Femininity revived in current fashion trends
By Lisa Stankus
Staff Reporter
First, there was the return of the
mini-skirts.
The fashion world rediscovered
the curves and sensualities that had
been buried and draped by the anony
mous look.
The fashion forecast for spring/
summer 1990 will be a return to this
rage for the “femme fatale” look.
This glorification of the woman will
include pretty silhouettes, delicate
patterns and refined coloring that will
dominate the racks of every major
design line around the world.
The shape of the designs will be
body conscious. More specifically,
the ’90s will be starling with an
emphasis on the neckline. But even
more specifically, all eyes will be
turning to the exotic allure of a scan
tily clad bustline.
Elaborations on the corset and the
underwirc bra-look familiarized by
Madonna and entourage both will be
shown in public.
The influence of bra-drcsscs will
be used to reshape the bosom to uplift
and pronounce, just as in the ’40s and
the days of the cinema-screen vixen.
Let’s face it, the Jane Russell look
is “it” this season.
New York designer Donna Karan
adheres to this fitted look in her new,
lower-priced line, Donna Karan New
York (DKNY). The line is carried
exclusively in Lincoln by Ben Si
mon’s. Karan uses body suits and
clingy materials in her ’90collcction.
The one-piece smoothness will be
joined by the wraparound-style knit
top to follow the natural line.
“This body-wrap dressing seems
to be a popular addition to this sea
son’s line,” said Melanie Bell, man
ager of Ben Simon’s at Gateway
Shopping Center. “Also, the sarong
skirt will be popular along the lines of
the fitted wear.
And as the Twiggy-thin figure is
pass<5 for women, a new logic to fash
ion has arisen: Clothing is worn to
please the wearer, impress associates
and express sexuality, though not
necessarily in that order.
Enter the look of “slouch” dress
ing. Rather than looking sloppy and
unkempt, this brand of dressing al
lows the woman a degree of comfort
flavor and Az.lcc patterning arc re
laxed in nature. This comfort can be
seen in the design lines of Calvin
Klein, Giorgio Armani and Norma
Kamali, as all three have opted for the
influence of the American Indian to
personify the “wrangler look” -- in
everything from faded blue jeans to
oversized tops.
The warmer summer weather also
will be reviving the polka dot, and
according to one local salesperson,
polka dots “will be everywhere.’’
“The rayon shirts and weekend
knits will be showing the dots as an
exciting and fun addition,’’ said
Chantcl Bicstcr of Ben Simon’s.
Color and patterns will be making
a strong impact of their own. Since
the majority of fashion shapes arc
simple, the pattern and color accents
can make an ensemble a vibrant state
ment.
Floral prints will, in a variety of
ways, add their own level of feminin
ity. New York-based designer Adri
enne Vittadini, known for her dra
matic use of knit dressing, is doing
the majority of her spring line with a
nostalgic, floral print. The cut is
comfortable, with the bright color of
the print making a splashy look.
The inspiration of ethnic dressing
can be seen in the lines of Tangiers,
Esprit and Generra. Aimed at the
younger market, this look is bright
designs, and plenty of them. The impact
is startling, but the feel is earthy - not
to mention comfortable -- with the
majority of pieces being oversized
rayon tops and matching swingy, short
skirts.
Internationally, the look is sheer
drama.
The couture collections of Gianni
Versace, Sybilla, Roland Nivclais,
Yves Saint Laurent and Katherine
Hammett arc all worshipping the god
of cleavage and provocative dress
ing.
The body-hugging designs arc
reminiscent of the early screen stars,
and their brand of glamour via curves
and corsets. Strapless dresses, with
the bustier being very sculptured, also
are common among many designers
overseas.
However, the common line to all
shores is the unrelenting interest in
reviving the pretty femininity that
has been sacrificed for many fashion
seasons.
with the relaxed fit. The clothes re
veal a subtle, sensual swagger.
The design lines of Giorgio Ar
mani, Donna Karan and Louis
Dcll’Olio for Anne Klein all arc show
ing this smooth fluidity of slouch
dressing by combining long, flowing
jackets over full trousers or wider-cut
skirts.
The polite gathers and tucks give
the impression of informal tailoring
to the separates. Shoulder pads will
still be worn with this genre of styl
ing, but will be rounded and usually
only about hall an inch thick.
Spring and summer dressing also
will sec a return to specialized dress
ing.
“One of the most dominant looks
this year will be the nautical look,”
said Karen Wilson, manager of Dil
lards at Gateway. “This ‘sailor look
began last season and continues to
grow stronger. The navy/while and
red/white combination will be seen in
shorts, dresses and culottes of many
design lines.”
The look of Santa Fe will be an
influence this season. Again, this style
began last season, but continues to
grow in popularity. The denim-washed
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