10 THE OMAHA DAILY iftlETS : SUN IAT , OCTOUEH 10 , 1807.
B. "V
.
IN THF. DOMAIN OF WOMAN.
1V *
1 FASIIIO.VUII.i : I-'UHS.
Bplrnilor of Wliili-r > ! ! Cnli'iilnlrrt
to Dnr.rlo.
NnW YORK , Oct. 7. Hxccpt for elderly
women , the long fur cape Is practically dis
carded this stnson in favor of the smart
Jacket , which Is certainly more youthful and
genially becoming. The small sleeve lias
doubtless as much to do with this as the
fact that the majority of women ore tired
of clumsy effects. Many women , however ,
mindful of the original cost , will liavo
scruples about chopping up a garment
which represents a good lound sum to bc-
ln with. And It Is certainly an adjunct ,
os an all-round useful family wrap , to n
complete wardrobe , where , of course , there
are several others. Perhaps the cutting
ehould bo discouraged on general principles ,
but having passed through the vicissitudes
of several seasons , It Is justifiable. The. ad
vent of the coat sleeve will make It cut to
bettor advantage than for some seasons
past. The very short ripple capo Is Btlll
In favor , as It can't very well bo dispensed
with as a carriage wrap over light bodices
or for the theater , where It Is always a
difficult matter to shed a tight-fitting jacket
gracefully without { tutting red In the face
or exciting the wrath of one's escort. The
PERSIAN LAMB PKULKRINE.
ripple cape of Persian lamb or chinchilla
Is still to the front , despite the general Im
pression heretofore that , chinchilla had been
done to doith and run Into the ground.
But the authorities on such vital question1 ;
say nay and , thnt chinchilla has taken anew
now lease of life and promises to bo very
fashionable the coming winter.
Nothing short ot the adjertive gorgeous
U befitting to describe somu of the magnifi
cent creations In furs from the other ulde.
Epaulettes and belts of jewels , trimmings of
lace 'and velvet and more jewels strung along
down the front or nlilo are sonic featmcs of
ultra smart Jackets this season. The old-
fasloncd Idea that a handsome sealskin ccat
Was flue enough In Itsulf and needed no such
frivolous aids as jewels , lace or velvet , has
died a natural death and will bo a long time
resurrecting ,
SMARTEST THING IN JACKKTS.
The Jluss'.an blouse is about the smartest
tiling Irt jackets this season. A very hand
some ono IB of sealskin , with the necessary
fulness front 'and back , and all around , for
that matter. They all have the short , full
bapqucs and coat sleeves with a slight ful
ness at the top. The high flaring collar and
wide rovers are of Russian sable. Jeweled
belt and epaulettes compcscd of any or all
the gems under thu sun. With Arizona
rubles , womlcrful rhlnestrnrs and nil the
.multifold Unit clans Imitations of pjarls ,
, turquolse8 , emeralds , sapphires , etc. , a
surprising air of magnificence Is brought
about , and Solomon , in all his glory , was
not nrrnjcd like ono of these. The return
ing Klondlkcr with empty pockets anil
Monlu'Crlsto tales will bo dazzled Into
upecchlcssnoss. for wcmen who are not rid
ing in their chaises , however , Ic s striking
or pon-jcwolcd attachments will bu In order.
The same b'.oune , with collar and ruvoru of
Hudson bay tdblp , and jeweled belt as hand-
stfmo ixs the wearer's purse will allow is a
happy cumpiomlse ; or an clastic velvet bell
in Ecctlons , fastened In front with a huge
buckle , round or sijuaie , of flashing jowcl.i.
Tippet of sable or stone marten has a
mnUlpllulty of titllH , the long er < ls and roum
collar being entirely mudu of them , a llttlo
animal's head nestles In 'the group at the
back of tha neck.
The old-fashioned pclovlno Is In vogue
again. And aery handsome one Is made
ot purslnn lamb' with high flaring collar am
very long cnda liv front , finished with stone
marten tails. Thu , outlines of the llguro
and waist uie. defined In front , and altogether
the pdpvlno U a vast Improvement on the
Ion ; ; cape , which mada no ilntinctlons ] , am
bllm elegant lines aa well aw more Juno
Ilka proportion -were hidden alike In Its
heavy foidn ,
A'very .smart coat Is of black cloth braidcc
on ( hu bodice , bamiuo and tops of leovo
It has a high flaring collar and wide revers
of peralau lamb , Coat sleeve with a reason
nblu amount of fullnets nt the top. A hand-
name jet or steel belt looks well with this
dlOAS AN MUFFS.
