r
THE OMAHA DAILY HI5I2t M'XV ! , , irxi3 20. 1807. 1 1
s feSW
feSWIN
IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. | 1m. . -
WATHHIXO PMC'i : Cl
Ohnriulnir I'nnrlcn for Slilrtnlnt nnd
inllor Hut \VrntliiT.
NEW YORK , June 17. It Is really time
to talk of ginghams , though two weeks ago
women with the ben stocked wardrobes
were yearning after the contents of their
safely stored winter trunks , laid away to
sleep their long Bleep In camphor mid news
papers. But at laxt wash goods , fihlrt waist
and sailor hat weather has arrived , and the
importers , who track fatdilunahlc women to
Ihelr moHt necret fastnesses , are setting off
for the watering places to display exquisite
novelties In French cotton gowns , along
, /vllh special inakcuj * ot their own.
Now , to the Parisian mind the- term glng-
Iioni docs not necessarily suggest a costume
that can Buffer u tubbing , Gallic tnsto In-
aisle that on a cotton foundation any ma
terial may be grafted , and that a gingham
It neither truly smart nor equal to long ,
srditnun wear unless It Is based on silk ;
therefore , when a really pretty French cotton
U purchased a gown suitable for u. o on
the most stately occasions Is the result ,
It can be worn to balls , luncheons , lawn
parties , country weddings , when coaching ,
driving nnd attending church , and at Mi'1
end of the season It will probably require
cleaning , and not u visit to the laundress.
In consequence of this notion the 1'arUIan
drrnnnmkcr can get up some very elegant
little toilets. She gives them nil thin
taffeta underskirts and does not hesitate
to trim them with lace , velvet , the most
eccentrically pretty silk gimps and spangles
of llMe nook decorations. Many are shown
with accordion-plaited Hklils , and a favorite
fancy Is to Imitate , with varying widths of
eatln ribbon , Ihc braiding now so popular
on nil petticoats But whatever else the
scheme of decoration displays. It must not
fall to accentuate great brilliancy of color
This early In the season was Ihc solemn
Irade from 1'arh and the mandate has been
urccfcsfully can led out on our side. To old
the good cause the manufacturers have
tuined out the majority of percales ging
hams , lappeta and prints In handsome vivid
bacl.grounds of radish led , army and alsa-
tlan blue puiples langlng from the deepest
Irli to the pilcat violet , Chinese jellow and
peacock green , bearing wide and narrow
Htrlpcs and checks In white and black , big
and little polkn dots or clusters of descents ,
dart1 * , ribbon figuring , rings and sprays , all
In some nharply contrasting tint.
On Mich foundations arc heaped the gayest
of ribbons , an abundance of embroidery , and ,
In consequence , something like close re
lationship Is maintained with the frivolous
Bummer hat. A line dcpirture In the way
of cotton novelties ha been made by the
changeable gingham , nnd It H to be re
corded that very little lace Is seen on the
strictly wash dre ; p ! ? . Embroidery In nll-
xparvadlnc , the white lawn and brown batiste
edging and Inserting taking prccedince ,
worked In two , thice , or ns nnny ns five
different colors. Nnturnlly the greater num
ber of colors employed the moro expensive
the material , but none the less It Is lovely
and desirable.
MAKING COTTON DRESSES.
Hut to turn to the practical fide of thlngn.
which Is the making of thooe suits. Where
French examples In the use of silk are fol
lowed , the skirts are usually made on a wp-
arntcd foundntlon. nnd something near the
proportions of a fad has arisen for cutting
out the neck of the waist , to show n yoke
of constraining color. Hero and there a
very pretty ovorsklrt appears. Rullles up to
the vvnlHt nnd Vandyke points on the hip
ore still In good grace , and a last Intro-
ductlon Is th.it of running tiny ruffles up the
back widths only from waist to hem.
Now an oversklrt Is no Inconvenience when
cut after the fashion shown In the sketch
of the striped led nnd white gown. This Is
ft gingham in the new hard bright color
called radish red. The under petticoat Is
solidly tinged as the wkln of a freshly
plucked radish , and the top drapery , falling
In three points , two In front nnd one be
hind. Is widely barred with white bands.
The sleeves Illustrate a new Interpretation
of the mousquetalre , for they are of solid
red ubovo the elbow , with striped puffs
Stalling over what looks quite llko the
wrinkled length of a pair of radish colored
gloves. A pouched bodice of the striped
goods 1st gathered about a yoke of the solid
color and thin constitutes almost an Ideal
wash suit. 'It Is adapted almost exclusively
to the slenderly built woman , but there Is
not a whalebone used , the skirts need no
sham , and on these sensible lines the
strictly American gingham Is made up.
Equally modish and suitable Is the dark
blue nnd white checked cotton. Very truth
fully ppeaklng this Is n skirt and coat , to
bn worn with a shirt waist. The triple
collars , belt nnd pocket flaps on the sklit
are made ot white linen and big pcail
buttons set off what is an Irreproachable
suggestion for any out-of-doors function or
for water parties.
A TIMELY MODEL.
What a French woman means by a ging
ham Is displayed In the cut of the rufllod
costume. Its underskirt Is Chinese yollov/
taffeta and on to thlo are set graduated
rullles of alsatlan blue cotton , brightened
with polka dots of Chinese yellow silk
Chain stitching of yellow silk Is what holdi :
the polka dots In place and bias bands ot
silk. In the same color , form the glrdlo and
collar. Again a yoke Is to the foic. n yoke
of yellow silk embroidery , and this pretty
suit , worn with a hat ot blue straw , trim
med with yellow rosco and blue plumes ,
testifies to the French woman's assertion
that a gingham , when lightly treated , Is
{ worth ns much ns a silk gown any day.
