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t ' , ] 4 TIIE 01I11IIA. DAILY I3L T : SUNDAY , AUfIUST' / , 1898.
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III THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN.
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F 1.t'1'I : St'MMiIL P.1SI110Nl.
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inr Iiny Iluts , tlyps ) Shoes , Ji % elry
I nud hit It Mnuruing Costuutcs ,
t NEW YORK , Aug. 6 ; Thls is the time
nt the year when the ehopper's occupation
Is gone , But every woman , who hna n
heart for plotbcs , Is spreadhtg her own
plumes , or noting the belohgings of her
feminine neighbors.
a Truth to tell , there Is a very lh'elp ' dis
play of sartorlnl fancies to attract atlen
tlon and nothing Is of more Interest to the
curlots than the emnrt outing costumes of
i
.women in motIrning. A skirt of ink black
I pique , relieved by divers small flounces of
blank lawn , edged with white lace and
i , over ) rumo headed by a row of narrow.
n'ldte braid , Is sure to make a striking
point In any landscape. ) Vith such a garb -
b lnenl the mourner8 nssumo white pique
coats the broad revers , collar and cuffs of
black pique , and thls goes over n black
' muslin shirtwalst , finely striped In while.
R'omon who arc not mourners wear short
vhlta twill coats , faced on revers , cuffs and
collar tyilli a bright soIh1 color.
' Mntirulny ; lints.
illnck and white not straw , brnlded In
+ sailer shnpe , Is the cholcp hat among those
i who are Ih summer black , and instead of
the sailor or familiar form a new variety
is conspicuous. The French sailor it is
called , having a rather smnll high crown
rind a brlm'thht is wider than dsunl , In-
cllnlns distinctly dawn toward the face.
The ribbon that clasps the crown fa tied
to one side and two narro + l little streamers
flutter over the right car. On the * hole
these are more becoming than the hard and
j , fast Ilttlb head box We have worn so long ,
and united femininity seems to favor saitors
of mixed straws. A ploln white round
straw , with a black or white ribbon band ,
Is falling out of good grace , and it there
is any gcneralizgtion yet to be Indulged
ht with regard to trimmed hats it Is to
comment on the multiplication of the small
tall shapes.
Women , whose clothes arc significant of
the future , certAinly do not wear wide
headpieces. They will tell you that the
queer pretty crown shaped affairs of tulle
they go callltig'In are Peter the ( treat hats ;
but so far you gon'tt lntr ) one , of these at the
ualillners Explain what you want and she
will smile a significant by and by smile ,
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.A I'IUNCESS GOWNN
which plainly enough Indicates that this and
all the other now styles of toques must be
waited for until the autumn. Meantime , if
you wish to run shoulder to shoulder with
the fashions , you can adopt a pretty black
Inca Napoleon toque , set far back on your
mend and waving with large light plumes.
Very far down en the ears come the points
of this lace or lulla cap , but to most women
the effect is becoming ,
I.cghurus to the Pare.
Tlmero Is n pretty plague of white leg.
horns raging In tlm country settlements this
month-Wide brimmed children's shapes anal
ldvarhnbly trinied one of two ways , Ellhcr
a scarf of mousseline brilllante , striped with
many rows of narrow yellow lace , ruffled
on , is wound and knotted about the crown ,
or a waltenu wreath of pink roses encircles
one-half of crown and law hanging brim ,
t + 9lli tufts of green grenadine ribbon cone'
pleting the decoration , One would think the
period ° of dotage was falling earlier than
hitherto on our woneh , if the wearing of
these babyish heats can be taken as an In.
dication Mothers of well seasoned dattgli'
tors pin those while and rose confections ,
lit for school girls , on their grizzling heals
and go forth content , conspicuous and
rldlculous.
Besides the leghorn flats , women , who
gather on green lawns at the thresholds of
club housca of bright afternoons , display
rather widish bats of deep yellow broom
THE IMPERIAL HAIR
HEDE ERa o
for Gray or Iileaehod Hair
Ia' the oniy proptaratioq before
tho'pubiio today that pasores (
GI'Ay Hntr to its original color ,
or that gives to Bleached Hair
that uptform shade and lustre
without in some manner injurIng -
Ing the scalp , the halt' or tie qep-
eral'1ieilth ,
Sevin olora cover all' shades , I'rlce ,
11.50 a td lllreo tines the amount , $7.00.
