10 THE OMAHA DAILY iftlETS : SUN IAT , OCTOUEH 10 , 1807. B. "V . IN THF. DOMAIN OF WOMAN. 1V * 1 FASIIIO.VUII.i : I-'UHS. Bplrnilor of Wliili-r > ! ! Cnli'iilnlrrt to Dnr.rlo. NnW YORK , Oct. 7. Hxccpt for elderly women , the long fur cape Is practically dis carded this stnson in favor of the smart Jacket , which Is certainly more youthful and genially becoming. The small sleeve lias doubtless as much to do with this as the fact that the majority of women ore tired of clumsy effects. Many women , however , mindful of the original cost , will liavo scruples about chopping up a garment which represents a good lound sum to bc- ln with. And It Is certainly an adjunct , os an all-round useful family wrap , to n complete wardrobe , where , of course , there are several others. Perhaps the cutting ehould bo discouraged on general principles , but having passed through the vicissitudes of several seasons , It Is justifiable. The. ad vent of the coat sleeve will make It cut to bettor advantage than for some seasons past. The very short ripple capo Is Btlll In favor , as It can't very well bo dispensed with as a carriage wrap over light bodices or for the theater , where It Is always a difficult matter to shed a tight-fitting jacket gracefully without { tutting red In the face or exciting the wrath of one's escort. The PERSIAN LAMB PKULKRINE. ripple cape of Persian lamb or chinchilla Is still to the front , despite the general Im pression heretofore that , chinchilla had been done to doith and run Into the ground. But the authorities on such vital question1 ; say nay and , thnt chinchilla has taken anew now lease of life and promises to bo very fashionable the coming winter. Nothing short ot the adjertive gorgeous U befitting to describe somu of the magnifi cent creations In furs from the other ulde. Epaulettes and belts of jewels , trimmings of lace 'and velvet and more jewels strung along down the front or nlilo are sonic featmcs of ultra smart Jackets this season. The old- fasloncd Idea that a handsome sealskin ccat Was flue enough In Itsulf and needed no such frivolous aids as jewels , lace or velvet , has died a natural death and will bo a long time resurrecting , SMARTEST THING IN JACKKTS. The Jluss'.an blouse is about the smartest tiling Irt jackets this season. A very hand some ono IB of sealskin , with the necessary fulness front 'and back , and all around , for that matter. They all have the short , full bapqucs and coat sleeves with a slight ful ness at the top. The high flaring collar and wide rovers are of Russian sable. Jeweled belt and epaulettes compcscd of any or all the gems under thu sun. With Arizona rubles , womlcrful rhlnestrnrs and nil the .multifold Unit clans Imitations of pjarls , , turquolse8 , emeralds , sapphires , etc. , a surprising air of magnificence Is brought about , and Solomon , in all his glory , was not nrrnjcd like ono of these. The return ing Klondlkcr with empty pockets anil Monlu'Crlsto tales will bo dazzled Into upecchlcssnoss. for wcmen who are not rid ing in their chaises , however , Ic s striking or pon-jcwolcd attachments will bu In order. The same b'.oune , with collar and ruvoru of Hudson bay tdblp , and jeweled belt as hand- stfmo ixs the wearer's purse will allow is a happy cumpiomlse ; or an clastic velvet bell in Ecctlons , fastened In front with a huge buckle , round or sijuaie , of flashing jowcl.i. Tippet of sable or stone marten has a mnUlpllulty of titllH , the long er < ls and roum collar being entirely mudu of them , a llttlo animal's head nestles In 'the group at the back of tha neck. The old-fashioned pclovlno Is In vogue again. And aery handsome one Is made ot purslnn lamb' with high flaring collar am very long cnda liv front , finished with stone marten tails. Thu , outlines of the llguro and waist uie. defined In front , and altogether the pdpvlno U a vast Improvement on the Ion ; ; cape , which mada no ilntinctlons ] , am bllm elegant lines aa well aw more Juno Ilka proportion -were hidden alike In Its heavy foidn , A'very .smart coat Is of black cloth braidcc on ( hu bodice , bamiuo and tops of leovo It has a high flaring collar and wide revers of peralau lamb , Coat sleeve with a reason nblu amount of fullnets nt the top. A hand- name jet or steel belt looks well with this dlOAS AN MUFFS. A stylish tippet U made of I'erelan lamb The round collar and long ends In front are Unbilled with some marten tails and the little animals' heads. A bright rllk llnlnt , U very