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About The McCook tribune. (McCook, Neb.) 1886-1936 | View Entire Issue (Dec. 3, 1885)
sns KISSED Slio kissed nie , my beautiful darling , I drank the delight of licr lirs ; Tlie universe incited together , Mortality btood in oclijjse. * A spirit of light stood before me , I heard a far rustle of wings ; The kinss of the earth were as beggars , And the beggars of car6h were as kings RICHARD REALF. MUTEST AM ) MUPJ Man's Extremity AmidVind and Wave American Hural Home. We were becalmed in mid-Pacific The sails swelled no more than if they had been molten sheets in the tropical sunshine. Yet there was something strange about thesea.for it was rough We had been making good time the day before and I concluded we must have come into a region over which some storm had passed. It was the dry season , too , and I could not ac count for it. But a man finds a good many things on the high seas that he can't readily account for , however scientific he may pretend to land-lub bers to be. When a man loves the sea , the deck of a ship is more to him than a palace , and the salt air and the heaving waves , life itself. But there are times when he would give something to have the solid earth to step upon , not in a storm , there he stands to his colors and trusts in Him who can say to the waves : "Peace , be still. " But there are uglier things at sea than storms , things that rise up out of a seeming calm. These compared , with storms seem to me like the Atlantic and the Pacific Oceans one stormy and fierce , the other tranquil for days together , but with a terrible element brewing in this stillnes. There was on the deck of my good ship , "Vestigia , " an atmosphere more oppressive than the tropic heat with the storm brooding in its heart. Like every sailor , I had faced the thought of shipwreck. But this dreadful/in visible something hanging over me was different , was a horror undreamed of , unendurable. Yet how could I tell that the dread of danger to my wife and baby boy who were with me . had not conjured up a phantasy ? I tried vainly to tell myself that there was really nothing ; there was something , intangible , shapeless , horri ble , palpable at least tothosefine per ceptions which transcend the senses and often forerun them. I had not an enemy in the world , yes , possibly one , . butifsoa , man whom I had never seen , though I had cut sharply across his plans and purposes without being re sponsible. He was the nephew of my mother's uncle , his wife's nephew. He had been brought up with the old gen tleman and expected to inherit the greater part of his property. But my uncle had left it all to me. Pierce Ar- mitage trusted too much to the fact that my uncle disliked my father. Ar- mitage was wild and lawless and when the money came to me , I was glad to be out of reach of his vindictiveness. I would have righted him if he had been dealt with unfairly , but he had been repeatedly warned by my uncle. What was this old story , however , to me in mid-Pacific ? Yefc , for all my endeav ors , the shadow grew nearer. One day as I sat on deck with my wife under an awning , she whispered to me suddenly : "I don't like that man. " I looked up. The first mate was going by. All in an instant my dread took form. This mate , Griggs , had been in the "Vestigia" when I was transferred to command of her. My own mate had been promoted , and Griggs was highly recommended by the ship's owners , but , as the saying is , I had never "cottoned" to him. I had struggled ayainsfc my prejudice , now I under stood it. As I sat there something happened to confirm my dread. My little boy in his play ran across Griggs' path. The mate swerved aside and passed on , and then I saw him cast at the child a look so ven omous that it was with great difficulty I restrained from snatching up my boy in my arms. At last I was awaks , and I saw that 1 should not have had instincts , or that they should havo guided me sooner. It was too late. Some of the men had sailed in the "Vestigia" be fore , others were of Griggs' own choos ing. They were a motley crew , Irish , Swedes , Italians chiefly , good sailors , but men I did not trust , scarcely a Yankee among them. Of late tliey had obeyed me sulkily , and now that my eyes were opened , I recollected how much Griggs had gone among them on some plea , had flattered one , had relieved another from some oner ous , task , done a favor to a third , and so on. I recalled