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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Oct. 23, 1910)
THE OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: OCTOBER isiO. WMk MHTS tm TIE TOM WMM. jj ' If! 1 fe'CMF MW wh ' - ' Vk : rif-Ji ' : ' ; - i. VyU it - :" Wm II 1- M )i 'v -i- fv : ) ; ' ... ) . jr Oowb of tlck satin cbkrmanaa, - i . .. . - ; '' mbroidrd abont th bottom wttb I narrow band dona U g-old and ail- x J " ' rer thrda. Tha tunlo U of whita " " Ztr- chiffon bordarad around tha lowar ' V i V adg-a and down ona aid with black ' - i Sj- - ' " Cuantllly laca. Thla U worked .t ' . - . i orer with fold and ailror Jrd. V-t a.. . .. .-. . 1 rown of paaok oolorad Ubarty aatln, mada wlta a aUfhtly tralnad aklrti TkU la partly oararad with a tunlo of black moan alia da aole, ts ado-a of which la ambroldarad with baada la galA, alWar, and dull plak. A bud of t1t aomawhat darkar than tha nndaraklrt axUnda w tha back of tha toAlo, and Juat abova tha ambroid lj a almllar kaad. Tha aUavaa axa kimono and raaeh to tha slbow. Thay ahow baad ambroldary asd a wide b&md of Telyat. ktodel from JZXAUS. Down of black aatln cbarmenae, embroidered abont the bottom with a narrow band done In fold and sil ver threads. Tha tunlo Is of whit chiffon bordered around the lower edg-a and down one aid with black Chantllljr laca. This is worked orer with void d Ur reed. There is other solid embroidery down the front, across the top of the oorsaaa and down the lower part of tha sleeves. The low out nimpe and upper part of tha eleever re of plain ChnJly laoe. Model from XOBTDEAU. AJU Special Correepondenoe. It la Tj 1 empire season. All clothes are of I that data; soma, of course, more exas- W.HWI 41 Bliuri Villi kl and high watsted effects are being shown In one place, then still shorter skirts and still higher waist lines are to be found In the next. Ona can select one's drasamaher according to oue's taste for the extreme or oonservatlva following of the mode, or whether na has a liking for gold and silver, lace and spangles, all that la odd and biaarre, or Just the reverse. This year there Is an amusing contrast between, for Instance, tha gowrvs for evening wear that are being ahown by Worth, the most conservative of ail French houses, and those seen at the establishment of Paul Pot ret. a newcomer In the field of fashion, who has made his reputation by the unusual novelty ef bis models. At the former place there are gowns severe In out. gorgeous as to material, heavy with embroidery, Jewels, and classlo ornaments, trimmed with priceless Uce and wonderful furs, and all having dignity of style that Is especially characteristic of the name of Worth. There are no violent contrasts of color, no queer or unexpected mingling of ma terials, no attempt at anything to attract attentioa or catch the eye. Dignity and harmony seem to be what la sought for, and that only. As narrow skirts and empire and directoire bodice are thefashlon of the winter, Worth Is showing skirts that are narrow, but not so tightly cltnylug that walking In tbera Is a danger. Instead, they follow the lines of the figure rather more by nusgestlnn than by doing so actually, and most of them show a graceful, sweeping curve onto the floor at least. If not In a real train. These gowns Worth veils with tunics of lace, of chiffon, or of netted silks, or they are draped with long sashes tied In the back or caught In front with ornaments that are works of art. The waists of most of Worth'a evening dresses also are shortened sufficiently to comply with what Is modish, but that effect Is produced generally by folded satin bands which softly envelop the waist from the normal line upward. Thus, while thers Is . the fashionable shortened appearance. In reality these waists are Just as long ss they were several seasons ago. Black and white, sometimes combined, sometimes each male up separately, are the two colors that this establ'shment particularly shows, although there are gowns In royal blue. In vivid green. In all the shades of softest pink. In dashing and stunning bro cades, and In all materials and colors, too, that are new and beautiful. Worth, however, stands for conventionality, snd In everything that Is shown there that attribute predominates. According to him, to be odd or pro nounced Is to be bad In style, and to wear gowns and wraps that nttrart too much attention, except by the richness of their materluls, Is not done by the patrons of his establishment. Zimmerman, who Is one of the most resourceful and original dressmakers in Parts. I showing another model, consisting of a filmy skirt of some sort of gauae In u delicate' pink slinde. It Is in.ide almost straight, the upper part, which Is gathered Ir.to the high waist band, being nearly as full as It is