A stylish tippet U made of I'erelan lamb
The round collar and long ends In front are
Unbilled with some marten tails and the
little animals' heads. A bright rllk llnlnt ,
U very effective.
Very many of the now fur boas are long
onutiKb io reach the bottom of the slrlrt li
front , Some nru made entirely nt Russian
Fable , Hudson's bay or stone nurten tails
With these lucu and jowcla am often Intro
duccd and are simply stunning worn ovc
light silk bodices or wen a ball toilette upoi
occasions.
Muffs nru medium sized ; a very elegan
ono Is of blue fox , daintily lined and with a
culo llttlo pocket in thu back , IA very con
vvnltmt addition for pocketbook and hand
kerchief. Very prc-tly collarettes are o
fur , made In a sort of box plait or rlppl
effect , with a very full rutllu of lace flllli.g
up and softening otherwise stltl outlines
These are rmltc expensive and becoming t
long , narrow faces and Bllm women gciier
ally.A .
A Btyllah traveling coat for a llttlo girl 1
of blue cloth ; thu front and back Is mad
r. n with a large box plitt lu the middle. It ha
a turn-down collar over a btralght one ,
The eleeve Is semi-bouffant , but quite snug
io the elbow ,
Tliu revere ore cut square and form a
paint front and back Just < it the top of the
box plait. The cloak Is fastened In the
anlddlQ between the rovers. CufTs , collar
nd ret erg are braided. With this li worn
a browu felt hat , with wide brim ; It U
trimmed with a narrow velvet ruchtng and
l&nse bow at the side. A very dilnty cloak
tor a little tot for her beat bib aud tucker
Is made of deep pink ottoman silk. It Is
made with wide turks across the front and
back of the body , which 'Is blmisc. A llttlo
strip of ermine outlines thonvalot and an
other finishes the neck , A simpler ono la
of pearl gray cloth , plaited front and back.
A wldo steel belt Is worn at the waist.
These are for llttlo girls from 3 to 1 > or 7
years of age. Another Is of royal blue
velvet trimmed with fur.
NIJW GOWNS. ,
Many of the now silk gowns , whether In
or colors , have the whole skirt em
broidered 1n Jet or steel , elaborate patterns ,
which only stop at the waist line. In jet
over watered silk the effect Is very elegant.
On cloth this all-over braiding la also a
brand new feature and very gencrJl.
For house gowns nothing Is prettier than
cashmere , and after the lapse of several
years It has resumed all its old prestige.
It Is the gown for the debutante and the
Ingenue , and nothing his as yet been found
to equal Its soft , clinging tendencies , nun's
veiling and orepon both proving unsatisfac
tory' ' when put to the test. A very Frenchy
and becoming house gown , .which demands
a good complexion , Is of pale violet casli-
mcro and made with n. plain skirt about
four and a half yards wldo , over a. nepirate
petticoat of jonquil yellow silk. It Is made
with a lound. medium bodice , opening over
a cJiemlsutte in front of white moussellno
do dole. Three little frills of silk Uie
same shade trim the front and back ot
bodice , forming a. sort of surplice nnd com
ing to a point In ifront , finished , with a bow-
n.id ends. The sleeve Is tight , the solo
trimming are three little frills at the top ,
'which ' meets the others , giving the necea-
oiry width to make it becoming. The sleeve
Is finished with a rufllo of moussellne de
solo falling over the h.ind. A aash ot
violet silk with a knot and Ions ends at the
sldu completes the costume. The same color
schcmo Is very elegant carried out in silk ,
for a reception or visiting gown. A hat. all
vblet And turned straight up at the side
with pufiliig of violet silk. U Is trimmed
with ostnich ifeathera and bird of paradise , a
symphony In violet.
The , cre poi * skirt still lingers , but Is not ,
as heretofore , the foundation of a well regu
lated wardrobe. Its usefulness cannot be
denied , and us an accompaniment of the
silk bodice , which 'has ' never been - completely
pletely retired , It Jias no equal. A very
useful gown , which Is likely to be 'woni ' a
do/en tlmcn to another's one , has a black
crcpon skirt vllh a wldo crinkleIt ; Is per
fectly plain < and of medium fulness. The
silk bodice la made with three groups or
tucks on either olde of the front and con
tinuing round the back. In thy middle
there Is a straight pleco of silk with bias
tucks , finished with a little niching down
line sides. The sleeve la tight-fitting , with
a small , divided puff nt the shoulder and
a ruflle of moussellne at the wrist.