significent looks nnd whispers , and 1 saw that the crew were in the hands of my first mate , and that he meant mischief. I looked at Mary and my boy. To whom could I turn ? I glanced at the second mate , but just then I saw Griggs in passing him thrust a bit of paper into his hand , and a few minutes after I saw this second mate as he stood talking to the man at the wheel give the paper a toss from him into the sea. Instead , it fell against the railing of the ship and caught there uncertainly. I began with my boy a game of ball such as we often played on shipboard , when the unexpected directions of the ball were a great amusenient to the child. To-day after taking different directions , I suddenly rolled the ball close to the paper , and told him in a low tone to bring both balls , the paper nnd the rubber one. He obeyed , laughing , and I read secretly : "When the watch changes. Have tho men armed and ready. Better dis patch Keefe with the captain , he will in.ako trouble. I'll look after the wom en and thtt boy. " I had , then , an hour oflife , and he would look .after my wife and boy. tie ! I looked at them. I would fight to tho last. With a silent prayar I sent for Keefe in my cabin. ti a few moments we stood looking into one another's faces like doomed men. "Is there nobody among them all wetcan trust ? ' ' I asked. "Not infernal rascal " he an , answer ed. "But one thing , Captain , we'd better begin. " He was right , for then we should die like jnen instead of rats. I armed Keefe to the teeth. "Let them see you leave , " I said. "Then come back here and conceal yourself. " I wrote some letters , took a packet from my strong-box , went upon deck again , gave the packet to my wife , and drawing her toward me , kissed her passionately. "Keep life and courage for our boy's sake , whatever comes , " I said , and took my baby in my arms ; his soft grasp nerved me like the touch of steel. I looked about me like one who looks his last. Still the same calm and the same unaccountable movement of the water , only that it seemed to have increased. I went below , and on some pretense sent for Griggs. He came , but at the first glance at my face , drew back. Too late. The door was double locked , and my pistol at his temple. "Mutiny andmurder , " I said to him. "How long do you deserve to live ? What is it for ? " He answered me by a name : "Pierce Armitage. " Then , appeal would be useless. "Shoot ! " he said defiantly. "I shall be avenged. I've breathed hell into your crew. Heaven itself can't save you. " I shuddered ! "Whatever comes , I deny your blasphemy. " I said. At a signal Keefe sprang out. Griggs , or Armitage , was ironed , gagged , and laid upon the cabin floor. Then , double locking the cabin door behind us , we went upon the deck. There I called the crew together. 'My men , " I said , "what fault have you to find with your captain ? " They looked at me , and at one another. "We have spoken none , " answered an Italian in his soft broken English. "Not to me , " I answered , "but worse than that , amonz yourselves and to my mate. You should have come to mo with your grievances. I am here now to remedy them if you will tell me what they arc. How is it with you , Gustave Doneldorf ? " I ask- ed.a stalwart Swede , whom a mo ment before 1 had seen " on my lefb hand , ho had disap peared , and another boon companion with him. I was startled. But the keys of my cabin were safe in my pock et and I went on talking to the men , hoping to pass the fatal hour and to gain at least some adherents. Some of the men listened to me , but all were evidently in expectation of the leader , who could not come. I saw and heard every thing , and noticed that the waves were higher. I talked on , and the men stood more in bewilderment than at tention. "What was to have been my death hour was beginning to go by , and no blow had been struck. In spite of loAverinqglaneesIhadbeguntohope , when suddenly I saw Gustave Donel dorf and his companion in theirplaces again , and in another moment there sounded rushing footsteps , and Armi tage sprang upon deck , pistol in hand rushed up to the sailors , and began in English and snatches of their own tongue to berate them for cowardice. Why he did not kill me instantly , I can't tell ; perhaps he meant to feed ne first with horror , being sure of me , ! or the men responded to him like a trigger to the hands that pulls it. My boy ran to me. "Shoot the brat first , " shouted Armitage. I took aim at