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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Oct. 23, 1910)
THE OMAHA SUNDAY REE: OCTOItEK 2:1. j:uO & mots fm tie mm wwm. lit an , . aU -3&s vV -x. --r , , -w i , ; r-;?N x ; fa h - . ; . - . , , H :h . '-J. ';y ,. 1 1 irgi w . yi tyy-J y-t ' -X&k 11 few Pj y -I !t v ? IWrV ... . ... ... r :: J Oowm of black cbarmama, . ' 0 ' - ' .- cmbroldarad abont th bottom wltb . v-" .i" narrow band dou In gold and U- ii, , r -,. T - rer throsda. Tha tunio la of whitt ' I . " chiffon bordarad around tha lowar V , l Lf and down ona aids with blaok : i Si ChantUly laoa. Tola U worked -." '" -;; 1 orr with fold and aUa raad. Vi... . ,: '; ... J iMi.n Thara la otnar aolld ambroldary -. ? ' " Unwn h front, acroaa tba to of N . ' .: V , . V " i - tna eoraafa and down tna lpwar - ""s , ,--'- part of tha alaaraa. Tha low out . K m CJ v"" rnimpo and upper part of tha f. ' . . w-" iltifir ura of plain ChanUy laoa. JT J Modal from IORSMV. X, Hava rown of yaaoa eoloraa liberty aatln, mada with a sllfhtly tmlnad aitrlL Tnia U partly eavarad with a tunic of blaok moaaaallna da aolo. ntura adra of which la ombroldarad with baada In rold. aUrcr, and dull pink. A band of valrat aomawhat dazkar than tha underaklrt aztanda down tha back of tha tonlo, and Jnat above tha ambroldary la a almllar TM auaatraa are kimono and reaoh to tha elbow. Taer ahow bead ankroldar and ft wlda band of Telret. Model from JIBAUD. kAJlIS'. Special Correepondenoe.) It la T?v . 1 aa empire aeaaon. All clothea are of P nar I that date; aoma, of course, more ntf X I geratedly ao than other. If short skirts and high walsted effects are being shown In one place, then atlll shorter skirts and still higher waist lines are to be found In the next. Ona can aelect one'a dressmaker according to one'a taste for the extreme r conservative following of the mode, or whether ne baa a liking for gold and altver, lace and spangles, all that la odd and blaarra. or Just the reverse. This year there la an amusing contrast between, for Instance, tha gowna for evenlag yeir that are being ahown by 'Worth, the most conservative of all French houses, and those aeen at tha establishment f Paul Pol ret. a newcomer In the lield of fashion, who baa made his reputation by the unusual novelty f Die models. At the former place there are gowna aevera In out. gorgeous aa to materia!, heavy with embroidery, Jewels, and classlo ornaments, trimmed with priceless lace and wonderful fura. and all having a dignity of atyla that la especially characteristic of the name of Worth. There are no violent contrast of color, no queer or unexpected mingling of ma terials, no attempt at anything to attract attentloa or catch the eye. Dignity and harmony seem to be what la aought for. and that only. Aa narrow skirts and empire and dlrectolre bodice are the fashion of the winter. Worth Is showing skirts that are narrow, but not ao tightly clinging that walking In them Is a danger. Instead, they follow the lines of the figure rather more by suggestion than by doing; so actually, and most of them show a graceful, sweeping curve onto the floor at least, if not in a real train. Thesa gowns Worth veils with tunics of lace, of chiffon, or of netted silks, or they are draped with long sashes tied In the back or caught in front with ornaments that are works of art. The waists of most of Worth's evening dresses also are shortened sufficiently to comply with what Is modish, but that effect Is produced generally by folded aatln bands which softly envelop the waist from the normal line upward. Thus, while there la the fashionable shortened appearance. In reality these waiata are Just as long aa they were several seasons ago. Black and white, sometimes combined, sometimes each made up separately, are the two colora that thla establishment particularly shows, although there are gowna In royal blue. In vivid green, in all the shades of softest pink. In dashing and stunning bro cades, and In all materials and colors, too, thai are new and beautiful. Worth, however, stand tor conventionality, and In everything that Is shown there that attribute predominates. According to . him, to be odd or pro nounced is to be bad In style, and to wear gowns and wraps that nttract too much attention, except by the richness of their material. Is not done by the patrons of his establishment. Zimmerman, who Is one of the most resourceful and original drt-ssmakera In I'arls. Ii showing another model, coiihlsJttnjr of a tilmy skirt of some sort of gause In u delicate' pink blinJe. It Is made almost straight, the upper part, which Is gathered Ir.to the high waist band, being nearly as full as it Is about the he in. The bodice is perfectly plain, except