White Eyelet, Sheers, Organdy,
For Exquisite Summer Frocks
By CHERIE NICHOLAS
'T'HERE’S a tremendous vogue on
-*■ for all-white this summer. You’ll
find in the current collections a veri
table snowdrift of white dresses
made of beautiful materials, ranging
from exquisite filmy sheers, organ
dy, lawn, dainty voile, swiss and the
beloved eyelets to classic piques, lin
ens and various other of the firm
weave whites.
Stroll around to the accessory dis
plays and you will become increas
ingly conscious that designers are
playing up white magic for all it is
worth. Your eye will glimpse a vast
showing of white jewelry with em
phasis on white earrings. You will
find an intriguing showing of white
handbags many of which are of the
new white washable plastic.
The new white footwear plays up
shoe artistry in such thrilling de
sign, glamorous white shoes become
a necessary luxury this summer.
The same may be said of white mil
linery, the supremacy of the white
hat in the summer mode is style
fnews of utmost importance. The
fiewest gesture in white headwear
is the hat made of phantom-like
filmy white sheers or white horse,
hair. Then too white flower hats
and trims are beguilingly lovely this
summer, and you can get the smart
est sailors ever in various type white
straws. White gloves add their
dainty touch to the picture.
In the illustration we are showing
a trio of lovely gowns that bring a
message of the outstanding impor
tance of white eyeleted de luxe cot
tons for this summer. You will find
the gown to the right made of white
eyelet pique will prove a beautiful
buy for party wear and for gay sum
mer dances. The chic cardigan line
of the jacket and cap sleeves are
bound with pinwale pique. Vary the
jacket with a black skirt to show its
wartime versatility as a double-duty
dress.
The lovely bolero dress of sheer
eyelet cotton, centered in the pic
ture, passes all tests for smart
summer wear. Doff the jacket and
you have a bareback dress for sum
mer dances. Ruffles of pique soften
the neckline and add a modish touch
to the slim skirt, achieving a chic
side effect. The ribbon belt is pale
blue grosgrain.
Capes register an exciting style
innovation this season. A jaunty
little cape makes a star appearance
in the versatile cotton pique dress
shown to the left. This is a type
frock that is a first choice with party
girls and furlough brides. The wide
ruffle of eyelet pique conceals a row
of buttons, making it possible to re
move the capelet for sunning and
dancing.
The vogue for white expresses it
self not only in sheer and lovely
wash fabrics, but this summer great
stress is being placed on perfectly
charming dresses and two-piece
styles made of white spun rayon,
gabardine and wool sheers. These
are styled to a nicety with emphasis
pla °d on beautiful trimming detail,
such as allover braiding in matching
white on novel pockets, or an all
over embroidered effect. Especially
attractive is the handsome trapunto
design that enhances many of these
smart fashions, many of which are
in beguiling off-white tones, the new
white-wine shade being first in fa
vor.
Popular with the young set is the
simple full-skirted white dress that
is lavish with colorful embroidery,
worked to simulate an apron front.
Favored for practical summer wear
is the bareback dress with bolero
made of nicely tailored linen or
sharkskin, which is noted for its im
maculate whiteness.
Released by Western Newspaper Union.
Narroiv Silhouette
An interesting thing about this sea
son’s print frocks is that they are
styled in such versatile ways in
troducing new silhouettes that give
zest to the mode. A glowing in
stance of the trend to launch “some
thing new” and strikingly distinc
tive in styling technique for the
summer print is seen in the attrac
tive model pictured. In this gown
selected from a collection of mid
summer styles by Chicago Fashion
Industries the emphasis is on a nar
row silhouetted skirt contrasted by
a decided tunic flare about the hips, j
This lovely-lady print frock will
Ue outstanding wherever it goes. j
There’s News in Hat
That's Merely a Brim
Designed especially for summer
comfort are the new half-hats made
of starched pique. The unique part
of it is the hat isn’t all there. The
crown is missing, and for a good
reason. You have all the appear
ance of wearing a hat, without the
discomfort of too much hat on a tor
rid summer day. These little head
pieces are one of the big success
fashions of the season because of
their practicality as well as their
flattering ways. Some are so de
signed they can be laid out flat for
ironing. They certainly keep pace
with "the style” being designed in
cloches, off-face types, Dutch bonnet
effects, and other becoming versions.