him and ired , but my ball went wide its mark. Tor the ship at the instant rose upon a great wave , and as she plunged downward there was a cry from many throats. I turned. A mountain of vater was upon us. "Ileef sail ! Downhatches ! " Ishout- ed , as at a look from me Keefe snatched my wife and child toward he cabin. In the common danger the mutineers forgot themselves in being ailors , and asiflifehung on my words , my orders were executed with magic peed. It was none too soon. The cabin door was barely closed when ; he frightful wave was upon us. We lirew ourselves upon the deck , faces lownward , and hands grasping at vhatever gave any promise 'of hold- ng firm. All but Griags , who thrust one arm through a coil of rope about ; he mast , and stood , pistol in hand , eady for fatal aim at me'should there De an instant of stillness. He had re- olved that in any case I should not escape him. Our last glance showed his before the ship Seemed to rise erect upon her "stern , to poise herself u mid-air , and to plunge down un- athomable depths. A raging cataract swept over us , it roared in our ears , drenched and deafened us , beat us against the deck , and almost swept us from the supports to which we clung. The vessel shook like a leaf in the whirlwind , staggered and plunged until I thought she was going straight ; o the bottom. Then as the deluge rolled off from the deck and we sprang ; o our feet , I saw an awe-struck look on the faces of the sailors , and follow- ng their glances , perceived that Arm- tage's place was vacant. Had Heaven interfered in my behalf ? low could I dare to say so ? All that ' . can affirm is that at the moment of my extremity a tidal wave on its way across the ocean had swept my first niate into the sea. The sailors , how ever , had no doubt. To their super- stiti ons Heavenhad fought for me , and they respected me accordingly. "It is a strange story , " said the cap tain as he finished , "but if you want something rational and probablejust get somebody to make it up for you. " The Severn tunnel in England , four miles and a half long , has just been opened. The distance was made by ive carriages in IS minutes. It can scarcely bewailed one of the great tun nels. These are Mount Cenis , other wise Frejus , about eight miles long , which took fourteen years to make ; 5t. Gothard , nine miles long , which took eight years to make ; and the re cently finished ( September , 1884) ) Arl- mrg , about six miles long , which took only two years to make. T Another Sermon. Tbo Salvation Army has been Hold ing forth in Aurora for flio past week , more or loss , as tbo case may be. It is not definitely settled how many .souls tho army has thus farsn.atcheil ; irom tbe burning , but it is certain ibat their emotional stylo of presenting1 tbo causo has incited somo of the hearers to got up and paw tho air , and , act as though they had been eating green fruit. fruit.We We do not wish to cast any reflec tion on religion , but we do not think this vehement kind , is double souled , and with a row of nails on the'out side of tho hool. That is , wo do not think it wears well. The kind of con version that is tho result of sober re flection and reasoning is that which all can respect and approve of. And those who experience it by a process of logical thought will stick , and set ' examples tbat will do good to the' cause . People of this kind are those who help to build up tho churches , aud who show that religion can enter their every day life and prove service able. That is tho kind of a Christian we wish to be. Wo know wo are a sinner of no moan dimensions , but we cannot be converted by the exclamatory utter ances of a gang of young girls and "Hip" boys , who sing bad rhymes sot to plantation melodies , and who stand up'beforo those who are looking for tho light and make tho cause appear ridiculous. Of course , this kind of a thing takes with some. Old man What's-his- namo and Sister So-and-so , who aro , always on tho front seat when thoro is a chance .to take a hand m anything' of an emotional character , wiirgotup and prance about , , and shout at the , top of their lungs. But they cool down as soon as the meetings are over , and forgot all about them. They are no better for their rantings. It is not religion they have. They get too much stoam in their boilers , and such affairs give them a chance to blow off. We can remember the old-fashioned revivals we used to havo in the little ; ciiurch way down