Image provided by: University of Nebraska-Lincoln Libraries, Lincoln, NE
About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Dec. 1, 1895)
OMAHA DAILY llKKi Sl. JbAY , DISC MM HER 1 , 131)5. | J _ WOMAN'S DOMAIN. for tlrlllliuit CttrlftUnnft I'nr y TnllrttrN. NEW YOUK. Nov. 29. In the maRninccnt production of "King Arthur" In New York. Sir Udward IJurno-Jonci and Henry Irving ( as lift tnotlcitly culls himself ) have given to the feminine world tome wonderful Ideas for costuming , Never since the beginning of stage realism and splendor hive mere clothes been brought to such perfection as that reached by the gowns worn by Miss Terry In this play ! and the reason for fancy dresi approaching , they give , with their , poetry , exquisite suggestion1 * for "Twelfth-Night" and other costume fes tivals. In the flnt act of "King Arthur" Is shown tlio great hall of Cantelot , In which the queen makes knoUn her love to Lancelot. Hire Miss Terry wears a long robe from the shoulders , BO splendidly embroidered that . It scrapes the iloor with metallic rustlings. A band of Jewel blu ? , town with Bms , gets dnwn each side the front of this , the garment bslng held In place by clasps At the shoulders. For the rest , this royal cloak , which Is worked In great gilt and silver rings , Is so tenderly hued thnt It l difficult to tell where pink and brown begin nnd yellow ends. The gown uiulrr It li In these fame dun shade * , made of n Jersey weavi- silk , sewn with copper beads , and v'lottlng through the sl.lrt timings of an under petticoat In the jewel blue. DODV AND OIRDLn. A seamle3 Jersey bodice , with tight sleeves , nnd turning back at the throat o\er a little chemisette of embroidered gauze , la the uppsr portion of the gown. The skirt hangs full from the hips and is so long at front and sides that In btandlng It reals on the lloor. At the loins It Is girdled with a nirrowr jeweled belt , with ends that bang In front , between the knees , to the feet. The head arrangement for this queenly getup - up Is no less splendid. As Oulnevere , Miss Terry vvenis one of the girlish yellow wigs so becoming to her cvcr- young type , and this Is parted simply , turnIng - Ing back from the face In puffs , a circlet of turquoises and silver outlining the crown. At the back the streaming locks are bunched together at two points by slide brooches of the same. Tor the reception of the Round Table Knights n short lace veil , that hangs each side of the face , Is added , a Jeweled crown , with wings spreading out ward over the ears , topping the whole. The- second act of the play shows the queen's maylng , and here , Instead of court formality , love and youth ate enchantlngly costumed. In this woodland scene Guinevere appears crowned with flowers and gowned In n short walsted frock ot bright emerald green silk , lustreless and P3ft as wool. The sleeves of this are alto small , though wrinkling over the arms like a glove. At the bust the bodice opens low over the same delicate gauze chemisette of the first act , the short waist line coming Immediately under. The skirt of this gown , as well as those of the other two worn later , also hangs full and long about the feet ; from the knee down Is ELLEN TCRRY SECOND ACT OF KING AHTIIUn. richly spangled , with long upturned points of a brownish lace set In as n border. A lace tell of the same misty brown hangs at the back , from the wreath on the head to the bottom of the skirt , which Is about even all around. A PURPLE noun OP SORROW. In the third net. In the tilrret above the river , Guinevere wears the first and only som ber gown of the play. In color It had all the rich Bhadlngs of a purple pansy , a paniy over which had flown a gruy-bluclc dust , and through tbls sudden violet light ? . The model was the same short- natstcd slip of all but the Jersey gown of the first net. As to textures , changeable silk , crimped gauze and u rich plush stamped to Imitate an animal sit In were employed ; an entire slip ot the gnuze over the silk , the plush hanging across the shoulders back anJ front In a long stole end. There were some gleaming red bits of em broidery at shoulder and wrists of sleeves and leading brown shadows In the plush stole pieces. In the last prison scene Miss Terry wears a costume of white silk , richly "worked In dim gold , and with floating angel sleeves , a marvel of picture eli-gince and charm , but not exactly the thing for a repentant , Guine vere. vere.With U was worn the long , misty brown veil of the woodland scene , and which , from ELLCN TEHHV THIRD ACT OP KING AHTI1UR. brad to flilrt hem , veiled the shining back breadths. A WITCH'S COSTUME. From Queen Guinevere to tJie > trappings of a witch Is a long step , but the Illustration demands Its bridging. This dainty little cos tume U especially suited to a ( lender figure nnd dark tjpe , and Is ot ttamo colored tulle and black velvet. Tha skirt and under bodlco are ot the flame tulle , n lizard In changtablo hues and a rat bolng embroidered on the skirt , The black velvet boillcd lacea with gold cord , and n stuffed black cat la perched or. the shoulder , drey felt witch's hat , fhme silk stockings and flame satin shoes , very painted , Suede gloves In