EMILY HAZARD.
) | M > rfiiiilif OnVrcil < < > tin * Gentler
Ni-x In I lie ( iijvt'riniiPiit Si'rvl < ' ' .
Ruinous have gone abroad ot late , writes a
Vashington correspondent , to the effect that
vomcn nro being crowded out of the govern
ment service. Fgures , however , do not en
dorse any such belief. During the twelve
months ending September 15 , 1897 , no tower
hin 3d persons of the gentler sex were
ippolnted to places through examination by
ho Civil Service commission. This reckoning
does not Include large numbers of women
put Into the executive departments and , ese-
vhe-re as charwomen nnd "laborers , " most
of the latter doing clerical or other skilled
vork at ? 40 to ? U5 a month. Under the
nresunt administration there Is none of that
> rcjudlce against women emplojes which was
entertained so markedly by John G. Carlisle
and Hoke Smith , who cut ofT the heads of
high-salaried women right and left and freely
expressed the opinion that no woman's work
could be worth more than $1,200 a year.
The figures show that the- District of Co-
umbla. with 118 appointments of women
during the year , Is lar in advance of all the
: tates In respect to the number of women
appointed to office. Of this large number 100
a e printers' assistants and "skilled" labor-
crj In the bureau of engraving and the gov
ernment printing office , drawing $1.23 to $1.00
a day as wages. Of the rest there are teach
ers In the Indian service at $550 to $600 a
year ; ono Is a translator In the Department
of State nt $1,200 , and five are attendants In
government hospitals at $14 a month and
jcard. Next after the District of Columbia
comes Illinois , with twenty-four women nil-
pointed eighteen of them "assistant nilcro-
accyilsts" at $ COO a year , whoso duty It 13 to
imped the meat of cattle and hogs for pos
sible disease ; two Indian teachers at $ GOO , two
; > rlntors' assistants , one cook at an Indian
school at $500 and one ablstant matron In
the same school at $4SO.
Thu Indian bureau Is offering , just at
present , by far the best opportunities for
women under the government. The avail
able places reserved for persons of that sex ,
ard numerous and well paid. Cooks at the
schools and agencies , for example , get $4SO
GIRLS' TRAVELING CLOAK.
to $500 a year , and they are not obliged to
do mental work , Their business Is merely
to teach the little aborigines how to toss the
nimble flapjack , manipulate the toothsome
piecrust and comminute the over popular
hash. It Is the tame way with the laun-
< lresses and seamstresses In that service ,
who receive from $100 to $500 per annum ,
with a prospect ot promotion to the po.il-
tlou of matron.
It will bo seen that such appointments
nru well worth having , notwithstanding the
fact that the Indian schools and agencies
are mostly scattered over the far west. For
these Institutions matrons weru appolnteO
during the last twelvemonth from North
Carolina , Ohio and Oregon , and the post-
tlons In question ore worth from $500 to
JGCO a year. They are the only offices under
government which en accessible through
marriage. For It U a fact that the wife ot
any luperlntendent of an Indian school or
agency la always the preferred candidate
lor the plat of matron there. Only a few
| weeks ago a young woman named Kittle A.
Hayca secured the motronshlp nt one of the
schools by the simple process of marrying a
Mr. Moaghcr. who was the nupcrinlcndcnt.
The Indian service calls tor ft Rrcat many
teachers , whoso duty it Is to instruct the
Infant redskins In reading , writing and
other polite accomplishments. Of these ,
forty-three wore appointed during the
twelve months ciuloJ September 1C. 1S97.
Seven were furnished by Kansas , one by
Missouri , two by Washington state , ono by
Colorado , three by California , two by Michi
gan , two by Iowa , two by Minnesota , ono by
Wisconsin , two by Illinois , tour by Pennsyl
vania , ono by Virginia , three by the Dis
trict of Columbia , four 1 > > Ohb. three by
Indiana , one by 'Maryland ' , one by Massa
chusetts , one by Oklahoma and enL by Idaho.
They get $540 to $ GCO pr annum. Two of
them , stationed at Fort Helknap , Mont. , and
Tort Louis , Cole , are obliged to give extra ,
instruction In vocal and Instrumental music ,
which Is expected to be Tory valuable to
the copper-colored adolescent. <
Only n few years ago all the women. In
Uncle Sam's employ weio on n dead level of
mediocrity , BO far as statuj was concerned.
