sns KISSED
Slio kissed nie , my beautiful darling ,
I drank the delight of licr lirs ;
Tlie universe incited together ,
Mortality btood in oclijjse. *
A spirit of light stood before me ,
I heard a far rustle of wings ;
The kinss of the earth were as beggars ,
And the beggars of car6h were as kings
RICHARD REALF.
MUTEST AM ) MUPJ
Man's Extremity AmidVind and Wave
American Hural Home.
We were becalmed in mid-Pacific
The sails swelled no more than if they
had been molten sheets in the tropical
sunshine. Yet there was something
strange about thesea.for it was rough
We had been making good time the
day before and I concluded we must
have come into a region over which
some storm had passed. It was the
dry season , too , and I could not ac
count for it. But a man finds a good
many things on the high seas that he
can't readily account for , however
scientific he may pretend to land-lub
bers to be.
When a man loves the sea , the deck
of a ship is more to him than a palace ,
and the salt air and the heaving waves ,
life itself. But there are times when
he would give something to have the
solid earth to step upon , not in a
storm , there he stands to his colors
and trusts in Him who can say to the
waves : "Peace , be still. " But there
are uglier things at sea than storms ,
things that rise up out of a seeming
calm. These compared , with storms
seem to me like the Atlantic and the
Pacific Oceans one stormy and fierce ,
the other tranquil for days together ,
but with a terrible element brewing in
this stillnes.
There was on the deck of my good
ship , "Vestigia , " an atmosphere more
oppressive than the tropic heat with
the storm brooding in its heart. Like
every sailor , I had faced the thought
of shipwreck. But this dreadful/in
visible something hanging over me
was different , was a horror undreamed
of , unendurable. Yet how could I
tell that the dread of danger to my
wife and baby boy who were with me
. had not conjured up a phantasy ?
I tried vainly to tell myself that
there was really nothing ; there was
something , intangible , shapeless , horri
ble , palpable at least tothosefine per
ceptions which transcend the senses
and often forerun them. I had not an
enemy in the world , yes , possibly one ,
. butifsoa , man whom I had never seen ,
though I had cut sharply across his
plans and purposes without being re
sponsible. He was the nephew of my
mother's uncle , his wife's nephew. He
had been brought up with the old gen
tleman and expected to inherit the
greater part of his property. But my
uncle had left it all to me. Pierce Ar-
mitage trusted too much to the fact
that my uncle disliked my father. Ar-
mitage was wild and lawless and when
the money came to me , I was glad to
be out of reach of his vindictiveness.
I would have righted him if he had been
dealt with unfairly , but he had been
repeatedly warned by my uncle. What
was this old story , however , to me in
mid-Pacific ? Yefc , for all my endeav
ors , the shadow grew nearer.
One day as I sat on deck with my
wife under an awning , she whispered
to me suddenly :
"I don't like that man. " I looked
up. The first mate was going by. All
in an instant my dread took form.
This mate , Griggs , had been in the
"Vestigia" when I was transferred to
command of her. My own mate had
been promoted , and Griggs was highly
recommended by the ship's owners ,
but , as the saying is , I had never
"cottoned" to him. I had struggled
ayainsfc my prejudice , now I under
stood it. As I sat there something
happened to confirm my dread. My
little boy in his play ran across
Griggs' path. The mate swerved
aside and passed on , and then I saw
him cast at the child a look so ven
omous that it was with great difficulty
I restrained from snatching up my
boy in my arms.
At last I was awaks , and I saw that
1 should not have had instincts , or
that they should havo guided me
sooner. It was too late. Some of the
men had sailed in the "Vestigia" be
fore , others were of Griggs' own choos
ing. They were a motley crew , Irish ,
Swedes , Italians chiefly , good sailors ,
but men I did not trust , scarcely a
Yankee among them. Of late tliey
had obeyed me sulkily , and now that
my eyes were opened , I recollected
how much Griggs had gone among
them on some plea , had flattered one ,
had relieved another from some oner
ous , task , done a favor to a third , and
so on. I recalled significent looks
nnd whispers , and 1 saw that the
crew were in the hands of my first
mate , and that he meant mischief. I
looked at Mary and my boy. To
whom could I turn ? I glanced at the
second mate , but just then I saw
Griggs in passing him thrust a bit of
paper into his hand , and a few minutes
after I saw this second mate as he
stood talking to the man at the wheel
give the paper a toss from him into
the sea. Instead , it fell against the
railing of the ship and caught there
uncertainly.
