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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Aug. 7, 1898)
1 1 . I . _ a / t ' , ] 4 TIIE 01I11IIA. DAILY I3L T : SUNDAY , AUfIUST' / , 1898. t - III THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. II I" F 1.t'1'I : St'MMiIL P.1SI110Nl. I _ inr Iiny Iluts , tlyps ) Shoes , Ji % elry I nud hit It Mnuruing Costuutcs , t NEW YORK , Aug. 6 ; Thls is the time nt the year when the ehopper's occupation Is gone , But every woman , who hna n heart for plotbcs , Is spreadhtg her own plumes , or noting the belohgings of her feminine neighbors. a Truth to tell , there Is a very lh'elp ' dis play of sartorlnl fancies to attract atlen tlon and nothing Is of more Interest to the curlots than the emnrt outing costumes of i .women in motIrning. A skirt of ink black I pique , relieved by divers small flounces of blank lawn , edged with white lace and i , over ) rumo headed by a row of narrow. n'ldte braid , Is sure to make a striking point In any landscape. ) Vith such a garb - b lnenl the mourner8 nssumo white pique coats the broad revers , collar and cuffs of black pique , and thls goes over n black ' muslin shirtwalst , finely striped In while. R'omon who arc not mourners wear short vhlta twill coats , faced on revers , cuffs and collar tyilli a bright soIh1 color. ' Mntirulny ; lints. illnck and white not straw , brnlded In + sailer shnpe , Is the cholcp hat among those i who are Ih summer black , and instead of the sailor or familiar form a new variety is conspicuous. The French sailor it is called , having a rather smnll high crown rind a brlm'thht is wider than dsunl , In- cllnlns distinctly dawn toward the face. The ribbon that clasps the crown fa tied to one side and two narro + l little streamers flutter over the right car. On the * hole these are more becoming than the hard and j , fast Ilttlb head box We have worn so long , and united femininity seems to favor saitors of mixed straws. A ploln white round straw , with a black or white ribbon band , Is falling out of good grace , and it there is any gcneralizgtion yet to be Indulged ht with regard to trimmed hats it Is to comment on the multiplication of the small tall shapes. Women , whose clothes arc significant of the future , certAinly do not wear wide headpieces. They will tell you that the queer pretty crown shaped affairs of tulle they go callltig'In are Peter the ( treat hats ; but so far you gon'tt lntr ) one , of these at the ualillners Explain what you want and she will smile a significant by and by smile , ri i r r. j r , . z ' rr ' 'P . .tk - 1 : - . - 9' r , a ' > \ \ , i1\ . / \ . ' ' - _ .1 Jci , A r 'i 1 u Rt ' tf .A I'IUNCESS GOWNN which plainly enough Indicates that this and all the other now styles of toques must be waited for until the autumn. Meantime , if you wish to run shoulder to shoulder with the fashions , you can adopt a pretty black Inca Napoleon toque , set far back on your mend and waving with large light plumes. Very far down en the ears come the points of this lace or lulla cap , but to most women the effect is becoming , I.cghurus to the Pare. Tlmero Is n pretty plague of white leg. horns raging In tlm country settlements this month-Wide brimmed children's shapes anal ldvarhnbly trinied one of two ways , Ellhcr a scarf of mousseline brilllante , striped with many rows of narrow yellow lace , ruffled on , is wound and knotted about the crown , or a waltenu wreath of pink roses encircles one-half of crown and law hanging brim , t + 9lli tufts of green grenadine ribbon cone' pleting the decoration , One would think the period ° of dotage was falling earlier than hitherto on our woneh , if the wearing of these babyish heats can be taken as an In. dication Mothers of well seasoned dattgli' tors pin those while and rose confections , lit for school girls , on their grizzling heals and go forth content , conspicuous and rldlculous. Besides the leghorn flats , women , who gather on green lawns at the thresholds of club housca of bright afternoons , display rather widish bats of deep yellow broom THE IMPERIAL HAIR HEDE ERa o for Gray or Iileaehod Hair Ia' the oniy proptaratioq before tho'pubiio today that pasores ( GI'Ay Hntr to its original color , or that gives to Bleached Hair that uptform shade and lustre without in some manner injurIng - Ing the scalp , the halt' or tie qep- eral'1ieilth , Sevin olora cover all' shades , I'rlce , 11.50 a td lllreo tines the amount , $7.00. Sole Munufactarers and Pattgttetn , An aerial Chemlcul M'f'g Co. , 292 Fifth Avo. , N. V. Per sale Itt Omens uy ltlcnardson Co. Drue r Sherman & McConnell Drug Co. , Applled by all hair dressertl. 