effective. Very many of the now fur boas are long onutiKb io reach the bottom of the slrlrt li front , Some nru made entirely nt Russian Fable , Hudson's bay or stone nurten tails With these lucu and jowcla am often Intro duccd and are simply stunning worn ovc light silk bodices or wen a ball toilette upoi occasions. Muffs nru medium sized ; a very elegan ono Is of blue fox , daintily lined and with a culo llttlo pocket in thu back , IA very con vvnltmt addition for pocketbook and hand kerchief. Very prc-tly collarettes are o fur , made In a sort of box plait or rlppl effect , with a very full rutllu of lace flllli.g up and softening otherwise stltl outlines These are rmltc expensive and becoming t long , narrow faces and Bllm women gciier ally.A . A Btyllah traveling coat for a llttlo girl 1 of blue cloth ; thu front and back Is mad r. n with a large box plitt lu the middle. It ha a turn-down collar over a btralght one , The eleeve Is semi-bouffant , but quite snug io the elbow , Tliu revere ore cut square and form a paint front and back Just < it the top of the box plait. The cloak Is fastened In the anlddlQ between the rovers. CufTs , collar nd ret erg are braided. With this li worn a browu felt hat , with wide brim ; It U trimmed with a narrow velvet ruchtng and l&nse bow at the side. A very dilnty cloak tor a little tot for her beat bib aud tucker Is made of deep pink ottoman silk. It Is made with wide turks across the front and back of the body , which 'Is blmisc. A llttlo strip of ermine outlines thonvalot and an other finishes the neck , A simpler ono la of pearl gray cloth , plaited front and back. A wldo steel belt Is worn at the waist. These are for llttlo girls from 3 to 1 > or 7 years of age. Another Is of royal blue velvet trimmed with fur. NIJW GOWNS. , Many of the now silk gowns , whether In or colors , have the whole skirt em broidered 1n Jet or steel , elaborate patterns , which only stop at the waist line. In jet over watered silk the effect Is very elegant. On cloth this all-over braiding la also a brand new feature and very gencrJl. For house gowns nothing Is prettier than cashmere , and after the lapse of several years It has resumed all its old prestige. It Is the gown for the debutante and the Ingenue , and nothing his as yet been found to equal Its soft , clinging tendencies , nun's veiling and orepon both proving unsatisfac tory' ' when put to the test. A very Frenchy and becoming house gown , .which demands a good complexion , Is of pale violet casli- mcro and made with n. plain skirt about four and a half yards wldo , over a. nepirate petticoat of jonquil yellow silk. It Is made with a lound. medium bodice , opening over a cJiemlsutte in front of white moussellno do dole. Three little frills of silk Uie same shade trim the front and back ot bodice , forming a. sort of surplice nnd com ing to a point In ifront , finished , with a bow- n.id ends. The sleeve Is tight , the solo trimming are three little frills at the top , 'which ' meets the others , giving the necea- oiry width to make it becoming. The sleeve Is finished with a rufllo of moussellne de solo falling over the h.ind. A aash ot violet silk with a knot and Ions ends at the sldu completes the costume. The same color schcmo Is very elegant carried out in silk , for a reception or visiting gown. A hat. all vblet And turned straight up at the side with pufiliig of violet silk. U Is trimmed with ostnich ifeathera and bird of paradise , a symphony In violet. The , cre poi * skirt still lingers , but Is not , as heretofore , the foundation of a well regu lated wardrobe. Its usefulness cannot be denied , and us an accompaniment of the silk bodice , which 'has ' never been - completely pletely retired , It Jias no equal. A very useful gown , which Is likely to be 'woni ' a do/en tlmcn to another's one , has a black crcpon skirt vllh a wldo crinkleIt ; Is per fectly plain < and of medium fulness. The silk bodice la made with three groups or tucks on either olde of the front and con tinuing round the back. In thy middle there Is a straight pleco of silk with bias tucks , finished with a little niching down line sides. The sleeve la tight-fitting , with a small , divided puff nt the shoulder and a ruflle of moussellne at the wrist. EMILY HAZARD. ) | M > rfiiiilif OnVrcil < < > tin * Gentler Ni-x In I lie ( iijvt'riniiPiit Si'rvl < ' ' . Ruinous have gone abroad ot late , writes a Vashington correspondent , to the effect that vomcn nro being crowded out of the govern ment service. Fgures , however , do not en dorse any such belief. During the twelve months ending September 15 , 1897 , no tower hin 3d persons of the gentler sex were ippolnted to places through examination by ho Civil Service commission. This reckoning does not Include large numbers of women put Into the executive departments and , ese- vhe-re as charwomen nnd "laborers , " most of the latter doing clerical or other skilled vork at ? 