came thsdo ot red , and witch's broom , A modish and dainty Winter U shown In the recond cut. The entire costume Is first mndo cf white satin , front gore1 of skirt being left plain and edged each side with swans- down. Over the sides and back of skirt hang Hires skirts of tulle , one ftt top frosted with Ice powder. Sleeves of satin bodlco nlfo of this glitter ing tulle ; E\\aiisdo\vn about the neck , at FOLLY. sleeve bottoms , nnd edging tops of long white suede glcnes. Shoss of whltet satin much frosted , and on the head cither a silver skate or crown of Icicles. If liked , an empty bird cage on left shoulder. NINA PITCH. A IMIINCHSS * HIllTIinAY. A Hull nt Siiiiilrliiislmiii Hint Ole- briiU-n tlie Ktrnt. The princess of Wales' birthday Is Decem ber 5. A ball Is always given at Sandrlngham In honor of the occasion , which Is attended " " families well by the by the "county" , as as tenants of the estate. The Invitation cards always say " 10 o'clock , " and shortly after that hour the b-autlful white and gold ball room at Sand rlngham Is crowded with gussts , the bril liancy of the same being enhanced by the members of the West Norfolk Hunt club who all wear pink hunting coats. Soon after 10 30 the royal party enters the ball room to the strains of the national nn- thsm. Some duke of high degree , posslbb the duke of Cambridge , comes first , leading the princess of Wales , followed by the prince with a grand lady on his arm. Upon one occny'on the duchess of Manchester war thus honored. The Princess Victoria of Wnls comes nc\t. escorted posslhlj by the high sTierlff of Norfolk , with the Princess Maud following , led by a prince or a duke or a lord. lord.After the procession , which Is made up of a lot of royalties and nobllltlEs , has made the grand tour of the room , the first quadrille la formed , In which the princess ot Wales , ns well as others of tbs rojal party. Join. At the last birthday ball one old tenant was heard to remark : "Year after jear , tha princess looks just the same " Indeed , she Is alwa > s lo\cly nnd charming and so beautifully dressed : for Instance , to ngcln quote "Tho last ball , " her gown was of black satin and black lace , with laig > clusters of deep red roses , nestling In the lace ruehe around the hem of the skirt and continued up one side. Thobodico was also trlmm'd with red roses , In her train she wora a dla3cin of brlll'ants ' and red roses and around her 'broil a lo\el ) necklet of diamonds nnd the order of Vlctoila and Albert. Her ball dress was made with thf old-fashioned court bodlco , the shoulder- strap drooping cnto the arm. The princess Victoria and Maud are usu ally dressed alike and more often than not In white possibly white silk and tulle , with silver embroidery. The prince of Wales always wears hunting pink upon these occasions , and the broad blue ribbon of the star of the garter. The loyal party leaves the ball room nbaut 3 o'clock , but It Is considerably past 4 before the last cir- rlago rolls through th2 Norwich gates The program of dancea Is always printed prettily Iri various colors nnd kept as a souv enir by the guesls to remind them o "My last ball at Sandrlnghnm. " The music Is by the band of the rojal horse guards. The program Includes polkas , waltzes , ol conra ? ; the Highland Echottlsche , which in always danroJ , Covent garden Inncers , and four quadrilles , the opening one being to the muelc of "The Gondoliers. " The last number on the program < s a calop. MIAHT STATIO.VnuY. llrlilul Nolc , Satin Kilnrvil mill Illuc llorilvrtMlltli llliti'lc for Mournliw. The charm of the new fashions In note paper Is the exceeding simplicity of all , save what the stationer calls French mourning sheets. They are of rough finl-h , tinted a truly heavenly blue and bordered as widely or as narrowly as you please with the con ventional black line. These sheets come large and fold over once Into big , blue , black- edged envelops , to be sealed with a dull black wax and small mourning die. This last , following rrcuch taste , represents a most lugubrious broken column , draped urn or angel with drooping wings , and the post age must be always two blue 1-cent stamps , In place of the cheerful carmine square. Truly modish escritoires are now being re plenished with French linen paper , bound llko the t > pewrlter's pads , the sheets delicately perforated at the top to permit ready de tachment. Some of these pads are only five Inches long by three Inches broad and meant for a mere mot par le postc. Every sheet Is stamped In the left hand corner with pimple small printing and only one side Is written upon. Again the address appears , very small on the flap of all envelopes and the predom inating color for the stamping Is blue. This on the popular government blue bond paper , of which the pads are made , shows In raised letters and a trlllo darker shade than the paper Itself , while a clear blue Parisian ink Is employed , Finally these neat notes , when wax Is used at all , are sealed with blue , but wax Is temporarily out of favor , as are the elaborate mottoes , monograms and even the little round medallions so prettily utilized last > car. Very particular persons will show the single Initial of their