They wcro all In subordinate positions. At
present It Is quite otherwise. Thcro are
women In places of authority In the govern
ment service. One of them is chief li
brarian In. the bureau of public documents ,
Two mere girls were appointed only the
other day to very responsible ofllccs , as
translators of French and Portuguese , In
the bureau of American republics , at $ lGOl )
a year each. The women exports engaged in
reading Illegible addresses at the Postofllco
department could not bo replaced by equally
competent men. , 'and the same is true of
the v > omrn who dissect and identify the
paper money damaged In all sorts of acci
dents which comes to the treasury for re
demption. It Is admitted that male human
brings can not execute these tanks as ef
ficiently as those of the gentler tex. The
faculty of Intuition helps , perhaps.
Women , are e\en Invading the doma'n of
science1. Ono of the appointments during
the last twelvemonth has been that of a
female "agrostologlst" from Tennessee , nt
$1)00 ) per annum. This being trcnslated sig
nifies an export In grasses , the study of
which has been , taken up by the Depirtmont
of Agriculture recently.
Already in the government service there
are women botanists , women ott-uologlsts
and women experts In crabs and lobsters
( attached to the Smithsonian Institution ) ,
while the most accurate living artist In the
representation of Insects Is attached to the
bureau of Ditoniology at Washington.
It Is a fact worth noticing that only ono
woman clerk , definitely classified ns such ,
has been appointed In tlie last year. She
comes from Tennessee , and Is working now
In the office of the postofllce Inspector at
Chattanooga at JOOO per annum. Of stenog
raphers and typewriters , who come under a
different head , ten of the gentler sex were
taken Into Uncle Sam's employ. Two of
thorn were furnhhed by South Carolina ,
while- one each came from Now York. Con
necticut , Kentucky , Rhode Island , Wlacrn-
sin. South Carolina. New Jersey , Maine and
Ohio : They get $000 to $900 apiece. The
latent otflce has newly acquired a woman
Ingulst from Ohio at $720 , whose business
t h to translate French and Germsn pat
ents , In order that the patent examiners
nay know about foreign Inventions.
Another woman translator ropolnted dur-
iif ? the twelve months la Ml s Stahlneckcr.
Th'cs Is the young woman who applied for a
place In the War department and was turned
lown , after beating all her male rivals out
of sight. The requirements Included half a
dozen languages , as well fls knowledge of
other things , which might have "stumped" a
Cambridge oenlor wrangler. She answered
everything correctly and then was rejected
because the ofliclal in control declared she
could not climb a ladder for books. It was
not that she was really unable to climb , but
simply that he feared a shock to his modesty
jy tlio Injudicious display of her ankles.
Subsequently Miss Stahlneoker secured the
place which she now holds In the Depart
ment of State.
This woman , In truth , was very fortunate
to get Into the Department of State , where
: l\o draws $1,200 u year , and U not obliged
to show her ankles. There 1ms been hitherto
a strong prejudice against persons of her EOX
In that department , on the giound that they
are supposed not to bo able to keep a secret.
It goes without saying that diplomatic se
crets are particularly precious , and. It would
bo a dreadful thing if any one of them leaked
out through the channels of feminine gossip.
Another quite amusing ease , similar to MIs > s
Stahlnecker's , was that of a yomg woman
who , not long ago , wanted to get a place
In the Navy department. She failed. Her
examinations were passed brilliantly , but
hero again Ihe ladder objection was put for
ward. She offered to wear bloomers , but
that wouldn't do. Finally the bureau oltl-
clal who controlled the appointment declared
that the fatal objection was her iFrench.
which he had found weak. This seemed to
her rather odd , Inasmuch os she was of
Fiench parentage , and had been born and
brought up in Paris , but , of course , the
olllclal knew brat.
The petticoat In clilco was a thing unheard
of until war times , when General Spinner
employed , tow of the sex to cut notes apart
with shears. Today the personnel of the
Treasury department Is half made up of
women , who do practically all of the money
counting and over so much else of the
responsible work. There are In all about
15,000 women In the employ of the govern
ment , and of thin number 0,100 are In
Washington. Of the rest 7,500 are post-
mleticsEcs and postolllce clerlu scattered over
the country.