Of course It Is worth a deal moro to the
feminine entity In khort skirts , whoso nat
ural summer plumage Is a gingham , though
It must not be so gar.'sh ' an effect of color
us she could wear were her years and her
eklrtH both longer. AH It Is , however , In a
olid , resy red cotton , she shows n yoke
llko her elder sister , made nf clternate puffs
of white lawn and bands of white embroid
ery. Her basque rulllca arc of white
lawn needlework , and tour bands of In
serting on her skirt match the embroid
ery of her yoke , This eminently Is n wash
drrcs , adaptable to a girl ot 8 or 11 yeiuv ,
wbo wears her curls after the French fash
ion , with noeuds of taffeta ribbon , to match
lie > r gown , catching two curls together , Jiut
et.ovo either ear
MIDSUMMER HATS.
With the changeable cotton costume , which
Is perfectly washable , even If It Is In two
colors , Is worn both the sailor and trlmmcj
iecfeater crown hat , In changeable etraw.
This Is among the tempting adds and end )
of novelties that the shopkeepers alwajn
bring out at the tall end of the season , juel
to prove , as It were , that there are btlll
Vcmall trumps of fash Ion to be played even
at the fag end of things. It 1s undeniable
that these gay ttraus make excellent out
ing hats and the most attractive sailor , so
Car as seen , has a brim of flat straw and a
crown that Is fcllghtly puffy , of soft basket
traw. Around the crown la folded a broad
tilas band of changeable red and green silk ,
with tno big Jeweled buttons holding down
large rosette of silk on the left side. An
other refreshing way of treating a eallor , and
white one at that , is to draw about the
crown narrow velvet ribbon bands , black ,
brown , blue , what you prefer , and either
three or flvo bands , Mulshing oft every one
with a neat , .small bow.
To go with the bailer hats , gingham
drecers , In fact with evcr > thing that smack *
of frebh air , Ihe golf capo Is still the mode.
Hut do not believe you must necessarily have
new cape , provided HIP one bought four
years ago Is still In fine repair. Simply sheer
off about a hall a , foot of the cape's skirt ,
o that the garment hangs Just a few Inches
below the hips , and possibly the hood will
need a trifle cut from It , The very new
capes are full , eliort and lined with plaid
ellk , beside having a facing or rev ITS of silk
turned back , for six or eight. Inches , all the
way down the front. Heavily carved , smokexl
or white pearl buttons , three' on a side , hold
ydown this outside facing , and women who can
' afford U fasten their cax-a | only at the throat
With silver and ctlrugoru ckuij * . Thteo ux.-
cecdlngly vivid wrap ? go by the name of
cawdor , ratifying to the golf-loving heart.
REVIVAL OF FRINGES.
This to no rumor any longer , but n fact
established that fringes are again among
the well pntronlred trimmings. Countless
elegant evening and reception toilets , eatly In i
the spring , were made up with bits of pearl ,
and false Jewel fringe appearing here and
there , and now costume * are seen with skirts
I tinged with panels , or clear up to the waist
line all around with silk , Jet and bead fringe.
So far this decoration has only when appear
ing In hllk measured on Inch at most In
width , but as with all reincarnations of old
fashions the fringes have come back to us
vcr > greatly Improved.
On toilets of great cost nnd beauty It Is
employed In all widths and made of bits of
rurved Ivory. Japancs * filnge they call that ,
while another sort , manufactured from the
delicately tinted linings of certain shells , goes
under the name of wampum , and If beautiful
lisyond description , the tiny cylinder slnped
ficrtlons bdng strung on gold and silver
thread ! ; . The more commonplace materials
ii "l In fringe making. such as Jet. pearls ,
colorel bends , etc , arc EO strung to a silk
edging that every long or short thread of
beads goes to aid in forming figures , as , for
example , hanging shields , crescents , hearts ,
aironheads and moreover the tinted peail
trimming Is no contrived that these fringe
llgurcs display lovely patterns nnd shading
In well-arranged color.
FOR EVENING WEAR.
A bow and a rose , the lose a natural one ,
Is what every well-combed head should show
for the evening , For this the hair should be
built high nnd rather far forward , nnd all
women who walk the stialglu and nairow
path that betokens cateful dies Irg arc s lids-
Ing the liolc'tice ' of cultivating Victorian curls
on their forehead. ? . The Victorian curl Is a
rlngM about an Inch or an Inch and a
quaiter long , nnd four or five ought to bob
dalntly on thelbrow. It Is no secret at all
tint the hair diccsers arc veiling wreaths
of ringlets made up especially for any wo.nan
who wishes of her o\vn hair , and these bob
cui l.i can be to adjusted about the face as
to appear as natural as possible.
With evening dress , > oung women who jet
rnjoy the jc'Uth ' nnd Innocent air of deb-
utanteshlp , atsume , In place of tiaras built
of flashing stones , the loveliest head wreaths
of flowers. A head wreath In slnpo exactly
sltnulites a tiara , and U made of very small
blofsonirs and green leaves. Trailing arbu ?
tus , wood anemone , forget-me-not , etc. , nre
woven Into wreaths , and are undoubtedly
wonderfully becoming. Another exceedingly
nice choice In hair dressing Is that of pinning
the- locks down everywhere with silver
prongs , topped with some minute colored de
vice. Nothing since the brownie pin ha.i had
such a place In the > oung girl'n heart ns the
Inlrpln decorated with ml : rocoplc peacocks ,
In all their colors , dragon tiles , green
enameled shamrocks and luck clovers , and a
thousand other wee figures that convert the
new hairpin box Into a veritable casket ot
Infinitesimal curiosities.
