss , Julia : WoO < 1rutt of Newark , N. J" , and
Miss : \largarel"G " , Liner of San Francisco ,
who have been visiting al the Mesa : Grande In
this relates the San Diego Union ,
county ,
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will lake : home trophies ot their Sltlll and
prowess , which certainly will cause them to
lJe looked upon as young ladles or extraordinary
.lInary courage. The trophies would \ be valued
ned by hunters In any part of the world , for
they are no less than the beautiful pelts
of big mountain lions bagged the other day
by a patty composed cr Miss LIner , Miss : \
Woodruff , J. M , Stone and D.1 : , Knowles ,
Mounted on good horses and accompanied by
\11' : Stano's two dogs , the party started down
mack canyon at 6 o'clock a week ago
last Sunday morning all a hunt for lions
The big cats had been frequently seen In that
part at the country by the ranchers around
Mesa Grande , whose repeated losses In the
way of calves and young 001111 were enough
10 discourage them allogetho : Tin lions
were safe so long as 110 organized party or
hunters raided Black canyon , which Is a
dark / and rorblllding stretch or undergrowth
and trees , with just enough or side hill 10
afford a good retreat ; for mountain lions , Inaccessible -
accessible as the place naturally Is 10 then ,
the muscular lions had often dragged their
prov In their dens with apparent ease
Miss Liner and Miss Woodruff each had a
six-shooter buckled 10 her waist and pre-
sl'nleIt very formldnble- appearance The
two men rode In advance , and after covering
about two miles the haunts or the lions were
announced by the barking or the dogs far In
advance ' , . . . . the party rushed forward In
those 10 see a lion 'Pring " into the branches
of 11 tree on the hillside , Mr Stone rode I
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under Ihe tree , and , taking II steady aim ,
sent a ball Iron a Wlnchestor Into the 1I0n'R
lungs With a IJl0otl.cunll1ng scream , the
wild animal sprang from the tree to the
ground \ , Its tawny neck and sides bristling
wllh rage and fright , It bOllllllell along
with IIIlghly leaps , but the dogs were so
ClOl1O Ihul the lion stopped to light , Its
chest wound , however , was so weakening
that the dogs soon valllulshed the big brule
Less than 100 yards rrolll the spot where
Ihe first lien was klllClI Mr Knowles saw
another lien crouched among the branches era
a tree. A rIfle ball closed Its flaming eyes
and tUlllbled its lithe body ellll over end to
the rounll , Then tying their horses the
party proceeded on foot after the dogs
through the heavy brush and over rocks
coming 01 lasb In the bottom of the canyon ,
where a lion hall been treed lJy the dogs.
The nnlmal presented a majestic appearance
as ho stood upright on a limb or the tree ,
his claws distended and sunk deep into the
bark , Ills long tall waved back nllll forth ,
and ns he faced his enemies his long teeth
were ulLsclosed and a deep growl came from
his : throat Whllo the lion stood thus , ape
par\ntl ready- and willing 10 begin the fight ,
the two young ladies advanced and stood beneath -
nealh the Ir Je , Then Mr , Stooo raised his
rifle , took QuIck ellll and IIred. The big lion
fell 10 the ground lifeless , lie and his ) IIIntes
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nil measured over six feet In length and ,
created soma excitement when the party returned - :
turned \ to Mesa Grande ,
IHS , " 1I.\HXln' - - - " 1I.\nX\'ro ,
\'Ut' ul the \'urlll' HIth.t alas nud
Jlt'r Interestiiu ; Ihl..ll1l1"I ,
Much aJ [ current interest now centers In
Barney Barnato , the multl.mlllionalro magnate -
nate or the South African IIIlnlng region , a
macro tender sellillne/il / will be entertained
toward his beautiful wlCe and their two interesting .