I began with my boy a game of ball
such as we often played on shipboard ,
when the unexpected directions of the
ball were a great amusenient to the
child. To-day after taking different
directions , I suddenly rolled the ball
close to the paper , and told him in a
low tone to bring both balls , the paper
nnd the rubber one. He obeyed ,
laughing , and I read secretly :
"When the watch changes. Have
tho men armed and ready. Better dis
patch Keefe with the captain , he will
in.ako trouble. I'll look after the wom
en and thtt boy. "
I had , then , an hour oflife , and he
would look .after my wife and boy.
tie ! I looked at them. I would fight
to tho last. With a silent prayar I
sent for Keefe in my cabin. ti a few
moments we stood looking into one
another's faces like doomed men.
"Is there nobody among them all
wetcan trust ? ' ' I asked.
"Not infernal rascal " he
an , answer
ed. "But one thing , Captain , we'd
better begin. "
He was right , for then we should die
like jnen instead of rats. I armed
Keefe to the teeth.
"Let them see you leave , " I said.
"Then come back here and conceal
yourself. "
I wrote some letters , took a packet
from my strong-box , went upon deck
again , gave the packet to my wife , and
drawing her toward me , kissed her
passionately.
"Keep life and courage for our boy's
sake , whatever comes , " I said , and
took my baby in my arms ; his soft
grasp nerved me like the touch of steel.
I looked about me like one who looks
his last. Still the same calm and the
same unaccountable movement of
the water , only that it seemed to have
increased. I went below , and on some
pretense sent for Griggs. He came ,
but at the first glance at my face , drew
back. Too late. The door was double
locked , and my pistol at his temple.
"Mutiny andmurder , " I said to him.
"How long do you deserve to live ?
What is it for ? "
He answered me by a name : "Pierce
Armitage. " Then , appeal would be
useless. "Shoot ! " he said defiantly.
"I shall be avenged. I've breathed
hell into your crew. Heaven itself
can't save you. "
I shuddered ! "Whatever comes , I
deny your blasphemy. " I said. At a
signal Keefe sprang out. Griggs , or
Armitage , was ironed , gagged , and laid
upon the cabin floor. Then , double
locking the cabin door behind us , we
went upon the deck. There I called
the crew together.
'My men , " I said , "what fault have
you to find with your captain ? "
They looked at me , and at one
another.
"We have spoken none , " answered
an Italian in his soft broken English.
"Not to me , " I answered , "but
worse than that , amonz yourselves
and to my mate. You should have
come to mo with your grievances. I
am here now to remedy them if you
will tell me what they arc. How is it
with you , Gustave Doneldorf ? " I ask-
ed.a stalwart Swede , whom a mo
ment before 1 had seen " on
my lefb hand , ho had disap
peared , and another boon companion
with him. I was startled. But the
keys of my cabin were safe in my pock
et and I went on talking to the men ,
hoping to pass the fatal hour and to
gain at least some adherents. Some
of the men listened to me , but all were
evidently in expectation of the leader ,
who could not come. I saw and heard
every thing , and noticed that the waves
were higher. I talked on , and the men
stood more in bewilderment than at
tention. "What was to have been my
death hour was beginning to go by ,
and no blow had been struck. In spite
of loAverinqglaneesIhadbeguntohope ,
when suddenly I saw Gustave Donel
dorf and his companion in theirplaces
again , and in another moment there
sounded rushing footsteps , and Armi
tage sprang upon deck , pistol in hand
rushed up to the sailors , and began in
English and snatches of their own
tongue to berate them for cowardice.
Why he did not kill me instantly , I
can't tell ; perhaps he meant to feed
ne first with horror , being sure of me ,
! or the men responded to him like a
trigger to the hands that pulls it. My
boy ran to me.
"Shoot the brat first , " shouted
Armitage. I took aim at him and
ired , but my ball went wide its mark.