One reason why women ore securing Im-
portnnt places In Uncle Sam's employ Is
that exceptionally qualified members of the
sax are able and willing to accept such po-
bitlons 'at salaries which properly equipped
men can not afford to take. Thus , many
women of really superior attainments are
drifting Into the public service. A trouble
against which they must contend Is the
Btlll-survlvlng prejudice on the part of
many officials ogainst their employment. It
Is claimed that they expect special favor
at the hands of authority , that they have
too many sick days , and that they ore not
willing to be considered as on a par with
the male clerks In a business way. Some
chiefs , In calling upon the Civil Service com-
minion , are npi to ask for a male clerk or
typewriter rather than for one of the op
posite sex , simply because , In their view ,
a man Is more manageable.
Generally speaking , the proportion of fo-
maies to males appointed In the departments
5 ! Washington is about one to six. During
the last twelve months , taklnil In the whole
country , there have been placed In the classl.
fiod service thirty-eight male clerks , 100 male
stenographers and typewriters , 100 firemen
HO watchmen , and about 300 miscellaneous
male employes ,
A Monnsr WI.VTKH C.VIUIKV.
How In .V < lu rn the Sunny WliultntH of
( lie Home ,
Few women jealize the refining Influence
of lion era in the homo until they see the de
light with which children "watch it grow. '
Given a broad shelf In a sunny window the
children will coon have a saucer garden thai
will nourish free of expense all winter. The
knowledge demanded of the little gardeners
IB very simple.
Gentle heat and moisture cause fresh
seeds to germinate , during which process
they require darkness , When sprouted In
troduce to the light by decrees , and keep
constantly watered , but not wet.
In a deep china plate place a layer of cot
ton wfddlng cut to fit. Soak with warm
water and sprinkle with kernels of fresh
corn , raw peanuts , dried peas or even orange
seeds. A dozen acorns will soon be a forest
fit for the fairies. An onion , a sweet potato
tate , or a turnip will thrive in a wldo-
mouthed bottle filled to the brim. A sponge
dripping with warm water and sown with
Has need will soon form a ball of green.
Moneywort only asks a pretty vaao flllec
with pebbles and water. Nasturtiums and
morning glory < ced kept lor a d jr In *
SMART WINTER COATS.
cup of warm water and then planted In the
deep saucer of a flower pot will flourish. A
larsley plant In n shallow pot Is as orna-
ncntal as It la useful. In a shallow hot
sow watercress for the family use. A thin ,
cd carrot , half planted In a seedling pot ,
shows graceful , feathery fronds.
Geranium slips make root quickly In water.
Cut holes In a , pleco of cardboard fitted to
cover the mouth of a glass , Support the
slips In this frame , and watch the rootlets
grow.
Most children have seen the Chinese Illy
; rowlng In Us bed of pebbles. Hotter still
s the hyarlnth bulb set In the mouth of n
glass Jar full of water. Soon the waxen
oots will almost fill the jar ; then the llower
ilooms.
AX AMERICAN KKVl'TOr.OfilhT.
Mrx. Itotvlnittilin Arlili'v IIIK Vnliiii *
llsIl\i' ( ( Ion UN tin Orlrntnl Si'liolnr.
Mrs. Runlcc L. W. Howbottom of Jersey
City , X. J. , is ho probable Amelia n. Ed
wards , or Amerlcani Egyptologist of the fu-
turu. She has ! studied diligently for ten
years , has lectured successfully In different
cities and will dovptc her time In future
to the platform and to translating papyri
nnd exhaustive J travel and exploration In
Egypt. : ! i
Mrs. Rowottom Isia young and attractive
woman , a devoted Another and an accom-
MRS. ROWBOTTOM.
pllshcd housewife. Her father was a pro
fessor of Greek , and through hla influence
and association she became , early in life ,
an oriental scholar.
Ten years ago , when recovering from an
Illness , some friend sent her a copy of "Ten
Thousand Miles Up the Nile. " This she
read with avidity , and while otlll confined
to her bed she taught herself hieroglyphics
and Egyptlin mythology , after which she
road Ucvntian h'ntorv. literature , fiction.
poetry ccs-says and Egyptian commonplaces
In short , everything tint has any bearing
whatcve.- the subject. The Jersey City
library , proud of her researches , has sent
abroad and procured works for her special
use. "The Egyptian Ritual of Life and
Death , " which Is known as "Tho Rook of
the Dead , " Mrs. Rowbottom found almost
Impossible to get at the Aster library In
New York , whoie , because the book Is so rare ,
on attendant was detailed to watch at her
elbow while she read It. In Brooklyn the
library authorities , charged her for Its pe
rusal. So the Jersey City library sent abroad
for a copy of this oriental literary treasure.