surname sur mounted my some * chosen animal from the family crest , but done > ery email and In the corner ot the sheets. Desldes all these dainties far correspond ence , nearly every woman now has what she calls her business stationery. This ls stout Irish linen , bound In pads , but ample In size and stamped In plain printed black letters with the address , abbreviations for dating , and In the opposite corner from this appears the ladj'd name In full , with a notice that her hours are from S ) to in or 12 to 1 on cer tain days. Such paper she uses for all bus iness correspondence , relating to her philan thropic work especially , For the bride on her honeymoon there baa recently been designed a special stationery , put up In a white satin circular box. Within are fifty sheets of rather rough cream white pcper , showing a deep border In eat In finish ar.il prepared for stamping with one's newly acquired Initial and tbe address of the house where the honeymoon is to be spent. Doth envelopes and piper are tied up with a pro fusion of white ribbons , through tbe bows of which are tlirus } an Ivory peutiandle with gold point , a tiny paper knife and two sticks ot perfumed uhlto wax complete the outfit. Correspondence cards are quite out of favor , end even tbe dinner , muslcale and at home Invitations are engrtved on folded sheets of blub bond paper In the ns\v blue Ink , but the present custom Is , when writing a brief note on a postal card , to tend tha postal cards together. Though wax Is out of countenance en en velope flaps It 1 ? applied to a new u e , for Ug sticks , of It one sees In the stationer's stock In trade are meant for sealing parcels. A book sent by post , borrowed gloves or handkerchiefs to be returned , a gift for warded by n messenger boy or personally de livered at a friend's door , are all wrapped In paper and seiled with wax , In place of tvlng up with string. Great birs of red or black wax are sold for the purpose and every seal stamped with a big signet ring , tbe die ot which Is ns large as a quarter of a dollar and bear one's crest and Initial ? . JOHN oi.ivnu iiomir.s. A Trctty New niiitltuiil Woman " \Vlio HUN Cronlcil ii Literary Seimntlon. A slim , dark-haired woman , muffled In furs , who came down the long gangway of the Campania the other day In Nsw York , has created n pleasing rip ple of eager curiosity among the book writing and book reading public. Some of the Cam pania's passengers pointed her out as John Oliver Hobhcs , others as Mrs. Cralgle , and a few of them knew enough to explain that the author of the crisp , Interesting , sallrlca.1 little novels , read nnd admiral widely , both In England and America , Is a native of the United States and her maiden name was Pearl Richards. "She 4s a New Englander , " explained one passenger better Informed than tht rest , nnd who carrl d one of Mrs. Cralglc's studies of London society under her arm. "Her father went to England , howecr , when eh was very young , so that her oJucitlon nnd early Influences were English , but a more tjplc.il American woman It would b ; hard to find. She Is slender , vtvac'oua and sensitive , like her countrywomen , dresses In excsll nt taste and hiy a charming figure , hut her beautiful teeth and curiously colored ojes are her most exssllent features. " It was when sttl ) a mere child , not more than Iti , Miss nichards posseted a name amqng her friends for Intelligence wonder fully beyond her jears , and accordingly her parents gave her every educational advantage. She was able then to amuse a tableful of the cleverest men nnd women by her unusual conversational brilliancy , prompt repartee and delightful witticisms. In London her remarks were rehea-scd at dlnlngs and the Impression able young englishmen were her willing slaves. They feared while they adored nnd often failed to comprehend tbls amazing , sar castic , gay , coquettish little American lady. All the while , however , she made no effort ? at authorship , but after the fashion of Uncle Sam's daughters , enjoyed heartily the- frivoli ties of society , danced , dined and coolly ac cepted the adorat'on ' of pink-cheeked guards men , serious-minded politicians , men of title and the artistic celebrity alike , who followed ! n her train , and spant her girlhood days In her father's handsome hou"3 in Lancaster Oate in London. Flrnlly , and while still very young , she married Mr. Cralgle , a man of good family and excellent position in the Dank of England , but as every one knows , this matrlmonhl venture proved a fillure , and last year Mrs. Cralgle asked for and found In tha law coJrts her freedom again. Through all the painful legal processes she bore herrelf , under peculiar trials , with the utmost dignity and was given the absolute control of her only child. It was very early In this unhappy married life , as a eolncc In the midst of her troubles , that Mrs. Craigle turned natunilly to her pen , writing as ehe pleased , with no view to catering to public favor , to earning potorietj or gaining a sup port. This all was proved by her peculiar ttylc , her very hcterdox ta'ste In characters nnd plot building , her brevity and her curious psuedonym. The very first of her books , however , found n large and enthusiastic audience In England nnd before American readers knew her true name , sex and nationality , her stories and studies were everywhere dlecussed , Since then she seems to have found her true voca tion In life , and In the very great grief and seclusion following her divorce liai devoted herself exclusively to literary work. In England her books are eagerly published for serial publication , then Issued In bound volumes nnd their success promptly repeated In America. Dut for all the entluulasm ot her publishers , Mrs. Cralgle will only work at her leisure , on the. spur of Inspiration and with most painstaking care. For the rest , her llfo la busy with the many artistic Interests of London and di vided between her pen and her piano. Had lltcratura not clalmctl Jier first Interest , she1 would hnvo gained equal fame as a'musician , and the friendships of her maturer years have been mailo In London's wide circle of artists , author * , statesmen and In the great musical colony. In splto of the fact tint her homo and Immediate family are in England , Mrs , Cralgle Is still a very staunch American , and at short Intervals returns quietly to the old New England home , where members of her parent's family still. This time she 5iai come over chiefly for the sake of her llttlo one , and to enjoy , as she expresssd It , a gen uine Now England Thanksgiving and a Christmas Bucli as she knew when a little girl. I'U.-NCTUIUM : Till : EAII9. The Operation N'cn1'rrfornieil I'liln- leHNly AVhlle You Wnlt. "The habit of wearing earrings U not dead by a long shot , " said a jeweler to the St. Louis Ilepubllo reporter , as he caressed come gems especially set for the new style ot wearIng - Ing ornaments In the cars , "These delicate diamonds set In this gold ccrew are worth $200 , and If a lady should come along and want to add them to her ornaments , and If she did not have a place to put them I mean , of course , punctures In her ears , we would in a few moments attend to her wants. All jewelers now have needles In their stores for the especial purpose of puncturing holes In ears , and It Is an hourly occurrence for them to come In and have thli service performed. It only lakes a few moments. You eee this needle ? " ae he held up a delicately shaped piece of steel before the eyes ot his listener. "Well , this Is the little thing : which performs the service of giving a lady an additional place to bestow and beautify with ornaments. The style of wearing ear ornaments Is not what It used to be , I remember when the ladles wore great earrings which weighed in ounce. You never lee any of Ibem now , do you ? Well , tbey wear these plain stones , stuck In the lobes of their eari , and I think tbey really aid a woman's Rppe rnnc ThMT&fcn the or is not shown at nil when IheAtirt worn. The rtono In front covers it trrtniVvlfu , nnd the clasp behind the enr perfor m ? a flmllar office. Yen , It Is a fact that mot fr < do not allow their chlldren'n ears to be punctured nowa d js , but when the child r 'li grow up they have them punctured themr fXca , and MO about the fame percentage of lad/A / wear ear orna ments ns there formerly did. How did they puncture their ears In theras 7 Well , with a nerdle , but they did not tejiho salves thnt we have now. In olden d y , some frleml would take a needle nnd punch holes through the lobes nnd then straws were Inserted Into the holes nnd allowed to remain until the poreneso hesled. I have teen the ears of vic tims swelled up to n trc-mi-iidous gbe. They suffered nil kinds of ngonjr for weeks nt n tlmo Just to get In line with' their friends In wearing the same kind of ornaments. The present style Is now far ahead of the former stjle , I think , without a doubt. It looks so much better to ese n Udy wearing a shiny dewdrop of n dlatnonJ In her cam thin n hetvy gold ring , or anything like that which drags the ears out and makes them about twice ns long osthey really ought to be. ' A\ OMT.NV 1 1 ( rifl'Vll A N C 1 1 US. Seem to lie Very Siieeemfiil I" Cull- fornlii V Mutt MnKeM CoitttuirlxotiN. The women who are engcgcd In ranching In California are said to Inv.rlpbly b ; suc cessful , moreso than men In many Inrtancss , which Is accounted for bj the fact that If ix woman has business ability It Is her sole ambition to develop It to the fullest extent , and she has no desire to waste hsr energies In any othei direction. The one Idea Is dom inant In her mind , and only things which hnvo a direct biarlng on her business cm claim her attention. A man wrltl.g en the subj ct Bajs that 75 per tsnt of the men who fall to make- ranch pay In tb ? fruit ful state of California do so for the reason thnt they find other things more conger.lil and do not nttcnd to their business. "Men who have no resources within themselves arerurii to get dissatisfied with the com plete Isolation from congenial Intercourse nnd advantages of society , while with women It Is different. They ssem to bo more resource ful than men. Thslr continual environment Is perhaps the best educator toward content ment , nnd the continual yielding to public opinion ns to whnt she shall nnd shall not do Is the training which assists n woman In