Tor the ship at the instant rose upon
a great wave , and as she plunged
downward there was a cry from many
throats. I turned. A mountain of
vater was upon us.
"Ileef sail ! Downhatches ! " Ishout-
ed , as at a look from me Keefe
snatched my wife and child toward
he cabin. In the common danger the
mutineers forgot themselves in being
ailors , and asiflifehung on my words ,
my orders were executed with magic
peed. It was none too soon. The
cabin door was barely closed when
; he frightful wave was upon us. We
lirew ourselves upon the deck , faces
lownward , and hands grasping at
vhatever gave any promise 'of hold-
ng firm. All but Griags , who thrust
one arm through a coil of rope about
; he mast , and stood , pistol in hand ,
eady for fatal aim at me'should there
De an instant of stillness. He had re-
olved that in any case I should not
escape him. Our last glance showed
his before the ship Seemed to rise
erect upon her "stern , to poise herself
u mid-air , and to plunge down un-
athomable depths. A raging cataract
swept over us , it roared in our ears ,
drenched and deafened us , beat us
against the deck , and almost swept
us from the supports to which we
clung. The vessel shook like a leaf in
the whirlwind , staggered and plunged
until I thought she was going straight
; o the bottom. Then as the deluge
rolled off from the deck and we sprang
; o our feet , I saw an awe-struck look
on the faces of the sailors , and follow-
ng their glances , perceived that Arm-
tage's place was vacant.
Had Heaven interfered in my behalf ?
low could I dare to say so ? All that
' . can affirm is that at the moment of
my extremity a tidal wave on its way
across the ocean had swept my first
niate into the sea. The sailors , how
ever , had no doubt. To their super-
stiti ons Heavenhad fought for me , and
they respected me accordingly.
"It is a strange story , " said the cap
tain as he finished , "but if you want
something rational and probablejust
get somebody to make it up for you. "
The Severn tunnel in England , four
miles and a half long , has just been
opened. The distance was made by
ive carriages in IS minutes. It can
scarcely bewailed one of the great tun
nels. These are Mount Cenis , other
wise Frejus , about eight miles long ,
which took fourteen years to make ;
5t. Gothard , nine miles long , which
took eight years to make ; and the re
cently finished ( September , 1884) ) Arl-
mrg , about six miles long , which took
only two years to make.
T Another Sermon.
Tbo Salvation Army has been Hold
ing forth in Aurora for flio past week ,
more or loss , as tbo case may be. It
is not definitely settled how many
.souls tho army has thus farsn.atcheil ;
irom tbe burning , but it is certain ibat
their emotional stylo of presenting1 tbo
causo has incited somo of the hearers
to got up and paw tho air , and , act as
though they had been eating green
fruit.
fruit.We
We do not wish to cast any reflec
tion on religion , but we do not think
this vehement kind , is double souled ,
and with a row of nails on the'out
side of tho hool. That is , wo do not
think it wears well. The kind of con
version that is tho result of sober re
flection and reasoning is that which all
can respect and approve of. And
those who experience it by a process
of logical thought will stick , and set
'
examples tbat will do good to the'
cause . People of this kind are those
who help to build up tho churches ,
aud who show that religion can enter
their every day life and prove service
able. That is tho kind of a Christian
we wish to be.
Wo know wo are a sinner of no
moan dimensions , but we cannot be
converted by the exclamatory utter
ances of a gang of young girls and
"Hip" boys , who sing bad rhymes sot
to plantation melodies , and who stand
up'beforo those who are looking for
tho light and make tho cause appear
ridiculous.
Of course , this kind of a thing takes
with some. Old man What's-his-
namo and Sister So-and-so , who aro ,
always on tho front seat when thoro is
a chance .to take a hand m anything'
of an emotional character , wiirgotup
and prance about , , and shout at the ,
top of their lungs. But they cool
down as soon as the meetings are
over , and forgot all about them. They
are no better for their rantings. It is
not religion they have. They get too
much stoam in their boilers , and such
affairs give them a chance to blow off.
We can remember the old-fashioned
revivals we used to havo in the little ;
ciiurch way down East. Every win
ter somo sensational exhortcr would
appear and tho town would turn out ,
and whoop and howl , and be saved.