Just as many of these gilt or silvered
prongs as are necessiry nre used tp bCttlo
the collTtiie nicely , and In consequence every
debutante's head Is a matter of awe and In
terest to masculine or unenlightened bache
lors. MARY SAUNDEHS.
A MH'Alll.n AVOVIVN IA\VYiit.
Minn HlrtTi'l , CliIontso'M X MV ANNlNtnnt
Corporation Counxrl.
Assistant Corporation Counsel Cora H.
Hlrt7el of Chicago walks , talks and acts lIKe
n woman who likes to be like a man. She
doesn't care a fig for Delsarte. Society
novels are philosophical flimsies. She loves
Thackeray and Blnckstone , writes without
putting the point of her pencil In her mouth
and whittles with the edge of the knife
blade toward her body. She plants her foot
down hard when she steps , Is an expert In
bringing legal lights to a compromise settle
ment , wears shirt waists nnd collars and
the biggest law 111 ins In town trust her with
the preparation of their briefs. She Is and
doeo all this , relates the Chicago Times-
Herald , but she dodges when a man asks her
how old she Is proof that she Is a woman
despite the fact that her name is on the
offlco door as a lawyer.
Miss Hlrtzcl has lived in Chicago a good
part of her life. She Is what she Is be
cause she has earned the distinction. It has
never been her fortune to walk a path of
roses. It probably would have made no
difference had sl.e been taught in her girl
hood that the proper thing for a girl to do
Is to sit still , look pretty and get married.
Ambition Is ambition rich or poor. She had
ambition. She says It was fortunate. In
HLUC AND WHITE.
gratifying her zeal she was laying tip treas
ures against the day 'vhcn ambition and
necessity to cnrn a livelihood might bo ono
and the romc thing. This was before
w onion denied that their single place In life
was beside the cradle. Miss lllrtzel reasoned
with herself She concluded that had she
been born n man rather than a woman she
would have been u lawjer. She reasoned
more. There was no reason why the woman
who wanted lo bo ft lawyer should bo de
barred fiom being a lawyer simply because
men thought she ought not to be ono. She
couldn't see any reason why men should
pick out the future for women anyhow , and
bho gradually allowed It to become known
that die was going to be a lawyer and
posblbly ell on the bench , It made a good
many of the > oung men she knew laugh , but
she has not heard of any of the scoffers
becoming assistant corporation counsels.
Mlaj Hlrtzel had walked into a room
where- six men were waiting for her debut.
She took a chair at the end of a long table ,
put her hands on life arms of the chair
and proceeded lo tell the place of modern
uoiiiin a she BOW It. She made no rcuerva.
tlons , Women have come Into the world to
6tay. It is a necessity that many of them
make their own way. She could BOO no
difference In the mental capacity of the bexej
could not Imagine that It was originally
Intended for men to think and act. for women
to fold their arms and dream. She did not
ride a blc > cle , but ehe was witli any woman
who wanted to ilJo a blcjcle. Women ought
to vote. It was a duty for them to organize.
Women's clubs are good things * . She is not
a member of any women's club , but uhe
would be did not her business take every
uluute of her time utvo a unjall tllowauco
' 1 ' l > 1V C/l\ > /lV 1\
for rccrcntlon. She urged that women should
be 1 anything they wanted to be , nnd that It
was wrong for men to put obstacles In the
, way of their entrance to all department * of
human activity for which they nre physically
fitted. It pcemcd that ahc was the mcst
manly of all new women. The delusion or
tnisplclon went to smithereens In a minute.
She apologized because the wind had rufllcd
her hair.
Judge Gray , up in Ohko h , was her flrjt
tutor. She read In his olllce. She went to
that ton n with her parents from Ottawa
and she Is glad that ihc was born In Illi
nois rather than In Wisconsin. Her parents
came fiom Germany. They don't llko to
have women do much In the professions In
Germany. Miss HIrtrel did not Inherit any
prejudice along this line , nnd It did not p.ir-
tlcul.it ly matter that ho did not get much
encouragement among the men and women
she Knew. She learned to think tot herself
early in life and she Is still doing It. The
moro the dug Into the booko of the Judge's
n litile well rolled tow mannn iHi n K Jil
fprinkllng of Hand Hood drainage in rs en
tlal ami the best way to Insure It la by
putting about one-fourth KO < " ! [ Mean charcoal
or crock * In the bottom of each - > ot
"Afler potting I place the bulbs In n
temperature of from 65 to ifJ iltgrecs , and
they eoon begin to grow. Care should be
taken not to water them too f/cely until
they ro fairly started. A Irslit-spray with
a syringe Jn the morning 1st lout | all that
Is ncccfisary until the pots arc well filled
with roots. Then 1 begin to'Rlv * liquid cow'
manure twice a week , Just enough fertilizer
to color the water to begin with. This
should be Increased In BtrenRthrland applied
rftcncr as the growth nd\ancB , Ao eoon
as the flowers begin to open It ! s not necrp-
c"ary to apply so much waternt'thls stage 1
begin to dry off , and by tlit time they nro
In full bloom I don't give ( hem any.
"U is not at all difficult to raise orchids
from seeds. The plants are as easily fer
tilized as most others , the capsules ripen
as quickly as those of roses or carnations
nnd many of them can be lingered from the
seed In as little time , and In nine cases
out of ten give better results. I bn\o nl-
ways found that seed do best In n pot con
taining a plant of the same genus. In
selecting n location to oow seed take n pot
where- the compost Is pressed In firmly , so
Hint repented watering will not wash the
seed In too deeply to reach the surface after
germination. U Is best to hn\o the
sphagnum of n short ntubby growth so ns
not to smother the seed. After the seedlings
nppiar they must bo guarded against Insect
MK'inlcs until they reach the second or thlid
Ipflf Then they should be pricked oif Hngly
PINK GINGHAM.