1513 Dodge Bt , straw , fancifully trimmed with brown , gold and green field grasses , a dab of lace and maybe a knot of ribbon. The all straw list , though , is looked upon as the most distinctly fashlonable head covering one can wear , and Its vogue Is strong with those who display very fetching organdies , muslhns , law'm cross bars and such like extravagant simpllcitkl { , uuslhi ixtrLI nnees. Except n silk velvet dress trimmed with sable , there Is scarcely another costume quite so costly as an all white muslin , for muslin brilllante is what the monitors of fashion have adopted , This Is Swiss with a silk' warp , and only the lower halt of the bodice and upper half of the skirt nro over undo of it. The sweet white gown calls for a deep flounce of tamboured cream net , and then on the tool of this must be close set muslin rumen , nil edged with narroww soft white grosgrain ribbon. At back and front the skirt must sweep the floor in order to bell out like the open petals of a lily. Tight white net sleeves require slmsvers of little ribbon-edged rumes falling over the knuckles , and to cap this modish climax a big nosegay of white sweet peas should find lodgmenton the left shoulder. IIen Itchii $ I''notw'u nr. There Is always a deep laid plot behind every apparently inexplicable whim of the changeful feminine toilet. Whosoever will take especial notice , at any swarming of pretty , human butterflies , can easily guess why long skirts have been nominated in this seasob's bond of fashion. A woman whose gown Is a couple of Inches too long in front is obliged , many , many times in an hour , to daintily lift up the front brendths , In order that she may nut trip over , While so doing she does expose perhaps a trifle more of her green or grep suede gypsy shoes than than one would ordinarily , or thus , by this artless maneuver , call public attention to her Venetian slippers , both styles of footgear - gear being eminently worthy of display and admiration , Agypsy shoe is mndo of green glace kid , with a low heel , a square toe and a chased sllvot buckle , connecting two strapy that cross high on the Instep. Very often a pretty pattern is cut or pressed Into the leather , and green silk hose , exactly matching the shoe , are worn with ihla tidy slipper. Venetian sandals are assumed Chiefly at night , for dances and hunters. Their black satin vamps are cut aJ low as possible over the toe , whl'sh Is rouudt'd , and the heel is gilded , to harmonize with the delicate geometric - metric lines of gold embroidery that are fretted rut over the black background. Occasionally - casionally one sees worn with these black silk stockings , heavily Interwoven with gold threads , but an unpleasant susplclon lingers that this typo of hosiery never can be permitted - mitted to visit the wash tub. Most sensible and becoming of all the summer shoes seen so far are the oxford ties of willow calf , Women who coast that nil summer ion ; they wear nothing more costly than white duck and pique skirts anti shirts , -who cut these same skirts ankle short and who have discarded stiff linen collars for soft pique stocks , have taken the willow calf shoe to their hearts ns wohl as their feet. They er- toll Its merits far over the virtues of piG skin , yellow seal skin and Russlan leather and invariably lace their new tics with leather thongs , In place of silk lacers , Stmnler Je + t els. That woman errs who adds to her toilet by day any undue amount of jewels , Last winter mock stones , elaborate belt slides and fanciful chains and pins flashed forth from every fair caller , theatregoer or even pedestrian. With the summer this habit has altered and though semi-precious stones are as popular as ever , the cheap pretty make-believe in an easily tarnished setting , has gone sileptly out in the dust pan. In a gathering of two hundred women an a casino or country club house piazza the jewels displayed will only be seen at Intervals - tervals , and those nro very apt to be genu- lne. An exception must be made in favor of pearls. The machine made Imitation of the oyster's product wreathes many fair throats , but a small , very white pearl is the kind usually adapted. Numbers of women have a fad for collecting - lecting and wearing eccentric pearls , that is , In shape or color. These are real , however - ever , and n goodly number comes from our own rivers In the west. One of the now fa' vorito