Bill Johnson and Tom Copp , Sarah
Jones and Kate Ketohum , and all tho
rest of them , would ro forward and
kneel at the bench. They would near
ly scare the life out of tho children by
their contortions and wild hoots.
They thought they wore saved , and
the whole "town rejoiced. After tho
mooting was through , and the smell of
brimstone was cleared aws } ' , Bill
Johnson anil Tom Copp continued to
hang about tho bar-room , and swear
and lijjht as of yore , and Sarah Jones
aud Kato Ketchum went to dances ,
and made food for talk at the quilting
bees , and all the rest of the converted
proceeded to bacic-stlide , wihout put
ting on any brakes , or improving spir
itually.
The intention of tho Salvation Army-
is , of course , gotxl and proper , but
tho kind of religious intoxication
which they deal out dissipates tho
subject , aud loaves him with a swol
len head and red 03 cs , and tho con
viction that ho has boon living on a
wind pudding that has not nourished
his soul or improved his ways.
If 3ron feel that you arc a sinner , and
want to become a genuine Christian ,
go and listen to reason aud sound ar
'
gument ; improve in your onc-of-
church , week-day life ; do not do these
little wrong and dishonest things ,
which passion and avarice may dio- '
tatc ; bo charitable , honest and hu
mane ; join the ranks of those who : ip- ,
pear to havo an earnest and enduring'
purpose for good ; believe what 3'our
reason will assist you in believing ; try
to point out the fight way to others ,
and you will roach salvation by as
sure a route as that denoted by the
Salvation Army. You may bo a tritle
"
longer on tbo"way , but you will be
fully as sure to got thci'o. You will
also ieel that you have worked your ,
passage , instead of trying io bluil
3Tour way with a w.ind solo , Aurora
John Henry iu Disgrace.
"You , John Henry , " said a ILilstod
street woman to her belated spouse ,
'where have you been , and what have
voti been doing ? "
" ' . "
"BoRti bavin' time.
"Been having a time ! Didn't you
cuo\v that I wat > hero alone ? What's
to prevent btirirlars from breaking in
to tho bouse anil carrying off ovory-
hiug we've got , and not a man on the
) remises ? Been having a time , eh ?
You'll have another time right hero if
rott don't take to getting homo ear-
ier. Now you go around aud sec if
the bouse is properly locked up , and
don't bo all ni ht where are you go
ng , John Henry ? "
"Goin' to lock up housb up. m'
dear. "
"Don't you leavq this room , John
ilenryHow do I know but there's a
jurglar under tbis bed right now ? If
vou wouldn't bo carousing around at all
lours of tbe night and cominsr home
drunk you might have these matters
attended to before now. Wbat are
rou standing there for ? Why don't
"
rou go and see if tbo house is"locked
up ? "
" 1 can't be in two plaishes at onsb ,
m' dear. If theresb burglar under
) ed no ushn to lock liousli. It housb
ocked no usbe fur burglar under bed.
Shoe ? "
"That's just like a drunken idiot.
Jook under the bed first , and tbcu at-
; end to the rest of the bouse. "
John Henry crawled under tho boil
and found a cat , which , be caught * by
, bo posterior elongation , or words to
tbat eflect. To this tbe cat set up : i
demurrer , and proceeded to show
causo why tbo same should bo sus-
ainerl , which so frightened Mrs. John
Ilenry that she sprang out of bod just
is Jolm Henry backed out from under
t , anil in bis effort to rise be threw her
igainst tbe wasb stand , upsetting it
anil smashing tno pitcher. She
screamed , ho swore and tho cat
squalled , and now tbo neighbors say
bat John Henry ought to bo put in
ail for tbe manner invliich bo abuses
lis wife , and her a timid little tbing ,
; oo. GoodalVs Daily Sun.
A Nevada rancher snnrcd two hundred
rabits in ten dnys without sensibly dlmluish-
ithe hordes that ravage his farm.
A STUDY HT COSTUMES ,
Jennie June Expresses Her
Opinion About Modern
"Fashion"
And Gives Some Ideas of Art
as Applied to Dress.
The Oashmere , Greek , Ancient Greek and
Graduate Costumes as Applied
to the Art of Dressing To-day.