40 to ? U5 a month. Under the nresunt administration there Is none of that > rcjudlce against women emplojes which was entertained so markedly by John G. Carlisle and Hoke Smith , who cut ofT the heads of high-salaried women right and left and freely expressed the opinion that no woman's work could be worth more than $1,200 a year. The figures show that the- District of Co- umbla. with 118 appointments of women during the year , Is lar in advance of all the : tates In respect to the number of women appointed to office. Of this large number 100 a e printers' assistants and "skilled" labor- crj In the bureau of engraving and the gov ernment printing office , drawing $1.23 to $1.00 a day as wages. Of the rest there are teach ers In the Indian service at $550 to $600 a year ; ono Is a translator In the Department of State nt $1,200 , and five are attendants In government hospitals at $14 a month and jcard. Next after the District of Columbia comes Illinois , with twenty-four women nil- pointed eighteen of them "assistant nilcro- accyilsts" at $ COO a year , whoso duty It 13 to imped the meat of cattle and hogs for pos sible disease ; two Indian teachers at $ GOO , two ; > rlntors' assistants , one cook at an Indian school at $500 and one ablstant matron In the same school at $4SO. Thu Indian bureau Is offering , just at present , by far the best opportunities for women under the government. The avail able places reserved for persons of that sex , ard numerous and well paid. Cooks at the schools and agencies , for example , get $4SO GIRLS' TRAVELING CLOAK. to $500 a year , and they are not obliged to do mental work , Their business Is merely to teach the little aborigines how to toss the nimble flapjack , manipulate the toothsome piecrust and comminute the over popular hash. It Is the tame way with the laun- < lresses and seamstresses In that service , who receive from $100 to $500 per annum , with a prospect ot promotion to the po.il- tlou of matron. It will bo seen that such appointments nru well worth having , notwithstanding the fact that the Indian schools and agencies are mostly scattered over the far west. For these Institutions matrons weru appolnteO during the last twelvemonth from North Carolina , Ohio and Oregon , and the post- tlons In question ore worth from $500 to JGCO a year. They are the only offices under government which en accessible through marriage. For It U a fact that the wife ot any luperlntendent of an Indian school or agency la always the preferred candidate lor the plat of matron there. Only a few | weeks ago a young woman named Kittle A. Hayca secured the motronshlp nt one of the schools by the simple process of marrying a Mr. Moaghcr. who was the nupcrinlcndcnt. The Indian service calls tor ft Rrcat many teachers , whoso duty it Is to instruct the Infant redskins In reading , writing and other polite accomplishments. Of these , forty-three wore appointed during the twelve months ciuloJ September 1C. 1S97. Seven were furnished by Kansas , one by Missouri , two by Washington state , ono by Colorado , three by California , two by Michi gan , two by Iowa , two by Minnesota , ono by Wisconsin , two by Illinois , tour by Pennsyl vania , ono by Virginia , three by the Dis trict of Columbia , four 1 > > Ohb. three by Indiana , one by 'Maryland ' , one by Massa chusetts , one by Oklahoma and enL by Idaho. They get $540 to $ GCO pr annum. Two of them , stationed at Fort Helknap , Mont. , and Tort Louis , Cole , are obliged to give extra , instruction In vocal and Instrumental music , which Is expected to be Tory valuable to the copper-colored adolescent. < Only n few years ago all the women. In Uncle Sam's employ weio on n dead level of mediocrity , BO far as statuj was concerned. They wcro all In subordinate positions. At present It Is quite otherwise. Thcro are women In places of authority In the govern ment service. One of them is chief li brarian In. the bureau of public documents , Two mere girls were appointed only the other day to very responsible ofllccs , as translators of French and Portuguese , In the bureau of American republics , at $ lGOl ) a year each. The women exports engaged in reading Illegible addresses at the Postofllco department could not bo replaced by equally competent men. , 'and the same is true of the v > omrn who dissect and identify the paper money damaged In all sorts of acci dents which comes to the treasury for re demption. It Is admitted that male human brings can not execute these tanks as ef ficiently as those of the gentler tex. The faculty of Intuition helps , perhaps. Women , are e\en Invading the doma'n of science1. Ono of the appointments during the last twelvemonth has been that of a female "agrostologlst" from Tennessee , nt $1)00 ) per annum. This being trcnslated sig nifies an export In grasses , the study of which has been , taken up by the Depirtmont of Agriculture recently. Already in the government service there are women botanists , women ott-uologlsts and women experts In crabs and lobsters ( attached to the Smithsonian Institution ) , while the most accurate living artist In the representation of Insects Is attached to the bureau of Ditoniology at Washington. It Is a fact worth noticing that only ono woman clerk , definitely classified ns such , has been appointed In tlie last year. She comes from Tennessee , and Is working now In the office of the postofllce Inspector at Chattanooga at JOOO per annum. Of stenog raphers and typewriters , who come under a different head , ten of the gentler sex were taken Into Uncle Sam's employ. Two of thorn were furnhhed by South Carolina , while- one each came from Now York. Con necticut , Kentucky , Rhode Island , Wlacrn- sin. South Carolina. New Jersey , Maine and Ohio : They get $000 to $900 apiece. The latent otflce has newly acquired a woman Ingulst from Ohio at $720 , whose business t h to translate French and Germsn pat ents , In order that the patent examiners nay know about foreign Inventions. Another woman translator ropolnted dur- iif ? the twelve months la Ml s Stahlneckcr. Th'cs Is the young woman who applied for a place In the War department and was turned lown , after beating all her male rivals out of sight. The requirements Included half a dozen languages , as well fls knowledge of other things , which might have "stumped" a Cambridge oenlor wrangler. She answered everything correctly and then was rejected because the ofliclal in control declared she could not climb a ladder for books. It was not that she was really unable to climb , but simply that he feared a shock to his modesty jy tlio Injudicious display of her ankles. Subsequently Miss Stahlneoker secured the place which she now holds In the Depart ment of State. This woman , In truth , was very fortunate to get Into the Department of State , where : l\o draws $1,200 u year , and U not obliged to show her ankles. There 1ms been hitherto a strong prejudice against persons of her EOX In that department , on the giound that they are supposed not to bo able to keep a secret. It goes without saying that diplomatic se crets are particularly precious , and. It would bo a dreadful thing if any one of them leaked out through the channels of feminine gossip. Another quite amusing ease , similar to MIs > s Stahlnecker's , was that of a yomg woman who , not long ago , wanted to get a place In the Navy department. She failed. Her examinations were passed brilliantly , but hero again Ihe ladder objection was put for ward. She offered to wear bloomers , but that wouldn't do. Finally the bureau oltl- clal who controlled the appointment declared that the fatal objection was her iFrench. which he had found weak. This seemed to her rather odd , Inasmuch os she was of Fiench parentage , and had been born and brought up in Paris , but , of course , the olllclal knew brat. The petticoat In clilco was a thing unheard of until war times , when General Spinner employed , tow of the sex to cut notes apart with shears. Today the personnel of the Treasury department Is half made up of women , who do practically all of the money counting and over so much else of the responsible work. There are In all about 15,000 women In the employ of the govern ment , and of thin number 0,100 are In Washington. Of the rest 7,500 are post- mleticsEcs and postolllce clerlu scattered over the country. One reason why women ore securing Im- portnnt places In Uncle Sam's employ Is that exceptionally qualified members of the sax are able and willing to accept such