East. Every win ter somo sensational exhortcr would appear and tho town would turn out , and whoop and howl , and be saved. Bill Johnson and Tom Copp , Sarah Jones and Kate Ketohum , and all tho rest of them , would ro forward and kneel at the bench. They would near ly scare the life out of tho children by their contortions and wild hoots. They thought they wore saved , and the whole "town rejoiced. After tho mooting was through , and the smell of brimstone was cleared aws } ' , Bill Johnson anil Tom Copp continued to hang about tho bar-room , and swear and lijjht as of yore , and Sarah Jones aud Kato Ketchum went to dances , and made food for talk at the quilting bees , and all the rest of the converted proceeded to bacic-stlide , wihout put ting on any brakes , or improving spir itually. The intention of tho Salvation Army- is , of course , gotxl and proper , but tho kind of religious intoxication which they deal out dissipates tho subject , aud loaves him with a swol len head and red 03 cs , and tho con viction that ho has boon living on a wind pudding that has not nourished his soul or improved his ways. If 3ron feel that you arc a sinner , and want to become a genuine Christian , go and listen to reason aud sound ar ' gument ; improve in your onc-of- church , week-day life ; do not do these little wrong and dishonest things , which passion and avarice may dio- ' tatc ; bo charitable , honest and hu mane ; join the ranks of those who : ip- , pear to havo an earnest and enduring' purpose for good ; believe what 3'our reason will assist you in believing ; try to point out the fight way to others , and you will roach salvation by as sure a route as that denoted by the Salvation Army. You may bo a tritle " longer on tbo"way , but you will be fully as sure to got thci'o. You will also ieel that you have worked your , passage , instead of trying io bluil 3Tour way with a w.ind solo , Aurora John Henry iu Disgrace. "You , John Henry , " said a ILilstod street woman to her belated spouse , 'where have you been , and what have voti been doing ? " " ' . " "BoRti bavin' time. "Been having a time ! Didn't you cuo\v that I wat > hero alone ? What's to prevent btirirlars from breaking in to tho bouse anil carrying off ovory- hiug we've got , and not a man on the ) remises ? Been having a time , eh ? You'll have another time right hero if rott don't take to getting homo ear- ier. Now you go around aud sec if the bouse is properly locked up , and don't bo all ni ht where are you go ng , John Henry ? " "Goin' to lock up housb up. m' dear. " "Don't you leavq this room , John ilenryHow do I know but there's a jurglar under tbis bed right now ? If vou wouldn't bo carousing around at all lours of tbe night and cominsr home drunk you might have these matters attended to before now. Wbat are rou standing there for ? Why don't " rou go and see if tbo house is"locked up ? " " 1 can't be in two plaishes at onsb , m' dear. If theresb burglar under ) ed no ushn to lock liousli. It housb ocked no usbe fur burglar under bed. Shoe ? " "That's just like a drunken idiot. Jook under the bed first , and tbcu at- ; end to the rest of the bouse. " John Henry crawled under tho boil and found a cat , which , be caught * by , bo posterior elongation , or words to tbat eflect. To this tbe cat set up : i demurrer , and proceeded to show causo why tbo same should bo sus- ainerl , which so frightened Mrs. John Ilenry that she sprang out of bod just is Jolm Henry backed out from under t , anil in bis effort to rise be threw her igainst tbe wasb stand , upsetting it anil smashing tno pitcher. She screamed , ho swore and tho cat squalled , and now tbo neighbors say bat John Henry ought to bo put in ail for tbe manner invliich bo abuses lis wife , and her a timid little tbing , ; oo. GoodalVs Daily Sun. A Nevada rancher snnrcd two hundred rabits in ten dnys without sensibly dlmluish- ithe hordes that ravage his farm. A STUDY HT COSTUMES , Jennie June Expresses Her Opinion About Modern "Fashion" And Gives Some Ideas of Art as Applied to Dress. The Oashmere , Greek , Ancient Greek and Graduate Costumes as Applied to the Art of Dressing To-day. Special Correspondence. NETT Tons , November 1L The faults in dress and the absence of that freedom and diversity necessary to the develop ment and cultivation of taste seem to arise principally from the acceptance by women of incompetent authorities and the failure to apply to dress the sense and Intelligence usually brought to bear