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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (June 20, 1897)
r THE OMAHA DAILY HI5I2t M'XV ! , , irxi3 20. 1807. 1 1 s feSW feSWIN IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. | 1m. . - WATHHIXO PMC'i : Cl Ohnriulnir I'nnrlcn for Slilrtnlnt nnd inllor Hut \VrntliiT. NEW YORK , June 17. It Is really time to talk of ginghams , though two weeks ago women with the ben stocked wardrobes were yearning after the contents of their safely stored winter trunks , laid away to sleep their long Bleep In camphor mid news papers. But at laxt wash goods , fihlrt waist and sailor hat weather has arrived , and the importers , who track fatdilunahlc women to Ihelr moHt necret fastnesses , are setting off for the watering places to display exquisite novelties In French cotton gowns , along , /vllh special inakcuj * ot their own. Now , to the Parisian mind the- term glng- Iioni docs not necessarily suggest a costume that can Buffer u tubbing , Gallic tnsto In- aisle that on a cotton foundation any ma terial may be grafted , and that a gingham It neither truly smart nor equal to long , srditnun wear unless It Is based on silk ; therefore , when a really pretty French cotton U purchased a gown suitable for u. o on the most stately occasions Is the result , It can be worn to balls , luncheons , lawn parties , country weddings , when coaching , driving nnd attending church , and at Mi'1 end of the season It will probably require cleaning , and not u visit to the laundress. In consequence of this notion the 1'arUIan drrnnnmkcr can get up some very elegant little toilets. She gives them nil thin taffeta underskirts and does not hesitate to trim them with lace , velvet , the most eccentrically pretty silk gimps and spangles of llMe nook decorations. Many are shown with accordion-plaited Hklils , and a favorite fancy Is to Imitate , with varying widths of eatln ribbon , Ihc braiding now so popular on nil petticoats But whatever else the scheme of decoration displays. It must not fall to accentuate great brilliancy of color This early In the season was Ihc solemn Irade from 1'arh and the mandate has been urccfcsfully can led out on our side. To old the good cause the manufacturers have tuined out the majority of percales ging hams , lappeta and prints In handsome vivid bacl.grounds of radish led , army and alsa- tlan blue puiples langlng from the deepest Irli to the pilcat violet , Chinese jellow and peacock green , bearing wide and narrow Htrlpcs and checks In white and black , big and little polkn dots or clusters of descents , dart1 * , ribbon figuring , rings and sprays , all In some nharply contrasting tint. On Mich foundations arc heaped the gayest of ribbons , an abundance of embroidery , and , In consequence , something like close re lationship Is maintained with the frivolous Bummer hat. A line dcpirture In the way of cotton novelties ha been made by the changeable gingham , nnd It H to be re corded that very little lace Is seen on the strictly wash dre ; p ! ? . Embroidery In nll- xparvadlnc , the white lawn and brown batiste edging and Inserting taking prccedince , worked In two , thice , or ns nnny ns five different colors. Nnturnlly the greater num ber of colors employed the moro expensive the material , but none the less It Is lovely and desirable. MAKING COTTON DRESSES. Hut to turn to the practical fide of thlngn. which Is the making of thooe suits. Where French examples In the use of silk are fol lowed , the skirts are usually made on a wp- arntcd foundntlon. nnd something near the proportions of a fad has arisen for cutting out the neck of the waist , to show n yoke of constraining color. Hero and there a very pretty ovorsklrt appears. Rullles up to the vvnlHt nnd Vandyke points on the hip ore still In good grace , and a last Intro- ductlon Is th.it of running tiny ruffles up the back widths only from waist to hem. Now an oversklrt Is no Inconvenience when cut after the fashion shown In the sketch of the striped led nnd white gown. This Is ft gingham in the new hard bright color called radish red. The under petticoat Is solidly tinged as the wkln of a freshly plucked radish , and the top drapery , falling In three points , two In front nnd one be hind. Is widely barred with white bands. The sleeves Illustrate a new Interpretation of the mousquetalre , for they are of solid red ubovo the elbow , with striped puffs Stalling over what looks quite llko the wrinkled length of a pair of radish colored gloves. A pouched bodice of the striped goods 1st gathered about a yoke of the solid color and thin constitutes almost an Ideal wash suit. 'It Is adapted almost exclusively to the slenderly built woman , but there Is not a whalebone used , the skirts need no sham , and on these sensible lines the strictly American gingham Is made up. Equally modish and suitable Is the dark blue nnd white checked cotton. Very truth fully ppeaklng this Is n skirt and coat , to bn worn with a shirt waist. The triple collars , belt nnd pocket flaps on the sklit are made ot white linen and big pcail buttons set off what is an Irreproachable suggestion for any out-of-doors function or for water parties. A TIMELY MODEL. What a French woman means by a ging ham Is displayed In the cut of the rufllod costume. Its underskirt Is Chinese yollov/ taffeta and on to thlo are set graduated rullles of alsatlan blue cotton , brightened with polka dots of Chinese yellow silk Chain stitching of yellow silk Is what holdi : the polka dots In place and bias bands ot silk. In the same color , form the glrdlo and collar. Again a yoke Is to the foic. n yoke of yellow silk