ways of utilizing large irregularlyy formed pearls is to string three on a very tine golil thread. The thread is long enough to pass around the throat , tie under the chin and have two ends hanging far about two or three inches , At the point where the thread ties one large pearl is 11xed , while two others finish oft the ends of the fine chain. A large queerly shaped black , yellow and pink pearl is considered the most appropriate combination for such a necklace - lace , else for a chain similarly worn on the arm , Almost as lovely as the true gems women wear are the sequins , cut from pink , white and smoked pearl , that glitter mi some cf the very new gowns. It does not repttro , a visit to a fashion oracle to prophesy that shell sequins will command a high place in trio estimation of the well dressed in the months to come. Nettling yet produced in jet can equal the iridescent beauty of these small and large disks , cut from ums- ae1 , conche and oyster shells , highly polished - ished , and fastened to the satin or net by a tiny hook In time back o' tack sequin , Wilt : this Idealized and glittering wampum - pum , flowers , leaves and fanciful pAUerns are outlined , and on the very ' .plendid gowns the designs are filled lu with heading - ing or etnbroltlery , So far only a little of the ahell sequin work has been seen , and that , he/ng / a direct importation , is enormously - mously expensive , but it la safe to reckon that the price will come down as soon as a large quantlty of the new' trimming is brought over. As the vigilant cat observes the hole where the mouse went In , so must the carefully dressed woman watch the skirts of her sister in fashion , hr order to be ready for the next demonstration in drapery , A motion is undoubtedly - doubtedly being made in favor of turning what are now flounces into loops and falls of material , so soon as heavier goods than muslin and foulard come into use. Even the midsummer suits of cloth have braided fronts , detached from the skirt and falling from the hips to below the knees in acute or rounded points , They' are chic enough in effect , while many of the volles and dell. Bate bareges are twitched up on the hips , to cast wrinkles toward the feet and take away from the exact plainness of the skirt that has no aalvatlon to the w'ay of rumes , ° Illurtnatlnos of 1' nshlnns , Conclusions galore and very trustworthy ones as la' what the mondaines are wearing of an evening can be drawn from the five figures of ball and dinner costumes given here. From slipper to toe to topmast curl these sketched beauties are synonymous with the best that le appearing at any one of the largo watering places. Thu first toilet In the row Js a twlllght irah ; satin , cut la prlncess fashion , and boasts one of the novelty bodices. For all its decoration this dress depends on wisely administered designs in smoked and pink pearl sequins and on a shower flounce of palest green chiffon , tapering to the waist line and from the waist to spreading tullnese below the knee. la this instance they hair Is dressed after the inst orders from Parts , That is , very high on the head in a small curly tuft that is braced by two bands of pearls. Not less refreshing , for its departure in detail tram all well copied modes , is the second design. The taffeta silk skirt of this subject is of a popular color known ns violet and silver , That is , a pure violet shot with silver and its rent' brendtba tied flounced hp to the waist with white muslin brilllante. Draped over the top of the low cut body is n scarf of white muslin , wdle ) the shoulder straps are formed of a series of gold cameo brooches , set about with pearls. A lraihed'dinner gowh of white satin is showed in the third figure. Garnishment in the form of white Limerick lace is displayed in a fan drapery on the long rear folds of satin and 'a similar arrangement of lace on the body Is caught with a jeweled pin at the wnist line , ' A suggestion in evening wrapa is nlfordttd by the fourth figure. here we have the usual shawl shape and the wrap is made either of satin or while summer weight broadcloth with a satin flounce on the edge. Full frills of silk muslin line the high col. bar and a kerchief of the same falls over the shoulders. A simple study In while swiss is offered by the last figure. Flounces edged with narrow white satin ribbon are set on pander fashion , a bunch of yellow roses Is fastened amid the front drapery of the bodice , while ghlllinga of narrow yellow ribbon form a . N. ; -T t , s' ' ° , : , 