po- bitlons 'at salaries which properly equipped men can not afford to take. Thus , many women of really superior attainments are drifting Into the public service. A trouble against which they must contend Is the Btlll-survlvlng prejudice on the part of many officials ogainst their employment. It Is claimed that they expect special favor at the hands of authority , that they have too many sick days , and that they ore not willing to be considered as on a par with the male clerks In a business way. Some chiefs , In calling upon the Civil Service com- minion , are npi to ask for a male clerk or typewriter rather than for one of the op posite sex , simply because , In their view , a man Is more manageable. Generally speaking , the proportion of fo- maies to males appointed In the departments 5 ! Washington is about one to six. During the last twelve months , taklnil In the whole country , there have been placed In the classl. fiod service thirty-eight male clerks , 100 male stenographers and typewriters , 100 firemen HO watchmen , and about 300 miscellaneous male employes , A Monnsr WI.VTKH C.VIUIKV. How In .V < lu rn the Sunny WliultntH of ( lie Home , Few women jealize the refining Influence of lion era in the homo until they see the de light with which children "watch it grow. ' Given a broad shelf In a sunny window the children will coon have a saucer garden thai will nourish free of expense all winter. The knowledge demanded of the little gardeners IB very simple. Gentle heat and moisture cause fresh seeds to germinate , during which process they require darkness , When sprouted In troduce to the light by decrees , and keep constantly watered , but not wet. In a deep china plate place a layer of cot ton wfddlng cut to fit. Soak with warm water and sprinkle with kernels of fresh corn , raw peanuts , dried peas or even orange seeds. A dozen acorns will soon be a forest fit for the fairies. An onion , a sweet potato tate , or a turnip will thrive in a wldo- mouthed bottle filled to the brim. A sponge dripping with warm water and sown with Has need will soon form a ball of green. Moneywort only asks a pretty vaao flllec with pebbles and water. Nasturtiums and morning glory < ced kept lor a d jr In * SMART WINTER COATS. cup of warm water and then planted In the deep saucer of a flower pot will flourish. A larsley plant In n shallow pot Is as orna- ncntal as It la useful. In a shallow hot sow watercress for the family use. A thin , cd carrot , half planted In a seedling pot , shows graceful , feathery fronds. Geranium slips make root quickly In water. Cut holes In a , pleco of cardboard fitted to cover the mouth of a glass , Support the slips In this frame , and watch the rootlets grow. Most children have seen the Chinese Illy ; rowlng In Us bed of pebbles. Hotter still s the hyarlnth bulb set In the mouth of n glass Jar full of water. Soon the waxen oots will almost fill the jar ; then the llower ilooms. AX AMERICAN KKVl'TOr.OfilhT. Mrx. Itotvlnittilin Arlili'v IIIK Vnliiii * llsIl\i' ( ( Ion UN tin Orlrntnl Si'liolnr. Mrs. Runlcc L. W. Howbottom of Jersey City , X. J. , is ho probable Amelia n. Ed wards , or Amerlcani Egyptologist of the fu- turu. She has ! studied diligently for ten years , has lectured successfully In different cities and will dovptc her time In future to the platform and to translating papyri nnd exhaustive J travel and exploration In Egypt. : ! i Mrs. Rowottom Isia young and attractive woman , a devoted Another and an accom- MRS. ROWBOTTOM. pllshcd housewife. Her father was a pro fessor of Greek , and through hla influence and association she became , early in life , an oriental scholar. Ten years ago , when recovering from an Illness , some friend sent her a copy of "Ten Thousand Miles Up the Nile. " This she read with avidity , and while otlll confined to her bed she taught herself hieroglyphics and Egyptlin mythology , after which she road Ucvntian h'ntorv. literature , fiction. poetry ccs-says and Egyptian commonplaces In short , everything tint has any bearing whatcve.