terestlng cltldren prlmroso and Jack
Mrs , Barnato was born In Arrlca , anti b'ha
Is both beautiful \ and charming A devoted
wife allll mother , she nevertheless finds time
for such FOclal obligations RI her position In
lire demands , and to those who come within
her favor she Is a 01'3$1 lovable woman. The
fabulous wealth of her husband puts within
her reach every luxury- that even the fem-
1r.lnB mind ' can conceive , and she wears the
distinction whIch such wealth confers with
an unostentatious grace ' that makes her a
queen among women It Is nol surprising ,
thererore , that her hu&banescapes from the
exciting turmoil or mone.maklng whenever
the opportunUy presents Itelf , Or thaI he Is
happiest and appears al his best when , ha-
Ing cast settle the cares of business , he enters
upon the pleasant enjoyment of home life \ I
witch he shares with his wire and children ,
These favored parents are as blessed In
their falllily surroundings 8. they are opu
lent , In material interests . They Have twq
lovely children , a 3.'ear.old daughter named
"I.'ab Primrose , " and a baby aged ! : : years ,
ebrllitene 1.ad18 Hotebery , " but ' 1111\.1)8
called "Jack , " Primrose I. a pretty ) ld
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and a great ! ; : favorite , The first gold IlIln : " her
for't'l1atc. ' falhrr owned , and thC one from
which was taken , partly hy his own hands ,
the foundation or his colossal fortune , was
called , "The I'rlmroee" In honor or that pit
hi African soil thc gIrl baby wag named , IIIllI
her joyous prattle glvas :18 : notch plessute I
to her ather's heart now as thc Jingle or 1
the gohl did when the product or time IIIlne I
mlntell In coin or the realm was then dropped
into hIs coffers ,
l'X ! < inIo's ) IWllfawn. IOWS : ,
Hrllllli C..hlll' . IIf Crt'nlll Sallh , .lth
1'.1111 . 1.111. I-'llIIllIt'lIll ,
The bridal gown or Hiss Consuela Vendee
hilt nl marriage 10 the ! luke , or Marlborough !
next Tuesday , Is a satin of pecullal' creamy
I lint n trifle deeper than Ivory , and mateh-
bIg ; perfectly , the rare point lace 1I0unclng , I
twelve Inches deep , with which II Is trimmed ,
This combines the patterns 101011'11 ns point
Angleterre and point apllllque , being made
especially from designs , suggested by 11'3.
Vnndtrblll herscH The lace ! was mnllc In
Brussels ,
Without cutting , this 1I00\11c < ! Is arranged
III four horizontal rows across the front and I
sides 01 the skirt , entirely concealing ! the
calln , mid crossing the flounces diagonally I
on the right side ! Is n long spray of orange
IJl0ssoms : The front of the corsage Is draped
wilil chiffon , gathered very lull from neck
to belt , and covered In turn with a deep tall
of the lace gathered Into a high slack collar
covered with Ihe slime rare lace and hang-
Ing ! thence unconfined 10 the satin girdle
Triple re\'ers of the lace project over the '
enorlllously full sleeves , which are pleated ,
into the armhole , and cut In gauntlet style
below the elbow without trllllllling at any
sarI. A spray of orange blossoms Is fastened
on the left shoulder
The most distinctive feature of the gown ,
however , Is the court train , five yards In
length ! , which Is fastened to Iho shoulders
SOIllO Il\'e Inches below the neck band This ,
which falls In double box pleats frolll top to
buttons , Is bordered down both sllles and
across the lower edge with a Iwo.lnch wide
embroidery oC pearls and silver , representing
' rose leans tied together III Intervals with a
true lover'f knol. The veil to be worn with
this grown Is or exceedingly I lIne Brussels net
nwl will be tastened with a half coronet of
orange III OSlO illS ,
Withoul the immdnse court trait the bridal
gown ; would appear extremely simple The
train Is the regulation lengl prescribed for
the presentation III the court of SI James ,
and the gown will he one In which the future
, luchess of Marlborough will be presented to
the lJueen
\'alHlcrbllt's gown Is ot clel blue satin ,
or richest weave The full gored skirt Is cut
perhaps four Inches longer than walltlng
length In the back , and Is perfectly plaIn , '
save for a Ihree.lnch wide border or Russian
sable fur The bodice Is fashioned with :1 :
lIght-lIU1ng coat - acanmed back , terminating In
Iwo full box pleats reachIng 10 some sIx
Inches below time waist line , separating to
show Iwo narrow bands of sable. Loose ,
straight jacket aides of. cream applique lace
open over a bouffant vest at while mousseline I 1
do solo , embroidered In a small vine pattern , I
with oval shaped pearls , sea green In hue , the
leaves joined together with a delicate tracery
or 511\'er.