1 . t , . J r , u f ' ; c t , i i . r , .r ' 1\ \ _ 1.1 .1 ' . ? , 1 , , N1 ' ti , , y J M , , t + . , % ' " a z 1 FROCK FOR A LITTLE MISS OF 10. ' FULL DRESS FOR YOUTH OF 1 . . SEARS. series of wired loops that pass over the arms and shoulders , A charming mode Is lhnt for little boys who 'dress for the evening in either white from top to toe or in white save the small coat cut Ilko the father's dinner coat. Such at least 1s the mode for young gentlemen who are in schools preparatory for the ccl- lego career and the white is duck. While I canvas shoes and a high turn-aver collar with a white silk four in-hgml is the proper arrangement , while mothers who guard the good form of their son's clothes no longer ' part their hair in the middle , 1VOIIIN AND IIIt1C-,1-iIILAC. Some lotnhle Collections unit Collectors - lectors of , tutlgnes. Summer time is the lean season for the dealer in bric n-brac. Tlii is because the women are out of town , for it is by the might of the novly developed feminine lava for collecting antiques , backed by the ( em- mine dollar , that the keeper of the curiosity shop has become the most pompous , prosperous - perous tradesman on the block , lie used t ) be about the furtherest underdog In the business nf buying and selling , but lmia boom began about six years ago , It hs been a rising boom ever since and ttp gratefully admits that the women did it all , lie can prove it by showing you on his books a dozen feminine for every masculine name , "It was the ultra fashionable women wlto went in for antiques anti brlc-a-brae first , " said one dealer , who does a'whirling business - ness in the winter , ' , They and the actresses who grow rich are our most valued patrohs and the shrewdest and most intelligent buy era , too , though feminine-like they exhibit very marked eccentricities In selecting hnd purchasing. For example , it is rarely we find a worms who interests herself In more than one speeles of brie-a-brae at a time. Then , too , true to their sex , they dedrly love to bargain , to hammer down the price of everything they' buy to the lowest possi ble figure and tune-tenths of our customers wont'blty at all until they have hail the article under discussion sent honte , to try its effect among the remainder of theta be- longings. But the specialty system is what exerts the largest influence on the woman who treasures antiques-lo be known And envied for having the finest collection of this or that particular style of plate , for Vernls Martin or Sheraton furniture , for Fifteenth century tapestries or Florentine carved oak is the true goal of her ambition. I'rofitable customers as they prove in the rlong run , the women arc not on this very account easy to deal with. They are so hpt to know whereof they buy , they are keen- eyed , Incredulous , anti among them are recognized authorities on every spegleA of brie-a-brac , who nre as quick as hawks for detecting the true from the false , Now , when It cones to tapestries and French furniture - niture of other. days , a dealer must rlso early in the morning to get ahead of Miss Hewett , the ox-mayor's daughter. She was one of the first women in New York to go In for this sort of thing nail in her two spedlalties her ileclslon is valued as that of a professional expert , From an artistic and technical standpoint she know's pretty much all there Is to know of the famous tapestries - tries in this country and Europe , besides herself possessing one of the choicest collections - lections in America , td which she adds from time to time , Next after Miss Hewett I doubt if there Is a woman for whom brlc-n-brac. dealers cherish a deeper respect than Miss Elsie de Wolf. Years before the taste for souvenirs of other ce tunes was culti'atad at 'all , Miss de Wolf slowly and carefully gathered up nut of shops in New York and Paris bits of oil French and Spanish paste , odd examples - amples of gold and silver work ( n jewelry , combs , rings , buckles , ' etc and then she added to this a really splendid array of fans , , Her possessions of seventeenth and eighteenth century paste alone could hardly be' matched now oulakle a European museum - um and now that this ardor for collecting 1.ai gr tsn so earnest , the value of her array of antique jewelry has increased to the proportions of a small fortune. There are numbers of women who would gladly exchange - change their dlnmond tiaras and necklaces for her ancient imitation atones , but fine haste , though the thing most desired by the feminine collectors today is the