about the hem. The bodice is perfectly piain, except lor a X.ong- cloak of enampatrne colored liberty satin yelled in taupe chif fon, Thla shows a wide baud about the bottom brooadsd In velvet flowers of a shade darker taupe. Tha deep yoke and sleeve are also of velvet brocade. A band of sknnk eight Inches wide trims the garms&t, and there are bands on the sleeves above wide cuff of rsVd embroidery. The band about the neck is somewhat wider and la finished with two superb tassels of gold thread and taupe colored silk. Model from WEEXS. shaped piece of fine lace about the neck. Over this, atjd the skirt as well, hangs a tunic which reaches to the knees in front and almost to the hem in the back. This tunic is of cresm white tulle, embroi dered over with silver beads and finished with a fringe of the same. On the shoulders where the tunic meets there are some beautiful clasps ,'rora which hang long fringes. "' As the manikin walks about to show this cos tume there Is a glint of gold about the skirt which Is so lliuslve that It is scarcely to be seen, and this, one Is amazed to find. Is given to It by a pair of Turkish trousers made of gold ?auze, which reach Just to the ankle and are finished with tiny frills of Hold lace. They take upi no room under the gown, arc much more chic than a petticoat would he, and for ball costumes, Zimmerman contends, there If nothing that can eaual them The reverslhlu clonk Is something new In nn out RlJe wrap which nearly all the great establlshmeriia are showing, and which promises to establish Itseif us one of the winter's favorites. Il If) made In vari ous materials, but the shape is generally the same. It is a lonif. loose cfir.iieiit, wnj ni however. Is made shapely by being somewhat urve.l uiuIit the arum. The siteves are kmw.no shaped and are moderately long. ISoth sides of the purment are finished, so that K may be worn first on one am then turned Inside out and be equally attractive on the other. ' In other words, one may have an afternoon cloak and an evening wrap all In one. and each absolutely unlike the other. It sounds like a cheap and easy way of dressing, but when one or two of these gar ments are described It will be seen that cheapness Is not to be thought of In their connection. Fancy a gorgeous coat of ermine reaching to the feet, which, although not full, wraps about one most luxuriously. It Is perfectly plain but for an enor mously wide and long sailor collar of royal blue and gold brocaded satin and velvet. The ends of this collar reach to the waist and are finished with heavy loops nnd en.ls of gold cord which form the fastening of the cloak. Presto one turns the gar ment, and on the reverse side there Is another cloak of blue satin showing a three-quarters of a yard border in gold and velvet of the same shade. There are wide cuffs of the brocade, but the collar, which Is huge. Is of ermine. It Is so perfectly made that no one would su'pcct that it could serve a double purpose. Tills cloak Is also ni.ide in velvet showing a sable lining. :i garment fit for a queen, the color being maroon, ar.d trie trimming on the velvet sldo being Hold. In less expensive material it Is to be seen in ratine, in dark hades. ,lned with possum, the fashion able fur of the season, and having a collar of the suine. Also it is made In soft camel's hair, lined with . satin, plain colored or with cashmere effects. In cloth lined with velvet, and in a number of other corablna tlons, all smart and all tempting to a would-be pur chaser. At present there are many Indications that It I going to be a velvet season, for never have there been so many models made up of this material as now. Velvet Is fashioned Into costumes for the street, for afternoon and for evening wear alike, and in a most extensive range of colors. Chiffon and panne velvet have both been restored to favor and are being used lu white and all the pale shades. At the opening of the Comdle Franchise some really beautiful gowns were seen on the stage, two-thirds of them being of velvet. One, of white panne, was plain and narrow, showing no trimming on the skirt, which Just touched. Over It was a tunic of pale blue lai e of a coarse quality, which was worked ever In chenille. 'The shape of this was unusual, being short and wide In front, precisely like a Masonic apron, und hanging in one stnrrle. long, wide panel In the back to the hem of the skirt. In front the tunic was rut away over the corsage, showing only narrow lines of the lace over either shoulder, but In the back the wide panel started below the nick. I'nder ttie arms was white panne velvet, ar.d the sleeves also were of this. The girdle, which was l.li;l, was of folds of satin of the most brilliant : hu.le of cerise, tint.sl.ud on the left side of the front with a huge rosette.