Sole Munufactarers and Pattgttetn ,
An aerial Chemlcul M'f'g Co. , 292 Fifth Avo. ,
N. V. Per sale Itt Omens uy ltlcnardson
Co.
Drue
r
Sherman & McConnell Drug Co. ,
Applled by all hair dressertl. 1513 Dodge Bt ,
straw , fancifully trimmed with brown , gold
and green field grasses , a dab of lace and
maybe a knot of ribbon. The all straw list ,
though , is looked upon as the most distinctly
fashlonable head covering one can wear , and
Its vogue Is strong with those who display
very fetching organdies , muslhns , law'm cross
bars and such like extravagant simpllcitkl { ,
uuslhi ixtrLI nnees.
Except n silk velvet dress trimmed with
sable , there Is scarcely another costume
quite so costly as an all white muslin , for
muslin brilllante is what the monitors of
fashion have adopted , This Is Swiss with a
silk' warp , and only the lower halt of the
bodice and upper half of the skirt nro over
undo of it. The sweet white gown calls
for a deep flounce of tamboured cream net ,
and then on the tool of this must be close
set muslin rumen , nil edged with narroww
soft white grosgrain ribbon. At back and
front the skirt must sweep the floor in order
to bell out like the open petals of a lily.
Tight white net sleeves require slmsvers of
little ribbon-edged rumes falling over the
knuckles , and to cap this modish climax a
big nosegay of white sweet peas should find
lodgmenton the left shoulder.
IIen Itchii $ I''notw'u nr.
There Is always a deep laid plot behind
every apparently inexplicable whim of the
changeful feminine toilet. Whosoever will
take especial notice , at any swarming of
pretty , human butterflies , can easily guess
why long skirts have been nominated in this
seasob's bond of fashion. A woman whose
gown Is a couple of Inches too long in front
is obliged , many , many times in an hour ,
to daintily lift up the front brendths , In
order that she may nut trip over , While so
doing she does expose perhaps a trifle more
of her green or grep suede gypsy shoes than
than one would ordinarily , or thus , by this
artless maneuver , call public attention to
her Venetian slippers , both styles of footgear -
gear being eminently worthy of display and
admiration ,
Agypsy shoe is mndo of green glace kid ,
with a low heel , a square toe and a chased
sllvot buckle , connecting two strapy that
cross high on the Instep. Very often a pretty
pattern is cut or pressed Into the leather ,
and green silk hose , exactly matching the
shoe , are worn with ihla tidy slipper.
Venetian sandals are assumed Chiefly at
night , for dances and hunters. Their black
satin vamps are cut aJ low as possible over
the toe , whl'sh Is rouudt'd , and the heel is
gilded , to harmonize with the delicate geometric -
metric lines of gold embroidery that are
fretted rut over the black background. Occasionally -
casionally one sees worn with these black
silk stockings , heavily Interwoven with gold
threads , but an unpleasant susplclon lingers
that this typo of hosiery never can be permitted -
mitted to visit the wash tub. Most sensible
and becoming of all the summer shoes seen
so far are the oxford ties of willow calf ,
Women who coast that nil summer ion ;
they wear nothing more costly than white
duck and pique skirts anti shirts , -who cut
these same skirts ankle short and who have
discarded stiff linen collars for soft pique
stocks , have taken the willow calf shoe to
their hearts ns wohl as their feet. They er-
toll Its merits far over the virtues of piG
skin , yellow seal skin and Russlan leather
and invariably lace their new tics with
leather thongs , In place of silk lacers ,
Stmnler Je + t els.
That woman errs who adds to her toilet
by day any undue amount of jewels , Last
winter mock stones , elaborate belt slides
and fanciful chains and pins flashed forth
from every fair caller , theatregoer or even
pedestrian. With the summer this habit
has altered and though semi-precious stones
are as popular as ever , the cheap pretty
make-believe in an easily tarnished setting ,
has gone sileptly out in the dust pan. In
a gathering of two hundred women an a
casino or country club house piazza the
jewels displayed will only be seen at Intervals -
tervals , and those nro very apt to be genu-
lne. An exception must be made in favor
of pearls. The machine made Imitation of
the oyster's product wreathes many fair
throats , but a small , very white pearl is
the kind usually adapted.