embroidery , and this pretty suit , worn with a hat ot blue straw , trim med with yellow rosco and blue plumes , testifies to the French woman's assertion that a gingham , when lightly treated , Is { worth ns much ns a silk gown any day. Of course It Is worth a deal moro to the feminine entity In khort skirts , whoso nat ural summer plumage Is a gingham , though It must not be so gar.'sh ' an effect of color us she could wear were her years and her eklrtH both longer. AH It Is , however , In a olid , resy red cotton , she shows n yoke llko her elder sister , made nf clternate puffs of white lawn and bands of white embroid ery. Her basque rulllca arc of white lawn needlework , and tour bands of In serting on her skirt match the embroid ery of her yoke , This eminently Is n wash drrcs , adaptable to a girl ot 8 or 11 yeiuv , wbo wears her curls after the French fash ion , with noeuds of taffeta ribbon , to match lie > r gown , catching two curls together , Jiut et.ovo either ear MIDSUMMER HATS. With the changeable cotton costume , which Is perfectly washable , even If It Is In two colors , Is worn both the sailor and trlmmcj iecfeater crown hat , In changeable etraw. This Is among the tempting adds and end ) of novelties that the shopkeepers alwajn bring out at the tall end of the season , juel to prove , as It were , that there are btlll Vcmall trumps of fash Ion to be played even at the fag end of things. It 1s undeniable that these gay ttraus make excellent out ing hats and the most attractive sailor , so Car as seen , has a brim of flat straw and a crown that Is fcllghtly puffy , of soft basket traw. Around the crown la folded a broad tilas band of changeable red and green silk , with tno big Jeweled buttons holding down large rosette of silk on the left side. An other refreshing way of treating a eallor , and white one at that , is to draw about the crown narrow velvet ribbon bands , black , brown , blue , what you prefer , and either three or flvo bands , Mulshing oft every one with a neat , .small bow. To go with the bailer hats , gingham drecers , In fact with evcr > thing that smack * of frebh air , Ihe golf capo Is still the mode. Hut do not believe you must necessarily have new cape , provided HIP one bought four years ago Is still In fine repair. Simply sheer off about a hall a , foot of the cape's skirt , o that the garment hangs Just a few Inches below the hips , and possibly the hood will need a trifle cut from It , The very new capes are full , eliort and lined with plaid ellk , beside having a facing or rev ITS of silk turned back , for six or eight. Inches , all the way down the front. Heavily carved , smokexl or white pearl buttons , three' on a side , hold ydown this outside facing , and women who can ' afford U fasten their cax-a | only at the throat With silver and ctlrugoru ckuij * . Thteo ux.- cecdlngly vivid wrap ? go by the name of cawdor , ratifying to the golf-loving heart. REVIVAL OF FRINGES. This to no rumor any longer , but n fact established that fringes are again among the well pntronlred trimmings. Countless elegant evening and reception toilets , eatly In i the spring , were made up with bits of pearl , and false Jewel fringe appearing here and there , and now costume * are seen with skirts I tinged with panels , or clear up to the waist line all around with silk , Jet and bead fringe. So far this decoration has only when appear ing In hllk measured on Inch at most In width , but as with all reincarnations of old fashions the fringes have come back to us vcr > greatly Improved. On toilets of great cost nnd beauty It Is employed In all widths and made of bits of rurved Ivory. Japancs * filnge they call that , while another sort , manufactured from the delicately tinted linings of certain shells , goes under the name of wampum , and If beautiful lisyond description , the tiny cylinder slnped ficrtlons bdng strung on gold and silver thread ! ; . The more commonplace materials ii "l In fringe making. such as Jet. pearls , colorel bends , etc , arc EO strung to a silk edging that every long or short thread of beads goes to aid in forming figures , as , for example , hanging shields , crescents , hearts , aironheads and moreover the tinted peail trimming Is no contrived that these fringe llgurcs display lovely patterns nnd shading In well-arranged color. FOR EVENING WEAR. A bow and a rose , the lose a natural one , Is what every well-combed head should show for the evening , For this the hair should be built high nnd rather far forward , nnd all women who walk the stialglu and nairow path that betokens cateful dies Irg arc s lids- Ing the liolc'tice ' of cultivating Victorian curls on their forehead. ? . The Victorian curl Is a rlngM about an Inch or an Inch and a quaiter long , nnd four or five ought to bob dalntly on thelbrow. It Is no secret at all tint the hair diccsers arc veiling wreaths of ringlets made up especially for any wo.nan who wishes of her o\vn hair , and these bob cui l.i can be to adjusted about the face as to appear as natural as possible. With evening dress , > oung women who jet rnjoy the jc'Uth ' nnd Innocent air of deb- utanteshlp , atsume , In place of tiaras built of flashing stones , the loveliest head wreaths of flowers. A head wreath In slnpo exactly sltnulites a tiara , and U made of very small blofsonirs and green leaves. Trailing arbu ? tus , wood anemone , forget-me-not , etc. , nre woven Into wreaths , and are undoubtedly wonderfully becoming. Another exceedingly nice choice In hair dressing Is that of pinning the- locks down everywhere with silver prongs , topped with some minute colored de vice. Nothing since the