Mrs , Howbottom la now translating a
papyrus which IB the story of Queen Hatasu's
voyage to tha land of Punt. Queen Ilatnsu
Introduced calling vrasols , and was alto
gether progressive. She was the "new
woman" of her time. Envoya came to
her from all over the world , and the queen ,
clover woman that she was , always went
out to meet nuch personages dressed In the
national costume of her visitor , Moreover
she Invariably assumed at such times the
peculiar dialect of her guest , a combination
of dress and language which never failed
to make her popular.
Queen Hatasu reigned fifty years Mru.
Rowbo'tom says , and she it was , undoubte ly ,
who originated thn Suez canal , because when
Do Lezseps mail a his excavations he found
her cartouche on the stones. She sent an
expedition to the ) and of Punt , for myrrh , In
addition lo which her ships brought back
pigmies nnd green monkeys , This queen was
even moro advanced 'than Elizabeth of Eng
land , for her reign was all for peace and
progress in the arts , particularly liv
architecture. She > was a Pbarach , and as
such her rank- i obliged hr to learn
architecture.
In this good -queen's old ago lier adopted
EOU , who was bar nephew , found some way
of getting rid of her , whether by assassina
tion or seclusionrh \ one knows.
"Women , " says ( Mrs. Rowbottom , "wcro
highly educated arid very scholarly In Queen
Hatasu's ' day. T.ljpy . were , too , supreme In
their own households. If they desired their
husbands not to enter all they had to do
was to put tlf6lr" little shoos outside the
door. When onthe ' throne Queen Hatasu al
ways wore -a fori of bloomers , the dress of
the male Pharachs , which was In reality un
accordion-plaited divided skirt , worn under
a short toga. This was when Egypt was In
Its prime. The women were finely educated ,
the children never Irreverent ,
"Men nettled ten times as much money
on their mothers as upon any other member
of their families , and the following words
ore Jrom the court poet , Ptapholep ; 'Re-
member thy mother. Did BII > not suffer for
theo ? And tdiouldat thou nut gladly care
for her now7' "
SPHAICS I.V MM ! TO.VGUKH.
Ui-iiinrUiiMtt I.litKiiUIIci l'OT iTH of n
Poor HiiiiKnrlaii Woman ,
"She speaks everything from Sanscrit to
hog Latin" la the way they express It at
Braddock , Pa. , when speaking of Mrs , Julia
Antonlsbln of that city. Her wonderful lin
guistic ability came to her as naturally us
wimmlng doe * to * duck. Her knowledge
Is not the rrault of. teaching , but of associa
tion with people of every tongue. She speaks
nlno languages fluently , yet elu * itrugglis
over the washtub In order that her six chil
dren can go to cchool. Mrs. Antojilshln was
born at Aroslamos , Hungary , thirty-two years
ugo Her parents were German. "When she
was C years old they moved to Anlxlna , Ger
many , who e she attended school for six ye.ir ,
this being the limit of schooling provided by
the government. Anlnlna wns a town of fac-
toili'3. where people of e\ery clliiK wereein -
p1ocd. In the streets and at school the
children were strangers to each other bu-
ca-jso of thi barrier of misunderstanding.
Time , however , unearthed the key to the
situation and eventually tlio little ones suc
ceeded In maste Ing the langu-tgi'j of their
playmates. In the schools nt Aiilnina they
were taught the German and Magyir tongues.
"Nino languages I picked up with the chil
dren , " said Mis. Antonlshln. "Some were
| i'.isy nnd EOIIIO wcro hard. I was not the only
child to do It. The Slavish , Hungarian ,
Polish , Ru sian , Bohemian , Roumanian ,
Magyar nnd Croatian languages are
much the same. That Is , tlio letters are the
same , but of course you do not sjteak them
allko. Today I can speak , te-id and write
cloven languages. Sometimes tlic squires
liero oill me to Interpret. It is not enough.
I must work to get education for my chll-
drsn. My husband labors at the Carnegie
furnace , but he docs not make enough. I
want so much to get to be Interpreter In the
courts. Then I could educate my children. "
When Mrs. Antonl 'hln Is not washing shra
s Ironing and when doing neither she Is try
ing to figure out an economic policy that will
give an education to her children.
IVintniiif I'n-liIOIIH ,
One of the latest novelties In sold trin
kets is a llttlo fan chain , fastened at the
side of the belt , from which a vary small
fan is suspended.
