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A Walking Gown in th Autumn Shad of Laf Brown Molr 611k,
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Novel Autumn
Oeatgn,
After
tht Turklh
Idea.
"LooHV Oavt
to This
Modal of Blua
Serge
the Dlatlnotlve
Name
lahkowdah.
Model Deelgnad by
Modal Daelgnad
by Lady Duff-Gordon
4
LADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lucile" of London, and fore
most creator of fashion, in the world, writes each week the fashion
article for this newspaper, presenting aB that is newest and best ia
styles for well-dressed women.
Lady Duff-Gordon's Pans establishment brings her Into close touch
with that centre of fashions
t ' , v. - '' ;
Luaile'a ravorrte Dancing Oown, Which 8he Has
Named 8paotre de la Roee (Ghoat of the Roes), In
Three Shade of Roee, with Transparent
Effecte of Point de Alanoon Lace.
Modal Designed by Lady Duff.Qordon.
Cbpnutf; ma, br "Luciu."
Street Gown of Dark Green 8arge
"Lucile" Calls TMe Coetume the
Girondin, Because It la Rami
niaoentof the French Revolution.
Modal Designed by Lady
Duff-Gordon.
A Popular Fall Coetume la le
Sentler (the Path), Deetgned of
Dark Blue Covert Cloth for the
Street.
Model Designed by Lady
Duff-Gordon.
By Lady Duff-Oordon.
THE. dominant note in the Autumn
modes aa they may be descried
more or less clearly on the borl
son of erenta la the skirt that la of nar
row, almost trouser-llke effect at the
anklea, ecarcely wider at the kneee, but
that billows from the waist line in one
wide ripple after another.
One gown, of which you see a picture
on thla pace. Is of auch distinctly Turk
Uh silhouette that 1 have given to It
the name Ishkowdah. The effect la
audacious yet graceful, aa though aome
charming girl were maaoueraillng In her
twin brothers trousers and loose Chi-neae-llko
ahlrt, yet dominating the coa
tuma by her grace and glrllshness.
Thla model, which already In Parle
baa become popular. I hare made In
dark blue and In champagne colored
aerge. The lines of the skirt are
straight, and It la so acant aa to.barely
permit a generoua step, giving the
wearer an especially feminized and al
most' Japanlzed' walk. The skirt-like
coat falls in graceful linea Just above
the' knees. It la low and square cut at
the bust line, where It Is edged with
wide plaitlngs of malihe, and at the
neck with a soft Medic! collar-of the mar
line. The sleevea are fairly full, and at the
wrifit bell-shaped.
The dominant note to which I have
referred reappears In what I have named
the Girondin, because there li that in
lta linea that suggests the nearly for'
gotten spirit of the French Revolution.
Again you aee the exceedingly narrow
aklrt frown a trifle fuller at kneea than
"Knock Knees" a Sign of Stupidity; "Bow Legs" of Brilliancy.
a FT BR an Investigation which baa lasted four
Z years Dr. Leslie Helms, the orthopedic epe-
clalisL baa convinced himself by psycholog
ical laboratory testa that persons with pigeon toes
and knock knees have a decidedly lower mental
state than normal people. Dr. Helm calculates that
about 3 per cent of all men have some slight degree
of In-pointing feet or convexities of the knees.
Not one of those who were subjected to the psychic
testa were anywhere near perfect. When examined
for their capacity to associate Ideas or to remember
quickly they all proved to be aluggieh and much
slower than the ordinary man.
Even the memory for colors and past events, the
steadiness of the muscles, the acuteness of the
senses and the control of the handa were all disor
dered, defective or much slower In the pigeon-toed.
Dr. Helm also searched the Individual with this
strange trouble for their power of recognition and
recall. Pictures, photographs, paintings and sculp
ture, as well aa familiar faces, were exposed to them.
He Is certain that not one of the pigeon-toed Indi
viduals could approach the ability of the normal
footed one In recognizing quickly and accurately the
things shown.