brownie pin ha.i had such a place In the > oung girl'n heart ns the Inlrpln decorated with ml : rocoplc peacocks , In all their colors , dragon tiles , green enameled shamrocks and luck clovers , and a thousand other wee figures that convert the new hairpin box Into a veritable casket ot Infinitesimal curiosities. Just as many of these gilt or silvered prongs as are necessiry nre used tp bCttlo the collTtiie nicely , and In consequence every debutante's head Is a matter of awe and In terest to masculine or unenlightened bache lors. MARY SAUNDEHS. A MH'Alll.n AVOVIVN IA\VYiit. Minn HlrtTi'l , CliIontso'M X MV ANNlNtnnt Corporation Counxrl. Assistant Corporation Counsel Cora H. Hlrt7el of Chicago walks , talks and acts lIKe n woman who likes to be like a man. She doesn't care a fig for Delsarte. Society novels are philosophical flimsies. She loves Thackeray and Blnckstone , writes without putting the point of her pencil In her mouth and whittles with the edge of the knife blade toward her body. She plants her foot down hard when she steps , Is an expert In bringing legal lights to a compromise settle ment , wears shirt waists nnd collars and the biggest law 111 ins In town trust her with the preparation of their briefs. She Is and doeo all this , relates the Chicago Times- Herald , but she dodges when a man asks her how old she Is proof that she Is a woman despite the fact that her name is on the offlco door as a lawyer. Miss Hlrtzcl has lived in Chicago a good part of her life. She Is what she Is be cause she has earned the distinction. It has never been her fortune to walk a path of roses. It probably would have made no difference had sl.e been taught in her girl hood that the proper thing for a girl to do Is to sit still , look pretty and get married. Ambition Is ambition rich or poor. She had ambition. She says It was fortunate. In HLUC AND WHITE. gratifying her zeal she was laying tip treas ures against the day 'vhcn ambition and necessity to cnrn a livelihood might bo ono and the romc thing. This was before w onion denied that their single place In life was beside the cradle. Miss lllrtzel reasoned with herself She concluded that had she been born n man rather than a woman she would have been u lawjer. She reasoned more. There was no reason why the woman who wanted lo bo ft lawyer should bo de barred fiom being a lawyer simply because men thought she ought not to be ono. She couldn't see any reason why men should pick out the future for women anyhow , and bho gradually allowed It to become known that die was going to be a lawyer and posblbly ell on the bench , It made a good many of the > oung men she knew laugh , but she has not heard of any of the scoffers becoming assistant corporation counsels. Mlaj Hlrtzel had walked into a room where- six men were waiting for her debut. She took a chair at the end of a long table , put her hands on life arms of the chair and proceeded lo tell the place of modern uoiiiin a she BOW It. She made no rcuerva. tlons , Women have come Into the world to 6tay. It is a necessity that many of them make their own way. She could BOO no difference In the mental capacity of the bexej could not Imagine that It was originally Intended for men to think and act. for women to fold their arms and dream. She did not ride a blc > cle , but ehe was witli any woman who wanted to ilJo a blcjcle. Women ought to vote. It was a duty for them to organize. Women's clubs are good things * . She is not a member of any women's club , but uhe would be did not her business take every uluute of her time utvo a unjall tllowauco ' 1 ' l > 1V C/l\ > /lV 1\ for rccrcntlon. She urged that women should be 1 anything they wanted to be , nnd that It was wrong for men to put obstacles In the , way of their entrance to all department * of human activity for which they nre physically fitted. It pcemcd that ahc was the mcst manly of all new women. The delusion or tnisplclon went to smithereens In a minute. She apologized because the wind had rufllcd her hair. Judge Gray , up in Ohko h , was her flrjt tutor. She read In his olllce. She went to that ton n with her parents from Ottawa and she Is glad that ihc was born In Illi nois rather than In Wisconsin. Her parents came fiom Germany. They don't llko to have women do much In the professions In Germany. Miss HIrtrel did not Inherit any prejudice along this line , nnd It did not p.ir- tlcul.it ly matter that ho did not get much encouragement among the men and women she Knew. She learned to think tot herself early in life and she Is still doing It. The moro the dug Into the booko of the Judge's n litile well rolled tow mannn iHi n K Jil fprinkllng of Hand Hood drainage in rs en tlal ami the best way to Insure It la by putting about one-fourth KO < " ! [ Mean charcoal or crock * In the bottom of each - > ot "Afler potting I place the bulbs In n temperature of from 65 to ifJ iltgrecs , and they eoon begin to grow. Care should be taken not to water them too f/cely until they ro fairly started. A Irslit-spray with a syringe Jn the morning 1st lout | all that Is ncccfisary until the pots arc well filled with roots. Then 1 begin to'Rlv * liquid cow' manure twice a week , Just enough fertilizer to color the water to begin with. This should be Increased In BtrenRthrland applied rftcncr as the growth nd\ancB , Ao eoon as the flowers begin to open It ! s not necrp- c"ary to apply so much waternt'thls stage 1 begin to dry off , and by tlit time they nro In full bloom I don't give ( hem any. "U is not at all difficult to raise orchids from seeds. The plants are as easily fer tilized as most others , the capsules ripen as quickly as those of roses or