Is excellently ehown in the current coinage ,
In which It Is half-concealed by a veil , wlilch
was worn In the earlier years of the reign ,
whfii this form of circlet was In ordinary
use ; and , Indeed , there would eem to be some
doubt au to whether Ihu particular form of
coronet depicted on the piescnt coin la&ut-i
has ever been adopted by the queen In actual
UIB at all , It was this diadem , and another
of E like shape that preceded It , which were
used when her majesty opened or prorogued
Parliament , and also on such occasions as
the marriage of the prlnccca ro > al.
On every occasion on which the queen vis
ited the House of Lords the state crown was
taken out of the regalia room In the Tower of
London and waa bome before her on a quth-
ion. Except for this nurpone the croun has
only left the tower on two occasions during
the reign once for repair ( some part of
the tettlutj having becomu loosened ) and once.
In order to modify thp ermine. The cron
has tuvcr been actually worn by the queen
at any function whatever lnce the act of
coronation sixty yearn ago , and there U noth
ing In the episodes of the forthcoming com
memoration that will require Its removal
from the lower. The slate crown wa made
for the queen byMessrs. . Humlell St. llrldpe
( the predecessors of Oarrards , the pre cnt
holders of the appointment ) , and Us construc
tion is familiar history U may , however , to
Interesting at this Juncture ( o say that the
estimated value at that time of 1m stones-
comprising 2.7S3 diamonds , 277 pearls , sixteen
sapphires , eleven emeralds and four rubles-
was 112,760 , apart from the prlcel s ruby
which belonged to Kdward Ihe Illaek 1'rlnce
and HIP large cipphlro purchased by Ooorge
IV In the opinion of competent experts the
stones still have an Intrinsic worth of a like
sum. e\en If no account be taken of the
value that would attach to their llHmttlout
associations.
sitn iui.n THI : TIIAIV.
Slip Wan n U'oimui mill , nf Coitrxr , linil
HIT \Viiy.
"llcforo 1 came to this part of the country
I was nn .engineer on n railroad down outh , "
n.ild n railway man to the St. Joe Gazette.
"Wo used , to make a long run and we wore
pretty slow about It. While on that line 1
'had ' some \ery odd experiences. I tcmember
one day when we reached the Junction sta
tion a woman came up to me and asked mete
to hold the train for five minutes. She ealil
that her daughter wanted to take the train
11 >
BIIOWN LINEN. RED AND WHITE GINGHAM.
library the more she became wedde'd to her
resolution. The more she read the more she
saw there was to bo read , but work , and not
play , was to bo her lot. The preparatory
course brought her to Chicago ten years ago.
She entered the Chicago Law college. U was
not pleasure at times for her to sit , the sln-
glo woman In a class of seventy-five men
who flnlbhed In 1890. She felt conspicuous.
The men looked upon her as out of _ place.
There were other days when Miss "nmma
Bowerman was with her , and side by side the
two sat as the men smiled , and the smile
was a plain sign of pity for womanly folly.
Corporation Counsel Thornton , wbo r-ade
the appointment. Is anxious to take all the
credit for the appointment of Miss Hlrtzel.
Ho says nobody recommended the action.
iMo did It because It was a wise ajd good
thing to do. He did not know anyone In
town better suited to bs an assistant In the
law department than she Is. Ho needed ex
actly the Information of which Miss Hlrtzcl
has made a specialty. It Is the first time In
the history of womanhood that sue i a dis
tinction has fallen to the lot of tlu better
half of the human race.
LAST SUMMUK'S S'l'HAW HAT.
UMcfnl Tip ' < " ' " " ' 1-L'oiiiiiiileuI YOIII
AVoin ii.
Labt season's straw hats , If not broken ,
may be made to look as good as new if the
economical young woman Is Inclined to make
the effort. A white straw' should be well
brushed and the stiffening vvlro removed.
Then wash It over with a good suds made
of clear water and a white soap , sciub with
a nail brush. Then It should be rinsed
by dipping up and down In clear water. If
any stains still remain a little lemon juice
should bo rubbed on the spot with the brush.
If moro convenient a diluted solution of
oxalic acid may be need Instead of the lemon ,
but the greatest care ought to be taken
of this acid If there chance to bo any chil
dren In the house. After the hat. has been
dried In the open air It should be sponged
over with the white of an egg well beaten up ;
this will make the straw taut , and ali > o
complete the cleansing process. A large hat
should by dried on a flat surface and some-
tlmra have weights ; books are good to press
them In shape.
To bleach straw there are several very
good methods wlilch can bo done at homo
with slight expense and trouble. The hat ,
after being scrubbed aa directed above ,
should be suspended in a close barrel or bgi
with burning sulphur. Cover the barrel
and allow to remain Inside from one to two
hours , Another way Is to cover the hat
over with a paste made of sulphur and sweet
milk. It should be dried In the hot sun and
rubbed off with a Atlff brubh. If the hat Is
greatly stained lemon Jnlco should be used
in place of milk. In the same way a panto
of comment and vinegar may be used with
great satisfaction.
When the hat Is only slightly soiled , and
where there Is Ices time to be spent on clean
ing , a thorough rubbing with a nail brush
and dry cornmeal will prove very efficacious ,
and only require a few moments' work.
UAISIM : oiic.'iins ritoM snuns.
Information from u .SiicocNNfnl flnnicr
of tin * 1'lnal.
The m > Etery which for a long time
ehtoudcd the cultivation of orchids will be
dissipated by the following Information
given by ono of the most successful growers
ot this beautiful plant In New York City.