on other subjects. It has become a sort of axiom tiat deviation from "fashion" whatever that may happen at the moment to be must be ugly and un becoming , and beautiful dress , like healthful food , wholesome perhaps , but not in the least agreeable. It does not seem to strike the de vout worshipper of "novelties" and "latest ideas" that increased change cannot always be in the right direction , or that the "style , " which merely represents the trick of the mo ment , can have no necessary or true relation to personal elegance and good taste. Both the merits and defects of our mode of dressing are more conspicuous in this country than in others , because the lollowera of fashion are more numerous , more money to spend upon dress , and the distribution of prevailing ideas more general. It is not means or resources that are lacking , simply knowledge of princ.- ples , and this Is an acquisition which takes time and implies an education in art. Ignor ance of truth in regard to dress is asblisstul as in respect to other things. While a woman is declared to be "exquisitely" dressed who wears a hcterogenous assortment of colors and "unrelated" forms , ihat woman will be satisfied witn herself and her methods. Forms heretofore had nothing to do witli fashion. The increase and decrease of artificial humps and excrescences the shoitenlug and length ening of skirts , sleeves and bodices the drawing in or inflation , have all been con ducted on purely arbitrary principles without any reference to truth in art or nature. The imbecility of it all. looked at from an abstract point of view , is more tlian funny , it is pitia ble. Why a woman sensib'e on all other points should ask anxiously if she must wear a "bustle" or do any oilier one of the dozen things that f.ishi > n o'dains to day that it did not ordain yesterday , would be mcred We if it were not common. The false standard set up leads emy one astrny. If u gown is in the reigning mode it is "stylish , " if it is of costlv material it is "beautiful" or "elegant , " and the wearer is "magnificently" dressed , not common. But thenTis hope for the future. American women are teginning to study form , and when they have once discovered the secret of true beautv and grace they will be quick to apply it. Heretofore , HUe arithmetic learned at school , they did not think of apply ing art to everyday life , but even lessons are taking jrait'cal shapes and the latest studio Idea , tliat of the "cosiumecljss , " will perhaj'B ' suggest the Jine npon which improvement must begin that of nature , not caricature. CASHMERE COSTUME. Here is a study of a walking costume In cash- men ; which is very simple , \ et very charming , almost perfect in its grace of outline and free dom from all co ivent onal restraints such as pads , tie-backs , steel bars ami other eucum- branics. It is a copv of one of Liberty's wn- lcr-col ( r'designs , and is made in two shades of Umritza cashmere , or any other soft , self-col ored all wool material. Brown and ecru two shades of gr.iy , currant red und dark gn-en or garnet and fawn go well together. The red in tither case , the drown and the darker of the ur.iys l-eimr used for ihe skirt , which should be laid in fine knife plaits. The overdress is smock-shaped , but rather narrow , ths f ulncss , what there is of it , which is only just enouzh for ease over the enlarged portion of the body , being gathered into the honey-combed shirring at the throat , and more slightly pulled in at the waist , under the soft sash , which holds it without any gathering string and admits of its being drawn up to the Je t side , where it opens nnd falls in a series of draped folds. The on ly shaping is under the arms. The armholes are Jelt nearly straight , so that the arms move With case and freedom and give abundant space to the sleeves , which ar a modification of the -leg-of-mutton" and may be tacked here and there to an inner lining or to tapes attached to the inside of the lower part of the arm and to the top of the boulder. The shap ing of the lower part of the sleeve can be seen bv the position of the left arm , which is turn- ei so that the hand touches the bodice. The hat matches exactly the upper part of the dress , the bunch of feathers the tint of the skirt GBEEE COSTUMB. This costume Is tho adaption made from the pure Greek dress bv Mrs. Emily PfTclfe , the author of the "Lady of the Rock , " "Fly ing Leaves , " &c. , nnd a well known figure in London literary and