One of the smartest half-hats has no
brim at all in front, but at the back
there is a down-over-the-hair flange
flaring from the fitted headband that
shows the influence of the favorite
fisherman type.
» -
New Frocks Featuring
Braidwork. Embroidery
Braidwork and embroidery is be
ing artfully featured on thin spun
rayon dresses also summer jacket
suits. The modes are in lovely pas
tels or even more to be admired—
subtle off-whites. Enormous patch
pockets, all-over braided in exact
tone of the dress, are seen on many
a stunning frock. Sometimes the
bow tie at the throat also is cor
respondingly braided. Too lovely for
words are frocks of fine chambray,
the jackets or bodice tops of which
are all-over braided in white.
Broomstick Skirts
One of the biggest fads of the sea
son in the campus group is the
broomstick skirt. Girls with an eye
to fashion and thrift are making
their own this summer. The skirts
are usually made of pastel chintz,
but any light-weight curtain mate
rial will do. Another trick is to
seam two large print squares to
gether, gathering the top into a belt.
FBI's Identification Division Can Name Anyone
Of 97 Million People Through Fingerprint Cards
Huge Files Now Hold
Records of Majority
Of American Citizens
Picture a vast room, longer
and wider than a football
; field, with a vaulted ceiling 75
feet high, filled with long rows
of steel filing cabinets.
In this great hall 2,500 girls
work at calculating machines,
typewriters and filing cases.
Then visualize 96,588,265 sep
arate fingerprint cards (the
total as this is written) in these
files, and you have some idea
of the size of the fingerprint,
or identification division of the
federal bureau of investiga
tion in Washington.
Ill Ciuuiiiuu n
DUl Ilial loll v all.
hall dozen other large rooms are
filled with hundreds of other girls
engaged in classifying incoming fin
gerprint cards before they are for
warded to the main fingerprint files.
It is a complex, tedious Job of huge
proportions, but so proficient has the
FBI become in this identification di
vision, so expert has become the
classification system, that when
the sheriff of New Madrid county,
Missouri, or the chief of police of
Norman, Okla., or the town marshal
at Bluffton, Ind., telephones for iden
tification of a given person, or sends
In fingerprints, these officials have
an answer within a few minutes.
For, although there are almost 100
million separate cards, representing
100 million persons, on file, classi
fication has been reduced to such a
science that it is never necessary to
remove more than 100 cards for
comparison to make positive identi
fication.
Building up this tremendous reser
voir of identification cards has be
come a hobby, almost a fetish, of
the nation’s boss G-Man, J. Edgar
Hoover, director of the FBI. He
foresaw years ago the advantage of
the fingerprint system in both crim
inal identification, and in civilian
non-criminal investigations, both in
peace and wartime. The system has
had a tremendous growth during
these five war years.
Bureau Expanded by War Need.
For instance, on July 1, 1941, the
bureau had approximately 21,700,000
fingerprint records on file. But since
the war, fingerprint records have
been coming into the bureau at the
rate of about 22,000 daily. Impetus
has been given through the selective
service system, and the civil service
commission, which requires finger
printing of all employees. War
workers are all fingerprinted, too
and copies are sent to the bureau,
so that during these war years about
77 million prints have been added.
The job of classifying, filing and
sorting these millions of separate
cards has been a tremendous one.
First it was necessary to recruit
girls from all over the nation. These
girls had to be above the average,
with high school or college educa
tions. They took the regular FBI
oath. Their habits and lives were
thoroughly investigated and even
their place of residence in Washing
ton picked from a list supplied and
approved by the FBI.
But to get this bureau started
... to overcome the popular preju
dice against being fingerprinted, to
sell police officials on the advantages
of the fingerprint system in the ear
ly days, took months and months of
educational wor by FBI agents
traveling throughout the country.