Numbers of women have a fad for collecting -
lecting and wearing eccentric pearls , that is ,
In shape or color. These are real , however -
ever , and n goodly number comes from our
own rivers In the west. One of the now fa'
vorito ways of utilizing large irregularlyy
formed pearls is to string three on a very
tine golil thread. The thread is long enough
to pass around the throat , tie under the
chin and have two ends hanging far about
two or three inches , At the point where
the thread ties one large pearl is 11xed ,
while two others finish oft the ends of the
fine chain. A large queerly shaped black ,
yellow and pink pearl is considered the most
appropriate combination for such a necklace -
lace , else for a chain similarly worn on the
arm ,
Almost as lovely as the true gems women
wear are the sequins , cut from pink , white
and smoked pearl , that glitter mi some cf
the very new gowns. It does not repttro , a
visit to a fashion oracle to prophesy that
shell sequins will command a high place
in trio estimation of the well dressed in
the months to come. Nettling yet produced
in jet can equal the iridescent beauty of
these small and large disks , cut from ums-
ae1 , conche and oyster shells , highly polished -
ished , and fastened to the satin or net by
a tiny hook In time back o' tack sequin ,
Wilt : this Idealized and glittering wampum -
pum , flowers , leaves and fanciful pAUerns
are outlined , and on the very ' .plendid
gowns the designs are filled lu with heading -
ing or etnbroltlery , So far only a little of
the ahell sequin work has been seen , and
that , he/ng / a direct importation , is enormously -
mously expensive , but it la safe to reckon
that the price will come down as soon as
a large quantlty of the new' trimming is
brought over.
As the vigilant cat observes the hole where
the mouse went In , so must the carefully
dressed woman watch the skirts of her sister
in fashion , hr order to be ready for the next
demonstration in drapery , A motion is undoubtedly -
doubtedly being made in favor of turning
what are now flounces into loops and falls
of material , so soon as heavier goods than
muslin and foulard come into use. Even
the midsummer suits of cloth have braided
fronts , detached from the skirt and falling
from the hips to below the knees in acute
or rounded points , They' are chic enough
in effect , while many of the volles and dell.
Bate bareges are twitched up on the hips , to
cast wrinkles toward the feet and take away
from the exact plainness of the skirt that
has no aalvatlon to the w'ay of rumes ,
° Illurtnatlnos of 1' nshlnns ,
Conclusions galore and very trustworthy
ones as la' what the mondaines are wearing
of an evening can be drawn from the five
figures of ball and dinner costumes given
here. From slipper to toe to topmast curl
these sketched beauties are synonymous with
the best that le appearing at any one of the
largo watering places.
Thu first toilet In the row Js a twlllght
irah ; satin , cut la prlncess fashion , and
boasts one of the novelty bodices. For all
its decoration this dress depends on wisely
administered designs in smoked and pink
pearl sequins and on a shower flounce of
palest green chiffon , tapering to the waist
line and from the waist to spreading tullnese
below the knee. la this instance they hair
Is dressed after the inst orders from Parts ,
That is , very high on the head in a small
curly tuft that is braced by two bands of
pearls.
Not less refreshing , for its departure in
detail tram all well copied modes , is the
second design. The taffeta silk skirt of this
subject is of a popular color known ns violet
and silver , That is , a pure violet shot with
silver and its rent' brendtba tied flounced hp
to the waist with white muslin brilllante.
Draped over the top of the low cut body is
n scarf of white muslin , wdle ) the shoulder
straps are formed of a series of gold cameo
brooches , set about with pearls.
A lraihed'dinner gowh of white satin is
showed in the third figure. Garnishment in
the form of white Limerick lace is displayed
in a fan drapery on the long rear folds of
satin and 'a similar arrangement of lace on
the body Is caught with a jeweled pin at
the wnist line , '
A suggestion in evening wrapa is nlfordttd
by the fourth figure. here we have the
usual shawl shape and the wrap is made
either of satin or while summer weight
broadcloth with a satin flounce on the edge.
Full frills of silk muslin line the high col.
bar and a kerchief of the same falls over
the shoulders.
A simple study In while swiss is offered
by the last figure. Flounces edged with
narrow white satin ribbon are set on pander
fashion , a bunch of yellow roses Is fastened
amid the front drapery of the bodice , while
ghlllinga of narrow yellow ribbon form a
.