Appliques of thus embroidery finish the lop
oC the full elbow sleeves , whIch are finished
at the lower edge with It full twist 'at ap- ,
pllque laec Outlining lIch armhole Is a nar- :
row band of sable , whIch terminates In two I
tails of the same fur , pendant from each
II
shoulder over l'jlO lace jackel The small
toque 10 match this costume Is of the soma
materials , the sable being arranged In the
form of wings , placed on the sille
The brhlesmaltls' gowns are ot pure white
satin , completed with broad : I girdles and lashes
or del bile satin rIbbon , almost a duplicate In
color of that used In Mrs , VnnderlJllt's gown
Although the exact model utter which they
will be Ill'slKnetl has not yet bzeu settled , II
has been decided , that the skIrts will be short
and quite plain , and I\lal chiffon will be used
for lrlnuning '
Each brlllesmaid will wear also a. large haler
or royal blue velvet , broad hrlmmE' I , antI with
a full gathered hell shaped crown , encircled
with del blue satin ribbon , finished on the
right silo with a chiffon rosette the same
COIOI' Trl.mmln . the loll sldo arc six large
palo blue ostrich lips and a white aigrette ,
and where the IJrlm turns sharllly up In Ihe
back there Is ! fastened full bows or the blue
satin ribbon.
ThaI portion of the lingerie designated as'
the "brhlnl sull" Is chiefly remarkable for
the exquisite qua Ill ) ' of the linen cambric
emllloyI
The pelgnoir , Marie Antoinette In design ,
Is tucked back and front to the waist line
and girdled with white satin ribbon The
broad , roiling collar and revere , the latter
railing over the full sll'l'ves and eloping 10
the waist line , are hand embroidered In n
rosebud desIgn and edged with tour.lnch1110 I
Valenclennl's lace. A cuff at emlJrolllered
rosebuds finished with a deep all of lace ,
finishes the sleeve ,
The other garments or Ihls particular suit
are made to match Valenciennes lace and
hand embroidery only being used for trim-
ming
The bridal corset Is made or white satin ,
brocaded wllh tiny white carnations and
trimmed al flue upper edge with a deep ;
pointed border of Valenciennes lace , The
clasps , the large hook and the buckles on the
attached slacking supporters are all of solid
gold.Each
Each of the several dozens of garment
included In the outfit of lingerie Is marked
wllh the name "Consuela" III raised ens-
broidery .
" 'O I\X'S IXU/I'EU MISSION ,
III'fI.'r tu Cr..nlr n load house ' 1'IInn
tu N1".1 In Any Other nd"n"ur ,
Certainly there Is wisdom for two young
people who have sworn 10 love each other , no
matter whether there Is poverty or wealth ,
no matter whether the days are bright or' '
dark , to Have 11 bomo of their own , writes 'I '
Ruth Asbmore , discussing "Tho Mistress of
the Small lIouse" In November Lallies' Home
Journal , Boarding house life Is bad for
women , and I do not believe that any man
has ever really enjoyed It , God created
women to nuke bomea-to make homes for
the men they love anlt for the children whom
God will \ send to them , And a borne must be
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start ' / d I lit is 1J ! 1I'III"1i : , l' t' ' s II I. c I r. I
1)o 1 nJl waft ter II bug ht ' uc ! aid many . 1'\
ants hut IIIlke , lmnpplness ' txst mil It llute I
1I'llse , wi'h oue mold ad a 21tlll. It Call be
done , I know It can , : ! h1'1ot shrug y , lIr
shoull1ers and , say you tjq , lot like lIeu e'
\\ark Work Is I only IIlsAci"i flol "hcn I' Is
bsdi ) ' lion' , and jroutra lIug the sh r
and Glass to dusting ! lie brL 'ahue and ,
bU1I1I1 ( 11111\ cake ( 'verythrl1 flay hi Ihlnl.ly .