artistic society. The pe culiar and very graceful style of costume she has adapted to all her needs , and some years ago illustrated in a series of articles in a Lon don periodical. Last year Mrs. Pffeifcr with her husband , also and author and a musician of abllitv , though an ameteur , visited this country , " and many will recall the tall , grace ful flgura in its lovely drapery of white and cold or pale yellow with embroidery of Pompeian red , or the quieter olives wrought in leaf tints , which characterized her everyday attire. There was nothing so absolutely differ ent in this dresss as to attract attention ; It was only conspicuous from its soft flowing lines and the absence of the usual humps and high contrasts. Theunderdress of this costume is an abso lutely plain , straight morning gown , which may have an upright tucked bodice ( the tucks very fine ) if the wearer is thin , but is other wise ehaped under tho arm and gathered into the belt , or it may be cut all in one and a belt arranged simply to mark the line of the waist. The drapery needs no cutting , it may be ar ranged irom a shawl or s. square of any soft , double-width material , nun's veiling , "cheese cloth , fine wool , silk or lace. The embroidery is easily and quickly done in outline stitch in one or two colors or two shades ofth'e same color , but it is better to use only one color , unless two colors or two shades can be so judiciously used as toproJuce a good result , and this can be attained by knowledge and ex perience only not by direction through a med ium so liable to misconstruction as words. It should be understood from the beg'nuiug th t all colors used in art costumes are soft nnd possess depth rather than surface color , so that thev adapt themselves readily one to an other. The original of the Greek dress .was made In Tussore silk , in its well known deli cate ecru or stone-colored tint ; and the em broidery In flame color , which has a lambent quality , not in the least like the brick red , which Is often called by its name. The corners of the drapery are united together on the shoulders with clasps of Inwrought stone , or metal , and the rustlings are of the silk , feath ered upon the edge , or of embroidered lace. ANCIENT GREEK COSTUME The design from the ancient Greek , it will be seen , is a modification and combination of of the other two , with features of its own that are different from either. The foundation dress is very much the same as in Mrs. PfTe 1- er's Greek gown , except that being made in print and for ordinary use the sleeves are cut to the wrist. The overdress is hollouel a little at the neck , front and back , but other wise slathered in at the w.iist ( only with more fulness ) exactly like the "Cashmere Costume" excepting that the drapery is lifted some what to the right of the opening and held by the clasp at the belt. The body part is a'so cut in more to the arm , the sleeves being less full and requiring less space. The material of the overdress is what is known in London aa Arabian cotton. It has a natura ly crinkled or crepy surfacs , irregularly ridged and falling in very close and graceful folds. It was used by Miss Anderson Jorher Galatea dress , de signed by a London artist , and j-rored more amenable to artistic riquiruments than the China crepe at § 10 per yard which she Had previously employed flit ; skirt of the under- dress may be gathered or pl-atcd , ( understand pleated not plaited ) , for plait was formerly only used in the sense of braiding or weaving together , and Is not properly applied to straight folds ; but gathering in more suitable for figured prints , such as that of which this skirt'is nude , as .t does not conceal any part ol the pattern and is more easily laundrfeu. These costumes are all that would be called esthetic , yet they are beautiful , graceful , sim ple , convenient , and easily adapted to different uses. They are also , especially the cashmere costume , so nearly likr > the modes of to-day that with proper treatment , they could be worn as they are , and have been , without exciting unusual attention. But one of the reasons why this can be done is because conventional fashion , while sneering , reviling ana ridiculing the aesthetic idea , has stolen its thunder and incorporated itin , fragments and without unity , into its changing and capric ous repertoire of the modes. It has done this in self-defence and because it w.is demanded. Ideas are scarce in a conventional