The Omaha Sunday Bee Magazine Pagi v':.- it v r . ,-. : t . . ... - - v.... 7 .f . ' - - ( 1 is f '. av 0 ': ?tti?"i aVC-vc n'W-l A Walking Gown in th Autumn Shad of Laf Brown Molr 611k, E J By Lady PuJ Cm af - 1 ""sC-'fV ' l.-'a- (Ol ,"fv. r 4tru . 'a A' V. W .:; tf i" ' " At " 'a. . i ' Tt J t d V i : ...A j,: .. V MBTlTI- II a,C-'.' J -a;"' I Novel Autumn Oeatgn, After tht Turklh Idea. "LooHV Oavt to This Modal of Blua Serge the Dlatlnotlve Name lahkowdah. Model Deelgnad by Modal Daelgnad by Lady Duff-Gordon 4 LADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lucile" of London, and fore most creator of fashion, in the world, writes each week the fashion article for this newspaper, presenting aB that is newest and best ia styles for well-dressed women. Lady Duff-Gordon's Pans establishment brings her Into close touch with that centre of fashions t ' , v. - '' ; Luaile'a ravorrte Dancing Oown, Which 8he Has Named 8paotre de la Roee (Ghoat of the Roes), In Three Shade of Roee, with Transparent Effecte of Point de Alanoon Lace. Modal Designed by Lady Duff.Qordon. Cbpnutf; ma, br "Luciu." Street Gown of Dark Green 8arge "Lucile" Calls TMe Coetume the Girondin, Because It la Rami niaoentof the French Revolution. Modal Designed by Lady Duff-Gordon. A Popular Fall Coetume la le Sentler (the Path), Deetgned of Dark Blue Covert Cloth for the Street. Model Designed by Lady Duff-Gordon. By Lady Duff-Oordon. THE. dominant note in the Autumn modes aa they may be descried more or less clearly on the borl son of erenta la the skirt that la of nar row, almost trouser-llke effect at the anklea, ecarcely wider at the kneee, but that billows from the waist line in one wide ripple after another. One gown, of which you see a picture on thla pace. Is of auch distinctly Turk Uh silhouette that 1 have given to It the name Ishkowdah. The effect la audacious yet graceful, aa though aome charming girl were maaoueraillng In her twin brothers trousers and loose Chi-neae-llko ahlrt, yet dominating the coa tuma by her grace and glrllshness. Thla model, which already In Parle baa become popular. I hare made In dark blue and In champagne colored aerge. The lines of the skirt are straight, and It la so acant aa to.barely permit a generoua step, giving the wearer an especially feminized and al most' Japanlzed' walk. The skirt-like coat falls in graceful linea Just above the' knees. It la low and square cut at the bust line, where It Is edged with wide plaitlngs of malihe, and at the neck with a soft Medic! collar-of the mar line. The sleevea are fairly full, and at the wrifit bell-shaped. The dominant note to which I have referred reappears In what I have named the Girondin, because there li that in lta linea that suggests the nearly for' gotten spirit of the French Revolution. Again you aee the exceedingly narrow aklrt frown a trifle fuller at kneea than "Knock Knees" a Sign of Stupidity; "Bow Legs" of Brilliancy. a FT BR an Investigation which baa lasted four Z years Dr. Leslie Helms, the orthopedic epe- clalisL baa convinced himself by psycholog ical laboratory testa that persons with pigeon toes and knock knees have a decidedly lower mental state than normal people. Dr. Helm calculates that about 3 per cent of all men have some slight degree of In-pointing feet or convexities of the knees. Not one of those who were subjected to the psychic testa were anywhere near perfect. When examined for their capacity to associate Ideas or to remember quickly they all proved to be aluggieh and much slower than the ordinary man. Even the memory for colors and past events, the steadiness of the muscles, the acuteness of the senses and the control of the handa were all disor dered, defective or much slower In the pigeon-toed. Dr. Helm also searched the Individual with this strange trouble for their power of recognition and recall. Pictures, photographs, paintings and sculp ture, as well aa familiar faces, were exposed to them. He Is certain that not one of the pigeon-toed Indi viduals could approach the ability of the normal footed one In recognizing quickly and accurately the things shown. Although only a few persons with bow legs were studied. Dr. Helm was amazed to find that they not only surpassed