carnations nnd many of them can be lingered from the seed In as little time , and In nine cases out of ten give better results. I bn\o nl- ways found that seed do best In n pot con taining a plant of the same genus. In selecting n location to oow seed take n pot where- the compost Is pressed In firmly , so Hint repented watering will not wash the seed In too deeply to reach the surface after germination. U Is best to hn\o the sphagnum of n short ntubby growth so ns not to smother the seed. After the seedlings nppiar they must bo guarded against Insect MK'inlcs until they reach the second or thlid Ipflf Then they should be pricked oif Hngly PINK GINGHAM. Is excellently ehown in the current coinage , In which It Is half-concealed by a veil , wlilch was worn In the earlier years of the reign , whfii this form of circlet was In ordinary use ; and , Indeed , there would eem to be some doubt au to whether Ihu particular form of coronet depicted on the piescnt coin la&ut-i has ever been adopted by the queen In actual UIB at all , It was this diadem , and another of E like shape that preceded It , which were used when her majesty opened or prorogued Parliament , and also on such occasions as the marriage of the prlnccca ro > al. On every occasion on which the queen vis ited the House of Lords the state crown was taken out of the regalia room In the Tower of London and waa bome before her on a quth- ion. Except for this nurpone the croun has only left the tower on two occasions during the reign once for repair ( some part of the tettlutj having becomu loosened ) and once. In order to modify thp ermine. The cron has tuvcr been actually worn by the queen at any function whatever lnce the act of coronation sixty yearn ago , and there U noth ing In the episodes of the forthcoming com memoration that will require Its removal from the lower. The slate crown wa made for the queen byMessrs. . Humlell St. llrldpe ( the predecessors of Oarrards , the pre cnt holders of the appointment ) , and Us construc tion is familiar history U may , however , to Interesting at this Juncture ( o say that the estimated value at that time of 1m stones- comprising 2.7S3 diamonds , 277 pearls , sixteen sapphires , eleven emeralds and four rubles- was 112,760 , apart from the prlcel s ruby which belonged to Kdward Ihe Illaek 1'rlnce and HIP large cipphlro purchased by Ooorge IV In the opinion of competent experts the stones still have an Intrinsic worth of a like sum. e\en If no account be taken of the value that would attach to their llHmttlout associations. sitn iui.n THI : TIIAIV. Slip Wan n U'oimui mill , nf Coitrxr , linil HIT \Viiy. "llcforo 1 came to this part of the country I was nn .engineer on n railroad down outh , " n.ild n railway man to the St. Joe Gazette. "Wo used , to make a long run and we wore pretty slow about It. While on that line 1 'had ' some \ery odd experiences. I tcmember one day when we reached the Junction sta tion a woman came up to me and asked mete to hold the train for five minutes. She ealil that her daughter wanted to take the train 11 > BIIOWN LINEN. RED AND WHITE GINGHAM. library the more she became wedde'd to her resolution. The more she read the more she saw there was to bo read , but work , and not play , was to bo her lot. The preparatory course brought her to Chicago ten years ago. She entered the Chicago Law college. U was not pleasure at times for her to sit , the sln- glo woman In a class of seventy-five men who flnlbhed In 1890. She felt conspicuous. The men looked upon her as out of _ place. There were other days when Miss "nmma Bowerman was with her , and side by side the two sat as the men smiled , and the smile was a plain sign of pity for womanly folly. Corporation Counsel Thornton , wbo r-ade the appointment. Is anxious to take all the credit for the appointment of Miss Hlrtzel. Ho says nobody recommended the action. iMo did It because It was a wise ajd good thing to do. He did not know anyone In town better suited to bs an assistant In the law department than she Is. Ho needed ex actly the Information of which Miss Hlrtzcl has made a specialty. It Is the first time In the history of womanhood that sue i a dis tinction has fallen to the lot of tlu better half of the human race. LAST SUMMUK'S S'l'HAW HAT. UMcfnl Tip ' < " ' " " ' 1-L'oiiiiiiileuI YOIII AVoin ii. Labt season's straw hats , If not broken , may be made to look as good as new if the economical young woman Is Inclined to make the effort. A white straw' should be well brushed and the stiffening vvlro removed. Then wash It over with a good suds made of clear water and a white soap , sciub with a nail brush. Then It should be rinsed by dipping up and down In clear water. If any stains still remain a little lemon juice should bo rubbed on the spot with the brush. If moro convenient a diluted solution of oxalic acid may be need Instead of the lemon , but the greatest care ought to be taken of this acid If there chance to bo any chil dren In the house. After the hat. has been dried In the open air It should be sponged over with the white of an egg well beaten up ; this will make the straw taut , and ali > o complete the cleansing process. A large hat should by dried on a flat surface and some- tlmra have weights ; books are good to press them In shape. To bleach straw there are several very good methods wlilch can bo done at homo with slight expense and trouble. The hat , after being scrubbed aa directed above , should be suspended in a close barrel or bgi with burning sulphur. Cover the barrel and allow to remain Inside from one to two hours , Another way Is to cover the hat over with a paste made of sulphur