Image provided by: University of Nebraska-Lincoln Libraries, Lincoln, NE
About The frontier. (O'Neill City, Holt County, Neb.) 1880-1965 | View Entire Issue (July 5, 1945)
White Eyelet, Sheers, Organdy, For Exquisite Summer Frocks By CHERIE NICHOLAS 'T'HERE’S a tremendous vogue on -*■ for all-white this summer. You’ll find in the current collections a veri table snowdrift of white dresses made of beautiful materials, ranging from exquisite filmy sheers, organ dy, lawn, dainty voile, swiss and the beloved eyelets to classic piques, lin ens and various other of the firm weave whites. Stroll around to the accessory dis plays and you will become increas ingly conscious that designers are playing up white magic for all it is worth. Your eye will glimpse a vast showing of white jewelry with em phasis on white earrings. You will find an intriguing showing of white handbags many of which are of the new white washable plastic. The new white footwear plays up shoe artistry in such thrilling de sign, glamorous white shoes become a necessary luxury this summer. The same may be said of white mil linery, the supremacy of the white hat in the summer mode is style fnews of utmost importance. The fiewest gesture in white headwear is the hat made of phantom-like filmy white sheers or white horse, hair. Then too white flower hats and trims are beguilingly lovely this summer, and you can get the smart est sailors ever in various type white straws. White gloves add their dainty touch to the picture. In the illustration we are showing a trio of lovely gowns that bring a message of the outstanding impor tance of white eyeleted de luxe cot tons for this summer. You will find the gown to the right made of white eyelet pique will prove a beautiful buy for party wear and for gay sum mer dances. The chic cardigan line of the jacket and cap sleeves are bound with pinwale pique. Vary the jacket with a black skirt to show its wartime versatility as a double-duty dress. The lovely bolero dress of sheer eyelet cotton, centered in the pic ture, passes all tests for smart summer wear. Doff the jacket and you have a bareback dress for sum mer dances. Ruffles of pique soften the neckline and add a modish touch to the slim skirt, achieving a chic side effect. The ribbon belt is pale blue grosgrain. Capes register an exciting style innovation this season. A jaunty little cape makes a star appearance in the versatile cotton pique dress shown to the left. This is a type frock that is a first choice with party girls and furlough brides. The wide ruffle of eyelet pique conceals a row of buttons, making it possible to re move the capelet for sunning and dancing. The vogue for white expresses it self not only in sheer and lovely wash fabrics, but this summer great stress is being placed on perfectly charming dresses and two-piece styles made of white spun rayon, gabardine and wool sheers. These are styled to a nicety with emphasis pla °d on beautiful trimming detail, such as allover braiding in matching white on novel pockets, or an all over embroidered effect. Especially attractive is the handsome trapunto design that enhances many of these smart fashions, many of which are in beguiling off-white tones, the new white-wine shade being first in fa vor. Popular with the young set is the simple full-skirted white dress that is lavish with colorful embroidery, worked to simulate an apron front. Favored for practical summer wear is the bareback dress with bolero made of nicely tailored linen or sharkskin, which is noted for its im maculate whiteness. Released by Western Newspaper Union. Narroiv Silhouette An interesting thing about this sea son’s print frocks is that they are styled in such versatile ways in troducing new silhouettes that give zest to the mode. A glowing in stance of the trend to launch “some thing new” and strikingly distinc tive in styling technique for the summer print is seen in the attrac tive model pictured. In this gown selected from a collection of mid summer styles by Chicago Fashion Industries the emphasis is on a nar row silhouetted skirt contrasted by a decided tunic flare about the hips, j This lovely-lady print frock will Ue outstanding wherever it goes. j There’s News in Hat That's Merely a Brim Designed especially for summer comfort are the new half-hats made of starched pique. The unique part of it is the hat isn’t all there. The crown is missing, and for a good reason. You have all the appear ance of wearing a hat, without the discomfort of too much hat on a tor rid summer day. These little head pieces are one of the big success fashions of the season because of their practicality as well as their flattering ways. Some are so de signed they can be laid out flat for ironing. They certainly keep pace with "the style” being designed in cloches, off-face types, Dutch bonnet effects, and other becoming versions. One of the smartest half-hats has no brim at all in front, but at the back there is a down-over-the-hair flange flaring from the fitted headband that shows the influence of the favorite fisherman type. » - New Frocks Featuring Braidwork. Embroidery Braidwork and embroidery is be ing artfully featured on thin spun rayon dresses also summer jacket suits. The modes are in lovely pas tels or even more to be admired— subtle off-whites. Enormous patch pockets, all-over braided in exact tone of the dress, are seen on many a stunning frock. Sometimes the bow tie at the throat also is cor respondingly