done aM well done Jf ( yon go about It
In thud right \\8) ' and With the rrgnt
apirll You will have ' to I , lH"conshl'rJle anti
coat will have 10 11& patlt'ul. You will cer-
talnly make mistakES , bu each mistake I" one
stets toward ! success . OUI'Ilell ) 'oltn' 1C whit
I ip' : : ucd . consideration n.1\Iten'letM' ( a : you : \
will need to make calls upon ' ! them ( often atilt I
often. ThEn you will gain / PO much , You
will be the happy housowle ! , the lady 01 th
house , She ha.1 the right ! 10 dispense hI' :
pllallty and good will ; lie ( mist tebA , not only
or the house , but or tilt , heart or your hue
band ! , because : for him 1 ) 'Otl have cr alecl a
Iionie Amid ! that Is a womanly work - a
better monument lo you , my dear I ! : , than the
Ilalntlng or a wonderful picture , the wrhiliK
or n grelll book or the I'omposln or a line
pace : ot huleic Prom out 0 hOlllo all vlrlurn
and all great works may COllie No man ever
mJlo ! a 1I0me lie dots nol know ho\l' 'fh
wOlllnn' brain , heart nllli hands are neres '
sary . allll a hOllle Is such n beautiful thing ,
It means rest , It means peace nllll II means
lo\'e Make > one for your hmbantl and ! let
him find these three great ! ; joys In Its four
"ails.
.t Silt I'l lJ'c VtICI.IIV1191 : \ : .
11'elrtlls : IU ! IUIIIH , \11'1. . I Burr
' nud I. Terror ' " ' .
1"11"11I 1111 I 'I't''rll' tn 1"111' '
"In northern New England 1 I'ecentl' meta
n fat \l'oman , " said a New Yorker to the
New YOlk Sun , "who oughl to ineplre all
victims of adipose ! tlsbue. 1 was drh"lng with
a native when she came along the rend She
was positively enormous and would have
looked ulipleaR3111y big had II mint been
for her pleasant , frank face. She nodded testy
my companion , who retulnetl the ahutat ton
wLth more deference that I hall observed tn
his manner ward any onE else Alel we
hall pzseed her he said thaI she was the
wealhl sl woman 11 the mounlalns"
" ' 1'ou wouldn'l thlnlt so to see the way sh +
\on
works , ' he added , 'ror she doss about as mnu'h
asany Iwo men around ! her ( ' , She has the
biggest and finest farm within t\l'eny : mies )
aid she works II all hes2I Ot course she
has some one ! to help her In huylll 11mI
but chic does her own plowing anti seeding
and can lose more hay thin any lan I ever
saw Fat ? Well , she Is n pretty big \IOmal
She weighs nEarly 300 , but chic Ilon'l mind
that , and II don't interfere wih her gett , mug
arolnd , either You just try walking
with her and SEe I you eau keep up
with her I can't I bought some hay from
I her lust \Ieek , and when I went to get II
silo told mt she would park Il In the wagon
It I would throw It up 10 her.Vell sip
kept me working until I thought my arm :
would break . and the way she Iampell down
thaI hay was a caution , 1 Waf ni I could ,
do to get II out again , II was pacltl1 s hm )
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SHOULDER DECORATIONS.
You saw her walking nosy. Well , that's
what she calls taking a constitutional after
her work She will cover ten miles easy ,
\eI cver mies
" 'Mind you , she has not gal to work , and
Nho 19 not stingy , ellher ler aister Is
traveling all the lme , She goes 10 Europe ,
10 the seashore and ever'where She's away
now. They are both or them well educated
and liberal 10 the poor. No one has to ask
twice 01 thaI house , but tramps have 10 be
mllhty polite Several or them who tried
the other thing with this one round them-
selves out In the road J quick they dldn'l
know what had struck them She says she
works more for the love of It , and when she
has 10 quit she will give lP lvlDg . '
"From Inqll.les that I mad afterward I
learned thaI this woman was a lady In every
sense or the word , well.mannerell , genial , and
a good converl\lonalst , leI marvelous
strength 011 abundant animal spirits Impel -
pel d her to 110 hard work for the pleasure
ot I , "
JuHh111 Sates ,
The popular delft effects are shown now In
brooches and even stick-pins.