Crepe do chine , trimmed elaborately with
black Chanttlly lace In applique , makca
charming dinner dresses.
A. remarkably high-standing "Klondike"
collar appears on nowi very smart Jackets of
heavy boucle or broadcloth ,
Pink Is the leading color for evening
gowns , and if It Is combined -with violet
you have the latest whim of fashion.
Light colors In cloth are the correct thing
for afternoon and reception gowzis , and all
sorts of Jeweled embroidery on bright vel
vets are used as a trimming.
The noticeable feature of dress trimming
Is a floral applique , made of silk gulpuro
and braid. Jet , too , Is very conspicuously
mixed with embroidery.
Corded silks and ribbed wooleas. and vel
vets will bo very fashionably used for hand
some gowns , entire street costumes , redln-
gotcs and wraps this winter.
Lace Is universally used this season on
both light and dark gowns. We have lace
vests , lace cravats , lace bows | ji our hats ,
and lace everywhere that It can It arranged
with good effect.
The new muff Is a small mountain in size.
Ono of novel design , shown among the new
Importations , Is * made of black xlvet gath
ered in. double frills fully two and a half
Inches wide. These stand up like ruches
all over the foundation , and not In regular
lines , but rather curved itround , giving a
very peculiar effect. The velvet has the ap
pearance of being gathered several times and
the threads pulled out , leaving only the
marking of the stitches to show , A knot of
lace and n bunch of violets trim one side.
Small-patterned , self-colored taffeta silks
In beautiful evening shades are now sold In
popular qualities at from 75 cents to $1 a
yard.
Facings , rcvors or vests of white or
cream cloth still appear on some of the
handsomest cloth costumes for special wear.
This Is an easy and mos > t effective addi
tion to a gown and always a becoming ono.
The rage for the early part of the winter
will be for oddly shaped pelerines nud col
larettes , fichu shapes with long stole ends ,
and particularly for the Russian blouse in
fur , velvet , brocade , cloth or fabric matchIng -
Ing the gown.
There is no doubt that chinchilla will again
form OIIP of the very popular furs of the
winter. It Is stylish , refined In effect , nnd
very expensive. Silk velvet Russian blouse ? ,
capes and Jackets will bo very much trimmed
with this fur.
Many handsumo black gowns and costumes
will be worn thin winter , partly ns nn ef
fective contrast to the very rich colors that
will prevail , and t\trtly because of the beauty
and novelty of the new black materials and
the greatly Improved appearance of the more
familiar weaves.
Luce gowns of every sort and kind ore
fashionable. White nnibsels lace In n very
simple design , made over white taffeta , and
plainly hemmed at the bottom , makes one of
the pretty new evening drosses. It has long
tianspaicnt sleeves and a fichu trimmed with
Brussels edging "draped around the shoulders.
In coat shapes for the winter both semi-
loose and fitted thapea are favored. The
collars are still the familiar high-standing
bands , finished with braided or braid-edged
talyi , crenelated strips rjf velvet , fur-bordcicd
points , nnd other fancy shapes , formed and
decorated to 'confoim to the rest of the gar
ment. Most of the sleeves are very small
ccat shapes , or else- very much reduced mut
ton-leg styles , finished either with a flare
at the wrists or turned back with a deep
machine-stitched cuff.
Mrs. Cecelia E. Fcndler of Now York Is
now in Baltimore endeavoring to establish
a branch of the Woman's Health Protective
association in that city.
Janet Carlyle , who Is now living In To
ronto , Is the only surviving member of the
Immediate family of her brother , Thomas
Carlyle , the famous philosopher.
Miss Cecilia Beaux has lieen named as one
ot the ten International Jurors who will
award the medals and honors offered at the
Carnegie Art Institute at Plttsburg.
The governor general of Algeria has given
to Miss Cheller , a giaduato of the University
of Paris , charge of a .medical mission In the
mountains beyond filckro , where Her chief
work will bo the cam of native women and
children.
Miss Lillian Ilurd , who bus been elected
queen of Denver's great annual "Fntrthal of
Mountain and P'ain ' , " accepted Hie honor
only on condition that she should not bo
compelled to ride in the public street parade.
This Is n. concerslon never before made t
a , queen of the festival.
Mra. Patrick Collins of Boston wife of or-
Consul Collins , was recently given n dinner
by the women who accompanied the Ancient
and Honorable Artillery on their recent trip
abroad.