atmosphere , and the aesthetics had an idea to begin with several of them and they dressed themselves to the taste and common sense of thinking , intelligent women. The extravagances of unt.iinkingaud senseless followers who endeavor to grain notoriety by exaggeration undoubtedly disgusted them , but underlying all this they could not but discover an adaptability to lovely forms and simple ma terials , which wa < better than mere cost , so Ions the test of taste and elegance , and a sin cerity which is an essential element of morality In dress as well as in the qualities of mind and heart. Thus , whatever may be said of it , it will be found eventually that the so-c.dleJ aesthetic element Is the truest and most im portant contribution made to the ethics of dress in this generation , and the one that will exercise the most decisive influence upon the future. PRINCESS OF WALES IX CAP AXD GOWX. The eagerness with which a new idea is seized if it comes from an authorltive source 13 seen In the effort to utilize this sensation created by the appearance of the Princess ol Wales in the dress of the uraduates upon whom a degree is conferred at the College ol Music in Dublin. Upon the occasion of tha visit of her Royal Highness In honorary de gree was conferred upon her and she was form ally invested In the cap and gown , whici > 5l _ _ _ _ proved very becoming , for though no longer " > very young and strikingly bcautliul , she pos- - * sesscsses aa interesting and expressive face , - * which retains its charms and even gains some- * * - thing with increasing age Irom tbe exercise of - g , . a lovely disposition. * ; The gown and cap aro practically th-5 same t-/ as those worn at Oxford , and the formal In- - V vestment of the Princess of Wales , her will ingness to wear the costume as a sign of her fellowship with the body , settled lorever the mooted question of propriety , so far as women graduates a'e concerned , and made theLcap and gown the badge of student graduatdawithout reference to sex. t' The gown that is usually worn Is Slack. In this instance it was of red satin damask , linejl , } with satin and faced with velvet. Above the * straight high collar are three folds of soft crepe de chine and the pin Is a diamond lyre w tb fine , twisted gold strings. The cap is "mortar-board " and has * commonly called the - , been the subject of campoons Innumerable , ; but It Is suddenly discovered to be very strikv Ing and plcturesiue , nnd English milliners are. employing it or a modification of it extensive ly for misses and lit le girls. The "gown" Is in effect the "surplice" of the Church of Eng land. Its feature Is the high-set , rather full flowing sleeve the top of wbleh almost joins the collar and the seam of which Is on the outside , where it I * made slightly full as weir as wide and flowing instead of under the arms. The rest of it is simply a long , straight sacquo shaped under the arms , on the shoulder * , and with a gathering or Wutteau pleat in the bick , wh'ch flows out"from the figure and it is noc fastened down. A word here may not be out of place in regard to tho adoption ot the En glish word "gown , " instead ot "diess , " as commonly used iu this country. Like much other adopted phraseology , it is both well-used and miss-used. It Is a great mistake to sup pose that ills used by all of those , who do use It "simplv because it i English , don't you knowl" It has the positive merit of correct ness aud good usaue to justify it. Whan a "dress" is made all In one piece from neck to feet it is a "gown ; " formerly , when cut at the waist , it was a "frock. " It Is wrestling dress from Its original meaning , which was generic and inclusive , to limit it to the upper garment which completes a woman's dress. The mod ern dress vocabulary < ontains French words which have become naturalized. "Why not "English , " wh ch is our mother tongue ! We use costume and toilet without a sneer and without ref'-rring to when ; they cam from. Why not gown , which is needed to designate the long garment for which we have no name except the Incorrect aud inexpressive one of dress1 It would be a real advantage to the public , indsave much con'us'um as well as eternal it- jralion and explanations , If the proper word louldbe appied to the thing in woman's dress as in garments worn by men for ex ample. We tcok tha word toVette ( twi-let ) from the French , and now we ca'.l it indiscrim inately , toilette , or toilet. . This hiit word is not