Enlisted Help of Local Police.
It took painstaking effort on the
part of the bureau to build up good
will among police officials and pub
lic officials everywhere. In those
early days every agent had orders
when passing through a town to pay
his respects to the police officials
and to pass along a ‘‘message” from
J. Edgar Hoover concerning his will
ingness to help in any local investi
gation. The crux of the message
■ was “don’t forget to take finger
] prints and send them in.”
The identification division is now
housed, for the duration, in the
brand-new white stone District of Co
lumbia national guard armory. It
occupies the whole building, and has
constructed new temporary addi
tions to house the cafeteria, lounges
and locker rooms. Where it will go
after the war is a question.
Criminal identification is indispen
sable in combating crime and of
course is a most potent factor in
apprehension of the fugitive. From
the earliest annals of history, per
sonal identification of some charac
ter has been in vogue. Members of
one savage tribe were distinguished
from others through distinctive at
tire, bodily decorations, or charac
teristic scars from self-inflicted cuts
or burns. It was not until the ad
li
I
This is a portion of the Personal
Identification Form, showing the lin
gers of the left hand. The print of
each finger is also recorded sep
arately on the card, which also con
tains ail necessary written data.
vent of photography, however, that
law enforcement agencies Initiated
modern methods and built up
“rogues” galleries. The famous
Bertillon method, a system of meas
urements of certain bony parts of
the anatomy in addition to the front
al and profile photographs, was an
effective but not a positive means of
identification since it was early real
ized that one operative would take
these measurements “loose” and an
other would take them "close” re
sulting in different classifications.
This system, nevertheless, was the
best possible until the fingerprinting
method was developed in the early
19C0s. The pioneer wor was done by
Sir Francis Galton, a noted British
scientist, who discovered that no two
individuals in the world have identi
cal fingerprints, and that the pattern
remains unchanged throughout life.
In 1892 he assembled the first collec
tion of fingerprints in the world.
In 1896 the International Associa
tion of Chiefs of Police, which in
cludes the heads of police depart
ments of most of the principal cities
of this country and Canada, estab
lished a special bureau at Chicago.
This was later removed to Wash
ington and became known as the
National Bureau of Criminal Iden
tification. Its purpose was the com
piling of Bertillon records. As use
of the Bertillon system was discon
tinued the national bureau gradually
began acquiring a collection of fin
gerprint records.
FBI Took Over In 1924.
In 1924 this identification division
was placed under the jurisdiction of
the FBI and received consolidat
ed in Washington the records of both
the National Bureau of Criminal
Identification and the records of the
Leavenworth prison. More than
11,000 law enforcement agencies to
day are submitting prints to the bu
reau and more than 600 fugitives are
identified by the bureau each month.
The bureau has now on file more
than 1,200,000 prints of persons ap
plying for government positions un
der the Civil Service commission.
Comparison with criminal records
show that 7.7 per cent of these have
had a previous criminal history, or
about 1 out of 20 applicants. Through
the vigilance of the FBI these people
are barred from obtaining positions
of trust within the government.
Here’s an example of how these
requests of identification work. In
1939 the Works Projects administra
tion in New York City submitted
prints of a woman applying for a
job as housekeeper. Search re
vealed that she was arrested in June,
1933, on a first degree murder charge
and a fingerprint card sent from
Sing Sing indicated that the woman
was incarcerated at Ossining, N. Y.,
awaiting execution for murder. It is
interesting to note that after being
sentenced to execution in 1933, this
woman was somehow free six years
later.
On September 14, 1944, 29 persons
were killed In a train wreck at Terre
Haute, Ind. Twenty or more were
army air corps men returned from
overseas. Difficulty was experienced:
in identifying the bodies, but finger
prints were sent to the FBI. Ex
perts carefully checked the incom
ing fingerprints and identified eight
of them under names sent in from
Indiana. Two other prints, however,
were not identical with those of mil
itary personnel whose names were
given, but were identified as two oth
er soldiers whose names had not
been furnished.