Ellen Terry has n very nlmplo recipe for
the retention of youth and beauty. You
must work till tired. Bleep till rested , have
plenty of fresh air , live In cooV rooms , tnito
n dally nponge bath and eat the simplest
food.
food.Miss
Miss Llzzlo 0. Thomas , a prominent young
Florida woninn , hi ; gone to Hiroshima , Ja
pan , to take charge 01 a school there , under
the dtivctlon of the Methodist Episcopal
church. Miss Thomas will piobably stay IIvo
years.
Taxidermy Is ono of the latrat fada ot Now
York women. It Is wald that Mrs. John
Jacob Aslor started the fashion by leurnliiR
tlio iirt in order that she could preserve with
her own hands tlio feathered trophies of her
hunting expeditions.
Mrs. Olle Ilnmby of Cobb county , Georgia ,
Is the twenty-sixth child born to her pa-
rtnts. Mrs. Hamby had seven1 brothers wlio
were Baptist preachers , and has six nephews
engaged In the name calling. Her descend
ants now number seventy-seven.
Miss Gladstone , who , now that she h.as
severed her connection with Mcwnham , Is al
ways with her father and mother. Is an en
thusiastic cyclist , nnd duilng her parents'
stay in Perthshire she has accomplished
many long journeys of exploration.
LI Hung Chang has appointed a woman
Physician to practice in his own family. She
is Miss Eng , the daughter of a Chinaman
who took hla degree at Jii American univer
sity. She holds a diploma of the Women's
Medical college of Philadelphia , Dr. Ens
and Miss Wang will represent China nt 11m
Women's congress to bo held In London the
coming year.
Mrs. Klbabeth llamlln of Ji'fforsonvllle ,
Ind. , recently refused a check for $10,000
from her brother , Wlnflcld Stiatton , the mil
lionaire mining king of Cripple Creek , Colo.
Stratton was born and raised In Indiana ,
and after becoming rich refused to have any
thing to do with his sister on account of B
misunderstanding which they hid years ago.
A few weeks ago ho sent to etch of her two
sons , Karl and Hurry , checks for $5,000 each ,
Englishwomen wno hive to earn their liv
ing are encouraged by advertisements like
this , printed by the Westminster Garotte :
"To Ladles ot Some Small Means Wanted ,
from October , a gentlewoman by descent , ac
customed to domestic woik by clrcum-
Mancrs ; single , early middle uju ; ; fond of
actlvo Ufo and open air ; must lough It , but
not with rough people ; plain home , laundry ,
share of what Is going ; no stipend ; describe
what used to do flrat by letter. "
The greatest heiress In the world Is the
baby grand duchcr s Olga , daughter of the
czar of Russia. At piesent she Is the rich
est person in the world nnd what she will
Inherit Is beyond computation. The Grand
Duchesti Olga was horn In 1S95 and Is tha
elder of two daughters. Her bassinet U
studded with precious Atones and she has a
doll whose dress Is oiiianirntrd with price
less emeralds. Every pin IIHCI ! to fasten her
Imperial garments is made of imro gold.
716 I3tb Street , LoursviMJj , Kv.
May loth , 1897.
I am 19 years old mid run n machine all day.
I happened to get a ladies' Uirthdny Almanac
nnd saw Wine of Cnrdul was what I needed. I
couldn't bear to KO to n physician about my
trouble ns he would want to examine me. I used
Wine of Cardui with thu very best retults. It
Kit benefitted uie right away.
Miss ANNIU GKIMME.
PAHKDAI.U , Ark. , Jan. ssth.
When my wife commenced taking McIJlree's
Wine of Cardui she could hardly walk : across the
room , so great was the pain that it caused her.
She has used two bottles of the Wine and some
Tliedford's Black-Draught tea. Now she is doing
I'61 ' housework , and has gained fifteen pounds
in weight in three months.
CHARLES I'RUEMAN.
It is torture for a woman to work all day when she is
suffering from " female diseases " , But thousands of
women in stores , factories and homes , do that every day.
Sometimes they delay treatment because th y won't sub
mit to a physician's "private examination" or ' 'local treat
ment" , Others can't afford to pay exhorbitant fees. But
nearly every woman can have such good health that her
work will not cause suffering , And that can be brought
about by taking Wine of Cardui at home. This great
remedy cures all " female diseases ' ' and gives tone and
strength to a woman's whole system. It puts her in
condition to stand the strain to which her work subjects
her , At the first indication of any female trouble Wine
of Cardui should be secured. $1.00 at Drug Stores ,