for a long cloak of cnainpag-ne colored liberty aatin veiled La taupe ohlf f on. Thla shows a wide baud about the bottom brocaded in velvet newer of a shade darker taope. Tha deep yoke and sleeves are alao of velvet brocade. A band of skunk eight Inches wide trims the garment, and there are bands on the alaeves above a wide caff of roJA embroidery. The band about the neck Is somewhat wider and la finished with tvra uperb tassel of gold thread and taupe colored allk. Model from WEEKS. . shaped piece of fine lace about the neck. Over this, and the skirt as well, hangs a tunic which reaches to the knee In front and almost to the hem In the back. This tunic is of cream white tulle, embroi dered over with silver beads and finished with a fringe of the same. On the shoulders where the tunic meets there are some beautiful clasps from which hang long fringes. A the manikin walks about to xhow this cos. tume there Is a gnt of gold about the skirt which Is so Illusive that It Is scarcely to be seen, and this, cne Is amazed to tlnl. Is given to It by a pair of Turkish trousers made of gold gauze, which reach Just to the ankle and are finished with tiny frills of j;old lace. They take upt no room under the gown, are much more chlr than a petticoat would he, and for hall costumes, Zimmerman contends, there la nothing that can equal them The reversible clonk is something new in on out side wrap which nearly all the great establishments are showing, and which promlnes to establish itself .is one of the winter's favorites. It la made In vari ous materials, but the shape is generally the same. It Is a lori, loose KHinient, will h. however. Is mmie shapely by beln somewh.it curved under the arms. The ait-evps are kinn.no shapeJ ami are moderately long. Iioth sides of the garment uie finished, so that k may be worn nrst on one and then turned lnsldo out and be equally attractive on the other. ' In other words, one may have an afternoon cloak and an evening wrap all In one. and each absolutely unlike the other. It sounds like a cheap and easy way of dressing, but when one or two of these gar ments are described It will be seen that cheapness la not to be thought of In their connection. Fancy a gorgeous coat of ermine reaching to the feet, which, although not full, wraps about one most luxuriously. It U perfectly plain but for an enor mously wide ami long sailor collar of royal blue and koIJ brocaded satin and velvet. The ends of this collar reach to the waist and are finished with heavy loops nnd en. is of sold cord which form the fastening of the cloak. 1'rmto! ore turns the gar ment, and on the reverse side there Is another cloak of blue satin showing a three-quarters of a yard border in gold snd velvet of the ne shade. There ure wide cuffs of the brocade, but the collar, which Is liUse, is of ermine. It Is so perfectly made that no one would suspect that It couM serve a double purpose. Tills cloak Is also nmde In velvet showing u sable lining tr.n merit tit for a queen, the color being sine ofing mr.ri.nn. it:,l the IriuunlriK on t lie velvet ....1,1 In Ih.s expensive materials It to be seen in rallnc in dark snades. lined Willi possum !, fur of the season, and havinif fame. Also It Is made In soft camel's I. air, lined with satin, plain colored or with cashmere effects, in cloth the fa.iiilon- coliar oi me lined with velvet, and In a number of other combina tions, all smart and all tempting to a would-b pur chaser. At present there are many Indications that It la going to be a velvet season, for never have there been so many models made up of this material a now. Velvet la fashioned Into costume for the street, for afternoon and for evening wear alike, and In a most extensive range of colors. Chiffon and panne velvot have both been restored to favor and are being used In white and all the pale shades. At the opening of the Comedlo Franchise some really beautiful gowns were seen on the stage, two-thirds of them being of velvet. One, of white panne, was plain and narrow, showing no trimming on the skirt, which Just touched. Over it wus a tunic of pale blue lace of a coarse quality, which was worked over in chenille. Thn shape of this was unusual, being short and wide In front, prei'lsoly like a Masonic apron, und liani'lng in one simile, long, wide panel In the back to the hem of the skirt. In front the tunic was cut away over the corsage, showlnx only narrow lines of the lace over either shoulder, but tu the back the wide panel started below tlie neck. I'nder the arms was white panne velvet, and the sleeves iilso were of this. The girdle, which was l.lt:b, was of folds of satin of the most brilliant shade of cerise, flnlshud on the left aide of the front with a huge rosette.