braided. Too lovely for words are frocks of fine chambray, the jackets or bodice tops of which are all-over braided in white. Broomstick Skirts One of the biggest fads of the sea son in the campus group is the broomstick skirt. Girls with an eye to fashion and thrift are making their own this summer. The skirts are usually made of pastel chintz, but any light-weight curtain mate rial will do. Another trick is to seam two large print squares to gether, gathering the top into a belt. FBI's Identification Division Can Name Anyone Of 97 Million People Through Fingerprint Cards Huge Files Now Hold Records of Majority Of American Citizens Picture a vast room, longer and wider than a football ; field, with a vaulted ceiling 75 feet high, filled with long rows of steel filing cabinets. In this great hall 2,500 girls work at calculating machines, typewriters and filing cases. Then visualize 96,588,265 sep arate fingerprint cards (the total as this is written) in these files, and you have some idea of the size of the fingerprint, or identification division of the federal bureau of investiga tion in Washington. Ill Ciuuiiiuu n DUl Ilial loll v all. hall dozen other large rooms are filled with hundreds of other girls engaged in classifying incoming fin gerprint cards before they are for warded to the main fingerprint files. It is a complex, tedious Job of huge proportions, but so proficient has the FBI become in this identification di vision, so expert has become the classification system, that when the sheriff of New Madrid county, Missouri, or the chief of police of Norman, Okla., or the town marshal at Bluffton, Ind., telephones for iden tification of a given person, or sends In fingerprints, these officials have an answer within a few minutes. For, although there are almost 100 million separate cards, representing 100 million persons, on file, classi fication has been reduced to such a science that it is never necessary to remove more than 100 cards for comparison to make positive identi fication. Building up this tremendous reser voir of identification cards has be come a hobby, almost a fetish, of the nation’s boss G-Man, J. Edgar Hoover, director of the FBI. He foresaw years ago the advantage of the fingerprint system in both crim inal identification, and in civilian non-criminal investigations, both in peace and wartime. The system has had a tremendous growth during these five war years. Bureau Expanded by War Need. For instance, on July 1, 1941, the bureau had approximately 21,700,000 fingerprint records on file. But since the war, fingerprint records have been coming into the bureau at the rate of about 22,000 daily. Impetus has been given through the selective service system, and the civil service commission, which requires finger printing of all employees. War workers are all fingerprinted, too and copies are sent to the bureau, so that during these war years about 77 million prints have been added. The job of classifying, filing and sorting these millions of separate cards has been a tremendous one. First it was necessary to recruit girls from all over the nation. These girls had to be above the average, with high school or college educa tions. They took the regular FBI oath. Their habits and lives were thoroughly investigated and even their place of residence in Washing ton picked from a list supplied and approved by the FBI. But to get this bureau started ... to overcome the popular preju dice against being fingerprinted, to sell police officials on the advantages of the fingerprint system in the ear ly days, took months and months of educational wor by FBI agents traveling throughout the country. Enlisted Help of Local Police. It took painstaking effort on the part of the bureau to build up good will among police officials and pub lic officials everywhere. In those early days every agent had orders when passing through a town to pay his respects to the police officials and to pass along a ‘‘message” from J. Edgar Hoover concerning his will ingness to help in any local investi gation. The crux of the message ■ was “don’t forget to take finger ] prints and send them in.” The identification division is now housed, for the duration, in the brand-new white stone District of Co lumbia national guard armory. It occupies the whole building, and has constructed new temporary addi tions to house the cafeteria, lounges and locker rooms. Where it will go after the war is a question. Criminal identification is indispen sable in combating crime and of course is a most potent factor in apprehension of the fugitive. From the earliest annals of history, per sonal identification of some charac ter has been in vogue. Members of one savage tribe were distinguished from others through distinctive at tire, bodily decorations, or charac teristic scars from self-inflicted cuts or burns. It was not until the ad li I This is a portion of the Personal Identification Form, showing the lin gers of the left hand. The print of each finger is also recorded sep arately on the card, which also con tains ail necessary written data. vent of photography, however, that law enforcement agencies Initiated modern methods and built up “rogues” galleries. The famous Bertillon method, a system of meas urements of certain bony parts of the anatomy in addition to the front al and profile photographs, was an effective but not a positive means of identification since it was early real ized that one operative would take these measurements “loose” and an other would take them "close” re sulting in different classifications. This system, nevertheless, was the best possible until the fingerprinting method was developed in the early 19C0s. The pioneer wor was done by Sir Francis Galton, a noted British scientist, who discovered that no two individuals in the world have identi cal fingerprints, and that the pattern remains unchanged throughout life. In 1892 he assembled the first collec tion of fingerprints in the world. In 1896 the International Associa tion of Chiefs of Police, which in cludes the heads of police depart ments of most of the principal cities of this country and Canada, estab lished a special bureau at Chicago. This was later removed to Wash ington and became known as the National Bureau of Criminal Iden tification. Its purpose was the com piling of Bertillon records. As use of the Bertillon system was discon tinued the national bureau gradually began acquiring a collection of fin gerprint records. FBI Took Over In 1924. In 1924 this identification division was placed under the jurisdiction of the FBI and received consolidat ed in Washington the records of both the National Bureau of Criminal Identification and the records of the Leavenworth prison. More than 11,000 law enforcement agencies to day are submitting prints to the bu reau and more than 600 fugitives are identified by the bureau each month. The bureau has now on file more than 1,200,000 prints of persons ap plying for government positions un der the Civil Service commission. Comparison with criminal records show that 7.7 per cent of these have had a previous criminal history, or about 1 out of 20 applicants. Through the vigilance of the FBI these people are barred from obtaining positions of trust within the government. Here’s an example of how these requests of identification work. In 1939 the Works Projects administra tion in New York City submitted prints of a woman applying for a job as housekeeper. Search re vealed that she was arrested in June, 1933, on a first degree murder charge and a fingerprint card sent from Sing Sing indicated that the woman was incarcerated at Ossining, N. Y., awaiting execution for murder. It is interesting to note that after being sentenced to execution in 1933, this woman was somehow free six years later. On September 14, 1944, 29 persons were killed In a train wreck at Terre Haute, Ind. Twenty or more were army air corps men returned from overseas. Difficulty was experienced: in identifying the bodies, but finger prints were sent to the FBI. Ex perts carefully checked the incom ing fingerprints and identified eight of them under names sent in from Indiana. Two other prints, however, were not identical with those of mil itary personnel whose names were given, but were identified as two oth er soldiers whose names had not been furnished. So not nil identifications are crim inal identifications. Missing persons have been found, amnesia victims identified, traffic accident victims identified . . . for instance— Fingerprints of an amnesia victim from Fresno county general hospital in California were received. The vic tim had been asked to write on her fingerprint card any names which came to her mind. She listed seven names and addresses in Gary, Ind., Seattle, Wash., and Charleston. W. Va. As soon as the prints were re ceived by FBI they were found to be identical with a set of prints re ceived from Portland, Ore., from a company doing war work. In mak ing the application the woman, of course, had given her correct name and this information was furnished the police in Fresno. The woman had no criminal record in the FBI U1CS« Importance of fingerprint identifi cation of non-criminals is pointed out when the department shows that in the past year alone 9,000 bodies were taken to morgues and nearly 2,000 doomed to burial in potter’s fields because of inability of authori ties to identify them. During the same year more than 200,000 persons disappeared in this country and were sought by relatives and friends. Fin gerprinting has solved thousands of these tragedies and returned many lost folks to their loved ones. Records Benefit Everyone. The department in this connection points out the advantage of volun tary, widespread fingerprinting. As a permanent seal of personal iden tity these fingerprint records offer in dubitable benefits to those who take advantage of the service. According to Mr. Hoover, it ap pears to him as ridiculous that if a victim of amnesia or of a disaster has a prior criminal record, his fam ily will be immediately notified, while if he has lived within the law, his family, ignorant of his trouble, can render no aid. This is an ever-recurring paradox because fin gerprinting of the criminal is the rule, while fingerprinting of the law abiding citizen is still the exception. All civil personal identification prints are kept in files separate and apart from the criminal records and are there available in case the individual meets with any mishap which makes it necessary to deter mine his identity. One interesting sidelight on the criminal identification side is the maintenance in conjunction with its regular alias name file, an addi tional file of nicknames. This nick name file now includes approximate ly 285,000 cards and is of value in establishing the identity of criminals who are known only by aliases and nicknames. It sometimes occurs that the only clue to a particular crime is a nick name used