Special Correspondence.
NETT Tons , November 1L
The faults in dress and the absence of that
freedom and diversity necessary to the develop
ment and cultivation of taste seem to arise
principally from the acceptance by women of
incompetent authorities and the failure to
apply to dress the sense and Intelligence
usually brought to bear on other subjects. It
has become a sort of axiom tiat deviation
from "fashion" whatever that may happen
at the moment to be must be ugly and un
becoming , and beautiful dress , like healthful
food , wholesome perhaps , but not in the least
agreeable. It does not seem to strike the de
vout worshipper of "novelties" and "latest
ideas" that increased change cannot always
be in the right direction , or that the "style , "
which merely represents the trick of the mo
ment , can have no necessary or true relation
to personal elegance and good taste. Both
the merits and defects of our mode of dressing
are more conspicuous in this country than in
others , because the lollowera of fashion are
more numerous , more money to spend upon
dress , and the distribution of prevailing ideas
more general. It is not means or resources
that are lacking , simply knowledge of princ.-
ples , and this Is an acquisition which takes
time and implies an education in art. Ignor
ance of truth in regard to dress is asblisstul
as in respect to other things. While a woman
is declared to be "exquisitely" dressed who
wears a hcterogenous assortment of colors
and "unrelated" forms , ihat woman will be
satisfied witn herself and her methods. Forms
heretofore had nothing to do witli fashion.
The increase and decrease of artificial humps
and excrescences the shoitenlug and length
ening of skirts , sleeves and bodices the
drawing in or inflation , have all been con
ducted on purely arbitrary principles without
any reference to truth in art or nature. The
imbecility of it all. looked at from an abstract
point of view , is more tlian funny , it is pitia
ble. Why a woman sensib'e on all other
points should ask anxiously if she must wear
a "bustle" or do any oilier one of the dozen
things that f.ishi > n o'dains to day that it did
not ordain yesterday , would be mcred We if it
were not common. The false standard set up
leads emy one astrny. If u gown is in the
reigning mode it is "stylish , " if it is of costlv
material it is "beautiful" or "elegant , " and
the wearer is "magnificently" dressed , not
common. But thenTis hope for the future.
American women are teginning to study
form , and when they have once discovered the
secret of true beautv and grace they will be
quick to apply it. Heretofore , HUe arithmetic
learned at school , they did not think of apply
ing art to everyday life , but even lessons are
taking jrait'cal shapes and the latest studio
Idea , tliat of the "cosiumecljss , " will perhaj'B '
suggest the Jine npon which improvement
must begin that of nature , not caricature.
CASHMERE COSTUME.
Here is a study of a walking costume In cash-
men ; which is very simple , \ et very charming ,
almost perfect in its grace of outline and free
dom from all co ivent onal restraints such as
pads , tie-backs , steel bars ami other eucum-
branics. It is a copv of one of Liberty's wn-
lcr-col ( r'designs , and is made in two shades of
Umritza cashmere , or any other soft , self-col
ored all wool material. Brown and ecru two
shades of gr.iy , currant red und dark gn-en or
garnet and fawn go well together. The red in
tither case , the drown and the darker of the
ur.iys l-eimr used for ihe skirt , which should
be laid in fine knife plaits. The overdress is
smock-shaped , but rather narrow , ths f ulncss ,
what there is of it , which is only just enouzh
for ease over the enlarged portion of the body ,
being gathered into the honey-combed shirring
at the throat , and more slightly pulled in at
the waist , under the soft sash , which holds it
without any gathering string and admits of its
being drawn up to the Je t side , where it opens
nnd falls in a series of draped folds. The on
ly shaping is under the arms. The armholes
are Jelt nearly straight , so that the arms move
With case and freedom and give abundant
space to the sleeves , which ar a modification
of the -leg-of-mutton" and may be tacked
here and there to an inner lining or to tapes
attached to the inside of the lower part of the
arm and to the top of the boulder. The shap
ing of the lower part of the sleeve can be seen
bv the position of the left arm , which is turn-
ei so that the hand touches the bodice.
The hat matches exactly the upper part of
the dress , the bunch of feathers the tint of
the skirt
GBEEE COSTUMB.