most dimcult article to procure , It. Is Mrs. Oliver Delmont who comes oft. chest to the shops of bric a-brae dealers with a fashionable friend to piss Judgment on some piece of mahogany which the friend has under consideration , for Mrs. Delmont is one of the few persons who can literally , when blindfolded , put her hands on a piece of this wood and tell In an instant whether it is out and good or new anti green , A part of her gifts from 'her parents at her marriage - riage were wonderful sets of Mahogany bedroom - room and dining romp furniture , taken from their old home in the south , With this as a starter she began .to buy good mahogany here anti there , until the dealers iii antiques , learning of this taste , fell into the way of sending her word when any special prlte cattle into their hands. As a collector she is unique among women , for ate never disputes putes a price. She prefers mahogany from the south , and , after carefully exmnlnittg a chair or table , passing her while lrnnils caressingly over the wood , she puts down the first price named , of drops the whole matter then and there. Another equally inte111gent and delightful collector , front the dealer's standpoint , is Miss Matld Adams , whose taste is exelusiv'ely for miniatures , Miss Adams is not so well known to the trade , though , as n tall , gray- ltalred woman who always looks over the last bits of old English pinto one cony have in , Inquires if any relics of famous actresses have turned up , and who has nil an Irish woman's gettiua for blarney when alto wants to hammer down a set price. This is Miss Ada Rchan , who -hiss put thousands of dot- tars into these -two fads of hers. In England she has got together relics of the Siddons , IYltty dive , Womngton and Rachel that are worthy of a place In a museum and her collection - lection of plate fairly overflows both her New York and English homes , A strange development has come about in our trade since women have cultlvnted a taste for bric-a-brat. Prior to this new interest of theirs we never had entployed women as traveling buyers for us through the country , but in tire south and New England - gland , whence our best stock comes , our most valued and expert buyers are two young women , They were both of then country girls , in out-of-the-way districts , looking for the means of earning a living. An inspiration came to them to work tha rich field of antique furniture , brasses , cera- mice , etc. , stored in the farm and plantatlon hoUses of the neighborhood. So cleverly did they put through their project and such valuable steele do they cou- triy'e to lay hands on that they command their ow n wages , even in the very depths , of summer , when all other professions , save that of the bric-a-brac buyer , is flatter than a stale griddle cake. Two DOV.tL U.tTCll M. ' IU ltS. Iti , nlry Ilet weer Victoria of Englnud nod Lutsa of Dennutrk. Queen Victoria is the chiefest of them. Site conies honestly by her match-making knack-Which Thackeray says inheres in all good women. In the life settlement of her own younglings - lings the queen was much hampered by religious - ligious considerations. After she had secured - cured the crown prince of Prussia for her eldest daughter she was a sort of hymeneal Alexander , weeping for more Protestant princes to conquer. As the temporal head of the English church it would never , never have done to have her sons and daughters go oft into Catholicism , or even the Greek church. The Dritish taxpayer and the "nonconformist conscience" would lave made a pretty patbar over such a thing. That disposed of various matrimonial pa. ' tentlalilies among continental royalties. The prince of Wales may have made a love match-hut it is beyond question that it was her Lutheran , faithm more than her beauty and charm which recommended Alexandra - andra of Denmark. The nation might have grown turbulent and heady at the prospect of a Catholic future queen. At any rate the reigning queen did not choose to risk it then any more than she chose to do it thirty years later , when time luckless duke of Clarence fell so madly i love with the beautiful Princess lichen d'Or- leans. Alfred , duke of Edinhurgh , now duke of Snxe-Coburg , handsomest , sttngicst and most gifted of the queen's children , suns ntan- aged to mate exactly to her mlud. : lo was sent to St. Petersburg-of course there w + .s no talk' of wife hunting-and so captivated the Russian emperor's daughter nothing would do her but to marry halm , although the marriage ran counter to