and sweet milk. It should be dried In the hot sun and rubbed off with a Atlff brubh. If the hat Is greatly stained lemon Jnlco should be used in place of milk. In the same way a panto of comment and vinegar may be used with great satisfaction. When the hat Is only slightly soiled , and where there Is Ices time to be spent on clean ing , a thorough rubbing with a nail brush and dry cornmeal will prove very efficacious , and only require a few moments' work. UAISIM : oiic.'iins ritoM snuns. Information from u .SiicocNNfnl flnnicr of tin * 1'lnal. The m > Etery which for a long time ehtoudcd the cultivation of orchids will be dissipated by the following Information given by ono of the most successful growers ot this beautiful plant In New York City. "Tho mcst easily grown orchids , that IB for the amateur , " eald this gentleman , "aro the cyprlpedlums , laellas , calanthes and dendroblums. The conditions of our northern latitude make some culture changes neces sary , and we should try to have the plants , after the flowering season , rest as lout ; aa possible , .which can only bo done by keeping them very cool , dry and airy. "After resting the toulha should be set on sand In eeel pans or cutting boxca. In a temperature of from CO to Co degrees , the sand being kept moist EO as to encourage new growth. After the young roots are fairly started there should bo no delay 4n getting the 'bulbs potted , as there Is always great danger of breaking them. For potting material I use good fibrous < urf , shaking out an much as po&slbU thu Jiuc toll , also nnd put into tvvo-Iiicb pots or baskets , as the genus may demand. "The potting material ought to consist of finely chopped iphagnum moss or half and half moss and peat. Fill the pot one-fourth full of crock or charpoal and the bolai-co with compost , press In firmly MJ so to hold the tiny plant and also to prev3iit the ma terial from soaking up too much watc-i. This done place It in a lightly shad-id part of the house containing plains of the bine genus. Don't try to hurry It nnd plv < - the same kind of treatment as older plants , allowing water whenever the compost ap pears dry. " VICTORIA'S THIini : CHOWXS. HUH Only IVorn ( he Stntc OI-OM 11 of nrvnt Ilrltnln Once in Her Life. The only crown that Is likely to be used during the stately functions of the com memoration , says the St. James Gazette , Is the tlnra , which is familiar to this genera tion In sketches of the queen when holding a drnwlng room. This was manufactured by the state Jewelers in 18C2 at the personal cost of her majesty , and. In general terms , may bo said to weight eighty troy ounces It Is a light shell of gold , entirely Incrustcd wiih diamonds , f > 23 rcsc diamonds , mnklng an aggregate of 3,130 stones. It is retained in the charge ot the sovereign , of whom It Is a personal possession , and to all Intcntu and purposes never requires any attention. It WJB specifically devised for use in conjunc tion with a veil , and. apart from the drawIng - Ing rooms , has scarcely h cn used at all. Thh crown was preceded In point of time by a diadem or circlet ot gold , choicely be- Jereled , which was made for the queen In ISfiS. The stones used on this occasion , which are wholly diamonds , were In the main ciown Jewels , and the diadem will therefore remain the property of the crown , although the cost of mounting them for the use of her majesty was borne out of the privy purse. This dia dem Is technically known as a circlet , sur- mountfd by the cress patec ( whereof the Maltese cioss Is a decoration variant ) and the lleur-dc-lls. The general effect of this ciown to the city. I told her that It was Impossible for mo to hold the train for her. " 'I don't > ee why , ' she expostulated. "I think yon might do a little thing llko that. ' "I trleJ to explain to her that trains ran on schedule time , and , llko time and tide , wait for no man , or woman either , for that matter. Hut she wouldn't have It , and finally. Just as wo were about to start , she shouted Indignantly : , " 'Well , I'll Just see about that. ' "I laughed , but scon ceased to laugh , for what did that old woman do but get right on the track about three feet In front of the engine. She sat herself thciv , firmly grasp ing the hold of the rails with both hands. The conductor slgnak-d for mo to go ahead , as our stop was over. But I couldn't do It ao long as ehe remained on the track , for I would kill her certainly. I called to the conductor , and he , impatient at the delay , came up. I explained the situation to him. Ho was as mad as I was , and , going up to tlin woman he told her to get off the track. " 'I Just won't , ' she replied , 'until my daughter gets on board that train. ' "Ho pleaded with her for some time , and finally declared that he would have to Ubc force. " 'Just yon dare ! ' she cried. I'll sue you for damages If you do ! ' "This opened a new complication , and wo reasoned with ourselves whether we had bet ter remove her by force. Just aa wo hail determined upon a course of policy her daughter came up , and seeing the old \\oman on the track , kissed her good-by and got on the train , while har mother called to her : " 'Go aluad , Mary Ann , You have plenty of time , though , for I will elt on the track un til you get on board. ' "And then , when Mary Ann was safely on board , and wo were about ready to run over the old woman If necetfoary , bho calmly ami sloxvly got up and waved me a good-by , callIng - Ing , as we pulled out of tbo station : " 'I hope I've tcached jou fellers a grain of perlltoncbs. ' ' A Y.t.MvUi : < ilKI/.S I LUCIC. KoNiMifil Her Kliincu from nieu U lillc James