This costume Is tho adaption made from
the pure Greek dress bv Mrs. Emily PfTclfe ,
the author of the "Lady of the Rock , " "Fly
ing Leaves , " &c. , nnd a well known figure in
London literary and artistic society. The pe
culiar and very graceful style of costume she
has adapted to all her needs , and some years
ago illustrated in a series of articles in a Lon
don periodical. Last year Mrs. Pffeifcr with
her husband , also and author and a musician
of abllitv , though an ameteur , visited this
country , " and many will recall the tall , grace
ful flgura in its lovely drapery of white and
cold or pale yellow with embroidery of
Pompeian red , or the quieter olives wrought
in leaf tints , which characterized her everyday
attire. There was nothing so absolutely differ
ent in this dresss as to attract attention ; It
was only conspicuous from its soft flowing
lines and the absence of the usual humps and
high contrasts.
Theunderdress of this costume is an abso
lutely plain , straight morning gown , which
may have an upright tucked bodice ( the tucks
very fine ) if the wearer is thin , but is other
wise ehaped under tho arm and gathered into
the belt , or it may be cut all in one and a belt
arranged simply to mark the line of the waist.
The drapery needs no cutting , it may be ar
ranged irom a shawl or s. square of any soft ,
double-width material , nun's veiling , "cheese
cloth , fine wool , silk or lace. The embroidery
is easily and quickly done in outline stitch in
one or two colors or two shades ofth'e same
color , but it is better to use only one color ,
unless two colors or two shades can be so
judiciously used as toproJuce a good result ,
and this can be attained by knowledge and ex
perience only not by direction through a med
ium so liable to misconstruction as words. It
should be understood from the beg'nuiug th t
all colors used in art costumes are soft nnd
possess depth rather than surface color , so
that thev adapt themselves readily one to an
other. The original of the Greek dress .was
made In Tussore silk , in its well known deli
cate ecru or stone-colored tint ; and the em
broidery In flame color , which has a lambent
quality , not in the least like the brick red ,
which Is often called by its name. The corners
of the drapery are united together on the
shoulders with clasps of Inwrought stone , or
metal , and the rustlings are of the silk , feath
ered upon the edge , or of embroidered lace.
ANCIENT GREEK COSTUME
The design from the ancient Greek , it will
be seen , is a modification and combination of
of the other two , with features of its own that
are different from either. The foundation
dress is very much the same as in Mrs. PfTe 1-
er's Greek gown , except that being made in
print and for ordinary use the sleeves are cut
to the wrist. The overdress is hollouel a
little at the neck , front and back , but other
wise slathered in at the w.iist ( only with more
fulness ) exactly like the "Cashmere Costume"
excepting that the drapery is lifted some
what to the right of the opening and held by
the clasp at the belt. The body part is a'so
cut in more to the arm , the sleeves being less
full and requiring less space. The material of
the overdress is what is known in London aa
Arabian cotton. It has a natura ly crinkled
or crepy surfacs , irregularly ridged and falling
in very close and graceful folds. It was used
by Miss Anderson Jorher Galatea dress , de
signed by a London artist , and j-rored more
amenable to artistic riquiruments than the
China crepe at § 10 per yard which she Had
previously employed flit ; skirt of the under-
dress may be gathered or pl-atcd , ( understand
pleated not plaited ) , for plait was formerly
only used in the sense of braiding or weaving
together , and Is not properly applied to
straight folds ; but gathering in more suitable
for figured prints , such as that of which this
skirt'is nude , as .t does not conceal any part
ol the pattern and is more easily laundrfeu.
These costumes are all that would be called
esthetic , yet they are beautiful , graceful , sim
ple , convenient , and easily adapted to different
uses. They are also , especially the cashmere
costume , so nearly likr > the modes of to-day
that with proper treatment , they could be worn
as they are , and have been , without exciting
unusual attention. But one of the reasons
why this can be done is because conventional
fashion , while sneering , reviling ana ridiculing
the aesthetic idea , has stolen its thunder and
incorporated itin , fragments and without unity ,
into its changing and capric ous repertoire of
the modes. It has done this in self-defence and
because it w.is demanded. Ideas are scarce in
a conventional atmosphere , and the aesthetics
had an idea to begin with several of them
and they dressed themselves to the taste and
common sense of thinking , intelligent women.