every line of of Russian policy , interest and tradition. Grand Duchess Marie was her fathu'c idol -he could gainsay her nothing. Rut for hits ant moiy taking off by an nnarrhtst bomb it s unlikely time relations between the two countries would ever have reached their present tension , In matching imer grandchildren the queen has had a very much freer hand , There she could leave out of account the non'conforrn- lot cosclence. blow well she has realized the tact may ho gleaned ( roan this Incomplete pleto reckoning of thrones present and MIDSUMMEIt UALL GOWNS. , , v nr ! w . A e A .t G w t o r./ . t % 1 t ; , /0 At t 4 r tir ; ( - ' . , , t A/IL p s , 1 t t'a c' \ ' . ' 4" I' I ' \\'J2- \ rr : ) ,1 . i # LIW' ' ' - . \ I'V M V AIe -l tc se ; ; ' 1 l ( < I , r prospective , filled by her descendents. Emperor - peror tVillimn is her grandson ; his sister , I'rinreas Sophie , will one day be qucen of Greece , unless Greece gels out of the way of having queens , Emperor V'Illiatn has six sons , ono of whom is slated to marry the young queen of 11o11and , Falling a Prussian prlwee , 1Vllhclmina may be mated with one of her English cousins , who are the queen's grandsons , children of time dead Prince Leopold. Their mother , a princess of 15'nideck Pyrmont , refused old King 1VII- Ilam of Ilolland , who turned for consolation to her sister , the present queen regent Even should au enrlhqunke engulf the six young Prussian princes , Vlctorln's blood would hold the ttrrone , I't'Ince bleary in not merely her grandson , but nrnrrteti to her granddaughter , Ircno of llease. Time llc'pe princelings Indeed hate been trump cards for the royal match maker. Princess Elizabeth abeth is a itussinn grand duchess , with only three lives , none at then ( robust , betwcetm her lumsbantl nud the throne. It was by her help-she is witty , mud beautiful , and just the least bit wicked-that Queen Victoria was enabled to make Princess Mix , Tsarina. The Tsar Nicholas , an Impassive and somewhat - what cold blooded ymtng person , w ns deep In forbidden toils , Alix herself , poor as princess - cess could be mid willful as she wan beautiful - tiful , did not care to have greatness thrust upon her , along with an indifferent husband - band , But grnndmnmmn persisted-so the wedding came oil-and ( lint in spite of a heap of diplmnatie effort to prevent it , Of the half-Russlan Edlnhurgh princesses ono is queen of Boumantu-at least fee so long as ltoumnnla will tolerate her new Ilolteuzollern king. The other is grand duchess of Hesse-laving married her cousin , time Grand Duke Louts-and repented - pented it rather bitterly , The grand duke. dons of Hesso and Saxe Cahurg are , far size and revenues , hardly wbrth reckoning , but their possessors cnn hold up their heads with time greatest rulers of Europe. Opportunity considered , Queen Louisa of Denmark has distanced Victoria in ( lie matter of match-making , Sha was t.tid'hle aged before her husband began to reign- she had been poor always ; she was neither brilliant nor beautiful-beyond all chat her realm was a brunimngem second-rnta sort of kingdom. Nothwithstandhmg , Otte of her daughters , Princess Dagaiar , w'as eznrln + ; one of her grandsons is czar of oil the ltus- sias ; her daughter Alexandra will be queen of England ; her third daughter , Thyra , duchess of Cumnberlnnd , is mistress of the greatest private fortune in Europe. Of her sons , the crown prince , who will reign after his father , married one of the enormously rich llourhon princesses ; the second of them , Prince George , married a itusslan grand duchess and became icing of Greece. Thus It will be seen tint through n progeny tar less numerous Queen Louisa can fairly reckon thrones with Queen Victoria. In the final accounting , when the balance sheets of ages come to adjustment , it wlll be not a little curious to discover how far the personal equution , as represented by these two arch match makers , goes ahead of the wipes of statesmen and the deep- laid schemes of diplomacy. SItE SA mIJ'n ' t'rrll 1'I.tni. tIissnurl t'ommnn Who lirnved I'eril lu the Frozen North , Mrs. Magnojla Hedge of Mnryville , Mo. , divides with Lieutenant Peary's svife the honor of having been nearer the north pole than any other living ci Ilized woman. When the lieutenant sailed for the nortlilnnd to 1893 he took Mrs. Hedge with him. Previous - vious to that time she had been his stenographer - rapher anti was much help in getting up a book giving his experiences during his first trip , The work was not flnished when