Changeable taffetas with borders arc
among the novelties In dress falJrlcs
French plaids , serges and homespun ( male-
rials woven with on Irregular thread are
mach l\sC'll for school dresses
The newest steck collars or plait satin or
fancy plaid or chameleon sik ribbon have a
large butterfly bow at the back
o all the gay and brilliant fanciro or the
autumn , nothing eclipses the petticoat or
gorgeously 1)Iallel taffeta or surah silk
Once more the princess dress Is In ra\'or
Many : \ handsome gowns mire being built In
tills forms . For short women no Style Is lS
effecl\
Thus drooping sleeve , so much the vogue ,
requires but 1 slight Inlerlulng of fiber
chamois 10 give II exactly the desired effect .
Feathers and jet are combined effectively
this fall as :1 : trimming for rlph gowns , In
design the vandyke point Is most In evl-
deuce : " . ' "
Seal and velvet c atgihtse bags arc very
stylish and servlceabl / and so are those made
or lizard and water 'enakOO akin. The latter
'
are beautifully marked ,
beautiuly
Wonderful color mix hires appear open the
new malelassel\ crepohs . The various
grounds are deeply crinkled , and the raised
designs are or the colored silk.
Oharlreuse.gre Ilerty satin gowns male
up with draperies of spangled chiffon arc
among the elegant imported dress toilets for
opera and receplon p'rar ,
PlaIds are every\vhl're. They are shown
In long Scotch coalsl In the latest cheviots
for shopping ' gowns and In all the now school
frocks for children.
Dashing Marie Antoinette hats of black
velvet are conspicuous for their many plumes ,
Occasionally a plaidailk , scarf II allllCIJ 10
increase . the striking effect .
lands or fur will be touch worn this
season , and on gowns of every description
from the most delicate hued house gowns
to the darkest and richest of frocks for out-
.
,
of.door wear
Very handsome changeable erepons are used
for dinner and evenIng dresseR , A stYlish
model Is green , fawn color and oh rose Is
made lP with accessories of spangled green
velvet and ecru lace
WaUeau bows appear again nt the back or
hal.low evening cotages , and never have
ribbon trimmings or very description been
more fashionable than now , A whole piece
or ribbon I easily utilized on bodice and
sleeves.
Amaryllis , a reddish heliotrope color , I
r one of the new shades which promises to
.
.
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have a considerable vogue later In the season
I can he worn by bruneles and blondes
and proves equally becoming 10 each t'pe
Scotch plaillell velvets In various clan patterns -
terns Ire used this season lJy fashionable
milliners on hats for youthful wearers , and
slight accessories ot gay striped or chameleon
velvet are employed for hats and \ bonnets of
black or mOf.green velvet for women of
nearly every , age.
A fashion note of real moment Is the introduction -
Irolluclon of contrasting sleeves Plaids and
brcodes have already made the sleeves 10
bodices of a solid and : neutral color A
brown silk waist has sleeves of rose-pink
chine chile and an emerald green velvet supports - I
effect ports , sleeves or faille In at , faded 1erslan :
Many of the walbt-Ienglh capes of mink ,
seal , otter ; \1 beaver at other seasons , that
fitted so closely over the arms thaI It was
Ilposslble to raise them , have tills fall been
mode over very hanflFomely Into full cqlels
thaI merely cover the shoulders Some are
fOIr.ell ot the parse cape material alone ,
ethers have new alllllons , oC Persian Iamb ,
astrakhan or any .ultall'e fur contrasting with
thaI composting tire colel ,
A pretty coal bollic ! for theater and deml-
dress occasions Is the waist ot a black and
white striped silk gowo I Is made at black
satln.llnlshNI velvet , and the revere are ot
pale blue silt , covered with lovely oM-
tashloned embroidery . The vest Is or creamy
lace over white satin , with a frill of edging
down either sIde , and the bet : Is at pale blue
The back Is plain and closely fitted without
seams and finished with a narrow plaited
lJasqut'
Among the cloaklngs are stilt seal plusher
In six different grades , each grade about
torl-elght Inches wide ; velour de north In
live different grades , this thlrt-tlo inches
wide ; alas plain and plald.racel beaver
clots : , rIch colored kerseys , natty boucle
fabrics , bart , fleecy wool diagonals , French
casslmeres , lIne ladles' cloth In plum color ,
green , olive , gray , tan and black , checked ,
cheviots of English manufacture and fancy
lJakel cloths In various fnC color mixtures
Very full skirts , Basques and puffed sieavea
arc as decidedly . a feature ot the young girl's
wInter fashions as they are oC those for her
elluf , and , It she Is just entering her teens
she can have them nil combine ) In one gown.