Although only a few persons with bow legs were
studied. Dr. Helm was amazed to find that they not
only surpassed In mental poise those with Inturned
feet or knock knees, but the bow-legged ones were
decidedly brighter thaa the average person with bis
Copyrleht, by, the Etar. Comnan;',
cantilever lega and slightly turned-out toes.
While this Investigator does not in so many word
say that all pigeon-toed men are crazy, he does not
mince matters In the slightest when he emphasizes
their woeful lack of mental perfection. He even
gives a lot of historical data to prove that no mental
giant since Moses ever bad turned feet.
Even the invalids such aa Popel, Gibbon, Milton,
Poe and similar Gargantuan Intellects, who 'were
physically weak, had no limb deformltiea
He has also found in Institutes tor the feeble
minded that the proportion of inmates with pigeon
toes is out of ail expectation. Over 68 per cent of
idiots, imbeciles and morons have turned In feet,
while there la noteworthy absence of bowed lega
Great BrltalaT r.isb'.s r.ev I
anklea. but ample In the atralght. aome
what heavy, drapery of the graduated
ripple tunic.
The coat la atralght and loose at the
back; is slightly fitted at the sides and
front The narrow shawl collar la of
corresponding looseness of effect. Thla
I'have made on dark green aerge.
In Le Sentler (the Path) Is seen the
same exceedingly scant aklrt But above
the kneee. the aklrt baa- a drapery of
three fuJl folds, one above the other and
at least' elk Inches apart. The skirt Is
part of' a model: made on princess lines,
the upper part being of the same mate
rial, depending by narrow bands from
the ahoulder and worn' over a plain
walat allp of black eatln. The coat is
full and loose, a smart touch being fur
nished by the broad belt crossing in
front beneath the bust line. To the nar
row coat collar a touch of color la given
by Its topping of brilliant Turkish em'
broidery. In which reds and yellows
predominate.
One of my favorite designs of the new
season is a dainty dancing gown which I
nave named the Spectre de la Rose (the
Ghost of the Rose). It Is built of taffeta
of the palesfr roae color. The skirt ia
very narrow and open on the right aide
to the knee over a petticoat of Point
de Alencon lace. The drapery consists
of three rows of the taffeta graduated
ffom the front to kneo length at the
back. The two upper rowa of the. scal
loped silk ar ot the pale rose, but the
Ifcwer one Is of a deeper shade, and
peeping from beneath the lower la a full
panel of a yet deeper shade.
In designing the coloring of this lovely
gown I have gone straight to nature for
my model Study the exquisite shading
of the- roae, from the deep heart of it,
graduating delicately but surely to the
pale edges of the outermost row of
petals. My home at Versailles graze
the gardena of the palace, and looking
out upon those garden In Summer I'
learn many lessons in color that T
afterwards teach to my disciple lo
drees.
The corsage of the Spectre de la Rote I
of pale ecru mallne, filled In with Point
de Alencon in front. A slight garniture
of rosea- at the girdle deepen- the at
mosphere of the rose In this; which I
regard as one of the greatest of my tri
umph. Even the crusBed girdle of the
pale rose lined wlOr the deeper shad, a;
bit of the lining turned back, 1 to my
mind' a model la the true message of
colorr.
Simple eleganeer exude from one of
the favorite model tor the street It ia
of taffeta in the early Autumn shades of
leaf brown. A little heavier than thr
taffeta worn In Bummer, It I of Beau
tiful' moire In fine, almost Invlalble
strlper, the costume having a delicate,
-never obtrusive, effect ot constant
change, and in the early Autumn ami
. light haa the effect of aunahin shim
mering on a leaf-bottomed brawn pool
In the forest.
The trf.tr t Is acant, but wider than the
more severe walking costume. A knee
length drape -y lb of chiffon edged wita
wide folds of the silk curving from the
waist Ime to the back la a gracefullr
graduated line, The npper part of the
gown is of blouse-like effect, finished:
with a small sailor collar at the back
and a- vest of maltha. The coat la loose
and straight, meeting the fold at the
back". The Impliclty of gown and coat
are deepened by rather tight aleeve.
ending in a narrow cufTon-the coat and
finished by three dainty buttons on. the
gown.