commercial enterprise. Sh ! has no de sire to venture Into other kinds of business , or any disposition to fritter away her time over the flowing bowl complaining of her 11 luck. " Many women clilm tint hoiiRehold dutle- are \ieavy In comparison with outdoor manua labor , and that ths > arc stronger and health ier when they work In the open nir. Sevcra women In the northern part of the state have been eminently successful with their fruli ranches , and other * equal y so In the eoutl cm part of the state. One very enterprising wo- WITCII AND WINTER. man has herself planted several hundred acres to deciduous fruits , nnd gets a good In come besides from her wheat and hay fields She U a young widow , and in addition to her ranch she runs a hotel. She Is out early every morning on horseback Inspecting the ranches and directing the day's work , which Ib pretty well accomplished before the men who own adjoining properties have flnlshec their broakftt't. A teacher In on ? of the Indian schools manages several hundred acres of wheat fields every jear , and very success fully , tco. And another woman In Los An geles is known a * the best real es ata opsrator in southern California. She will take hold oi a most unattractive pUce of property nni nuiKo money out of It. In San Francisco there are two women wno ! ha\Q gained n high reputation among hortl- cultuilsts and carry en a large successful business. Their methods are businesslike and very satisfactory to thlr customers , while their Intelligent understanding of hoitlculturo In all Its branches makes them capable of teaching so much to others. They make a specialty of Importing rare plants and bulbs and Introduce them Into Russia , as well as other countries. A LHADHIl Oil1 Him SU.V. I'avtvrftil Influence Iitipriix lilt ; tin Cuiiilltlon n ( .Ini"iit WoiiK-M. One of tbo mou ! . active and Influential ad- vccates of the advancement of woman in Japan , says a writer In the , Chicago Record i'j Mine. Oyama , wife of Tlelii Marshal Oyama , who Is at the same tlms secretary of war nnd commander-In-chlef of the army. The Marchioness Ojania Is a thorough Eng lish scholar , having been sent to the United States at the age of 1C with a dozen or mor.- girls to be educated. ShJ t-psnt nearly ten jiara In this country , and was graduated at Vnstur college In 1SEJ , bslng the president and valedictorian of her cltBS. She comes from an excellent family , and by reason of her bsauty , her intelligence and ability Is probably , after the empress , the most Im portant woman In Japan today. Her brother , Major General Yamalmwa , Is a fa mous soldier , and her s'sUr , Mine. Sob Yamahawa , also one of the prominent and In fluential ladles of the court , Is devoting her wealth and abilities to benevolence. She was a widow before she was 20 years old , and being n woman of great social accom plishments and psrbonal Attractions , has de clined many otters of.1 marriage. She has lived In Hu9 la and In' France , and ppeaks the language ot bclhlo those conntrita perfectly , as well as English and Ger man , Tor many ytars'i ehe has been the confidential sjcretaryof , the emprsss , nnd acts as her Interpreter during Interviews with persons ot distinction. Slid also attends the empress upon occasions 'of ceremony , and In fact Is seldom absent ! from her side. Dur ing the early days of' ' the * present regime , when modern fashions Wcre'belng Introduced at court , Mine. Yamauawa ) because of her familiarity with Euiop an manners and cus toms , was selected as n feort of Instructor In etiquette and genei-a ! manager of the ceremonies about ? He phlaco of the em press. She receives the'hlgheu salary paid to any lady of the coit"qulte ) as much as a number of the ministry , but she spends It all In charity. She supports a number of bright young ladles who 'tire ambitious to secure an education , and is always giving as sistance to worthy students at the uni versity , Although Mme. Yamaknwa adheres to the Duddhlst-Shlnto faith. In which she was born , her younger and more beautiful sister , Mme. Oyama , was converted .to Christianity by Rev , Dr. Baker when ehe was very young , and has given active and efficient aid to missionary work In Japan. She has font'lderable literary ability , and has written a good deal for native publications , as well as for periodicals In the United States and England. Mme. Oyama has also been the most active apostle of dress reform In Japan. Her Influence had much to do with the In troduction of tbo European costume for tbe ladles of the court. The effect of European clothing upon Jap- aneie women la quite remarkable , for when ever It U adopted modern manner * and cus toms usually go with It. The educated Jap anese say that when a native woman adopts modern drett the insists upon the same treat ment and courttclft that her sitters In Eu rope receive. 