he was ready to start a second time and Mrs. Hedge readily accepted his offer to accompany - pany the second expedition , during which Peary intended to push thin book to compbe tlon , Sha Is o1 opinion that the daring explorer - plorer will never return alive from the trip which begun a few weeks ago , holding that he 1s not now strong enough to stand the terrible fatigue and privation Inseparn- ble from such a journey. "The last time I saw him ; ' says Mrs , Hedge , "was in Iowa last summer. I did not think lie was strong enough , but lie laughed at my fears. Ills greatest danger is that he taken no account of difllculty , His daring almost cost him his life several times on his last trip. When he started inland - land with fifty dogs and when he arrived where he bad started tram ha had but one. I think ho has injured his health considerably - ably in his two former trips. Of course , he doesn't concede tlrnt. IIe insists that he is as strong as he ever was and when I talked with him lie appeared to ho feetly confident that he would find the pole on his next trip , which he was planning then. In our conversation , Lleutomant Peary said ho thought Ire would be gone this time not less than three , and possibly five years. Of course , I am greatly Interested in the result of the expedition. Mrs. Peary was with bier husbnnd an both his former trips , but she could not go with lint title time on account of t little one that has been born to them recently. She , her nurse and I were further north then than any civilized white women have ever been , We were between 000 and 700 miles from the pole , Mrs. Cross died noon after her re- turn. She was about 00 years old mnd the long exposure proved to ho too much for her. Consequently Mrs. Peary anal 1 are the two hiving civilized women who have been nearest the pole ; ' Mrs. Ilodgo does not think Andrea is alive , if he were she feels confident word would have been had from him ore now , "The balloon , " oho says , "has not yet been made practical enough as a means of lrausporla- tlon in searching for the poles , Though 1 hardly expect that Lieutenant Peury will over return olive , I believe he has a batter chance of reaching the polo than either Andrea or Wellman. The last named bins u party with him that is too large. The larger the puny the more provisions must lie taken along and the more progress is impeded , " Fit IVOLOUS CU IhAN IIILLES. Knorr' More of L'onipleslon I'ovvder ' 1'htva of u nIcInir Powder , "The belles of the island often bedeck themselves with f tellies in lieu of costlier but paler jewel lights , " writes Edwnni Page Gaston describing limo sights to bo seen "Up and Down a Cuban Street" In the August Woman's home Companion. "These insects are nearly tour times as large as nro limo 'lightning bugs' In the United States and emnlt a beautiful glow from their breasts and underwings , The young women dearly hove to Imprison them in line gauzy folds of their summerland costumes and enmesh them in time hair in mock car. onets , Sometimes u senorita will wear a brilliant firefly or two imprisoned 1n a tiny cage of gold or silver wire hanging as a bangle - gle to her bracelet , It is an astonishing sight to see u light-bedecked southern beauty shimmering iii soft night as it clad In a thousand gems , but having no other adorn' anent titan this economical one of firelies. The poor use theta in a more practical way for lighting their houses by putting them under wire screens-or in boties { , and they prove qulte'succesetul in ibis otllce of uUlly. At one ( line the laws of Spain forbade the poor li Cutts using any other means for house lighling than fireflies , and the practice is still a common one , long after ( hale strange law lies been abolished. "Tine bite of the women of tire upper classes is a very narrow one and the average girl tiaa little else than marriage to look forward to , It behooves her to make an early marriage , too , whltle ( ho charms i of youth abide , for she la likely to begin lc fade at 30. Handsome natrons are iafre quent , as in all tropic lands , 11or mother teacbes her very little else than in the way of personal accomplishments , and the iteil rtiiIt 1. Ihat6. . el. a.- . . , I.t 1.-r a great deal more regarding cohplexlott powder than she does of baking powder , and her lack of other useful kttowledga is in much the seine proportion , "The young men 'play the bear' In their love-makings as they do in nil Spanish countries , find one will often see a hove- taken youth standing In the publle street far weary hours before the house of his chosen one , patietttly swatting time ( line when rho parental consent shall open the door to hlm , ) ' ' ' . 