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FROCK FOR A LITTLE MISS OF 10. ' FULL DRESS FOR YOUTH OF 1 . . SEARS.
series of wired loops that pass over the
arms and shoulders ,
A charming mode Is lhnt for little boys
who 'dress for the evening in either white
from top to toe or in white save the small
coat cut Ilko the father's dinner coat. Such
at least 1s the mode for young gentlemen
who are in schools preparatory for the ccl-
lego career and the white is duck. While I
canvas shoes and a high turn-aver collar
with a white silk four in-hgml is the proper
arrangement , while mothers who guard the
good form of their son's clothes no longer '
part their hair in the middle ,
1VOIIIN AND IIIt1C-,1-iIILAC.
Some lotnhle Collections unit Collectors -
lectors of , tutlgnes.
Summer time is the lean season for the
dealer in bric n-brac. Tlii is because the
women are out of town , for it is by the
might of the novly developed feminine lava
for collecting antiques , backed by the ( em-
mine dollar , that the keeper of the curiosity
shop has become the most pompous , prosperous -
perous tradesman on the block , lie used
t ) be about the furtherest underdog In the
business nf buying and selling , but lmia boom
began about six years ago , It hs been a
rising boom ever since and ttp gratefully
admits that the women did it all , lie can
prove it by showing you on his books a
dozen feminine for every masculine name ,
"It was the ultra fashionable women wlto
went in for antiques anti brlc-a-brae first , "
said one dealer , who does a'whirling business -
ness in the winter , ' , They and the actresses
who grow rich are our most valued patrohs
and the shrewdest and most intelligent buy
era , too , though feminine-like they exhibit
very marked eccentricities In selecting hnd
purchasing. For example , it is rarely we
find a worms who interests herself In more
than one speeles of brie-a-brae at a time.
Then , too , true to their sex , they dedrly
love to bargain , to hammer down the price
of everything they' buy to the lowest possi
ble figure and tune-tenths of our customers
wont'blty at all until they have hail the
article under discussion sent honte , to try
its effect among the remainder of theta be-
longings. But the specialty system is what
exerts the largest influence on the woman
who treasures antiques-lo be known And
envied for having the finest collection of
this or that particular style of plate , for
Vernls Martin or Sheraton furniture , for
Fifteenth century tapestries or Florentine
carved oak is the true goal of her ambition.
I'rofitable customers as they prove in the
rlong run , the women arc not on this very
account easy to deal with. They are so hpt
to know whereof they buy , they are keen-
eyed , Incredulous , anti among them are
recognized authorities on every spegleA of
brie-a-brac , who nre as quick as hawks for
detecting the true from the false , Now ,
when It cones to tapestries and French furniture -
niture of other. days , a dealer must rlso
early in the morning to get ahead of Miss
Hewett , the ox-mayor's daughter. She was
one of the first women in New York to go
In for this sort of thing nail in her two
spedlalties her ileclslon is valued as that of
a professional expert , From an artistic and
technical standpoint she know's pretty much
all there Is to know of the famous tapestries -
tries in this country and Europe , besides
herself possessing one of the choicest collections -
lections in America , td which she adds
from time to time ,
Next after Miss Hewett I doubt if there
Is a woman for whom brlc-n-brac. dealers
cherish a deeper respect than Miss Elsie de
Wolf. Years before the taste for souvenirs
of other ce tunes was culti'atad at 'all ,
Miss de Wolf slowly and carefully gathered
up nut of shops in New York and Paris bits
of oil French and Spanish paste , odd examples -
amples of gold and silver work ( n jewelry ,
combs , rings , buckles , ' etc and then she
added to this a really splendid array of
fans , ,
Her possessions of seventeenth and
eighteenth century paste alone could hardly
be' matched now oulakle a European museum -
um and now that this ardor for collecting
1.ai gr tsn so earnest , the value of her array
of antique jewelry has increased to the
proportions of a small fortune. There are
numbers of women who would gladly exchange -
change their dlnmond tiaras and necklaces
for her ancient imitation atones , but fine
haste , though the thing most desired by
the feminine collectors today is the most
dimcult article to procure ,
It. Is Mrs. Oliver Delmont who comes oft.