11 U curious fact that when a woman li dressed In the Japanese costume her huiband alwnja precedes her when enterIng - Ing a room or In walking the streets nnd ttca-s her a * Japanese huibinds generally treat their wives that l , like servant * . Hut when the same woman puts on modern drew the conditions nre rcvprwd. Her hu banl pays her the same deference thnt European and American hutbnnds show their wlve and recognizes her as an equnl. Therefor ? drcts leform has had a wonderful Influence In th advancement of Japnneee women , and those who have embriced Chrlrtlanltv and are laboring for the emancipation of their sex nre nil working quietly , zealously nnd ef fectively to promote the reform that Is going en In the home and the wardrobe , A llltlUAL M'IMJHSTITIOX. ' nirl Who Seek < t lime Sl nlt Hnlr * Stltelteil Into WeililltiK < Io ii . Ono superstition that exists nmong sewing girls nnd their associates of Paris nnd New York , sajs the Sun , Is that It the head dressmakers - makers will stitch Into wedding garments a slnglo hair from fiiev held ot each they will become brides within a very short time after the maiden v.ho wears the bridal outfit then In prcpiratlon. A young woman of experience nnd with a quick e > e for what would Interest tbo Sun's readers said to a Sun reporter the other evening : "Lot me tell you of this strange and jet pretty superitltlon which exists nmong some ot the tewing girls In Paris null New York. 1 nm more familiar with the superstition ns It exists nmong the girls of some of the bigger dry goods shops In New York City , nnd so In this in'tancel will confine my stcry to them. When the sewing girls In the different apart- mcnts and the girls behind the counters leirn that the house has received an order for a big tros eau t'.iey beslego the head dressmakers and nsk them to stitch Into the widdlng gown especially n single hair from their holds. This hair Is so fine that It Is easily concealed nnd cahnot In nnv wn > mir the beautiful wedding gown. The head dressmakers \oo often humor Kio girls. "I know positively thnt this superstition exists , nnd I know positively thnt In many wedding gowns , could they be p'cked to pieces , would bo found many hairs stitched In. The girls , when they go home nt night , tell their girl friends thnt a hnlr from their heads has been stitched Into the wedding gown of Miss So-nnd-So , and the lucky one Is immediately envied. She will be married very soon , her ns oclates say. "Many of the girls In the big shops secure bits of the wedding gowns of fashionable brides. They lake them home and treasure them up. They make collections of them , nnd they point them out to their friends. In the neighborhood , sajlng , 'Thnt was M'ss So-and-So's wedding gown , ' nnd so they go through the list. The sewing girl who pos sesses the greitcst collection of thes < blts Is n very Important young woman In the eyes of her young woman friends. She Is con sidered to be almost fashlomble herself , bs- caupe she Is so near ths throne. Dut by far the prettiest superstition that I hive jet heard of Is the ons where n single hair from so many of these fhop girls Is stitched Into these very expensive wedding gowns. " FtiNlilini Xoten. The fur boa with Its small etceteras Is again In high vogue. Hex coats of black or colored velvet or bro cade are among the winter elegancle' . Dands of satin ribbon or velvet with frills of chiffon nre used on fancy bodices. Yokes of satin covered with lace or em broidered with beads , and yokes of velvel are just as fnsblonable as ever , and thej help out wonderfully In making a small bit of material do for a waist. Fitted bodices of al , otter , chinchilla Persian lamb and dark beaver are In blph vogue this season. They are worn variously with skirts of velvet , ladles' cloth , satin , Scotcn plaid and fan6y crcpon. An extremely chic Jacket is of Egjptlan blue cloth , Its seams outlined with narrow- bands of astrakhan. The front open * over a vest of the fur. The collar Is bacomlnglj high In the back. Very pretty vasts are made of old-fashioned silk handkerchiefs with -variegated palm leaves scattered over a red ground. Thej nro first accordion-plaited nnd arranged with n slight pouch effect , and are very effect ive in n dark blue gown. As to muffs well , If expense Is no ob ject : ? , one may have a little one , made of fur , to match the short walking jacket , am a huge one of fur , or velvet or satin cdgei with fur , to match her Ions and luxurious carriage robe. Delicately spangled silver embroidery Is used In charming taste on velvet dress nnd evening bonnets In pale hues. Thus It forms a lovely border of dainty pink or mauve , the onlj other trimming consisting of a tut of sable fur from wh'ch springs a soft silvery nlerette. A now bodice trimming consists of folds of black or colored velvet for the throat waist and wrist portion of the sleeves. , fron which fallu a frill of handsome lace gatherei moderately full , ths widest frill filling from the folded girdle , forming a dressy , basque- llks effect bslow the belt. Narrow Queen Anne belts of plattd gold sterling silver , open work leather or kid with metal trimmings , ara very fashlonabl ) worn. Some of tbe gold and silver belts pro almost solid and In rals d floral designs others are In filigree- patterns , dotted will half precious stones , with oval or oblong buckles to match Not only nre immense buttons of enamel Rhine stone- , pearl and steel , Jjt and ruby etc. , used upon coats and bod'ces ' , but like wlte small French gilt , opal , and cut t'tee buttons set with