proper'y qmployed , it is forced from its correct usaac when it is made to mean only a pirt of itself. A French-woman will speak of nnkingher toilet for the evening , but she uses the word in its generic sense , her toili-tte , forming part of her toilet ; and so well is this understood outside of fashions and fashion n-ritiug that the article of furniture in a lady's dressing room which contains the toilet acces sories and appurtenances is known as the "to let" table or "toilet" bureau. It is getting to be pretty well understood now that 'ccos- tume" means all the outside parts of a walking Dntfit composed of a combina IDU of materials ; ivhile a "suit" me.ins the same composed .of one material. Suit and costume arc more or less "complete" as they are made to Include jacket , bonnet , muff or the r tiquivalents. Children are much more naturally , as well as more beautifully , dressed now than of late years , or any time since they were mnde the copies in miniature of the follies of their eld- srs. This change we owe partly to the wider distribution of knowledge ot physiological1 ' law , partly to the advance all alonjj fhe line' of practical ethics , and partly to the modern art and aesthetic clement as applied to the dress of chi dren as well as women. A cos- r GIRLS COSTC3IE. tume in two shades , or ttvo colors , of casb- mere for a girl is copied from one of Libertv's designs , and is ad.ipteil to a girl of from four teen to sixteen that difficult age to deal with , when girls approach the woman without havme parted from the child. The design consist of a square-cut , sleeveless turiicshaped in to the want and drawn up to the left side in natural folds over the skirt of the frocJc , which may be plain , tucked , or trimmd with rows of velvet. The shirring at the throat and upon the sleeves is done in honeycomb pattern , with Kensington wool , in Kensington stitch , or the ordinary shirring may be over laid with herring bone stitch in woot , in a different shade , or a contrasting coor. In this case the design may be rendered more com plete by trimming the skirt with five rows of velvet , spaced between , and put on with her ring bone stitch in wool upon the upper and lower edges. For younger gir.s , say of ten and twelve vears , an adaptation has been made of the carters' "smock frock. " a shape less carment , made f u 1 , with full sleeves , eathered in at the top and at the neck , and honeycombed with strons linen thread in a by no means inartistic fashion , by the poor woman of the agricultural districts. Soft dainty , ma'erials , pretty sh idings an'd con trasts of color and a more decoratine effect in the honeycombing at the throat and upon the top of the sleeves , transformed this one despised garment into a picturesque frock , the soft folds of a fine wool or silken sash adding the effect of drapery to the straight , simple folds of the skirt At ten and twelve a girl has no shape , and the awkwardness of a waist which measures more inches than ths width around the shoulders is made painfully con spicuous by a fitted frock or elaborate cos- tames ; the gatherel "smock frock , " on the contrary , gives her ease and displays the grace of free , untrammelled movement , while it is realily ail ipted to her increasing growth A conventionalized costume adapted from the Russian for a girl of twelve is effective , bnt requires a rather slend r and naturjny graceful ficure. It is made of silk andet , gold and wine color , red aud black , or a pce- lul sha lc of blue with dark green. The un- der.lress of t e bright sliH < Je In silk , the bands of the same , covered with diamonds , in nar row black , dark green or blue colored vi'lvet. The tunic is of plain velvet in the dark shade. Tnese sketc ies mav suggest to young girls the use of a study of form as it relates * www v& * uuj v * * > * * , * * o * w * i4ii o to the practical work of provid ng covering for it $ and not only the economy but the opporlunitj for the ixe-cise and development of ait'stic taste in becoming the'rown d-cssmakers. Oue of the most valuable idea ? to be derived from tbe study of art and from the dress ot the as- thetic school is the folly and impropr.'etv of supe fluous ornament of trimmin thatha > no purpose and no relation to the article it I ; intendel to adorn. ThU one idea well im pressed upon the minds of our younsr women would mor.ilize their dress and exercise a ben eficial Influence upon oar entire soc al and domestic life. JB ISIE JUXE.