"Tho mcst easily grown orchids , that IB
for the amateur , " eald this gentleman , "aro
the cyprlpedlums , laellas , calanthes and
dendroblums. The conditions of our northern
latitude make some culture changes neces
sary , and we should try to have the plants ,
after the flowering season , rest as lout ; aa
possible , .which can only bo done by keeping
them very cool , dry and airy.
"After resting the toulha should be set
on sand In eeel pans or cutting boxca. In
a temperature of from CO to Co degrees , the
sand being kept moist EO as to encourage
new growth. After the young roots are
fairly started there should bo no delay 4n
getting the 'bulbs potted , as there Is always
great danger of breaking them. For potting
material I use good fibrous < urf , shaking
out an much as po&slbU thu Jiuc toll , also
nnd put into tvvo-Iiicb pots or baskets , as the
genus may demand.
"The potting material ought to consist of
finely chopped iphagnum moss or half and
half moss and peat. Fill the pot one-fourth
full of crock or charpoal and the bolai-co
with compost , press In firmly MJ so to hold
the tiny plant and also to prev3iit the ma
terial from soaking up too much watc-i.
This done place It in a lightly shad-id part
of the house containing plains of the bine
genus. Don't try to hurry It nnd plv < - the
same kind of treatment as older plants ,
allowing water whenever the compost ap
pears dry. "
VICTORIA'S THIini : CHOWXS.
HUH Only IVorn ( he Stntc OI-OM 11 of
nrvnt Ilrltnln Once in Her Life.
The only crown that Is likely to be used
during the stately functions of the com
memoration , says the St. James Gazette , Is
the tlnra , which is familiar to this genera
tion In sketches of the queen when holding
a drnwlng room. This was manufactured by
the state Jewelers in 18C2 at the personal
cost of her majesty , and. In general terms ,
may bo said to weight eighty troy ounces
It Is a light shell of gold , entirely Incrustcd
wiih diamonds , f > 23 rcsc diamonds , mnklng
an aggregate of 3,130 stones. It is retained
in the charge ot the sovereign , of whom It Is
a personal possession , and to all Intcntu and
purposes never requires any attention. It
WJB specifically devised for use in conjunc
tion with a veil , and. apart from the drawIng -
Ing rooms , has scarcely h cn used at all.
Thh crown was preceded In point of time
by a diadem or circlet ot gold , choicely be-
Jereled , which was made for the queen In
ISfiS. The stones used on this occasion , which
are wholly diamonds , were In the main ciown
Jewels , and the diadem will therefore remain
the property of the crown , although the cost
of mounting them for the use of her majesty
was borne out of the privy purse. This dia
dem Is technically known as a circlet , sur-
mountfd by the cress patec ( whereof the
Maltese cioss Is a decoration variant ) and the
lleur-dc-lls. The general effect of this ciown
to the city. I told her that It was Impossible
for mo to hold the train for her.
" 'I don't > ee why , ' she expostulated. "I
think yon might do a little thing llko that. '
"I trleJ to explain to her that trains ran
on schedule time , and , llko time and tide ,
wait for no man , or woman either , for that
matter. Hut she wouldn't have It , and
finally. Just as wo were about to start , she
shouted Indignantly : ,
" 'Well , I'll Just see about that. '
"I laughed , but scon ceased to laugh , for
what did that old woman do but get right
on the track about three feet In front of the
engine. She sat herself thciv , firmly grasp
ing the hold of the rails with both hands.
The conductor slgnak-d for mo to go ahead ,
as our stop was over. But I couldn't do It
ao long as ehe remained on the track , for I
would kill her certainly. I called to the
conductor , and he , impatient at the delay ,
came up. I explained the situation to him.
Ho was as mad as I was , and , going up to
tlin woman he told her to get off the track.
" 'I Just won't , ' she replied , 'until my
daughter gets on board that train. '
"Ho pleaded with her for some time , and
finally declared that he would have to Ubc
force.
" 'Just yon dare ! ' she cried. I'll sue you
for damages If you do ! '
"This opened a new complication , and wo
reasoned with ourselves whether we had bet
ter remove her by force. Just aa wo hail
determined upon a course of policy her
daughter came up , and seeing the old \\oman
on the track , kissed her good-by and got on
the train , while har mother called to her :
" 'Go aluad , Mary Ann , You have plenty of
time , though , for I will elt on the track un
til you get on board. '
"And then , when Mary Ann was safely on
board , and wo were about ready to run over
the old woman If necetfoary , bho calmly ami
sloxvly got up and waved me a good-by , callIng -
Ing , as we pulled out of tbo station :
" 'I hope I've tcached jou fellers a grain
of perlltoncbs. ' '
A Y.t.MvUi : < ilKI/.S I LUCIC.
KoNiMifil Her Kliincu from
nieu U lillc
James C. Crosby of 1'eabody , Maes. , am !
Mica Katie Hlrney , his fiancee , were held
up and robbed on the night of the Gth , while
dilving In Baker street , near the common ,
In Salem , Mass. U was one of the most
audacious assaults nnd robbcilcs ever com
milled , the victim being compelled to hand
over his watch to the robbers , and his
money and other valuables would have been
taken alt > o but for the presence c ! mind of
the woman , who whipped up the horses ,
enabling them to escape. The two had been
to nee a circus performance. The team vvaa
halted In a dark place by two highwaymen ,
one of whom grabbed the horcea by the brldlij
while the other threatened iMr. Crosby with
a elub. Til Id fellow swung the club most
menacingly. Ho wanted money , he told , and
II lie did not get It the man and woman
would be killed. The attack was so sudden
that Ciosby had not fully recovered Ills
tcnees. Ho was unarmed and was afraid tlia
men would carry out their threat. He
placed his hand In his pocket and pulled out
his watch , which the robbers eagcily took.