The extravagances of unt.iinkingaud senseless
followers who endeavor to grain notoriety by
exaggeration undoubtedly disgusted them , but
underlying all this they could not but discover
an adaptability to lovely forms and simple ma
terials , which wa < better than mere cost , so
Ions the test of taste and elegance , and a sin
cerity which is an essential element of morality
In dress as well as in the qualities of mind and
heart. Thus , whatever may be said of it , it
will be found eventually that the so-c.dleJ
aesthetic element Is the truest and most im
portant contribution made to the ethics of
dress in this generation , and the one that will
exercise the most decisive influence upon the
future.
PRINCESS OF WALES IX CAP AXD GOWX.
The eagerness with which a new idea is
seized if it comes from an authorltive source 13
seen In the effort to utilize this sensation
created by the appearance of the Princess ol
Wales in the dress of the uraduates upon
whom a degree is conferred at the College ol
Music in Dublin. Upon the occasion of tha
visit of her Royal Highness In honorary de
gree was conferred upon her and she was form
ally invested In the cap and gown , whici
> 5l
_ _ _ _
proved very becoming , for though no longer " >
very young and strikingly bcautliul , she pos- - *
sesscsses aa interesting and expressive face , - *
which retains its charms and even gains some- * * -
thing with increasing age Irom tbe exercise of - g ,
. a lovely disposition. * ;
The gown and cap aro practically th-5 same t-/
as those worn at Oxford , and the formal In- - V
vestment of the Princess of Wales , her will
ingness to wear the costume as a sign of her
fellowship with the body , settled lorever the
mooted question of propriety , so far as women
graduates a'e concerned , and made theLcap and
gown the badge of student graduatdawithout
reference to sex. t'
The gown that is usually worn Is Slack. In
this instance it was of red satin damask , linejl , }
with satin and faced with velvet. Above the *
straight high collar are three folds of soft
crepe de chine and the pin Is a diamond lyre
w tb fine , twisted gold strings. The cap is
"mortar-board " and has *
commonly called the - ,
been the subject of campoons Innumerable , ;
but It Is suddenly discovered to be very strikv
Ing and plcturesiue , nnd English milliners are.
employing it or a modification of it extensive
ly for misses and lit le girls. The "gown" Is
in effect the "surplice" of the Church of Eng
land. Its feature Is the high-set , rather full
flowing sleeve the top of wbleh almost joins
the collar and the seam of which Is on the
outside , where it I * made slightly full as weir
as wide and flowing instead of under the arms.
The rest of it is simply a long , straight sacquo
shaped under the arms , on the shoulder * , and
with a gathering or Wutteau pleat in the bick ,
wh'ch flows out"from the figure and it is noc
fastened down. A word here may not be out
of place in regard to tho adoption ot the En
glish word "gown , " instead ot "diess , " as
commonly used iu this country. Like much
other adopted phraseology , it is both well-used
and miss-used. It Is a great mistake to sup
pose that ills used by all of those , who do use
It "simplv because it i English , don't you
knowl" It has the positive merit of correct
ness aud good usaue to justify it. Whan a
"dress" is made all In one piece from neck to
feet it is a "gown ; " formerly , when cut at the
waist , it was a "frock. " It Is wrestling dress
from Its original meaning , which was generic
and inclusive , to limit it to the upper garment
which completes a woman's dress. The mod
ern dress vocabulary < ontains French words
which have become naturalized. "Why not
"English , " wh ch is our mother tongue ! We
use costume and toilet without a sneer and
without ref'-rring to when ; they cam from.