tiny brilliants , cut stones In colors of emerald , sapphire , garnet , etc Th'sc are used upon slashed nnd piped bo dices , Ucd sleeves or cuiTa , nnd fancy Jacket'j and blouses or Russian waists. Dy all odds the moat popular vestment o the season is the sack coat In chinchilla or rough cloth , coming barely to the hips , and for the very good reaoan that.lt Is not Im moderately expensive. A better reason com mend j It. Lew short as It Is , It weighs enough for a woman to carry. The long wraps that we se ? , with their freighted ar- go&les ot fur and their silken luxuries of llnlngi' , are a load for Sandow. Plalded silk and satin ribbons are brought out thlu season representing every clan , ani thcbo are used prodigiously , botli In millin ery nnd for brlghten'ng- ' dark or neutral house ureross nnd wains , some or the newest tar tans show a rich and beautiful shade of Rus sian Napoleon , or peacock blue , mixed with aigber brown , chamois color , geranium red , and eometlmea with certain shades of olive and old rose. These plalls are particularly becoming to women of neutral typo. Dadlces are cut longer In the waist and absolutely tight fitting In the back. On Eome of the new tailor made "dress" costumes arc pointed cuirass bodices , with an adjusted yoke of velvet laid on over the shouldero , Its deep Vandyke points falling over tbo uleeve puffs , with a deeper point In the Immediate back. Directly In front the yoke extends Into a wide flat pleat that reaches to the waist. This entire adjustable piece Is edged with a rich quality of lace about three Inches wide , and the collar lu finished with turn down velvet points similarly edged. This yoke Is alro made of Dresden t'lllc. A new neck frill purposely designed for a Christmas gift Is n creation of black chif fen , black oatrlch feather trimming and bright little bunches of holly berries and leaves. The chiffon lu arranged In a full ruclio edged with toft feathers , while the gay lit tle clusters of holly are caught here and there among the folds. In the front there are two long ends of the chiffon accordion- plaited and finished with a curly black tea ther trimming. The ends reach below the waist line and the whole neck frill U ex tremely effective. Velvet flowers are very elegantly and ef fectively used upon drees bonnets and hats for culling , receptions and theater and opera vear , On green velvet bonnet ? , for Instance , two colors are used a rich nasturtium shade and a deep Spanish yellow narc'ssua with a golden-brown heart or on a violet velvet hat wo eee a cluster of shaded chrysanthe mums and a velvet rote-geranium bloom. Entire capots are made of superbly colored autumn leaves laid over brown , green or plum-colored foundations , and while velvet and white chenille drets bonnets are en circled with this lovely foliage , with soft aigrettes ret Into an artistic bunch of tbe same leaves. The chatelaine bag Is ee n In a variety of new deigns for the holidays. It makes a Christina * present for maid or matron not to be denplncd. In the leather bags those nadcof elephant's hide are the newest , They are > mounted In gold , which combines well with the delicate brown ot the leather. Tbe most expensive ar ornamented with tbe owner's monogrim In gold The uncut A lvtl biRs mou'.tr 1 In Rold , combined with en ameHIng , nr * wonderfully b-niitlfnl. Oreen l the favorite color , and the mounting * Miow deep reds and dull blue mingled with the gold. With these biR ? there nre told narrow , uncut velvet bclt , studded with Mirl-colored JiMvcls. feminine INolrx. Mrs Gladtfone I" n very fills' organist nnd still plajs occixslonnlly at chnpcl worship. A newcomer In the pulpit Is Rev. Ellen A. Copp of HUMdnle , Mich , In addition to hei theological nttnlnmont * she Is nlso a graduate In folcnco * nd colliglatc learning MUs Agnes F. Watson of Plttsburg , Pa. , has been admitted to the bir ntlcr n very honorable eximlnitlon. She Is the flr t woman who has achieved her position In that part of the Kc.vslone state. It Is said thnt 25000 copies of Marie Cor- clll's new book , "Tho Sorrows of Satan. " were sold before the book was published. Mlii Corelll cnjoji the ropntntlon of being a favorite author of Ouesn Victoria. When Mrs. Leland Stanford wai Miss Lithrop she was n great favorite In Albany , where she resided. Her father kept n big stofe , nnd lie gave hli > clever ilauqliler the best advantages that wcro obtainable In those dijs. dijs.U U Is said thnt Otlldi leads a most retired llf ? nt her handsome \llli near Vallobtiln , Itnly. She receives no guests nnd U fond ot walking about the country where she live- ! . Her co'npinloni' upon these walks are a half dozen dogs. Mrs. Charles Dina Gibson Is n southern beiuty with a stately figure , easy carriage , blue eyes , brilliant color and golden halt. She Is not square shouldered , nelthct has she n broad , low brow. She Is n lot prettier than Mr. Olbtfon't' paper women. Miss Edith OUcy Is a successful veterlnarj surgeon nt Sandoval.O. She wns griduited from the Veterinary college nt Toronto , Cm- ada , nnd was the first woman to obtain a dl- plomi In thnt Institution. She makes the fifth of her profession In tbe United States. The women of Lexington , Ky , had the op portunity to vote for the first time nt the recent school elections. Thcj signalized the occasion by breaking up a corrupt ring which had long governed the ichools and by electing an entire reform ticket of four men nnd four ivomen. The women on the ticket inn far ahead of their colleagues. Mrs. Wette , Hmnperdlnck's slater , wrote the libretto for hie "Hansel and Gretel , " and thcro Is truly a brotherly and slrtcrly spirit of mutual plajfulne 3 In the "gingerbread opera , " ns the foreign papers call it. U Is the "tiMcer childishness" of the whole thing which delights nnd meets Inlf way the "grow up childishness In us nil , " according to one New York critic. Miss Loult-o Stockton Is well known In lit- cr.iry circles , not only because rhu Is the sister ot "Rudder Grange's" author , but for her own work In current periodicals. Among her Intimate friends Miss Stockton Is always called "Lulu , " and is admired with a sort of wonder by these who remember her delicate health In girlhood and sec what s'ho has been enabled to accomplish since then. Her first essay In the field of literature was In the form ot a tract. Miss Louise Imogenc Gulney , the poetess , Is described by Mrs. Moulton as "a llghj blue-PS eel girl , delicate as a wild rose , elusive ao thistledown. " Mlra Wllklns Is a great nd mlrer of Miss Gulney , counting her and Miss Alice Drown as the most talented and prom ising of the New England poets. M'sa Gulney has both Irish and French blood In her veins , the former showing its pathos and wit 'n ' the familiar Irish peasunt song which Wil liam Black has paid the trlbuto of quoting In "Highland Cousins. " Societies for the higher culture of women are not only growing dally more numerous in St. Petersburg , but they are rapidly spreading throughout Russia , nnd the- Im portance of tha movement can hardly bo overestimated. The sudden Impetus Is duo to the Influence of the young impress , who Is known to have the welfare of her female etbjects Intensely nt heart. It Is her Im perial majesty's conviction thnt most , If not all , the great reforms which have taken placeIn the world havs been brought about , if only Indirectly , by women's opinions and persuasions. Till } DOCTOR'S ADV1CI3. Ilitftnlo Mv faro Im ? nt.tf oily pjfftrnne l\lmll > clvo im < Komo n nicrir , Two liMiipoonfitla of our Nntrollthlo lH , liefoio bronkfnst. for avvook. N. ! . , Ho ton. Use C'orobrlno fornor * r T Y llliiffhimtitoii Have l > ion nimoirj for ovi r .1 voir wtili 1 117:1 i > lmnlc on my IncK. Can ouii "iitfv'ist n i n re1 Ttiko our ThjioliHnc , o.vtr.iet of the thyroid jjlnwli tliico tltnc < i dully. Twlco luu'li week Xatroilthlc Snlts. O. M. , Trunton. No ; jes. Tnko out * Oastfluo , n temjiooufnl uitor onch meal. Voti will trot bettor at mmo. Wllllim , NnkliptVlnt IH crootl for n co.Koil toninu'i nlvo i romcuy to K tin fl < Mit Take our" Null ollthic Salt * nnd Gr 3- tnno Tun DOCTOR The nbov c iirrpir.itlons ami otlu r KjicclnHIrs of the Columbia Chcmlcnl Co t Wnstiltiuloti , IX C. , liicUulliic the fmmnn ANIMAL KXTKACrS. ntul NATWlITIItC ) SALTS. At Ml DnicKlMR. ( ! : ul ) T nil for Literature Suit ) b > liuliti A. Co , loth unit Douclan. on clsocitst ! occtssionsi lYbu cannot go Ho 1he opercs ! \virhou1" whiff of RowH PURILBiMLEA THE PASHIOhABLE PERFUME. Flowery , refreshing , For sale by drogqista only. IMPERIAL CROWN PERFUMERY CO , SAINT LOUIS. * MEYER BROTHERS DRUG CO..AGENT3 /WEDDIhG BEU Two new \PEACH \ BLOW , j odors. * Old-Fashloncd c ? S Buckwheat. Taitej like Buckwheat because It U Buckwheat Wrlcht'c Mills , Derlln , Wlf. OPIUMQR MORPHINE HABIT vi v PII pinrtEssLT t tssnuanstir WEED DR. S. B. COLL.I IMS- PAINLESS OPIUM ANTIDOTE ORIGINAL AND ONLY GENUINE REMEDY. Discovered in 1868. "THERIAKI"Book Frea. OIlco3I2.78 ( Monroe Street , ruin Ann III r g Dn wiR 53 l/nlUAuU , ILL ? > .v co.nrouriD . . . . . . . Alwujarclliblo. T lc nosubstltute. f-orsalcbyalhlrucclsti 12.00 Rend Ac. for Homan'i fxifrguanl WII COX SPKCIFJO CO.IMbOUTIl EIUHTIl ijl'ilIIADA..PA. . TRADE MARK JUST'THE THING ron A Christmas Present Any lady will appreciate such a useful and beautiful gift as our 'ScovilFs < p Gold" irv f * t * T"fc Puff Box AKD A BOX or PozzonFs Celebrated Complexion Powder Pozzonl's la the Ideal Complexion Powder beautifying , refreshing , cleanly , healthful and harmless Both at jour dnicclsta or fancy Roods dealers 30o or mnilrcl on receipt of price. Address J. A. I'OZZOM I IIAUUACAJ < CO. , M. I.oulN , Mo. A New View of Life. t It is surprising how often the t troubles of this life spring from in A digestion. And more surprising A how few people know it. You say , 'I'm blue , " or "my head feels queer , " or "I can't sleep"or "Everything frets me. " Nine times in ten indigestion is at the bottom of all your miseries , and a box of Ripan's Tabules would give you a new view of life. T nipan'i Tatniltt Bold by drurcliu , or by mall If Hit price ( W cents a boi ) In tent to the III. ( > ni Chemical Company , No , IB h/-uc it. , N. Y. T The Tobacco used In this Cigar Is the best we can buy in Cuba. The Mercantile U equal to any that are Imported. See that the word MGRCANTIU9 U BtumpeU on each cigar. F. R. Rice Mercantile Cigar Co , , St. Louis.