So not nil identifications are crim
inal identifications. Missing persons
have been found, amnesia victims
identified, traffic accident victims
identified . . . for instance—
Fingerprints of an amnesia victim
from Fresno county general hospital
in California were received. The vic
tim had been asked to write on her
fingerprint card any names which
came to her mind. She listed seven
names and addresses in Gary, Ind.,
Seattle, Wash., and Charleston. W.
Va. As soon as the prints were re
ceived by FBI they were found to
be identical with a set of prints re
ceived from Portland, Ore., from a
company doing war work. In mak
ing the application the woman, of
course, had given her correct name
and this information was furnished
the police in Fresno. The woman
had no criminal record in the FBI
U1CS«
Importance of fingerprint identifi
cation of non-criminals is pointed
out when the department shows that
in the past year alone 9,000 bodies
were taken to morgues and nearly
2,000 doomed to burial in potter’s
fields because of inability of authori
ties to identify them. During the
same year more than 200,000 persons
disappeared in this country and were
sought by relatives and friends. Fin
gerprinting has solved thousands of
these tragedies and returned many
lost folks to their loved ones.
Records Benefit Everyone.
The department in this connection
points out the advantage of volun
tary, widespread fingerprinting. As
a permanent seal of personal iden
tity these fingerprint records offer in
dubitable benefits to those who take
advantage of the service.
According to Mr. Hoover, it ap
pears to him as ridiculous that if a
victim of amnesia or of a disaster
has a prior criminal record, his fam
ily will be immediately notified,
while if he has lived within the law,
his family, ignorant of his trouble,
can render no aid. This is an
ever-recurring paradox because fin
gerprinting of the criminal is the
rule, while fingerprinting of the law
abiding citizen is still the exception.
All civil personal identification
prints are kept in files separate
and apart from the criminal records
and are there available in case the
individual meets with any mishap
which makes it necessary to deter
mine his identity.
One interesting sidelight on the
criminal identification side is the
maintenance in conjunction with its
regular alias name file, an addi
tional file of nicknames. This nick
name file now includes approximate
ly 285,000 cards and is of value in
establishing the identity of criminals
who are known only by aliases
and nicknames.
It sometimes occurs that the only
clue to a particular crime is a nick
name used unconsciously during the
crime. Many of these names are
descriptive and amusing such as Ash
Pan Slim, Dill Pickle. Cream Puffs,
Ant Eater, Bughouse Bill, etc. A
number of cases have beer, solved by
coordinating these names with fin
gerprints.
Tiie main file room is now located in the great drill hall of the national
guard armory. The identification division of the FBI now occupies the
entire armory. This is a temporary arrangement. After the war a special
building probably will be erected.
Individuality and Uniqueness of Fingerprints Was
First Established in 1880 l»v British Scientists
The first known scientific observa
tion particularly relating to finger
prints was made in 1686 by Marcello
Malpighi, professor of anatomy at
the University of Bologna, Italy, who
alluded to the ridges which “de
scribe divers figures” on the finger
tips. During the subsequent years
others pointed to the “ridges” on
the finger tips, but it remained for
Dr. Henry Faulds, an Englishman
connected with the Tsukiji hospital
at Tokyo in 1880 to establish the
fact that individual fingerprint pat
terns were of very great variety,
and that they remained unchange
able.
Sir Francis Galton. noted English
scientist, established the fact that
no two fingerprints are alike, and
devised the first collection of finger
print records in 1892.
But the comprehensive system
which is the basis for that used in
this country was established by Sir
E. R. Henry, commissioner of po
lice at London’s Scotland Yard of
fice in 1901. First practical intro
duction in police work was in Sing
Sing prison in New York state in
1903. Then on September 24, 1904,
R. W. McClaughry, warden of the
U. S. penitentiary at Leavenworth,
Kan., was granted authority to fin
gerprint prisoners, and five days lat
er the St. Louis police department
inaugurated the system under su
pervision of a British officer from
Scotland Yard.