chest to the shops of bric a-brae dealers
with a fashionable friend to piss Judgment
on some piece of mahogany which the friend
has under consideration , for Mrs. Delmont
is one of the few persons who can literally ,
when blindfolded , put her hands on a piece
of this wood and tell In an instant whether
it is out and good or new anti green , A part
of her gifts from 'her parents at her marriage -
riage were wonderful sets of Mahogany bedroom -
room and dining romp furniture , taken from
their old home in the south , With this as
a starter she began .to buy good mahogany
here anti there , until the dealers iii antiques ,
learning of this taste , fell into the way of
sending her word when any special prlte
cattle into their hands. As a collector she
is unique among women , for ate never disputes
putes a price. She prefers mahogany from
the south , and , after carefully exmnlnittg a
chair or table , passing her while lrnnils
caressingly over the wood , she puts down
the first price named , of drops the whole
matter then and there.
Another equally inte111gent and delightful
collector , front the dealer's standpoint , is
Miss Matld Adams , whose taste is exelusiv'ely
for miniatures , Miss Adams is not so well
known to the trade , though , as n tall , gray-
ltalred woman who always looks over the
last bits of old English pinto one cony have
in , Inquires if any relics of famous actresses
have turned up , and who has nil an Irish
woman's gettiua for blarney when alto wants
to hammer down a set price. This is Miss
Ada Rchan , who -hiss put thousands of dot-
tars into these -two fads of hers. In England
she has got together relics of the Siddons ,
IYltty dive , Womngton and Rachel that are
worthy of a place In a museum and her collection -
lection of plate fairly overflows both her
New York and English homes ,
A strange development has come about in
our trade since women have cultlvnted a
taste for bric-a-brat. Prior to this new
interest of theirs we never had entployed
women as traveling buyers for us through
the country , but in tire south and New England -
gland , whence our best stock comes , our
most valued and expert buyers are two
young women , They were both of then
country girls , in out-of-the-way districts ,
looking for the means of earning a living.
An inspiration came to them to work tha
rich field of antique furniture , brasses , cera-
mice , etc. , stored in the farm and plantatlon
hoUses of the neighborhood.
So cleverly did they put through their
project and such valuable steele do they cou-
triy'e to lay hands on that they command
their ow n wages , even in the very depths ,
of summer , when all other professions , save
that of the bric-a-brac buyer , is flatter than
a stale griddle cake.
Two DOV.tL U.tTCll M. ' IU ltS.
Iti , nlry Ilet weer Victoria of Englnud
nod Lutsa of Dennutrk.
Queen Victoria is the chiefest of them.
Site conies honestly by her match-making
knack-Which Thackeray says inheres in all
good women.
In the life settlement of her own younglings -
lings the queen was much hampered by religious -
ligious considerations. After she had secured -
cured the crown prince of Prussia for her
eldest daughter she was a sort of hymeneal
Alexander , weeping for more Protestant
princes to conquer. As the temporal head of
the English church it would never , never
have done to have her sons and daughters
go oft into Catholicism , or even the Greek
church. The Dritish taxpayer and the
"nonconformist conscience" would lave
made a pretty patbar over such a thing.
That disposed of various matrimonial pa. '
tentlalilies among continental royalties.
The prince of Wales may have made a love
match-hut it is beyond question that it
was her Lutheran , faithm more than her
beauty and charm which recommended Alexandra -
andra of Denmark. The nation might have
grown turbulent and heady at the prospect
of a Catholic future queen. At any rate
the reigning queen did not choose to risk
it then any more than she chose to do
it thirty years later , when time luckless
duke of Clarence fell so madly i love
with the beautiful Princess lichen d'Or-
leans.
Alfred , duke of Edinhurgh , now duke of
Snxe-Coburg , handsomest , sttngicst and most
gifted of the queen's children , suns ntan-
aged to mate exactly to her mlud. : lo was
sent to St. Petersburg-of course there w + .s
no talk' of wife hunting-and so captivated
the Russian emperor's daughter nothing
would do her but to marry halm , although
the marriage ran counter to every line of
of Russian policy , interest and tradition.
Grand Duchess Marie was her fathu'c idol
-he could gainsay her nothing. Rut for hits
ant moiy taking off by an nnarrhtst bomb
it s unlikely time relations between the
two countries would ever have reached
their present tension ,
In matching imer grandchildren the queen
has had a very much freer hand , There she
could leave out of account the non'conforrn-
lot cosclence. blow well she has realized
the tact may ho gleaned ( roan this Incomplete
pleto reckoning of thrones present and
MIDSUMMEIt UALL GOWNS.