In mental poise those with Inturned feet or knock knees, but the bow-legged ones were decidedly brighter thaa the average person with bis Copyrleht, by, the Etar. Comnan;', cantilever lega and slightly turned-out toes. While this Investigator does not in so many word say that all pigeon-toed men are crazy, he does not mince matters In the slightest when he emphasizes their woeful lack of mental perfection. He even gives a lot of historical data to prove that no mental giant since Moses ever bad turned feet. Even the invalids such aa Popel, Gibbon, Milton, Poe and similar Gargantuan Intellects, who 'were physically weak, had no limb deformltiea He has also found in Institutes tor the feeble minded that the proportion of inmates with pigeon toes is out of ail expectation. Over 68 per cent of idiots, imbeciles and morons have turned In feet, while there la noteworthy absence of bowed lega Great BrltalaT r.isb'.s r.ev I anklea. but ample In the atralght. aome what heavy, drapery of the graduated ripple tunic. The coat la atralght and loose at the back; is slightly fitted at the sides and front The narrow shawl collar la of corresponding looseness of effect. Thla I'have made on dark green aerge. In Le Sentler (the Path) Is seen the same exceedingly scant aklrt But above the kneee. the aklrt baa- a drapery of three fuJl folds, one above the other and at least' elk Inches apart. The skirt Is part of' a model: made on princess lines, the upper part being of the same mate rial, depending by narrow bands from the ahoulder and worn' over a plain walat allp of black eatln. The coat is full and loose, a smart touch being fur nished by the broad belt crossing in front beneath the bust line. To the nar row coat collar a touch of color la given by Its topping of brilliant Turkish em' broidery. In which reds and yellows predominate. One of my favorite designs of the new season is a dainty dancing gown which I nave named the Spectre de la Rose (the Ghost of the Rose). It Is built of taffeta of the palesfr roae color. The skirt ia very narrow and open on the right aide to the knee over a petticoat of Point de Alencon lace. The drapery consists of three rows of the taffeta graduated ffom the front to kneo length at the back. The two upper rowa of the. scal loped silk ar ot the pale rose, but the Ifcwer one Is of a deeper shade, and peeping from beneath the lower la a full panel of a yet deeper shade. In designing the coloring of this lovely gown I have gone straight to nature for my model Study the exquisite shading of the- roae, from the deep heart of it, graduating delicately but surely to the pale edges of the outermost row of petals. My home at Versailles graze the gardena of the palace, and looking out upon those garden In Summer I' learn many lessons in color that T afterwards teach to my disciple lo drees. The corsage of the Spectre de la Rote I of pale ecru mallne, filled In with Point de Alencon in front. A slight garniture of rosea- at the girdle deepen- the at mosphere of the rose In this; which I regard as one of the greatest of my tri umph. Even the crusBed girdle of the pale rose lined wlOr the deeper shad, a; bit of the lining turned back, 1 to my mind' a model la the true message of colorr. Simple eleganeer exude from one of the favorite model tor the street It ia of taffeta in the early Autumn shades of leaf brown. A little heavier than thr taffeta worn In Bummer, It I of Beau tiful' moire In fine, almost Invlalble strlper, the costume having a delicate, -never obtrusive, effect ot constant change, and in the early Autumn ami . light haa the effect of aunahin shim mering on a leaf-bottomed brawn pool In the forest. The trf.tr t Is acant, but wider than the more severe walking costume. A knee length drape -y lb of chiffon edged wita wide folds of the silk curving from the waist Ime to the back la a gracefullr graduated line, The npper part of the gown is of blouse-like effect, finished: with a small sailor collar at the back and a- vest of maltha. The coat la loose and straight, meeting the fold at the back". The Impliclty of gown and coat are deepened by rather tight aleeve. ending in a narrow cufTon-the coat and finished by three dainty buttons on. the gown.