- the subject. The Jersey City library , proud of her researches , has sent abroad and procured works for her special use. "The Egyptian Ritual of Life and Death , " which Is known as "Tho Rook of the Dead , " Mrs. Rowbottom found almost Impossible to get at the Aster library In New York , whoie , because the book Is so rare , on attendant was detailed to watch at her elbow while she read It. In Brooklyn the library authorities , charged her for Its pe rusal. So the Jersey City library sent abroad for a copy of this oriental literary treasure. Mrs , Howbottom la now translating a papyrus which IB the story of Queen Hatasu's voyage to tha land of Punt. Queen Ilatnsu Introduced calling vrasols , and was alto gether progressive. She was the "new woman" of her time. Envoya came to her from all over the world , and the queen , clover woman that she was , always went out to meet nuch personages dressed In the national costume of her visitor , Moreover she Invariably assumed at such times the peculiar dialect of her guest , a combination of dress and language which never failed to make her popular. Queen Hatasu reigned fifty years Mru. Rowbo'tom says , and she it was , undoubte ly , who originated thn Suez canal , because when Do Lezseps mail a his excavations he found her cartouche on the stones. She sent an expedition to the ) and of Punt , for myrrh , In addition lo which her ships brought back pigmies nnd green monkeys , This queen was even moro advanced 'than Elizabeth of Eng land , for her reign was all for peace and progress in the arts , particularly liv architecture. She > was a Pbarach , and as such her rank- i obliged hr to learn architecture. In this good -queen's old ago lier adopted EOU , who was bar nephew , found some way of getting rid of her , whether by assassina tion or seclusionrh \ one knows. "Women , " says ( Mrs. Rowbottom , "wcro highly educated arid very scholarly In Queen Hatasu's ' day. T.ljpy . were , too , supreme In their own households. If they desired their husbands not to enter all they had to do was to put tlf6lr" little shoos outside the door. When onthe ' throne Queen Hatasu al ways wore -a fori of bloomers , the dress of the male Pharachs , which was In reality un accordion-plaited divided skirt , worn under a short toga. This was when Egypt was In Its prime. The women were finely educated , the children never Irreverent , "Men nettled ten times as much money on their mothers as upon any other member of their families , and the following words ore Jrom the court poet , Ptapholep ; 'Re- member thy mother. Did BII > not suffer for theo ? And tdiouldat thou nut gladly care for her now7' " SPHAICS I.V MM ! TO.VGUKH. Ui-iiinrUiiMtt I.litKiiUIIci l'OT iTH of n Poor HiiiiKnrlaii Woman , "She speaks everything from Sanscrit to hog Latin" la the way they express It at Braddock , Pa. , when speaking of Mrs , Julia Antonlsbln of that city. Her wonderful lin guistic ability came to her as naturally us wimmlng doe * to * duck. Her knowledge Is not the rrault of. teaching , but of associa tion with people of every tongue. She speaks nlno languages fluently , yet elu * itrugglis over the washtub In order that her six chil dren can go to cchool. Mrs. Antojilshln was born at Aroslamos , Hungary , thirty-two years ugo Her parents were German. "When she was C years old they moved to Anlxlna , Ger many , who e she attended school for six ye.ir , this being the limit of schooling provided by the government. Anlnlna wns a town of fac- toili'3. where people of e\ery clliiK wereein - p1ocd. In the streets and at school the children were strangers to each other bu- ca-jso of thi barrier of misunderstanding. Time , however , unearthed the key to the situation and eventually tlio little ones suc ceeded In maste Ing the langu-tgi'j of their playmates. In the schools nt Aiilnina they were taught the German and Magyir tongues. "Nino languages I picked up with the chil dren , " said Mis. Antonlshln. "Some were | i'.isy nnd EOIIIO wcro hard. I was not the only child to do It. The Slavish , Hungarian , Polish , Ru sian , Bohemian , Roumanian , Magyar nnd Croatian languages are much the same. That Is , tlio letters are the same , but of course you do not sjteak them allko. Today I can speak , te-id and write cloven languages. Sometimes tlic squires liero oill me to Interpret. It is not enough. I must work to get education for my chll- drsn. My husband labors at the Carnegie furnace , but he docs not make enough. I want so much to get to be Interpreter In the courts. Then I could educate my children. " When Mrs. Antonl 'hln Is not washing shra s Ironing and when doing neither she Is try ing to figure out an economic policy that will give an education to her children. IVintniiif I'n-liIOIIH , One of the latest novelties In sold trin kets is a llttlo fan chain , fastened at the side of the belt , from which a vary small fan is suspended. Crepe do chine , trimmed