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prospective , filled by her descendents. Emperor -
peror tVillimn is her grandson ; his sister ,
I'rinreas Sophie , will one day be qucen of
Greece , unless Greece gels out of the way
of having queens , Emperor V'Illiatn has
six sons , ono of whom is slated to marry
the young queen of 11o11and , Falling a
Prussian prlwee , 1Vllhclmina may be mated
with one of her English cousins , who are
the queen's grandsons , children of time dead
Prince Leopold. Their mother , a princess
of 15'nideck Pyrmont , refused old King 1VII-
Ilam of Ilolland , who turned for consolation
to her sister , the present queen regent
Even should au enrlhqunke engulf the six
young Prussian princes , Vlctorln's blood
would hold the ttrrone , I't'Ince bleary in
not merely her grandson , but nrnrrteti to her
granddaughter , Ircno of llease. Time llc'pe
princelings Indeed hate been trump cards
for the royal match maker. Princess Elizabeth
abeth is a itussinn grand duchess , with only
three lives , none at then ( robust , betwcetm
her lumsbantl nud the throne. It was by her
help-she is witty , mud beautiful , and just
the least bit wicked-that Queen Victoria
was enabled to make Princess Mix , Tsarina.
The Tsar Nicholas , an Impassive and somewhat -
what cold blooded ymtng person , w ns deep In
forbidden toils , Alix herself , poor as princess -
cess could be mid willful as she wan beautiful -
tiful , did not care to have greatness thrust
upon her , along with an indifferent husband -
band , But grnndmnmmn persisted-so the
wedding came oil-and ( lint in spite of a
heap of diplmnatie effort to prevent it ,
Of the half-Russlan Edlnhurgh princesses
ono is queen of Boumantu-at least fee so
long as ltoumnnla will tolerate her new
Ilolteuzollern king. The other is grand
duchess of Hesse-laving married her
cousin , time Grand Duke Louts-and repented -
pented it rather bitterly , The grand duke.
dons of Hesso and Saxe Cahurg are , far
size and revenues , hardly wbrth reckoning ,
but their possessors cnn hold up their heads
with time greatest rulers of Europe.
Opportunity considered , Queen Louisa of
Denmark has distanced Victoria in ( lie
matter of match-making , Sha was t.tid'hle
aged before her husband began to reign-
she had been poor always ; she was neither
brilliant nor beautiful-beyond all chat her
realm was a brunimngem second-rnta sort
of kingdom. Nothwithstandhmg , Otte of her
daughters , Princess Dagaiar , w'as eznrln + ;
one of her grandsons is czar of oil the ltus-
sias ; her daughter Alexandra will be queen
of England ; her third daughter , Thyra ,
duchess of Cumnberlnnd , is mistress of the
greatest private fortune in Europe. Of her
sons , the crown prince , who will reign after
his father , married one of the enormously
rich llourhon princesses ; the second of
them , Prince George , married a itusslan
grand duchess and became icing of Greece.
Thus It will be seen tint through n progeny
tar less numerous Queen Louisa can fairly
reckon thrones with Queen Victoria. In
the final accounting , when the balance
sheets of ages come to adjustment , it wlll
be not a little curious to discover how far
the personal equution , as represented by
these two arch match makers , goes ahead
of the wipes of statesmen and the deep-
laid schemes of diplomacy.
SItE SA mIJ'n ' t'rrll 1'I.tni.
tIissnurl t'ommnn Who lirnved I'eril lu
the Frozen North ,
Mrs. Magnojla Hedge of Mnryville , Mo. ,
divides with Lieutenant Peary's svife the
honor of having been nearer the north pole
than any other living ci Ilized woman.
When the lieutenant sailed for the nortlilnnd
to 1893 he took Mrs. Hedge with him. Previous -
vious to that time she had been his stenographer -
rapher anti was much help in getting up a
book giving his experiences during his first
trip , The work was not flnished when he
was ready to start a second time and Mrs.
Hedge readily accepted his offer to accompany -
pany the second expedition , during which
Peary intended to push thin book to compbe
tlon , Sha Is o1 opinion that the daring explorer -
plorer will never return alive from the
trip which begun a few weeks ago , holding
that he 1s not now strong enough to stand
the terrible fatigue and privation Inseparn-
ble from such a journey.