Why not gown , which is needed to designate
the long garment for which we have no name
except the Incorrect aud inexpressive one of
dress1
It would be a real advantage to the public ,
indsave much con'us'um as well as eternal it-
jralion and explanations , If the proper word
louldbe appied to the thing in woman's
dress as in garments worn by men for ex
ample. We tcok tha word toVette ( twi-let )
from the French , and now we ca'.l it indiscrim
inately , toilette , or toilet. . This hiit word is
not proper'y qmployed , it is forced from its
correct usaac when it is made to mean only a
pirt of itself. A French-woman will speak of
nnkingher toilet for the evening , but she uses
the word in its generic sense , her toili-tte ,
forming part of her toilet ; and so well is this
understood outside of fashions and fashion
n-ritiug that the article of furniture in a lady's
dressing room which contains the toilet acces
sories and appurtenances is known as the
"to let" table or "toilet" bureau. It is getting
to be pretty well understood now that 'ccos-
tume" means all the outside parts of a walking
Dntfit composed of a combina IDU of materials ;
ivhile a "suit" me.ins the same composed .of
one material. Suit and costume arc more or
less "complete" as they are made to Include
jacket , bonnet , muff or the r tiquivalents.
Children are much more naturally , as well
as more beautifully , dressed now than of late
years , or any time since they were mnde the
copies in miniature of the follies of their eld-
srs. This change we owe partly to the wider
distribution of knowledge ot physiological1
'
law , partly to the advance all alonjj fhe line'
of practical ethics , and partly to the modern
art and aesthetic clement as applied to the
dress of chi dren as well as women. A cos-
r
GIRLS COSTC3IE.
tume in two shades , or ttvo colors , of casb-
mere for a girl is copied from one of Libertv's
designs , and is ad.ipteil to a girl of from four
teen to sixteen that difficult age to deal with ,
when girls approach the woman without
havme parted from the child. The design
consist of a square-cut , sleeveless turiicshaped
in to the want and drawn up to the left side
in natural folds over the skirt of the frocJc ,
which may be plain , tucked , or trimmd with
rows of velvet. The shirring at the throat
and upon the sleeves is done in honeycomb
pattern , with Kensington wool , in Kensington
stitch , or the ordinary shirring may be over
laid with herring bone stitch in woot , in a
different shade , or a contrasting coor. In this
case the design may be rendered more com
plete by trimming the skirt with five rows of
velvet , spaced between , and put on with her
ring bone stitch in wool upon the upper and
lower edges. For younger gir.s , say of ten
and twelve vears , an adaptation has been
made of the carters' "smock frock. " a shape
less carment , made f u 1 , with full sleeves ,
eathered in at the top and at the neck , and
honeycombed with strons linen thread in a by
no means inartistic fashion , by the poor
woman of the agricultural districts. Soft
dainty , ma'erials , pretty sh idings an'd con
trasts of color and a more decoratine effect
in the honeycombing at the throat and upon
the top of the sleeves , transformed this one
despised garment into a picturesque frock , the
soft folds of a fine wool or silken sash adding
the effect of drapery to the straight , simple
folds of the skirt At ten and twelve a girl
has no shape , and the awkwardness of a waist
which measures more inches than ths width
around the shoulders is made painfully con
spicuous by a fitted frock or elaborate cos-
tames ; the gatherel "smock frock , " on the
contrary , gives her ease and displays the
grace of free , untrammelled movement , while
it is realily ail ipted to her increasing growth
A conventionalized costume adapted from
the Russian for a girl of twelve is effective ,
bnt requires a rather slend r and naturjny
graceful ficure. It is made of silk andet ,
gold and wine color , red aud black , or a pce-
lul sha lc of blue with dark green. The un-
der.lress of t e bright sliH < Je In silk , the bands
of the same , covered with diamonds , in nar
row black , dark green or blue colored vi'lvet.
The tunic is of plain velvet in the dark shade.
Tnese sketc ies mav suggest to young girls
the use of a study of form as it relates
* www v& * uuj v * * > * * , * * o * w * i4ii o to the
practical work of provid ng covering for it $
and not only the economy but the opporlunitj
for the ixe-cise and development of ait'stic
taste in becoming the'rown d-cssmakers. Oue
of the most valuable idea ? to be derived from
tbe study of art and from the dress ot the as-
thetic school is the folly and impropr.'etv of
supe fluous ornament of trimmin thatha >
no purpose and no relation to the article it I ;
intendel to adorn. ThU one idea well im
pressed upon the minds of our younsr women
would mor.ilize their dress and exercise a ben
eficial Influence upon oar entire soc al and
domestic life. JB ISIE JUXE.