elaborately with black Chanttlly lace In applique , makca charming dinner dresses. A. remarkably high-standing "Klondike" collar appears on nowi very smart Jackets of heavy boucle or broadcloth , Pink Is the leading color for evening gowns , and if It Is combined -with violet you have the latest whim of fashion. Light colors In cloth are the correct thing for afternoon and reception gowzis , and all sorts of Jeweled embroidery on bright vel vets are used as a trimming. The noticeable feature of dress trimming Is a floral applique , made of silk gulpuro and braid. Jet , too , Is very conspicuously mixed with embroidery. Corded silks and ribbed wooleas. and vel vets will bo very fashionably used for hand some gowns , entire street costumes , redln- gotcs and wraps this winter. Lace Is universally used this season on both light and dark gowns. We have lace vests , lace cravats , lace bows | ji our hats , and lace everywhere that It can It arranged with good effect. The new muff Is a small mountain in size. Ono of novel design , shown among the new Importations , Is * made of black xlvet gath ered in. double frills fully two and a half Inches wide. These stand up like ruches all over the foundation , and not In regular lines , but rather curved itround , giving a very peculiar effect. The velvet has the ap pearance of being gathered several times and the threads pulled out , leaving only the marking of the stitches to show , A knot of lace and n bunch of violets trim one side. Small-patterned , self-colored taffeta silks In beautiful evening shades are now sold In popular qualities at from 75 cents to $1 a yard. Facings , rcvors or vests of white or cream cloth still appear on some of the handsomest cloth costumes for special wear. This Is an easy and mos > t effective addi tion to a gown and always a becoming ono. The rage for the early part of the winter will be for oddly shaped pelerines nud col larettes , fichu shapes with long stole ends , and particularly for the Russian blouse in fur , velvet , brocade , cloth or fabric matchIng - Ing the gown. There is no doubt that chinchilla will again form OIIP of the very popular furs of the winter. It Is stylish , refined In effect , nnd very expensive. Silk velvet Russian blouse ? , capes and Jackets will bo very much trimmed with this fur. Many handsumo black gowns and costumes will be worn thin winter , partly ns nn ef fective contrast to the very rich colors that will prevail , and t\trtly because of the beauty and novelty of the new black materials and the greatly Improved appearance of the more familiar weaves. Luce gowns of every sort and kind ore fashionable. White nnibsels lace In n very simple design , made over white taffeta , and plainly hemmed at the bottom , makes one of the pretty new evening drosses. It has long tianspaicnt sleeves and a fichu trimmed with Brussels edging "draped around the shoulders. In coat shapes for the winter both semi- loose and fitted thapea are favored. The collars are still the familiar high-standing bands , finished with braided or braid-edged talyi , crenelated strips rjf velvet , fur-bordcicd points , nnd other fancy shapes , formed and decorated to 'confoim to the rest of the gar ment. Most of the sleeves are very small ccat shapes , or else- very much reduced mut ton-leg styles , finished either with a flare at the wrists or turned back with a deep machine-stitched cuff. Mrs. Cecelia E. Fcndler of Now York Is now in Baltimore endeavoring to establish a branch of the Woman's Health Protective association in that city. Janet Carlyle , who Is now living In To ronto , Is the only surviving member of the Immediate family of her brother , Thomas Carlyle , the famous philosopher. Miss Cecilia Beaux has lieen named as one ot the ten International Jurors who will award the medals and honors offered at the Carnegie Art Institute at Plttsburg. The governor general of Algeria has given to Miss Cheller , a giaduato of the University of Paris , charge of a .medical mission In the mountains beyond filckro , where Her chief work will bo the cam of native women and children. Miss Lillian Ilurd , who bus been elected queen of Denver's great annual "Fntrthal of Mountain and P'ain ' , " accepted Hie honor only on condition that she should not bo compelled to ride in the public street parade. This Is n. concerslon never before made t a , queen of the festival. Mra. Patrick Collins of Boston wife of or- Consul Collins , was recently given n dinner by the