C. Crosby of 1'eabody , Maes. , am ! Mica Katie Hlrney , his fiancee , were held up and robbed on the night of the Gth , while dilving In Baker street , near the common , In Salem , Mass. U was one of the most audacious assaults nnd robbcilcs ever com milled , the victim being compelled to hand over his watch to the robbers , and his money and other valuables would have been taken alt > o but for the presence c ! mind of the woman , who whipped up the horses , enabling them to escape. The two had been to nee a circus performance. The team vvaa halted In a dark place by two highwaymen , one of whom grabbed the horcea by the brldlij while the other threatened iMr. Crosby with a elub. Til Id fellow swung the club most menacingly. Ho wanted money , he told , and II lie did not get It the man and woman would be killed. The attack was so sudden that Ciosby had not fully recovered Ills tcnees. Ho was unarmed and was afraid tlia men would carry out their threat. He placed his hand In his pocket and pulled out his watch , which the robbers eagcily took. It was at this point that Miss Hlrney proved her bravery , She had watched the proceedIngs - Ings and was apparently overcome by fright , but while the robber was off his guard for an Instant , when ho took the iwatch , nhe grabbed the whip and struck the horses a stinging blow. The animals swerved to the right and became telrased from the hold of the other man , and da&hed an ay up the street. The robber wbo had taken the watch was knocked down and run over. FlINlllllll JN The now black cloth Jackets are trimmed with white lace applique , Grog grain silk Is revived again for dressy gowns worn by matronly women. White kid , embroidered with colored beads , la lined for rovcre , cuffu and bclta on cloth gowns , Fancy Oxford ties , with a patent leather vamp and finish , are made of moire vetour In various tints of green , blue , dull red and brown. "Laulseno , " a kind of popllnette , Is among the new and popular materials , and It comes In very tmiall checkb of various colors. to match or harmonize with tU color of your co lutne ro one of fashUm' * new whims , and dainty pockctbooks are nude nt mauve , green , blue and brown leather Beautiful "drc s" lolletn of black silk grcnadlnn nro made up with bodice trlm nlngs of white or mauve satin overlaid with very elegant designs In Venetian lace. Ono ot the many Jubilee sovereigns Is nn umbrella with a Dresden handle , decornlrd with gold and a potrnll ot Queen Victoria In icr coronation robes , copied Irom a picture at Windsor castle. Tiny ca shells nre the latest decoration on some of the new galons and embroideries with beads , silver nnd gold threads and liar- ow ribbons so much cmplo > td In the season's [ rlmmlnys "Tyiolean hats ot the brigand shape" are consldcicd by English women to be the best and moat becoming for e > cling , and the brims and crowns are often of constnutlng color. Canvas hats , lee , are olien very much favored. A pretty chemisette vest for foulard and t > nrcg& gowns Is made ot white moussellno do sole , striped arioss with little flills of nar row cream luce headed by one row of nar- low black velvet ribbon. Foretjn'ng ' dnss > oung girls wear wreaths ot flowers In their hair which Is arranged blub on the he d. Forget-me-nots arc very pretty nnd n narrow wreath of green leaves is often very becoming Skirts flounced from the hem to the waist with rullles thapcd so that they requlto no gathers nnd edged with nariovv cream lace nro decidedly the latest fancj nnd arc especially effective1 In glace silk. A stylish bicycling hat Ins n sailor brim of l'anama , stinw and u Tain O'Shantcr crown of nccordloii-plaltcd ennvns , and Is trimmed with a band ot velvet , n losettf of turquoise hluo satin and two black quills. Red.which Is such a popular color this season , nccde. great care In making a selec tion , as It Is either very becoming or very vulgar as It harmonbes or Is a discordant element. In Its effect on the woman who wears It. Double nnd triple flounced skirls of gmd dated depth arc noted among new summer drcfses for dny wear. They nre made sever- nlly of foulard silk , colored linen , chambray. plain colored French 7cphyr goods , batiste and dimity. Each flounce Is finished with n hem nnd n cluster of narrow tucks. Very pretty beach and mountain suits arc made ot daik blue ctamlne with i evens and a poitlon of the lound wnlstand sleeves formed of embroidered gras-s linen In openwork de blgns Thrj fancy for cciu , tail and flax- colored linen continues agiln tliU jear , and almcst every day some novelty of thla de- bcHptlon appears. A very new , wiry stuff , not unlike etnmlne In weave , only much stlffcr , comes In all the bright shades and Is much Ubcd nu faclugs or for a puff eel Into the upp r edge of the crowns of the hat. Brown with giecn puff of this let In , Is very swagger. By the way , the hats almost without exception nro faced. Very attractive nnd dainty nre the exqui sitely sheer Swlt-s muslin dresses made up over crlbp , lustious , whlto tnffeta silk. A lovely model Is made with Vaml > ke trim mings formed of Valenciennes Insertion and lace. Very deep points to match are In serted In the scami > on the front and side breadths of the gored skirt. A , wise authority awo-ls that a revolution in millinery is going on ; that the large hat li , not among the latest novelties , and that thb proper thing is the mcdluai stupe , round and flat , trimmed round Ihc crown , with no nsseitlvo osprey , or aigrette of rlbbono , flowers or lace at the side. When fea.ln rs nro used they arc arranged to droop on the hair ut the side. The new bilk petticoats of brocade ni d