"The last time I saw him ; ' says Mrs ,
Hedge , "was in Iowa last summer. I did
not think lie was strong enough , but lie
laughed at my fears. Ills greatest danger
is that he taken no account of difllculty ,
His daring almost cost him his life several
times on his last trip. When he started inland -
land with fifty dogs and when he arrived
where he bad started tram ha had but one.
I think ho has injured his health considerably -
ably in his two former trips. Of course ,
he doesn't concede tlrnt. IIe insists that he
is as strong as he ever was and when I
talked with him lie appeared to ho
feetly confident that he would find the pole
on his next trip , which he was planning
then. In our conversation , Lleutomant
Peary said ho thought Ire would be gone this
time not less than three , and possibly five
years. Of course , I am greatly Interested
in the result of the expedition. Mrs. Peary
was with bier husbnnd an both his former
trips , but she could not go with lint title
time on account of t little one that has
been born to them recently. She , her nurse
and I were further north then than any
civilized white women have ever been , We
were between 000 and 700 miles from the
pole , Mrs. Cross died noon after her re-
turn. She was about 00 years old mnd the
long exposure proved to ho too much for
her. Consequently Mrs. Peary anal 1 are the
two hiving civilized women who have been
nearest the pole ; '
Mrs. Ilodgo does not think Andrea is alive ,
if he were she feels confident word would
have been had from him ore now , "The
balloon , " oho says , "has not yet been made
practical enough as a means of lrausporla-
tlon in searching for the poles , Though 1
hardly expect that Lieutenant Peury will
over return olive , I believe he has a batter
chance of reaching the polo than either
Andrea or Wellman. The last named bins u
party with him that is too large. The larger
the puny the more provisions must lie taken
along and the more progress is impeded , "
Fit IVOLOUS CU IhAN IIILLES.
Knorr' More of L'onipleslon I'ovvder
' 1'htva of u nIcInir Powder ,
"The belles of the island often bedeck
themselves with f tellies in lieu of costlier
but paler jewel lights , " writes Edwnni Page
Gaston describing limo sights to bo seen "Up
and Down a Cuban Street" In the August
Woman's home Companion.
"These insects are nearly tour times as
large as nro limo 'lightning bugs' In the
United States and emnlt a beautiful glow from
their breasts and underwings , The young
women dearly hove to Imprison them in line
gauzy folds of their summerland costumes
and enmesh them in time hair in mock car.
onets , Sometimes u senorita will wear a
brilliant firefly or two imprisoned 1n a tiny
cage of gold or silver wire hanging as a bangle -
gle to her bracelet , It is an astonishing sight
to see u light-bedecked southern beauty
shimmering iii soft night as it clad In a
thousand gems , but having no other adorn'
anent titan this economical one of firelies.
The poor use theta in a more practical way
for lighting their houses by putting them
under wire screens-or in boties { , and they
prove qulte'succesetul in ibis otllce of uUlly.
At one ( line the laws of Spain forbade the
poor li Cutts using any other means for
house lighling than fireflies , and the practice
is still a common one , long after ( hale strange
law lies been abolished.
"Tine bite of the women of tire upper
classes is a very narrow one and the average
girl tiaa little else than marriage to look
forward to , It behooves her to make an
early marriage , too , whltle ( ho charms i of
youth abide , for she la likely to begin lc
fade at 30. Handsome natrons are iafre
quent , as in all tropic lands , 11or mother
teacbes her very little else than in the way
of personal accomplishments , and the
iteil rtiiIt 1. Ihat6. . el. a.- . . , I.t 1.-r
a great deal more regarding cohplexlott
powder than she does of baking powder , and
her lack of other useful kttowledga is in
much the seine proportion ,
"The young men 'play the bear' In their
love-makings as they do in nil Spanish
countries , find one will often see a hove-
taken youth standing In the publle street far
weary hours before the house of his chosen
one , patietttly swatting time ( line when rho
parental consent shall open the door to hlm ,
)
' ' ' .
1tO1'A1 , 'I'hIi.1SttiIIS.
' "J"
1'nlunbic Jetvris 1 + uti t Ity lteIetiimg
( tit eau s.
When a London dealer lu precious stones
is eommmrtled to Windsor or Osborne he
finde in time giteon n very shrewd anti intelligent -
telligent purchaser. She knows dtatnmuls
like an expert and buys like one , She owns
a nnrvolous green diamond that has hover t
been set , and furthermore she has it her
fingers' end the history of every notable
stone iii Europe now In the possession of
royalty.