SEWING CIRCLE PATTERNS
Junior Date Frock for Summer
Smartly Tailored Button-Front
OJ
8859
11-18
Summer Date Frock
CfOR the young in spirit — a
" charming “date” frock that will
be the most wgrn, best loved of
your summer costumes. Make it in
gay floral prints or checks and
trim with brilliant ric rac.
Pattern No. 8839 la designed tor sizes
11, 12. 13, 14, 16 and 1H. Size 12 requires
3 yards of 33 or 39-Inch material; 3 yards
rlc rac to trim.
o- i'* t'* o- o- O-* ^ (v. <v. (\. (v.
\ ASK MS 4% ?
: ANOTHER I ;
? A General Quiz ?
O- (V. (V. (V. (V. (W (V. (V. (V. fv. (V. (V. (V. (V. (V. (V. (V.
The Questions
1. Based on standard time,
when it’s 12 noon in Chicago, in
Tokyo it’s what time?
2. What is meant by a woman’s
coterie?
3. What country ranks next to
the United States in population
in the western hemisphere?
4. With what type of cases does
the Appellate court deal?
5. From what source is sac
charin derived?
0. What was the White House
first known as?
7. How many islands are there
in the Philippines?
8. From what does the word
camera come?
i fit? nnau/cra
1. Three a. m. the next day.
2. Her set, or circle of friends.
3. Brazil.
4. With appeals.
5. Coal tar.
6. The President’s Palace.
7. About 7,000.
8. From the Italian word cam
era which means chamber.
Romania Expropriates and
Gives Lands to Peasants
One of the most drastic reforms
of modern times took place re
cently in Romania when the gov
ernment expropriated, without
compensation, all lands owned by
Germans and by Romanian war
criminals and collaborationists, as
well as all land in excess of 125
acres in large estates, says Col
lier’s. Among the properties ex
empted are those belonging to
churches, hospitals and King
Michael.
The land is now being divided
into farms of 12'6 acres and given
gratis to landless peasants.
Dependable Button-Front
A CRISPLY tailored button
front that is comfortable and
attractive — the sort of frock youi
can depend on all summer long.:
Easily and quickly made, it’s the|
perennial favorite in every wom
an’s wardrobe.
• • •
Pattern No. 8787 is designed for sixoa
14, 16. 18. 20; 40 . 42 and 44. Size 1«.
short sleeves, requires 3% yards of 39
lnch material. *
Due to an unusually large demand anti
current war conditions, slightly more Umw
is required In filling orders for a few of!
the most popular pattern numbers.
Send your order to: I
SEWING I’lUCLE PATTERN DEPT.
530 South Wells St. Chirac*
Enclose 25 cents in coins for each
pattern desired.
Pattern No. _Size—
Name
Address
MAKE
ICE CREAM
Af horn#-Any flavor-Dolkiout — Smooth
— No lev crytfalt — No cooking — No ro
whipping—No tcorched flovor — Eatv —
Inexpentive — 20 rrciptt In each 154 peg.
Pleat* tend this r.ii fiee foil-tit# »om
pie offer, or buy from your grocer
LonoonoenRy
Brand Homemade Ico Creom
STABILIZER
lONOONDrSRY - 1)5 HOWARD. SSNFRANCISCO 3, UUI.M
Your Baby May Have
Good Reason to Cry
After » night of lost sleep, it ift hard to
lie patient with bnby; but mayl» poor
baby Buffered from sting and burn of
diaper rash. Sprinkle ou Meiftana, the
soothing, medicated powder — relieve
this misery. Family favorite for itch of
minor skin troubles. Demand Mexsona.
of cases showed jV/
clinical improve- 'l
ment after only 1® ^
days treatment with
soretone in impartial,
scientific test.
SORETONE
Mads by McKesson I Robbins
Said with assty btck pm suits
50* and *1.00
The Baking Powder
with the
BALANCED Double Action
Clabber Girl's balanced double action makes it the natural choice for the
modern recipe ... for just the right action in the mixing bowl, plus that
final rise to light and fluffy flavor in the oven.