1tO1'A1 , 'I'hIi.1SttiIIS. ' "J" 1'nlunbic Jetvris 1 + uti t Ity lteIetiimg ( tit eau s. When a London dealer lu precious stones is eommmrtled to Windsor or Osborne he finde in time giteon n very shrewd anti intelligent - telligent purchaser. She knows dtatnmuls like an expert and buys like one , She owns a nnrvolous green diamond that has hover t been set , and furthermore she has it her fingers' end the history of every notable stone iii Europe now In the possession of royalty. 'Queen Margaret of Italy owns next to the ex-queen of Hanover the finest neck. lace of pearls in existence , She does not , like her deposed rnjesty of Hanover , pws seas a six-foot string of these lovely bends , every one an abnotulo nmalclr hi shape and color , but so extensive nud ro precious nro her pearl ropes ( lint her mnlda.are ohilged to wear it porllmr of the collection all the while , 1n artier to assist the queen in keep- lag the gems litre , lustrous mind healGty r u , . .ctt1Va d ry I 4 : a b . f y. \ . = ' i'M ? k'i a 4JI ) l A FRILLED OVERSKIRT. r by constant contact with warns human flesh. It , is King Ilmnbert who buys time pearls for his wife , anti he is , like Queen Victoria , an expert in jewels. The queen of Austria owns the greatest emerald in the world and a neci loco of emeralds that is quite unrivaled. They , like Margaret of Italy's pearls , are now crown property , The empress of Russia wears next after Queen Victoria ( he largest dinmond and rubles of surpassing splendor , but all of these belong to the nntion , though the richest and most varied aggregation of proclaims - claims stones are owned by ( tie Russian church. Not all the queens of Europe own jewels to half the value of those act hi time statues , crosses , altars and vestments at the cathedrals of Moscow or St. Peters. burg , Thnt quiet , domestic Iatiy , queen of Dres den , enjoys the ownership of four sapphires equal in size and beauty to time one that glows in the crown of England , and the favorite wives of the elan of Persia and the sultan of Turkey wear turquoises the like of which no western queen cnn boast i'f ' Mrs. Langtry at one time owned the most t , , ' v , perfect eat of turquoises In Europe , but libr / nackhace and bracelets tvcra sold at length and the finest stones canna to America , The thtchess of Westmnlnslor still wears , how ; over , the largest flawless turquoise owned by any private individual , ( ho duchess of Sutherland poeeesses ( ho only complete necklace of hunch penrls , and ( t is said. by jewelers that Mrs , Patter Pnluer's star eappbires are still unrivaled- ) 1' erliltllne Bersonnls. Louise AI , Elroy is noting as press agent for two theaters in Masenchusette and is believed to be time only woman in the country - try occupying smith a position. Miss ilnrrlet Dothan of Odessa , Mo. , recently - cently graduated tram the ltunsas City College - lego of Pharmacy and was nwarded rho gold ( Coutiaued eu Fifteenth Page. ) Ctlnl.u A'r ItAS'r. A Chroalu Inv'ulld 'I'huught to be Ilnurnhle , ' Mrs , Marie Hanson , of Nloliull , Win , , was n chronic invalid whose case excited much attention , In a recent letter to Dr , Ilarlmumm , s h o writes as follows ; 9' ' 9 Ilad been troubled - bled with dyspep- sin f o r many , , years and was very . Inuclu reduced. I " vvas Ueatod by my t . nearest physicians , but only for a lit- ' + tie time did they . :4 : ' , help mo. 1 seemed to b a growing woreo instead of better. I had that tired feeling and suffered awful distress in may stomach , i would often soon hungry , but when I ate , no matter how little , it caused me such distress ( lint I was often wicked j enough to wish myself dead , About two years ago 1 lied disease of the kidueye and womht , I was In a-weak , rtervbua'condItlon and began to have dreadful palpltatlon of time heart , I was conlla&l to lho 'bed , 1 P had given up all hope of ever being well agettm , I saw an ativcrtisement in a newspaper - J paper of a similar case having been cured by ( tie use of Dr Ilurtman's remedies , I conmencod taking the medicine , I found relief when i bad taken the first bottle. Now I lava taken seven bottles of I'e ru na and two of Man-a-lln. 1 thank you for your adyicu and I am glad I can say that I am well now. I have been well for one year. I can cat and drink , eleep sad work without afterwards suffering. " Bead to Dr , llartman , Columbus , 0 , , for