The skirts are gored 10 hang III full folds at
the bottom , except for girls under 10 years
of ale , when they are made of straight
breadths plainly hemmed , antI reach just
below hue IOsee . The waists of these gowns
are either cut square In the neck to wear
over a white guhUIJe , made with a yoke ' and ,
bell and collar or plain cloth , silk or velvet ,
or with a plain waist , simply gathered
around the neck and Into the belt ,
i'eulinlmt : ltl's ,
Miss Mary : \ Louise lunle ) of Atlanta Is the
new southern poet
bane : \ , lllelalne Lemaire , the eminent
rench artist , Is a pupil of Chapln ,
Miss Alice King , the English novelist , although -
though blind , Is a fearless horsewoman
The new woman appears :11 : Cripple Creek
In the form or It mining expert
Dr Mabel Spencer at Kansas City has received -
celved time nppoLlmenl \lh'slc1an \ for Riley
county , Ksnsaf
1 Is said that " lxwel Gray" Is the preud-
onym of Mary Gen Tulel , the invalid ,
daughter or a physician who lives In the Isle
of WLghl.
Miss Elizabeth ) Nourse , thc Cincinnati art-
Isl , who has mad such a splendid name , Is
back al her studio In Paris , and has four
paintings In the new ParIS salon ,
Jrs , U S. Grant havlllg purchased the old
EdmunllR house In Washington , recently occupied -
cUlllell by Secretary Oney , has decided to
lake her permanent home in the capital city
Mss Hela Matthews or Arlington . Ind" ,
Ja 1 one.armelwood carver and lolleler ,
leI left arm lJellK disabled all her clever
and work hand Is , accomplshC'll with her right arm
mla Wheeler Wilcox and "Jennie June"
anti II host of other literary women and men
have formed a ramous country club known
al "The Pot Luck club , " 'I'hey lake turns
al the chafing dish , ,
IIS8 Agnes Pitman painted the exquisite
frieze , 68 feet long , which Mrs. Carrie Ioer-
loin has had placed around , the Cincinnati
rom at Atlanta , The design Is or apple
blossoms In graceful sprays thrown on tinted ,
cloudlnKs of excellent atmospheric effects ,
Lady Margaret Scot , the woman champion
got player of England , on the occasion at the
Colswoll competition won the first prIze wih
a score or so for fourteen holes , There were
ten other players , to whom Lady Margarel
conceded starts 10 the extent or as many a8
sixty strokes , '
The author oL "Tales QC the PUDJtub , "
a. l + . . . . . rw _ . . . - . .
Mrs. Flora Anne Steel , Is the wire ot a re-
tred Indian civilian , She has spelt more
than twenty years at her life In India , amid
In order to pursue her studies In folklore has
mastered five of the native dialects
Miss Consuelo Vanderbilt Is quite an ex-
pert neelliewoman II seenis she em u-
IJrolller all her lnen , amid that her work Is
trllly beautlul leI mother , so the story
goes , Is equally skilled , and does exquisite
drawn work-all , In fact , used on the table
at Marble house , Newport t , leI thimble ) Is
a , wonderfuly dainty affnlr or Homan gold
showing a border , studded with dlamonlls ,
: Mrs \ Iwcomb McGee : \ , the daughter ot the
famous 'nshlngton astronomer , Prof. New-
comb , Is the first woman to he elected a
Fellow or the American Associaton for the !