It was at this point that Miss Hlrney proved
her bravery , She had watched the proceedIngs -
Ings and was apparently overcome by fright ,
but while the robber was off his guard for
an Instant , when ho took the iwatch , nhe
grabbed the whip and struck the horses a
stinging blow. The animals swerved to the
right and became telrased from the hold
of the other man , and da&hed an ay up the
street. The robber wbo had taken the watch
was knocked down and run over.
FlINlllllll JN
The now black cloth Jackets are trimmed
with white lace applique ,
Grog grain silk Is revived again for dressy
gowns worn by matronly women.
White kid , embroidered with colored beads ,
la lined for rovcre , cuffu and bclta on cloth
gowns ,
Fancy Oxford ties , with a patent leather
vamp and finish , are made of moire vetour In
various tints of green , blue , dull red and
brown.
"Laulseno , " a kind of popllnette , Is among
the new and popular materials , and It comes
In very tmiall checkb of various colors.
to match or harmonize with tU
color of your co lutne ro one of fashUm' * new
whims , and dainty pockctbooks are nude nt
mauve , green , blue and brown leather
Beautiful "drc s" lolletn of black silk
grcnadlnn nro made up with bodice trlm
nlngs of white or mauve satin overlaid with
very elegant designs In Venetian lace.
Ono ot the many Jubilee sovereigns Is nn
umbrella with a Dresden handle , decornlrd
with gold and a potrnll ot Queen Victoria In
icr coronation robes , copied Irom a picture
at Windsor castle.
Tiny ca shells nre the latest decoration
on some of the new galons and embroideries
with beads , silver nnd gold threads and liar-
ow ribbons so much cmplo > td In the season's
[ rlmmlnys
"Tyiolean hats ot the brigand shape" are
consldcicd by English women to be the best
and moat becoming for e > cling , and the brims
and crowns are often of constnutlng color.
Canvas hats , lee , are olien very much
favored.
A pretty chemisette vest for foulard and
t > nrcg& gowns Is made ot white moussellno do
sole , striped arioss with little flills of nar
row cream luce headed by one row of nar-
low black velvet ribbon.
Foretjn'ng ' dnss > oung girls wear wreaths
ot flowers In their hair which Is arranged
blub on the he d. Forget-me-nots arc very
pretty nnd n narrow wreath of green leaves
is often very becoming
Skirts flounced from the hem to the waist
with rullles thapcd so that they requlto no
gathers nnd edged with nariovv cream lace nro
decidedly the latest fancj nnd arc especially
effective1 In glace silk.
A stylish bicycling hat Ins n sailor brim
of l'anama , stinw and u Tain O'Shantcr
crown of nccordloii-plaltcd ennvns , and Is
trimmed with a band ot velvet , n losettf
of turquoise hluo satin and two black
quills.
Red.which Is such a popular color this
season , nccde. great care In making a selec
tion , as It Is either very becoming or very
vulgar as It harmonbes or Is a discordant
element. In Its effect on the woman who
wears It.
Double nnd triple flounced skirls of gmd
dated depth arc noted among new summer
drcfses for dny wear. They nre made sever-
nlly of foulard silk , colored linen , chambray.
plain colored French 7cphyr goods , batiste
and dimity. Each flounce Is finished with n
hem nnd n cluster of narrow tucks.
Very pretty beach and mountain suits arc
made ot daik blue ctamlne with i evens and a
poitlon of the lound wnlstand sleeves formed
of embroidered gras-s linen In openwork de
blgns Thrj fancy for cciu , tail and flax-
colored linen continues agiln tliU jear , and
almcst every day some novelty of thla de-
bcHptlon appears.
A very new , wiry stuff , not unlike etnmlne
In weave , only much stlffcr , comes In all the
bright shades and Is much Ubcd nu faclugs or
for a puff eel Into the upp r edge of the
crowns of the hat. Brown with giecn puff
of this let In , Is very swagger. By the
way , the hats almost without exception nro
faced.
Very attractive nnd dainty nre the exqui
sitely sheer Swlt-s muslin dresses made up
over crlbp , lustious , whlto tnffeta silk. A
lovely model Is made with Vaml > ke trim
mings formed of Valenciennes Insertion and
lace. Very deep points to match are In
serted In the scami > on the front and side
breadths of the gored skirt.
A , wise authority awo-ls that a revolution
in millinery is going on ; that the large hat
li , not among the latest novelties , and that
thb proper thing is the mcdluai stupe , round
and flat , trimmed round Ihc crown , with no
nsseitlvo osprey , or aigrette of rlbbono ,
flowers or lace at the side. When fea.ln rs
nro used they arc arranged to droop on the
hair ut the side.
The new bilk petticoats of brocade ni d
light bhot slIKs are from three to three and a
half jards around , made with ono deep
llniince from the knee , trimmed with a lace
edgt. ' , and rowb of Insertion between clutters
of tucks. A wide flounce with a narrow
rullle on the edge , falling over a double
ruche on the skirt , Is n favorite mode of
trimming , as It assuica the full effect at
the bottom.
Nearly all blouse bodices are made to
pouch over the waist-band or girdle , whether
this girdle or band be carried almost to
the arm-pits or be merely the nariovv eat
of belts. This style makes the Mendeiest
figure , hqwevcr long wai&tcd , look clumsy ,
but the droop of the material In Uio Imme-
dlato front alone gives the effect of a point ,
and adds length to a short wnlst. To uni-
row figures , the full double frill carried
down the front , narrowing as it nears the
waist , or , as some frills do , terminating mid
way , la exceedingly becoming.