'Queen Margaret of Italy owns next to
the ex-queen of Hanover the finest neck.
lace of pearls in existence , She does not ,
like her deposed rnjesty of Hanover , pws
seas a six-foot string of these lovely bends ,
every one an abnotulo nmalclr hi shape and
color , but so extensive nud ro precious nro
her pearl ropes ( lint her mnlda.are ohilged
to wear it porllmr of the collection all the
while , 1n artier to assist the queen in keep-
lag the gems litre , lustrous mind healGty
r
u
,
. .ctt1Va
d ry I 4 :
a b . f
y.
\ . = ' i'M
? k'i a 4JI )
l
A FRILLED OVERSKIRT.
r
by constant contact with warns human
flesh. It , is King Ilmnbert who buys time
pearls for his wife , anti he is , like Queen
Victoria , an expert in jewels.
The queen of Austria owns the greatest
emerald in the world and a neci loco of
emeralds that is quite unrivaled. They , like
Margaret of Italy's pearls , are now crown
property , The empress of Russia wears next
after Queen Victoria ( he largest dinmond
and rubles of surpassing splendor , but all
of these belong to the nntion , though the
richest and most varied aggregation of proclaims -
claims stones are owned by ( tie Russian
church. Not all the queens of Europe own
jewels to half the value of those act hi time
statues , crosses , altars and vestments at
the cathedrals of Moscow or St. Peters.
burg ,
Thnt quiet , domestic Iatiy , queen of Dres
den , enjoys the ownership of four sapphires
equal in size and beauty to time one that
glows in the crown of England , and the
favorite wives of the elan of Persia and
the sultan of Turkey wear turquoises the
like of which no western queen cnn boast i'f '
Mrs. Langtry at one time owned the most t , , ' v ,
perfect eat of turquoises In Europe , but libr /
nackhace and bracelets tvcra sold at length
and the finest stones canna to America , The
thtchess of Westmnlnslor still wears , how ;
over , the largest flawless turquoise owned
by any private individual , ( ho duchess of
Sutherland poeeesses ( ho only complete
necklace of hunch penrls , and ( t is said. by
jewelers that Mrs , Patter Pnluer's star
eappbires are still unrivaled- )
1' erliltllne Bersonnls.
Louise AI , Elroy is noting as press agent
for two theaters in Masenchusette and is
believed to be time only woman in the country -
try occupying smith a position.
Miss ilnrrlet Dothan of Odessa , Mo. , recently -
cently graduated tram the ltunsas City College -
lego of Pharmacy and was nwarded rho gold
( Coutiaued eu Fifteenth Page. )
Ctlnl.u A'r ItAS'r.
A Chroalu Inv'ulld 'I'huught to be
Ilnurnhle , '
Mrs , Marie Hanson , of Nloliull , Win , ,
was n chronic invalid whose case excited
much attention , In a recent letter to Dr ,
Ilarlmumm , s h o
writes as follows ;
9' ' 9 Ilad been troubled -
bled with dyspep-
sin f o r many
, , years and was very
. Inuclu reduced. I
" vvas Ueatod by my
t .
nearest physicians ,
but only for a lit-
' + tie time did they
. :4 : ' , help mo. 1 seemed
to b a growing
woreo instead of better. I had that tired
feeling and suffered awful distress in may
stomach , i would often soon hungry , but
when I ate , no matter how little , it caused
me such distress ( lint I was often wicked j
enough to wish myself dead , About two
years ago 1 lied disease of the kidueye and
womht , I was In a-weak , rtervbua'condItlon
and began to have dreadful palpltatlon of
time heart , I was conlla&l to lho 'bed , 1 P
had given up all hope of ever being well
agettm , I saw an ativcrtisement in a newspaper - J
paper of a similar case having been cured
by ( tie use of Dr Ilurtman's remedies , I
conmencod taking the medicine , I found
relief when i bad taken the first bottle.
Now I lava taken seven bottles of I'e ru na
and two of Man-a-lln. 1 thank you for
your adyicu and I am glad I can say that
I am well now. I have been well for one
year. I can cat and drink , eleep sad work
without afterwards suffering. "
Bead to Dr , llartman , Columbus , 0 , , for
