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About The daily Nebraskan. ([Lincoln, Neb.) 1901-current | View Entire Issue (March 20, 1990)
Femininity revived in current fashion trends By Lisa Stankus Staff Reporter First, there was the return of the mini-skirts. The fashion world rediscovered the curves and sensualities that had been buried and draped by the anony mous look. The fashion forecast for spring/ summer 1990 will be a return to this rage for the “femme fatale” look. This glorification of the woman will include pretty silhouettes, delicate patterns and refined coloring that will dominate the racks of every major design line around the world. The shape of the designs will be body conscious. More specifically, the ’90s will be starling with an emphasis on the neckline. But even more specifically, all eyes will be turning to the exotic allure of a scan tily clad bustline. Elaborations on the corset and the underwirc bra-look familiarized by Madonna and entourage both will be shown in public. The influence of bra-drcsscs will be used to reshape the bosom to uplift and pronounce, just as in the ’40s and the days of the cinema-screen vixen. Let’s face it, the Jane Russell look is “it” this season. New York designer Donna Karan adheres to this fitted look in her new, lower-priced line, Donna Karan New York (DKNY). The line is carried exclusively in Lincoln by Ben Si mon’s. Karan uses body suits and clingy materials in her ’90collcction. The one-piece smoothness will be joined by the wraparound-style knit top to follow the natural line. “This body-wrap dressing seems to be a popular addition to this sea son’s line,” said Melanie Bell, man ager of Ben Simon’s at Gateway Shopping Center. “Also, the sarong skirt will be popular along the lines of the fitted wear. And as the Twiggy-thin figure is pass<5 for women, a new logic to fash ion has arisen: Clothing is worn to please the wearer, impress associates and express sexuality, though not necessarily in that order. Enter the look of “slouch” dress ing. Rather than looking sloppy and unkempt, this brand of dressing al lows the woman a degree of comfort flavor and Az.lcc patterning arc re laxed in nature. This comfort can be seen in the design lines of Calvin Klein, Giorgio Armani and Norma Kamali, as all three have opted for the influence of the American Indian to personify the “wrangler look” -- in everything from faded blue jeans to oversized tops. The warmer summer weather also will be reviving the polka dot, and according to one local salesperson, polka dots “will be everywhere.’’ “The rayon shirts and weekend knits will be showing the dots as an exciting and fun addition,’’ said Chantcl Bicstcr of Ben Simon’s. Color and patterns will be making a strong impact of their own. Since the majority of fashion shapes arc simple, the pattern and color accents can make an ensemble a vibrant state ment. Floral prints will, in a variety of ways, add their own level of feminin ity. New York-based designer Adri enne Vittadini, known for her dra matic use of knit dressing, is doing the majority of her spring line with a nostalgic, floral print. The cut is comfortable, with the bright color of the print making a splashy look. The inspiration of ethnic dressing can be seen in the lines of Tangiers, Esprit and Generra. Aimed at the younger market, this look is bright designs, and plenty of them. The impact is startling, but the feel is earthy - not to mention comfortable -- with the majority of pieces being oversized rayon tops and matching swingy, short skirts. Internationally, the look is sheer drama. The couture collections of Gianni Versace, Sybilla, Roland Nivclais, Yves Saint Laurent and Katherine Hammett arc all worshipping the god of cleavage and provocative dress ing. The body-hugging designs arc reminiscent of the early screen stars, and their brand of glamour via curves and corsets. Strapless dresses, with the bustier being very sculptured, also are common among many designers overseas. However, the common line to all shores is the unrelenting interest in reviving the pretty femininity that has been sacrificed for many fashion seasons. with the relaxed fit. The clothes re veal a subtle, sensual swagger. The design lines of Giorgio Ar mani, Donna Karan and Louis Dcll’Olio for Anne Klein all arc show ing this smooth fluidity of slouch dressing by combining long, flowing jackets over full trousers or wider-cut skirts. The polite gathers and tucks give the impression of informal tailoring to the separates. Shoulder pads will still be worn with this genre of styl ing, but will be rounded and usually only about hall an inch thick. Spring and summer dressing also will sec a return to specialized dress ing. “One of the most dominant looks this year will be the nautical look,” said Karen Wilson, manager of Dil lards at Gateway. “This ‘sailor look began last season and continues to grow stronger. The navy/while and red/white combination will be seen in shorts, dresses and culottes of many design lines.” The look of Santa Fe will be an influence this season. Again, this style began last season, but continues to grow in popularity. The denim-washed KMS, jewelry, hair accessories, styles, perms, colors, jewelry, hair styling, ■g l I o/l l R f i F* I s £ 1219 Q St. I $ Glass Menagerie j § 477-0405 L u X 2 ca 1? y> rs O. O p. ■1 OP1 Nails - regularly $35.00 % special price $29.00 X Expires April 14,1990 David Hansen Daily Nebraskan Washable silk polka-dot blouse by Intro. —-----—__ __ $WM/q \\tfO SP/j»|^G Spring has arrived and here's what’s hot... New rayon outfits for gals, cool cotton shirts for guys, the newest shades of denim for everyone in all the latest styles. BRASS WK We Speak \hUR - language; Lincoln East Park Plaza Open Sundays 466-3164