The modified sleeve grows prettier nnd
more fascinating In ( style as It nppears
formed ot all the sheer and dainty summer
textiles and guriiltureo. Never were models
more of "happy-medium" contour , or more
appropriately trimmed than now. The new
shapes and effccto are leglun. The founda
tion or basis of most of the popular Btyle
Is a closely fitted shape clicking the arm like
a long glove , either flat and very close If
the arm Is plump , or wrinkled Its entire
length If over-slender. The best models are
silk lined , and hav-j an under-arm piece
that l , the sleeve is made with two teams.
The afternoon ccntumrn of ecru linen ,
TOCO DOTS.
gross cloth , or tan-colored Holland are dlf-
tlnctly different ( rom 'ho popular morning
suits of duck and linen twill , with open-
fronted Jacket chlrt waist , as they are made
up In much more ornate ttyle , though they
are of blmple cut , a/5 all-day gowns tliould
be. They consist of a box-pleited , belted
round walnt , cl 33 sleeves , with tops puffed
and trimmed with Insertion , and the kilted
Mrt hai Insertions of linen lace above the
drop hem. On very slender figures the \\al t
Is crofscd with llieton bands of the inrei-
lion , with a band encircling the 6houldera
In yoke-etmpe. The glovev , hat , parasol , nnd
hhoea are of white or eciu , matching thu
tint of the linen laco.
KfllllllllKlttN ! ,
Mrs , Janus T. Fields of Boston has been
Invited by relatives of the late Harriet
needier Stowo to write that distinguished
lady'a biography.
Dr. Llllas Hamilton and Mies Edith Sing
have Just been appointed head workers In a
woman's social settlement In Liverpool , Both
women have had great experience.
The czarina of Russia has Juet paid her sub
scription of 1,000,000 roubles for the building
of residential quarters for women attending
St. Petersburg Medical Institute.
MU > 3 Lottie Farnsworth Is a professional
blcyclo racer , and is becoming noted for the
masculine qualities she exhibits In her riding ,
in addition to the feminine one of endur
ance.
'Mary ' It , Uabsou , daughter ot IIou ,
certain inil
for A1L KINHS OF COt'OHS Nothing In-
JUilous nbnil It Mim.Nins cHmdllon , n PCJV-
nrte e-uie for each dl cii e , "
for sate nt all dingiriMM.
Mostly ? 5o Mnnv oil's ( , uldc
to Health nui : If In doubt
vvilto direct to I'ROF Mt'NYON , 1W3 Arch
Street , riillndeliihla , 1'n. , for free medical
ndvlce.
Austin Dobson. Is one of tlio most active ,
workers In the university settlement In Bom
bay , luilln. She does a great deal of good
nini ) 11R the raisecs , '
Mine. Audlffred ban given to Ilio French
Academy of Medicine about 134,000 , of which
( lie Interest nearly 1,000-will be awarded , ,
without leg.ird to nationality , for Ilio dU <
covcry of a euro for tuberculosis.
Miss Loul o Mutiny , who has been op-
poltiteil public vacelimtor for Sjracuse , N.
Y. . Ins Ju t fnlerod upon her duties with'
huilnctflllke tact. fche Is the first \\oinan who
has ever filled such an nltlce. She U a.
graduate of the medical colleRP nt Sjracime ,
N. Y.
Mrs. J. II l-rriich of llclolt , WIs , has bo- '
( | uc.itlied a law sum of money to llclolt col
lege on tondlilon that vl\l rctlon shall not *
be piaetle d In niiy drpnrtnunt It the rule la
trnnsgressul the money \\lll levett to the
AIIHM-IP in Humane Foclotj To tlic latter
Mrs. French ronw time ngo left JU'.OOO. '
Miss Whittled Warren , daughter of the
president of Hoslon university tins boon
appointed teacher of l.atln nt Vnfkar col
lege. It will be remembered that Miss War -
ron won the Latin fellowship from llrju-
Mnwr college In 1S93 , and Is now In Europe
cnjojlng the advantages of that classical
fellowship.
Mrs , . I.cavltt'slolet farm nt Meadow-
brook pa > s her handsoino dividends. Begin
ning with one * Binnll glass covered pit , nha
now IIHH a dozen Inrge greenhouses nnd la
not nblo to nil nil hci4 orders , even with
these. The \lolcls nre exquisite In slip ,
uolor ami fragintii < the single oueo being aa
laigo s small pnnslcs.
North Carolina ban n tobacco fnrmer who
Is Mlas Sue M. Comer , nery pretty young
woman , who lives lienr Madison. She does
nil the work of the fnrm herself nnd re
cently bioiiKht her crop of tobnecu to Win
ston. U wns sold and bioueht the > oung
woman n good , round pi Ice She raised the
crop heibclf , came to market with It and
looked after the i-alca
Mrs. 1) lllller , at one time n resident of
New York , when her husband died linil him
enclosed In n solid mahogany casket , mounted
with gold nnd lined with corded silk which
wan said to have cost $40 u yard. The
hinges wcie of gold ami n solid knob of gold
weighed six pounds. Mm. lllller had a
similar casket made for heiself. Her shroud
cost $20,000.
Miss Han let Dnyd , the noble young womi'.n
who \olunlceied her t-eivlccs as a nnrbo nt
the beginning of the ( Jreck war , happened to
bo In Athens , as she vvno attending the
Ameilcnn Archaeological school. Shu and a
Cictnn woman have hart entire charge of
sixty patients at n hospital nt IJolo. As
some hn\o convalesced others have tnlicn
their places. She graduated from Smith
college In 1S92.
Mlbs Maud Earl Is Just now receiving 'a '
great deal of prulso for bur flue portraits of
dogs which are on exhibition In London.