unconsciously during the crime. Many of these names are descriptive and amusing such as Ash Pan Slim, Dill Pickle. Cream Puffs, Ant Eater, Bughouse Bill, etc. A number of cases have beer, solved by coordinating these names with fin gerprints. Tiie main file room is now located in the great drill hall of the national guard armory. The identification division of the FBI now occupies the entire armory. This is a temporary arrangement. After the war a special building probably will be erected. Individuality and Uniqueness of Fingerprints Was First Established in 1880 l»v British Scientists The first known scientific observa tion particularly relating to finger prints was made in 1686 by Marcello Malpighi, professor of anatomy at the University of Bologna, Italy, who alluded to the ridges which “de scribe divers figures” on the finger tips. During the subsequent years others pointed to the “ridges” on the finger tips, but it remained for Dr. Henry Faulds, an Englishman connected with the Tsukiji hospital at Tokyo in 1880 to establish the fact that individual fingerprint pat terns were of very great variety, and that they remained unchange able. Sir Francis Galton. noted English scientist, established the fact that no two fingerprints are alike, and devised the first collection of finger print records in 1892. But the comprehensive system which is the basis for that used in this country was established by Sir E. R. Henry, commissioner of po lice at London’s Scotland Yard of fice in 1901. First practical intro duction in police work was in Sing Sing prison in New York state in 1903. Then on September 24, 1904, R. W. McClaughry, warden of the U. S. penitentiary at Leavenworth, Kan., was granted authority to fin gerprint prisoners, and five days lat er the St. Louis police department inaugurated the system under su pervision of a British officer from Scotland Yard. SEWING CIRCLE PATTERNS Junior Date Frock for Summer Smartly Tailored Button-Front OJ 8859 11-18 Summer Date Frock CfOR the young in spirit — a " charming “date” frock that will be the most wgrn, best loved of your summer costumes. Make it in gay floral prints or checks and trim with brilliant ric rac. Pattern No. 8839 la designed tor sizes 11, 12. 13, 14, 16 and 1H. Size 12 requires 3 yards of 33 or 39-Inch material; 3 yards rlc rac to trim. o- i'* t'* o- o- O-* ^ (v. <v. (\. (v. \ ASK MS 4% ? : ANOTHER I ; ? A General Quiz ? O- (V. (V. (V. (V. (W (V. (V. (V. fv. (V. (V. (V. (V. (V. (V. (V. The Questions 1. Based on standard time, when it’s 12 noon in Chicago, in Tokyo it’s what time? 2. What is meant by a woman’s coterie? 3. What country ranks next to the United States in population in the western hemisphere? 4. With what type of cases does the Appellate court deal? 5. From what source is sac charin derived? 0. What was the White House first known as? 7. How many islands are there in the Philippines? 8. From what does the word camera come? i fit? nnau/cra 1. Three a. m. the next day. 2. Her set, or circle of friends. 3. Brazil. 4. With appeals. 5. Coal tar. 6. The President’s Palace. 7. About 7,000. 8. From the Italian word cam era which means chamber. Romania Expropriates and Gives Lands to Peasants One of the most drastic reforms of modern times took place re cently in Romania when the gov ernment expropriated, without compensation, all lands owned by Germans and by Romanian war criminals and collaborationists, as well as all land in excess of 125 acres in large estates, says Col lier’s. Among the properties ex empted are those belonging to churches, hospitals and King Michael. The land is now being divided into farms of 12'6 acres and given gratis to landless peasants. Dependable Button-Front A CRISPLY tailored button front that is comfortable and attractive — the sort of frock youi can depend on all summer long.: Easily and quickly made, it’s the| perennial favorite in every wom an’s wardrobe. • • • Pattern No. 8787 is designed for sixoa 14, 16. 18. 20; 40 . 42 and 44. Size 1«. short sleeves, requires 3% yards of 39 lnch material. * Due to an unusually large demand anti current war conditions, slightly more Umw is required In filling orders for a few of! the most popular pattern numbers. Send your order to: I SEWING I’lUCLE PATTERN DEPT. 530 South Wells St. Chirac* Enclose 25 cents in coins for each pattern desired. Pattern No. _Size— Name Address MAKE ICE CREAM Af horn#-Any flavor-Dolkiout — Smooth — No lev crytfalt — No cooking — No ro whipping—No tcorched flovor — Eatv — Inexpentive — 20 rrciptt In each 154 peg. Pleat* tend this r.ii fiee foil-tit# »om pie offer, or buy from your grocer LonoonoenRy Brand Homemade Ico Creom STABILIZER lONOONDrSRY - 1)5 HOWARD. SSNFRANCISCO 3, UUI.M Your Baby May Have Good Reason to Cry After » night of lost sleep, it ift hard to lie patient with bnby; but mayl» poor baby Buffered from sting and burn of diaper rash. Sprinkle ou Meiftana, the soothing, medicated powder — relieve this misery. Family favorite for itch of minor skin troubles. Demand Mexsona. of cases showed jV/ clinical improve- 'l ment after only 1® ^ days treatment with soretone in impartial, scientific test. SORETONE Mads by McKesson I Robbins Said with assty btck pm suits 50* and *1.00 The Baking Powder with the BALANCED Double Action Clabber Girl's balanced double action makes it the natural choice for the modern recipe ... for just the right action in the mixing bowl, plus that final rise to light and fluffy flavor in the oven.