women who accompanied the Ancient and Honorable Artillery on their recent trip abroad. Ellen Terry has n very nlmplo recipe for the retention of youth and beauty. You must work till tired. Bleep till rested , have plenty of fresh air , live In cooV rooms , tnito n dally nponge bath and eat the simplest food. food.Miss Miss Llzzlo 0. Thomas , a prominent young Florida woninn , hi ; gone to Hiroshima , Ja pan , to take charge 01 a school there , under the dtivctlon of the Methodist Episcopal church. Miss Thomas will piobably stay IIvo years. Taxidermy Is ono of the latrat fada ot Now York women. It Is wald that Mrs. John Jacob Aslor started the fashion by leurnliiR tlio iirt in order that she could preserve with her own hands tlio feathered trophies of her hunting expeditions. Mrs. Olle Ilnmby of Cobb county , Georgia , Is the twenty-sixth child born to her pa- rtnts. Mrs. Hamby had seven1 brothers wlio were Baptist preachers , and has six nephews engaged In the name calling. Her descend ants now number seventy-seven. Miss Gladstone , who , now that she h.as severed her connection with Mcwnham , Is al ways with her father and mother. Is an en thusiastic cyclist , nnd duilng her parents' stay in Perthshire she has accomplished many long journeys of exploration. LI Hung Chang has appointed a woman Physician to practice in his own family. She is Miss Eng , the daughter of a Chinaman who took hla degree at Jii American univer sity. She holds a diploma of the Women's Medical college of Philadelphia , Dr. Ens and Miss Wang will represent China nt 11m Women's congress to bo held In London the coming year. Mrs. Klbabeth llamlln of Ji'fforsonvllle , Ind. , recently refused a check for $10,000 from her brother , Wlnflcld Stiatton , the mil lionaire mining king of Cripple Creek , Colo. Stratton was born and raised In Indiana , and after becoming rich refused to have any thing to do with his sister on account of B misunderstanding which they hid years ago. A few weeks ago ho sent to etch of her two sons , Karl and Hurry , checks for $5,000 each , Englishwomen wno hive to earn their liv ing are encouraged by advertisements like this , printed by the Westminster Garotte : "To Ladles ot Some Small Means Wanted , from October , a gentlewoman by descent , ac customed to domestic woik by clrcum- Mancrs ; single , early middle uju ; ; fond of actlvo Ufo and open air ; must lough It , but not with rough people ; plain home , laundry , share of what Is going ; no stipend ; describe what used to do flrat by letter. " The greatest heiress In the world Is the baby grand duchcr s Olga , daughter of the czar of Russia. At piesent she Is the rich est person in the world nnd what she will Inherit Is beyond computation. The Grand Duchesti Olga was horn In 1S95 and Is tha elder of two daughters. Her bassinet U studded with precious Atones and she has a doll whose dress Is oiiianirntrd with price less emeralds. Every pin IIHCI ! to fasten her Imperial garments is made of imro gold. 716 I3tb Street , LoursviMJj , Kv. May loth , 1897. I am 19 years old mid run n machine all day. I happened to get a ladies' Uirthdny Almanac nnd saw Wine of Cnrdul was what I needed. I couldn't bear to KO to n physician about my trouble ns he would want to examine me. I used Wine of Cardui with thu very best retults. It Kit benefitted uie right away. Miss ANNIU GKIMME. PAHKDAI.U , Ark. , Jan. ssth. When my wife commenced taking McIJlree's Wine of Cardui she could hardly walk : across the room , so great was the pain that it caused her. She has used two bottles of the Wine and some Tliedford's Black-Draught tea. Now she is doing I'61 ' housework , and has gained fifteen pounds in weight in three months. CHARLES I'RUEMAN. It is torture for a woman to work all day when she is suffering from " female diseases " , But thousands of women in stores , factories and homes , do that every day. Sometimes they delay treatment because th y won't sub mit to a physician's "private examination" or ' 'local treat ment" , Others can't afford to pay exhorbitant fees. But nearly every woman can have such good health that her work will not cause suffering , And that can be brought about by taking Wine of Cardui at home. This great remedy cures all " female diseases ' ' and gives tone and strength to a woman's whole system. It puts her in condition to stand the strain to which her work subjects her , At the first indication of any female trouble Wine of Cardui should be secured. $1.00 at Drug Stores ,