Many perrons state that MlbB Karl's paint
ing of dogs will become us renowned tik
llofca llonheiir's horses. The collection in
cludes a portrait of Queen Victoria's famous
collie , "Snowball , " which wns presented to
her nt the time of her Jubilee. There ur >
several pictures of the handsoino djogs of thb
prince nnd princess ofValia
Among Mile. Calve's most cherished pos
sessions Is n small hory crucifix , which Is
said to have come from Jerusalem In tfiij
first place. This olio has alwajs had with
her dining the bcvere Illness from which
she has Mirrored during recent years and
she nttributcs to It her Maturation to health1.
So great Is Mile. Cal\o's confidence In the
emblem that when she heard of the Illness'
of Mine , Raines she drove at once to the
nttcr'o hotel and left the little crucifix with
ncr as a help and comfort during her in-
ValldlMU.
THI : oi.n TinnHs.
Dr. James Martlnean Is the dean of au
thors for the Victorian Jubilee. He IB 92.
and published his first book In 1S37.
Captain Francis Martin of Detroit , who1
has Just celebrated his 87th birthday , was1
present at the 1'arls funeral of Napoleon
the Great.
Mrs. Clara Fisher Macder , the once fa
mous actress , now SC years old , has published
her mcinoire. She went on the stage when
0 years old and followed the profession con
tinuously for seventy-two years.
Dr. James Martlneau , who has Just cele
brated his 92d birthday , Is on of the few
living authors whoso literary activity datca
from the beginning of the Victorian reign.
Dr. Martlneau published his first book , "ThB
Rationale of Religious Inquiry , " In 1837.
Richard W. Thompson of Terre Haute ,
( ml. , ex-secretary of the navy , celebrated
the 88th anniversary of his birth last
Wednesday. A few evenings ago , before the
Terre Haute Literary club , he delivered a.
lecture on the war between Greece and Tur
key , which wns said to ba a fine effort. 1 |
Mrs. Elizabeth iA. Church of Bristol , It !
[ . . celebrated her 84th birthday laot week.
Her husband. Captain Nathaniel Church ,
who died about ten jears ago , was an offlctf
In the Bristol train of artillery during tljp
Dorr war. In 1M2. He was a descendant
of Captain Benjamin Church of colonial King
i'hlllp war fame , n
Mr . Eliza D Stewart , who organized th
first woman's temperance union In the west ;
celebrated her 81st blrthJay nt Springfield ) '
O. , recently. Mrs. Stewart oriaul/cil the
flrfit union nt Osborn , 0. , with 100 mem
bers , In 1873. Since then , up to iccent years- , '
she has employed her enilro time In acllvfr
work. She took the Woman's Chrlstlai
Temperance union Into Virginia in 1878 and
Introduced the bluc-rlbhou pladgo work
among the colored puoplu there.
wnn.v DAY is mm : . i i ,
Written for The lice.
When dny Is done , how cnlm the rest , ' '
Ilnvv loved In truth the ovcntlmc ; " '
How gently fulls the IlKhteBt quest. 11
How soft tliii dlKtunt mellowed chlrne , '
An nnsel-hnnd wrlteH , "Pence Is won.'J
On western Bkkn , when dny Is done.
And blest me they of drcninlesi sleep , ' '
Whcic every Hiinbeiini BtenlH nstruy , pl '
In Hllent graves HO deep so deeli IT
They nwe the birds that wing that way/
And yet It wems each burled one , , ,
Must JiMir hi * tnoinner'M orison. , /
Hut norrow Inyn upon her HPH , ' *
A linger silencing our pain ; ' '
And from our cnre.s the vision slips
HIP wt > recall our gilef agiiln , i
Tor Ood'fl own benediction lle-i
When day IB done , oncary eycH.
Tim cricket trebles In the deep , ' '
lll reedy notcn pleliclanled ; ,
Tlu- bat 11 moo < ly vigil keep" ,
In hnunlH the lire nt noon had prized. ' > ' <
And enrth grows still with heaven near.i
When eventldo nnd dreams urn here , i ,
-CATHJJUINK HUSH , ' . .
Omaha , Neb.
Women with vitality do not Buffer femald
uealuifM and Irregularities. Blood is vital
ity. 1111 Anaemic I'lnlt makes rinh red
blood. Ita \ composed largely of concentrated
beef blood and Is the great blood builder. "
A Mirt'ml ( ; < IIIIT.
The Scottlech American tells a ntory of a
cobbler who was bentcnced by a Scottish
magistrate to pay a line of half a crown , or.
In default , twenty-four huurx' hard labor. If
ho chroo the latter ho would bo taken to the
Jail at Perth. "Then I'll go to Perth , " ho
snld , "for I have bomo business there. " An
olllclal conveyed him to Perth , but when the
cobbler reached the Jail ho said he would pay
the fine. The governor found ho would have
to take It. "And now , " said the cobbler , 'II
want my faro home. " The governor de
murred , hut discovered ( hero was no alterna
tive , the prisoner must be bent at the publlo
expellee to the place ho had been brought
from ,
Dr. Austin Flint , late professor In nelle-
vuo Hospital Medical college , Fellow of New
York Atademy of Medicine , honorary mem
her of the State Medical societies of New
York , Virginia , llhoile iHland. .MoMathutetti ,
etct.ays , In speaklni ; of might's dlnenue ,
or advanced kidney ( lineage , "The minor ef-
ftcts are headache , lota of vUlon , Impaired
hearing , involuntary muscular twitching ,
cramps , drounlnceiomltlnK and diarrhoea.1
These are iliut somu of the common uymutouu
of thu ! malady , which accountu for Warner'i
.Safe Cure curing no many dlaeaiiei ! which ara
but symptoms of udvuuctJ kiiluuy dlsgrdera.