light bhot slIKs are from three to three and a half jards around , made with ono deep llniince from the knee , trimmed with a lace edgt. ' , and rowb of Insertion between clutters of tucks. A wide flounce with a narrow rullle on the edge , falling over a double ruche on the skirt , Is n favorite mode of trimming , as It assuica the full effect at the bottom. Nearly all blouse bodices are made to pouch over the waist-band or girdle , whether this girdle or band be carried almost to the arm-pits or be merely the nariovv eat of belts. This style makes the Mendeiest figure , hqwevcr long wai&tcd , look clumsy , but the droop of the material In Uio Imme- dlato front alone gives the effect of a point , and adds length to a short wnlst. To uni- row figures , the full double frill carried down the front , narrowing as it nears the waist , or , as some frills do , terminating mid way , la exceedingly becoming. The modified sleeve grows prettier nnd more fascinating In ( style as It nppears formed ot all the sheer and dainty summer textiles and guriiltureo. Never were models more of "happy-medium" contour , or more appropriately trimmed than now. The new shapes and effccto are leglun. The founda tion or basis of most of the popular Btyle Is a closely fitted shape clicking the arm like a long glove , either flat and very close If the arm Is plump , or wrinkled Its entire length If over-slender. The best models are silk lined , and hav-j an under-arm piece that l , the sleeve is made with two teams. The afternoon ccntumrn of ecru linen , TOCO DOTS. gross cloth , or tan-colored Holland are dlf- tlnctly different ( rom 'ho popular morning suits of duck and linen twill , with open- fronted Jacket chlrt waist , as they are made up In much more ornate ttyle , though they are of blmple cut , a/5 all-day gowns tliould be. They consist of a box-pleited , belted round walnt , cl 33 sleeves , with tops puffed and trimmed with Insertion , and the kilted Mrt hai Insertions of linen lace above the drop hem. On very slender figures the \\al t Is crofscd with llieton bands of the inrei- lion , with a band encircling the 6houldera In yoke-etmpe. The glovev , hat , parasol , nnd hhoea are of white or eciu , matching thu tint of the linen laco. KfllllllllKlttN ! , Mrs , Janus T. Fields of Boston has been Invited by relatives of the late Harriet needier Stowo to write that distinguished lady'a biography. Dr. Llllas Hamilton and Mies Edith Sing have Just been appointed head workers In a woman's social settlement In Liverpool , Both women have had great experience. The czarina of Russia has Juet paid her sub scription of 1,000,000 roubles for the building of residential quarters for women attending St. Petersburg Medical Institute. MU > 3 Lottie Farnsworth Is a professional blcyclo racer , and is becoming noted for the masculine qualities she exhibits In her riding , in addition to the feminine one of endur ance. 'Mary ' It , Uabsou , daughter ot IIou , certain inil for A1L KINHS OF COt'OHS Nothing In- JUilous nbnil It Mim.Nins cHmdllon , n PCJV- nrte e-uie for each dl cii e , " for sate nt all dingiriMM. Mostly ? 5o Mnnv oil's ( , uldc to Health nui : If In doubt vvilto direct to I'ROF Mt'NYON , 1W3 Arch Street , riillndeliihla , 1'n. , for free medical ndvlce. Austin Dobson. Is one of tlio most active , workers In the university settlement In Bom bay , luilln. She does a great deal of good nini ) 11R the raisecs , ' Mine. Audlffred ban given to Ilio French Academy of Medicine about 134,000 , of which ( lie Interest nearly 1,000-will be awarded , , without leg.ird to nationality , for Ilio dU < covcry of a euro for tuberculosis. Miss Loul o Mutiny , who has been op- poltiteil public vacelimtor for Sjracuse , N. Y. . Ins Ju t fnlerod upon her duties with' huilnctflllke tact. fche Is the first \\oinan who has ever filled such an nltlce. She U a. graduate of the medical colleRP nt Sjracime , N. Y. Mrs. J. II l-rriich of llclolt , WIs , has bo- ' ( | uc.itlied a law sum of money to llclolt col lege on tondlilon that vl\l rctlon shall not * be piaetle d In niiy drpnrtnunt It the rule la trnnsgressul the money \\lll levett to the AIIHM-IP in Humane Foclotj To tlic latter Mrs. French ronw time ngo left JU'.OOO. ' Miss Whittled Warren , daughter of the president of Hoslon university tins boon appointed teacher of l.atln nt Vnfkar col lege. It will be remembered that Miss War - ron won the Latin fellowship from llrju- Mnwr college In 1S93 , and Is now In Europe cnjojlng the advantages of that classical fellowship. Mrs , . I.cavltt'slolet farm nt Meadow- brook pa > s her handsoino dividends. Begin ning with one * Binnll glass covered pit , nha now IIHH a dozen Inrge greenhouses nnd la not nblo to nil nil hci4 orders , even with these. The \lolcls nre exquisite In slip , uolor ami fragintii < the single oueo being aa laigo s small pnnslcs. North Carolina ban n tobacco fnrmer who Is Mlas Sue M. Comer , nery pretty young woman , who lives lienr Madison. She does nil the work of the fnrm herself nnd re cently bioiiKht her crop of tobnecu to Win ston. U wns sold and bioueht the > oung woman n good , round pi Ice She raised the crop heibclf , came to market with It and looked after the i-alca Mrs. 1) lllller , at one time n resident of New York , when her husband died linil him enclosed In n solid mahogany casket , mounted with gold nnd lined with corded silk which wan said to have cost $40 u yard. The hinges wcie of gold ami n solid knob of gold weighed six pounds. Mm. lllller had a similar casket made for heiself. Her shroud cost $20,000. Miss Han let Dnyd , the noble young womi'.n who \olunlceied her t-eivlccs as a nnrbo