Advancement of Selce , and Is also a mem- '
her of the Anthropological society . She was
graduated In medlelno at the ColullJlln uni-
vrsiy In WashlnJton , and Is now working
al the Johns 101111ins hospital In Baltimore ,
Gertrude Iherton , who Is now living In
London , comes to the defense or AmerIcan
girls In n British periodical , Lady Coln
Campbell's Realm , which II appears has been
assaulting Columbia's daughters , Miss : \ Ather-
Ion makes the plea thaI the heal a judges
Americans hy the " \'llgar thousands who
rush to Europe to spend their newly-made
dollllrs , and hy the 'popper' girls , who cross
their 'Ieglets' end eat candy In the reading
rooms or the Grand or lelrolole ( , "
The health ot the wife or the vice president -
dent Is reported ! to hC very poor , and , one
lady , the wife at II prominent ' senator , recently -
eent ) ' heard tram Mrs. Stevenson , and , says
that the rumor or the III-henlh or the young ;
daughter of the vie president seems 10 be
cOllrmed by the tone at Irl Stevellson's
)
letter , Mrs. Scott , sister or Mrs. Stevenson ,
will take n house Washington this winter ,
but It Is likely that time family or tilt ? vice
president will remain In their old quarters
al the Nornandie
Jane Cakehreall is . In 1 sense , a truly
modern English herollle , She hf made 277
alJpenrallces In a I.olllon police court 01 the
charge of drunkenness , and Is , apparently ,
very far from the end of her public carrer
The despair or magistrates and philanthropists
Jane may lIe salll to have conquered , the
resources oC civlllzation leI friends will
nol or cannot help her ; a cell relalns her only
a few days orI ( eks. Even the suggestion
or lady , Henry Somerset that she should 1 be
taken 10 11 beautiful home for inebriates hi
not very promising ! , for II Is quite certain
that , after making things "hum , " Jane woul !
soon return to public le ,
lo = 1'S ,
Minnealoll a 111' . ,
Afer n day of toll , the RW'et
Calm ot cnntlnt ,
Comes with n good cigar ; , 1 weet ,
When Slit' light IH spent ;
'hen tlmn Is loth to gather his wIng
Of shadows deep ,
O'cr the little mother who rocks and sing
'fho babe ' to sleep ,
From the hal boring walls ot home , away
Care mils afar ,
" ' .eathl',1 , In the wiching halo gray
Of a good cigar.
No other scene can , Ite this , In lire ,
Content emhrow ,
I the hone , the babe . and the little wife
' ,
Belong to you
e
11'11 111. . 'rendeaehes ,
The southern people are naturally religious ,
and wherever a s1lemelll IR formed there
will lJe found churches of different Ilenomln-
Hens The writer , In company with a party
of northern gentlemen , was invited 10 slop al
11 small town In Mississippi and examine an
exhibit of the agricultural ! ; and horticultural
products or that ! secton , The exhibit was one
or the best wo over saw north or south , but
what Imprese,1 , the writer was Ihe cordial
greetings or n large number of people al an
early hour In the morning The orchestra and
organ and all the people join heartily In the
doxology , "Praise God from whom ell blessings .
Ings lIow , " This was a southern greeting 10 a
party or northern tourists and home seekers ,
and II was genuine. We do nol believe there
Is a settlement that will nol cordially welcome -
come the coming or nortbern families who ,
with honest purpose , seek to make n ham In
the south
The refined and . friendly people of the Or.
chard , Honas regIon respect a man's political
or religious IH Il'r and no one tired expect any
timing but thJ most .ordIal welcome front
these hospitable people See Orchard Homes ,
neo , W Ames. general agent , 1617 I'nrnam
51" , Omaha , Neb ,
-e--
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feet satlsfaatlon or money rerunde Price 23
cent per bOl For rile by Iuhn & Co
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THE JACOTOT SCHOOL
No , 11Vest Stilt HL , New York Ciy ,
Adjaeenl 10 IPltlll : i'nlIC ,
.I'.nl 1111
OrplA I IJI.HJITJl'l. : JO { 11:1 ( IAI'-
1IONAnn ( In young buttes ' . \.lrOI1 \ , If Inklne
"lcc\II , \ ' 'll'.t' . , ' 'IoruI collrglntr Ilpl"\'IUOI.
11 lc , Art and 1.lnKII" . . , Dille. F."nlnt rot- (
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a ( , ( f ( is
i ' ' ' t J till
I I J
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1 I
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( Mr mama us' Wool Snap ) tl whh mine hI )
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WOOL . SOAP
I. u-cd In lime laundry.
Wool Soap I deltcato and rurrehlit forlatl pur-
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Two afeaitoUotawl laundry ,
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U t vorktei : ill ' ' , : r / t.B' . : nerd Loula l HI. ,
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