nt the beginning of the ( Jreck war , happened to bo In Athens , as she vvno attending the Ameilcnn Archaeological school. Shu and a Cictnn woman have hart entire charge of sixty patients at n hospital nt IJolo. As some hn\o convalesced others have tnlicn their places. She graduated from Smith college In 1S92. Mlbs Maud Earl Is Just now receiving 'a ' great deal of prulso for bur flue portraits of dogs which are on exhibition In London. Many perrons state that MlbB Karl's paint ing of dogs will become us renowned tik llofca llonheiir's horses. The collection in cludes a portrait of Queen Victoria's famous collie , "Snowball , " which wns presented to her nt the time of her Jubilee. There ur > several pictures of the handsoino djogs of thb prince nnd princess ofValia Among Mile. Calve's most cherished pos sessions Is n small hory crucifix , which Is said to have come from Jerusalem In tfiij first place. This olio has alwajs had with her dining the bcvere Illness from which she has Mirrored during recent years and she nttributcs to It her Maturation to health1. So great Is Mile. Cal\o's confidence In the emblem that when she heard of the Illness' of Mine , Raines she drove at once to the nttcr'o hotel and left the little crucifix with ncr as a help and comfort during her in- ValldlMU. THI : oi.n TinnHs. Dr. James Martlnean Is the dean of au thors for the Victorian Jubilee. He IB 92. and published his first book In 1S37. Captain Francis Martin of Detroit , who1 has Just celebrated his 87th birthday , was1 present at the 1'arls funeral of Napoleon the Great. Mrs. Clara Fisher Macder , the once fa mous actress , now SC years old , has published her mcinoire. She went on the stage when 0 years old and followed the profession con tinuously for seventy-two years. Dr. James Martlneau , who has Just cele brated his 92d birthday , Is on of the few living authors whoso literary activity datca from the beginning of the Victorian reign. Dr. Martlneau published his first book , "ThB Rationale of Religious Inquiry , " In 1837. Richard W. Thompson of Terre Haute , ( ml. , ex-secretary of the navy , celebrated the 88th anniversary of his birth last Wednesday. A few evenings ago , before the Terre Haute Literary club , he delivered a. lecture on the war between Greece and Tur key , which wns said to ba a fine effort. 1 | Mrs. Elizabeth iA. Church of Bristol , It ! [ . . celebrated her 84th birthday laot week. Her husband. Captain Nathaniel Church , who died about ten jears ago , was an offlctf In the Bristol train of artillery during tljp Dorr war. In 1M2. He was a descendant of Captain Benjamin Church of colonial King i'hlllp war fame , n Mr . Eliza D Stewart , who organized th first woman's temperance union In the west ; celebrated her 81st blrthJay nt Springfield ) ' O. , recently. Mrs. Stewart oriaul/cil the flrfit union nt Osborn , 0. , with 100 mem bers , In 1873. Since then , up to iccent years- , ' she has employed her enilro time In acllvfr work. She took the Woman's Chrlstlai Temperance union Into Virginia in 1878 and Introduced the bluc-rlbhou pladgo work among the colored puoplu there. wnn.v DAY is mm : . i i , Written for The lice. When dny Is done , how cnlm the rest , ' ' Ilnvv loved In truth the ovcntlmc ; " ' How gently fulls the IlKhteBt quest. 11 How soft tliii dlKtunt mellowed chlrne , ' An nnsel-hnnd wrlteH , "Pence Is won.'J On western Bkkn , when dny Is done. And blest me they of drcninlesi sleep , ' ' Whcic every Hiinbeiini BtenlH nstruy , pl ' In Hllent graves HO deep so deeli IT They nwe the birds that wing that way/ And yet It wems each burled one , , , Must JiMir hi * tnoinner'M orison. , / Hut norrow Inyn upon her HPH , ' * A linger silencing our pain ; ' ' And from our cnre.s the vision slips HIP wt > recall our gilef agiiln , i Tor Ood'fl own benediction lle-i When day IB done , oncary eycH. Tim cricket trebles In the deep , ' ' lll reedy notcn pleliclanled ; , Tlu- bat 11 moo < ly vigil keep" , In hnunlH the lire nt noon had prized. ' > ' < And enrth grows still with heaven near.i When eventldo nnd dreams urn here , i , -CATHJJUINK HUSH , ' . . Omaha , Neb. Women with vitality do not Buffer femald uealuifM and Irregularities. Blood is vital ity. 1111 Anaemic I'lnlt makes rinh red blood. Ita \ composed largely of concentrated beef blood and Is the great blood builder. " A Mirt'ml ( ; < IIIIT. The Scottlech American tells a ntory of a cobbler who was bentcnced by a Scottish magistrate to pay a line of half a crown , or. In default , twenty-four huurx' hard labor. If ho chroo the latter ho would bo taken to the Jail at Perth. "Then I'll go to Perth , " ho snld , "for I have bomo business there. " An olllclal conveyed him to Perth , but when the cobbler reached the Jail ho said he would pay the fine. The governor found ho would have to take It. "And now , " said the cobbler , 'II want my faro home. " The governor de murred , hut discovered ( hero was no alterna tive , the prisoner must be bent at the publlo expellee to the place ho had been brought from , Dr. Austin Flint , late professor In nelle- vuo Hospital Medical college , Fellow of New York Atademy of Medicine , honorary mem her of the State Medical societies of New York , Virginia , llhoile iHland. .MoMathutetti , etct.ays , In speaklni ; of might's dlnenue , or advanced kidney ( lineage , "The minor ef- ftcts are headache , lota of vUlon , Impaired hearing , involuntary muscular twitching , cramps , drounlnceiomltlnK and diarrhoea.1 These are iliut somu of the common uymutouu of thu ! malady , which accountu for Warner'i .Safe Cure curing no many dlaeaiiei ! which ara but symptoms of udvuuctJ kiiluuy dlsgrdera.